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SIAM 


OR, 


THE  HEART  OE  EARTHER  INDIA. 


BY 


MARY  LOVINA  CORT, 


A Resident  «/  Siam. 


NEW  YORK: 

ANSON  D.  F.  RANDOLPH  & COMPANY. 

38  WEST  TWENTY-THIRD  STREET, 


COPYRIGHT,  1886,  BY 

Anson  D.  F.  Randolph  & Company. 


Edward  O.  Jenions’  Sons, 
Printers  and  Stereotypers ^ 

20  North  William  St.,  New  York. 


TO 


CHULALANGKORN, 

Supreme  King  of  Siam^ 

THE  WISEST  AND  BEST  RULER  THIS  KINGDOM  HAS  EVER  KNOWN  ; 

THE  DEAD  MISSIONARIES, 

WHO  OPENED  THE  DOORS  OF  THIS  LAND  TO  THE  WORLD; 

THE  LIVING  MISSIONARIES, 

WHO  TOIL  IN  THE  PATIENCE  OF  HOPE; 

THE  MILLIONS  OF  SIAM, 

WAITING  TO  BE  UPLIFTED; 

HER  LITTLE  DARK-EYED  CHILDREN, 

AMONG  WHOM  I SPECIALLY  LOVE  TO  LABOR; 

THIS  SKETCH 

OF  THEIR  BEAUTIFUL  LAND,  IS, 

FROM  THE  HEART  OF  FARTHER  INDIA, 

Dcbicatcb 

BY  THEIR  FRIEND 

THE  AUTHOR. 


PREFACE. 


Hating  lived  since  1874  in  Siam,  the  writer  has  thought 
that  a new  volume  on  this  interesting  land  might  not  be 
unwelcome  to  the  intelligent  reader. 

Events  must  first  occur  before  they  can  be  chronicled. 
History  is  composed  of  the  accumulations  of  the  past,  and 
no  matter  at  what  date  we  appear  on  the  scene  there  is 
much  of  interest  that  we  can  only  know  through  the  writ- 
ten records  or  verbal  reports  of  our  predecessors. 

To  these  two  sources  I am  indebted  for  much  that  will 
appear  on  the  following  pages.  I therefore  acknowledge 
with  gratitude  my  obligations  to  all  who  have  consciously 
or  unconsciously  contributed  of  their  thoughts  or  words  to 
enrich  my  book. 

In  the  field  of  literature  every  new  book  must  make  its 
own  way.  It  cannot  go  in  the  beaten  paths  of  others. 
Hew  hands  will  handle  it,  and  new  eyes  and  hearts  will 
scan  its  pages  and  take  in  its  contents.  I hope,  therefore, 
along  with  what  I have  written  myself,  to  carry  a few  old 
truths  and  incidents  to  many  fresh  readers. 

All  I ask  for  my  book  is  that  it  be  read,  while  I trust  that 
through  its  perusal  this  hitherto  almost  unknown  land  may 
become  more  familiar  to  the  busy,  wide-awake  world  of 
to-day.  M.  L.  C. 

Petch^\^uree,  Siam. 

Since  writing  the  above  I have  come  home  to  America 
on  a brief  visit,  and  before  my  book  goes  to  press  I wish 

(V) 


vi 


PREFACE. 


to  add  tliat  the  last  chapter,  l^^ew  Siam,  has  been  finished 
since  my  return  and  I refer  the  reader  to  it  for  the  very 
latest  and  best  information. 

During  a late  visit  to  Washington,  I called  upon  the 
President.  In  the  course  of  our  conversation  he  remarked  : 
“ America  should  be  on  the  most  friendly  terms  with  Siam. 
When  you  see  the  king  again,  please  extend  to  him  my 
most  cordial  greetings.” 

It  is  indeed  true  that  Americans  have  ever  received 
from  the  present  sovereign,  and  his  illustrious  father  also, 
the  most  kindly  treatment,  and  it  is  in  consideration  of 
this,  and  because  of  my  boundless  hope  for  the  future  of 
both  king  and  kingdom,  that  I have  ventured  to  dedicate 
this  volume  to  His  Majesty  Chidalangkorn. 


Denver,  Col.,  1886. 


M.  L.  C. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAGB 

The  Start,  ...... 

1 

CHAPTER  II. 

On  to  Siam,  ...... 

. 5 

CHAPTER  HI. 

The  King’s  Realm,  .... 

14 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Products,  ...... 

. 22 

CHAPTER  V. 

Bangkok,  ..... 

29 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Peeps  into  Palaces,  ..... 

. 42 

CHAPTER  VH. 

Some  Kingly  Customs,  .... 

54 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Disposition  of  the  Dead*  .... 

. 64 

CHAPTER  IX. 

A Royal  Cremation,  .... 

72 

CHAPTER  X. 

The  Supreme  King  of  Siam, 

. 88 

(vii) 


vm 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XI.  PAGE 

Siamese  Language  and  Literature,  ...  98 

CHAPTER  XH. 

The  King’s  Birthday,  . . . . .108 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Siam’s  Religion,  ......  114 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Idols,  ........  131 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Monasteries  or  Wats,  . . . . .138 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

More  about  Wats,  ......  148 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Buddhist  Shrines,  ......  153 

CHAPTER  X\HII. 

The  Buddha  Footprint,  . . . . .162 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

\J  The  People  and  their  Houses,  . . . 166 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Holidays  in  Siam,  . . . . • -178 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Siamese  Times,  Seasons,  and  Customs,  . . 193 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Elephants,  . . • * • • • • 201 

CHAPTER  XXHI. 

The  Young  and  Old  Folks  of  Siam,  . . . 212 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 


Curious  Things, 


. 223 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


CHAPTER  XXV. 
SiA3i’s  Centennial  Exposition,  . 

• 

PAGB_ 

228 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Petchaburee,  ..... 

. 233 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
Walks  about  Petchaburee, 

• 

243 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
The  Royal  Cave,  Petchaburee, 

• 

. 255 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
Drinking  the  Water  op  Allegiance, 

2C0 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

The  Temple  of  the  Sleeping  Idol, 

• 

. 205 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 
Lotus-Liues,  .... 

, 

209 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 
Christian  Missions  in  Siam,  . 

. 

. 280 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 
The  Church  in  Siam, 

* 

294 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Our  Schools  in  Siam,  .... 

. 

. 301 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 
Medical  JIissions,  .... 

• 

314 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 
Life  on  the  Compound, 

. 

. 323 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 
The  Press,  ..... 

332 

X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXXVm. 

Laos,  the  North-Lai«t),  . . . . .337 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

The  Captr^e  Laos  in  Siam,  . . . .355 

CHAPTER  XL. 

Seetone  and  his  Angel-Bride,  Monora— A Laos  Le- 
gend, . ' . . . . . . 370 

CHAPTER  XU. 

Buddha’s  Crystal  Tooth,  ....  373 

CHAPTER  XLIT. 

New  Siam,  .......  378 


Appendix, 


385 


3xniao 


U;iiidaln/ir 


7tooi«^ 

•Tltm.UTAUY  To"^T>TH3 


Vitnu^  Xi 


')pi  piii  ig  KI L i \vi  tg 


'■S(Am:xKi- 


|f.iu»]>uon  I 


Lt'i 


/i^'isanoolok 


rManorora 


Xhaiuat 


iboorcr 


Bums  of 

i\ngkf»p 

^tenlIiap 


ih:ibm-op 


limiLuboon 


1,  O ^VK 


<Ml't 


I}r'-iijni‘il  Ay 

MsnonA  Cheek.  MD  of  Cheung  Mat 

FOR  ,, 

SIAM  AM)  LAOS 

P/r.  \iir/<ruw/iw  //  i>t  / )iN/oiltt>ii 

30 1 too  2o6Uilcs 


TVieii  Teorhnrd'  \ Son.Hc.li* 


SIAM. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  STAET. 

StAM  is  not  an  old  land,  renowned  in  song  and  story. 
Indeed  it  is  so  new,  has  so  lately  come  within  the  ken  of 
western  nations,  that  very  few  books  in  Eui'opean  languages 
have  been  written  about  it.  Perhaps,  all  told,  they  would 
not  number  a score. 

The  native  records  are  so  legendary,  so  fnll  of  palpable 
falsehoods,  that  even  the  grains  of  truth,  mixed  with  stones 
and  sand,  and  which  have  been  washed  down  the  stream 
of  time  from  the  past,  must  be  sifted  and  rubbed  and  pol- 
ished before  the  pure  gold  of  their  worth  appears. 

I shall  not,  therefore,  attempt  a history  of  this  tropical 
land  that  smiles  in  the  sunshine  of  a perpetual  summer, 
nor  shall  I carry  you  back  into  the  dim  past  and  try  to  trace 
for  you  the  succession  of  kings  who  have  lived  and  reigned 
and  died  in  the  centuries  that  are  gone  forever. 

No,  I have  no  time  for  that ; neither  would  you  have  leis- 
ure to  read  so  much  at  the  threshold  while  I am  beckoning: 
you  to  follow  through  the  open  door  into  the  Siam  of  to-day. 

There  were  many  dear  friends  who  bade  me  a tearful 
farewell  wdien  I left  my  home  in  Colorado  that  pleasant 
evening  in  July  of  1874,  and  started  on  my  long  journey  to 
Asia.  But  there  were  few  to  bid  me  “ God-speed,”  because 
they  thought  I ought  to  stay  at  home  and  labor  among  the 
“ heathen  at  the  door.”  I think  some  one  is  tempted  to 
say  this  to  nearly  every  man  or  woman  who  sails  on  a mis- 
sion to  a distant  shore.  I told  them  they  might  aU  be  home 


2 


SIAM. 


missionaries,  but  that  I was  willing  to  go  and  labor  among 
the  foreign  lieatben  to  whom  they  would  not  be  sent. 

I have  found  nothing  but  God’s  disappointments  in  all 
my  Siam  experiences,  and  they  are  always  better  than  our 
fears,  and  in  the  end  prove  to  be  full  of  blessing.  God  has 
always  taken  care  of  me  and  given  me  ever  so  many  things 
to  be  glad  for,  and  He  helps  me  to  open  my  eyes  and  heart 
to  see  and  take  them  in. 

I started  from  home  alone.  Just  beyond  Cheyenne  I 
overtook  Dr.  Cheek  and  Miss  Grimstead,  and  they  accom- 
panied me  to  the  end  of  my  journey. 

At  San  Francisco  we  met  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Ellinwood,  and 
we  had  the  pleasure  of  their  company  to  Yokohama.  They 
were  going  round  the  world  to  visit  mission  stations,  and 
carry  tidings  home  to  the  churches.  We  have  always  been 
sorry  tliey  did  not  come  to  Siam,  but  thankful  that  we  met 
them  by  the  way,  and  at  this  late  date  acknowledge  a debt 
of  gratitude  for  their  words  of  cheer  and  encouragement. 

Ou  our  ship  was  a large  astronomical  party  going  to  the 
East  to  observe  the  transit  of  Yenus.  The  steamer  Alaska 
was  a pleasant  home  for  us  all. 

We  had  a very  fair  voyage,  just  twenty-five  days  from 
shore  to  shore,  and  yet  I think  I will  never  forget  how  glad 
we  were  to  see  the  green  hills  of  Japan  rising  from  the  sea  ; 
we  had  sighted  Fuji  Yama,  that  landmark  in  the  “Sunrise 
Kingdom  ” long  ere  the  shore  line  was  visible. 

We  tarried  in  Yokohama  a day  or  two,  and  were  wel- 
comed as  kiiidly  by  the  missionaries  as  though  we  had  been 
old  friends.  We  went  to  ride  in  ginrikishas  through  Curio 
Street,  saw  all  manner  of  rare  and  wonderful  things  ; visited 
a tea  house  where  the  workmen  were  preparing  green  tea 
on  great  copper  plates ; laughed  to  see  the  comical  little 
children  playing  in  the  streets,  with  their  odd,  old-fashioned 
clothes,  and  wide,  wide  sleeves,  and  babies  big  and  httle 
strapped  to  their  backs. 


THE  START. 


3 


Then  we  went  through  the  beautiful  inland  sea,  down  to 
Canton,  where  we  spent  six  weeks  waiting  for  a steamer  to 
Siam. 

How  we  enjoyed  our  visit  in  that  miserable  old  Chinese 
city ! There  we  met  many  of  “ God’s  folks  ” who  still  labor 
for  the  heathen,  and  the  better  we  knew  them,  the  more 
we  loved  them ; we  would  like  to  have  pitched  our  tent  in 
the  Celestial  Empire,  and  gone  forth  with  the  reapers  to 
bind  the  sheaves  in  that  wide  harvest  field ; but,  among  the 
last  messages  sent  to  us  from  Hew  York  ere  we  started, 
were  the  words  “ Go  forward,”  and  how  dared  we  halt,  or 
even  dream  of  standing  still  when  we  had  not  yet  reached 
the  end  of  our  journey  ? 

I was  betrayed  into  writing,  however,  in  one  of  my  letters 
from  Canton,  that  had  I come  with  no  definite  point  in 
view,  I am  sure  I should  have  chosen  this  as  my  home,  for 
there  is  great  need  of  more  workers,  and  this  is  such  a 
pleasant  place  in  which  to  be,  and  there  can  be  no  boundary 
to  your  work  except  the  utmost  hmit  of  your  strength.  The 
mission  circle  is  large  and  happy,  and  their  homes  good  and 
comfortable. 

But  over  against  these  pleasant  blessings  of  God’s  pro- 
vision and  tender  care,  we  must  not  forget  that  these 
heathen  cities  are  horrible  in  comparison  to  the  very  filthiest 
portions  of  the  foreign  quarters  in  America.  The  streets 
are  narrow  and  full  of  bad  odors ; the  native  houses  small, 
gloomy,  and  damp  ; the  people  wretched,  ignorant,  and 
sinful.  Their  idol  worship  is  before  you  continually,  for 
altars  and  shrines  are  built  at  nearly  every  doorway,  and 
their  temples  tower  like  palaces  above  the  miserable  huts  in 
all  parts  of  the  city.  Some  of  the  most  gorgeous  temples 
are  black  with  the  smoke  of  incense  that  is  kept  constantly 
burning  upon  their  many  altars,  and  they  are  so  thronged 
with  worsliippers  that  you  can  scarcely  pass  through  them. 

In  Canton,  -with  its  streets  and  water-ways  constantly 


4: 


SIAM. 


swarming,  the  fact  is  driven  home  to  yonr  sonl  that  if  one 
city  can  hold  so  many  human  beings,  the  heathen  world 
must  indeed  have  millions,  and  milUons,  and  millions. 

T^e  are  always  saying  good-bye  to  somebody,  and  so  the 
day  came  when  we  must  leave  Canton.  We  had  a pleasant 
trip  of  a few  hours  down  the  Pearl  River,  past  the  Chinese 
cemeteries  with  their  countless  graves,  built  like  immense 
horseshoes ; past  the  rice  fields,  the  pagodas,  the  forts,  on, 
on  to  IIong-Kong,  that  English  city  on  a Chinese  island. 
Here  we  saw  the  unlading  of  a ship  by  coolies.  Everything 
was  borne  off  either  in  their  hands,  or  on  their  backs  and 
shoulders.  Men  are  too  plenty  to  admit  of  hand-cars, 
trucks,  or  drays. 

The  city  of  Hong-Kong  is  built  on  a hillside,  and  from 
our  ships  as  we  lay  at  anchor  in  the  roadstead,  looked  quite 
beautiful,  especially  at  night,  with  the  gaslights  flashing  up 
and  down  the  streets.  I am  sorry  now,  that  although 
I was  at  Hong-Kong  twice,  I never  set  foot  on  shore.  It 
is  like  a bit  of  Em’ope  waiting  at  a doorway  of  the  Celestial 
Empire,  and  people  of  the  “ Middle  Kingdom  ” can  there 
catch  glimpses  of  what  life  may  be  on  the  other  side  of  the 
world. 


CHAPTER  II. 


OK  TO  SIAM. 

"We  left  Hong-Kong  on  the  14th  of  October,  about  foiir 
in  the  afternoon,  and  at  five  passed  the  AlasJca  lying 
high  and  dry  near  the  Aberdeen  docks,  where  she  had  been 
tossed  on  shore  in  the  late  typhoon.  We  felt  sorry  for  the 
poor  old  ship,  but  thanked  God  for  the  quiet  passage  and 
happy  time  we  had  had  on  board. 

We  were  safe  in  Canton  during  the  terrible  typhoon  of 
1874,  that  almost  destroyed  Macoa,  strewed  the  shores  of 
China  with  wrecks,  and  filled  the  harbor  at  IIong-Kong 
with  sunken  ships.  Hews  went  home  that  the  Alaska 
was  wrecked,  and  the  passengers  lost.  Until  letters  reached 
home  from  China  my  friends  all  supposed  me  dead. 

The  following  midnight  we  saw  the  lights  off  Cape  St. 
James.  Soon  we  had  the  pilot  aboard  and  were  steaming 
up  the  river  to  Saigon.  The  daylight  disclosed  green 
hanks  on  either  side,  and  little  brown  monkeys  peering  at 
us  from  the  branches  of  the  trees.  Palm-trees  clustered  on 
the  plain,  and  we  saw  the  httle  mat  huts  where  the  Anam- 
ites  dwell. 

We  found  Saigon  quite  a modern-looking  place,  with  its 
fine  two-storied  brick  houses,  its  wide  streets,  its  horses  and 
carriages.  There  are  trees  along  the  streets,  and  lamp-posts 
at  every  corner  marked  in  French,  “ Hue  ” so  and  so.  This 
is  a French  port,  and  the  religion  is  Roman  Catholic,  of 
course.  I saw  one  of  the  httle  stone  chapels  with  its  cross 
almost  as  soon  as  I arrived.  There  are  many  priests  here 
and  a large  convent.  AU  the  natives  who  join  the  Cathohcs 

(5) 


6 


SIAM. 


wear  a peculiar  black  dress,  so  they  are  known  wherever 
met.  We  remained  here  nearly  two  days.  The  captain 
secured  a two-horse  carriage  from  a friend,  and  with  a 
coachman  and  footman  of  some  unknown  nationality  we  all 
went  out  for  a drive.  We  visited  the  Botanical  Gardens, 
which  are  quite  beautiful,  but  not  very  well  kept.  Al- 
though the  city  covers  a great  deal  of  ground  it  is  not 
closely  built,  and  the  whole  place  had  the  appearance  of 
being  overgrown  with  weeds  and  verdure.  There  were 
some  beautiful  places,  especially  that  of  the  Governor. 
We  passed  the  barracks  and  saw  the  soldiers  driUiiig  on  the 
parade-ground.  Poor  fellows,  far,  far  from  home,  they 
have  a hard,  rough  life  of  it,  with  none  to  help  them  to  be 
good. 

When  praying  for  missionaries  in  foreign  lands  do  not 
forget  the  other  strangers  sojourning  here.  There  are  hun- 
dreds, yes  thousands  of  Europeans  in  these  Eastern  coun- 
tries. The  temptations  that  surround  them  are  fearful,  and 
often  overwhelming ; and  the  seamen,  they  too  should 
have  a warm  place  in  the  hearts  of  God’s  people. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Saigon  we  entered  the  Gulf  of 
Siam,  and  found  the  smoothest,  brightest  sea  we  ever  saw. 
Scarcely  a ripple  broke  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  the 
very  air  was  still  and  slumbrous  as  though  sleeping  under 
the  southern  sky.  We  passed  Pulo  Obi  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  during  the  day  saw  several  beautiful  rocky  islands : 
one  called  White  Eock,  against  which  the  sea  waves  dash 
angrily  when  beaten  by  storms,  but  they  do  not  wash  away 
the  beautiful  green  moss  that  covers  their  tops. 

Yesterday  we  sailed  S.  E.,  to-day  we  go  N.  W.,  and  the 
sun  sets  on  the  other  side  of  the  ship.  As  I watched  the 
light  die  out  and  the  twilight  deepen,  I thought  of  my  old 
home  far,  far  beyond  the  sunsetting. 

One  day  a little  boat  was  seen  bobbing  up  and  down  on 
the  waves.  They  signalled  to  the  ship,  and  she  hove  to,  and 


ON  TO  SIAM. 


7 


when  the  sorry  craft  came  alongside,  the  poor  passengers 
begged  to  be  taken  on  board.  They  proved  to  be  three 
Chinamen  who  had  drifted  out  to  sea,  and  had  been  tossing 
about  for  seventeen  days.  Their  small  native  boat,  such 
as  we  commonly  see  in  rivers  and  canals,  perhaps  not  more 
than  fifteen  feet  long,  was  half  full  of  water,  and  they  had 
nothing  to  bail  it  out  with  but  a cocoanut-shell.  They  were 
nearly  famished ; they  had  only  seven  sweet  potatoes  and 
about  a pint  of  drinking  water  left.  They  had  eaten  noth- 
ing for  nearly  two  days.  They  said  they  were  saving  the 
potatoes  for  fear  they  would  starve ! After  putting  their 
cargo,  several  old  bags  and  a box,  on  board,  they  chmbed 
on  to  our  ship,  and  then  set  their  old  crazy  tub  afloat,  and 
the  sailors  amused  themselves  shooting  at  it  till  it  could  no 
longer  be  seen. 

On  the  morning  of  the  foxirteenth  day  after  leaving 
Hong-Kong  we  found  ourselves  outside  the  bar  at  the 
mouth  of  the  ma-nam  Chow  Payah,  waiting  for  the  tide 
to  rise  so  we  could  cross  over  and  steam  to  Bangkok.  It  is 
a mistake  that  travellers  must  here  take  little  boats  and  be 
rowed  up  the  river.  It  may  have  been  so  in  the  olden 
time.  Indeed  I have  heard  that  the  Siamese  were  afraid  to 
have  “fire-ships,”  as  they  call  them,  come  to  Bangkok,  and 
to  prevent  it  they  had  great  chains  stretched  from  shore  to 
shore,  and  three  Chinese  junks  laden  with  stones  were  sunk 
across  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  are  to  this  day  a source 
of  danger  and  annoyance.  But  now,  large  steamers  at  high 
tide  cross  the  bar  and  sail  on  and  on  through  a wide,  deep, 
open  river  and  cast  anchor  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Siamese 
capital. 

"\Ve  were  four  and  a half  hours  going  up  to  Bangkok, 
but  it  would  take  me  a long  time  to  teU  all  the  strange 
things  we  saw,  and  the  thoughts  that  filled  the  mind  and 
heart.  I have  no  journal  of  that  time,  and  my  first  im- 
pressions of  this  wonderful  land  to  which  God  had  led  my 


8 


SIAM. 


willing  feet,  were  all  sent  home  in  letters,  and  I cannot  re- 
write them  now.  But  let  me  quote  a page  or  two  from 
Bayard  Taylor’s  “ Siam.”  The  author  visited  Siam  in  1857 
in  one  of  the  vessels  of  the  United  States  East  Indian 
Squadron,  and  was  present  at  the  exchange  of  ratification 
of  the  treaty  made  in  the  previous  year.  He  enjoyed  ad- 
vantages such  as  I have  never  had  of  seeing  the  royal  life  in 
the  capital,  and  of  visiting  places  of  interest,  sacred  and  his- 
toric. He  seems  to  have  ascended  the  river  in  the  old- 
fashioned  way — a row-boat,  but  here  is  his  own  story  : 

“ There  is  enough  to  be  seen  in  Siam  if  only  it  could  be  de- 
scribed. But  nothing  is  harder  than  to  convey  in  woi*ds  the 
indescribable  charm  of  tropical  life  and  scenery;  and  it  was  in 
this,  in  gi'eat  measure,  that  the  enjoyment  of  my  month  in 
Bangkok  consisted.  Always  behind  the  events  which  occupied 
us  day  by  day,  and  behind  the  men  and  things  with  which  we 
had  to  do,  was  the  pervading  chann  of  tropical  nature,  of  soft 
warm  sky,  with  floating  fleecy  clouds,  and  infinite  depths  of 
blue  beyond  them,  of  golden  srmlight  flooding  everything  by 
day,  and  when  the  day  dies,  its  sudden  death,  of  mellow  moon- 
light as  if  from  a peremiial  harvest  moon ; and  of  stai-s  that  do 
not  glitter  with  a hai*d-pointed  radiance,  but  melt  through  the 
mild  air  with  glory  m which  there  is  never  any  thought  of 
twinkling.  Always  there  was  the  teeming  life  of  land  and  sea, 
of  jimgle  and  river ; and  the  varying  influence  of  fruitful  nature, 
captivating  every  sense  with  sweet  allurements. 

‘ ‘ It  was  drawing  toward  the  middle  of  a splendid  night  in 
May  when  I found  myself  among  the  palms  and  temples  of  this 
singular  city.  It  had  been  a tiresome  joiu-ney  from  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  rowing  more  than  a score  of  miles  against  the  rapid 
current;  and  if  there  could  he  monotony  in  the  wonderful 
variety  and  richness  of  tropical  nature,  it  might  have  been  a 
monotonous  journey.  But  the  wealth  of  foliage,  rising  some- 
times in  the  feathery  phxmes  of  the  tall  ereca-palm — of  all  palms 
the  stateliest — or  di’ooping  sometimes  in  heavier  and  larger 
masses,  crowdmg  to  the  water’s  edge  in  dense  impenetrable 
jungle;  or  checked  here  and  there  by  the  toil  of  cultivation;  or 
cleared  for  dwellmgs — was  a constant  wonder  and  delight.  Now 
and  tlien  we  passed  a bamboo  house,  raised  high  on  poles  above 


ON  TO  SIAM. 


9 


the  ground,  and  looking  like  some  monstrous  hird’s-nest  in  the 
trees,  but  they  were  featherless  bipeds  who  peered  out  from  the 
branches  at  the  passmg  boats;  and  not  bu-d’s  notes,  but 
children’s  voices  that  clamored  in  wonder,  or  were  silenced  in 
awe  at  the  white-faced  strangers.  Sometimes  the  shining  roofs 
and  white  walls  of  temples  gleamed  through  the  verdure,  sug- 
gesting the  magnificence  and  beauty  which  the  statelier  temples 
of  the  city  would  exhibit.  Bald-headed  priests,  in  yellow  robes, 
came  out  to  watch  us. 

“Superb  white  pelicans  stood  pensive  by  the  river  side,  or 
snatched  at  fish,  or  sailed  on  sunny  wings  with  quiet  majesty 
across  the  stream.  Or,  may  be,  some  inquhang  monkey,  grey- 
whiskered,  leading  two  or  three  of  tenderer  years,  stops  to  look 
at  us  with  peculiar  cm-iosity,  as  at  some  singular  and  unexpected 
specimen,  but  stands  ready  to  dodge  behind  the  roots  of  man- 
grove trees  in  case  of  danger.  It  wiU  be  fortunate  for  the 
traveller,  if,  while  he  is  ro-wing  up  the  river,  night  shall  over- 
take him ; for  besides  the  splendor  of  the  stars  above  him,  there 
will  be  rival  splendors  all  about  him.  The  night  came  down  on 
me  vfith  startling  suddenness — for  there  is  no  twiliglit  within 
the  com'ts  of  the  sun,  just  as  I was  waiting  at  the  mouth  of  a 
cross-cut  canal,  by  whicli,  when  the  tide  should  rise  a little.  I 
might  avoid  a long  bend  in  the  river.  By  the  time  the  tide  had 
risen,  the  night  had  fallen  thick  and  dark,  and  the  dense  shade 
of  the  jungle  made  it  yet  thicker  and  more  dark. 

“ Great  fern-leaves  grew  on  either  side  of  the  canal  and  almost 
met  over  our  heads.  Above  them  towered  the  forest  trees. 
Among  them  rose  the  noise  of  creatures  countless  and  various. 
But  the  jungle,  with  its  darlmess  and  dim,  had  such  a beauty  as 
I have  never  seen  equalled,  when  its  myriad  fire-flies  spai’kled 
thick  on  every  side.  I had  seen  fii’e-flies  before  and  had  heard 
of  them,  but  I had  never  seen  nor  heard  of  anything  like  these. 
The  peculiarity  of  them  was  that  they  clustered,  as  by  one  con- 
certed plan,  on  certain  kinds  of  trees,  avoiding  carefully  all  other 
kinds,  and  then,  as  if  by  signal,  they  all  sent  forth  their  light  at 
once,  at  simultaneous  and  exact  inteiwals,  so  that  the  whole  tree 
seemed  to  flash  and  palpitate  with  living  light.  Imagine  it!  At 
one  instant  was  blackness  of  darkness,  and  the  croaking  jungle. 
Tlien  suddenly  on  every  side  flashed  out  these  fieiy  trees,  the 
form  of  each,  from  topmost  twig  to  utmost  bough,  set  thick  with 
flaming  iewels. 

1* 


10 


SIAM. 


‘ ‘ This  peculiarity  of  Siamese  fii-e-flies  was  noticed  long  ago  by 
old  Kampfer,  who  speaks  concerning  them  as  follows:  ‘Tlie 
glow-worms  settle  in  some  trees  like  a fiery  cloud,  with  tliis  sur- 
prising circimistance,  that  a whole  swarm  having  taken  posses- 
sion of  a single  tree,  and  spread  themselves  over  its  branches, 
sometimes  hide  their  light  all  at  once,  and  a moment  after  make 
it  appear  again,  with  the  utmost  regularity  and  exactness.’ 

“ The  lapse  of  centmaes  has  wrought  no  change  in  the  rhyth- 
mic regularity  of  this  surpassing  exhibition.  Out  in  the  river 
once  again,  the  houses  on  shore  began  to  be  more  numerous,  and 
pi-esently  they  crowded  together  in  continuous  succession ; and 
from  some  of  them  the  sound  of  merry  laughter  and  of  pleasant 
music  issuing,  jjroved  that  not  all  of  the  citizens  of  Bangkok 
were  asleep. 

“ The  soft  light  of  the  cocoanut-oil  lamps  supplied  the  place  of 
the  fii’e-flies.  Boats  large  and  small  were  passing  swiftly  up  and 
down  the  stream ; now  and  then  the  tall  masts  of  some  merchant 
ships  loomed  thi’ough  the  dai’kness.  I could  dindy  see  high 
towers  of  temples,  and  broad  roofs  of  palaces,  and  I stepped  on 
shore  with  a half-bewildered  feeling  that  I was  passing  thi’ough 
some  pleasant  dream  of  the  ‘Arabian  Nights,’  from  which  I 
should  presently  awake. 

“Even  when  the  fiooding  sunlight  of  the  tropical  morning 
pom’ed  in  through  my  Avindows,  it  was  hard  to  realize  that  I was 
not  in  some  unreal  land.  There  was  a sweet,  low  sound  of 
music  filling  the  air,  with  its  clear,  liquid  tones.  And  joining 
with  the  music  was  the  pleasant  ringing  of  a multitude  of  little 
bells,  ringing  I knew  not  where.  It  seemed  as  if  the  air  was 
full  of  them.  Close  by  was  the  palace  of  a prince,  and  some- 
where in  his  house,  or  m his  court-yard,  there  were  people  play- 
ing ujjon  instruments  of  music  made  of  bamboo.  But  no  human 
hands  were  busy  with  the  bells.  Withui  a stone’s  throw  of  my 
window  rose  the  shining  tower  of  the  most  splendid  temple  in 
Bangkok.  From  its  broad  octagonal  base  to  the  tip  of  its  splen- 
did spire,  it  must  measure,  I should  think,  a good  deal  more 
than  two  hundred  feet,  and  every  foot  of  its  in'egulai'  surface 
glitters  with  ornament.  Curiously  wrought  into  it  are  forms  of 
men  and  bnds,  and  grotesque  beasts,  that  seem  with  their  out- 
stretched hands  or  claws,  to  hold  it  up.  Two-thirds  of  the  way 
from  the  base,  stand  four  white  elephants,  wrought  in  shining 
porcelain,  facmg  one  each  way  toward  four  points  of  the  com- 


ON  TO  SIAM. 


11 


pass.  From  the  rounded  summit  rises  like  a needle,  a sharp 
spire.  This  was  the  temple  tower,  and  all  over  the  magnuicent 
pile,  from  the  tip  of  the  highest  needle  to  the  base,  from  every 
prominent  angle  and  projection,  there  were  hanging  sweet-toned 
bells,  with  little  gilded  fans  attached  to  their  tongues ; so  swing- 
ing that  they  were  vocal  in  the  slightest  breeze.  Here  was 
where  the  music  came  from.  Even  as  I stood  and  looked  I 
caught  the  breeze  at  it.  Coming  from  the  unseen  distance, 
rippling  the  smooth  surface  of  the  swift  river,  where  busy  oars 
and  carved  or  gdded  prows  of  many  boats  were  flashing  in  the 
sun,  sweeping  with  pleasant  whispers  through  the  varied  rich- 
ness of  the  tropical  foliage,  stealing  the  perfume  of  its  blossoms 
and  odor  of  its  fruits,  they  caught  the  shining  hells  of  this  gi’eat 
tower,  and  tossed  the  music  out  of  them.  Something  like  this 
jEohan  tower  there  must  be  in  the  adjacent  kingdom  of  Burmah, 
where  the  graceful  pen  of  ‘Fannie  Forrester,’  Mrs.  Judson,  has 
put  the  scene  in  verse : 

“ ‘ On  the  pagoda  spire 
The  bells  are  swinging, 

Their  little  golden  circlets  in  a flutter 

With  tales  the  wooing  winds  have  dared  to  utter, 

Till  all  are  ringing 
As  if  a choir 

Of  golden-nested  birds  in  heaven  were  singing ; 

And  with  a lulling  sound 
The  music  floats  around 
And  drops  like  balm  into  the  drowsy  ear.’  ” 

This  description  of  the  temple  bells  of  Bangkok  belongs 
to  the  great  pagoda  at  Wat  Chang.  It  is  the  most  impos- 
ing in  the  city,  and  is  the  one  usually  found  in  illustrated 
books  and  articles  on  Siam.  The  great  pagoda,  or  pro- 
chadee,  as  the  natives  call  them,  seems  to  be  of  no  use.  It 
is  simply  to  look  at,  and  in  this  the  old  sajdng  holds  true, 
“ that  di.stance  lends  enchantment,”  for  a nearer  view  dis- 
pels the  illusion  of  granite,  and  of  pure  white  marble ; and 
even  of  porcelain  elephants  and  gold  and  silver  bells. 

I do  not  think  there  is  any  entrance  to  the  interior  except 
just  under  the  dome-shaped  summit,  where  there  is  a cruci- 
form room,  tlirough  the  openings  of  which  at  each  of  the  four 


12 


SIAM. 


arms,  the  “ porcelain  ” elephants  protnide  their  huge  trunks 
into  the  upper  air.  Beneath  this  it  is  a solid  pile  of  brick 
and  mortar,  and  the  elaborate  ornamentation  of  the  outside  is 
principally  plaster,  cunningly  applied  by  the  deft  hands  of 
Chinese  workmen.  There  are  flowers  formed  of  bits  of 
china  and  shells,  and  there  are  rows  of  whole  plates  and 
saucers,  disposed  around  the  pagoda,  or  sticking  in  the 
plaster  up  and  down  the  shining  pillars.  They  are  the 
ancient  suggestion,  perhaps,  of  the  modern  plaques  which 
now  adorn  the  inside  walls  of  the  most  elegant  houses  at 
home. 

You  can  ascend  to  quite  a height  on  the  outside  by  climb- 
ing the  steep  narrow  steps  connecting  the  balustered 
galleries  which  completely  surround  the  prachadee.  When 
I was  there  I climbed  till  I was  tired,  and  yet  far  above  me 
were  the  elephants,  and  I could  hear  the  tinkle  of  the 
bells,  which  are  hung  so  high  up  that  the  trouble  of  getting 
them  would  be  more  to  the  thief  than  they  are  worth,  for 
they  are  neither  gold  nor  silver,  but  a sort  of  bell  metal 
which  no  doubt  holds  the  precious  metals  in  very  small 
percentage.  I was  so  fortunate  as  to  find  one  of  the  “ little 
golden  fans  ” that  had  dropped  from  its  delicate  fastening, 
and  was  surprised  to  find  it  larger  than  my  hand,  and  heart- 
shaped  like  the  leaf  of  their  sacred  poh  tree,  both  the  tree 
and  foliage  of  which  are  similar  to  the  cotton-wood  with 
which  we  are  so  familiar  in  western  America. 

I have  now  been  safely  anchored  in  my  mission  station 
since  the  20th  of  November,  and  you  may  be  surprised  to 
hear  that  I came  “ every  step  ” of  the  way  from  San  Frau- 
cisco  to  the  boat  landing  of  my  new  home  at  Petchaburee 
by  water.  I consider  myself  quite  a sailor  after  traversing 
nearly  nine  thousand  miles  of  ocean  and  sea,  river  and 
canal.  It  required  just  forty-two  days  of  water  travel  for 
my  trip.  Although  I left  Denver  the-  19th  of  July,  I did 
not  reach  Petchaburee  till  the  20th  of  November,  because  I 


ON  TO  SIAM. 


13 


tarried  by  tbe  way.  My  stay  was  very  pleasant  both  in 
Japan  and  China,  and  tbe  two  days  I spent  in  Saigon, 
Cochin  China,  I will  never  forget.  That  French  port  is 
more  like  a civilized  city  than  any  other  I have  seen  on  this 
side  of  the  sea.  These  Eastern  lands  are  more  beautiful 
than  I ever  dreamed  of,  and  Siam  is  not  a whit  behind  any 
of  the  others.  I was  enchanted  with  it  the  very  first  even- 
ing, when,  through  the  moonlight,  we  sailed  up  the  river 
to  Bangkok.  The  pure  white  gleam  of  the  temples  aud 
pagodas,  the  cool  shadows  of  their  sacred  trees,  the  silvery 
ripple  of  the  river  water,  and  the  constant  flash  and  sound 
of  the  fireworks  put  off  in  honor  of  the  king,  with  now  and 
then  a strain  of  native  music,  were  sights  and  sounds  so 
novel  to  me,  that  thoughts  and  memories  of  all  the  Eastern 
romances  I had  ever  read  filled  my  mind ; and  my  heart 
wondered  at  the  seemingly  strange  Providence  that  had 
brought  me  into  their  very  midst. 


CHAPTER  III. 


THE  king’s  realm, 

Siam  is  a small  kingdom  in  the  Horth  Torrid  Zone,  lying 
wholly  within  the  tropics.  Its  entire  area  is  but  190,000 
square  miles,  not  twice  that  of  the  Centennial  State  of 
Colorado,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  Avest  by  the 
Laos  provinces,  Burmah  and  the  Bay  of  Bengal ; on  the 
east  by  Anam  and  Cambodia,  and  on  the  south  by  the  Gulf 
of  Siam  and  the  Malayan  States. 

It  is  the  very  heart  of  Farther  India,  but  it  does  not  seem 
to  furnish  the  life-blood,  the  strength  and  vitality  of  that 
spur  of  the  world  jutting  into  equatorial  seas,  for  foreign 
blood  from  western  nations  is  beating  at  the  extremities,  as 
witness  Singapore  and  Saigon,  and  we  hope  that  soon  the 
rising  tide  wiU  overflow  the  heart  and  stir  its  sluggish 
streams  to  new  and  purer  hfe. 

The  kingdom  stretches  from  about  the  4th  to  the  20th 
or  22d  degree  of  north  latitude,  through  a length  of  some 
1,300  miles  ; its  greatest  breadth  is  about  450  miles,  while 
at  the  Isthmus  of  Kraw  it  is  not  more  than  50  miles.  It  is 
across  tliis  narrow  neck  that  the  French  are  trying  to  gain 
permission  to  cut  a canal,  a measure  which  the  rest  of  the 
world  shoxdd  highly  commend.  But  the  project  is  opposed 
by  all  the  English  advisers  at  the  Siamese  court.  They 
know  too  well  the  fate  of  Singapore  should  the  carrying 
trade  between  China  and  the  rest  of  the  world  flow  across 
the  Gulf  of  Siam  direct  to  the  Indian  Ocean.  They  knoAV, 
too,  that  Saigon  and  Hue  may  both  become  points  of  great 
commercial  interest,  and  the  French  have  the  advantage 
(14) 


THE  KING’S  REALM. 


15 


on  that  coast.  It  is  already  three  decades  since  this  canal 
was  first  spoken  of,  and  it  may  be  years  before  it  becomes 
an  accomphshed  fact. 

French  agents  have  been  at  Bangkok,  and  the  king 
graciously  assisted  them  to  survey  the  proposed  route,  send- 
ing the  party  down  the  coast  in  royal  steamers,  and  in  other 
ways  showing  his  usual  amiability. 

Siam  has  six  principal  rivers,  the  Bangpakong,  Chow 
Payah,  Tacheen,  Ma  Klong,  Petchaburee,  and  Chantaboon, 
besides  many  smaller  streams,  and  almost  innumerable 
canals,  forming  extensive  water-ways,  which  are  the  chief 
thoroughfares  throughout  the  kingdom.  The  bulk  of  all 
travel  is  performed  by  boat,  as  well  as  the  transportation 
of  goods  or  produce  from  one  province  to  another.  There 
are  no  railways  and  no  established  stage-coaches  from  one 
city  to  another.  Within  the  last  year  or  two  hacks  have  been 
running  in  the  capital,  over  the  new  roads  which  are  being 
constantly  extended  and  improved  under  the  present  ener- 
getic young  ruler.  It  was  during  his  royal  father’s  reign  in 
1864,  that  the  first  road,  worthy  the  name,  was  opened  for 
travel  in  Bangkok. 

As  one  leaves  the  capital,  the  roads  become  mere  elephant 
trails,  or  bridle  and  foot-paths  through  the  jungle.  Around 
provincial  towns,  of  course,  there  are  a few  roadways  worn 
into  ruts  and  gullies  by  the  two-wheeled  rice-carts  which 
bear  the  harvests  from  the  fields  to  the  granaries.  But  for 
long,  pleasant  roads,  stretching  for  miles  and  miles  over  hill 
and  dale,  the  traveller  sighs  in  vain. 

The  natural  scenery  of  Siam  is  rather  tame.  Around 
Bangkok  a dead  level  of  rice-fields  and  fruit  gardens,  along 
the  southern  seacoast  it  is  a little  more  rugged,  while  off  to 
the  north,  near  Laos,  it  is  diversified  by  river  and  lake,  hill 
and  mountain.  The  latter  are  misty,  sleepy-looking  eleva- 
tions, which  would  not  be  worthy  of  the  name  except  that 
they  are  so  far  from  the  high  and  lofty  Himalayas  as  to 


16 


SIAM. 


stand  witbont  a rival.  None  of  tliem  are  hisfb  enouffli  ever 
to  be  covered  with  snow.  Indeed,  I tbink  tbe  verdure 
creeps  to  tbe  very  summits.  There  are  many  volcanic 
islands  along  tbe  gulf  coast,  mostly  covered  with  thick  jungle 
and  inhabited  by  wild  beasts.  Fishermen  sometimes  ven- 
ture into  their  quiet  coves,  but  one  might  explore  many  a 
one  vrithout  finding  a single  hnman  habitation.  Some  of 
these  islands  are  singularly  beautiful,  rising  like  mountains 
of  verdure  from  the  deep  blue  sea.  As  you  approach  them 
you  can  see  the  lovely  sea-sheUs,  and  living  corals,  deep, 
deep  beneath  the  waves,  and  the  brightly-colored  fishes 
sporting  in  the  clear  waters. 

Siam  has  a few  good  harbors,  and  the  gulf  is  seldom 
visited  by  those  terrible  typhoons  which  strew  the  China 
seas  with  almost  yearly  wrecks.  Her  larger  rivers  are 
navigable  for  some  miles  from  their  mouths.  But  where 
they  empty  into  the  sea  there  is  usually  a bar,  which  must 
be  crossed  at  high  tide  by  all  large  vessels. 

All  Siam’s  rivers  flow  through  valley  basins,  or  rather 
low-lying  plains,  and  overflow  their  banks  in  the  rainy  sea- 
son. The  most  rain  falls  in  September,  and  during  the 
next  two  months  there  is  scarcely  a path  or  street  in  Bang- 
kok that  is  not  overflowed  at  high  tide  with  water  nearly 
knee-deep.  The  whole  country  near  the  coast  presents  the 
appearance  of  a lake,  with  trees,  houses,  and  temples  peep 
ing  out  of  the  water.  Boats  go  everywhere.  People  lie 
in  their  houses  and  fish,  and  a traveller  arriving  in  Septem- 
ber or  October,  might  ask,  “ Where  is  the  Land  of  the  Avhite 
elephant  ? ” All  he  can  see  is  Siam  in  solution.  Thousands 
of  square  miles  are  watered  and  enriched  by  these 'annual 
floods,  and  made  so  fertile  as  to  rival  the  most  productive 
regions  of  the  earth. 

All  tropical  fruits,  plants,  and  cereals  grow  here  in  the 
richest  profusion.  Food  is  so  cheap  and  abundant  that  no 
one  need  starve  to  death  in  Siam. 


THE  KING'S  REALM. 


17 


“A  more  healthy  city  than  Bangkok  cannot  he  found  in  all 
the  tropics.” 

“ The  climate  of  Siam  is  genial  and  healthy.” 

“ From  November  to  February  the  weather  is  dehghtful,  and 
the  thermometer  is  seldom  below  64°  Fahi-enlieit.  March  and 
April  are  the  hottest  months,  hut  the  thermometer  does  not  rise 
as  high  as  might  be  expected  in  this  latitude.  I have  never  seen 
it  over  98°.  ” 

The  above  quotations  are  taken  from  good  authorities, 
and  I vnll  add  one  more  to  let  the  misinformed  world  see 
what  old  residents,  of  twenty  and  forty  years’  sojourn,  think 
of  Siam’s  delectable  climate  : 

“ Do  not  represent  tlie  climate  of  Siam  as  insalubrious.  People 
die  liere,  so  they  do  everywhere  else,  except  in  heaven.  Here 
people  sometimes  die  of  fever,  of  dysenteiy,  of  cholera,  and 
sometimes  men  dig  their  own  graves  by  the  brandy  bottle,  cut 
their  throats  with  the  broken  glass,  and  tlien  stumble  into  it. 
The  report  that  Siam  is  unhealthy  is  a libel  on  the  cluuate.” 

This  last  is  from  Rev.  Dr.  Dean,  who  came  to  the  East 
half  a century  ago,  and  is  still  living,  a hale  old  man  of 
nearly  eighty,  in  Bangkok. 

The  seasons  are  two,  the  hot  and  cool,  or  wet  and  dry. 
The  northeast  monsoon  blows  from  k7ovember  to  May, 
when  the  wind  changes,  and  the  southwest  monsoon  blows 
until  the  next  November.  The  northeast  monsoon  greatly 
modifies  the  heat  of  March  and  April,  and  makes  the 
Siamese  mid-summer  months  endurable.  The  nights  in 
Siam  are  almost  always  cool  and  comfortable. 

I do  not  hesitate  to  say,  after  a happy,  healthful  resi- 
dence of  ten  years  in  Siam,  that  foreigners,  with  care  and 
temperate  habits,  can  live  here  to  a good  old  age,  and  keep 
as  well  as  in  any  other  land.  But  if  they  are  too  lazy,  or 
keep  too  busy  to  take  proper  exercise,  are  intemperate  in 
eating  and  drinking,  spend  their  nights  in  dissipation  and 
sin,  and  their  days  in  needless  exposure  to  the  sun,  they  can 


18 


SIAM. 


lie  down  in  their  graves  under  the  palm-trees  before  they 
are  forty  years  old ; yea,  even  before  they  are  thirty,  as 
many  a Bangkok  grave  will  testify. 

The  chmate  is  just  as  healthy  as  that  of  Missouri,  Illinois, 
or  Kansas,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a few  months  each 
year,  as  pleasant  as  that  of  Colorado.  Indeed,  I never  spent 
more  delightful  days  under  the  shadow  of  the  Eoeky 
Mountains  than  I have  seen  here  under  the  shadow,  I might 
almost  say,  of  the  equator ! 

There  are  eight  old  people,  Americans,  in  Bangkok  to- 
day, who  have  spent  from  twenty  to  forty  years  here  al- 
ready, and  one  of  them  has  never  been  out  of  Siam  since 
she  arrived,  nearly  thirty-five  years  ago,  and  all  these  are  just 
as  hale  and  hearty,  and  as  strong,  as  old  folks  of  their  age 
in  their  native  land. 

Dr.  Ernest  A.  Sturge,  our  resident  physician,  says  he 
thinks  there  are  as  many  fatal  diseases  in  the  United  States 
as  here,  perhaps  more ; neither  small-pox  nor  measles  are 
usually  fatal,  while  there  are  diseases  which  are  never  found 
here — diphtheria,  and  pneumonia,  and  yeUow  and  scailet 
fever,  for  instance. 

Siam  is  capable  of  supporting  a much  larger  population. 
Ko  regular  census  has  ever  been  taken,  and  we  have  never 
heard  her  people  numbered  higher  than  ten  millions,  and 
sober,  matter-of-fact  minds  are  apt  to  say  six  or  eiglit  mill- 
ions. There  are  vast  tracts  of  unwatered  plain,  and  dense, 
uncut  jungle,  all  of  which  might  he  reclaimed  and  culti- 
vated by  industry  and  perseverance ; hut  thus  far  there  has 
been  no  necessity  for  this,  and  these  broad  lands  lie  wild. 

But  the  Chines 3 are  immigrating  in  large  numbers; 
twenty  thousand  of  them  are  said  to  come  here  every  year, 
and  the  majority  remain.  Other  nationalities  are  flowing 
in  across  the  borders,  and  through  all  the  open  ports,  and 
are  working  changes,  the  end  of  which  we  do  not  yet  see. 
All  these  people  are  attracted  to  Siam  by  her  feifile  soil. 


THE  KING'S  REALM. 


19 


lier  fruitful  gardens,  lier  forests  of  teak  and  otlier  useful  and 
precious  woods ; her  mountains  strewn  with  jewels ; her 
mines  of  gold  and  tin,  lead  and  coal ; her  almost  inexhausti- 
ble fisheries ; her  mild  government,  and  the  free,  untram- 
meled life  they  are  permitted  to  lead  ; while  it  is  a notable 
fact  that  all  foreigners  fare  better  than  the  native  popula- 
tion. Their  privileges  are  greater,  and  their  taxes  less  op- 
pressive. They  are  not  drafted  into  the  army,  and  are  not 
subject  to  the  beck  and  call  of  every  officer  and  nobleman 
in  the  unlimited  ranks  above  them,  for  the  real  native 
Siamese  arc  branded  like  beasts  witli  the  mark  of  their 
masters.  Although  they  call  their  land  Muang  Thai^"* 
the  “ Kingdom  of  the  Fi-ee,”  all  are  slaves ; all  have  mas- 
ters ; from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  except  the  king  uj)on 
his  throne. 

Notwithstanding  the  wonderfiil  proclamation  of  free- 
dom, of  which  one  writer  has  given  sfich  glowing  and 
heart-thrilling  accounts,  the  Siamese  are  a nation  of  slaves 
to-day.  How  could  such  a proclamation,  if  it  was  ever  ut- 
tered, be  anything  but  a dead  letter  to  a people  who  do  not 
wish  to  be  free,  and  who,  if  forbidden  to  sell  themselves, 
their  wives,  and  children,  would  consider  it  a great  op- 
pression ? 

Besides  native  slaves,  there  are,  according  to  one  author- 
ity, one  million  two  hundred  thousand  prisoners  of  war, 
and  their  descendants,  held  in  hopeless  captivity,  and  made 
to  serve  three  months  out  of  every  year.  No  efEort  is  made 
by  their  respective  countries  for  their  redemption.  They 
settle  down  in  the  land  of  their  captivity,  and,  in  time, 
learn  its  manners  and  customs,  language  and  religion ; and, 
intermariying  with  the  poorest  classes,  gradually  lose  their 
nationality,  and  become  a part  of  Siam’s  heterogeneous 
people.  Pui’e,  hona  fide  Siamese  are  very  rare. 

The  most  important  river  in  the  kingdom  is  the  one  at 
Bangkok,  called  by  the  natives  the  Chow  Bayah,  but  known 


20 


S/AM. 


to  the  world  as  the  Ma-nam.  Tlie  latter  is  a common  Siam- 
ese name  for  all  rivers.  “ J/h  ” means  mother,  and  “ nam  ” 
waters,  and  thus  the  Chow  Payah  is,  like  other  rivers,  a 
“ mOrnamP  The  Chow  Payah  rises  among  the  mountains 
of  Yunan,  and  flows  south  for  eight  hundi’ed  miles,  and 
empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Siam.  It  waters  a wide,  fertile 
valley,  and  along  its  hanks  are  clustered  most  of  the  popu- 
lation of  the  kingdom.  Its  commerce  and  wealth,  royal 
power  and  glory,  culminate  in  Bangkok,  the  capital  city. 

As  we  trace  hack  the  annals  of  Siam,  we  must  steadily 
ascend  the  ma-nam  Chow  Payah,  and  approach  nearer  and 
nearer  those  northern  lauds  and  races  from  which  the  indo- 
lent and  uuamhitious  Siamese  descended.  On  its  hanks  ai’e 
ruins  of  former  capitals,  and,  as  each  in  its  turn  was  aban- 
doned, the  newer  cities  crejfl  closer  and  closer  to  the  sea, 
and,  in  the  same  proportion,  they  came  nearer  to  the  rest  of 
mankind.  They  seemed  to  he  escaping  the  exclusiveness  of 
the  Celestial  Empire,  and  reaching  out  hands  for  help  and 
sympathy  to  the  waiting  world. 

But,  as  is  usual  with  newly-opening  countries,  it  was  not 
the  best  exponents  of  the  outside  world  who  flrst  found 
their  way  to  these  shores ; and  it  is  a sad  fact  that  many 
Europeans  who  came  hither  did  not  bring  a hle.ssing  with 
them,  hut  a curse,  and  were  a disgrace  to  their  native  lands. 

The  Portuguese,  with  their  love  of  adventure  and  do- 
minion, were  the  pioneer  visitors  to  Siam.  They  came  in 
the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and,  being  kindly 
received  by  the  king,  they  settled  in  considerable  numbers 
in  Ayuthia,  which  was  then  the  royal  city,  and  in  other 
provinces,  and.  for  nearly  one  hundi’ed  years,  enjoyed  un- 
molested the  advantages  of  commerce  and  diplomacy  ac- 
corded them  by  the  sovereign. 

Then  followed  the  Dutch,  and  afterward  the  French, 
who,  in  the  time  of  Louis  XIV.,  endeavored  to  seduce  both 
the  king  and  his  people  into  an  alliance  with  France  and 


THE  KING'S  REALM. 


21 


Roman  Catliolicism.  But  a singularly  honest  Jesuit  priest, 
less  wily  or  ambitious  than  most  of  his  order,  had  already 
taught  that  “ the  king’s  heart  is  in  the  hand  of  the  Lord,  as 
the  rivers  of  water  ; He  turneth  it  whithersoever  He  will.” 
And  so  that  old  heathen  king,  nearly  two  hundred  years 
asro,  was  able  to  withstand  the  flatteries  of  the  French 
monarch,  and  to  reprove  Louis  XIY.  for  meddling  “ in  an 
affair  which  seems  to  belong  to  God,”  even  the  conversion 
of  a soul. 

In  1854,  Sir  John  Bowring  negotiated  a treaty  between 
Siam  and  Great  Britain,  and  very  soon  after  the  United 
States  of  America  secured  a treaty  through  her  ambassador, 
the  Hon.  Townsend  Harris.  And  now  this  kingdom  is  in 
treaty  relations  with  nearly  all  the  civilized  counti’ies  in  the 
world,  and  their  resident  ministers  and  consuls  occupy  posts 
of  honor  and  influence  at  the  capital. 

The  coming  of  American  missionaries  to  Siam  long  be- 
fore— bringing  with  them  Western  civilization,  good  morals, 
and  the  pure  and  holy  Woi’d  of  God — prepared  the  way  for 
the  formation  of  these  treaties,  and  made  the  work  of  the 
ambassadors  a comparatively  easy  task.  There  was  no  need 
of  gun-boats,  of  powder  and  shell.  It  was  “ peace  and  good- 
will ” that  won  the  hearts  and  confidence  of  these  Orientals. 
And  if  Commodore  Perry,  off  the  shores  of  Japan,  on  board 
his  shii?  of  war,  sang, 

“ Praise  God,  from  whom  aU  blessings  flow,” 

much  more  should  Sir  John  Bowring  and  Mr.  Harris  have 
sung  the  same  glorious  Doxology  when,  not  only  Siam’s 
ports,  but  all  her  inland  cities  and  towns,  were  thrown  open 
with  a welcome  to  the  foreigner. 


CHAPTER  lY. 


PRODUCTS. 

“’Itha^iar,”  Laud  of  Palm,  might  well  be  applied  to 
Siam,  for  everj^here  you  look  will  be  seen  their  graceful 
plumes,  swaying  in  the  tropic  air.  “ Palms  in  cluster  ” dot 
the  wide,  fertile  plains  of  all  Southern  Siam,  and  far  to  the 
north  they  are  found,  and  in  Laos  the  eocoanut  palms  are 
very  large  and  jjroductive.  On  the  Maklong  River  there  is 
a place  called  the  “ City  of  Twenty  Thousand  Palms.”  They 
fringe  the  rivers  and  canals  through  all  the  water-ways  of 
the  entire  kingdom,  and  under  the  trees  are  seen  the  sugar 
camps,  where  the  sweet  sap  is  converted  into  that  delicate 
luxury.  The  Palmjra,  betel,  eocoanut,  and  attap  palms  are 
the  common  varieties. 

The  betel  furnishes  the  nut  which  these  Orientals  eat 
with  lime,  cera  leaf,  and  tobacco.  The  yield  in  Siam  is  im- 
mense, and  great  cargoes  are  shipped  to  India  and  China, 
where  the  same  disgusting  habit  prevails. 

The  Siamese  cocoanuts  are  large  and  meaty,  and  great 
quantities  of  them  ai’e  marketed  even  in  Europe  and 
America. 

The  “ palm  wine,”  of  which  you  may  have  dreamed  as 
something  cool  and  delicious,  is  a very  insipid,  sweetish  sap, 
and  what  we  get  here  is  flavored  with  the  smoked  bamboo 
joints  in  which  it  is  gathered.  When  fresh,  it  is  simple  and 
harmless,  but  if  allowed  to  ferment  it  soon  becomes  an  in- 
toxicating liquor.  It  is  procured  by  squeezing  and  tapping 
the  long  spathe,  or  spike,  containing  the  embryo  blossoms 
and  fruit,  which  ai-e  “full  of  saj),”  and  are  found  near  the 
(22) 


PRODUCTS. 


23 


top  of  the  palm-tree,  just  under  its  crown  of  leaves.  It  is 
very  dangerous  work  to  climb  up  twice  each  day — to  bring 
down  the  full  vessels  in  the  morning,  and  place  the  empty 
ones  there  in  the  evening — for  the  flow  of  sap  is  most  co- 
pious during  the  cool,  dewy  night.  When  tapped  they  can 
be  kept  flowing  for  several  months,  by  occasionally  cutting 
a little  bit  from  the  wound,  thus  opening  it  afresh.  Every 
part  of  the  palm-tree  is  useful,  and  it  is  considered  one  of 
the  greatest  blessings  God  has  given  to  mankind,  and  hence, 
no  wonder  an  old  Eastern  legend  says : “ As  the  palm 
bi’anches  rustle  in  the  night-wind,  they  murmui-  the  sweet 
words,  ‘Jesus,  Jesus.’” 

Our  gardens  are  full  of  tropical  trees  and  flov/ers — the 
bamboo,  the  tamarind,  the  pomegranate,  the  banana,  and 
the  cactus.  The  air  is  sweet  with  the  fragrance  of  tube- 
roses and  shrubs,  and  the  cypress  swings  its  scarlet  bells  by 
the  smooth,  white  w'alks,  while  the  oleanders  are  crowned 
with  great  clusters  of  pink  and  white  blooms.  They  grow 
without  care,  just  as  they  do  in  Palestine.  I love  to  think 
that  the  oleanders  blossomed  and  brightened  all  along  the 
shores  of  Galilee,  where  the  Savioiir  loved  to  walk  in  the 
long-ago  days  of  His  sojourn  upon  earth.  Perhaps  He  gath- 
ered them  in  His  hands  sometimes,  or  mayhe  the  little  chil- 
dren brought  them  to  Him  when  He  laid  His  hands  on 
their  heads,  and  blessed  them. 

I have  some  fragrant  white  flowers  on  my  table  that  were 
gatliered  on  the  mountain  at  sunset.  They  have  a luscious 
odor,  like  ripe  peaches,  and  are  very  beautiful,  with  their 
white  and  pink  veined  leaves  and  golden  heart.  But  I al- 
ways feel  sorry  when  I see  them,  for  I know  that  in  all  the 
heathen  temples  these  flowers,  that  Christ  made,  are  placed 
as  offerings  in  the  open  hand  of  Buddha. 

One  day  a boy  appeared  at  the  school-room  window,  and 
handed  me  a cluster  of  blossoms  from  a century  plant  (aloe). 
It  has  been  standing  in  our  mission  compound  for  years. 


24 


SIAM. 


TTe  noticed,  several  months  ago,  signs  of  flo^vering.  It 
threw  np  a slender  spike,  five  inches  round  at  the  base,  and 
gradually  lessening  to  the  height  of  over  twenty  feet.  About 
four  feet  from  the  top  it  began  to  branch,  and  now  presents 
the  appearance  of  a beautiful  fiower-tree  on  the  top  of  a 
long  pole.  The  fiowers  are  small  and  delicate,  and  hang 
pendant  from  the  branches  like  little  bells.  They  measure 
about  one  inch  across,  and  are  composed  of  six  petals,  six 
stamens,  and  a three-lobed,  fieshy  pistil.  The  prevailing 
color  is  pea-green,  verging  to  creamy  white  at  the  edge  of 
the  petals.  The  stamens  are  covered  with  golden  pollen  on 
little  caps  of  brown  velvet.  They  have  a delicate  odor,  re- 
minding one  of  the  flavor  of  a delicious  apple,  and  perhaps 
this,  with  its  spiny  leaves,  induced  the  Siamese  to  call  the 
plant  “ foreign  pineap})le.” 

We  have  flowers  of  almost  every  name  and  hue,  beauti- 
ful in  color  and  rich  in  fragrance.  Orange  blossoms  and 
magnolias,  camellias,  crepe  myrtle,  Honolulu  creeper,  pas- 
sion flower,  lotus  and  other  water-lilies,  foliage  plants,  and 
vines  and  flowering  tx*ees  of  almost  infinite  variety ; and 
generations  of  ferns,  orchids,  and  parasites.  Besides  all  the 
tropical  flowers,  many  of  whose  names  and  forms  I never 
knew  before  coming  to  Siam,  there  are  many  of  the  dear 
home  favorites,  that  have  been  introduced  by  foreigners, 
such  as  roses,  geraniums,  dahlias,  verbenas,  pinks,  morning- 
gloi’ies,  and  honeysuckle.  The  Siamese  idea  of  beauty  is  a 
paved  yard,  or  a gi-ound  plot  in  which  not  a spear  of  grass 
is  allowed  to  grow.  They  are  very  fond  of  flowers,  but  they 
plant  them  in  pots,  or  have  a few  blossoming  trees. 

The  fruits  embrace  all  the  rich  and  luscious  varieties 
usually  found  in  the  tropics.  Some  of  them  we  must  learn 
to  like,  and  it  takes  as  long,  almost,  as  to  learn  the  lan- 
guage ; but  when  you  once  like  them,  oh,  how  you  do  like 
them!  Pineapples,  oranges,  custard-apples,  pomegranates, 
limes,  plums,  guavas,  some  fifty  varieties  of  bananas  and 


PRODUCTS. 


25 


pumpelows,  a large  species  of  orange  (citrus  decumana), 
one  of  my  favorites,  and  nowhere  better  than  in  Siam.  In 
the  Southern  United  States  it  is  called  the  shaddock.  We 
have  also  “ The  mangosteen,  most  delicate  and  most  rare  of 
them  all.  It  grows  only  in  Siam,  and  the  lands  adjacent  to 
the  Straits  of  Sunda  and  Malacca.  The  mangosteen  is 
Siam’s  peculiar  glory.  Beautiful  to  sight,  smell,  and  taste, 
it  hangs  among  its  glossy  leaves  the  prince  of  fruits.  Cut 
through  the  shaded  brown  and  purple  of  the  rind,  and  lift 
the  upper  half  as  if  it  were  the  cover  of  a dish,  and  the  pulp 
of  half-transparent,  creamy  whiteness  stands  in  segments, 
like  an  orange,  but  rimmed  with  darkest  crimson  where  the 
rind  was  cut.  It  looks  too  beautiful  to  eat,  but  how  the 
rarest,  sweetest  essence  of  the  tropics  seems  to  dwell  in  it 
as  it  melts  to  your  delighted  taste  ! ” And  then,  richest  of 
all,  is  the  durier,  a large  fruit  with  a thick,  prickly  rind. 
If  the  mangosteen  is  prince  of  fruits,  this  is  surely  king. 
Inside  it  is  divided  into  distinct  lobes,  each  containing  sev- 
eral lai-ge  seeds  surrounded  by  pulp.  The  odor  of  the  fruit 
is  terrific,  reminding  one  of  onions  and  elderly  eggs.  But 
the  flavor ! Richest  cream,  and  walnuts,  and  other  inde- 
scribable essences,  produce  the  matchless  durier ! 

Siam  is  rich  in  other  products — spicy  peppers,  cloves, 
nutmeg  and  mace,  cardamums ; cotton,  siigar,  medicines, 
dyestutfs,  gamboge,  sticlac,  pitch,  rice,  beeswax,  ivory,  fish, 
bird’s-nest,  gutta-percha,  tiger  skins  and  bones,  buffalo 
horns,  tumeric,  teak  lumber,  eagle-rose,  and  sapan  woods. 

Among  her  vegetables  we  find  corn,  peas,  radishes,  let- 
tuce, cabbage,  celery,  onions,  garlic,  squash,  melons,  citron, 
cucumbers,  egg-plant,  okra,  beans,  tomatoes,  turnips,  sweet 
potatoes,  and  yams.  There  are  no  carrots,  beets,  parsnips, 
nor  cauliflower.  But  there  are  many  native  vegetables,  new 
to  us,  that  we  learn  to  eat  and  relish,  too.  There  are  no 
grapes  or  berries,  and  only  two  kinds  of  nuts,  cocoa  and 
peanuts,  but  both  of  these  are  very  plentiful.  Tea  grows 
2 


26 


SIAM. 


wild  ; but  I do  not  think  it  is  ever  cultivated,  as  it  can  he 
bought  ah’eady  prepared  from  China  so  cheaply,  A great 
deal  of  tobacco  is  raised. 

The  forests  and  jungles  abound  in  wild  beasts.  There  we 
find  the  elephant,  tiger,  bear,  wildcat,  monkey,  porcupine, 
deer,  buffalo,  wild  boar,  gazelle,  squirrels,  chipmimks,  and 
even  wild  horses.  Of  birds  there  are  many,  and  with  bril- 
hant  plumage,  and  some  of  them  are  sweet  singers ; larks, 
swallows,  doves,  pigeons,  parrots,  mocking-birds,  cat-birds, 
peacocks,  crows,  Java  sparrows,  jays,  woodpeckers,  king- 
fishers, hawks,  snipe,  plover,  ow|s,  heron,  quails,  buzzards, 
bats,  and  wild  ducks,  chickens,  and  geese.  This  land,  like 
all  tropical  countries,  is  infested  with  snakes,  lizards,  and 
creeping  things.  They  are  not  more  dangerous  than  those 
of  America,  and  I have  never  heard  of  a foreigner  coming 
to  his  death  on  their  account ; neither  have  the  crocodiles 
swallowed  any  of  oiir  company  since  the  earliest  years  of 
missionary  effort,  and  I do  not  think  they  ever  will  in  the 
future,  I have  been  stung  more  than  once  by  a scorpion, 
and  the  pain  is  no  worse,  and  the  wound  heals  as  quickly 
as  the  sting  of  a wasp.  Flies,  which  Avere  the  delight  of  the 
brightest  summers  at  home,  are  seldom  seen  in  Siam,  but 
we  haA-e  a goodly  number  of  mosquitoes,  and  ants  are  found 
everywhere,  but  tl;ey  are  splendid  little  scavengers,  and  so 
are  the  crows,  Amltures,  and  lizards ; and  the  latter  are  more 
afraid  of  us  than  Ave  need  be  of  them.  Of  domestic  ani- 
mals there  are  dogs,  cats,  horses,  goats,  donkeys,  cattle,  and 
buffalo.  The  cows  are  not  milked,  as  the  Siamese  have  no 
use  for  milk,  and  the  buffalo  are  trained  to  Avork  in  the  fields 
like  oxen.  The  cats  are  very  queer ; some  of  them  have  blue 
eyes,  and  little  knots  of  tails,  or  no  tails  at  all.  There  are  also 
chickens,  ducks,  geese,  and  turkeys.  In  the  market  we  can 
buy  pork,  beef,  miitton,  A^enison,  buffalo  meat,  fowls,  and 
fish  of  almost  endless  variety,  fresh,  salted,  and  dried,  be- 
sides praAvns,  shrimps,  lobsters,  crabs,  oysters,  turtles,  frogs, 


PRODUCTS. 


27 


eels,  and  devil-fish.  The  natives  think  the  latter  is  quite  a, 
delicacy.  They  also  eat  white  ants,  turtle  and  crocodile 
eggs,  mushrooms  and  snails,  and  silk-worms.  They  are, 
moreover,  so  advanced  in  civilization  that,  like  the  French, 
they  eat  horseflesh  when  they  can  get  it. 

The  mineral  products  are  gold  and  silver,  lead,  iron,  tin, 
copper,  and  antimony.  The  country  is  also  rich  in  coal 
and  petroleum.  And  there  are  quarries  of  white  marble, 
and  other  useful  stones,  jewel  mines  and  mountains,  and 
buried  treasures,  hidden  under  the  ruins  of  many  an  old 
temple  or  Buddhist  pagoda. 

There  is  a great  deal  of  gold  in  Siam,  but  whether  it  has 
all  been  dug  from  her  own  mines,  or  imported,  I cannot 
say.  But  we  do  see  golden  biittons,  ear-rings,  girdles,  chains, 
armlets  and  anklets,  heads,  crowns,  and  betel  trays,  boxes, 
bottles,  tea-pots,  cups,  goblets,  plates,  vases,  pots,  candle- 
sticks, spittoons  and  cigar-cases,  all  pure  beaten  gold.  There 
are  golden  hair-pins,  and  fans  inlaid  with  gold  and  set  ^dth 
gems,  garments  of  cloth-of-gold  with  jewelled  buttons,  sad- 
dles, bridles,  and  all  sorts  of  both  horse  and  elephant  trap- 
pings, ornamented  with  that  most  precious  metal.  There 
are  golden  umbrellas,  and  a golden  chair  and  sceptre  for  the 
king,  golden  idols,  and  pagodas  overlaid  with  gold ; paper 
wdth  gold-foil  pictures ; and  I once  saw  a love-letter,  in  which 
the  first  sentence  was  written  in  letters  of  gold.  Gold-leaf 
is  put  up  in  the  temple  doors  as  offerings  to  the  gods,  and 
pasted  on  coffins  as  signs  of  love  for  the  dead.  Gold  mining 
at  Kabir,  and  other  places,  is  carried  on  in  the  crudest 
manner  possible.  There  are  a few  silver  mines,  but  the 
Government  is  forced  to  buy  Mexican  dollars  to  make  their 
coin  at  the  Royal  mint. 

Tne  people  often  dig  up  treasure  that  has  been  hidden 
by  former  generations,  perhaps  by  misers  or  priests,  or 
people  who  fled  at  the  approach  of  the  invading  armies,  and 
never  returned  for  their  own.  Silver  basins,  knives  and 


28 


SIAM. 


swords,  and  scissors  with  brass  or  silver  handles,  and  old, 
old  coins  and  ornaments,  are  thus  discovered.  It  is  quite 
common  to  bury  money  at  the  present  day,  for  robbers  are 
very  bold,  and  there  are  no  banks  or  safe  deposits  in  Siam 
wliere  the  poor  can  hide  then-  store.  After  a fire,  the  people 
often  retm-n  to  the  ruined  site,  and  dig  up  their  pots  of 
coin. 


CHAPTER  Y. 


BANGKOK. 

Bangkok  is  tlie  Royal  City,  the  capital  and  metropolis 
of  this  kingdom.  There  the  old  barbarous  splendor  of  the 
reahn  culminated,  and  there  the  new  life  sprang  up  that  is 
beginning  to  throb  to  the  utmost  bound  of  the  sleepy  old 
kingdom. 

Bangkok  is  built  for  about  six  miles  on  both  sides  of  the 
noble  river,  Chow  Payah,  and  is  thirty  miles  from  the 
mouth,  but  in  reality  not  more  than  half  that  distance  from 
the  sea.  The  downward  current  of  the  river  is  very  strong, 
but  the  rising  tides  force  the  water  back  into  the  creeks  and 
canals  that  intersect  each  other  all  over  this  semi-aquatic  city, 
which,  hke  the  “ Queen  of  the  Adriatic,”  depends  more  on 
her  water-ways  for  travel  and  transportation  than  on  streets 
of  solid  ground.  Ships  of  the  heaviest  tonnage  anchor  on 
either  side  of  her  wide  river,  and  there  are  steamers,  gun- 
boats, yachts,  tugs,  and  innmnerable  smaller  craft,  of  every 
variety. 

One  unique  feature  of  this  curious  city,  as  of  several 
others  in  Siam,  is  her  floating  houses.  They  are  built  of 
light  wood,  and  thatched  with  the  leaves  of  the  attap  palm 
(Cocos  JSFipa).  They  are  buoyed  up  by  bamboo  rafts,  and 
moored  to  the  bank,  or  to  posts  driven  into  the  mud.  They 
are  nearly  all  occupied  as  shops  or  stores,  and  here  yoxi  can 
purchase  your  supplies  with  very  little  trouble,  by  stopping 
your  boat  and  pointing  out  what  you  want  in  the  wide  open 
room  before  you,  or  having  the  goods  handed  in  to  your 
own  boat  for  inspection. 


(29) 


1 


30  S/AAf. 

You  could  spend  days,  yea,  "u-eeks,  in  siglit-seeing  in  and 
around  Bangkok,  and  yet  go  everyrvhere  in  your  own  boat. 

There  are  some  grand  old  temples,  moss-grown  and  cov- 
ered with  mold,  hidden  among  the  sacred  groves  and  lotus 
ponds,  and  others  newly  built,  or  repaired,  shining  in  all 
the  glory  of  gilt,  fresh  plaster,  and  Chinese  paint.  But 
whether  old  or  new,  haunted  by  pariah  dogs,  and  bald- 
headed  Buddhist  priests,  both  alike,  in  great  measure,  the 
meanest  of  their  kind,  for  every  man  who  is  too  lazy  to 
work  enters  the  priesthood,  where  he  is  always  sure  of  a 
living,  and  carries  in  his  heart  an  expectation  of  a good 
place  in  the  next  world,  which,  I fear,  is  not  so  sure  as  his 
daily  rice. 

It  is  said  that  there  are  ten  thousand  of  these  drones  in 
Bangkok  alone,  and  one  can  easily  believe  it,  for  you  meet 
them  everywhere,  and  there  are  hundreds  of  temples  and 
monasteries  to  shelter  and  support  them. 

Of  the  city’s  half  million  people,  perhaps  nearly  one-half 
are  Chinese,  Hindoos,  Malays,  and  other  foreigners,  of  whom 
less  than  three  hundred  are  Europeans. 

Mhen  Bangkok  was  founded  in  1782,  the  king’s  palaces 
and  all  the  principal  buildings  were  erected  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  but  now  the  royal  palaces  of  both  the  first  and 
second  kings  are  on  the  other  side,  also  the  famous  temple 
of  the  Emerald  idol,  and  Wat  Poh,  with  the  royal  mint, 
the  museum,  the  forts,  arsenals,  the  post  and  telegraph  of- 
fices, the  best  streets,  ch’ives,  markets,  gnd  stores. 

Merchants  like  best  to  have  a river  front  for  their  houses, 
but  all  cannot  secure  this,  and  of  late  years  the  king  has 
allowed  many  to  establish  themselves  within  the  walls  of 
the  city. 

The  walls  are  fifteen  feet  high  and  twelve  broad,  and 
surrounding  the  city  proper  extend  some  four  and  a half 
miles.  This  wall  is  pierced  by  sixteen  large  gates  and 
forty-seven  smaller  ones,  and  defended  by  sixteen  octagonal 


BANGKOK. 


31 


forts,  two  stories  liigh,  and  having  two  and  three  tiers  of 
portholes.  Within  the  city  walls  are  palace  walls,  thick 
and  high,  with  double  doors  and  frowning  forts,  and  in  this 
most  carefully  guarded  enclosure  are  the  grand  royal  pal- 
aces of  the  king  and  queen,  and  scores  of  other  palaces  for 
the  royal  harem,  that  “ City  of  Women,”  of  which  we  have 
so  often  heard.  The  armory  and  the  royal  mint  are  both 
within  the  palace  walls.  It  is  estimated  tliat  the  city  walls 
enclose  one  hundred  thousand  souls ; this  leaves  four  or  five 
hundred  thousand  outside,  and  if  the  city  were  attacked  or 
besieged,  it  would  be  impossible  for  such  a multitude  ever 
to  find  shelter  behind  the  gates. 

Bangkok  is  situated  upon  a plain  which  is  almost  a dead 
level ; there  are  no  hiUs  or  mountains  to  relieve  the  eye  in 
any  direction.  This  plain  is  covered  with  rice  fields,  vege- 
table gardens,  fruit  and  spice  orchards,  and  gardens  of  betel, 
cocoanut,  banana,  and  other  tropical  trees  ; orange,  mango, 
coSee,  and  nutmeg.  The  soil  is  alluvial,  and  very  rich  and 
fertile,  and  the  annual  inundations  prevent  it  from  becom- 
ing worn  out  and  unproductive  ; nevertheless,  especially  in 
the  betel  gardens,  the  natives  often  use  rotten  fish  as  a fer- 
tilizer, which  produces  anything  but  “ spicy  breezes,”  as 
the  evening  air  drifts  through  the  quiet  groves  of  palm. 
But  if  you  are  so  fortunate  as  to  be  gliding  through  moonlit 
canals  in  other  parts  of  the  city,  where  the  flower-gardens 
and  orange-trees  are  blooming  in  beauty  and  fragrance, 
ev^ery  sense  is  filled  with  delight,  and  one.  could  almost 
wish  they  might  drift  through  such  enchanting  ways  forever. 

Like  all  Oriental  cities,  Bangkok  has  few  sanitary  laws, 
and  such  as  have  been  enacted  are  seldom  strictly  enforced  ; 
yet  it  is  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in 
the  East,  and  the  cause  is  mainly  due  to  the  ebb  and  flow 
of  the  tide  in  the  ma-nam  Chow  Payah,  which  cleanses  the 
water-ways  and  can-ies  the  refuse  seaward. 

The  streets  are  nearly  all  very  narrow  and  crooked,  and 


32 


SIAM. 


only  adapted  to  the  Siamese,  who  nntil  lately  never  pre- 
tended to  use  carriages,  and  always  walked  single  file. 
They  are  also  very  uneven,  with  here  and  there  great  holes, 
crossed  by  rough  stepping-stones,  and  during  the  highest 
tides  are  overflowed  with  water,  sometimes  knee-deep,  for 
several  hours  each  day.  But  the  people  go  barefoot,  and 
can  pull  up  the  waist-cloth  to  the  desired  height,  and  so 
never  dream  of  improvement. 

There  are,  however,  a few  wide,  pleasant  streets  that  de- 
serve the  name,  and  on  the  king’s  side  of  the  city  they  are 
long  enough  to  furnish  six  or  seven  miles  of  good  driving. 
They  are  kept  in  tolerable  repair,  and  in  the  dry  season 
sprinkled  through  the  heart  of  the  city  to  lay  the  dust,  and 
at  night  lighted  by  lamps  and  patrolled  by  watchmen  and 
police. 

The  Chinese  are  very  clannish,  and  settling  together  have 
given  to  some  portions  of  the  city  quite  a “ Celestial  ” ap- 
pearance. Their  streets  are  close  and  dark,  some  of  them 
covered  overhead,  and  filled  with  real  Chinese  odors,  prin- 
cipally onions,  samshoo,*  and  opium. 

But  the  people  are  industrious  and  enterprising,  and  do 
most  of  the  work  and  control  much  of  the  wealth  of  Bang- 
kok, outside  of  what  is  in  the  hands  of  the  kings  and  nobles. 
Some  of  them  have  acquired  titles  and  live  in  palaces,  and 
own  steamships  and  mills.  They  have  their  temples  and 
joss-houses,  their  religious  fetes,  processions,  and  festivals. 
Their  holidays  are  recognized  by  the  Government,  and  are 
granted  the  same  privileges  enjoyed  by  the  Siamese  national 
days.  Their  secret  societies  are  many  and  formidable,  one 
especially,  called  the  Ang  Y^ee,  which  sometimes  threatens 
the  peace  of  the  kingdom  and  often  disturbs  that  of  the 
city.  Its  members  seem  banded  together  for  mutual  pro- 
tection in  wrong-doing. 


* Chinese  liquor. 


BANGKOK. 


33 


I consider  tlie  Chinese  the  privileged  class  in  Siam  ; they 
fare  better  in  every  respect  than  the  ordinary  natives  ; for 
this  reason  we  find  many  of  the  latter  cultivating  queues 
and  trying  to  pass  as  Chinamen.  There  is  also  a Mussul- 
man’s Square  in  Bangkok,  where  the  Mohammedan  Hin- 
doos live  and  die.  Their  houses  are  built  of  brick,  and  the 
little  stalls  of  shops  are  filled  with  many  curious  and  useful 
things.  All  are  merchants  or  peddlers.  They  have  mosques 
and  retain  their  old  religion  and  old  home  habits  as  much 
as  possible.  They  keep  the  long,  long  fasts,  and  go  on  pil- 
grimages to  Mecca. 

Bangkok  is  quite  cosmopolitan,  and  her  motto  seems  to 
be,  “ Live  and  let  live.”  She  is  growing  to  be  more  and 
more  European,  with  her  Lord  Mayor,  her  marshals,  consta- 
bles, courts,  and  judges  ; her  military  guard  inside  the  city 
walls,  and  her  land  and  water  police ; her  hacks  and  ’busses, 
her  regular  steamer  to  Ayuthia,  and  another  down  the  coast 
to  Aughin,  Bangplasoi,  Patriew,  and  Chantaboon.  There 
is  a custom-house  and  officers,  lighthouse,  cable,  telegraphs 
and  telephones,  gas  and  electric  lights,  and  a system  of  sig- 
nals by  which  news  and  calls  for  help  can  be  readily  trans- 
mitted. There  are  charts  of  the  great  river,  maps  of  the 
city,  and  lately  a Siamese  General  Directory  has  been  com- 
pleted. 

The  king’s  army  and  navy  have  their  headquarters  in 
Bangkok,  and  consist  of  the  royal  bodyguard,  one  squadron 
of  cavah’y,  two  battalions  of  infantry,  and  one  company  of 
artificers  and  sappers,  three  field  officers,  five  aides-de-camp, 
eight  in  the  regimental  staff,  eight  lieiitenants,  nine  sub- 
lieutenants, and  thirteen  cadets.  In  connection  with  the 
Koyal  Guards  is  a surveying  department,  composed  of  three 
foreigners  and  two  native  assistants.  Then  there  are  ti  e 
artillery,  elephant  troops,  and  marine  corps,  ^\uth  twelve 
gun-boats  carrying  thirty-nine  guns.  The  Siam  Supporter.^ 
of  eight  hundred  and  twenty  tons,  is  the  largest,  and  carries 
2* 


34 


SIAM. 


ten  gnns.  There  is  a fort  at  Pahnara  intended  to  guard 
the  approach  to  the  city.  In  times  of  j>eace  it  may  do 
pretty  well  as  a health  resort  for  soldiers,  but  in  case  of  war 
it  would  never  prove  a Gibraltar. 

The  city  is  of  considerable  corumercial  importance.  Dur- 
ing the  reign  of  Pranang  Klow,  which  extended  from  1824 
to  1851,  the  king  and  his  chief  ministers  of  state  iiad  con- 
trol of  the  commerce  of  the  country,  and  entirely  monoj>- 
olized  tlie  trade  between  Siam  and  the  outside  world. 
They  owned  and  loaded  Chinese  junks  which  made  annual 
trips  between  Siam  and  China.  But  finding  these  awkward 
vessels  too  unwieldy,  they  essayed  to  build  better  ones  of 
then-  own.  In  1835  the  late  ex-regent,  then  an  energetic 
young  noble,  had  built  and  presented  to  the  king  the  first 
square-rigged  vessel  ever  made  and  ovmed  in  Siam.  Others 
were  built  in  rapid  succession,  and  both  European  and 
American  A^essels  purchased,  which  served  as  models  for  the 
native  workmen.  But  it  was  not  until  1855  that  the  first 
steamer  was  built  here. 

The  aim  of  the  Government  was  to  keep  the  dreaded  and 
hated  Europeans  out  of  their  ca]fital,  but  they  Avere  com- 
pelled to  employ  them  to  command  their  A^essels,  as  the 
Siamese  are  A^ery  poor  and  ignorant  sailors.  These  vessels 
soon  unfurled  the  Siamese  flag  in  Singapore,  the  Nether- 
lands, East  India  Islands,  and  the  ports  of  China.  But  that 
old  selfish  policy,  so  detrimental  to  the  true  interests  and 
prosperity  of  the  kingdom,  has  long  since  been  abandoned, 
and  commerce  has  been  relieved  of  many  of  its  former  re- 
strictions ; still  it  is  not  as  free  and  encouraging  as  the  pres- 
ent day  demands. 

There  are  now  five  steamers  making  regular  trips  to 
Singapore  and  back,  and  seven  that  cruise  between  here 
and  Ilong-Ivong.  There  are  forty-four  Siamese  merchant 
vessels  flying  the  Siamese  flag,  but  cominanded  by  German 
or  Danish  captains  ; Avith  other  occasional  steamers. 


BANGKOK. 


35 


In  the  olden  time,  say  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago,  there 
were  a few  American  ships  in  port,  but  now  their  appear- 
ance is  so'  very  rare  that  they  are  made  the  topic  of  a 
special  newspaper  article.  Last  year  we  saw  the  following : 

“It  appears  that  Siam,  which  has  little  trade  with  Europe, 
has  still  less  with  the  United  States.  The  records  of  the  con- 
sulate state  that  there  has  been  but  one  direct  shipment  from 
Siam  to  the  United  States  the  past  four  years.  Some  few  Amer- 
ican commodities,  such  as  kerosene,  oil,  flour,  canned  goods, 
light  vehicles,  pumps,  weighing  scales,  firearms,  and  sewing- 
machines,  find  their  way  thither  in  foreign  bottoms  thi’ough 
other  markets.” 

English  and  German  ships  do  most  of  the  carrjdng  trade 
to  and  from  foreign  lands.  In  1882  the  imports  amounted 
to  §7,101,361.  Of  course  opium  and  liquor  head  the  list, 
the  first  amounting  to  $181,862,  and  the  second,  $302,020. 
Kerosene  oil  comes  next  with  $39,113.  There  were  nearly 
$25,000  worth  of  silk  Chinese  trousers,  and  over  $37,000 
worth  of  umbrellas.  But  tliis  last  item  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  when  we  remember  that  the  sun  is  likely  to  shine 
every  day  in  the  year  (as  it  did  actually  in  1883)  in  Siam, 
and  the  rain  to  fall  six  months  out  of  the  twelve. 

Some  one  has  said  that  kerosene  oil  is  the  most  effective 
civilizer  that  was  ever  introduced  into  Japan,  because  it 
lightened  the  darkness  of  millions,  adding  to  their  hours  of 
peaceful  labors,  and  thus  increasing  their  wealth  and  hap- 
piness. I am  not  prepared  to  say  quite  as  much  for  its 
power  in  Siam,  but  it  is  wonderful  to  all  how  the  oil-lamps 
have  taken  the  place  of  the  smoky,  fitful  torch,  even  in  the 
huts  of  the  poorest.  As  none  but  the  best  oil  is  ever 
shipped,  we  never  hear  of  an  explosion. 

The  steamships  with  cargoes  “ entered  ” at  the  Siamese 
Custom-house  in  1882  were  238,  of  135,920  registered 
tt>nnage  ; sailing  vessels  with  cargoes,  103  ; Chinese  junks, 
151 ; steamers  entered  in  ballast,  10  ; sailing  vessels  in  bal- 


36 


S/AM. 


last,  57.  Total  number  entered,  559  ; value  of  cargoes  as 
already  stated,  $7,104r,3Gl.  In  1881  there  were  585  vessels 
witli  cargoes  worth  $6,279,4:81-. 

The  exports  amount  to  a little  more,  averaging  a httle 
over  two-thirds  of  a million  per  month.  The  greatest 
value,  I noticed,  was  for  July,  1883,  when  the  report  was 
$1,120,539.  The  principal  articles  are  rice,  sugar,  pepper, 
and  peas ; rose,  ebony,  teak,  sepan,  and  agilla  woods  ; salt  and 
dried  fish ; mussels  and  shrimps ; hemp ; ox  and  buffalo 
hides,  horns,  bones,  and  hoofs ; elephant  and  rhinoceros 
hides  and  bones ; tiger  and  other  skins ; cardamums,  cotton, 
gamboge,  sticlac,  indigo,  gumbenjamin,  lotus  and  other 
seeds ; tobacco,  tamarinds,  betel-nuts,  cocoa  and  ground- 
nuts ; turtle  shells,  raw  silk,  fish  maws,  sharks,  armadillo 
and  snake  skins,  birds’-nests,  ponies,  and  cattle. 

The  street  scenes  are  often  very  comical.  The  houses  in 
the  markets  are  so  made  that  the  front  can  all  be  taken  down 
in  the  daytime,  and  the  whole  inner  room  and  its  contents 
exposed  to  view.  If  they  have  counters,  they  fill  nearly 
the  whole  room,  which  is  often  not  more  than  ten  by  eight 
feet,  and  upon  it  the  merchant  sits  in  the  midst  of  his 
goods.  The  whole  family,  which  usually  lives  in  or  back 
of  the  store,  comes  and  goes  at  its  own  sweet  will ; and 
often  the  baby’s  hammock  is  swung  from  the  ceihng,  and 
the  little  one  is  cared  for  while  customers  are  waited  on. 
All  sorts  of  trades  are  carried  on  in  sight  of  every  passer- 
by. You  stop  at  a restaurant  or  bakery,  and  you  see  the 
inmates  prepare  the  food  or  cake  before  your  very  eyes. 
The  blacksmiths  and  tinners  are  hammering  for  dear  life ; 
and  the  tailors  cutting  and  sewing,  but  always  on  the  alert 
to  sell  a needle  or  a half  dozen  buttons. 

In  the  barber-shops  yoii  can  see  the  luckless  Chinaman 
S(]uirming  and  making  faces  while  he  sits  on  a high  stool 
with  neither  back  nor  foot  board,  and  has  his  ears  picked, 
his  head  and  eyebrows  shaved,  and  his  eyelashes  and  beard 


BANGKOK. 


37 


pulled  out.  The  gamblers  squat  in  fascinated  groups,  too 
intent  on  their  game  to  look  up  or  care  who  sees  them  at 
the  nefarious  business.  The  liquor-jars,  too,  are  out  in  the 
street,  and  the  people  stop  and  drink  with  as  much  indif- 
ference as  if  it  was  water  from  a public  fountain.  Pigs, 
dogs,  cats,  and  children  thi-ong  these  thoroiighfares ; there 
is  no  danger  from  horses  or  carriages,  the  streets  are  far  too 
naiTOw  to  admit  them,  and  all  are  willing  to  turn  out  of 
the  way  for  the  children. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  go  to  the  Fiji  Islands  to  see  babies 
dressed  in  scarlet  pocket-handkerchiefs,  for  that  is  a favor- 
ite costmne  in  Siam ; and  although  I have  never  seen  one 
in  an  old  umbreUa-cover  or  a flour-sack,  a la  Panama,  nor 
young  men  like  the  Japs,  Avith  stove-pipe  hats  or  ladies’  bon- 
nets, yet  there  are  other  combination  suits  just  as  ludi- 
crous, viz. : bracelets,  anklets,  and  a woolen  hood  ; a birth- 
day suit  and  a warm,  comfortable  cigar ; a waist-cloth  and 
a lace  sofa-tidy  for  a scarf ; and  there  goes  a pretty  noble- 
man who  failed  to  finish  his  toilet  before  he  left  the  house, 
for  he  is  followed  by  a train  of  servants  carrying  his  hat, 
shoes,  and  umbrella,  and  others  bearing  his  betel-box,  his 
cigars,  teapot  and  cup. 

We  meet  Chinese,  Siamese,  Laos,  Cambodians,  and  Ka- 
rens, and  now  and  then  a disdainful  Hindoo,  who,  no  mat- 
ter what  caste  he  belongs  to  himself,  seems  to  feel  quite 
sure  every  one  else  he  meets  is  a “ pariah.” 

We  sometimes  hear  shrill,  falsetto  voices  above  the  din 
of  the  multitude,  and  passing  on  to  where  the  crowd  is  so 
dense  you  can  hardly  force  your  way  thi’ough,  you  will 
see  a stage  thrown  across  the  street,  and  a band  of  Chinese 
eunuchs,  dressed  as  men  and  women  ; mandarins  and  slaves 
performing  some  wonderful  tragedy,  with  both  action  and 
voice  raised  to  the  highest  pitch.  Jugglers  also  come  into 
the  street,  treading  fire,  and  climbing  knife-ladders  in  their 
bare  feet,  and  piercing  their  cheeks  with  daggers.  Here 


38 


SIAM. 


wander  the  sick  and  the  lame,  the  leprous  and  crazy,  and 
the  blind,  dumb  beggars  ; for  Buddhism,  that  is  too  gentle 
and  benevolent  to  kill  a dog  or  let  a sick  cat  starve,  but  will 
nourish  them  in  its  temple  grounds,  has  never  taught  its 
adherents  to  build  homes  and  hospitals  for  poor,  distressed 
human  beings,  but  leaves  them  to  die  in  the  streets. 

Often  we  see  an  idol-procession : a great  gilded  Buddha 
seated  cross-legged  on  a litter,  and  carried,  with  shouts  and 
beating  of  drums  and  gongs,  to  see  how  hot  the  sun  is,  and 
how  much  rain  is  needed.  Again  you  will  see  him  en- 
tlironed  in  the  roadways,  and  an  altar  before  him  loaded 
with  gifts,  and  burning  incense-sticks,  while  Siamese  theat- 
ricals are  being  performed  for  his  entertainment.  All  such 
plays  and  performances  are  free.  Some  nobleman  or  rich 
person  hires  the  troupe,  and  then  thinks  he  makes  merit  by 
letting  others  see  the  performance  for  nothing.  All  that 
is  necessary  is  the  stage  and  an  awning.  There  is  no  cur- 
tain even,  and  the  actors  array  themselves  in  public.  One 
would  almost  think  it  was  counted  in  as  a part  of  the  play. 

But  it  is  out  upon  the  river  that  every  phase  of  city  life 
displays  itself.  It  is  the  splendid  highway  of  commerce, 
of  trade,  of  fashion,  and  of  journeys.  The  palaces  and 
temples  have  their  gates  upon  the  river.  Out  upon  the 
river  come  the  kings  in  their  great  di’agon  boats,  that  look 
like  ceutipedal  monsters  with  uplifted  heads.  As  these 
strange  craft  make  swiftly  toward  one,  and  the  sharp,  staii;- 
liug  cry  of  the  dusky  and  almost  naked  oarsman,  breaks 
upon  the  ear,  no  second  exhortation  is  required  to  clear  the 
way  for  royalty.  Out  upon  the  river  come  the  kings  for 
coronation  or  for  burial.  Oat  upon  the  river  come  the 
priests  to  visit  or  to  beg  or  to  perform  their  priestly  func- 
tions at  some  distant  shrine  or  temple.  Out  upon  the  river 
come  the  peddlers  with  their  merchandise,  and  the  huck- 
sters with  their  various  supplies.  Out  upon  the  river  for  a 
visit  or  a purchase  or  an  airing  all  must  go  who  live  in 


BANGKOK. 


39 


Bangkok,  as  you  would  go  out  upon  Broadway  or  upon  the 
avenue,  if  you  are  living  in  New  York.  Until  lately 
the  river  frontage  of  palaces  was  nothing  but  a group  of 
scraggy  boat-houses  and  servants’  quarters ; but  now  better 
ideas  prevail,  and  good  landings  and  graceful  salas  or 
porches,  with  here  and  there  a dooryard,  may  be  seen. 

There  are  some  beautiful  private  gardens  in  Bangkok, 
adorned  with  fountains  and  statuary,  fish-ponds,  lotus-hly 
lakes,  and  cages  for  birds  and  animals.  They  are  pleasant 
parks  in  the  midst  of  heathenism,  and  foreigners  are  al- 
lowed to  visit  them  frequently.  The  Minister  of  Foreign 
Affairs  gives  delightful  garden  parties,  and  invites  all  the 
missionaries  and  other  foreigners.  There  are  arbors  covered 
with  fiowering  vines,  fmmished  with  seats  for  the  weary. 
There  are  tables  and  garden  chairs  of  iron,  painted  some  pret- 
ty color.  They  also  furnish  music  and  refreshments,  the  lat- 
ter prepared  at  a European  bakery,  and  including  many  of 
the  good  things  of  the  home-land,  even  ice-cream  and  cake. 

The  Koyal  Museum  is  open  every  Saturday  from  twelve 
»i.  to  half-past  four  p.m.,  and  so  is  the  king’s  garden  at  the 
Saraurom  Palace,  except  when  the  Buddhist  sacred  day 
falls  on  Saturday.  Bands  of  music  are  in  attendance,  and 
it  is  a favorite  resort.  Occasionally  the  king  gives  a gar- 
den party  there  to  distinguished  guests.  "When  the  Duke 
of  Mecklenburg  was  in  Bangkok  he  was  entertained  and 
saw  the  white  elephants  there  in  their  royal  trappings  of 
scarlet  and  gold.  Several  alligators  are  kept  in  a pond  near 
one  of  the  gateways.  A new  building  for  rare  ])lants  has 
been  erected ; and  just  lately  the  guests  of  a brilliant  gar- 
den party  dined  there,  surrounded  by  twenty-six  varieties  of 
orchids  all  in  bloom,  while  two  royal  bands  discoursed 
pleasant  music.  The  croquet  and  tennis  lawns  are  carefully 
preserved.  Princes  and  nobles  often  give  birthday  parties, 
and  also  invite  foreign  guests  at  the  opening  of  new  palaces, 
or  when  their  children  have  their  topknots  shaved  ofi’. 


40 


SIAM. 


There  is  very  little  foreign  society  in  Bangkoh,  and  what 
there  is,  seldom  meets  except  at  church  or  on  some  public 
occasion,  for  it  is  a city  of  magnificent  distances,  especially 
if  the  tide  hajipens  to  be  against  you  both  going  and  re- 
turning. , 

There  is  an  English  chapel  where  the  missionaries  hold 
regular  services  on  the  Lord’s  day.  The  Ladies’  Libi’ary 
is  kept  in  this  chapel,  and  is  opened  once  a week  for 
the  exchange  of  books.  It  contains  thousands  of  vol- 
umes in  English,  French,  and  German.  Near  by  is  the 
foreign  cemetery.  The  plot  of  ground  was  given  by  the 
late  king  in  1853,  and  already  there  are  quite  a number  of 
graves.  Many  of  them  are  filled  by  dear  little  children 
who  were  called  away  before  they  knew  the  sin  and  sorrow 
of  the  wicked  laud  in  which  they  were  born  ; others  are 
graves  over  which  parents  might  weep  forever,  of  wild, 
wicked  sons,  who  mined  soul  and  body  with  the  vices  and 
indulgences  of  this  idolatrous  and  voluptuous  city,  and 
Avho,  with  natural  force  abated,  and  eyes  bleared  aud  dim, 
died  before  their  heads  were  gray  ; sailors,  too,  who  expired 
in  this  strange  land,  far  from  home  and  friends,  some  on 
shipboard,  aud  others  whose  bodies  were  recovered  from 
the  water. 

There,  too,  are  many  “ asleep  in  Jesus”;  those  old  saints, 
Drs.  Jones  aud  Bradley,  "svith  their  wives,  who,  one  might 
almost  say,  were  “ the  beginning  of  the  Gospel  ” in  Siiun, 
and  grouped  about  them  are  others  who  finished  their 
coiu'se  aud  were  translated.  Caswell,  French,  and  Chileott ; 
Mary  Campbell,  whose  bright  young  life,  like  that  of  Mr. 
Benliam,  was  quenched  in  the  deep  waters  of  the  Chow 
Payah  ; and  Da\fid  MacLaren,  who  last  year  was  called  to 
wear  the  victor’s  crown,  when  he  had  but  just  buckled  on 
the  armor,  and  as  a Christian  soldier  was  preparing  to  storm 
Satan’s  citadel.  All  are  sleeping  side  by  side,  waiting  for 
the  resurrection,  wliile  the  ])ahii-trees,  like  stately  sentinels. 


BANGKOK. 


41 


guard  the  spot,  and  tlie  sunshine  and  the  rain,  the  rush  and 
the  whirl  of  the  heathen  capital  are  alike  unheeded. 

Besides  the  legations  in  England  and  America,  the  king 
has  an  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary 
at  the  courts  of  Continental  Europe ; Consuls-General  in 
London,  Paris,  N^ew  York,  and  Hamburg — all  foreigners; 
also  consulates  in  Calcutta,  Hong-Kong,  Macao,  Lisbon, 
Mauritius,  Penang,  Bangoon,  Saigon,  Singapore,  Batavia, 
Bordeaux,  Marseilles,  and  Vienna,  and  the  different  powers 
in  treaty  relations  with  Siam  also  have  their  representatives, 
legations,  consulates,  and  agencies  in  the  royal  city  of  Chula- 
langkorn. 

Bangkok  is  no  longer  the  sleepy  old  city  of  fifty  years 
ago,  when  the  events  of  greatest  interest  were  the  capture 
of  a white  elephant,  the  consecration  of  an  idol,  the  burn- 
ing of  an  old  king  or  the  enthronement  of  a new.  It  has 
been  awakened  by  the  call  of  the  Western  world,  and  will 
never  again  sink  into  the  former  lethargy. 


CmVPTER  VI. 


PEEPS  INTO  PALACES. 

The  king  and  kis  royal  family  do  not  live  in  that  uttei 
seclusion  and  privacy  wliich  characterize  the  imperial 
household  of  his  celestial  neighbor,  the  Emperor  of  China. 
Although  the  doors  are  not  thrown  wide  open  to  all  who 
would  come  and  go,  yet  it  is  always  possible  to  gain  an 
audience  with  the  king ; and  even  the  queen  is  not  invisi 
ble,  though  dwelling  in  her  private  palace  within  the  triple- 
walled  “City  of  Women.”  And  whoever  meets  their 
majesties  are  sure  of  a gracious  reception. 

in  the  fall  of  1882,  the  United  States  Minister,  Mr. 
Ilalderman,  secured  a private  audience  for  the  old  and  new 
missionaries.  Quite  a reinforcement  had  reached  us  ; some 
for  Siam  proper,  and  others  who  had  Cheung  Mai  as  their 
objective  point. 

At  the  appointed  horn’  we  left  our  boats  at  the  [N^oble- 
men’s  landing,  and  were  escorted  by  officers  through  the 
great  gates  of  the  city  wall  into  the  palace  enclosure,  to  the 
new  and  beautiful  “ Maha  Prasaht  Chuck  Pee,”  “ the 
Three-towered  Palace.”  It  is  a magnificent  building  lately 
completed  and  occupied  by  the  king.  It  took  five  days  to 
consecrate  it  with  holy  water  and  the  merit-making  offer- 
ings of  incense,  blessings,  and  benedictions.  These  Bud- 
dhist ceremonies  were  performed  in  the  various  throne- 
halls  and  in  the  royal  .sleeping  apartments.  Some  Buddha 
relics  were  enshrined  in  an  idol,  and  they  bore  aloft 
in  grand  procession  the  royal  white  umbrella.  The 
king  enjoyed  the  orthodox  number  of  baths  in  show- 
(42) 


PEEPS  INTO  PALACES. 


43 


ers  of  consecrated  water,  and  the  putting  off  and  on  of 
royal  attire ; and  after  sitting  on  the  eight  designated 
points  of  the  compass,  finally  ascended  the  gorgeous 
throne,  and  received  anew  the  congratulations  of  his  peo- 
ple. There  was  a distribution  of  new  decorations  to  princes 
and  nobles  ; there  were  feasting  and  music  and  mirth,  and 
the  usual  Siamese  theatricals  for  the  entertainment  of  the 
thronging  multitude. 

The  new  palace  is  a combination  of  European  and  Siam- 
ese architecture,  and  the  roof  is  singularly  beautiful,  with 
its  glazed  tiling  and  highly  ornamental  pagoda  towers.  On 
the  front  wall  is  a large  medallion  portrait  of  the  king,  and 
bronze  elephants  guard  the  royal  entrance.  Going  up  the 
broad  stairway,  past  fluted  pillars,  statuary,  flower-stands, 
and  the  gaily  dressed  Laos  pages,  we  entered  the  waiting- 
room.  The  floor  was  of  black  and  white  marble,  the  furni- 
ture covered  with  maroon  leather  and  stamped  with  the 
royal  seal.  A crystal  chandelier  depended  from  the  centre 
of  the  frescoed  ceiling.  Gas-burners  were  all  about  the 
walls,  and  lighted  up  their  tinted  surface,  and  flashed 
back  from  the  polished  arms  and  armor  hanging  there. 
As  we  tarried,  some  young  princes  entertained  us,  and 
tea  was  served  from  silver  trays  in  cups  of  delicate  china, 
gold-rimmed  and  marked  with  the  king’s  monogram. 
When  ushered  into  the  royal  presence  we  were  intro- 
duced by  Minister  Ilalderman,  and  the  king  shook  hands 
with  each  one.  Then  our  minister  made  a short  address, 
during  which  he  said,  “ These  are  representative  Ameri- 
cans, and  at  home  we  have  fifty  millions  more ! They 
were  good  citizens  there,  and  I assure  you  they  will  be 
true  and  loyal  to  your  Majesty’s  government  here.” 
The  king  requested  Mrs.  Dr.  Bradley,  who  sat  on  his 
left  hand,  the  place  of  honor  in  Siam,  to  tell  us  that  “ he 
was  glad  to  see  us,  and  to  welcome  so  large  a company  to 
his  kingdom,  for  Americans  aided  in  the  prosperity  and 


44 


SIAM. 


advancement  of  liis  realm.  And  altliongli  he  did  not  hold 
to  our  religion,  yet  he  welcomed  ns  as  teachers  of  that 
which  is  wise  and  good.”  Dr.  McGilvary  took  occasion  to 
thank  him  for  his  interest  in  the  Christians  at  Cheung 
]\Iai,  and  his  proclamation  of  religions  liberty  to  the  Laos. 
His  Majesty  replied  that  “ he  wished  to  maintain  the 
principles  of  his  father,  and  to  nj)hold  his  royal  policy.” 
Mrs.  Dr.  Bradley  then  spoke  of  Miss  Campbell,  the 
young  missionary  to  the  Laos,  who  was  drowned  ; and  that 
now  four  other  ladies  were  on  their  way  to  the  north  to 
take  up  the  work,  and  then  added,  “ I believe  Siam  will 
become  a Christian  nation,  and  when  that  glad  day  comes 
I will  be  ready  to  go  home.”  “ I fear,”  said  the  king, 
“ that  will  not  be  for  a long  while  yet.”  She  continued  : 
“We  desire  the  king  and  his  people  to  be  very  happy. 
Eulers  and  their  siibjects  in  Christian  lands  are  much 
happier  because  of  Christianity.”  The  king  laughingly 
rejoined,  “ I think  that  the  Czar  of  Eussia  is  not  so  happy 
as  the  King  of  Siam.” 

The  hall  in  which  the  audience  was  given  is  large  and 
beaTitifully  decorated.  A sort  of  family  gallery  appeared 
on  the  walls  in  the  portraits  of  the  king  and  queen  and  no- 
tables of  former  reigns.  Here  and  there  were  bronze  and 
marble  statues,  flower-stands,  and  lamps.  The  furniture 
was  upholstered  in  pink  silk  brocade,  which  contrasted 
fluely  with  the  gleaming  marble  tables. 

Before  leaving  the  palace,  we  were  requested  by  one  of 
the  princes  to  write  our  names  in  the  king’s  autograph 
album  under  date  of  our  birthdays.  Taking  leave  of  roy- 
alty, we  were  escorted  through  the  dusk  of  evening  to  our 
boats  and  carriages  by  the  royal  guardsmen,  bearing  lighted 
tapers. 

Now  we  will  take  a long  look  backward,  more  than  half 
a century,  and  see  what  an  old  French  bishop  writing  in 
1829  has  to  say  : 


PEEPS  INTO  PALACES. 


45 


“ Tlie  palace  consists  of  many  buildings  suiTOundcd  by  a triple 
■wall.  The  care  of  the  outside  gates  is  confided  to  men.  The 
inner  gates  are  guarded  by  Amazons.  Thase  women  are  not 
I’eckoned  among  the  wives  of  the  king,  but  receive  pay  and 
rations  like  soldiers.  In  the  thii’d  enclosm’e  is  a remarkable 
garden,  and  containing  in  miniature  a representation  of  tlie 
world  as  they  imagine  it  to  be — woods,  mountains,  cultivated 
fields ; a sea  with  islands,  vessels  of  war  and  merchantmen  of 
eveiy  nation;  a city,  a village,  a bazar,  a market  held  by  the 
laches  of  the  palace,  a fortress  with  cannon,  religious  temples, 
manikins  representing  all  the  ditferent  nations  of  the  earth  in 
tlieir  costumes ; all  quadrupeds  and  bh-ds,  and  all  the  rare  trees 
and  plants  they  can  produce.  They  call  it  the  ‘ Garden  of  De- 
lights,’ or  ‘ Terrestrial  Paradise!’  It  is  on  the  model  of  that  at 
Peking. 

“ As  there  are  persons  enclosed  here  who  have  never  seen  the 
world,  and  who  never  will  see  it,  they  have  thus  an  imperfect 
notion  of  what  it  contains.  It  is  illuminated  at  night  by  lamps. 
The  ladies  of  the  harem  retire  to  the  garden  and  amuse  them- 
selves there,  if  they  please,  till  morning.” 

I will  also  let  you  read  some  letters  from  my  friends, 
and  through  them  catch  glimpses  of  what  you  may  nePer 
behold  with  your  natural  eyes  : 

“ It  was  on  one  of  Siam’s  hottest  afternoons  that  we  made 
our  toilets  with  unusual  care,  and  set  out  to  pay  our  respects  to 
Her  Majesty  Somdet  Pranang  Klow,  Queen  Sawang  Wattana 
(‘Radiant  Light’).  As  we  came  into  the  palace  grounds  the 
glare  from  the  white  glitteiang  walls  was  blinding,  and  the  hot 
sanded  walk  almost  bmait  through  our  shoes.  So  we  quickened 
our  steps,  and  passing  around  the  front  of  his  majesty’s  new 
palace,  soon  came  to  the  heavy  gate  that  is  the  entrance  to  the 
little  city  of  thi’ee  thousand  women,  the  harem  of  the  King  of 
Siam. 

“A  number  of  soldiers  on  the  outside,  and  a number  of  wom- 
en on  the  inside  of  this  gate  keep  guard,  and  see  to  it  that  no 
one  enters  without  a royal  permit.  As  our  escoi't  was  in  the 
habit  of  going  daily  at  this  hour  to  give  lessons  in  English  to 
the  queen  and  her  sister,  the  guard  evidently  concluded  tlmt 
she  had  permission  to  take  the  present  visitors  with  her ; so  we 


46 


SIAM. 


spoke  pleasantly  to  the  different  pei’sons  ■who  sat  or  stood  about, 
and,  unchallenged,  passed  into  a walled  city  within  a walled 
city. 

“ The  impression  at  first  was  far  from  pleasant  as  we  passed 
along  the  nai’row  paved  streets,  where  scai’cely  a shi-ub,  or  even 
a green  blade  of  grass  is  to  be  seen;  and  between  the  high  door- 
less and  windowless  walls,  which  are  the  ends  and  not  the 
fronts  of  the  houses.  The  dwellings  seemed  to  be  in  pau-s,  with 
the  fronts  facing  each  other,  and  a gateway  leading  into  a little 
narrow  alley,  which  is  common  to  both  houses. 

“ This  little  city  is  not  without  its  tradespeople,  its  markets  and 
shops.  Apparently  everything  that  native  women  need  to  buy 
can  be  fomid  spread  out  on  the  pavement  for  sale.  In  one  place 
we  noticed  panungs,*  scarfs,  kerchiefs,  and  varioiis  kinds  of 
native  and  foreign  cloth ; in  another  there  were  baskets  of  fruit 
and  vegetables,  beteluut  and  cinleaf  and  tobacco,  and  fui’ther 
on  ba.skets  of  fish  and  buckets  of  rice. 

“On  our  way  we  went  down  one  street  and  up  another; 
turned  a comer  here  and  crossed  a street  there,  tiU  at  last  we 
came  to  a kind  of  open  court-yard,  and  to  the  steps  of  a hand- 
some buddhig,  which  looked  quite  different  from  those  we  had 
passed,  because  it  has  cheerful  windows  and  hospitable-looking 
steps  leading  ujj  to  the  wide-open  doors.  The  com't-yard  is  cov- 
ered with  grass,  and  flower-pots  are  on  the  steps  and  in  the  win- 
dows. Numbera  of  women  were  sitting  on  the  broad  stairway 
and  armmd  the  doors ; they  did  not  rise  as  we  came  near,  but 
simply  gave  themselves  a little  shuffle,  as  if  they  meant  to  make 
room  for  us  to  tlu’ead  our  way  tlu’ough  among  them. 

“ The  first  room  at  the  head  of  the  steps  is  her  majesty's  private 
chai^el,  and  was  all  arranged  for  services.  We  did  not  enter, 
because  the  yellow  priests  in  their  yellow  robes  were  already 
there,  seated,  tailor-fashion,  on  beautiful  divans  covered  with 
yellow  sdk. 

“We  stood  waiting  for  a moment,  when  a messenger  came 
with  an  iiiAntation  from  the  queen  to  go  up  to  her  own  drawing- 
room. We  gladly  timied  and  followed  the  messenger  through 
a wide  hall  to  the  back  of  the  building,  and  then  up  a flight  of 
narrow  winding  stairs,  and,  strange  to  say,  here,  on  the  stairs, 
and  in  that  awkwai’d  place,  we  met  the  queen  and  her  sister  as 


* Siamese  waist-cloths. 


PEEPS  INTO  PALACES. 


47 


they  were  on  their  way  down  to  ^fung  fate  ’ — listen  to  the  Bud- 
dliist  service.  Tlien  and  there  we  were  iirtroduced  to  two  ap- 
parently very  unassuming  young  ladies ; neither  of  them  looked 
to  he  more  than  sixteen  years  of  age,  hut  in  reahty  the  queen 
is  twenty  and  her  sister  eighteen.  In  person  they  are  of  deli- 
cate frame,  and  under  the  medium  height  for  Siamese  women. 
They  are  quite  graceful  and  good-lookhig,  and  so  much  alike 
that  although  I have  seen  them  several  times  since,  I am  never 
sure  that  I know  one  from  the  other. 

“ The  royal  ladies  politely  excused  themselves  and  passed  down 
to  the  chapel,  and  we  were  taken  up  to  a very  pretty,  cheerful 
drawing-room.  Everything  was  handsome  and  in  good  taste, 
rather  than  costly  and  splendid.  The  beautiful  carpet,  chaira, 
sofas,  and  tables,  were  all  of  foreign  make,  and  so  were  the 
mirrore,  pictures,  and  other  ornaments.  Heavy  satin  curtains 
were  looped  up  at  the  sides  of  a doorway  into  another  room, 
and  through  that  half-cmtained  way  we  caught  but  a ghmpse 
of  her  majesty’s  bed-chamber,  with  its  lovely  lace-cuidained  bed, 
and  furniture  to  match  that  in  the  drawing-room.  There  was 
only  one  thing  that  was  truly  Oriental,  and  that  was  the  deport- 
ment of  her  majesty’s  maids  of  honor.  Of  course,  they  are  of 
the  highest  rank  in  the  kingdom;  the  youngest  sister  of  the 
late  king  was  one  of  eight  or  ten  who  were  passing  in  and  out, 
and  seemed  to  be  the  special  favorite.  Some  of  them  remained 
in  the  room  all  the  time  we  were  there,  and  some  came  up  with 
the  queen  from  the  preaching.  But  no  matter  whether  the  queen 
was  in  the  room  or  not,  these  maids  of  honor  (fropped  to  their 
knees  the  moment  they  came  to  the  door,  and  walked  around 
that  way  as  long  as  they  remained  in  her  majesty’s  ai)artments. 
Although  this  custom  has  long  since  been  abolished  in  the  king’s 
presence,  as  the  ladies  of  the  royal  household  are  moi’e  con- 
seiwative,  it  is  stOI  kept  up  in  the  women’s  apartments. 

“ The  religious  services  lasted  perhaps  an  hour,  and  then  the 
queen  came  up,  followed  by  a number  of  young  princesses.  She 
came  into  the  room  very  quietly,  and  took  a chair  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  table  from  where  we  sat,  and  at  once  entered 
into  convereation  in  an  easy,  social  way.  I noticed  that  when 
tlie  court  ladies  who  had  been  to  ' fung  tate  ’ came  in,  the  othei-s 
greeted  them  with  a quiet,  ‘ Bang  songe  boon  hi  ’ (‘  Give  us  a 
share  of  your  merit  ’). 

“The  heir-apparent,  who  is  perhaps  thi’ee  or  four  years  old. 


48 


SIAM. 


•was  soon  brought  in  in  the  arms  of  his  nurse,  and,  of  course,  he 
was  then  the  object  of  attraction.  He  came  and  sat  on  my 
knee,  but  as  his  only  dress  was  what  nature  gave  him,  with 
the  addition  of  a few  gold  ornaments,  I held  him  rather  awk- 
wai’dly,  and  soon  gave  him  back  to  his  nm’se. 

“As  the  queen  was  supposed  to  he  now  ready  and  waiting  for 
her  lesson,  we  took  our  departure,  and  as  gi’acefuUy  as  possible 
bowed  ourselves  backward  out  of  her  presence. 

“We  left  the  palace  feeling  that  we  had  enjoyed  a pleasant 
interview  with  a very  agreeable  but  by  no  means  a powerful 
pei-sonage. 

‘ ‘ On  another  occasion  we  called  at  one  of  the  ordinai’y  houses 
of  this  little  city.  We  turned  fi’om  a narrow  street  into  a gate- 
way, and  found  ouraelves  in  a narrower  alley,  not  particularly 
clean  and  tidy,  with  the  front  door  of  one  house  on  our  right,  and 
that  of  another  on  our  left.  We  could  but  wonder  if  such  near 
neighbors  are  always  good  friends ! On  going  up  the  narrow 
little  steps  and  entering,  we  were  met  by  a number  of  women 
and  girls  all  busy  decking  themselves  out  in  an  unseemly  mix- 
ture of  native  and  foreign  finery.  It  was  a gala  day  with  them, 
one  of  the  rare  occasions  when  they  were  allowed  to  see  the 
king  and  the  other  inhabitants  of  his  palace.  The  only  room 
that  we  saw  was  small  and  dark,  and  just  then  was  in  a state 
of  extreme  confusion;  betel  trays,  spittoons,  open  trunks,  and 
all  manner  of  clothing  were  jumbled  together  over  the  floor. 
Tlie  women  and  girls  were  talking  in  a veiy  loud  tone,  and  evi- 
dently too  much  excited  to  entertain  foreign  visitora ; so  in  a 
short  time  we  bade  them  good-bye,  and  turned  our  steps  home- 
ward once  more  through  the  narrow  streets.” 

The  king  has  several  palaces  situated  in  different  parts 
of  his  realm.  An  old  one  at  Petchaburee,  a newer  one  at 
Ratbnree,  and  one  not  yet  completed  at  Bang  Pa  In,  an 
island  in  the  Chow  Payah,  north  of  Bangkok.  It  was  dur- 
ing a pleasure  trip  to  this  island  that  the  late  queen  was 
accidentally  drowned.  In  a letter  dated,  “ en  route  for 
Cheung  Mai,  December  20, 1882,”  there  is  this  notice  of  the 
new  palace : 

“Last  Friday  we  passed  one  of  the  king’s  summer  resorts, 
where  he  is  having  a palace  built.  Tlie  man  who  is  superin- 


PEEPS  INTO  PALACES. 


49 


tending  the  work  showed  us  through  a part  of  the  house.  It  is 
a beautiful  structure,  and  looks  as  if  it  might  be  the  summer 
residence  of  some  American  millionaire.  It  is  built  of  teak- 
wood,  and  the  outside  painted  in  brown  and  white  bars.  Some 
very  pretty  landscapes  in  water-colors,  and  some  oil  paintings 
adorn  the  walls.  Two  of  the  rooms  are  separated  by  lace  and 
brocatel  curtains,  and  at  one  end  is  a large  bay-window.  The 
chairs  are  cushioned  and  covered  with  old  gold  and  blue  bro- 
caded satin,  and  there  are  several  handsome  French  mirrors. 
The  women’s  apartments  are  in  the  rear  of  the  king’s  palace, 
also  a plain  white  marble  monument  erected  in  honor  of  the  late 
queen.  The  grounds  are  enclosed  by  a neat  fence  and  laid  out 
in  flower-beds.” 

ISTear  this  palace  is  a new  Buddhist  temple  built  in  mod- 
ern style  and  seated  with  pews,  perhaps  the  first  Buddhist 
temple  ever  furnished  with  such  accommodations  for  wor- 
shi2>pers.  Turning  to  an  old  letter,  I read  : 

“ In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  temple,  a handsome  building, 
just  like  a Catholic  church,  without  the  cross  or  the  belfry. 
There  were  stained  glass  windows  and  a foreign  bell,  rung  by  a 
I’ope  from  below.  We  were  told  that  we  could  not  be  admitted 
until  the  priest  who  kept  the  keys  would  return  to  open  the 
temple  for  service  at  nine  o’clock  at  night.  We  therefore  re- 
turned to  our  boat  and  waited.  Soon  the  sw'eet  tones  of  the 
hell  rang  out  over  the  water.  We  did  not  wait  for  the  second 
hell,  not  caring  to  attend  service  at  that  hour,  but  went  up  at 
once,  and  found  the  temple  lighted  with  lamps.  There  were 
fifteen  chandeliers  with  sixty-eight  lamps,  but  only  a few  were 
lighted.  An  image  of  Buddha  was  jjlaced  whei*e  the  pulpit 
would  be  in  a Christian  church,  and  several  small  images  were 
in  niches  along  the  walls  at  each  side.  On  the  left  is  the  king’s 
seat,  and  on  the  right  one  for  the  priest,  who  reads  the  Pali 
services.  The  floor  is  laid  with  black  and  white  marble.  All 
was  kept  very  neat  and  clean. 

“ Tlie  priests  invited  me  to  play  the  organ,  and  finding  it  had 
a crank  I accepted ; and  the  melody  of  a lively  German  march 
echoed  from  the  roof.  I noticed  that  most  of  the  times  it  played 
were  waltzes  and  polkas.” 


3 


50 


S/A3f. 


There  are  no  “ zenanas,”  strictly  speaking,  in  Siam,  and 
even  the  ladies  in  the  royal  harems  are  often  allowed  to  go 
outside  the  walls  and  witness  state  ceremonies.  Of  course, 
they  occupy  retired  positions — often  behind  curtains  or 
screens — and  are  not  allowed  to  mingle  with  other  sjiecta- 
tors.  But  they  are  there,  and  with  ears  and  eyes  take  in 
a great  deal  to  carry  back  to  their  quiet,  monotonous  life 
in  the  palace,  and  to  think  and  chat  about  till  the  next  fete 
day.  They  have  very  little  to  occupy  their  time  ; no  sew- 
ing to  do  ; no  studpng  of  fashion  plates,  or  deciding  which 
“ love  of  a bonnet  ” to  buy.  The  Siamese  costume  has 
been  essentially  the  same  for  centuries,  in  palace  and  in 
hut,  with  only  a difference  in  the  number  of  cloths  pos- 
sessed, and  the  cost  and  texture  of  the  material ; and  one 
garment  often  suffices  for  the  royal  ladies  of  the  harem  even 
as  it  did  for  revellers  in  France  in  the  olden  time. 

In  such  undress  assemblages,  with  sometimes  the  slight 
addition  of  a silken  scarf,  do  the  ladies  of  the  royal  harem 
often  meet.  But  of  late  years  changes  are  busy  even  there, 
and  I have  heard  whispei-s  of  foreign  costumes  which  the 
ladies  have  “ tried  on,”  again  and  again,  to  the  infinite 
amusement  of  all  beholders.  The  day  is  coming  when  they 
will  not  only  order  them  from  England  and  France,  but 
wear  them  afterward  ; and  even  learn  to  ajjpear  in  public, 
that  is,  outside  the  walls  of  their  own  private  palaces, 
dressed  in  more  modern  garments.  A few  of  them  wear 
lovely  dressing  sacques,  ruffled  and  embroidered,  and  silk 
and  satin  jackets  edged  with  costly  lace,  and  fastened  mth 
gold  buttons  and  jewelled  brooches.  They  are  not  so  loaded 
do’vvn  with  gold  chains  and  rings  as  they  used  to  be,  but 
what  they  do  wear  is  more  costly  and  of  delicate  workman- 
ship. Many  Siamese  women  are  jewellers,  and  make  ex- 
quisite articles  of  pure,  beaten  gold,  but  their  setting  of 
jewels  is  stiU  quite  rude. 

Hindoo  and  other  peddlers  often  find  admittance,  and 


PEEPS  INTO  PALACES. 


51 


tempt  the  ladies  to  do  a great  deal  of  shopping  in  their  o-wn 
apartments.  Some  leai-n  to  embroider,  and  do  fancy-work. 
They  make  wax  and  paper  flowers  for  crematories  and 
temple  decorations,  and  the  loveliest  chandeliers,  lambre- 
quins, table-covers,  and  even  curtains  of  lace-work  of  natu- 
ral flowers  threaded  and  netted  in  beautiful  patterns.  When 
one  remembers  that  their  festivals  often  last  for  days  and 
weeks,  we  can  see  that  the  frequent  renewal  of  such  fragile 
ornaments  must  consume  a great  deal  of  time.  Some,  in- 
deed, are  not  above  preparing  fancy  confections,  and  send- 
ing their  slaves  out  to  sell  them.  Others  read  novels,  poetry, 
and  plays,  and  spend  countless  hours  in  gambling.  Some- 
times there  is  a flirtation  with  some  gay  and  reckless  prince 
or  noble  outside.  But  if  discovered  the  penalties  are  very 
severe.  I have  heard  of  both  parties  being  put  to  death. 
The  latest  instance  of  flirting  resulted  in  the  disgrace  of 
both  ; the  flogging  of  the  young  nobleman,  and  banishment 
from  the  capital ; while  the  lady  who  dai'ed  be  faithless  to 
her  faithless  king,  was  condemned  to  wear  chains  and  cut 
grass  for  the  royal  elephants  all  the  rest  of  her  life. 

After  the  king’s  visit  to  Petchaburee  in  1876,  we  were 
on  the  mountain  one  evening,  and  were  admitted  to  the 
empty  palace.  We  were  interested  in  seeing  the  little 
pens  set  apart  for  the  king’s  wives.  They  were  side  by 
side,  and  made  of  teak  boards.  They  were  no  larger  tlnm 
the  state-room  of  a steamer,  and  had  but  one  little  door, 
and  this  opened  into  the  large  room  in  which  they  were  set, 
like  so  many  little  boxes  on  the  floor,  for  the  board  walls 
of  these  stalls  did  not  reach  half-way  to  the  ceiling.  Is  it 
not  dreadful  to  think  that  women,  our  sisters,  are  thus 
crowded  together  like  stalled  cattle,  and  kept  for  the  sinful 
pleasure  of  one  man  ! 

A dear  little  pupil  in  one  of  our  schools  was  telling  me 
of  her  older  sister,  who  was  presented  to  the  king  when  she 
was  fourteen,  and  has  been  in  the  palace  ever  since.  She  has 


52 


SIAM. 


an  annual  gift  from  tlie  royal  treasury  of  some  sixty  dollars, 
and  a slight  monthly  allowance  besides.  Her  father  sends 
her  rice,  and  she  has  some  of  her  other  food  from  the  royal 
kitchen.  It  is  not  tnie  that  these  women  each  have  sepa- 
rate palaces.  They  huddle  together,  sometimes  five  or  six 
in  one  house,  with  their  relatives  and  servants.  Those  of 
higher  rank  may  live  more  retired,  and  they  also  receive 
more  from  the  royal  treasury.  But  many  of  them  are  rich 
in  their  own  right,  and  do  not  depend  upon  the  king  for 
support ; and,  indeed,  they  are  not  responsible  for  their 
presence  in  the  king’s  household,  haHng  had  nothing  to  do 
with  it,  except,  perhaps,  to  consent,  with  a child’s  foolish 
heart,  to  the  flatteries  and  representations  of  their  design- 
ing relatives,  who  in  Siam,  as  in  some  other  lands,  are  always 
anxious  to  get  their  daughters  “married  off,”  not  particu- 
larly caring  what  they  get  them  married  into.  So  we  must 
pity  more  than  we  blame  these  poor,  blind,  helpless  women 
for  living  as  we  find  them. 

They  are  called  “Forbidden  Women,”  because  they  are 
not  allowed  to  go  outside  the  gates  without  permission  from 
the  king  himself,  and  this  privilege  costs  a good  sum,  for 
they  are  in  the  habit  of  “ tipping  ” all  who  attend  them, 
and  these  are  Amazons,  guards,  servants,  and  old  women, 
who  go  and  return  with  the  royal  lady,  or  “ Hang  Harm.” 
I know  of  one  who  went  to  visit  her  djdng  father  and  it 
cost  her  nearly  fifty  dollars,  more  than  half  her  yearly  al- 
lowance. Their  mothers  and  younger  sisters  may  dwell 
with  them  in  the  palace,  and  their  own  children,  though 
they  be  sons,  until  they  are  four  or  five  years  old,  and  then 
they  are  sent  outside  to  the  care  of  relatives  or  royal  nurses. 

Every  year  new  maidens  are  admitted  to  the  privileged 
circle,  and  those  who  are  growing  old,  slipping  up  toward 
twenty-five  or  thirty,  or  have  no  children,  are  invited  to 
take  the  first  step  downward  and  become  attendants  and 
waiting-maids  of  younger  and  brighter  girls.  Thus  at  an 


PEEPING  INTO  PALACES. 


63 


age  when  a trae  and  earnest-hearted  woman  of  the  "West 
has  but  reached  her  full,  ripe  womanhood,  her  sisters  of 
the  East  are  east  ofi  as  old  and  childless,  and  are  become  as 
“ a woman  forsaken  and  grieved  in  spirit,  and  a wife  of 
youth  that  wast  refused.”  And,  saddest  of  all,  they  know 
nothing,  these  poor  palace  women,  of  their  “ Redeemer,  the 
Holy  One  of  Israel ; the  God  of  the  whole  earth,”  whose 
kindnesses  are  everlasting,  and  whose  love  and  mercy  are 
unbounded. 

Oh,  the  cruelty,  the  bitterness,  the  irony  of  such  trans- 
fers ; ’tis  only  because  these  poor  creatures  know  of  no 
other  life  that  they  submit  to  it  with  a sort  of  dmnb  pa- 
tience. 

Almost  my  last  work  before  leaving  Siam,  was  the  prep- 
aration of  a book  entitled  “ Stories  of  Jesus.”  It  was  pub- 
lished in  Bangkok,  and  bound  up  with  illustrations  sent 
from  London.  Through  General  Halderman,  our  United 
States  Minister  to  the  Court  of  Siam,  I presented  twenty 
copies  handsomely  bound  to  the  queen,  and  received  from 
the  king  himself,  a letter  of  acknowledgment  and  thanks 
for  the  gift.  Let  us  hope  that  these  “Stories  of  Jesus” 
may  enter  into  the  hearts  of  the  inmates  of  the  king’s  pal- 
aces, and  thus  proclaim  the  Gospel  to  those  who  are  hidden 
away  from  our  personal  influence,  and  help  brighten  the 
lives  of  some  poor  souls  groping  in  the  darkness  and  gloom 
of  a Buddhist  harem.  It  is  a significant  fact,  in  this  con- 
nection, that  Buddhism  oSers  no  salvation  for  woman.  The 
best  it  can  do  for  her  is  to  hold  out  the  false  hope  that  in 
some  of  her  future  transmigrations,  she  may  be  born  a man  ! 


CHAPTER  YIL 


SOME  KIXGLY  CUSTOMS. 

It  is  a great  deal  of  trouble  to  be  a king,  and  no  doubt 
those  who  wear  the  crown  and  bear  the  royal  sceptre,  often 
long  for  the  quiet  and  liberty  of  the  less  regally  favored 
ones  of  their  realm. 

Just  think,  for  instance,  of  having  one’s  head  shaved  in 
the  preseiaee  of  thousands,  and  ha^ung  to  undergo  various 
baths  and  changes  of  apparel  before  the  very  eyes  of  as- 
sembled rank  and  nobility.  But  such  custom  has  decreed 
to  be  the  fate  of  all  Siamese  monarchs,  and  the  rule  for  past 
centuries  has  been  almost  as  inflexible  as  the  laws  of  the 
Medes  and  Persians. 

The  removal  of  the  topknot  from  the  head  of  a young 
Siamese  prince  marks  the  boundary  between  childhood  and 
manhood,  and  is  accompanied  by  imposing  ceremonies 
which  last  for  days  and  cost  immense  sums  of  money. 
They  affect  even  the  most  remote  provinces,  for  the  gov- 
ernors are  expected  to  grace  the  fete  with  their  presence, 
and  also  bring  gifts  according  to  their  rank  for  the  young 
prince. 

Gaudy  processions  are  one  of  the  chief  features  of  almost 
every  public  Siamese  ceremony,  and  when  the  present  king, 
Chulalangkorn,  whose  name,  by  the  way,  means  “Regal  Top- 
knot  ” or  “ Royal  Hairpin,”  or  something  of  that  kind,  was 
deprived  of  his  forelock,  the  procession  was  unusually  long 
and  magniflcent. 

The  customary  mount  representing  Meru,  which  is  sup- 
(54) 


SOME  KINGL  V CUSTOMS. 


55 


posed  to  uphold  the  heavenly  worlds,  was  constructed  in 
the  palace  gardens.  It  was  formed  into  grottos  and  caves, 
and  ornamented  with  shrubs  and  flowering  plants.  On  the 
summit  was  a graceful  pavilion,  draped  with  costly  cur- 
tains and  glittering  with  gilt  and  tinsel ; at  its  foot  were 
artificial  animals,  among  which  the  white  elephant  and  the 
sacred  white  ox  were  conspicuous. 

On  the  appointed  day  the  prince,  richly  attired  and  loaded 
down  with  the  weight  of  golden  chains  and  shackles  on 
hands  and  feet,  was  borne  in  state,  seated  in  a gilt  and 
jewelled  sedan-chair,  between  a body-gutnd  of  richly-dress- 
ed noblemen.  Before  him  in  the  hands  of  their  bearers 
sparkled  and  flashed  the  gold  umbrellas  and  fans,  and  some 
stately  Brahmins  marched  carrying  golden  vases  filled  with 
pai’ched  rice,  which  they  strewed  to  right  and  left  in  token 
of  plenty.  Following  them  were  Amazons  from  the  “ City 
of  Women,”  and  twelve  maidens  in  cloth-of-gold  ; surround- 
ing three  lovely  gii’ls,  two  of  whom  bore  branches  of  gold 
and  silver  covered  with  bright  leaves  and  flowers,  and  the 
other  a superb  peacock’s  tail  brilliant  with  its  argus  eyes 
and  ever-changing  colors.  Two  young  noblemen  carried 
golden  lotus-shaped  vases,  in  which  nestled  fabulous  birds, 
whose  song  is  said  to  entrance  even  beasts  of  prey.  They 
were  followed  by  troops  of  boys,  their  shoulders  fairly  cov- 
ered with  gold  collars  and  necklaces,  and  others  dressed  as 
Chinese,  Malays,  Hindoos,  and  English  ; the  king’s  Japan- 
ese body-guard,  some  infantry  and  pioneers. 

All  along  the  outside  of  the  line  marched  thousands  of  men 
representing  Buddhist  angels  to  g-uard  the  procession  in  its 
march  through  the  imaginary  forest  to  the  sacred  mountain. 
They  were  frightful-looking  angels  with  their  black  faces, 
hands,  and  feet,  protruding  from  their  conical  caps  and  queer 
gauze  robes.  This  was  but  a part  of  the  cortege.  Behind 
the  prince’s  golden  throne  were  young  girls  bearing  his  be- 
tel-box, spittoon,  fans,  and  swords,  and  others  carrying  the 


56 


SIAM. 


many  golden  vessels  indicative  of  Lis  liigli  and  royal  rank. 
Then  there  were  troops  of  children  in  fanciful  costumes ; 
maids  of  honor ; and  ladies  of  the  harem  crowned  with  gold, 
and  neck,  hands,  and  arms  sparkling  with  jewels  of  great 
worth  and  beauty.  On  and  onward  reached  the  pageant, 
gi'adually  decreasing  in  rank  till  naught  was  left  but  bands 
of  women  representing  different  nationahties,  or  real  cap- 
tives from  all  tributary  provinces,  including  the  Karens  and 
Laos,  and  slaves  of  the  prince. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  there  was  a comic  play  rep- 
resentinof  an  encounter  between  the  king:s  and  chiefs  who 
desired  to  witness  the  august  ceremony,  and  some  hideous 
monsters  riding  on  eagles.  The  king  himself  and  several 
of  the  principal  ministers  of  state  took  part  in  this  drama. 
When  the  inquisitive  chiefs  and  rajahs  were  disposed  of,  the 
king  received  the  prince,  and  setting  him  in  the  place  of 
honor,  the  people  offered  homage.  Then  royal  ladies  con- 
ducted him  down  the  marble  steps  to  a golden  basin  where 
two  maidens  bathed  his  feet  in  pure  water. 

lie  next  proceeded  to  the  Maha  Prasaht,  where  are  de- 
posited the  bone  relies  of  his  royal  ancestors.  In  an  inner 
chamber  of  the  temple  he  was  seated  on  a costly  carpet  be- 
fore an  altar,  upon  which  incense  tapers  slowly  burned,  fill- 
ing the  space  with  their  smoke  and  dull,  heavy  fragrance. 
In  his  hands  were  placed  some  Buddhist  texts  inscribed 
on  a palm-leaf,  and  a ball  of  unspun  thread  which  was  made 
to  encircle  the  sacred  hill,  the  temple,  and  the  head  of  the 
prince  himself ; from  thence  nine  strands  extended  to  the 
altar  and  into  the  hands  of  the  attending  priests. 

It  was  not,  however,  till  the  morning  of  the  third  day, 
that  the  tuft  of  hair  was  severed  from  the  brown  pate. 
This  was  done  in  the  early  morning  amid  the  clang  of 
trumpets  and  blowing  of  conch-shells  ; after  which  he  was 
clad  in  white  and  bathed  in  a fountain  whose  streams  ran 
through  those  sacred  beasts  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 


SOME  KINGL  Y CUSTOMS. 


57 


lie  was  again  arrayed  in  white  silken  robes  and  led  by 
ladies  of  rank  to  the  pavilion  on  the  summit,  where  the 
king  waited  to  bestow  bis  royal  blessing.  With  one  band 
raised  to  heaven  and  the  other  on  the  bowed  bead  of  bis 
son,  be  solemnly  uttered  words  in  Pali,  which  may  be  trans- 
lated thus : 

“ Tliou  who  art  come  out  of  the  pure  waters,  he  thy  offences 
washed  away ! Be  thou  relieved  from  other  hh-ths ! Bear  thou 
in  thy  hosom  the  brightness  of  that  hght  which  shall  lead  thee, 
even  as  it  led  the  sublime  Buddha,  to  Nippon,  at  once  and  for- 
ever ! ” 


Feasting  occupied  the  rest  of  the  morning.  About  noon 
the  prince  took  his  place  between  two  standards  bearing  a 
sort  of  five-storied  tray,  upon  each  of  which  was  arranged 
cooked  rice,  cakes,  fruits,  and  scented  fiour.  A new 
procession  was  formed  which  marched  round  and  round 
the  prince  and  the  standards  nine  times.  Seven  golden 
candlesticks  with  lighted  candles  were  passed  from  one 
princely  hand  to  another  as  they  joined  in  this  mystic  cir- 
cling, and  as  oft  as  they  came  in  front  of  the  enthroned 
prince  they  waved  their  lights  before  him. 

A Brahmin  priest  then  gave  the  royal  lad  a spoonfid  of 
rice  sprinkled  with  coeoanut  milk,  and  then,  anointing  his 
nght  foot  with  oil  and  flour,  exhorted  him  to  be  brave  and 
manly,  and  conduct  himself  well  in  the  battle  of  life. 

This  ended  the  ceremony,  and  while  receiving  the  con- 
gratulations of  relatives  and  friends,  they  poured  at  his  feet 
richest  treasures  of  gold  and  silver  coin.  These  lavish 
gifts  might  almost  aggregate  the  entire  expenditure.  And 
thus,  by  a cunningly  devised  network  of  gi'diig  and  re- 
ceiving, and  mutual  merit-making,  the  whole  kingdom  is 
entangled  in  the  meshes  of  Buddhism  and  self-deception. 

A few  years  later  when  this  same  royal  lad  was  duly 
chosen  to  succeed  his  father,  he  with  the  Grand  Council  of 
3* 


58 


SIAM. 


the  kingdom,  invited  foreign  ladies  and  gentlemen  to  wit- 
ness all  the  ceremonies  of  the  coronation  which  had,  till 
then,  been  accounted  too  sacred  for  any  to  behold  save  a 
select  company  of  princes,  princesses,  and  lords  of  the  land. 
The  coronation  took  place  Isovember  11,  18G8,  as  the 
Brahmin  astrologers  had  decreed  that  was  the  most  pro- 
jjitious  time. 

“It  was  nearly  8 a.m.  when  the  foreign  guests  were  allowed 
to  pass  into  a small  triangular  court,  facing  one  of  the  doors  of 
the  inner  audience  hall.  In  front  of  this  door  was  an  elevated 
platform  richly  gilded,  and  upon  it  there  was  placed  a very  large 
golden  basin ; within  the  basin  was  a golden  three-legged  stool. 
Extending  over  the  platform  was  a beautiful  canopy,  and  above 
the  canopy  towered  the  nine-storied  umbrella,  tapering  in  the 
form  of  a pagoda.  In  the  centre  of  the  canopy  was  a vessel  of 
consecrated  water,  said  to  have  been  prayed  over  nine  times, 
and  pom’ed  through  nine  different  circular  vessels.  This  water 
is  collected  from  the  chief  rivers  of  Siam,  at  a point  above  tidal 
hifluences,  and  is  constantly  kept  in  reservoii-s  near  the  temples 
in  the  capital.  In  the  vessel  was  a tube  or  syphon,  representing 
the  pericarp  of  the  lotus  lily  after  the  petals  have  fallen  off.  At 
a flourish  of  crooked  trumpets,  the  king-elect  descended  from 
the  steps  of  the  hall,  arrayed  in  a simple  waist-cloth  of  white 
mushn,  with  a scarf  of  the  same  material  thro^vn  over  his  shoul- 
ders, and  took  his  seat  upon  the  tripod  in  the  golden  basin.  A 
Brahmin  priest  approached  him  and  offered  some  water  in  a 
golden  lotus-shaped  cup,  into  wliich  he  dipped  his  hand  and 
rubbed  it  over  his  head.  At  this  signal  the  sacred  waters  from 
above  the  canopy  descended  in  a shower-bath  upon  his  person, 
representing  the  Buddhist  angels  raining  blessings  upon  His 
Majesty.  A Buddhist  priest  then  poured  a goblet  of  water  over 
the  king.  Then  came  Brahmin  prie.sts  who  did  the  same. 
Next  came  the  chief  princes,  uncles  of  the  king ; next  two  aged 
princesses,  his  aunts.  The  vessels  lased  by  these  royal  person- 
ages were  beautiful  conch-shells,  rimmed  with  gold.  Then  came 
the  nobles  in  graded  rank,  each  with  a vessel  of  dififei'ent  mate- 
rial: gold,  silver,  china,  and  earthenware.  Then,  last  of  all, 
the  prime  minister  with  a vessel  of  iron.  This  finished  the  royal 
bath,  and  the  yoimg  king  descended  from  the  stool  in  a shiver- 


SOME  KINGL  Y CUSTOMS. 


59 


ing  state,  and  was  divested  of  his  wet  cloths,  and  arrayed  in  re- 
gal robes  embroidered  with  gold  and  studded  with  diamonds. 
In  the  south  end  of  the  coronation  hall  was  an  octagonal  throne, 
Avhose  sides  corresponded  to  the  eight  points  of  the  compass.  He 
firet  seated  himself  on  the  north  side,  passing  roimd  toward  the 
east.  In  front  of  each  side  of  the  throne  was  crouched  a Buddhist 
and  a Brahmin  priest,  who  presented  him  with  a bowl  of  water, 
of  which  he  drank,  and  anointed  his  face.  At  each  side  thy  pro- 
nounced a blessing,  to  which  he  responded  with  a prayer.” 

The  English  Governess‘S  secured  a translation  of  this 
part  of  the  service  from  the  royal  father  of  the  king,  as  it 
had  also  been  a part  of  his  own  coronation. 

Priest. — “Be  thou  learned  in  the  laws  of  nature  and  of  the 
universe.” 

King. — “Imspire  me,  O Thou  who  wert  a law  unto  Thyself.” 

P. — “Be  thou  endowed  with  all  wisdom  and  all  acts  of  in- 
dustry.” 

K. — “ Inspire  me  with  all  knowledge,  O Tliou  the  enhghtened.  ” 

P. — “ Let  mercy  and  truth  be  thy  right  and  left  arms  of  life.” 

K. — “Inspme  me,  O Thou  who  hast  proved  all  truth  and 
mercy.” 

P. — “Let  the  sun,  moon,  and  stai-s  bless  thee.” 

K. — “All  praise  to  Thee,  through  whom  aU  forms  are  con- 
quered.” 

P. — “ Let  the  earth,  air,  and  water  bless  thee.” 

K. — “ Through  the  merit  of  Thee,  O Thou  conqueror  of  death.” 

He  was  then  conducted  to  the  north  end  of  the  hall,  and 
was  seated  upon  another  throne  more  gorgeous  and  beau- 
tiful, and  then  the  insignia  of  royalty  were  presented  to 
him  by  his  uncle.  Prince  Cliowfa  Maha  Mala, 

First  came  the  sword,  then  the  sceptre,  then  two  massive 
gold  chains  which  he  suspended  around  his  shoulders. 
Then  came  the  heavy  gold  crown,  sparkling  with  jewels, 
which  the  king  placed  on  his  own  head,  and  then  at  that 
instant  he  was  proclaimed  Supreme  Sovereign  of  Siam  ! 


* Ml'S.  Leonoweus. 


GO 


SIAM. 


Then  came  tlie  gold  slippers,  the  fan,  the  umbrella,  and 
two  large  rings  set  with  diamonds,  which  he  placed  on  his 
forefingers.  Then  the  different  Siamese  weapons  of  war 
were  presented,  which  he  simply  received  and  handed  back 
to  the  waiting  courtiers.  The  Brahmins  delivered  a short 
address,  to  which  he  briefly  responded. 

"When  the  gifts  were  distributed  by  the  new  king,  the 
foreigners  were  allowed  to  walk  up  to  the  throne  one  by 
one,  and  receive  from  Ilis  Majesty’s  own  hand  the  gold 
and  silver  flowers  which  he  was  pleased  to  give  them.  But 
the  king’s  court,  and  all  the  high  princes  and  nobles,  were 
prostrate  before  him,  and  obliged  to  scramble  for  the  royal 
presents  thrown  among  them  broadcast  by  the  king.  The 
coronation  ceremonies  of  the  second  king  of  Siam  are 
similar  to  those  of  the  first,  except  that  the  Supreme  Euler 
places  the  cro^vn  upon  the  head  of  his  second.  Shortly 
after  the  coronation  a new  king  always  makes  a tour  of  the 
city  walls,  lie  is  borne  outside  on  a kind  of  litter,  seated 
on  a golden  throne,  covered  -svith  a glittering  canopy.  He 
is  arrayed  in  all  the  regal  robes,  and  moves  along  'with  great 
pomp  and  splendor,  and  in  passing  throws  gold  and  silver 
coins  among  his  thronging  subjects.  They  behold  his  face, 
they  see  his  glory,  and  they  bow  down  and  worship  him. 

An  old  tradition  says  that  when  a new  second  king  is 
chosen  he  leaves  the  mansion  which  he  has  occupied  to 
take  possession  of  the  palace  of  his  predecessor.  But  on 
going  to  the  city  he  finds  the  gate  shut,  and  is  obliged  to 
ungird  his  sword  and  scale  the  wall  before  he  and  his 
cortege  can  enter. 

The  following  is  a Siamese  schoolboy’s  description  of  a 
royal  ceremony : 

“ Tliere  is  a curious  ceremony  which  the  Siamese  call 
‘krachat.'*  When  the  King  of  Siam  wishes  to  perfonn  this 


* A kind  of  basket. 


SOME  KINGL  V CUSTOMS. 


61 


he  commands  the  princes  of  the  royal  family  to  make  the  large 
baskets  for  him,  and  they  must  buy  useful  things  to  furnish 
tliem  and  make  them  more  beautiful ; for  example,  rice,  dried 
fish,  peppers,  onions,  garlic,  sugar,  cakes,  sweetmeats,  and  robes 
for  the  priests.  When  they  have  prepared  the  baskets,  they 
carry  them  to  the  place  which  the  officer  has  built,  and  set 
them  up  in  a long  row.  The  places  which  they  build  are 
covered  with  red  and  white  cloth  for  awnings,  to  protect  them 
from  the  sunshine  and  the  rain.  When  all  are  finished  the 
king  goes  to  see  them,  and  signs  the  names  of  the  princes  who 
are  the  o^vners  of  the  large  baskets,  and  then  appoints  a day  to 
let  all  the  people  come  and  look  at  them  in  the  royal  palace. 
The  king  invites  many  priests,  also,  who  are  in  high  rank  to 
the  palace,  for  he  wishes  to  listen  to  the  preaching  for  seven 
days.  "When  the  priests  have  finished  their  preaching,  the 
king  gives  the  presents  to  them.  In  all  these  baskets  are  some 
very  curious  things  to  look  at.  One  was  made  in  the  shape  of 
a cart,  with  two  buffaloes,  which  were  covered  with  tobacco  in- 
stead of  hair,  to  draw  it,  and  the  eyes  of  the  buffaloes  were 
made  of  brass  dippers  that  were  painted  black  and  white.  The 
owner  had  put  many  useful  things  in  the  cart.  Also,  there  was 
the  figure  of  a man  that  was  covered  with  dried  peppers,  and 
wore  spectacles  on  his  nose,  sitting  in  front  of  the  cart.  Another 
was  a tree  basket  that  had  many  useful  things  hanging  along 
its  bi-anches,  such  as  lamps,  augers,  saws,  knives,  handkerchiefs| 
cigars,  and  matches.  One  or  two  contained  automatic  dolls 
running  round  and  roimd,  in  and  out  of  the  small  dooi-s  in  the 
baskets;  and  some  other  baskets  had  dolls  that  were  covered 
with  many  pennies  like  the  savages,  and  large  birds  that  had 
silver  and  copper  coins  instead  of  feather’s,  and  many  more 
curious  things  that  1 caimot  now  remember.  At  night  the  owners 
lighted  a fii’e  round  the  baskets,  and  two  of  them  had  electric 
lamps  that  made  a good  illumination  till  early  in  the  morning. 
Then  they  extinguished  them  all.  But  near  the  end  of  the 
week  the  king  invited  thirty-two  priests  to  come  and  cast  lots 
for  the  baskets,  and  then  he  distributed  them  according  as  the 
priests  drew  lots.  ^Vhen  the  king  had  finished  there  was  a 
great  ceremony  on  the  seventh  day.” 

These  Krachat  festivities  are  of  annual  occurrence.  Last 
yeai'  the  royal  demonstrations  were  of  a pecuharly  interest- 


62 


SIAM. 


ill"  nature,  and  were  connected  with  ancestral  worship. 
They  were  in  lionor  of  the  king’s  great  paternal  grand- 
father, who  reigned  in  peace  and  prosperity  over  this  king- 
dom precisely  the  number  of  years,  months,  and  days  that  the 
illustrious  grandson,  the  present  sovereign,  had  then  reigned. 
Thh-ty  lai'ge  baskets  containing  thank-offerings  for  dis- 
courses delivered,  were  prepared.  They  were  cylindrical 
in  shape,  over  eight  feet  in  diameter  and  more  than  sixteen 
feet  long. 

The  ceremonies  in  honor  of  the  royal  ancestry  of  the 
present  dynasty  began  August  15,  1883.  On  the  eve  of 
this  great  day,  fifty-eight  priests  performed  Buddhist  ser- 
vices and  chants  in  the  throne  hall.  The  following  morn- 
ing they  retmmed  and  breakfasted  at  the  palace,  and  on  that 
day  five  hundred  priests  took  part  in  the  ceremonies  for  the 
benefit  of  the  departed  grandfather.  The  same  afternoon 
there  were  joyous  demonstrations  in  honor  of  the  present 
reign  in  the  throne  hall,  Chakree  Maha  Prasalit.  Here 
thirty-one  priests  chanted  the  praises  of  Buddha,  and  the 
next  morning  they  were  feasted  at  the  palace.  The  follow- 
ing afternoon  burning  tapers  were  passed  round  in  connec- 
tion with  the  ceremonies  of  anointing  the  white  umbrella 
suspended  above  the  royal  throne.  Thirty  Buddhist  ser- 
mons were  read  in  the  next  three  days,  ten  each  day,  and 
each  of  the  readers  received  one  of  the  large  baskets  with 
their  costly  contents.  The  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs 
sent  an  invitation  to  the  Diplomatic  and  Consular  Corps  to 
attend  the  public  audience  at  which  the  princes  and  officials 
in  full  uniform  would  present  their  congratulations  to  the 
king  as  on  his  birthday.  On  that  occasion  General  Ilal- 
derman,  tlie  dean  of  the  Diplomatic  and  Consular  Corps, 
presented  the  following  address : 

“Your  Majesty  : 

“The  Diplomatic  and  Consular  Corps  whose  organ  I am, 
have  especial  pleasme  in  tendering  to  Your  Majesty  on  tliis  ‘ red- 


SOME  KINGL  Y CUSTOMS. 


63 


letter  day’  of  Siam’s  history,  their  warmest  congratulations,  as- 
sociated with  their  best  wishes  for  Your  Majesty’s  continued 
health,  haiiijiness,  and  prosperity,” 

At  noon  and  six  p.m,  of  that  day,  salutes  were  fired  in 
honor  of  the  coincidence. 

The  Kracliat  festival  is  usually  held  in  the  seventh  Siam- 
ese month,  and  the  people  observe  it  in  a much  more  sim- 
ple way  than  obtains  within  the  palace  walls.  It  is  but 
another  of  their  numerous  ways  of  making  merit.  Formerly 
the  poor  scrambled  for  the  food  and  clothing,  but  now  they 
scramble  for  tickets  and  take  whatever  they  call  for.  Some- 
times persons  will  throw  themselves  away  by  putting  their 
name  on  a ticket  and  becoming  the  slave  of  the  fortunate 
grabber.  But  instead  of  serving  they  redeem  themselves, 
and  the  price,  be  it  great  or  small,  is  placed  in  the  hand  of 
their  quondam  master,  and  I have  also  heard  that  if  a 
slave  has  merit  enoiigh  to  thus  secure  the  name  of  their 
master,  their  own  liberty  is  granted  and  their  debts  for- 
given. 

When  persons  of  the  highest  rank  are  ill,  the  king  visits 
them,  and  sends  the  royal  physicians  to  care  for  the  patient. 
If  death  ensue,  the  king  goes  immediately  and  helps  to 
bathe  the  body  and  prepare  it  for  the  urn  in  which  it  rests 
in  state  until  tlffe  cremation,  when  Ilis  Majesty  graces  the  oc- 
casion with  his  presence  and  ignites  the  funeral  pyre.  When 
the  king  dies  all  his  subjects  must  shave  then-  heads  and  put 
on  white  in  token  of  mourning. 


CnAPTER  VIII. 


DISPOSITION  OF  THE  DEAD. 

Siam  is  one  of  tlie  few  lands  where  the  dead  are  cremated 
or  burned.  There  are  many  strange  and  curious  customs 
connected  witli  the  rite  and  the  general  disposition  of  the 
dead.  Those  who  die  a natural  death  may  be  cremated  with- 
out having  been  buried ; but  cholera  victims,  suicides,  those 
who  die  by  accident,  and  mothers  who  perish  in  child-bed 
must  all  be  buried  first ; while  those  who  are  executed  are 
neither  buried  nor  burned,  but  are  thrown  to  the  dogs  and 
the  vultures.  They  are  considered  as  having  lost  all  merit, 
and  even  their  nearest  relatives  will  not  own  the  corpse. 

Little  children  are  often  buried  and  forgotten — that  is, 
the  grave  is  lost — for  they  never  have- headstones  or  monu- 
ments. Sometimes  the  bodies  of  children  are  thrown  into 
the  river  or  sea,  especially  still-born  infants,  as  a punish- 
ment for  having  caused  their  mothers  so  much  trouble  and 
anguish  for  nothing.  The  little  body  is  put  in  a rice-pot, 
and  a plantain  leaf  tied  over  the  mouth,  and  then  set 
afioat.  Such  a craft  went  by  one  day.  The  body  inside 
had  swollen  and  forced  its  head  up  through  the  plantain 
leaf.  The  little  face  looked  too  pitiful  as  it  went  bobbing 
up  and  down  on  the  waves,  hurrying  on  to  the  sea. 

The  Siamese  coffin  is  an  oblong  box,  the  same  width 
from  end  to  end,  and  as  much  as  two  feet  deep.  The 
bottom  is  made  of  slats,  and  there  is  usually  no  lid.  It  is 
papered  inside  and  out,  or  covered  with  white  cloth  and 
gilt  trimmings.  When  it  is  finished  a lighted  wax  taper  is 
fastened  at  each  of  the  four  corners,  and  the  workmen  ask, 
(64) 


DISPOSITION  OF  THE  DEAD. 


65 


“Wliose  coffin  is  this?”  It  is  supposed  to  respond,  “I 
belong  to  the  body  of  the  dead.”  Three  nicks  are  cut  in 
tlie  edge  of  the  box  as  a proof  of  ownership,  and  then  it  is 
taken  to  the  home  of  tlie  dead.  Sometimes  the  tapers  are 
not  lighted  at  all,  and  again  they  are  put  out  almost  imme- 
diately, and  reserv'ed  for  future  use.  All  sorts  of  dece[> 
tions  are  practiced  at  a funeral,  and  every  device  adopted 
to  save  expense,  notwithstanding  the  appearance  of  lavdsh 
expenditure  for  the  dead. 

At  times  the  interment  is  a mere  pretence.  The  grave 
is  dug  and  all  is  made  ready  as  for  a real  funeral.  The 
body  is  bathed,  the  feet  and  hands  bound  together,  and  a 
cord  fastened  round  the  waist.  These  three  cords  are  “ to 
bind  the  ghost  so  it  cannot  return  and  trouble  any  one.” 
Money  is  put  in  the  mouth  to  be  used  on  the  journey  to 
the  next  world,  and  rice,  salt,  and  betel  are  placed  in  the 
coffin,  which  is  lowered  into  the  grave  and  allowed  to 
remain  “ as  long  as  it  takes  to  cook  rice,”  then  it  is  hoisted 
out  and  burned.  They  believe  it  takes  the  soul  seven  days 
to  reach  heaven,  so  prayers  and  services  are  kept  up,  hoping 
thereby  to  help  it  on  the  way.  I heard  a Christian  native 
pray  for  an  old  woman  who  had  been  dead  several  days, 
and  she  seemed  very  much  surprised  when  I spoke  to  her 
about  it,  and  told  her  that  prayers  only  availed  for  the 
living.  It  is  very  hard  for  them  to  rid  themselves  of  all 
the  old  idea?  and  superstitions. 

The  burning-places  are  supposed  to  have  spirit  masters 
called  “ Yi  Talee  ” and  “ Ta  Kala  ” — “ Grandmother  and 
. Grandfather  Cocoanut-shell  ” — and  the  old  custom  was  to 
toss  thirty-three  “ beahs  ” or  little  cowry-shells  on  the 
ground  as  the  price  of  it.  How  that  shells  are  no  longer 
used  as  money,  they  toss  a small  copper  coin  worth  half  a 
cent.  Before  the  burning  the  body  is  carried  to  an  open 
porch,  called  a sala^  in  the  teni])le  grounds,  and  the  people 
gather  about  it.  Buddhist  priests  are  hired  to  recite  the 


66 


SIAM. 


good  deeds  of  the  dead,  to  chant  and  monrn.  "White 
cloths  are  folded  and  laid  upon  the  chest  of  the  corpse, 
which  it  is  supposed  to  give  to  the  priests.  They  go  up 
one  by  one,  and  each  helps  himself  to  a cloth  until  all  are 
gone.  The  chief  mourner,  or  master  of  ceremonies,  also 
distributes  plates,  cups,  and  other  articles  as  he  sees  fit. 
The  body  is  then  taken  to  the  pyre,  and  carried  three 
times  round  the  wood  to  confuse  the  ghost  that  it  may  not 
return  the  way  it  went.  The  body  is  often  placed  face 
downwai’d  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  sph’it.  The  corpse 
is  bathed  by  the  relatives  and  friends  by  pouring  cold 
water  over  it,  and  it  is  then  sprinkled  with  an  odorous 
yellow  powder  called  “ cmnmin.”  This  bathing  and  pow- 
dering are  never  omitted,  even  though  it  is  nothing  but  a 
few  old  bones  they  intend  to  reduce  to  ashes.  A green 
cocoanut  is  opened,  and  the  milk  poured  over  the  remains. 
The  friends  send  up  trays  of  betel  and  tobacco  all  prepared 
for  chewing ; these  are  emptied  into  the  coffin.  The  fire 
is  lighted,  and  is  a signal  for  the  friends  to  come  forward 
with  torches,  tapers,  incense-sticks,  and  fire-crackers ; and 
so  amidst  confusion,  smoke,  and  flame  the  body  is  con- 
sumed. The  clothes  of  the  deceased  are  often  hm-ned,  too, 
but  sometimes  they  are  tossed  back  and  forth  three  times 
through  the  flames  ^vithout  letting  them  fall  to  the  ground, 
to  purify  them,  so  that  they  may  be  worn  by  those  who 
remain.  Many  bodies  are  just  laid  on  the  wood  and  burned 
without  a coffin,  the  vultures  and  crows  circling  overhead, 
watching  and  waiting  for  a morsel ; they  often  get  it,  too, 
for  some,  before  tliey  die,  bequeath  their  flesli  to  the  vul- 
tures and  dogs  as  a last  act  of  merit,  and  it  is  cut  and  torn 
from  the  hones  in  the  presence  of  many  witnesses. 

Those  who  should  be  the  mourners  seldom  shed  a tear, 
or  manifest  the  least  sorrow.  I have  seen  them  go  about 
among  the  crowd,  with  their  shaved  pates  and  white  gar- 
ments, laughing  and  smoking,  drinking  tea,  or  chewing  be- 


DISPOSITION  OF  THE  DEAD. 


67 


tel,  and  telling  of  other  cremations  that  ■n'ere  more  or  less 
“sanook”  (enjoyable)  than  the  present.  "Within  three 
days  after  the  cremation  the  bones  are  gathered  up,  and 
placed  in  an  urn,  or  tied  in  a rag  to  be  kept  as  sacred^ relics, 
and  to  make  merit  over,  just  as  Roman  Catholics  keep  the 
relics  and  bones  of  their  supposed  saints,  and  teach  the  cred- 
ulous to  believe  they  are  sacred. 

What  I have  described  are  the  ordinary  cremations.  Of 
course  the  princes  and  nobles  have  more  imposing  ceremo- 
nies, and  spend  thousands  of  dollars  where  the  poor  spend 
tens.  They  have  theatrical  performances,  puppet  shows, 
and  fireworks  for  days  and  weeks  in  succession.  Some- 
times the  body  is  prayed  over  and  worshipped  for  months, 
as  in  the  case  of  the  late  queen  and  her  child.  They  lay  in 
state  almost  a year,  while  the  Pramane  was  erected  for  the 
cremation  ; and  the  preparatioTis  on  a royal  scale  completed. 
I will  reserve  for  another  chapter  an  account  of  the  royal 
cremation  I witnessed  in  Bangkok  in  1881.  But  I will 
here  insert  a page  or  two  from  one  of  my  old  journals  wi’it- 
ten  in  1875 : 

I have  been  out  through  the  hot  August  sun  to  witness  my 
first  cremation  service.  It  was  held  in  a grove  near  a heathen 
temple,  and  was  honable  enough.  The  body  was  that  of  an  old 
woman  about  niaety-six  years  of  age,  and  had  been  kept  four 
days  without  ice  or  any  preservative.  A fimeral  pyre  was  built 
of  bamboo  poles,  and  ornamented  with  carved  work  made  of  the 
pith  and  soft  layers  of  the  plantain,  and  with  pieces  of  cloth.  It 
was  built  with  square  corners,  and  was  two  stories  high,  the  up- 
per story  being  covered  Avith  earth  to  prevent  its  taking  fire. 
Upon  this  was  pded  about  half  a cord  of  close-fibered  solid  wood, 
that  burns  well,  emitting  great  heat. 

The  people  were  scattei’ed  about  in  groups,  sitting  on  the  gra.ss, 
and  under  bamboo  sheds.  Tliere  were  many  yellow-rebed  priests 
sitting  cross-legged,  and  almost  as  impassive  as  images  of  Bud- 
dha, on  a raised  platfonn  in  a sala  or  open  porch.  The  peojde 
were  busy  laughing  and  talking  and  chewing  betel,  or  smoking 
little  cigarettes  and  di-inking  tea.  After  a gi’eat  deal  of  w^hisper- 


68 


SIAM. 


ing  and  looking  at  us,  tliey  brought  us  a tray  filled  with  little 
cups  of  tea.  This  we  had  to  drink  for  politeness’  sake,  though 
we  took  it  with  but  little  relish.  The  genei-al  appearance  of 
things  reminded  one  of  an  American  camp-meeting,  but  we  saw 
no  Christian  ministers,  and  there  were  no  hymns  nor  prayer’s. 
The  religious  services  were  all  over  before  we  arrived. 

Tlie  body  was  placed  in  a rude  box  face  downward,  and  was 
resting  under  a canopy  far  from  us  on  the  other  .side  of  the 
grounds.  No  one  approached  it  except  the  Buddhist  priests, 
who  marched  by  single  file  and  gazed  upon  it  ‘ ‘ that  they  might 
have  an  opportmnty  to  think  on  death.”  Fires  were  burning 
here  and  there,  at  which  the  joss-sticks  and  torches  were  to  be 
lighted.  Meantime  they  furnished  “lights”  for  numberless 
cigarettes. 

The  only  sign  of  mourning  was  the  newly  shaven  heads  of  the 
relatives.  They  did  not  even  wear  the  white  waist-cloth  wliich 
has  been  the  national  badge  of  mourning  for  past  centuries. 
Presently  the  native  players  struck  up  their  heathenish  music, 
and  fom-  men  who  wanted  to  make  merit  by  the  act,  came  bear- 
ing the  body.  The  box  was  quite  deep.  It  had  no  cover,  and  the 
bottom  was  made  Auth  open  slats  to  admit  the  flames.  It  was 
suspended  by  loops  at  the  corners  from  two  bamhoo  poles  which 
rested  on  the  naked  shoulder’s  of  the  men.  They  marched  slow- 
ly three  times  round  the  pyi’e  and  then  mounted  it  with  their 
burden,  nearly  upsetting  the  whole  affau’  by  their  awkwardness, 
while  some  boys  with  an  eye  to  economy  were  tearing  the  white 
cloth  from  the  sides  of  the  pyi’e.  The  body  was  placed  upon  the 
wood,  a cocoanut  was  opened  and  the  milk  cUr.shed  upon  the 
head  of  the  corpse,  and  then  the  nut  was  divided  and  thrown 
away  that  no  one  else  might  use  it.  Trays  of  betel  and  tobacco 
were  thromi  on  the  body,  and  jrieces  of  wood,  joss-sticks,  and 
incense,  while  whole  bunches  of  fii’e-crackei’s  were  tied  to  the 
comers  of  the  light  raUmg  which  sun’omided  the  enclosure, 
and  set  to  popping.  The  custom,  I have  heard,  is  for  the  neare.st 
relative,  or  chief  moiu’ner,  to  apply  the  first  torch,  but  hei’e  all 
seemed  to  go  pell-mell  with  their  fii’e-bi’ands,  as  though  anxious 
to  have  the  old  lady  burned  as  quickly  as  possible.  I only  saw 
two  that  shed  any  tears,  and  they  wei’e  gi’anddaughtci’S  of  the 
deceased.  The  wood  bm’ned  rapidly,  and  soon  the  whole  pile 
was  enveloped  in  flames  and  smoke.  There  wei’e  two  men  who 
watched  the  fii’e,  and  dashed  water  upon  the  coffin  to  preserve 


DISPOSITION  OF  THE  DEAD. 


69 


it  as  long  as  possible.  In  a Teiy  short  time  they  began  to  punch 
the  body  with  a long  bamboo  pole  to  see  if  it  was  burned.  It 
was  an  awful  sight,  but  we  thought  we  might  never  see  another 
burning,  and  yet  we  wanted  to  know  just  how  the  natives  did 
these  things.  The  fii’e  roared  and  the  flames  leaped  higher  and 
higher.  With  shuddering  we  thought  also  of  the  poor  widows  of 
India,  thousands  of  whom  have  mounted  burning  funeral  pyi’es, 
and  perished  with  the  body  of  their  husband,  rather  than  endure 
the  living  death,  with  its  agony  and  wretchedness,  which  always 
fell  to  the  lot  of  the  mdowed  in  that  dark  and  wicked  land. 

As  we  still  gazed  the  box  burst  open,  and  paid;  of  it  fell  oflF. 
Tlirough  the  flames  and  smoke  appeared  the  white  skull  and 
cheek-bones  and  the  deep  black  sockets  where  the  eyes  had  been. 
They  held  themselves  aloft  as  if  the  head  had  been  thrown  back 
and  the  neck  twisted.  That  gaunt  figure  of  Death  peering  at  us 
from  the  midst  of  the  fire  we  could  endure  no  longer,  especially 
as  the  man  ■with  his  pole  pushed  it  over  again  among  the  burn- 
ing wood.  We  turned  away  in  utter  disgust,  feeling  sure  we 
desired  no  such  cremation  services  for  any  of  our  dear  friends. 
Meanwhile  the  vultures  gathered  on  the  adjoining  trees  or  cir- 
cled about  in  the  sky  overhead.  As  we  walked  home  I could 
not  but  thmk  of  the  quiet,  ijeaceful  graves  in  America  covered 
wdth  grass  and  flowei’S,  in  comparison  with  the  little  jar  of 
charred  bones  they  will  scrape  from  the  ashes,  or  the  little  bun- 
dle of  them  they  ^vill  tie  in  a rag  and  hang  up  in  the  pagoda  or 
temple.  These  bones  will  be  brought  out  occasionally  for  merit- 
making. Tliey  will  be  sprinkled  with  holy  water  and  prayed 
over  by  the  hired  priests,  while  the  relatives  who  have  gathered 
to  pay  then’  respects  to  the  remains,  ■\rill  give  their  attention  to 
the  performers  in  the  lacon  or  theatre,  who  are  always  hhed  to 
be  present. 

Cremation  is  forbidden  by  royal  mandate  during  the 
prevalence  of  cholera.  In  1881-2,  when  it  raged  so  fear- 
fully in  Bangkok,  very  many  of  the  bodies  were  not  even 
buried  or  coffined,  but  were  hurried  away  to  Wat  Sab 
Kate,  “that  garbage  field  of  Buddhism,”  and  piled  up 
within  a walled  enclosure,  resembling  the  Parsee  towers  of 
silence  on  Malaljar  Hill,  Bombay,  strewn  with  quick-lime, 
and  left  to  decompose.  Others  were  rudely  boxed  and 


70 


SIAM. 


piled  ill  open  salas.  They  were  numbered,  and  the 
owner’s  name  registered,  that  when  the  plague  was  over 
the  remains  might  he  claimed  and  burned. 

And — oh,  horrors! — they  tell  that  in  the  former  reign 
portions  of  many  of  the  bodies  of  cholera  victims  were 
put  down  in  salt  pickle,  and  sold  through  the  outside  prov- 
inces as  food.  Those  who  purchased  supposed  it  was  beef 
or  buffalo  meat.  When  the  horrid  traffic  was  exposed  the 
king  had  the  offenders  beheaded,  thus  showing  that  he  was 
just  so  much  better  than  cannibal  kings  who  take  part  in 
such  ghastly  feasts.  This  is  the  only  kind  of  cannibalism 
that  is  ever  practiced  by  the  Siamese,  except  that  a few  of  the 
most  ignorant  and  superstitious  men  eat  the  roasted  liver  of 
such  dead  bodies  as  they  believe  have  been  bewitched,  that 
they  themselves  may  he  forever  proof  against  witchery. 

The  Siamese  believe  that  to  neglect  the  cremation  is  to 
doom  the  dead  to  everlasting  servitude,  and  cut  them  off 
from  all  possibility  of  further  transmigrations  of  the  soul. 
They  believe  in  a monster — a sort  of  god  of  the  nether 
world — having  a human  body  and  a dog’s  head,  and  he  has 
to  sit  ivith  his  feet  in  the  fire.  The  souls  of  those  poor 
mortals  whose  bodies  have  not  been  cremated,  after  death, 
are  his  servants,  and  must  carry  water  over  a long  bridge 
in  wicker  baskets  to  pour  on  his  feet  to  keep  them  from 
being  consumed.  As  soon  as  the  body,  or  bones  even,  are 
burned,  the  soul  is  freed  from  its  bondage  to  him.  They 
say  there  are  times  when  he  has  very  few  attendants  left, 
and  then  he  sends  out  his  army  for  new  recruits.  The 
army  attacks  the  people  as  an  epidemic,  usually  cholera, 
and  they  die  by  thousands.  The  relatives  who  are  left  are 
afraid  to  burn  the  bodies  for  fear  they  themselves  will 
t'len  be  called  upon  to  carry  water  for  the  monster.  They 
think  he  knows  all  their  names  and  places  of  abode.  If  a 
poor  wretch  recovers  from  cholera,  they  say  the  soldiers, 
by  mistake,  caught  the  wrong  person. 


DISPOSITION  OF  THE  DEAD. 


71 


They  know  of  no  real  way  of  escape,  but  this  is  what 
they  try.  The  fearful  ones  agree  to  be  his  relatives.  They 
get  red  and  yellow  strings  from  the  priests,  and  bind  them 
on  neck  and  wrist  and  ankle  for  signs  that  they  belong  to 
the  demon’s  family,  and  should  not  therefore  be  made  his 
slaves.  Then,  too,  they  take  sticks  and  strings  and  make  a 
little  cart,  with  clay  oxen  to  draw  it,  and  a clay  figure  for 
each  member  of  the  family.  Tliese  they  put  in  the  cart, 
with  gifts  and  offerings  of  tobacco,  betel,  fruits,  and 
flowers;  then,  taking  all  away  out  in  the  rice-fields,  they 
send  it  to  the  demon,  figuratively,  with  some  sort  of  a 
ceremony.  But  in  reality  it  is  left  in  the  fields.  The 
birds  or  mice  eat  the  fruit,  the  flowers  wither,  the  little 
images  are  beaten  with  the  rain,  or  crumble  “ dust  to  dust,” 
while  the  sticks  and  strings  remain  longest  as  witnesses  of 
their  ignorance  and  folly. 

Oh,  how  many  refuges  of  lies  man  has  tried  to  make  for 
himself  since  he  turned  his  heart  from  the  living  and  true 
God  ! The  natives  think  we  are  very  cruel  to  bury  our 
dead  friends,  and  then  leave  them  in  the  grave  forever.  Cre- 
mation, to  us  so  horrible,  is  to  them  the  last  service  of  love 
they  can  render  the  departed,  and  it  frees  the  soul  from 
the  thraldom  of  the  body,  and  opens  before  it  a glorious 
future  of  possible  biidhs  in  brighter  and  better  worlds. 

If  we  knew  all  their  superstitions,  their  doubts  and  fears, 
we  could  pity  them  more,  and  would  not  be  so  quick  to 
censure  them  for  not  believing  all  we  tell  them.  It  is  hard 
to  throw  away  all  that  you  have  heard  and  believed  in  your 
past  life,  and  trust  implicitly  in  the  new  things  that  are 
told  you  by  strangers. 


CnAPTER  IX. 


A ROYAL  CEE^IATION. 

Ix  contrast  to  the  scenes  described  in  a former  diapter, 
read  this  account  of  the  cremation  of  Her  late  Majesty  the 
Queen  of  Siam,  and  of  Her  late  Celestial  Highness  the  In- 
fant Princess  Chowfah  Kanabhorn.  It  occurred  in  1881, 
and  is  the  last  burning  I have  witnessed. 

The  proposed  visit  of  the  King  of  Siam  to  the  Hnited 
States  of  America  will  be  remembered  by  many,  and  also 
how  suddenly  that  visit  was  postponed.  A great  sorrow 
fell  Tipon  him  in  the  accidental  death  by  drowning  of  his 
qiieen  and  infant  daiighter  in  the  river  Chow  Payah  in 
May,  1880.  There  was  mourning  in  the  palace  and  sym- 
pathy throughout  the  kingdom.  The  royal  remains  were 
kept  till  March  of  the  following  year,  when  they  were  dis- 
posed of  by  grand  cremation  ceremonies,  which  were  more 
elaborate  and  expensive  than  any  ever  before  known  in 
Siam,  costing,  it  is  said,  a half  million  dollars  or  more. 

The  main  features  of  these  cremations  in  high  life  are 
essentially  the  same  from  generation  to  generation,  because 
everything  is  ordered  to  be  done  “ according  to  the  ancient 
royal  custom.”  The  remains  were  embalmed  and  placed 
in  a sitting  posture  in  urns  prepared  expressly  for  the  pur- 
pose— the  inner  one  of  copper,  the  outer  of  gold,  each  having 
openings  through  which  the  air  could  circulate  and  liquids 
escape.  In  time  bodies  thus  exposed  become  perfectly  dry. 
The  liquids  are  caught  in  large  brass  basins  and  carried  off 
in  procession  from  time  to  time,  and  burned  with  incense 
and  fragrant  woods.  The  ashes  are  then  rolled  into  balls, 
and  borne  with  great  ceremony  to  the  river,  bank  before  a 
(72) 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


'IS 

certain  temple,  and  then  thrown  into  the  water.  These 
nms  were  then  placed  upon  a platform  amid  the  blowing 
of  trumpets  and  conch-shells,  and  other  heathenish  rites. 
Around  them  were  arranged  all  the  rich  and  costly  jewels, 
vessels  of  gold  and  silver,  and  other  precious  things,  in- 
signia of  royalty,  which  had  belonged  to  the  dead  during 
life.  Through  all  the  months  they  sat  in  state  in  their 
golden  urns  upon  the  platform  the  funeral  dirge  was  per- 
formed before  them  morning,  noon,  and  night  of  every 
day,  and  wailing  women  appointed  from  the  palace  came 
in  quartettes  fom-  times  each  day  and  night  to  weep  and 
mourn,  to  sing  the  funeral  hymns  and  chant  the  excellen- 
cies of  the  deceased.  Kelays  of  Buddhist  priests  preached 
every  day,  and  chanted  through  the  night  in  their  sacred 
Pali  language. 

Meantime  the  whole  kingdom  was  astir  with  preparations 
for  the  grand  burning,  and  even  the  foreign  merchants 
sent  orders  to  Europe,  China,  and  America  for  thousands 
of  dollars  worth  of  goods  to  be  used  as  presents,  or  to  be 
sold  to  the  thronging  multitudes.  The  king’s  messengers 
were  dispatched  to  all  the  provinces,  and  to  the  tributary 
states,  making  known  his  wants.  The  people  acknowledge 
his  right  to  everything  he  desires,  and  so  hastened  to  supply 
his  needs,  that  they  might  not  incur  his  royal  displeasure, 
and  also  to  manifest  then’  respect  and  fealty  to  their 
sovereign. 

Long  weary  months  were  consumed  in  gathering  mate- 
rials and  erecting  the  temporary  buildings  considered  nec- 
essary. But  when  all  was  complete  the  effect  was  dazzlingly 
beautiful,  especially  that  of  the  great  central  building  called 
the  Pramane.  It  was  cross-shaped  and  finished  “ after 
the  similitude  of  a palace,”  with  wings  and  pagoda  spires 
and  beautiful  roofs  all  covered  with  gilt  paper,  and  orna- 
ments that  sparkled  and  fiashed  like  gems  in  the  tropical 
sun. 


4 


u 


SIAM. 


Here  is  a more  minute  description,  partly  gathered  from 
the  local  press : 

Tlie  Pramane  buildings  are  located  between  the  first  and  second 
kings’  palaces,  and  are  bounded  by  wide,  pleasant  streets.  On 
one  side  are  twelve  large  and  twelve  small  towers,  from  which 
are  displayed  fireworks  every  night.  There  arc  posts  connected 
with  wires,  and  when  the  king  appears  at  his  pavilion,  men  hold- 
ing in  their  hands  a bunch  of  peacocks’  feathers,  perform  the 
perilous  task  of  walking  these  wires.  All  successful  perform- 
ers are  rewarded  by  the  king.  Here,  too,  are  long  bamboo 
sheds  where  tea,  water,  and  other  refreshments  are  furnished 
to  the  natives  free.  And  on  another  street  halls  are  provid- 
ed where  princes,  nobles,  and  foreigners  are  all  entertained 
at  the  royal  expense.  Tables  are  set,  and  regular  warm  meals 
served  -with  soups,  fish,  meats,  vegetables,  and  all  the  delica- 
cies of  the  season,  including  fruit,  cake,  ice-cream,  lemonade, 
and  even  wines  and  hquors  for  those  who  indulge  m such  hurt- 
ful drinks. 

Beyond  these  halls  and  nearer  the  centre  of  the  grounds  is  an 
elegant  pavilion  covered  with  crimson  cloth,  gilt-edged,  the  cur- 
tains of  which  are  looped  gracefully  to  the  many  pillars.  Tlie 
king  comes  here  every  afternoon  and  meets  his  assembled  cour- 
tiers, and  the  foreign  reiu’esentatives,  and  with  them  witnesses 
the  various  sports  designed  for  entei-tainment,  such  as  men  walk- 
ing on  wire  cords,  the  fencers  and  boxers,  and  contests  with  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  weapons;  the  Chinese,  Siamese,  Peguan,  and  other 
plays  that  are  being  enacted.  While  here  gold  and  silver  coins, 
presents  of  ornaments  and  lottery  tickets  are  scattered  among 
the  crowds,  who  scramble  with  gi’eat  zest,  each  one  anxious  to 
get  the  most.  The  king  personally  makes  presents  of  choice  and 
costly  articles  to  those  in  his  immediate  presence.  The  ceremo- 
nies lasted  eleven  days,  and  the  value  of  gifts  to  spectatois  and 
contestants,  repeated  day  by  day,  is  no  trifling  sum. 

The  enclosure  is  sirrroimded  by  a high  bamboo  wall,  having 
wide  gateways  at  the  east  and  west.  On  each  side  of  the  gates 
are  five  seven-storied  umbrellas;  two  of  them  are  golden,  two 
s’dver,  and  one  crimson.  From  gate  to  gate  there  is  one  con- 
thiuous  roof,  forming  a long  open  hall  all  round  the  inside. 
The  wall  on  the  inner  side  of  this  long  hall  is  painted  with  scenes 
from  the  great  Indian  work  which  has  been  translated  into  Siam- 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


75 


cse  and  is  known  as  the  Eamakien.  Rows  of  lamp-posts  also 
extend  from  gate  to  gate. 

The  enclosed  area  is  covered  with  a thick  mat  of  bamboo  slats 
to  prevent  the  possibUity  of  a muddy  surface  should  hea^-y 
showers  of  rain  fall  duiang  the  ceremonial  days.  From  the 
gates  to  the  central  building,  the  bamboo  slats  are  covered  with 
a softer  mat  of  rattan,  making  a pleasant  path  for  the  bare  feet 
of  the  thousands  who  crowd  the  place.  The  walk  is  also  pro- 
tected by  an  awning. 

The  ascent  to  the  four  wings  of  the  central  building  is  by  six- 
teen steps.  These  steps  are  matted,  and  on  either  end  of  each 
step  stands  a pot  filled  with  beautiful  shrubs  or  flowers.  Tlie 
landing  of  the  second  story  runs  all  round  the  Pramane,  and  is 
bordered  with  lamps  and  flower-pots.  The  ceilings  of  these 
halls  are  beautifully  decorated,  and  from  them  are  suspended 
three  lines  of  five  chandehers  each,  and  between  them  pendant 
flower  ornaments,  looking  so  fi’esh  and  beautiful  that  the  be- 
holder would  hardly  dream  they  were  artificial. 

The  central  spot  formed  by  the  convergence  of  the  four  halls 
has  an  imposing  grand-stand  or  altar.  On  this  are  placed  the 
gold  and  silver  idols,  images  of  Buddha,  and  heirlooms  of  the 
decea.scd,  and  relics  of  their  ancestors.  The  altar  is  suiToimded  by 
a rail,  with  lamps  and  candle-stands,  and  is  decorated  with  pah’s 
of  gold  five-storied  mnbrellas.  On  the  very  top  are  two  appar- 
ently golden  stands,  upon  which  will  be  enthroned  the  royal  re- 
mains intended  for  cremation.  Over  them  hang  seven-storied 
white  umbrellas,  called  Sawatrechat.  These  can  only  hang  over 
images  of  the  Buddlia  or  royal  personages.  The  ceding  above 
the  altar  is  bright  red,  highly  adorned  with  golden  ornaments. 
It  serves  to  bi-ing  out  the  chandeliers,  the  white  sdk  umbrellas, 
and  the  lovely  flowers  vdth  wonderful  effect.  This  central  space 
may  at  any  time  be  closed  from  public  gaze  by  dmAving  the  rich 
curtains  of  cloth-of-gold,  that  are  now  looped  in  gracefrd  folds 
so  as  to  expose  the  costly  ti’ea-sirres  on  the  altar. 

The  walls  of  the  budding  are  covered  with  pretty  paper,  also 
the  great  pdlars  which  support  the  roofs  ; those  beautiful  roofs 
rising  tier  on  tier,  and  c^o^vuing  every  sacred  and  royal  budding 
in  Siam.  We  noticed  many  beautifuUy  worked  mottoes  in  scroll 
wood  frames.  They  were  embroidered  with  black  sdk  floss  on 
white  satin,  and  placed  on  exhibition  by  Lady  Payah  Bashak- 
arawongse.  Some  of  them  are  very  good,  as  witness  the  fol- 


76 


SIAM. 


lowing  ; “Three  things  to  admire— intellectual  power,  dignity, 
cheerfulness.  Tlu-ee  tilings  to  be  prepaixid  for — change,  decay, 
death.  Three  things  to  hate — cruelty,  ignorance,  ingratitude.” 
The  floor  of  the  Pramane  is  covered  vflth  Brussels  cai’pet  of  the 
richest,  brightest  colora. 

lu  one  of  the  king’s  apartments,  roofed  with  red,  are  three 
altars.  The  middle  one  is  to  receive  the  bone  rehcs  of  the  for- 
mer kings  of  Siam.  Over  it  is  suspended  a gorgeous  white  silk 
umbrella,  studded  with  jewels  ; on  the  side-altar  relics  of  emi- 
nent persons,  not  royal,  but  related,  will  be  placed  ; and  on  the 
other  a prominent  iiriest  will  sit,  and  go  through  certain  formal 
i*ehearsals  of  Buddhist  precepts.  Under  this  same  roof  are  rooms 
specially  designed  for  the  king,  and  grandly  decorated  and  fur- 
nished. Many  beautiful  and  costly  pamtings  adorn  the  walls, 
and  brackets  holduig  stuffed  birds,  and  plants,  and  golden  fig- 
ures representing  scenes  from  the  Eamakien.  The  sofas  and 
chairs  are  covered  with  rich  damask,  and  the  floor  with  velvet 
carpet,  ilarble  stands  and  quaintly  caiwed  tables  abound.  The 
doorways  and  openings  are  all  draped  with  black  curtains,  bor- 
dered with  white.  One  door  opens  into  a hall,  filled  with  rich 
and  costly  presents,  which  the  king  himself  will  bestow  ; an- 
other doorway  gives  access  to  a sleeping-chamber,  with  its  regal 
adornments  and  all  the  conveniences  for  rest  and  slumber. 
From  these  apartments  of  the  king  there  is  entrance  to  another 
complete  set  for  the  queen,  and  fmmished  in  the  same  royal 
manner.  The  couches,  bed,  tables,  and  mirrora  are  beautifid 
indeed.  All  the  halls  and  apartments  are  lighted  with  many 
windows,  on  the  leaves  of  which  are  painted  imaginary  beings. 
Hanging  from  the  upper  sill  of  each  window  is  a basket  of  beau- 
tiful artificial  flowers. 

In  the  basement  or  ground  floor  of  the  grand  Pramane  budd- 
ing ai-e  many  rooms,  and  at  each  comer  is  a hall  hi  which  are 
artificial  mountains  and  streams,  and  pots  of  flowera  trailing 
then’  gi'aceful  vines  and  clustera  of  bloom  over  the  wall.  Mir- 
rora  are  so  arranged  as  to  reflect  and  multiply  every  object,  and 
at  night  the  whole  is  illuminated  with  gas.  One  room  repre- 
sents a shop  where  Siamese  theatrical  maslcs  are  made,  and  has 
lifelike  figures  of  the  worlaueu  and  proprietor.  At  another 
place  may  be  seen  a Chinese  mason,  and  his  coolie  handing  him 
mortar  in  a little  basket.  Then  an  earthenware  manufactory, 
where  are  tiles,  bricks,  and  pots  in  all  stages  of  formation,  and 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


77 


completed  articles  exposed  for  sale.  Carpenters,  gilders,  smitlis, 
weavers,  tailors,  and  workmen  of  nearly  every  trade  may  be 
seen.  Some  of  the  figures  are  veiy  sti’iking  and  natural,  and 
display  a good  degree  of  artistic  ability. 

When  all  these  arrangements  were  completed,  tlie  re- 
mains of  the  late  queen  and  princess  were  borne  in  cat- 
afalque and  procession,  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony, 
from  their  temporary  resting-place  in  the  palace  to  the 
Pramane,  where  they  were  placed  upon  the  funeral  pyre. 
It  would  be  impossible  to  estimate  the  number  present  at 
this  imposing  Buddhist  pageant.  All  who  could  be  spared 
from  their  homes  in  a city  of  more  than  five  hundred  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  multitudes  from  all  parts  of  the  king- 
dom who  were  in  the  city  to  honor  the  highly  esteemed 
queen,  were  out.  This  is  the  only  statement  that  can  give  an 
approximate  conception  of  the  vast  numbers  who  crowded 
all  the  streets  of  the  city  converging  to  the  palace  during 
this  (Sabbath)  day  and  night,  the  most  important  time  of  all 
the  ceremonies.  The  attendance  of  foreigners  was  general, 
except  the  American  missionaries  and  the  Roman  Catholic 
priests. 

All  the  Europeans  who  held  official  positions  as  repre- 
sentatives of  their  respective  home  lands,  endeavored  to 
display  to  the  utmost  their  rank  in  the  burdensome  uni- 
forms under  which  they  groaned.  The  heat  was  intense, 
and  the  dust  barely  endurable.  At  10  a.m.  companies  of 
soldiers  dressed  in  blue,  carrying  their  arms  with  fixed  bay- 
onets, advanced  ; these  were  followed  by  lines  of  lictons,  on 
each  side  of  the  street,  holding  bundles  of  rattans.  They 
were  dressed  in  blue,  with  white  hats  and  blue  bands.  Next 
came  companies  of  spearmen,  holding  their  weapons  under 
their  arms,  the  sheathed  spear  pointing  to  the  ground  be- 
hind them,  the  swordsmen  with  their  weapons  in  the  scab- 
bards. These  were  dressed  in  white  coats  and  hats,  and 
had  a band  of  black  crape  on  the  right  arm. 


78 


SIAM. 


His  Hajesty  the  king  now  appeared,  attired  in  mourn- 
ing, seated  in  the  royal  sedan ; he  held  his  black  hat  in  his 
hand,  and  passed  with  uncovered  head  in  recognition  of 
the  respect  shown  him  by  the  standing  group  of  foreign 
gentlemen  and  ladies,  who  bowed  as  he  came  in  sight. 
The  king’s  children,  an  interesting  and  pretty  group,  were 
borne  in  a gilt  palankeen  by  twelve  men,  immediately 
behind  their  royal  father.  These  were  followed  by  a 
regiment  of  soldiers  in  red  jackets,  marching  with  fixed 
bayonets. 

After  the  king  had  passed,  preparations  were  made  to 
clear  the  streets  for  the  real  procession,  the  great  object  of 
attraction  for  the  day.  We  noticed  here  acts  that  merit 
no  other  name  than  brutal  cruelty.  It  was  manifest  that 
all  the  temporary  buildings  lining  each  side  of  the  street 
were  appropriated  for  particular  parties.  The  public  of  all 
nationalities  were  invited  to  attend  and  honor  the  occasion, 
but  were  cautioned  not  to  interrupt  or  in  any  way  impede 
the  procession.  Such  a general  invitation  attracted  im- 
mense crowds,  and,  as  far  as  could  be  observed,  they  meant 
to  be  obedient  to  the  directions  given,  and  the  street  was 
left  free  for  the  procession.  But,  after  the  king  had  passed, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  were  assembled  scores  of 
people  who  pressed  upon  each  other  to  look  at  the  foreign- 
ers, and  to  get  a good  sight  of  what  was  yet  to  come. 
Some  rude  native  officials,  with  rattans,  went  to  this  crowd 
and  began  to  strike  at  the  inoffensive  people,  and  some 
well-dressed  native  women  joined  in  the  merciless  cruelty 
of  beating  them  from  their  elevated  position  with  slats  of 
bamboo.  It  created  a shudder,  and  called  forth  cries  of 
“ Shame ! shame  ! ” from  the  kinder-hearted  foreign  spec- 
tators. It  would  have  been  much  more  reasonable  if  those 
who  seemed  to  be  possessed  of  some  authority  had  indicated 
a less  conspicuous,  but  equally  suitable,  place  of  observation 
f..)!'  these  innocent,  but  well-intentioned  ojilookers. 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


T9 


Soon  tlie  sound  of  slow  and  plaintive  music  was  heard ; 
the  band  came  in  sight,  preceded  bj  an  ensign-bearer.  He 
was  supported  on  either  side  by  tassel-bearers.  All  were 
dressed  in  deep  mouniing,  even  the  dram  was  draped  in 
black.  This  band  was  followed  by  three  companies  of 
soldiers.  The  officers  had  broad  bands  of  black  crape  on 
the  sleeve.  The  soldiers  wore  black  coats  and  white 
trousers.  All  were  barefoot,  and  stepped  slowly  and 
solemnly.  These  were  followed  by  many  companies  in 
black  suits,  with  red  trimmings,  white  hats,  and  light- 
colored  leather  pouches.  The  royal  body-guard  formed  a 
hollow  square  about  the  royal  pavilion,  and  protected  all 
avenues  of  access  to  the  king.  A second  band  approached, 
dressed  in  black,  with  yellow  lacings  and  tufts  in  their 
hats.  They  were  followed  by  companies  in  black,  with 
red  trimmings  and  white  hats,  all  bearing  their  arms  re- 
versed. These  armed  companies  were  forty  minutes  in 
passing,  and  represented  the  military. 

His  Hoyal  Highness  Somdet  Chowfah  Bhanurangsi 
Swang  Wongse  now  made  his  appearance,  and  took  his 
place  with  his  foreign  guests.  He  was  clad  entirely  in 
black.  A band,  dressed  in  white,  now  led  the  naval  force 
of  the  kingdom,  which  consisted  of  many  companies  of 
sailors,  aU  in  white,  except  their  black  badges.  These  were 
followed  by  civilians,  Siamese  ministers,  and  other  high 
state  officials,  in  white  coats,  with  gold  sashes  and  a crape 
badge.  Their  breasts  were  adorned  with  resplendent 
orders,  foreign  and  Siamese.  This  part  of  the  pageant 
was  fifteen  minutes  in  passing. 

An  artificial  rhinoceros  and  lines  of  men,  representing 
celestial  beings,  known  as  Tawadahs  or  Buddhist  angels, 
with  conical  white  hats,  having  one  horn  like  the  unicorn, 
now  filled  the  streets.  Both  beast  and  angels  were  carry- 
ing small  gilt  houses,  filled  with  presents  for  the  priests. 
There  were  native  soldiers  in  the  style  of  old  Siam,  holding 


80 


SIAM. 


flags  and  streamers  of  all  shapes  and  colors ; others  •w'earing 
coats  of  grotesque  designs,  and  hearing  poles,  to  which 
were  attached  long  white  and  yellow  cloths,  also  for  the 
priests.  Others  wore  red  caps  and  jackets,  and  were  draw- 
ing carts,  on  which  were  placed  pretty  httle  gilded  houses, 
full  of  presents. 

Minute  gims  were  now  being  fired,  indicating  that  the 
urned  remains  of  the  queen  and  her  daughter,  a princess 
of  the  highest  possible  grade,  were  being  removed  from 
their  temporary  resting-place  at  Mat  Poh,  to  be  conveyed 
to  the  gorgeous  cremation  building.  They  were  preceded 
by  piles  upon  piles  of  priests’  robes,  borne  upon  men’s 
shoulders,  four  men  to  each  gOt  palankeen.  On  each  side 
of  the  street  were  all  sorts  of  imaginary  beasts,  partly 
human,  and  bearing  the  same  burdens  of  merit-making 
gifts  for  Buddhist  priests.  Some  of  these  creatures  were 
horrible,  and  had  faces  of  many  colors.  After  these  imps 
came  another  band  of  Buddhist  angels  (Tawadahs),  with 
their  white  homed  caps,  each  one  holding  a trident,  the 
tips  of  whose  prongs  were  all  crowned  with  white  lotus 
hlies.  jS^ext  a band  of  drummers,  dressed  in  red,  and  each 
one  striking  his  dmm  with  a mournful  cadence  as  he 
marched.  They  were  followed  by  more  Tawadahs  in 
white ; then  came  bands  of  instramental  music,  and  bearers 
of  the  sacred  five  and  seven  storied  umbrellas,  called  chats, 
signs  of  approaching  royalty. 

The  head-priest’s  elaborately  gilt  and  spired  car,  drawn 
by  men  and  horses,  approached,  surrounded  by  gold  um- 
brellas. Its  windows  and  door  were  hung  with  golden 
curtains.  The  chief-priest,  the  king’s  uncle,  sat  in  state, 
with  open  palm-leaf  book  before  him,  but  passed  by  in 
silence,  followed  by  a train  of  Siamese  mourners  in  white, 
and  with  closely-shaven  heads.  The  second  car  was  drawn 
by  six  horses  and  forty  men.  The  standard  and  umbrella 
beai'ers  were  di’essed  in  green.  A very  near  relative  of  the 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


81 


queen  was  in  this  car.  The  third  car  contained  the  young- 
est brother  of  the  dead  queen.  These  cars  were  very  much 
alike  in  general  appearance  and  accompaniments,  hliimber 
foul*  was  the  car  of  cars,  and  the  greatest  object  of  attrac- 
tion. Its  style  and  costliness  transcended  all  the  others. 
It  was  overlaid  with  pure  gold,  and  set  with  jewels.  It 
contained  the  gold  urn,  sparkling  with  gems,  wliich  held 
the  body  of  Her  late  Celestial  Highness  the  Infant  Princess 
Chowfah  Kanabhorn.  The  car  was  six-storied,  and  gold 
umbrellas  were  placed  round  it,  tier  after  tier.  The  fifth 
car  was  also  six-storied,  costly  and  beautiful,  of  the  same 
material  as  the  preceding  one,  and  held  the  urned  remains 
of  Her  late  Majesty  the  queen.  The  car  of  the  princess 
passed  before  that  of  the  queen,  as  the  child  ranked  higher 
than  the  mother  who  bore  her,  because  her  father  was  king 
and  her  mother  queen  of  Siam,  while  the  queen,  although 
she  had  a kingly  father  and  husband,  was  not  the  daughter 
of  a queen,  but  of  a lady  of  high  rank  in  her  father’s 
harem.  It  was  some  time  after  her  brother  had  taken  her 
to  wife  before  she  was  herself  elevated  to  the  royal  throne. 

A strip  of  silver  cloth,  about  six  inches  wide,  extended 
from  the  high-priest,  through  the  cars  of  the  hving  to 
those  of  the  dead,  where  it  was  placed  in  contact  with  the 
urns.  This  forms,  they  think,  the  mystical  union  between 
the  sacred  Pali  books,  the  livdng  and  the  dead. 

These  cars  were  followed  by  the  sur\’iving  brothers  and 
sisters  and  servants  of  the  deceased  queen.  All  were 
dressed  in  white,  and  had  their  heads  shorn.  There  were 
several  other  cars  in  the  procession,  two  of  them  holding 
what  seemed  to  be  empty  urns,  designed,  doubtless,  for  use 
when  the  cremation  takes  place.  In  another  was  the  fra- 
grant sandal-wood  for  burning  the  corpses.  The  wood  was 
cut  in  short  lengths,  and  the  ends  gilded.  These  cars  were 
followed  by  bearers  of  umbrellas  of  all  colors — green,  yel- 
low, white,  red,  and  blue — and  more  and  more  gifts  for 

4=)! 


82 


SIAM. 


priests,  all  of  tliem  merit-making  offerings,  supposed  to 
benefit  the  dead.  Among  the  gifts  were  numerous  boats 
on  carts  drawn  by  men,  and  figures  of  lions,  tigers,  ele- 
phants, and  fabulous  creatures  never  seen  alive  on  earth,  in 
air,  or  water ; and  every  beast  bore  its  offering  of  yellow 
robes  for  the  priests  of  the  Buddha.  The  procession  now 
stopped,  but  the  street  up  and  down  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach  was  filled  with  the  wonderful  pageant. 

The  consuls  of  the  treaty  powers  and  the  other  foreign 
residents  present  witnessed  all  that  was  transpiring,  and 
had  in  view  the  Pramane  buildings,  the  king’s  pavilion, 
the  soldiers,  the  plays,  and  other  imposing  scenes  that  were 
being  enacted.  The  various  theatrical  troupes  were  in  full 
play ; the  favorite  parts  were  taken  from  the  Bamakien, 
an  Indian  mythological  romance,  to  which  I have  already 
referred.  After  this  all  were  refreshed  with  lunch  at  the 
prince’s  tables. 

At  half-past  two  the  consuls  and  their  suites  and  other 
foreign  visitors  were  allowed  to  enter  the  Pramane,  and 
see  the  placing  of  the  gold  urns  on  their  golden  altars. 
The  piece  of  narrow  silver  cloth-  already  mentioned,  was 
attached  to  the  urns,  and  extended  to  the  fioor  on  either 
side,  and  then  out  the  east  and  west  wings  of  the  building 
to  the  steps,  where  the  ends  rested  on  piles  of  sacred  books. 
These  visitors  were  afterward  conducted  to  the  west  hall  of 
the  grand  Pramane,  and  had  an  audience  "svith  the  king, 
who  gracefully  thanked  them  for  their  attendance,  and  the 
honor  they  had  conferred  in  assisting  him  in  these  last  sad 
tokens  of  respect  to  his  loved  and  departed  ones. 

Buddhist  priests  were  everywhere  more  niunerons  than 
the  army,  counting  all  the  soldiers,  both  military  ;md  naval 
forces.  Tliey  had  swarmed  from  all  parts  of  the  kingdom 
to  chant  prayers  and  recite  moral  lessons,  to  see  the  won- 
derful royal  cremation,  but  principally  to  have  a shai-e  in 
the  spoils. 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


83 


It  used  to  be  the  custom  for  aU  Siamese  mourners  to 
dress  in  white  and  shave  the  head,  but  at  this  time,  in 
imitation  of  Western  ways,  the  king  and  princes  and  many 
others  wore  black  and  did  not  shave.  Others  shaved  and 
wore  white,  but  added  a band  of  black  to  the  sleeve. 

In  the  evening,  near  sundown,  the  second  king  came 
with  his  courtiers  to  the  first  king’s  pavilion,  where  they 
held  a private  audience  or  exchange  of  greetings.  In  a 
few  moments  the  latter  appeared  before  the  assembled  multi- 
riides  and  received  their  salutations.  His  arrival  was  the 
signal  for  activity  ; the  wire  walkers,  the  jugglers,  the  theatre 
actors  all  resumed  their  parts  with  spirit.  In  front  of  the 
king  was  a lion  dance  and  tiger  antics,  represented  by  a 
Hindoo’s  contest  with  a tiger,  which  attacked  him  while 
drawing  water  at  a well.  Soon  two  horsemen  appeared 
and  engaged  in  a game  of  tilting.  Meanwhile,  presents 
were  being  distributed  in  all  directions.  As  night  came  on 
tlrc  king  ignited  a quick  fuse,  which  placed  the  grounds  in 
a blaze  of  light,  and  a large  variety  of  interesting  fireworks 
passed  off  in  succession.  A company  of  men  danced  with 
lotus-flower  lanterns  in  each  hand,  and  others,  representing 
a huge  serpent,  performed  before  the  king.  This  latter  is 
truly  a barbaric  invention.  A jointed  framework  is  made 
in  the  form  of  a huge  serpent,  some  twenty  or  thirty  feet 
long,  covered  with  paper,  and  painted  in  colors  to  look  like 
the  spots  and  scales  of  a snake.  The  mouth  is  set  wide 
open,  and  painted  red,  to  appear  as  frightful  as  possible. 
Lighted  lanterns  are  hung  inside,  and  the  whole  is  ani- 
mated by  men,  who  bear  it  about,  following  as  nearly  as 
possible  the  natural  movements  of  a serpent.  Globe  lan- 
terns, like  balls  of  fire,  roll  about  the  ground,  and  the 
hideous  monster  makes  vain  attempts  to  swallow  them. 

A gi’oup  of  the  royal  children  accompany  the  king  on  all 
these  grand  occasions,  and  receive  much  paternal  attention, 
but  their  mothers  must  all  remain  in  the  background.  The 


84 


SIAM. 


very  queen  wlio  has  been  advanced  to  the  place  of  tlie  dead 
vouian  does  not  appear  in  public  as  sucli  while  she  lives. 
It  is  only  her  dead  body  and  her  bones  that  ai-e  thus  honor- 
ed, and  ])araded  through  the  streets  and  water-ways  of  the 
royal  caj^ital. 

The  ex-regent,  and  ministers  of  state,  and  leading  officials 
are  all  very  gi’acious  in  their  recognition  of  and  attentions  to 
foreigners,  and  they  treat  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  with 
equal  politeness.  It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  com- 
mon people  envy  the  foreigners  who  receive  so  much  re- 
spect and  consideration  wliile  they  are  seemingly  neglected, 
yea  more,  oppressed,  sorely  so,  by  those  of  the  nobihty  who 
are  unscrnpnlous  and  overbearing. 

The  many  repeating  arms  of  modern  invention  may  be 
seen  in  position  to  enforce  good  behavior,  and  make  it  to 
the  interest  of  the  people  to  be  law-abiding,  peaceful,  and 
honest  amid  the  many  temptations  which  the  lavish  display 
of  gold  and  silver  and  jewels  presents.  The  bristling  Gat- 
ling gun,  capable  of  clearing  extensive  ranges,  is  a wonder- 
ful and  logical  pacificator. 

The  king  and  his  court  did  not  retire,  nor  the  immense 
crowd  disperse  till  a very  late  hour.  And  quiet  did  not  set- 
tle upon  the  scene  at  all,  for  hundreds  of  watdimen,  officers, 
and  servants  were  left  on  guard.  Gamblers  were  still  in- 
tent on  their  games,  and  singing  and  laughter  could  be 
heard  through  the  night,  mingled  with  the  chanting  of  the 
Buddhist  priests  in  ditfei’ent  parts  of  the  Pramane. 

I was  present  the  next  day  and  saw  them  lower  the  grand 
altar,  and  remove  from  it  all  costly  and  precious  things. 
The  outer  golden  urns  were  taken  away,  and  the  copper 
ones  covered  by  others  made  of  carved  sandal-wood,  very 
delicate  and  beautiful,  and  festooned  with  garlands  of  fresh 
flowers.  Natural  flowers,  white  and  fragrant,  were  substi- 
tuted for  the  artificial  ones  in  the  dome  above  the  altar,  and 
this  was  surmounted  by  a crown  resplendent  with  gems. 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


85 


Spices  and  fragrant  powders  were  strewn  abont  and  incense- 
sticks  placed  among  the  sandal-wood  under  tbe  urns.  A 
fuse  was  laid  from  the  altar  to  where  the  king  sat  in  state, 
and  when  the  time  had  come  for  “ ofiering  up  the  sacred 
flame,”  he  ignited  the  fuse  with  holy  fire  from  the  palace. 
Soon  all  that  was  left  of  the  dead  queen  and  her  child  was 
enveloped  in  the  devouring  element.  The  princes  and  no- 
bles were  standing  near  with  lighted  wax-candles,  fragrant 
tapers,  and  flowers  of  sandal-wood  in  their  hands.  Each 
stepped  up  and  threw  their  otlering  upon  the  pyre.  There 
was  a flourish  of  trumpets,  the  band  struck  up  a funeral 
dirge,  and  the  wailing  women  commenced  their  awful, 
mournful  lamentations,  but  their  cries  were  soon  hushed. 
Men  stood  by  watching  the  fire  and  dashing  water  upon  it, 
to  prevent  the  flames  from  rising  too  high  and  destroying 
the  Pramane.  The  building  is  never  burned.  They  are 
careful  that  nothin"  is  consumed  but  the  wood  and  the  re- 

O 

mains. 

The  cremation  began  a little  after  six  p.w.  In  the  even- 
ing, after  the  foreigners  and  other  guests  had  dined  at  the 
prince’s  table,  the  king  again  made  liis  appearance  and  the 
usual  presents  and  sports  were  dispensed. 

It  is  the  custom  to  throw  limes  and  hollow  nuts,  with 
silver  coins  and  lottery  tickets  inside,  among  the  crowd, 
and  let  the  people  scramble  for  them  ; but  the  foreigners 
were  waited  upon  by  the  king’s  brother,  Chowfah  Koi, 
who  kindly  placed  the  limes  and  nuts  in  our  hands.  To 
the  foreign  officials,  and  to  those  whom  he  delighted  to 
honor,  the  king  gave  with  his  own  hand  many  beautiful 
and  costly  articles.  Some  friends  of  mine  thus  received 
three  sets  of  mythological  figures  in  gold,  a gold  vase  and 
a gold  bird,  an  elegant  gold  locket  with  the  Siamese  word 
for  “ cremation  ” engraved  on  the  outside,  a silver  tray,  and  a 
black  bag  with  forty  nuts  in  it,  each  containing  a silver  coin, 
while  their  children  drew  a set  of  gold  buttons,  a pretty 


86 


S/AM. 


smoking-cap,  and  otlier  articles  of  beanty  and  wortb.  The 
gifts  drawn  were  almost  infinite  in  their  vai-iety  and  style, 
and  most  of  them  costly.  I saw  jewelled  rings  and  pins, 
gold  and  silver  boxes  and  bottles,  vases,  trays,  cups,  tea- 
pots, goblets,  all  of  silver  and  gold.  I received  a gold  ear 
and  tooth  pick,  encased  like  a pencil,  and  a handsome  little 
castor,  besides  several  silver  coins.  Then  there  were  rooms 
filled  with  gifts  for  the  priests,  bottles,  lamps,  clocks,  tables, 
chairs,  Japanese  and  Chinese  writing-desks  and  cabinets, 
lacquered  and  inlaid  with  pearls ; tea  sets,  trays,  boxes, 
priestly  robes  and  fans,  umbrellas,  shoes,  mats,  teapots, 
lanterns,  and  bags  and  iron  bowls  for  holding  the  rice  and 
fruit  given  them  every  morning.  We  could  not  help 
laughing,  as  we  noticed  among  their  merit-making  gifts, 
patent  oil  stoves  from  America.  The  manufacturers  little 
dreamed  they  would  ever  be  used  in  Siamese  monasteries 
to  make  tea  for  Buddhist  priests. 

The  ceremonies  lasted  over  a week,  and  there  were  rope- 
dancing, jugglery,  pantomime  plays,  side-shows,  theatres, 
feasting,  preaching,  praying,  chanting,  gambling,  and  tilt- 
ing, all  going  on  at  the  same  time  in  the  most  disgusting 
jumble.  The  bodies  were  burned  the  eighth  day.  The 
charred  bones  were  collected  and  put  in  small  golden  urns, 
to  be  kept  by  the  royal  family.  It  is  said  the  present  king 
has  the  bones  of  his  ancestors,  for  several  generations  back, 
preserved  in  this  way ; and  one  day  of  the  ceremonies  these 
old  bones  were  marched  out  in  procession ; also  a reputed 
tooth  of  Buddha.  If  all  the  Buddha’s  reputed  teeth 
are  gemiine,  he  must  have  had  several  sets,  -with  double 
rows  above  and  below.  And  just  here  I may  remark  that 
the  king’s  foreign  physician  says  there  are  enough  of  Bud- 
dha’s bones  in  Bangkok  alone  to  make  two  skeletons ! 

The  next  morning  the  unied  bone  relics  were  placed  on 
state  palankeens,  and  were  conveyed  through  the  west 
gate,  in  procession,  to  the  royal  barges  at  the  priests’  land- 


A ROYAL  CREMATION. 


87 


ing.  The  ashes  were  also  gathered  up  after  the  burning, 
and  I saw  the  procession  of  forty-seven  gaily-decked  boats 
which  accompanied  the  royal  barges  as  they  bore  tliem 
down  the  river  to  the  temple  of  Wat  Yanawarahm,  where 
the  ashes  were  strewn  upon  the  water. 

The  five-storied  altar  was  re-erected  in  the  Pi’amane,  and 
the  hone  relics  were  placed  upon  it  in  a golden  Busahok. 
Some  precious  relics  of  Buddha,  a tooth  perhaps,  and  bone 
relics  of  His  late  Majesty  the  King  Pra-Chanm  Klow,  and 
Her  late  Majesty  the  Queen  Somdet  Pra-Tape  Surindra- 
mat,  and  of  the  Celestial  Princess  Chandra  Monton,  and 
the  statue  of  the  Celestial  Prince  Isiriya  Longkorn,  were 
brought  in  state  from  the  grand  palace  and  placed  in  the 
king’s  pavilion.  Afterward  the  bone  relics  of  Prince  Unu- 
karn  and  Pra  Ong  Hopahug  were  brought  there  also. 

The  ceremonies,  plays,  distribution  of  gifts,  preaching, 
chanting,  and  fireworks  continued  for  three  more  days  and 
nights.  The  principal  pei’formances  in  the  Pramane  were 
recitations  by  tlie  priests  of  portions  of  the  Buddhist  work 
know  as  the  Apbhidharma. 

On  the  morning  of  Marcli  20th  all  the  relics  were  re- 
moved, also  the  precious  things,  and  conveyed  thence  into 
the  palace.  In  time  the  Pramane  building  was  taken  down, 
never  to  be  used  again.  And  thus  ended  the  royal  crema- 
tion of  1881.  It  was  tndy  a gorgeous  affair.  The  king 
outdid  himself  in  lavish  display  and  distribution  of  costly 
gifts.  I do  not  think  Bangkok  ever  witnessed  such  ex- 
travagance before,  and  we  hope  she  never  will  again.  The 
kingdom  cannot  afford  such  expensive  cremations. 


CHAPTER  X. 


THE  SHPKEITE  KIXG  OF  SIAM. 

PrABAT  SoMDET  PrA  PaRAMEXD  I^IaHA  CHrLALAXO 
KORN  Kate  Klow  Chow-te-IIea  is  tlie  liigli  and  honor- 
able title  of  Ilis  Majesty  the  First  King  of  Siam,  ruling  in 
this  good  year  of  our  Lord,  188L  He  \ras  the  ninth  child 
of  his  royal  father,  was  born  under  the  sacred  white 
umbrella,  and  first  saw  the  light  within  the  palace  walls, 
September  21,  1853.  His  father,  the  late  King  Maha 
Mongkut,  had  a very  large  harem,  and  among  the  women 
who  composed  it  were  thirty-five  royal  mothers,  Avho  bore 
him  eighty-four  children,  thirty-five  sons  and  forty-nine 
daughters. 

Of  all  the  young  princes,  Chulalangkorn  had  the  highest 
rank,  and  the  very  night  of  his  father’s  death  he  was 
chosen  by  the  Sanabodee,  the  highest  nobles  of  the  realm, 
to  succeed  his  royal  sire.  Maha  Mongkut  died  October  1, 
1808.  His  body  was  embalmed,  and  he  sat  in  state  till 
]\Iarch,  1870,  when  his  remains  were  cremated  according 
to  all  the  Buddhist  rites  and  ceremonies. 

The  young  king  was  first  crowned  and  ascended  the 
throne  Xoveniber  11,  1868.  Five  years  later,  after  having 
spent  some  twenty-one  days  in  the  Buddhist  priesthood,  he 
was  again  crowned  Xovember  16,  1873.  This  was  neces- 
sary to  comply  with  the  customs  of  the  country.  The  king, 
as  well  as  every  officer  in  the  Government,  must  at  some 
time  iu  their  lives  have  been  a priest ; and  when  a man 
enters  the  priesthood  his  former  life,  with  all  its  social 
honors  and  position,  must  he  renoimced,  even  to  a throne, 
a crown,  and  sceptre,  if  he  have  them.  Therefore,  after 
(88) 


THE  SUPREME  KING  OF  SIAM. 


89 


the  king’s  stay  in  the  monastery,  it  was  necessary  tiiat  he 
be  recrowned,  and  again  invested  with  all  the  appointments 
of  royalty.  This  was  a unique  experience,  as  few  kings 
are  ever  twice  crowned  sovereign  over  the  same  people. 

It  was  during  the  ceremonies  of  his  second  coronation 
that  he  issued  the  manly  proclamation,  abolishing  the  abject 
prostration  of  all  persons  in  the  royal  presence.  When  the 
gorgeous  curtains  of  cloth-of-gold  were  slowly  parted,  the 
king  was  seen  seated  on  the  throne,  dressed  in  royal  robes, 
and  the  ghttering  crown  upon  his  head.  The  princes  and 
nobles  croaiched  before  him  on  all-fours,  bowed  their  heads 
to  the  ground,  and  lifted  their  clasped  hands  in  adoration 
for  the  last  time,  for  after  reading  the  decree  against  that 
most  debasing  custom  they  rose  en  masse^  and  stood  before 
their  sovereign  like  men.  At  that  time,  also,  the  Chula 
Chaum  Klow  Order  was  established,  and  all  who  hav'e  been 
decorated  with  this  Order  are  to  assemble  annually  in  the 
royal  palace,  and  do  homage  to  the  statues  of  the  four  dead 
sovereigns  of  the  present  djmasty. 

The  present  king  is  the  fifth  of  the  dynasty,  and  the 
fortieth  in  succession  since  1350,  when  A^mthia,  the  former 
capital,  was  built.  Bangkok,  the  present  capital,  was 
chosen  in  1782,  and  in  1882  the  king  celebrated  the  cen- 
tennial with  great  pomp  and  ceremony.  It  was  one  of  the 
grandest  events  in  Siamese  history,  and  reflects  unusual 
credit  upon  the  young  king  and  his  nolfies,  from  the  very 
fact  that  they  were  willing  to  break  through  old-established 
customs,  and  attempt  and  carry  through  so  successfully  a 
nin  eteenth-century  celebration . 

In  March,  1872,  the  king  visited  Singapore  and  Batavia, 
and  in  December  of  the  same  year  he  sailed  for  Calcutta. 
These  glimpses  of  the  oaitside  world  gave  him  wider  views 
of  mankind,  and  better  ideas  than  he  could  ever  have  enter- 
tained shut  within  the  boundaries  of  his  own  small  realm. 
In  1880  he  intended  to  visit  Europe  and  the  United  States 


90 


SIAM. 


of  America,  but  the  drowning  of  the  qneen  and  consequent 
sorrow  and  confusion  in  tbe  kingdom  detained  him  here. 

"When  the  sad  news  of  President  Garfield’s  death  reached 
Bangkok  the  flags  of  the  different  foreign  consulates  were 
placed  at  half-mast,  and  up  and  down  the  river,  on  the 
king’s  yacht  Vesatri,  and  the  Siamese  and  foreign  ship- 
ping, similar  evidences  of  impromptu  mourning  were 
visible.  By  the  king’s  command,  three  of  the  royal  princes 
waited  upon  the  American  Cousid-General,  and  exj)ressed 
to  him  His  Majesty’s  great  regret  at  the  death  of  the 
President,  and  his  wann  s\Tnpathy  for  Mrs.  Garfield  and 
family,  as  well  as  for  the  American  nation.  He  has 
recently  shown  the  same  courteous  respect  and  sympathy 
for  Queen  Yictoria  in  her  sorrow  for  the  death  of  her 
youngest  son,  the  late  Duke  of  Albany. 

In  his  early  boyhood  the  King  of  Siam  was  instructed  in 
English  by  l\Irs.  Leonowens,  the  governess  at  his  father’s 
court.  After  the  removal  of  his  topknot  he  was  made  a 
“nane,”  or  novitiate,  at  the  Buddhist  temple  for  a season. 
Afterward  he  was  transferred  to  a separate  palace  of  his 
omi.  Here,  among  other  tutors,  we  find  that  good  old 
man,  IMr.  Chandler,  who,  we  have  no  doubt,  tried  to 
impress  the  heart  and  mind  of  his  princely  pupil  with  the 
hiriiest  and  noblest  truths. 

The  government  of  the  land  is  such  that  it  behooves  the 
princes  and  noblemen  to  secure  as  close  relations  as  pos- 
sible with  the  king.  They,  therefore,  present  their  young 
daughters  to  him  by  scores.  If  pleasing  to  the  king,  they 
are  taken  for  wives ; if  otherwise,  they  remain  in  the 
women’s  department.  It  is  through  these  channels  that 
the  strange  “City  of  AYomen,”  of  which  we  hear  so  much, 
is  supplied  with  inhabitants.  Thus,  nearly  all  the  men  of 
high  rank  are  fathers-in-law  to  the  king.  It  is  said  that  no 
native  woman  in  all  the  realm  is  forbidden  to  the  king 
except  his  mother.  The  queens  are  always  his  own  sisters. 


THE  SUPREME  KING  OF  SIAM. 


91 


The  King  of  Siam  must  be  ranked  among  the  most  hu- 
mane and  liberal  of  heathen  monarchs,  aud  his  government 
is  of  the  mildest  form.  Ilis  father  proclaimed  religious 
liberty  throughout  Siam,  and  the  king  himself  is  the  only 
one  in  Siam  to-day  boimd  to  be  a Buddhist,  for  at  his  coro- 
nation he  vowed  to  uphold  and  support  that  religion. 
After  the  cruel  death  of  the  Laos  martyrs,  the  present  king 
granted  the  same  precious  boon  of  religious  liberty  enjoyed 
in  Siam,  to  all  his  northern  tributary  provinces.  He  has 
ever  proved  himself  a kind  friend  to  the  missionaries,  and 
manifests  his  good-will  and  respect  for  them  in  numberless 
ways.  He  welcomes  them  to  his  kingdom,  and  encourages 
them  in  their  work.  In  a private  audience  granted  to  a 
large  company  of  American  missionaries  in  the  fall  of  1882, 
at  the  new  palace,  I heard  him  praise  them  for  their  good 
works  in  Siam.  Elsewhere  I have  spoken  of  his  generous 
gift  to  the  Girls’  School  Building  in  Petchaburee.  Since 
then  he  has  called  Dr.  S.  G.  McFarland,  one  of  the  oldest 
missionaries,  to  take  charge  of  a royal  school  at  the  capital. 
During  the  cholera  in  1881,  he  had  dispensaries  opened  all 
over  Bangkok,  and  free  medicines  were  distributed  to  the 
poor,  distressed  populace.  After  the  terrible  earthquake  in 
Java  and  among  the  islands  south  of  Singapore,  the  king 
contributed  one  hundred  catties  of  silver  (over  $1,000)  to 
the  relief  of  the  homeless  sirfferers,  aud  his  queen  gave  fifty 
catties  more.  Again  and  again  has  he  helped  to  send  home 
the  wives  and  children  of  Englishmen  in  his  employ,  and 
no  sooner  had  the  son  of  Mrs.  Leonowens  returned  to  Sian\ 
than  the  king  gave  him  Government  employment. 

In  18G2  his  royal  father  established  a mint,  and  flat  sil- 
ver coins  were  issued,  bearing  the  elejfiiant  on  one  side  and 
the  royal  umbrellas  on  the  other ; but  since  Chulalangkorn’s 
accession  to  the  throne  a new  die  has  been  cast,  and  the  coin- 
age now  bears  on  one  side  a fine  profile  portrait  of  the  king. 
The  postage  stamps  bear  the  same  regal  face.  Copper  coins 


92 


SIAM. 


are  also  made  at  the  mint,  which  take  the  place  of  shells  and 
hits  of  lead  of  Old  Siam. 

July,  1883,  was  made  memorable  in  the  history  of  Siam 
by  the  opening  of  telegraphic  communication  with  the  rest 
of  the  world  via  Saigon.  As  far  back  as  I860  the  British 
entered  into  an  agreement  to  connect  Bangkok  ^vith  the 
world  via  Singapore,  but  that  line  is  not  yet  complete.  The 
French,  however,  have  secured  that  boon  to  Siam  through 
their  energy  and  perseverance.  In  that  same  year  a local 
post  was  established  in  the  capital.  The  king  has  since  ex- 
tended it  to  all  important  points,  and  Siam  is  now  entitled 
to,  and  holds  a place  in,  the  great  Postal  Union. 

AVe  hear  that  the  bottom  of  the  letter-boxes  are  made  of 
s;mdal-wood,  to  impart  fragrance  to  the  missives,  and  there- 
by cultivate  a taste  for  letters.  "When  letter-Avriting  be- 
comes common,  a great  reA’olution  will  have  been  effected 
among  the  people.  At  first  the  postal  privileges  of  Bang- 
kok were  very  much  abused  by  eAul-minded  persons  send- 
ing anonymous  letters  in  which  they  even  cirrsed  princes 
and  nobles  in  whose  presence  they  would  not  have  dared  to 
utter  a Avord.  HeaA*y  packages  of  trash  were  also  sent,  and 
the  charges  collected  on  deliA'ery. 

The  houses  in  the  principal  cities,  and  along  the  larger 
rivers,  canals,  and  roadAvays  have  all  been  numbered,  to 
facilitate  the  delivery  of  letters,  and  the  peojde  must  also 
assume  distinctiA’e  names  and  titles.  Isoav  there  is  no  dif- 
ference betAveen  the  names  of  men  or  women,  married  or 
single,  and  it  is  almost  as  hard  to  find  the  owner  of  a letter 
addressed  to  “ Dang  ” as  one  sent  to  “ John  ” in  Aew  Tork 
Avould  be.  Very  neat  postal-cards,  Arith  the  king’s  seal,  are 
also  used  in  Bangkok,  or  “ Ivrung  Tape  ” as  the  natives  call 
their  royal  city. 

The  king  has  an  army  and  a navy,  both  very  small,  of 
course,  and  representing  but  little  fighting  force ; yet  more 
than  she  needs,  for  Siam  is  an  independent  kingdom,  in 


THE  SUPREME  KING  OF  SIAM. 


93 


treaty  relations  with,  most  of  the  great  powers ; and  has 
strength  enough  to  keep  her  tributary  states  in  subjection 
and  power  to  hold  her  own,  unless  France  or  England  con- 
clude to  take  her  under  their  protection,  and  in  such  an 
event  all  her  male  population  eould  not  resist  their  power, 
because  they  are  without  discipline  or  patriotism. 

The  king  has  sent  an  embassy  to  England  and  Europe, 
and  quite  a number  of  Siamese  boys  are  being  educated 
abroad.  He  has  a sort  of  parliament,  called  the  “ Sauabo- 
dee,”  composed  of  the  highest  princes  and  nobles,  who 
meet  in  night  sessions  and  attend  to  affah's  of  state.  The 
country  is  divided  into  fifty-eight  pro\dnces,  the  governors 
of  which  are  appointed  by  the  king  without  regard  to  he- 
reditary descent.  They  are  usually  chosen  from  among 
men  in  and  about  the  capital  to  whom  the  king  wishes  to 
show  some  special  favor.  The  golden  vessels — cups,  gob- 
lets, tea-pot,  spittoon,  etc. — of  which  the  former  governor 
was  so  proud,  revert  at  his  death  to  the  king,  and  are  be- 
stowed upon  the  new  ruler  as  insignia  of  his  office. 

These  fifty-eight  proHnces  are  portioned  out  to  three 
principal  ministers  of  state.  The  Kalahome,  or  Prime  Min- 
ister, has  the  west  and  southwest  provinces,  and  charge  of 
the  army  and  navy.  Puterapie,  or  Minister  of  the  Korth, 
because  his  provinces  lie  there,  has  charge  of  the  habitations 
and  dwellings  of  the  people.  The  Praklang,  or  Lord  of 
the  Treasury,  has  a certain  control  of  the  exchequer,  and  of 
all  foreign  interests  and  trading  vessels ; also  of  the  prov- 
inces of  the  southeast.  The  Laos  states  to  the  north  and 
the  Malay  states  in  the  south,  which  are  tributary  to  the 
king,  ai-e  governed  by  their  own  princes,  whose  titles 
are  confirmed  by  the  king,  and  they  seem  to  be  under  his 
direct  care. 

The  king’s  power  is  almost  absolute.  He  makes  laws 
and  estiiblishes  customs,  which  his  ministers  sanction,  and 
his  people  abide  by  and  suffer.  He  seems  to  think  that 


9i 


SIAM. 


the  land  and  its  inhabitants  are  for  liim  and  him  alone,  and 
his  merit  is  so  great  that  he  deserves  their  service,  their 
property,  and  their  lives.  Therefore,  as  his  subjects  say, 
he  “eats  the  kingdom.”  Taxes  are  very  heavy  and  op- 
pressive, and  often  to  get  money  to  pay  them  the  people 
sell  themselves,  their  wdves  or  children,  into  perpetual 
slavery. 

The  crown  is  not  hereditary  in  a European  sense,  nor  is 
a queen  ever  allowed  to  reign.  In  1829  and  1830  a queen 
mother  acted  as  regent,  until  she  with  her  paramour  con- 
spired against  the  young  king,  her  sou,  and  put  him  to 
death.  She  placed  her  lover  upon  the  throne.  He  only 
reigned  five  mouths,  and  was  assassinated,  and  she  herself 
cast  out.  The  Sanabodee,  or  Koyal  Councillors,  always  se- 
lect the  successor  to  the  throne.  He  must  be  a prince  of 
the  realm,  but  not  necessarily  a son  of  the  dead  ruler. 
Sometimes  the  second  king  is  elevated  to  the  rank'  of  su- 
preme king.  Siam,  Cambodia,  and  Laos  all  have  first  and 
second  kings,  and  there  are  records  of  third  kings  in  several 
of  the  past  reigns.  It  is  not  at  all  strange  that  in  families 
of  from  fifty  to  eighty  sons  there  should  be  several  aspi- 
rants to  the  throne,  each  claiming  an  equal  right  to  the 
sceptre.  W e suppose  they  have  to  note  the  day,  and  the 
hour  even,  when  the  sons  are  born  to  determine  which  are 
the  elder.  The  priests,  who  are  very  good  at  making  up 
stories,  claim  that  the  “Siamese  sovereigns  are  lineal  de- 
scendants of  Buddha,  and  that  the  people  themselves  have 
sprung  from  his  earlier  disciples.  Thus  naler  and  people 
are  alike  interested  in  the  support  of  a religious  system 
which  is  identified  with  their  own  origin.”  One  of  the  king’s 
titles  is  the  “ Lord  Buddha.” 

From  all  that  can  be  learned  the  second  king  is  a very 
expensive  honorary  adjunct  of  Siamese  royalty.  lie  has 
no  responsibility  in  the  Government,  and  no  special  power 
except  among  his  own  personal  adherents.  He  has  a court 


THE  SUPREME  KING  OF  SIAM. 


95 


and  harem  and  all  the  pomp  of  royalty,  one-third  of  the 
revenues  (?),  and  receives  almost  equal  honor  with  the  first 
king.  He  is  a sort  of  shadow,  and  yet  he  is  not  always  a 
true  reflection  of  the  mind  and  purpose  of  his  soverei'm. 
One  can  but  regret  that  the  present  second  king,  a man^of 
varied  knowledge  and  rare  ability,  should  by  his  very  ex- 
altation be  lifted  above  all  power  to  help  and  benefit  his 
countrymen.  He  is  forty-five  years  old,  while  the  first 
king  is  but  thirty.  He  is  the  prince,  George  Washington, 
so  often  mentioned  in  connection  with  his  talented  father, 
the  late  second  king  of  the  former  reign,  who  was  also  a 
full  brother  of  Maha  Hongkut. 

The  King  of  Siam  is  not  so  secluded  as  most  Oriental 
monarchs,  and  yet  he  cannot  go  and  come  at  his  owm  sweet 
will  like  other  men.  He  is  dependent  on  his  princes  and 
nobles  for  nearly  all  the  information  he  receives,  and  of 
course  it  is  colored  more  or  less  by  the  medium  through 
which  it  passes.  There  are  no  independent  vernacular 
newspapers  published  by  natives,  and  the  only  one  in  the 
kingdom  is  edited  by  a foreigner,  who  is  careful  to  praise 
and  flatter  more  than  he  condemns.  Be.sides,  he  cannot 
know  what  is  passing  among  the  natives  as  a Siamese 
could. 

The  king  has  a royal  printing-press  and  a court  journal, 
but  we  hear  of  no  literary  efforts  such  as  distinguished  his 
father.  He  has  made  a few  translations,  among  others  the 
“Arabian  Xights,”  which  his  subjects  read  and  many  of 
them  believe.  His  speeches  read  very  well,  and  it  is  sig- 
nificant that  he  always  closes  them  with  these  words,  “ May 
that  Power  which  is  Supreme  in  the  universe  keep  and 
guard  all  of  you  and  grant  you  all  prosperity  and  bliss.” 
He  has  several  beautiful  palaces  and  a royal  steam  yacht. 
He  has  several  lordly  white  elephants,  with  gorgeous  trap- 
pings, and  many  ordinary  elephants;  Australian  horses, 
with  saddles  and  bridles  of  the  finest  workmanship,  mount- 


9G 


SIAAf. 


eel  'witli  gold  and  silver,  and  some  of  them  set  -with  jewels. 
“ The  saddle  for  the  king  on  state  occasions  is  made  of  the 
finest  white  doeskin,  the  royal  arms  of  Siam  being  worked 
on  the  sides  and  seat  in  heavy  gold  bullion.  The  gold 
mountings,  the  white  leather,  and  the  nch  scarlet  cloth  and 
trimmings  have  a chaste,  yet  magnificently  rich  appear- 
ance. The  state  harness  is  beautifully  mounted  with  silver, 
with  the  royal  crest,  and  surmounted  with  small  figures  of 
elephants  in  gold.  A set  for  the  Queen  of  Siam,  and 
similar  ones  for  the  young  princes,  are  of  quieter,  but 
none  the  less  admirable,  designs.”  He  has  also  some  beau- 
tiful carriages  and  splendid  boats.  "When  the  king,  in  his 
royal  barge,  dressed  in  his  glittering  robes  of  state,  with 
the  jewelled  crown  upon  his  head,  and  followed  by  thou- 
sands in  boats  hardly  less  beautiful,  goes  out  upon  the 
river  to  make  his  annual  temple  visitations,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  gorgeous  and  imposing  scenes  to  be  witnessed  in 
Siam.  The  choicest  things  from  foreign  lands  have  been 
brought  to  furnish  his  palaces — beautiful  pictures,  vases, 
statues,  chandeliers,  carpets,  and  furniture.  His  gold  and 
silver  plate  and  some  of  his  jewels  are  magnificent,  and  he 
is  constantly  adding  to  their  store. 

There  is  no  national  debt,  and  the  royal  vaults  hold  un- 
counted treasure.  “ The  Siamese  are  at  peace  with  all  the 
world.  Their  great  occxipation  is  the  cultivation  of  their 
land  ; their  great  hope  its  dev^elopment.  From  the  king 
down  they  entertain  admiration  and  friendship  for  the 
United  States.  His  Majesty  has  ordered  a huge  block  of 
nativ'e  marble  to  be  cut  and  sent  to  Washington  for  the 
national  Monument.  He  has  also  placed  his  brother, 
Prince  Devawongse,  in  charge  of  the  preparation  of  a 
series  of  articles  and  illustrations  of  Siamese  life  and  people, 
which  he  intends  to  present  to  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment, to  be  placed  in  the  national  Museum.”  He  also  sent 
some  rare  and  costly  things  to  our  Centennial  Exhibition. 


THE  SUPREME  KING  OF  SIAM. 


97 


Chulalangkorn  is  small  and  slightly  built,  with  a pleasant 
face  and  graceful  manner.  lie  is  well  formed,  and  always 
appears  dressed  in  excellent  taste.  The  new  costume  is 
semi-European,  for  although  he  has  adopted  shoes  and 
stockings,  hat,  coat,  and  underwear,  he  still  retains  the 
native  panoong,^^  or  waist-cloth,  which,  I must  own,  is,  when 
neatly  draped,  much  more  graceful  and  comfortable,  too, 
than  the  pantaloons  of  Christendom.  The  jjresent  dynasty 
is  more  progressive  than  any  previous  one,  and  the  now 
reigning  king  is  far  in  advance  of  his  predecessors,  and 
indeed  of  all  his  regal  neighbors,  except  the  Mikado  of 
Japan  ; and  the  nation  is  slowly,  but  surely,  swinging  into 
the  light  of  civilization,  knowledge,  and  true  religion.  God 
bless  the  King  of  Siam,  and  may  his  sons  outshine  even 
their  royal  father. 


5 


CHAPTER  XL 


SIAMESE  LANGUAGE  AXD  LITEEATURE. 

The  Siamese  language  is  neither  full  nor  expressive.  It 
is  a tonal  language,  and  for  that  reason  harder  to  acquire 
than  one  whose  words  must  simply  be  remembered  in 
order  to  be  used.  It  is  monosyllabic  to  a great  extent, 
and  has  five  tones,  some  say  seven.  By  the  aid  of  these 
five  tones  nearly  every  word  that  is  a single  syllable  can 
become  five  distinct  words,  each  cajiable  of  a primitive, 
derivative,  and  figurative  meaning.  In  this  respect  the 
language  has  a striking  resemblance  to  the  Chinese.  Siam- 
ese is  a jargon  made  up  from  the  languages  of  the  neigh- 
boring races.  Chinese,  Cambodian,  Laos,  and  Malay  have 
each  contributed  largely.  Many  words  from  the  Pali  and 
Sanscrit  have  been  introduced  through  the  Buddhist  re- 
ligion, and  it  is  constantly  being  enriched  by  the  adoption 
of  very  many  words  from  the  European  and  other  learned 
languages  capable  of  expressing  truths  in  all  depai'tments 
of  science. 

The  teachings  of  Christian  missionaries  are  giving  new 
meanings  to  old  words,  in  order  to  make  plain  the  divine 
truths  and  doctrines  of  God’s  Holy  Word,  and  they  arc 
sometimes  even  compelled  to  invent  or  compound  words 
to  ex])ress  thoughts  which  have  hitherto  had  no  place  in 
tlie  pagan  mind  and  heart.  It  seems  almost  impossible  to 
apply  any  of  the  known  rules  of  grammar  to  this  language. 
As  a rule,  it  has  no  terminations  to  indicate  case,  tense, 
and  mood,  number,  or  person.  All  these  things  are  to  be 
learned  from  the  context,  tone,  or  gesture. 

In  Siamese,  as  in  all  languages,  there  is  a chaste  and 
(98) 


SIAMESE  LANGUAGE  AND  LITERATURE.  99 


refined  use  of  words  tliat  ought  to  be  employed  by  all 
persons  in  all  places,  witbout  reference  to  the  accidental 
position  of  the  parties  speaking.  There  is  here,  however, 
in  Siam,  a humiliation  which  the  brutally  arrogant  demand 
of  those  whom  they  require  should  honor  them,  and  which 
only  the  helpless  and  oppressed  must  necessarily  yield  : as 
degrading  prostrations,  and  the  use  of  words,  epithets,  and 
phrases  that  exalt  the  tyrant  and  degrade  the  speaker. 
There  is  one  expression  which  I specially  abhor.  It  is, 
“ Pome  Jcrap  tow^’’  or  “ Pome  krap  fa  prabaldP  It 
denotes  the  most  abject  humility,  and  siguifies  that  the 
person  speaking  abases  himself  so  as  to  place  the  hair  of  his 
head,  the  most  sacred  possession  of  his  body,  under  the 
very  soles  of  the  feet  of  the  person  spoken  to. 

In  the  presence  of  royalty,  princes,  and  great  nobles,  the 
commoner  is  expected  to  use  such  expressions  as  belong 
to  what  is  called  the  court  language.  Then  there  are  so- 
called  holy  nouns  and  pronouns  used  only  with  reference 
to  the  king  and  the  Buddha,  and  we,  perforce,  must  use 
them  when  we  speak  of  God  and  Christ,  else  the  Creator  is 
degraded  below  the  level  of  the  creature.  Sometimes, 
even  after  one  has  the  holy  nouns  and  pronouns  all  right, 
you  may  inadvertently  use  a pronoun  in  reference  to  your- 
self which  so  exalts  you  that  the  rest  of  your  speech  ap- 
peal’s as  burlesque. 

The  Siamese  abounds  in  metaphors  and  similitudes,  and 
native  writers  and  speakers  seem  to  pride  themselves  on 
the  volubility  of  their  repetitions,  and  the  multiplication  of 
similes,  and  as  they  have  neither  a Webster  nor  a Worces- 
ter as  a standard,  each  one  spells  to  please  himself.  Two 
or  three  years  of  honest,  conscientious  study  will  furnish 
the  student  with  enouofh  knowledge  of  Siamese  for  all 

c?  O 

ordinary  purposes.  Some  of  our  missionaries  have  been 
able  to  preach  the  first  year,  but  of  course  the  first  efforts 
are  not  supposed  to  have  edified  the  hearers  very  much. 


100 


S/A^f. 


There  is  a laughable  story  of  one  who  was  preaching  to  a 
great  crowd  in  one  of  the  market-places  of  Bangkok.  He 
imagined  he  was  making  a deep  impression  and  so  increased 
in  earnestness  and  rapidity  of  utterance.  The  natives  list- 
ened, as  they  always  will,  believing  there  is  merit  in  the 
mere  fact  of  letting  the  sound  fall  upon  the  ear.  Present- 
ly he  heard  a man  on  the  edge  of  the  crowd  say  : “ He  is  a 
great  talker,  truly,  but  I can’t  make  ont  what  language  he 
uses ! ” And  with  this  flattering  (?)  remark  he  tm*ned  and 
left.  The  disconcerted  speaker  soon  closed  his  remai'ks 
and  departed  likewise. 

IV e have  a comical  old  teacher  of  Siamese  at  Petchaburee, 
who  is  trving  to  learn  English.  The  follo^ving  is  a list  of 
words  which  he  gives  with  their  meanings,  all  in  English  : 
hypocrite  hair.  Flattery:  a good  kind  of  curse- 
word.  'SYkisTcey : sin-water.  Gold:  a very  good  thing. 
Blew : a vdnd-verb.  Kick : a foot-verb.  Bow : a sa- 
lute-verb. Howl:  a dog -verb.  Kiss:  a salute -verb. 
Breach.:  a missionary  - verb.  Hurmur : an  old -man- 
verb.  Fickle:  a boy-verb.  Hop:  a frog-verb.  Liar: 
a bad  adjective  of  boy.  Modesty : a good  adjective  of 
girl.  Fine:  a string-tree.  Cunning:  a good  word  of 
philosophy-man.  Spider:  master  of  the  web.  Daugh- 
ter: a girl-son.  Bullet:  son  of  a gun.  Sponge:  wa- 
ter foam.  Angel:  God’s  boy.  Large:  an  adjective 
of  preacher.  Thin:  a bad  adjective  of  body.  Adul- 
terate: a bad  adjective  of  lying  man.  Admonition: 
word  of  Bible.  Comfort:  word  of  mother  to  crying 
child.” 

When  foreigners  came  to  Siam  they  found  that  the  lan- 
guage had  for  centuries  been  reduced  to  writing.  The 
spoken  and  the  written  language  are  alike,  and  the  written 
and  the  printed  characters  are  the  same.  The  written  lan- 
guage in  Cambodian  characters  is  composed  of  forty-four 
alphabetic  symbols,  or  consonant  letters,  with  seventeen 


SIAMESE  LANGUAGE  AND  LITERATURE.  101 


vowel-points  above  and  below  the  line,  after  tlie  model  of, 
the  ancient  Hebrew.  Tbe  characters  are  written  like  Eng- 
lish from  left  to  right,  and  if  on  ruled  paper  always  below 
the  line.  Tbe  words  are  run  together,  unbroken  by  spaces, 
points,  or  capitals.  The  pages  ai*e  numbered,  and  there  are 
marks  to  denote  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  paragraphs. 
It  is  easy  to  learn  to  read  so  that  the  reader  can  understand, 
but  to  make  it  intelligible  to  others  is  quite  another  matter, 
especially  if  the  hearers  are  natives. 

There  are  various  kinds  of  books.  The  most  elegant  are 
said  to  be  written,  or  rather  engraved,  on  tablets  of  ivory, 
but  I have  never  seen  any  of  those.  Some  are  made  of 
long  strips  of  coarse  paper,  either  white  or  black,  and  folded 
together  something  like  a fan.  These  are  written  with 
gamboge  or  soap-stone  pencil,  which  can  be  erased,  or  with 
the  ordinary  lead-pencil  and  ink.  Others,  mostly  sacred 
books,  are  written  with  a brass  or  iron  style,  on  carefully 
prepared  palm-leaves,  and  rubbed  with  ink  and  oil  to  bring 
out  the  chai’acters.  Sometimes  the  letters  are  gilt,  and  the 
edges  of  the  leaves  are  also  gilt,  or  colored  with  vermilion. 
They  are  placed  in  order  on  strings,  and  when  read  are 
usually  laid  upon  a table  or  cushion,  to  preserve  them,  it  is 
presumed,  from  the  injurious  moisture  of  the  warm  hand, 
or,  more  likely  still,  the  reader  is  too  superstitious  or  indo- 
lent to  hold  them.  The  preparation  and  copying  of  these 
sacred  palm-leaf  books  is  considered  a work  of  great  merit. 
Some  pei-form  the  work  themselves,  others  hire  it  done, 
but  all  derive  merit  from  the  gracious  work.  T\"e  have  lit- 
tle idea  of  the  labor  and  “ passionate  patience  ” required  for 
work  of  this  kind.  "VYe,  with  our  steam-presses  that  multi- 
ply copies  with  the  rapidity  of  thought,  smile  with  grim 
pity  at  the  small  accomplishments  of  years  of  careful  labor. 
What  are  called  the  “ weak  hands  of  delicate  women  ” have 
wielded,  and  are  wielding,  a mighty  power  with  no  greater 
weapon  than  the  stylus  or  pen.  They  work  like  coral 


102 


SIAM. 


builders  in  tlie  deep,  their  lives  soon  over,  and  accomplish- 
ing they  know  not  what,  while  round  about  them  beat  for- 
ever the  mighty  waves  of  God’s  infinite  purposes,  and  with 
them,  and  by  them,  yea,  even  in  spite  of  them.  His  grand 
schemes  are  rounded  and  complete.  It  is  enough  ! Vie 
might  never  have  been,  and  yet  God  has  made  us  immortal 
in  the  midst  of  His  glorious  unfoldings. 

“ In  Japan  there  is  a sect  of  Buddhists  whose  priests 
wear  the  ordinary  dress  and  marry.  Many  of  them  are 
thus  allied  to  the  nobility,  and  even  to  the  royal  family, 
and  the  great  mass  of  people  in  Japan  belong  to  this  sect ; 
but  the  fashionable  religion  of  the  chiefs  is  still  the  system 
of  Sin  Lo,  the  latest  development  of  which  has  been  pre- 
served in  a work  by  a learned  Japanese  woman  of  the 
twelfth  century.”  There  are  old  books  of  poems,  wi'itten 
ages  ago  by  Buddhist  nuns,  which  are  still  preserved  and 
venerated  amonff  the  scriptures  of  the  worshippers  of  the 
Buddha. 

The  noble  ladies  of  Siam  to-day  spend  much  of  their 
time  in  writing,  or  copying  rather,  the  sacred  books  for 
the  Buddhist  temples  and  monasteries.  But  few  of  them 
know  what  they  are  writing,  or  understand  a single  word 
traced  by  their  style.  They  are  blind  devotees,  toiling  in 
the  dark.  Their  work  does  not  enlighten  their  hearts  nor 
open  their  eyes  to  see  the  glorious  things  of  God,  nor  do 
their  pages  prophesy  aught  of  the  future  blessedness  of 
those  whose  sins  have  been  washed  away  in  the  blood  of 
Christ. 

Besides  these  written  books  there  are  now  a great  many 
printed  ones.  Some  have  been  done  by  Siamese  and 
others  l)y  foreigners.  There  has  been  a Government  press 
for  a great  many  years,  and  from  it  used  to  issue  some  very 
strange  articles.  But  the  first  Government  document  ever 
printed  in  Siam  was  April  27,  1839.  Ills  Majesty  Somdet 
Pra  Xaug  Klow,  who  was  then  reigning  king,  had  pub- 


SIAMESE  LANG  UA  GE  AND  LI  TER  A TURE.  103 


lislied  at  the  mission  press  and  put  in  circulation  nine 
thousand  copies  of  a proclamation  against  the  importation 
of  opium.  Thus,  an  old  heathen  king,  nearly  half  a cen- 
tury ago,  tried  to  protect  his  subjects  from  the  direful 
effects  of  that  trade  which  England  still  upholds.  The  first 
Siamese  calendar  appeared  in  1812 ; two  years  before,  the 
first  steamer  anchored  in  the  Gulf ; and  the  first  newspaper 
was  started  in  1841,  not  by  Siamese,  however,  but  by  the 
American  missionaries,  and  the  first  number  was  dated 
“ July  1th.”  At  present  (1885)  there  are  only  four  papers 
in  the  kingdom — the  Daily  Advertiser^  begun  in  1868 ; 
the  Siam  WeeJdy  Advertiser,  which  came  out  a year  later ; 
and  the  “ Sayahm  Samai^"*  a vernacular  paper,  scarcely 
three  years  old.  All  three  are  printed  by  S.  J.  Smith,  of 
Bangkok.  The  royal  printing-office  publishes  a Siamese 
newspaper  once  a week.  The  price  is  $6.60  per  year.  It 
is  a very  small  sheet,  and  contains  httle  besides  court  news. 
Besides  these  the  past  has  seen  almanacs,  calendars,  news- 
papers, and  one  or  two  magazines,  all  short-lived,  for  lack 
of  encouragement  and  financial  support.  In  1871  one  of 
the  princes  began  a Siamese  paper,  called  the  Daruna- 
waliV  It  proposed  to  furnish  both  home  and  foreign 
news,  and  to  be  interested  in  the  arts  and  sciences.  But 
the  paper  was  too  spicy  and  wide-awake  for  Old  Siam,  and 
it  died  at  the  end  of  its  first  year.  The  kingdom  has  not 
advanced  far  enough  yet  for  a free  press.  But,  with  the 
telegraph  and  post-office  in  successful  operation,  there  must 
needs  be  some  more  direct  means  of  communication  with 
the  people,  and  the  newspaper  is  sure  to  come  into  favor 
and  exert  its  mighty  influence  here  as  in  all  enlightened 
lands. 

The  late  king,  Maha  Mongkut,  while  still  a priest  in  the 
temple,  had  a small  press,  and  printed  Buddhist  books, 
quite  a number  of  which  have  been  translated  into  Siamese. 
“ It  was  330  years  after  the  Buddha’s  death  when  the 


S/AM. 


lOi 

Three  Pitalcas  * were  for  the  first  time  reduced  to  Avritinof. 

o 

Before  that  they  were  handed  down'  from  generation  to 
generation  by  Avord  of  mouth.  It  is  very  doubtful  whether 
at  the  time  Guatama  hved  the  ai't  of  AAriting  was  knoAvu  in 
tlie  southern  valley  of  the  Ganges ; hut  the  Buddliists 
believe  that  he  composed  works  Avhich  his  immediate  dis- 
ciples learned  by  heart  in  his  lifetime,  and  thus  handed 
doAvn.” 

Siam  is  supposed  to  have  been  converted  to  Buddhism 
by  monks  from  Ceylon  in  638  a.d.  The  present  Siamese 
know  nothing  of  any  fonner  reh'gion  which  may  have  ob- 
tained among  them,  and  all  are  now  absorbed  in  the  various 
sects  of  the  Buddliist  Church.  It  is  cmlous  to  note  just 
here  that  although  Siam  owes  her  religion  to  Ceylon,  cen- 
turies after  its  introduction  a king  of  that  island  sent  to 
Siam  for  teachers  to  impart  a better  knowledge  of  Buddh- 
ism to  his  OAvn  degenerate  subjects.  At  least  so  says  old 
Siamese  history.  AVhether  the  story  has  any  foundation  in 
fact,  or  is  only  told  to  show  the  superior  merit  of  the  Siam- 
ese Buddhists,  I cannot  tell. 

Pra  Chow  Song  Tam,  a priest-king,  and  the  founder  of 
the  second  dynasty,  who  reigned  from  1603  to  1628,  versi- 
fied the  history  of  the  Buddha  before  his  deification,  and 
later,  during  the  reign  of  the  illustrious  Pra  JTarai,  we 
read  of  an  ambassador  who  was  sent  from  Siam  Avith  a royal 
letter  to  the  court  of  France. 

There  is  a well-written  Siamese  History  extending  from 
A.D.  1351,  almost  to  the  present.  It  begins  Avith  an  absurd 
story  and  tells  of  a wonderful  drum,  which  almost  equalled 
“Alladin’s  lamp,”  and  throughout  there  are  many  signs 
and  wonders  recorded  with  the  utmost  faith,  because  they 
ai’e  believed  in  by  this  superstitious  people  ; yet  aside  from 


* The  Three  Pitakas,  or  Collections,  are  of  the  canonical 
books  of  the  Southern  Buddhists. 


SIAMESE  LANGUAGE  AND  LITERATURE.  105 


all  tills,  the  greater  part  of  the  history  may  be  accepted  as 
reliable. 

There  is  a court  historian  who  chronicles  passing  events. 
They  are  not  made  public,  however,  but  are  laid  away  in 
the  royal  archives.  We  cannot  tell  when,  if  ever,  the  his- 
tory of  the  late  reign  will  be  published,  but  we  know  that 
already  the  name  of  Maha  Mongkut  has  passed  into  his- 
tory, and  all  future  readers  on  Siam  will  know  more  or  less 
of  his  erratic  character.  He  was  quite  a literary  celebrity 
himself,  and  his  fame  has  spread  throughout  the  kingdom. 
He  seemed  anxious  to  prove  himself  pre-eminently  a man 
of  letters.  He  wrote  a great  deal,  both  in  Siamese  and  in- 
different English,  and  we  often  see  quotations  “ from  the 
pen  of  IVIaha  Mongkut.”  He  was  very  arbitrary  and  would 
have  liked  to  have  had  the  world  of  letters  bow  to  his  diction 
and  orthography.  He  ckiimed  to  be  an  authority  in  Sanscrit, 
and  perhaps  did  know  more  of  that  language  than  any  Sia- 
mese now  living.  He  was  a great  admirer  of  Martin  Luther. 
He  set  himself  up  also  as  a reformer  of  the  Buddhist  re- 
ligion, and  revised  many  of  their  sacred  books  to  make 
them  accord  more  with  scientific  facts.  It  is  remarkable 
that  all  false  religions  may  be  improved,  and  made  better 
than  their  originals,  while  the  more  Christianity  reverts  to 
the  original,  the  purer  and  holier  we  find  it. 

Almost  every  wat,  or  Buddhist  monasteiy,  has  a library 
building,  and  it  is  usually  well  stored  with  books  on  religion 
and  medicine.  The  Buddhist  scriptures  are  considered  by 
some  to  be  very  voluminous  indeed,  but  good  authority* 
says  that  by  actual  counting  of  words 

— “ the  Buddhist  scriptures,  including  all  the  repetitions,  and  all 
those  books  which  consist  of  extracts  from  the  others,  contain 
rather  less  than  twice  as  many  words  as  are  found  in  our  Bible ; 
and  a translation  of  them  into  English  would  be  about  four 


* T.  W.  Ehys  Davids. 
6* 


106 


SIAM. 


times  as  long.  The  repetitions,  however,  are  so  numerous,  that 
■without  them  the  Buddhist  Bible  is  probably  even  shorter  than 
om-s.” 

It  is  a mistake  to  consider  all  books  in  Euddliisin  scrip* 
ture,  as  much  so  as  it  -u'ould  be  to  caU  all  Christian  litera- 
ture Bible.  Many  of  the  sacred  books  of  the  Southern 
Buddhists  have  been  ti-anslated  into  Siamese.  Others  are- 
tbe  Pali  or  Sanscrit  text  in  Siamese  characters,  •which  the 
priests  in  the  temples  learn  to  read  by  rote.  Indeed,  some 
can  repeat  chapters  and  whole  books,  'without  knowing  the 
meaning  of  one-quarter  of  the  words.  And  these  “vain 
repetitions  of  the  heathen  ” are  the  “ much  speaking  ” so 
highly  censured  in  our  Bible.  One  has  to  live  for  a time 
among  Oriental  heathens  to  properly  understand  that 
grandest  of  books.  The  ignorance  of  the  priests  was  not 
unknown  to  Maha  Mongkut,  a priest-king,  who  spent  no 
less  than  a quarter  of  a century  of  his  eventful  life  in  a 
monastery.  He  once  called  the  Siamese  priests  “ ignorant 
and  blind  leaders  and  dunces.” 

His  Highness  Mour  Eochodey  went  with  an  embassy  to 
France  and  England,  and  wrote  an  account  of  the  voyage 
and  their  reception  at  the  foreign  courts,  which  has  been 
read  with  pleasure  by  thousands  since.  He  died  in  1867. 
There  are  also  histories  of  Cambodia,  Pegu,  and  Burmah, 
and  a very  fabulous  one  of  China,  which  they  read  and  re- 
read. There  are  books  of  etiquette,  and  maxims,  proverbs, 
and  medicine.  They  have  also  translations  from  old  Indian 
and  Hindoo  romances,  and  there  are  scores  of  the  vilest 
and  most  immoral  plays,  which  they  read  with  avidity,  and 
never  tire  of  seeing  performed  in  the  native  theatres.  Of 
poetry  in  its  highest  and  noblest  sense  they  know  nothing, 
but  they  have  volumes  of  rhymes  which  they  read,  as 
indeed  they  do  all  their  books,  aloud,  and  in  a sing-song 
tone,  more  for  the  sake  of  the  jingle  than  for  any  meaning 
they  may  contain. 


SIAMESE  LANGUAGE  AND  LITERATURE.  107 


The  former  Foreign  Minister  and  the  late  ex-Fegent 
were  rival  translators,  each  one  trying  to  do  more  than  the 
other,  and  through  this  emulation  they  have  furnished  the 
people  with  quite  a numher  of  books,  not  speciallj^  useful, 
however,  nor  likely  to  lift  them  above  the  ordinary  low 
level  where  they  found  them. 

To  the  Christian  missionaries,  earnest-hearted  and  per- 
severing, tlie  foreigner  owes  nearly  all  his  thanks  for  books 
which  will  in  any  way  help  him  in  the  acquirement  of  the 
language.  Among  these  Bishop  Fallegoix’s  Dictionary 
stands  first.  It  gives  the  Siamese  words  and  their  mean- 
ings in  French,  Latin,  and  English.  It  was  printed  in 
Paris  in  1854,  and  nothing  better  has  since  appeared. 
The  MS.  for  another  Siamese  Dictionary  has  lately  been 
sent  to  Europe.  The  American  missionaries  have  prepared 
ordinary  school-books.  Some  of  them  are  printed  ^vith 
maps  and  illustrations.  There  is  a physiology  and  IJnited 
States  history  not  yet  published.  Of  their  religious  books 
I shall  speak  in  my  chapter  on  the  missions. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


THE  KTSg’s  birthday. 

The  present  King  of  Siam  -was  bom  in  Bangkok,  Sep- 
tember 21, 1853.  I happened  to  be  in  the  capital  in  1880, 
and  there  witnessed  the  festivities  and  illuminations  in 
honor  of  his  natal  day.  As  he  is  a roj’al  personage,  they 
were  kept  np  for  three  days  and  nights.  Oriental  kings 
are  privileged  to  add  three  years  to  their  ages,  because  old 
age  is  held  peculiarly  honorable  in  all  these  lands.  'Whether 
the  King  of  Siam  avails  himself  of  this  right  or  not  I do 
not  know. 

The  illuminations  were  beantifnl  aU  through  the  palace 
grounds  and  up  and  down  the  river.  There  were  such 
mottoes  as  “ God  save  the  King,”  “ God  bless  the  King,” 
and  “ Long  live  the  King.”  There  was  a lighthouse  traced 
against  the  sky  in  brilhant  jets  of  flame,  Siamese  seal,  gates 
ajar,  pagodas,  crowns,  and  letters.  The  shipping  was 
specially  brilliant,  the  hulks  outhued  with  lamps,  and  the 
rigging  ablaze  with  golden  light  from  the  deck  to  the 
masthead.  There  was  music,  also,  and  fireworks. 

The  last  night  there  was  a party  at  the  “ Sumran  Boone 
Palace,”  “ The  Hap]iy  Shelter,”  where  General  and  Mrs. 
Grant  were  entertained  during  their  visit  to  Siam.  The 
missionaries  were  all  invited.  There  were  only  about 
twenty  foreign  ladies  present,  but  a great  many  foreign 
gentlemen,  and  there  were  crowds  of  Siamese  princes  and 
nobles,  ch-essed  in  their  elegant  court  clothes,  made  of  silk 
and  velvet  and  cloth-of-golJ,  set  with  jewels.  But  not  one 
Siamese  woman  appeared.  We  looked  over  the  magnificent 
rooms,  the  beautiful  palace  walls,  the  rich  furniture,  the 
(108) 


THE  KING’S  BIRTHDA  Y. 


109 


marble  floors,  all  standing  ont  in  the  brilliant  glare  of  the 
new  electric  lights,  which  blazed  like  snns  from  the  lofty 
ceiling,^  and  we  thought  of  the  gross  darkness  which  still 
enveloped  the  people,  and  especially  the  women,  and  we 
questioned,  “ What  good  is  in  all  this  show  ? ” The  nation 
can  never  “ arise  and  shine  ” while  the  mothers,  wives,  and 
sisters  are  trodden  under  foot. 

I cannot  fully  describe  the  grandeur  of  the  palace,  the 
music,  the  lights;  the  flowers,  ferns,  and  lilies,  arranged 
over  ice  in  crystal  boxes ; the  sparkling  fountains,  which 
threw  their  bright  spray  over  artiflcial  grottos  and  fairy 
bowers ; the  rich  and  costly  furniture,  the  lovely  adornments, 
paintings,  and  statues  ; the  sumptuous  table,  glittering  with 
gold  and  silver  plate,  china,  and  glassware.  The  viands, 
too,  were  many  and  delicious,  having  been  prepared  under 
Eitropean  supervision.  This  is  the  first  party  at  the  palace 
that  I have  attended,  although  invited  nearly  every  year. 
And  yet  I have  part  of  the  promise,  “‘Thou  shalt  stand 
before  kings  for  My  IS^ame’s  sake.”  People  of  the  West- 
ern world  cannot  appreciate  the  honor  of  being  able  to 
‘‘  stand  before  kings,”  instead  of  l}ung  prostrate  before 
them,  as  was  so  lately  the  custom  here  in  Siam. 

During  the  birthday  celebration  we  went  one  day  to  the 
Poyal  IMuseum,  which  had  been  newly  opened  to  the  pub- 
lic. The  display  of  curiosities  was  good.  There  are  many 
stuffed  animals  and  birds  from  other  lands,  and  cases  of 
costly  gold  and  silver  ornaments  set  with  gems ; Chinese 
bowls  and  dishes  of  many  curious  and  beautiful  sha])es  and 
colors;  some  geological  specimens,  and  rude,  uncut  gems 
from  native  mines ; elephant-tusks  and  trappings,  some 
captured  battle-flags  and  armor  on  the  wall,  old-style  sad- 
dles and  bridles,  swords,  spears,  bows  and  arrows.  We  no- 
ticed toys  and  dolls,  images  and  idols,  and  a full-length  por- 
trait of  the  king,  and  near  by  a marble  bust  of  the  same. 
There  is  also  a nucleus  of  a fine  English  library.  The  king 


110 


SIAM. 


came  to  tlie  musexmi,  and  was  greeted  bj  all  tlie  people, 
lie  passed  from  room  to  room,  followed  by  his  courtiers 
and  four  of  his  little  diildren — uice  little  ones,  bright-look- 
ing, and  smiling  pleasantly. 

The  following  extracts  from  the  letter  of  a fi'iend  who 
attended  the  birthday  party  the  pre^dous  year,  are  worthy 
a place  on  my  pages  in  this  connection : 

“ This  season  is  a gala  time  for  the  enth-e  nation,  and  is  annu- 
ally celebrated  with  gi-eat  splendor  and  show.  For  sevei’al  days 
preceding  the  festivities  the  rain  fell  almost  tmceasingly,  the 
heaviness  of  the  showere  seeming  to  indicate  the  closmg  up  of 
the  six  months’  ivdny  season  ; but  the  evening  of  the  20th  which 
ushered  in  the  all-important  day,  the  I’ain  ceased  so  suddenly, 
and  so  obligingly  refrained  from  falling  to  any  amount  dming 
the  entire  time  of  the  celebration,  that  the  superstitious  natives 
ascribed  it  to  the  gi'eat  ‘merit’  His  Majesty  had  made — probably 
by  gifts  to  the  priesthood  or  visits  to  the  heathen  ‘ wats’ — and 
that  the  fa^-oring  of  the  weather-god  boded  for  the  futiu-e  hai>- 
piness  of  the  king,  and  the  continued  prosperity  of  his  kingdom. 
It  will  be  difficult  for  me  to  give  you  even  the  faintest  idea  of 
these  strange,  brilliant  Oriental  scenes,  wliich  almost  beggar 
description,  for  if  the  Siamese  can  be  said  to  excel  in  any  one 
thing,  in  them  present  degi’aded  condition  as  a nation  and  peo- 
l^le,  it  is  in  their  display  of  fireworks. 

“On  the  evenings  of  which  I Avi’ite  the  Royal  Palace  was  bril- 
liant with  multitudinous  flashing  lights,  ti’iumiings  of  greens 
and  flower’s,  and  waving  flags.  On  the  masts  of  the  steamer’s 
lyitrg  near  the  palace,  fr’om  point  to  pomt,  in  and  out,  atxrrrrrd 
the  hull,  were  brilliant  lights,  making  the  steamers  resemble 
things  of  life  as  they  lay  on  the  water.  Conspicuous  for  its 
beauty  was  the  pleasrme  steam-yacht  of  His  Majesty. 

“The  differ’ent  boat-landings  vied  with  each  other  in  their 
illuminations  ; many  of  the  designs  were  par’ticrrlarly  noticeable. 
The  skeleton  of  a building  thrown  up  and  liter’aUy  covered  with 
small  lights,  resembled  a house  about  to  be  consumed.  At  an- 
other place,  anrid  the  scarlet  of  waving  flags  arrd  surrounding 
lights,  flashed  oirt  ‘God  save  the  King,’  written  in  English  ; 
‘ Yive  le  Roi  ’ glittered  from  the  frorrt  walls  of  the  Fr’ench  corr- 
sulate.  At  one  point  I noticed  the  figure  of  a Buddha,  so  per- 


THE  KING’S  BIRTH  DA  K 


111 


fectly  represented  by  the  lights  that  the  features  were  distin- 
guLshable.  Far  off  in  the  distance  one  could  tell  the  position  of 
‘ wats  ’ or  temples  by  the  spires,  tipped  with  blazing  balls  of  light. 
Above  all  from  behind  the  clouds  peeped  the  moon,  with  veiled 
face,  as  if  she  feared  to  compete  with  such  brilliant,  though 
ti’ansient  eartlily  glory. 

“ Amid  the  firing  of  camion  from  the  palace  forts,  which  took 
place  at  intervals  throughout  the  morning  of  the  real  bhthday, 
the  king  received  the  congratulations  of  the  various  consular  rep- 
resentatives, and  of  others  who  desired  to  pay  him  that  respect. 

“ The  evening  of  the  22d  the  festivities  teiminated  in  a recep- 
tion, which  is  annually  given  to  the  foreign  community  by  the 
Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  a Siamese  nobleman  of  great  wealth, 
and  bearing  the  title  of  Kromatah.  Nine  oclock  p.m.  found  us 
in  our  floating  carriage,  among  a crowd  of  other  boats,  in  front 
of  the  magnificent  palace  of  the  Kromatah,  which  was  ablaze 
with  light.  Matting,  covered  with  a strip  of  Brussels  carpet, 
ran  even  to  the  water’s  edge.  Up  this  I was  conducted  by  the 
usher,  through  the  halls,  saloons,  and  windings,  till  I stood  at 
the  door  of  the  di’essing-room,  where  a Siamese  waiting-woman 
received  me.  Ah,  the  chasm  between  the  hovel  and  the  palace  ! 
I could  almost  imagine  myself  in  fairyland  for  the  time.  Hand- 
some miiTOi’S  reflected  my  form  on  every  side  ; a blue  and 
white  cai-pet  covered  the  floor  ; soft  divans,  on  which  one  could 
dream  hom-s  away,  were  scattered  here  and  there  ; a bed,  hung 
u ith  blue  tapestry,  attracted  admh’ation  ; while  in  a still  smaller 
room  could  be  found  every  et  cetera  that  the  most  fashionable 
belle  would  demand  in  making  her  toilet.  Was  I in  heathen- 
dom ? 

“ The  palace  is  built  somewhat  after  the  European  style,  with 
many  quaint  designs  of  architecture.  The  saloon  in  which  the 
guests  were  gathered  was  paved  with  mottled  marble,  and 
thi-oughout  the  rooms  were  scattered  articles,  curious,  rare,  and 
costly.  I saw,  too,  portraits  of  Queen  Victoria,  Napoleon  Bona- 
j;arte,  the  late  Pope,  William  of  Germany,  Bismarck,  and  other 
celebrities ; specimens  of  Siamese  and  Chinese  workmanship  were 
conspicuous.  Upon  one  of  the  centre-tables  in  the  large  saloon 
were  displayed  in  all  their  wonderful  beauty  and  fragrance  two 
of  the  Victoria  Regina  lilies,  which,  though  not  indigenous  to 
this  soil,  ai’e  cultivated  in  the  private  garden  of  our  host,  the 
Kiomatah.  Bubbling  fountains,  swinging  punkahs  (a  sort  of 


112 


S/AAf. 


large  fan  suspended  from  the  ceiling),  pleasant  conversation 
with  people  of  different  nationalities,  made  the  houre  fly 
rapidly,  and  soon  the  hui’sting  of  sky-rockets  and  the  strains 
of  the  national  anthem  announced  the  arrival  of  the  king.  Ere 
Ave  were  aware  the  graceful  form  of  His  Majesty,  di-essed  in  the 
most  unostentatious  manner,  followed  by  his  courtiers,  stood  in 
the  midst  of  the  guests,  who  with  one  accord  rose  to  meet  him. 
In  a dignified  manner  he  passed  aromid  the  group,  shaking 
hands  and  speaking  a word  or  two  to  those  in  the  inner  circle. 
Passing  through  the  rooms,  he  soon  returned  to  the  saloon, 
where  Dr.  William  Dean,  in  the  name  of  the  company  gathered 
to  do  honor  to  His  Majesty,  offered  him  their  hearty  con- 
gratulations and  best  wishes.  The  king,  in  a cordial  maimer, 
replied  in  his  native  language,  and  soon  after  bowed  a final 
adieu  to  all.  His  eldest  and  favorite  child,  the  Princess  CivUi, 
about  twelve  years  of  age,  accompanied  her  royal  papa.” 

Here  is  a copy  of  the  paper  presented  to  the  King  of 
Siam  on  his  recent  birthday,  signed  by  the  American 
citizens  of  Bangkok : 

“ We,  the  undersigned  citizens  of  the  United  States  residing 
in  Siam,  beg  leave  to  present  to  His  Majesty,  the  King  of  Siam, 
our  congratulations  on  this,  the  annivei-saiy  of  His  Majesty’s 
birthday,  and  to  offer  our  best  wishes  for  his  continued  health 
and  happiness  and  the  prosperity  of  his  kingdom.  We  con- 
gratulate Your  Majesty  on  the  friendship  and  good-wfil  of  all 
other  nations  for  the  kingdom  of  Siam,  and  for  the  progi’ess  of 
civihzation  in  this  kingdom.  Boats  and  bridges  have  been 
built  to  facilitate  travel,  ships  and  steamboats  have  been  con- 
structed for  navigating  the  various  surrounding  watere,  canals 
have  been  dug  for  bringing  timber  from  the  forests  and  opening 
new  regions  of  the  country  for  cultivation,  elegant  palaces  have 
been  erected  for  His  Majesty  and  the  nobility,  improved  build- 
ings have  been  made  for  the  market-places  and  the  dwellings 
of  the  people,  and  a general  air  of  progi’ess  is  apparent  to 
recent  visitoi’s  to  Siam,  and  especially  to  older  residents  of  the 
country. 

“With  respectful  deference,  we  beg  to  suggest  to  Your 
Majesty  that  a stUl  higher  improvement,  and  a pledge  of  still 


THE  KING'S  BIRTH  DA  Y. 


113 


greater  prosperity  to  Siam,  might  be  secured  by  abolishing 
the  gambling-stalls,  the  spirit-shops,  and  the  sale  of  opium. 
These  are  the  prolific  sources  of  poverty,  theft,  and  disloy- 
alty. 

“We  renew  our  congratulations  for  His  Majesty’s  good 
health,  wise  government,  and  prosperous  reign,  and  pledge 
our  prayers  for  his  continued  happiness  and  growing  king- 
dom.” 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


SIAil’s  EELIGION. 

Buddhism  is  said  to  exist  in  greater  purity  in  Siam  than 
in  any  other  land  at  the  present  day.  If  this  be  true,  then 
here  we  may  look  for  its  best  and  noblest  fruits.  But  -what 
we  see  is  selfishness,  indifference,  indolence,  and  vice. 
Buddhism  is  a heartless  religion,  and  has  no  soul.  It  ac- 
knowledges no  God  and  no  Creator,  and  its  founder  taught 
that  each  one  must  work  out  his  own  salvation  by  the  per- 
formance of  good  deeds,  and  acts  of  self-denial,  whereby  all 
desire  and  all  ambition  is  crushed  and  the  man  reaches 
JVij)on,  exemption  from  transmigrations,  the  attainment  of 
never  being  born  again,  and  therefore  exemption  from  a 
succession  of  deaths.  They  will  not  let  us  call  it  annihila- 
tion, for  they  insist  that  the  existence  still  continues,  but  in 
an  unconscious,  indifferent  state.  What  a cheerless,  hope- 
less future ! And  when  it  is  remembered  that  the  attain- 
ment of  even  this,  is  only  for  those  who  perfectly  follow 
the  teachings,  and  walk  in  the  “ Paths,”  we  do  not  wonder 
that  even  the  best  and  most  austere  of  Siamese  Biiddliists 
when  questioned  as  to  their  hopes  for  the  future,  reply, 
“ It  is  all  dark,” 

As  they  know  not  the  real  God,  and  will  not  love  and 
serve  Him,  they  have  exalted  Buddha  far  beyond  his  de- 
serts, and  attribute  to  him  many  superhuman  qualities. 
Guatama,  or  Sornana  Kadom,  as  the  Siamese  call  the  last 
Buddha,  was  the  son  of  an  Indian  prince,  and  is  reputed  to 
have  been  born  in  Xortheru  India,  in  the  province  of  Oudh, 
within  one  hundred  miles  of  the  city  of  Benares,  in  the 
fifth  century  before  Christ.  He  left  the  palace  and  gave 
(114) 


SIAM'S  RELIGION. 


115 


np  all  its  royal  pleasures  for  a life  of  meditation  and  pov- 
erty. He  claimed  to  have  attained  Bnddliahood  and  then 
began  to  teach  the  way  to  others.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
he  taught  many  pure  and  beautiful  truths,  but  as  his  teach- 
ings were  not  reduced  to  writing  for  several  centuries  after 
his  death,  many  things  may  be  ascribed  to  him  which  he 
never  uttered. 

“ He  recognized  no  caste  as  did  the  Brahmins,  and  he  taught 
the  old  Indian  and  Egyptian  doctrine  of  the  transmigration  of 
souls.  His  doctrines  created  quite  a revolution  in  India,  a land 
accunsed  by  caste  and  licentiousness,  but  they  were  eagerly  ac- 
cepted by  many  earnest  souls.  His  missionaries  went  foi’th  preach- 
ing the  doctrines,  hut  the  further  they  went  the  more  they  were 
corrupted.  Dissensions  arose  among  his  disciples  and  the  order 
was  divided  into  two  streams,  northern  and  southern.  The  firet 
flowed  through  Thibet,  China,  Corea,  and  Japan.  The  southern 
stream  overran  Ceylon,  Burmah,  Siam,  Cochm-China,  and  parts 
of  the  Malay  Archipelago.  Like  a river  that  flows  through  many 
soils,  dissolving  them  all,  and  coiTux^ting  its  own  waters,  so  is 
Buddhism.  It  is  thick  and  turbid  with  the  superstitions  of  every 
land  it  has  entered.  The  Christian  missionary  meets  to-day  not 
the  original  purity  of  life,  but  the  vilest  of  sin  and  the  grossest 
of  lives  in  men  who  profess  what  Buddha  him.self  would  never 
recognize.  Buddha’s  faith,  and  the  Buddhism  of  to-day,  are  two 
different  things.”  * 

What  is  here  said  of  Buddhism  in  Japan,  I can  also  say 
of  it  in  Siam.  Here,  it  is  modified  by  the  beliefs  of  all  the 
commingling  nations.  It  is  very  tolerant  and  will  adopt 
and  teach  anything  to  plea.se  the  people  to  whom  the  lazy 
priests  look  for  their  support.  The  masses  in  Siam  are 
ignorant  of  most  of  the  tenets  and  doctrines  of  the  very  re- 
ligion in  which  they  profess  to  believe.  They  live  in  con- 
stant fear  of  all  kinds  of  invisible  s]iirits,  ghouls,  satyns, 
fairies,  and  water-sprites.  Lying  is  always  permissible,  and 


* Rev.  W.  E.  Griffis. 


IIG 


S/AM. 


at  times  liiglily  recommended.  The  Siamese  are  polyg- 
amists. They  cast  off  their  old  wives  and  mai-ry  new 
ones  “ with  none  to  molest  or  make  them  afraid,”  and  so  it 
often  happens  that  a man  cannot  remember  the  names  of 
all  his  wives  or  children,  nor  tell  who  are  dead  and  who  are 
living. 

The  missionaries  can  tell  these  people  much  they  have 
never  heard  about  their  Buddha.  Their  sacred  writings 
are  sealed  np  in  a foreign  language,  and  even  if  translated 
thousands  could  not  read  them.  It  is  a mistake  to  suppose 
that  all  the  Siamese  know  how  to  read.  There  is  no  mis- 
sionary spirit  among  the  priests  of  to-day.  They  do  not  go 
from  house  to  house  teaching  for  the  sake  of  instructing 
the  people  and  making  them  better,  as  history  says  Buddha 
and  his  early  disciples  did.  They  do  no  voluntary  work. 
They  must  be  hired  and  paid  well,  besides  being  feasted  be- 
fore every  serrice.  They  do  not  take  up  a collection,  as  we 
understand  that  term,  yet  by  sticking  coins  into  a wax  can- 
dle, offerings  are  made  which  ultimately  fall  to  the  priests. 
They  are  forbidden  to  touch  money,  but  they  spread  a fold 
of  theu’  sacred  robe  over  their  hand,  and  the  money  is  laid 
on  the  cloth,  or  one  of  the  temple  boys  who  ai*e  their  con- 
stant followers  is  appointed  to  receive  it. 

The  Buddhist  religious  serrices  are  usually  conducted  in 
open  porches  on  the  temple  grounds  and  are  accompanied 
by  bands  of  music,  native  theatres,  and  often  gambling. 
They  freely  acknowledge  that  it  is  a sin  to  have  these  things 
mixed  up  with  religious  rites,  but  say  the  people  will  not 
come  without  them.  The  natives — dressed  in  their  best, 
and  well  supplied  with  betel,  which  they  chew  incessantly 
and  give  and  take  with  the  utmost  politeness — sit  on  the 
edges  of  the  porch  or  on  the  ground,  in  the  shade  or  sun- 
shine just  as  it  happens,  and  laugh  and  talk  and  gossip  while 
the  priests  on  the  platform  are  preaching  away  in  their 
loudest  tones  and  most  exalted  style.  “Pi  fung  tate” — 


SIAM’S  RELIGION. 


117 


go  to  hear  preaching — does  not  mean  to  a Siamese  that  he 
is  to  listen  at  all,  but  simply  that  the  sound  of  the  words 
may  fall  upon  his  ear.  Why  should  they  listen — the  words 
are  in  an  unknown  tongue,  the  sacred  Pali,  and  as  they  say, 
“ ]\ri  cow  chi  ” — it  does  not  enter  the  heart. 

It  is  very  easy  for  the  adiuirers  of  the  “sublime  teachings 
of  Buddha,”  who  sit  in  the  light  and  glory  of  Christian 
England  and  America,  to  imagine  their  benign  influence 
upon  the  millions  of  the  East, 'where  they  have  been  re- 
peated through  the  centuries.  But  we  who  are  nearer, 
enshrouded  by  its  gloom,  in  the  very  midst  of  the  dark- 
ness, see  and  know  how  vain  are  these  repetitions,  and  how 
impossible  that  they  should  affect  the  lives  of  those  who 
hear  but  the  sound  of  words  they  cannot  understand.  The 
very  priests  who  speak  them  have  learned  them  by  rote, 
and  might  not  be  able  to  translate  a dozen  sentences.  Oc- 
casionally the  sermon  is  in  Siamese,  but  they  choose  priests 
who  are  good  talkers  and  can  tell  stories  to  make  the  audi- 
ence laugh,  and  the  sober  parts  of  the  discourse  are  exhor- 
tations to  the  impossible  observance  of  rites  and  ceremonies 
in  order  to  make  merit.  Every  act  of  a Buddhist’s  life  is  a 
selfish  one,  and  is  believecT  in  some  unknown  way  to  aug- 
ment lusTherlfl  1 even  knew  of  a woman  who  was  robbed, 
comforting  herself  by  saying,  “ Hever  mind,  in  my  heart 
I will  devote  the  stolen  money  to  Buddha,  and  make  merit 
by  it.” 

When  we  say  that  all  Siamese  are  Buddhists,  it  is  “neces- 
sary to  decide  not  only  what  is  Buddhism,  but  also  whether 
a firm  belief  in  one  religion  should  or  should  not  be  nulli- 
fied by  an  equally  firm  belief  in  another.  Almost  every 
Chinaman  would  probably  profess  himself  a believer  in  the 
philosophy  of  Confucius,  while  he  would  also  worship  in 
both  Buddhist  and  Tao  temples.”  In  Siam  they  are  equally 
inconsistent.  This  religion  claims  more  followers  than  any 
other  in  the  world,  but  perhaps  “ not  one  of  the  five  bun- 


118 


SIAM. 


dred  millions,  who  oSer  flowers  now  and  then  on  Buddhist 
shrines,  who  are  more  or  less  moulded  bj  Buddhist  teach- 
ing, is  only  or  altogether  a Buddhist.”  There  ai’e  many 
sects,  and  they  do  not  worship  nor  believe  alike.  Monks 
and  nuns  dwell  in  the  monasteries.  The  monks  are  called 
“ Pra,”  and  the  nuns  “ Ma  Chee.”  Like  all  man-made 
religions  Buddhism  was  at  first  opposed  to  the  admission  of 
nulls,  considering  women  too  inferior  to  enter  the  pale  of 
the  sacred  order.  But  as  the  Buddha’s  wife,  Yasodhara, 
was  one  of  the  first  nuns,  it  may  be  that  she  used  her 
womanly  arguments  to  effect  her  purpose,  as  did  Mrs.  Ma- 
homet, yeai's  after,  when  her  husband  was  formulating  an- 
other religion  which  was  for  the  sole  benefit  of  men.  Isot 
that  Mahomet’s  wife  became  a nun,  but  she  had  some  teach- 
in g^s  in  the  Koran  arranged  more  to  her  taste.  Bert;h’s 
“ Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals  ” is 
often  laughed  at  as  a modern  upstart,  while  the  humane 
are  ad^dsed  to  look  at  Buddhism  as  the  perfection  of  that 
theory.  Let  us  look  at  it  for  a moment  and  what  shall  ^ve 
see?  Animals  that  have  been  wounded,  or  hurt  in  any 
way,  left  to  suffer  and  starve  to  death  ; cattle  goaded  until 
the  blood  runs  down  their  sides ; dogs  scalded  and  beaten 
and  cut ; bull-fights,  cock-fights,  fish-fights,  and  the  wounded 
and  vanquished  cui’sed  and  often  turned  adrift.  Many 
Buddhists  will  not  take  life,  it  is  true,  but  they  torment 
and  wound  to  within  an  inch  of  it,  and  then  laugh  at  the 
sufferings  of  the  poor  creature,  or  watch  it  unmoved,  from 
day  to  day,  as  it  lingers  on. 

Just  when  this  religion  was  introduced  into  Siam  we 
cannot  tell — some  say  a.d.  638,  and  that  it  was  brought  by 
missionaries  from  Ceylon.  The  Siamese  themselves  ac- 
knowledge their  debt  to  Ceylon,  or  Koh  Lanka,  as  they 
call  that  island  ; and  I have  elsewhere  recorded  the  legend 
that  Ceylon  was  formed  by  a clod  of  earth  that  dropped 
fi'oin  Lord  Buddha’s  heel  as  he  stepped  over  the  Bay  of 


SIAM'S  RELIGION. 


119 


Bengal  from  India  to  Siam.  Ho  wonder  Buddhism  made 
such  strides  in  the  early  centuries,  if  its  founder  could  thus 
travel  with  more  than  the  speed  of  the  wonderful  “ seven- 
league  boots.”  It  is  hard  to  tell  how  they  reconcile  this 
apparent  contradiction.  If,  as  the  legend  says,  Buddha 
came  to  Siam,  he  would  teach  the  religion  himself,  and  the 
island  of  Ceylon  was  not  in  existence  till  after  his  transit. 
It  seems  to  be  on  the  strength  of  this  legend  that  they 
claim  one  of  his  sacred  footsteps  on  Mount  Prabaht.  But, 
as  a writer  on  Buddhism  has  naively  remarked,  “ It  is  true 
that  those  early  writers  were  not  capable  of  making  due 
distinction  between  that  which  they  thought  ought  to  have 
happened  and  that  which  actually  occurred  ; it  is  true,  even, 
that  what  they  thought  highly  edifying  is  often  miraculous 
and  not  seldom  absurd  and  childish.”  It  is  said  that  at  the 
age  of  seven  Buddha  could  take  an  elephant  by  the  tail 
and  throw  it  a long  distance ; he  could  rise  at  will  and  sit 
cross-legged  in  mid-air;  he  could  divide  his  body  into 
innumerable  portions,  and  from  each  would  flash  light. 
He  destroyed  a dragon  by  burning  odors  before  it.  He 
shot  with  a bow  that  1,000  men  could  not  bend,  and  the 
twang  of  whose  string  was  heard  Y,000  miles.  But  that  he 
ever  performed  a miracle  for  the  benefit  or  good  of  any 
one  except  himself  is  not  recorded.  And  although  he  has 
been  dead  for  centuries,  and  is  now  deified,  no  one  pretends 
that  he  ever  could,  would,  or  should  help  his  worshippers. 

Guatama  was  only  one  of  a succession  of  Buddhas.  In 
their  sacred  books  there  is  a list  of  twenty-four  who  pre- 
ceded him.  In  the  Pali  and  Sanscrit  the  word  Buddha  is 
always  used  as  a title,  not  as  a name.  After  the  death  of 
each  Buddha  his  religion  flourishes  for  a time,  and  then 
decays,  till  it  is  at  last  com])letely  forgotten,  and  wicked- 
ness and  violence  rule  over  the  earth ; the  world  then 
gradually  improves  until  a new  Buddha  appears,  who  again 
preaches  the  lost  truth.  After  5,000  years  shall  have 


120 


SIAM. 


elapsed  since  his  rediscovery  of  the  truth  under  the  Po 
tree,  a new  Buddha  will  again  open  the  door  of  Nirvana 
to  men,  his  name  being  Maitreya,  the  Buddha  of  kindness, 
or  the  Unconquerable  One.  As  the  present  century  falls 
near  the  middle  of  that  cycle  of  5,000  years,  it  may  be  that 
Buddhism  is  at  its  very  worst,  and  that  is  why  its  glorious 
teachings,  so  full  of  light  and  beauty,  are  so  at  variance 
with  the  abominable  lives  and  the  darkness  and  super- 
stition of  its  votaries. 

For  twelve  centuries  the  “Light  of  Asia”  has  been 
shining  on  this  favored  kingdom,  and  yet  the  further  we 
penetrate  in  our  search  for  good  fruits,  for  justice,  mercy, 
and  love,  for  purity  of  heart  and  life,  the  more  are  we 
convinced  of  the  utter  rottenness  and  deadness  of  the 
whole  system.  It  reminds  me  of  the  corpse  of  a dead  king 
enthroned  in  the  Pramane,  surrounded  by  all  the  insignia 
of  royalty,  guarded  by  the  new  sovereign,  and  worshipped 
by  the  priests  and  people,  but  waiting  for  the  fire,  when 
the  golden  casket  will  be  removed,  and  the  putrid  mass 
they  proudly  called  their  king  will  be  I’educed  to  a handful 
of  ashes.  The  corpse  of  Buddhism  is  also  waiting  in  state 
for  the  sacred  fire  to  ignite  its  funeral  pyre — the  fire  from 
heaven — and  it  will  surely  come.  It  is  kindled  already. 
The  Unconquerable  One  has  invaded  the  realm,  and  many 
hearts  are  owning  him  Lord  ! 

To  Buddha,  it  is  said,  the  trees  rendered  homage  at  his 
death,  letting  fall  ujjon  him  fragrant  flowers  out  of  season, 
and  bending  loUngly  over  him  with  their  sheltering 
branches ; and  who  can  wonder  that  the  story  adds  that 
the  angels  in  the  sky  dropped  heavenly  flowers  and  sang 
heavenly  songs  to  strengthen  him.  After  his  death  at  the 
age  of  eighty,  the  miracles  and  exaggerations  increase,  and 
the  former  especially  are  evidently  influenced  by  the  desire 
to  make  the  Buddha’s  funeral  rites  as  splendid  as  those  of 
a Chaki-awarti  king.  The  body  refuses  to  be  moved  until 


SIAM'S  RELIGION. 


121 


the  gods  indicate  the  direction  in  wliicli  it  is  to  be  carried  ; 
it  refuses  to  burn  till  tlie  venerable  Kasyapa,  the  old  and 
faithful  head  of  the  Order  of  Mendicants,  arrives.  Three 
times,  with  his  monks,  he  paces  reverently  round  the  pile 
on  which  the  body  of  his  dead  master  hes,  and  stands  with 
bent  head  opposite  the  feet.  Then  the  pile  takes  fire  of 
itself ; and,  when  everything  except  the  bones  have  been 
consumed,  showers  from  heaven  extinguish  it. 

The  later  accounts  relate  that,  as  Kasyapa  stood  by  the 
feet  of  the  revered  teacher,  he  fell  into  the  mystic  trance 
of  Dhyana ; and  when  he  recovered  from  the  trance, 
prayed  to  see  once  more  the  sacred  feet  on  which  the 
thirty-two  signs  of  a Chakrawarti  were  visible.  He  had 
scarcely  uttered  his  prayer  when  the  coverings  unrolled 
themselves,  the  coffin  opened,  and  the  feet  came  out  like 
the  full  moon  emerging  from  the  bosom  of  a dark  cloud. 
The  whole  assembly  burst  into  loud  applause  on  seeijig  this 
matchless  prodigy.  Kasyapa  and  his  monks  reverently 
placed  the  sacred  feet  upon  their  heads,  after  which  the 
feet  withdrew,  the  coverings  replaced  themselves,  and  the 
coffin  and  the  pile  resumed  their  natural  appearance. 

Once,  while  sailing  above  Petchaburee,  we  stopped  at  a 
rest-house  on  the  river  bank.  The  posts  and  ceiling  were 
nicely  painted,  and  here  I saw  this  pictured  legend  in  all 
the  glory  of  red  and  yellow  Chinese  paint.  There  were 
the  funeral  pyre  and  the  coffin,  the  protruding  feet,  and 
old  Kasyapa  and  his  monks,  with  bare  head  and  feet  and 
yellow  robes.  As  I had  not  yet  read  the  legend,  I could 
not  understand  the  picture.  I asked  the  natives,  who 
crowded  round  to  see  ns,  what  it  meant.  But  their  knowl- 
edge of  the  past  and  their  ideas  of  Buddhism  are  very 
vague  and  imperfect,  and  they  could  not  throw  much  light 
on  the  stmy.  They  only  knew  that  it  was  one  of  Buddha’s 
miracles.  If  we  but  knew  their  behefs  and  legends,  the 
strange  and  grotesque  pictures  all  over  the  temple  walls, 
6 


122 


SIAM. 


and  traced  on  salas,  lialls,  and  porclies,  Tvonld  have  a new 
and  peculiar  interest  to  us.  There  are  pictures  and  images 
of  Buddha  everywhere.  Once  only  have  I seen  an  image 
of  any  other  god,  and  that  Avas  the  three-faced  god  Brahm, 
in  a hall  near  the  Buddhist  temple  in  the  lotus  gardens  of 
Bangkok.  I have  heard  of  one  in  this  province,  a stone 
image  of  Brahm,  which,  it  is  said,  fell  from  heaven,  and  is 
now  lying  neglected  in  an  old  deserted  temple  ground,  but 
I have  never  seen  it. 

The  Siamese  are  gross  idolaters,  worshipping  these  im- 
ages and  boTAung  before  them  with  clasped  hands  and  faces 
to  the  earth  in  the  most  abject  manner.  Daily  offerings 
are  placed  before  them,  and  flowers  laid  in  the  ever  open 
palm  of  the  Buddha.  They  are  enthroned  at  all  the  royal 
ceremonies,  and  when  the  oath  of  allegiance  is  taken,  the 
priests  present  hold  in  their  hands  a sacred  cord  which 
connects  them  with  the  image.  They  are  carried  in  pro- 
cessions, and  preside  at  fetes  and  feasts ; they  are  taken  to 
the  flelds  to  see  the  parched  earth  when  the  land  suffers 
from  drought.  'When  Petchaburee  was  burned,  and  the 
governor’s  treasures  carried  out  into  his  garden,  he  set  an 
idol  there  to  guard  them.  Once  each  year  they  are  bathed 
and  sprinkled  with  perfume,  and  many  of  them  presented 
with  new  scarfs  and  coverings.  The  natives  write  letters 
to  dead  friends,  and  lay  them  across  the  shoulder  of  the 
image,  believing  it  will  safely  carry  the  message  to  the  de- 
parted. An  oath  or  a vow  taken  before  an  idol  is  consider- 
ed irrevocable. 

That  the  very  highest  and  most  intelligent  look  through 
the  image  to  Buddha  as  the  real  object  of  worship,  may 
perhaps  be  true.  But  they  are  such  a small  number,  that 
the  Siamese  Buddhists,  as  a nation,  must  be  classed  among 
veritable  pagans. 

In  the  old  history  of  Siam  there  is  a story  of  a gold 
image  of  Buddha  that  was  cast  in  1380,  and  which  Aveighed 


SIAM’S  RELIGION. 


123, 


141^000  pounds,  and  tin’s,  if  of  pnre  gold,  would  be  worth 
the  incredible  sum  of  $30,000,000.  They  also  tell  of  an- 
other image  fifty  cubits  high,  made  of  gold  and  silver  and 
copper.  But  of  course  we  receive  these  stories  doubtfully, 
because  there  are  no  traces  of  these  images  to-day,  nor  after- 
stoHes  of  their  destniction,  and  the  largest  and  grandest 
idols  now  are  only  brick  and  mortar,  thinly,  very  thiidy, 
overlaid  with  gold-leaf,  and  set  with  jewels  of  questionable 
value.  The  famous  Emerald  Idol  at  Bangkok,  brought 
from  Laos  and  said  to  have  fallen  from  heaven,  \vith  a dia- 
mond in  its  forehead  and  diamond  eyes,  is  so  far  up  beyond 
the  sight  of  vulgar  eyes,  that,  like  the  really  beautiful  statue 
of  the  Goddess  of  Liberty  on  onr  national  capitol,  you  have 
to  believe  in  it  because  people  say  it  is  there,  and  you  see  a 
dim  outline  in  the  height  above  you.  Then,  too,  it  is  so 
dark  in  the  temple  that  I have  never  been  able  to  distin- 
guish if  the  image  is  green  or  black.  It  is  held  very  saci’cd 
by  modern  Siamese,  and  is  kept  in  the  royal  temple  where 
the  princes  and  nobles  of  the  realm  gather  twice  each  year  to 
drink  the  water  of  allegiance  and  swear  fidelity  before  their 
king. 

One  may  gain  a pretty  fair  idea  of  their  belief  from  the 
following  translation  of  the  Siamese  Oath  of  Allegiance : 

“We,  the  slaves  of  the  Lord  Buddh,  beg  to  offer  to  His 
Maje.sty,  Prabaht  Somdetch  Pra  Chula  Chaum  Klow,  the  King, 
this  our  personal  oath,  pledging  our  loyalty,  in  the  immediate 
presence  of  the  god  Buddh,  the  sacred  teachings  and  the  sacred 
priests. 

“We  entreat  the  deity  which  protects  the  sectioned  white  Um- 
brella (the  insignia  of  royalty),  and  the  guardian  deities  of  all 
other  places  throughout  the  kingdom,  to  observe  with  their  god- 
like eyes,  and  hear  with  their  godlike  ears,  the  pledges  we  make 
to  Prabaht  Somdetch  Pra  Chula  Chaum  Klow,  the  King,  who 
has  been  cro^vned  and  placed  upon  the  throne,  and  who,  observ- 
ing the  ancient  royal  usages,  treats  graciously  the  priests,  the 
miuisters,  and  royal  descendants,  the  official  servants  of  His 


124 


SIAM. 


Majesty,  military  and  civil,  within  and  Avithout,  the  provincial 
governoi's  and  their  subalterns,  the  rulers  of  territories,  states, 
and  the  entire  population  living  withhi  His  Majesty’s  dominions. 
Hence  it  is  proper  that  we  gratefully  perform  our  official  duties, 
under  His  Majesty’s  feet  faithfully,  Hee  from  rebellious  acts, 
physical,  verbal,  mental. 

“ If  Ave,  the  slaves  of  our  Lord  Buddh,  are  not  firmly  fixed  in 
true  natural  gratitude,  or  if  Ave  meditate  to  His  Majesty,  Prabaht 
Somdetch  Pra  Chula  Chaum  Klow,  the  King,  Avith  body,  words, 
or  m disposition,  or  if  we  disclose  our  minds  to  the  people  or 
rulei’S  of  other  regions  that  are  hostile,  and  plot  that  othern  do 
evil  to  Prabaht  Somdetch  Pra  Chula  Chaum  Klow,  the  King. 
If  we  see  with  our  eyes,  hear  Avith  our  ears,  or  know  that 
othere  are  about  to  do  evil  to  His  Majesty,  and  do  not  brmg 
forAA'ard  the  subject  for  investigation,  so  that  it  may  be  siiecially 
brought  to  the  ImoAA'ledge  of  His  Majesty,  but  delay  with  eA’il  in- 
tent, Avith  ingratitude,  and  lack  of  honesty,  and  with  eAul  pur- 
poses toward  Prabaht  Somdetch  Pra  Chula  Chaum  Klow,  the 
King,  who  is  so  full  of  gi’eat  mercy  and  incomparable  gracious- 
ness : 

“We  pray  the  deities  of  lands  and  forests ; the  guardian  deities ; 
the  atmospheric  deities ; the  goddesses  Avho  cai’C  for  the  earth, 
especially  the  powerful  deities  who  are  located  where  is  the  great 
white  Umbrella,  emblem  of  royalty,  may  plague  us  with  caoIs, 
destroy  our  lives,  effect  our  destruction  and  death  by  braak- 
age,  by  scA’^erance;  cause  our  death  by  lightnhig  and  thunder- 
bolts, by  royal  weapons,  the  powerful  royal  SAVord,  by  poison, 
and  the  poAA^er  of  land  and  water  animals ; let  there  be  some 
opportunity  for  the  destruction  of  the  perfidious  ones  ; let 
SAVift  destruction  come  ; let  us  not  escape  all  great  disasters, 
and  consequences  of  all  localities,  which  those  who  haA^e 
the  power  can  inflict  for  all  offences.  We  beseech  the  poAver 
of  the  deities  to  plague  Avith  poisonous  boils,  rapidly  fatal, 
and  all  manner  of  diseases,  the  dishonorable,  peiwerae,  and 
treacherous,  plague  with  untimely,  wretched,  and  appalling 
deaths,  manifest  to  the  eyes  of  the  world ; AA'hen  Ave  shall  liaA'e 
dejjarted  this  life  from  earth,  cause  us  to  he  sent  and  all  to  be 
born  in  the  great  hell,  Avhere  Ave  shall  burn  AAfith  quenchless 
fire  for  tens  and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  ages  and  limit- 
less transmigrations;  and  Avhen  AAre  have  expiated  our  penalty 
thei'e,  and  ai-e  again  horn  in  any  Avorld,  we  pray  Ave  may  fail  to 


SIAM'S  RELIGION. 


125 


find  the  least  happiness  in  worlds  of  pleasurable  enjoyments ; let 
us  not  meet  the  god  Buddh,  the  sacred  teachings,  the  sacred 
priests,  who  come  to  be  gracious  to  animals,  helping  them  es- 
cape misery,  reach  heaven  and  attain  a cessation  of  births  and 
deaths ; should  we  meet  them,  let  them  gi-ant  us  no  gracious  as- 
sistance. 

“If  we  remain  firmly  established  in  gratitude  and  honesty, 
and  do  not  meditate  the  rebellion  and  evil  that  has  been  re- 
hearsed, we  beg  the  land,  the  forest,  and  tlie  atmospheric  dei- 
ties, and  the  four  great  guardians  of  the  world,  whose  power 
extends  to  all  the  worlds  of  the  gods,  to  the  sacred  foundations, 
forces  and  rulers  of  powerful  nations,  and  the  ileities  stationed 
in  the  great  white  Parasols  of  royalty,  and  the  guardian  deities 
that  protect  His  Majesty  by  night  and  by  day,  and  the  deities  that 
protect  the  palace,  and  the  deities  stationed  to  protect  the  twelve 
royal  treasuries,  and  all  the  deities,  the  armories,  and  ministers, 
and  gi’eat  royal  property ; we  entreat  you  all  to  assist,  and  pro- 
tect us  who  perform  all  official  duties  faithfully ; grant  us  pros- 
perity and  happiness  in  this  and  in  other  worlds ; cause  us  to 
escape  all  the  diseases  and  calamities  that  have  been  enmner- 
ated. 

“ We  have  received  from  His  Majesty  this  water,  pledging  our- 
selves, therefore  cause  us  to  possess  clear,  unalloyed  happiness, 
and  to  escape  from  all  diseases  and  maladies  ; and  grant  us  emi- 
nent prosperity,  and  brilliant,  happy,  fruitful  lives,  prolonged 
into  very  gi-eat  age  ; then  let  us  die  m happiness  resembling 
sleep,  with  an  awakening  in  the  abode  of  the  gods,  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  godlike  possessions  in  heaven,  for  huntb-eds  of  thou- 
sands of  ages  and  limitless  species  of  beings. 

‘ ‘ When  we  die  and  depart  from  the  heavenly  and  god-worlds 
to  be  born  again  in  human  worlds,  let  us  aboiind  vdth  goods,  glo- 
rious and  limitless  possessions,  and  distinguished  attendants  in 
accord  with  our  dc,sires. 

“We  entreat  the  Lord  Buddh,  the  sacred  teachings,  and  the 
sacred  priests,  to  grant  the  fulfillment  of  our  desires  in  the  way 
of  heaven,  and  escape  from  the  successions  of  life  and  death, 
and  then’  attendant  miseries,  together  with  oui-  fidelity  and 
gratitude.” 

Buddhism  is  undoubtedly  the  best  of  all  heathen  relig- 
ions, and  in  many,  very  many  things, — especially  its  rites 


12G 


SIAM. 


and  ceremonies  ; its  priests  and  monks  and  nuns  ; its  mon- 
asteries and  gorgeous  temples ; its  robes  and  vestments ; 
its  feasts  and  fasts  and  processions ; its  idols,  altars,  candles, 
incense,  liolj-water,  and  bells ; its  purgatory  ; its  works  of 
merit  and  almsgiving  and  penances;  its  sworn  jioverty,  but 
marvellous  wealth ; its  self-denial  and  mortification  of  the 
flesh  ; its  adoration  of  relics,  shrines,  and  angels ; its  prayers 
for  the  dead  and  canonization  of  old  saints ; its  literal  buy- 
ing of  salvation, — it  so  closely  resembles  the  Roman  Cath- 
olic Church  that  it  is  no  matter  of  surprise  that  she  has  ad- 
mitted Buddha  to  her  calendar,  and  ordered  him  to  be  wor- 
shipped as  a saint  on  every  27th  of  November,  under  the 
title  of  St.  Josophat.*  But  to  have  been  made  a Catholic 
saint  is  not  the  only  curious  fate  which  has  befallen  the 
great  teacher.  He  takes  his  place  also  in  a quaintly  illus- 
trated old  book,  called  “ Dictionnarie  Infernel,”  as  the  man 
in  the  moon,  or  rather  the  “ hare  in  the  moon.”  The  or- 
igin of  this  legend,  which  is  very  old,  appears  traceable 
to  one  of  the  Jataka  stories,  in  which  the  future  Buddha  is 
a holy  hare  who  keeps  the  Sabbath  and  exhorts  his  fellow 
hares  to  charity  and  piety.  One  Sabbath,  after  exhorting 
them  to  give  a part  of  their  food  to  the  hungry,  and  then 
recollecting  that  men  cannot  eat  grass,  he  resolves,  if  neces- 
sary, to  give  away  his  own  body.  The  god  Saki’a,  aware 
of  this  high  resolve,  comes  in  the  form  of  a Brahmin  and 
begs ; blit  when  the  hai’e  really  offers  himself  and  jumps 
into  the  fire,  the  fire  does  not  burn  him.  Then  Saki*a,  say- 
ing, “ O wise  hare,  let  your  vii’tue  be  known  to  the  end  of 
the  world ! ” splits  open  a mountain  and  taking  the  sap 
draws  a picture  of  the  hare  on  the  disk  of  the  moon.  The 
Japanese  always  see  a /tare  in  the  moon.  This  story  is 
given  both  in  Pali  and  Sanscrit,  and,  perhaps  modified,  in 


* For  authority  on  this  and  other  statements  and  legends  con- 
cerning Buddha,  see  “ Buddhism,”  by  T.  W.  Rhys  Davids. 


SIAM'S  RELIGION. 


127 


Edwin  Arnold’s  sacrifice  of  Biiddlia  to  feed  the  hungry 
tigress  and  her  whelps. 

There  are  many  legends  especially  dear  to  Siamese  Buddh- 
ists. First  among  them  is  that  concerning  Buddha’s  birth, 
which  says  that  “ after  seven  days  of  fasting  and  seclusion 
the  pure  and  holy  Maya  dreams  that  she  is  carried  l)y 
archangels  to  heaven,  and  that  there  the  future  Buddha 
enters  her  right  side  in  the  form  of  a superb  white  ele- 
phant.” It  was  predicted  that  “ the  child  will  be  a son, 
who  will  be  a Chakrawarti,  a universal  monarch ; or,  if  he 
becomes  a recluse,  -will  be  a Buddha,  wdio  ■will  remove  the 
veils  of  ignorance  and  sin  from  the  world ; one  who  will 
make  all  worlds  glad  by  the  sweet  taste  of  the  ambrosia  of 
Nirvana.”  It  is  easy  to  see,  therefore,  why  Siam  has  the 
brirly  form  of  the  white  elephant  on  her  flags,  her  coins,  her 
medals,  and  her  temples,  and  why  the  living  animal  is  held 
in  such  sacred  honor.  Edwin  Arnold,  in  his  “ Light  of 
Asia,”  pandering  to  the  poetic  tastes  of  his  English  readers, 
makes  the  incarnation  transpire  through  the  descent  of  a 
star  which  enters  Maya’s  side  and  becomes  the  “ Enlight- 
ener of  the  World.” 

I saw  a picture  of  Buddha  in  one  of  the  halls  on  Palace 
^Mountain,  at  Petchaburee,  in  which  flames  of  fire  are  burst- 
ing from  the  top  of  his  head,  flames  wdiich  cast  a red  and 
lurid  glare  over  the  canvas  at  least,  if  not  through  the  king- 
dom of  Siam. 

To  show  how  old  some  of  their  customs  are,  here  is  the 
story  of  the  ploughing  festival,  found  in  both  the  Nepalese 
and  Ceylonese  accounts.  The  great  king  Suddhodana  goes 
out  to  celebrate  the  opening  of  the  season,  and  the  prince, 
Buddha,  is  taken  -with  him.  In  the  rejoicings  the  baby  is 
neglected.  It  then  seats  itself  cross-legged  on  the  couch, 
and  falls  into  a mystic  trance.  Though  the  shadows  of  all 
other  trees  had  turned,  the  tree  under  which  it  sat  still 
shaded  the  child.  From  this  old  myth  the  Siamese  declare 


128 


SIAM. 


that  to  this  day  the  Po  tree  never  casts  a shadow.  They 
keep  up  the  ploughing  festival,  too.  "When  God  sends  the 
rain  and  the  earth  is  made  soft  with  showers,  the  king,  who 
is  the  acknowledged  civil  head  of  the  church,  sends  a Gov- 
ernment officer  to  each  pi’ovince.  The  priests  go  out  with 
him  to  some  of  the  royal  rice-fields,  and  there  eat  their 
morning  meal.  After  this  they  bless  the  fields,  and  the 
officer  ploughs  a furrow  or  two,  and  then  any  farmer  can 
begin  his  spring  work.  ^Gien  we  remember  that  history 
places  Guatama’s  birth  five  hundred  years  before  Christ, 
we  see  how  time-honored  is  this  custom  of  the  ploughing 
festival ! 

It  is  frequently  stated  that  Buddhism  is  supported  in 
Siam  at  an  annual  cost  of  $25,000,000.  "With  a population 
of  10,000,000,  this  would  only  be  $2.50  capita.  One 
could  easily  imagine  their  religion  cost  them  more  than 
that.  We  seldom  go  out  but  we  meet  persons  on  their 
Avay  to  or  from,  the  temjiles,  and  they  never  go  empty- 
handed.  The  most  fragrant  fiowers ; the  largest,  ripest, 
and  most  luscious  fruits ; the  whitest  rice ; the  most  savory 
curry  and  daintiest  sweetmeats ; the  richest  and  best  of  ffil 
food  and  drink,  are  daily  offered.  Scores  of  people,  who 
may  never  have  a coat  or  jacket  for  their  own  bodies,  will 
yet  buy  yards  and  yards  of  white  cloth,  and  give  it  for 
funeral  and  other  ceremonies,  or  dye  it  yellow  for  the 
priests.  It  is  estimated  that  at  least  ten  thousand  priests 
are  supported  in  Bangkok,  and  I heard  a gentleman  say  a 
few  days  ago  that  in  a fishing  village  near  here,  numbering 
some  six  hundred  inhabitants,  they  support  no  less  than 
forty  priests  in  their  temple.  This  would  be  eqiial  to 
every  fifteen  Americans  supporting  a minister,  but  with 
this  mai’ked  difference  in  the  two  countries,  that  the  priort 
has  better  food  and  clothing  than  any  of  his  ])arishioners. 

Besides  all  that  is  given  at  the  temples,  they  feed  hungry 
dogs  and  cats  and  beggars,  and  then’  spirit-offerings  aa-e 


SIAM'S  RELIGION. 


129 


found  daily  by  the  wayside,  hanging  to  the  branches  of  the 
trees,  or  set  in  little  idol-houses  in  the  midst  of  their 
gardens.  Then  they  set  up  banners,  pennons,  and  spirit 
flags.  During  the  dreadful  cholera  of  1881  and  1882 
these  flags  were  to  be  seen  at  almost  every  house,  signify- 
ing that  the  inmates  were  in  league  with  and  willing  to 
M’orship  the  evil  spirits,  and  should  on  that  account  not  be 
stricken  with  death  by  the  spirits’  terrible  cholera.  Also 
for  miles  through  the  city  streets  little  lanterns  were  strung 
up  to  tall  bamboo  poles,  and  there  they  twinkled  and  shone 
all  night  long  to  guide  the  spirits  through  the  air,  so  they 
need  not  descend  into  the  streets  below  to  trouble  or  molest 
the  people.  They  also  believe  in  charms,  shells,  and  bones. 
Almost  every  imaginable  ev^ent  in  life,  and  their  very  plays 
and  pastimes,  call  for  some  religious  observance,  and  they 
usually  demand  more  or  less  outlay.  Our  hearts  are  filled 
with  pity  for  them,  bound  hand  and  foot  in  superstition 
and  sin,  and  religious  ceremonies  which  neither  break  the 
one  nor  take  away  the  other.  — 

Buddhism  has  no  Saviour,  no  Helper,  no  one  to  hear 
prayer.  Some  of  our  latest  converts,  when  asked  why  they 
came  to  us,  said  : “We  are  sinners,  and  we  hear  that  your 
God  helps.”  Another  said  once : “ I have  studied  many 
religions,  and  I have  found  no  god  that  loves  as  your  God 
loves.”  Ah ! that  is  it ; and  just  here  we  see  the  mighty 
power  of  Christianity. 

Buddha  had  a long  and  active  ministry  of  forty-five 
years,  and  died  honored  and  revered  at  fourscore  among 
his  disciples.  Christ,  after  a short  ministry  of  three  and  a 
half  years,  was  cut  ofl^,  ignominiously  crucified,  despised 
and  rejected  of  men.  But  by  the  diGne  power  of  His 
Godhead  He  came  off  more  than  conqueror;  and  by  His 
glorious  resurrection  He  abolished  death  and  brought  life 
and  immortality  to  light,  and  by  the  boundless  power  of 
Ilis  ahnighty  love  He  subdues  His  bitterest  enemies,  and 
6* 


A 


130 


SIAM. 


makes  them  His  loyal,  faithful  subjects,  ready  even  to  die 
for  the  honor  of  His  matchless  name  ! 

They  say  that  Buddha  attained  Nirvana,  but  not  one  cry 
of  suffering  humanity  ever  disturbs  his  repose,  or  turns  his 
heart  with  quick  throbs  of  love  and  pity,  or  stretches  forth 
his  hand  to  save.  But  Christ  ever  liveth  to  make  inter- 
cession for  us,  and  while  we  are  yet  speaking  He  hears,  and 
before  we  call  our  requests  are  granted.  "What  is  Nirv^ajia 
compared  to  that  heaven  where  Christ  dwells — in  whose 
presence  there  is  fulness  of  joy,  and  at  whose  right  hand 
there  are  pleasures  forevermore ! Since  Christ  is  true, 
and  His  the  only  w'ay  to  escape  from  death  and  reach  that 
“ glad  city  of  peace  ” which  all  souls  long  for,  let  us  do 
with  oiu’  might  for  these  poor  Siamese  Buddhists,  and  help 
sound  the  glad  tidings  through  all  the  kingdom. 


CIIAPTEE  XIV. 


IDOLS. 

Although  one  of  the  common  maxims  of  the  pi-iests  of 
Siam  is,  “ Make  no  idols  of  any  kind,”  yet  the  laud  is  full 
of  images.  We  see  them  everywhere,  the  almost  universal 
type — motionless,  senseless,  inane  Buddhas.  But  it  is  a 
mistake  to  suppose  they  are  all  images  of  Guatama.  The 
Siamese,  like  most  worshippers  of  the  Buddhas,  believe  in 
past,  present,  and  future  gods ; and  while  Guatama  is  the 
latest  incarnation,  and  his  images  are  more  numerous  than 
any  others,  still  we  often  see  images  of  past  Buddlias,  as 
“ 2fo1c-aAah  ” and  “ Salee-hoot,^’’  on  either  side  of  Guatama’s 
idol,  and  the  image  of  Maitre,^^  also  called  See-ahn^^  by 
the  Siamese ; the  futui’e  Buddha  of  kindness  and  mercy, 
who  is  supposed  to  he  living  a happy  life  in  heaven  now, 
but  who  will  ultimately  attain  Buddhahood  and  reach  the 
matchless  state  of  Nirvana.  His  image  is  usually  distin- 
guished from  others  by  having  a five  or  seven  storied  um- 
brella over  it.  The  worship  of  all  these  images  is  “ utterly 
contrary  to  the  original  teaching  of  Guatama,  which  knew 
nothing  of  God,  taught  that  AraJiats,  holy  men,  were  bet- 
ter than  gods,  and  acknowledged  no  form  of  prayer.” 

Among  the  famous  idols  of  Siam  the  image  at  Wat  Pra 
Kean,  at  Bangkok,  perhaps  stands  at  the  head.  Then  there 
are  the  gigantic  sleeping  idols,  one  at  Wat  Po  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  long  and  forty  feet  high,  entirely  overlaid 
with  plate  gold ; and  its  companion  in  Petchaburee,  of 
ecpial  bulk,  which  I have  described  at  length  in  another 
place.  I have  also  heard  of  a monstrous  image  above  Ayu- 

(131) 


132 


SIAM. 


thia,  the  old  capital,  said  to  be  two  hundred  feet  high.  But 
I think  this  must  include  the  pedestal  and  mount  upon 
which  it  rests.  It  sits  in  the  usual  listless  tailor  fashion, 
with  its  broad,  flat-bottomed  feet  folded  m the  lap.  It  is 
the  largest  idol  in  Siam,  hut  it  is  abandoned  by  its  former 
worshippers,  and  the  walls  of  the  old  temple  which  once 
enclosed  it  have  crumbled  into  decay.  It  is  called  a 
PaAe-lV'  because  it  is  to  perpetuate  the  legend  of  Guata- 
ma’s  hermit  life,  when  he  was  still  a Prasudony  in  the 
forest,  where  the  elephant  and  the  monkey  ministered  to 
him.  Images  of  these  two  devout  animals  were  originally 
crouched  at  ite  base,  as  you  can  still  see  them  in  attendance 
on  a similar  Pra-Paleli  in  the  Royal  Cave  at  Petchahuree. 
In  its  lonely  desertion  it  reminds  one  of  poor  old  Dia  Butze, 
the  colossal  bronze  Buddha  of  Japan,  which  has  borne  the 
storms  of  six  centuries,  and  been  worshipped  by  milhons 
of  benighted  souls. 

In  the  old  Siamese  history  we  read  that  there  was  a fam- 
ine in  805  (a.d.  III:-!),  and  rice  sold  for  $1.50  a bucket — 
about  four  times  the  usual  price ; and  the  reigning  king, 
to  please  the  gods  and  avert  another  famine,  instead  of 
helping  the  poor  and  needy  subjects  of  his  realm,  “ cast 
five  hundred  and  fifty  images  of  Buddha,  representing  him 
in  so  many  previous  states  of  being,  before  he  became  di- 
■\Ine.”  About  forty  years  later,  in  the  reign  of  Rama  Ti- 
haicdee  II.,  a large  standing  idol  was  cast.  It  was  fifty- 
two  feet  high.  The  face  was  six  and  a half  feet  long,  and 
about  five  feet  wide.  It  was  nearly  eighteen  feet  across 
the  breast.  The  metal  of  which  it  was  made — a compo- 
sition of  gold,  silver,  iron,  brass,  and  lead — weighed  fifty- 
three  thousand  catties.  The  gold  with  which  it  was  cov- 
ered alone  was  two  hundred  and  sixty-eight  catties,  equal 
to  $219,600 ! The  gold  over  the  front  lacked  Init  one- 
sixteenth  of  being  absolutely  pure.  'When  finished  it  was 
consecrated  and  given  the  name  of  “ Pm  Seesanj>et  ” — the 


IDOLS. 


133 


“ All-knowing  One.”  But  in  this  year  of  our  Lord  18S4 
all  that  remains  of  the  “ All-knowing  One,”  and  the  tem- 
ple and  grounds  devoted  to  his  use  and  service,  is  the  old 
site  covered  with  ruins,  about  which  clings  but  the  memory 
of  a name — “ Wat-Praseesanpetdaram.” 

The  twentieth  king  in  the  first  dynasty  “ made  three 
golden  idols  and  two  silver  ones.  When  finished  he  had  a 
grand  festival,  with  boat-races  and  idol-processions,  for 
seven  days.”  From  those  olden  times  down  to  the  present 
all  the  kings  of  Siam  have  made  idols  and  worshipped 
them,  and  while  I write  to-day,  no  doubt  many  new  ones 
are  in  process  of  formation. 

Embedded  in  some  of  these  images,  especially  those 
made  of  brick  and  mortar,  they  have  pretended  bone-relics 
of  the  Buddha,  and  just  this  morning  my  Siamese  teacher 
was  telling  me  that  at  the  end  of  this  dispensation  the 
widely  scattered  relics  of  Guatama  ^vill  assemble  in  one 
place,  “ bone  to  his  bone  ” (as  Ezekiel  saw  in  the  valley  of 
vision),  and  forming  a perfect  human  frame,  will  become 
a component  part  of  the  new  incarnate  Buddha-Maitre, 
who  will  then  appear  to  bless  the  world  ! 

During  a late  visit  to  Bangkok  I secured  the  following 
essay,  written  by  one  of  the  students*  in  the  King’s 
School,  on  “Idols  and  Idol-makers”: 

‘ ‘ In  the  place  where  the  idol-makers  do  their  work  you  will 
see  tools  of  vaiious  kinds,  made  of  iron  and  brass,  such  as 
bellows,  chisels,  augers,  pincers,  and  hammers.  There  is  a 
furnace  made  of  soft  clay  or  brick.  It  is  about  three  feet  high. 
The  shape  of  it  is  square,  and  the  walls  are  four  or  five  inches 
thick,  but  the  mouth  of  the  furnace  is  round. 

“There  are  many  kinds  of  idols.  Some  are  made  of  gold, 
some  of  silver,  and  some  of  brass.  Tlie  small  silver  images  are 
made  by  haimnering  silver  until  it  becomes  very  thin.  Tliey 
,then  take  a wooden  model,  in  shape  like  an  idol,  and  cover  it 


* Nai  Chote. 


134 


S/AM. 


carefully  with  the  silver-leaf,  and  then  pull  out  the  model  and 
IJOur  in  melted  pitch  instead.  The  second  kind  is  made  in  this 
way : They  take  soft  clay  and  sand  and  mix  them  thoroughly, 
and  mould  it  in  any  shape  as  they  please,  and  cover  it  again 
with  wax  about  one  inch  thick.  Then  they  cover  it  vdth  mud 
and  dry  it  in  the  sun.  When  it  is  dry  they  heat  it  to  melt  tlie 
wax  out.  When  the  wax  flows  out  they  pour  in  melted  brass. 
Tlien,  when  it  is  cool,  they  knock  the  clay  out  and  cover  the  idol 
with  black  pitch  for  about  two  days,  and  then  plate  it  vdth  gold. 
The  thu'd  kind  ai’e  those  made  of  brick  and  lime.  They  mix  the 
lime  with  molasses,  and  build  the  idol  in  the  shape  of  a man. 
When  it  is  flnished  they  cover  it  with  black  j>itch,  and  when 
diy  they  overlay  it  with  gold.  The  fourth  kind  is  made  of 
teak-wood,  by  carving  it  with  a chisel  in  the  form  of  Buddha 
sitting  or  standing  as  the  owner  pleases,  and  sometimes  they 
cover  it  with  black  pitch  and  overlay  it  with  gold  in  the  usual 
manner.  Sometimes  they  take  pieces  of  glass  and  ornament 
them.  The  fifth  kind  is  made  in  this  way : They  make  a mould 
of  stone,  and  take  soft  clay  and  press  it  in  the  mould,  and  form 
a ‘ Pra  Pirn,  ’ a printed  god.  They  take  many  of  these  and  stick 
tliem  to  a board  about  two  feet  long  and  one  foot  wide,  and  then 
gild  them.  There  are  other  kinds  of  images,  but  they  are  only 
painted  on  the  wall  with  different  colei’s. 

“ When  the  image  is  not  yet  gilded,  and  when  the  eyes  made 
of  pearl  have  not  yet  been  j)ut  in,  they  think  that  it  is  not  a 
Buddha,  and  they  do  not  worship  it.  The  act  of  putting  in  the 
eyes  is  a great  ceremony.  After  the  idol  is  made  in  the  form  of 
Buddha,  the  owner  will  select  a holy  day  to  cover  it  with  gold 
and  put  in  the  eyes.  On  the  day  appointed  he  invites  priests  to 
come  and  say  prayers  to  it,  and  all  his  relatives  come  and  cover 
it  with  gold  and  put  in  the  eyes.  ” 

I have  also  the  following  account  from  a friend,  a close 
observer,  who  went  to  see  for  himself  just  how  the  work 
is  done : 

“In  making  the  larger  idols,  those  varying  from  about  one  to 
eight  feet  in  height,  and  usually  in  a sitting  posture,  they  fii'st 
make  a model  of  the  figure  in  wax.  Into  this  model  they  stick 
small  nails  a few  inches  apart,  and  projecting  slightly.  Then  the 
image  is  covex’ed  with  a coating  of  fine  sand,  mixed  with  clay. 


IDOLS. 


135 


sufficiently  wet  to  be  easily  moulded.  The  projecting  nails 
serve  to  prevent  the  coating  from  falling  off  before  it  becomes 
hard.  After  it  has  been  di’ied  in  the  sun,  the  idol  is  put  into  a 
furnace  and  burned,  when  the  wax  melts,  and,  numing  out,  is 
collected  for  use  another  time.  Melted  brass  is  then  poured  over 
the  image,  and  evenly  spread,  imtil  the  whole  sm-face  is  covered 
■with  a thin  coat  of  the  metal.  A smoothing  and  polishing  pro- 
cess finishes  the  work,  and  the  resplendent  image  is  ready  for 
the  adoration  of  the  multitude. 

“The  small  sUver  idols  are  made  in  a different  way.  The 
maker  has  a hard-wood  model  called  a type.  He  takes  common 
coin  silver,  beats  it  out  into  a thin  sheet,  and  covers  the  model, 
pressing  it  close  in  every  part  rmtil  it  assumes  the  exact  shape 
desired.  It  is  largest  at  the  lower  end,  winch  is  left  open  that 
the  model  may  be  drawn  out.  Melted  pitch  is  poured  into  the 
hollow  shell  of  silver-leaf,  and  then  the  idol  is  polished,  usually 
with  fine  sand.  Probably  there  are  other  ways  of  making  idols, 
but  these  two  methods  are  all  that  I am  familiar  ^fith,  and  they 
are  the  most  common.  But  there  are  indications  that  in  the  not 
far  distant  future  all  the  idols  in  this  country  will  be  cast — cast 
to  the  moles  and  the  bats.  May  the  time  come  quickly.” 

The  penalties  for  profaning  an  idol  are  very  severe.  In 
the  forty-eighth  section  of  the  Siamese  Civil  Code  we  read, 
that 

— “ if  a thief  steal  an  image  of  Buddha,  and  use  various  devices 
for  getting  off  its  ornaments,  as  washing  or  smelting,  let  him  be 
put  into  a furnace  and  treated  in  the  same  way  as  he  treated  the 
image,  and  thus  i^ay  for  his  wickedness,  and  make  thorough 
work  of  it. 

“Section  49.  If  any  thief  strip  a Buddhist  image  of  its  gold 
or  gilding,  let  him  be  taken  to  a public  square,  and  a red-hot 
iron  xTibbed  over  him  till  he  is  stripped  of  his  skin  as  he  stripped 
the  image  of  its  gold,  and  thus  pay  for  his  crime.  If  a thief 
scratch  off  the  gold  from  a Buddhist  image,  pagoda,  temple,  or 
sacred  tree,  let  hLs  fingers  be  cut  off. 

“ Section  52.  If  any  malicious  person  dig  into  or  imdennine 
a Buddhist  image,  a pagoda,  or  temple,  he  Ls  hable  to  punish- 
ment in  thi’ee  ways;  First,  to  be  flogged  sixty  lashes;  second 
to  have  his  fingera  cut  off ; third,  to  be  killed.” 


136 


SIAM. 


Buddhist  images  always  represent  a human  figure,  with 
a bland,  sleepy-loohing,  beardless  face,  having  all  the  toes 
and  fingers  of  an  equal  length,  and  ears  extending  to  tlie 
shoulders.  Some  deny  they  worship  these  images,  saying 
they  only  serve  to  remind  them  of  the  great  teacher,  to 
whom  they  direct  their  thoughts.  But  this  is  only  Satan’s 
subterfuge,  who  is  always  ready  with  a lie  when  cornered. 

Buddliism  was  introduced  into  China  soon  after  the  birth 
of  our  Saviour.  It  is  a wonderful  fact,  that  a record  is 
made  in  the  Chinese  Mirror,  or  History,  tliat  in  a.d.  50, 
the  Emperor  Ming  saw  in  a dream  a golden  man  flying 
about  his  palace,  which  dream  was  interpreted  by  his  cour- 
tiers to  mean  that  the  “ holy  one  ” was  to  be  found  in  the 
IVest.  This  so  interested  him  that  he  sent  a deputation  to 
India,  who  returned  with  some  priests  and  images  of  Buddha 
from  Ceylon.  Had  the  messengers  gone  a little  further 
toward  the  west,  they  might  have  found  indeed  the  Holy 
One,  Christ  the  Son  of  the  li-ving  God. 

It  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  those  first  images  of 
Buddha  from  Ceylon  became  the  pattern  for  all  in  China, 
and  I have  no  doubt  similar  ones  were  brought  to  Siam 
with  the  early  Buddhist  missionaries  from  that  spicy  isle. 
In  these  later  days  other  missionaries  have  come,  telling  of 
a purer  and  holier  faith,  and  we  who  believe  in  its  doctrines 
and  predictions  know  that  not  only  in  China  and  Siam, 
but  all  over  the  pagan  world,  the  image  of  Christ  shall  be 
reflected  in  countless  hearts,  and  the  people  themselves  will 
grow  more  and  more  in  perfect  likeness  to  Him.  As  I 
write  this  sentence  there  comes  up  to  me  the  sound  of  chil- 
dren’s voices  from  the  mission-school  chanting  in  concert, 
“ Our  Father,  who  art  in  heaven,  hallowed  be  Thy  Hame; 
Thy  kingdom  come  ! ” Already  we  hear  the  rustle  of  the 
banners  and  the  tread  of  the  Lord’s  hosts.  Although  of 
Siam  it  may  be  said,  “ Their  land  also  is  full  of  idols ; they 
worship  the  work  of  them  o^vn  hands,  that  which  their  own 


IDOLS. 


137 


fingers  have  made  yet  when  the  power  of  God  is  manifest- 
ed “ He  alone  will  be  exalted  in  that  day,  and  the  idols  He 
shall  utterly  abolish.”  “ In  that  day  a man  shall  cast  his 
idols  of  silver,  and  his  idols  of  gold,  which  they  made  each 
one  for  himself,  to  worship,  to  the  moles  and  to  the  hats.” 
“ So  shall  they  fear  the  name  of  the  Lord  from  the  west, 
and  His  glory  from  the  rising  of  the  sun.” 


CHAPTER  XV. 


irOXASTEKIES  OE  WATS. 

This  word  “ waV’’  is  one  that  is  heard  all  over  Siam.  A 
wat  proper,  includes  the  temple  buildings,  priests'  houses, 
sidas,  pagodas,  bell -towers,  and  indeed  everything  inside 
the  enclosure  of  the  temple  grounds.  These  grounds  are 
sometimes  very  extensive,  covering  many  acres,  and  they 
hold  many  beautiful  trees,  and  wide  stretches  of  level 
ground,  with  lily-ponds,  and  paved  paths  leading  from  one 
temple  to  another.  These  wats  are  often  surrounded  by 
high  brick  walls,  having  ornamented  gate-ways.  The  gates 
stand  open  day  and  night,  for  monasteides  in  Siam  are  ref- 
uges for  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  men.  I do  not  hesitate 
to  say  that  many  of  the  worst  characters  of  the  land  are  to 
be  found,  or  at  least  are  in  hiding,  at  these  Buddhist  tem- 
ples. As  the  people  are  religiously  careful  not  to  take  the 
life  of  any  living  creature,  all  miserable  beasts,  sm’plus 
pups  and  kittens,  and  old  worn-out  fighting-cocks,  are  liber- 
ated in  the  wat  grounds,  and  are  barely  kept  alive  by  what 
falls  from  the  priests’  tables.  Moreover,  the  dying  Buddhist 
often  wills  his  pigs  to  the  wat,  and  they  are  allowed  to  run, 
hunting  their  hving  where  they  can.  As  they  are  con- 
sidered “ consecrated  things,”  no  one  will  kiU  them,  or  buy 
or  seU  them,  and  they  and  their  descendants  become  a pub- 
lic nuisance.  In  a remarkably  short  time,  too,  they  seem 
to  revert  to  their  wild  state.  Being  left  to  root  or  die,  na- 
ture kindly  accommodates  herseK  to  the  environment : the 
snout  lengthens  and  hai’dens,  and  the  teeth  become  strong, 
sharp  tusks  capable  of  rending  and  breaking.  I have  seen 
these  temple  pigs  come  crashing  through  the  hedges  with 
(138) 


MONASTERIES  OR  IV ATS. 


139 


bristles  erect  along  the  spine,  and  great  tnsk-like  teeth  over 
which  it  was  impossible  to  close  their  lips. 

Many  of  the  wats  border  on  the  rivers  and  canals,  and 
these  have  boats,  boat-houses,  and  often  very  pretty  boat- 
landings,  wnth  steps  going  down  to  the  water.  There  are 
no  inns  in  Siam,  and  nearly  all  travel  is  done  by  boat.  You 
have  to  carry  your  bed  and  provisions  along.  These  wats 
afford  pleasant  camping-grounds,  and  no  one  ever  objected 
to  our  landing  and  appropriating  a sala,  or  open  porch,  to 
our  use.  We  are  allowed  to  stroll  or  rest  under  the  trees, 
and  even  sit  on  the  temple  steps.  The  priests  usually  re- 
ceive us  with  indifference ; sometimes  they  will  answer 
questions,  sometimes  not ; and  if  you  offer  them  a book,  or 
any  other  article,  they  ^vill  never  receive  it  from  a lady’s 
hand,  because  they  think  that  such  an  act  would  defile 
them.  But  you  may  lay  it  down  near  them,  or  throw  it 
upon  the  ground,  and  they  will  pick  it  up  without  any 
compxmction.  I have  heard  of  a lady  whose  husband  in- 
dulged in  costly  cigars,  a box  of  which  he  usually  kept  upon 
his  table.  Priests  like  them,  too ; and  when  they  called, 
politeness  demanded  that  they  be  offered.  She  would  pass 
the  box  to  each  one,  and  then  quietly  place  it  beyond  their 
reach  with  all  the  precious  store  intact. 

Every  wat  is  commenced  by  the  erection  of  a temple 
called  the  Oobosot  or  Bote.  This  is  to  give  shelter  to  im- 
ages of  Buddha.  There  may  be  many  other  idol-houses 
clustered  about  it,  but  this  is  to  be  the  mother  building,  as 
it  were.  Every  bote  of  a wat  is  publicly  dedicated  to  the 
priesthood,  which  is  a practical  acknowledgment  by  all  who 
have  contributed  to  its  erection,  that  the  plot  of  ground 
defined  by  the  eight  landmarks  was  given  by  the  supreme 
ruler  of  the  kingdom  to  no  one  in  particular,  but  to  the 
priesthood  in  general,  for  the  express  pui-poses  of  a temple, 
being  forever  inalienable  as  such ; and  that  the  bote  and 
the  idol  in  it,  and  all  the  woi’ks  in  the  wat,  are  entirely  and 


140 


S/AAf. 


perpetually  consecrated  to  the  priesthood.  It  is  a remark- 
able fact  that  they  have  no  god  to  whom  they  can  conse- 
crate them.  Vast  numbers  of  people  assemble,  and  the 
dedication  ceremonies  sometimes  last  seven  days,  with  fire- 
works each  night.  If  it  is  a royal  wat,  the  king  himself 
is  usually  present,  and  when  he  finishes  the  service  of 
dedication  the  representative  priests  respond  with  one  Amice, 
“ Good,  good ; let  the  work  go  on  to  completion.”  They 
then  join  in  a chant  at  the  boundaries  of  the  bote,  which 
are  set  at  each  of  the  eight  points  of  the  compass.  At  these 
points  they  bury  round  stones  overlaid  with  gold-leaf,  and 
the  assembled  devotees  cast  offerings  into  each  place — ^gold 
and  silver  ornaments  and  coins,  needles  and  human  hair — 
the  latter  with  the  prayer  that  their  intellects  may  be  as 
keen  and  sharp  as  needles  in  the  nest  world,  and  then’  hair 
finer  than  the  finest  buried  there.  Afterward  a little  mon- 
ument is  erected  over  these  buried  treasures.  On  the  top 
of  each  is  set  a stone,  carA’ed  in  the  shape  of  a prickly-pear 
leaf.  This  enclosure  is  the  most  sacred  place  on  the  wat 
grounds.  Not  even  an  idol  or  a priest  can  be  made  or  con- 
secrated outside  its  limits.  At  every  new  and  full  moon 
the  priests  must  assemble  within  the  bote  and  Hsten  to  the 
reading  of  the  two  hundred  and  twenty-seven  statutes  of 
Buddha.  The  king,  in  his  annual  visitations  to  the  roy«il 
Wats,  proceeds  directly  to  the  bote,  and  makes  his  offerings 
to  the  priesthood  in  that  place.  There  the  oath  is  often 
administered,  and  people  go  to  make  their  vows ; and  as  a 
priest  must  literally  “ owe  no  man  anything,”  when  he  pre- 
sents himself  for  orders  he  is  asked  if  his  debts  are  all  paid. 
If  there  are  any  creditors  who  have  not  yet  had  their  claims 
settled,  they  must  be  present  to  prove  his  indebtedness ; 
sometimes  the  accusation  is  made  before  the  bote,  and  if 
the  claim  is  proven  vahd,  proceedings  stop  until  some  one 
has  assumed  its  payment,  when  the  priest  may  be  duly  con- 
secrated to  the  sernce  of  self  and  Buddha. 


MONASTERIES  OR  WATS. 


141 


Images  of  tlie  Buddha  may  be  found  by  the  score  in  ev- 
ery wat.  They  are  made  of  brick  and  mortar,  stone,  wood, 
gold  and  silver,  brass  and  copper,  and  vary  in  size  from 
two  or  three  inches  to  one  hundred  and  forty  feet.  The 
larger  ones  of  course  are  stationary,  but  others  are  carried 
about,  sometimes  placed  in  salas,  and  sometimes  found  in 
the  little  rooms  of  the  priests.  A “ sola  ” is  like  a large  or- 
namented room,  open  on  all  sides,  where  the  people  gather 
to  listen  to  the  worship,  the  preaching,  the  services  for  the 
dead  and  living,  or  to  look  at  theatrical  performances. 

The  priests’  houses  are  built  in  rows,  and  what  I have 
seen  are  not  arranged  at  all  like  the  cells  of  the  Romish, 
monks.  Indeed,  many  of  them  are  the  ordinary  native 
houses,  bequeathed  by  their  former  owners  to  the  wat,  and 
after  their  death  taken  down  and  “planted”  within  the 
sacred  enclosure.  They  are  occupied  by  one  or  more 
priests,  according  to  the  number  who  have  to  be  accom- 
modated in  the  monastery.  They  are  seldom  swept  or 
cleansed,  and  are  infested  with  vermin ; the  cobwebs  cur- 
tain the  windows  and  hang  in  festoons  from  the  inside  of 
the  roof,  as  there  is  no  ceiling;  and  dust  settles  every- 
where. Of  what  we  call  furniture  there  is  none,  but  you 
may  find  a mat  on  the  fioor,  with  a stone,  a block  of  wood, 
or  a soiled  bag  of  cotton  for  a pillow ; a box,  a lamp,  a few 
old  books,  arrangements  for  betel,  a spittoon,  and  usually  a 
string  stretched  across  one  corner,  whereon  they  hang  their 
extra  yellow  cloths.  I am  now  speaking  of  ordinary  wats 
as  found  throughout  the  kingdom.  The  royal  monasteries 
of  Bangkok,  I hope,  are  much  better,  but  I have  never 
visited  them. 

Every  wat  has  a high-priest  or  abbot,  and  subordinate 
officers.  Of  course,  the  abbot’s  house  is  better  than  the 
others — more  cleanly — and  there  are  a few  chairs,  perhaps, 
a table,  a chest  of  drawers,  a clock,  a brass  or  silver  teapot- 
with  china  cups,  and  a few  metal  trays  for  food.  There 


142 


SIAM. 


may  be  strips  of  matting  on  tbe  floor,  and  somewhere 
about  tbe  room  his  immense  fan  and  umbrella,  insignia 
of  otfice,  and  near  the  door  a pair  of  rough  leathern 
sandals.  These  are  made  so  rudely  that  you  can  count 
the  layers  of  leather  in  the  sole  and  every  stitch  with  which 
they  are  held  together,  and  they  have  an  odd  little  strap 
near  the  front  that  comes  up  between  the  great  toe  and 
the  one  next  to  it,  and  with  the  aid  of  another  strap  across 
the  front  of  the  foot  keeps  the  sandal  on.  Buddhism 
teaches  that  it  is  a sin  for  priests  to  wear  shoes  that  cover 
the  toes,  thus  proving  its  tropical  origin  and  the  ignorance 
of  its  Southern  followers,  who  do  not  know  that  half  the 
world  is  so  cold  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  keep  such  a 
rule  and  save  one’s  toes  and  sole. 

Many  of  the  wats  have  sweet-toned  bells,  hanging  in 
beautiful  bell-towers.  These  towers  are  never  very  lofty, 
and  are  built  separate  from  the  temple.  They  ai’e  usually 
plastered  brick-work,  squai’e  at  the  base,  with  a rounded 
dome  or  a pagoda  spire,  supported  by  arches  of  masonry. 
They  never  ring  these  bells  as  we  do,  but  climb  the  steps 
and  strike  them.  There  is  one  in  a wat  over  the  river 
from  my  mission-home  that  we  often  hear  on  Sabbath 
evenings.  Its  tones,  clear  and  sweet,  floating  out  on  the 
quiet  air,  always  remind  me  of  home  and  the  dear  church 
bells  ringing  so  far  away,  and  in  my  heai’t  is  a great  long- 
ing to  go  to  the  house  of  God  and  worshij)  among  my  own 
people  and  kindred.  "We  cannot  help  growing  tired  of  the 
dusky  forms  and  faces  forever  darkening  the  sunshine  of 
this  glorious  land. 

Sometimes  a young  man  will  become  a Buddhist  priest, 
and  remain  in  the  wat,  often  in  the  same  one  where  he  was 
consecrated,  all  his  life — forty,  fifty,  and  even  sixty  years — 
and  these  old  priests  are  considered  very  holy  by  the  people. 
Mothers  will  take  their  little  boys,  and  give  them  to  be 
instructed  in  the  temple  lore,  as  did  Hannah,  the  Hebrew 


MONASTERIES  OR  WA  TS. 


143 


mother,  her  little  Samuel  to  be  with  good  old  Eli  in  the 
tabernacle  of  God.  The  boys  learn  to  Avait  upon  the 
priests,  to  carry  their  books,  betel-trays,  and  teapots,  for  in 
Siam  it  is  fashionable  to  carry  your  tea  with  you,  and  take 
it  wherever  you  please.  These  temple  boys  also  light  their 
cigars,  and  handle  the  money,  as  priests  are  forbidden  to 
touch  gold  or  silver;  and  to  serve  them  while  they  eat, 
and  pour  water  to  wash  their  hands,  as  Elisha  did  for 
Elijah,  and  as  a partial  reward  for  these  services  they  are 
graciously  allowed  to  smoke  the  ends  of  the  cigars  and  eat 
what  is  left.  There  are  many  rules  and  regulations  for  the 
Wats  and  the  priests  who  live  there,  but  they  are  very  care- 
less of  their  observance.  They  serve  more  as  tests  of  their 
sins  than  anything  else,  just  as  the  ungodly  in  civilized 
lands  could  not  know  how  sinful  they  are  if  it  were  not  for 
the  ten  commandments  of  Jehovah,  wliich  they  never  pre- 
tend to  keep. 

Very  zealous  priests  obey  the  morning  bell,  and  rise  at 
dawn,  and  dress  before  it  is  light ; others  get  up  when  they 
please.  This  bell  also  rouses  the  people  outside,  and  usually 
the  old  gi’andmother  in  eA^ery  family,  anxious  to  make 
merit  in  her  old  days  because  she  knoAvs  the  time  is  short, 
gets  up  with  many  a grunt  and  yaAvn,  and  shuffles  about  to 
have  the  rice  cooked  in  time.  At  some  wats  they  have 
worship  before  the  priests  go  out  for  their  rice.  This  con- 
sists of  praises  to  Buddha,  and  repetitions  of  laws  and  com- 
mandments. They  meet  in  one  place  and  worship  in  con- 
cert, all  speaking  or  chanting  aloud.  Then  they  go  out  to 
collect  their  food  for  the  day,  and  the  temple  boys  follow 
after,  Avith  a bag  to  hold  the  fruits  and  betel,  while  the 
priest  himself  carries  a large  iron  or  brass  basin  under  his 
cloth  in  Avhich  they  put  the  cooked  rice.  They  go  from 
house  to  house  among  their  relatives  or  old  neighbors,  or 
those  who  live  near  the  wat,  and  stand  there  looking  and 
waiting.  But  they  never  ask  for  anything,  nor  do  they 


144 


SIAM. 


thank  the  donors  for  gifts  bestowed.  Sometimes  they  mur- 
mur that  “ the  food  is  good  and  clean,  but  when  it  enters 
the  body  it  is  defiled.” 

This  morning  tour  they  call  ‘■’■jprote  saht^'  which  means, 
“ being  gracious  to  the  beasts,”  as  they  consider  it  very 
meritorious  in  them  to  condescend  to  go  and  stand  where 
the  “beasts”  outside  the  monasteries  can  make  merit  by 
giving  them  food.  The  foolish  donors,  before  and  after 
they  have  made  their  offering,  clasp  their  hands  in  holy 
adoration  to  the  self-righteous,  proud,  yellow-robed  figures 
before  them.  If  they  stop  at  the  homes  of  any  of  the  boys 
that  follow,  these  little  chaps  can  slip  up  the  steps  and  see 
their  friends  and  get  a few  extra  tilings  if  they  like.  After 
they  have  gone  their  rounds  they  return  to  the  wat  and 
eat  what  they  need  for  their  morning  meal.  The  boys 
scramble  for  their  portion,  and  what  they  leave  is  thrown 
to  the  dogs,  cats,  pigs,  monkeys,  and  chickens  that  wait  un- 
der and  about  the  wat  houses.  lYhen  breakfast  is  over  they 
teach  the  boys  to  read  and  write ; the  doctors  make  medi- 
cine, and  those  who  have  writing  to  do  attend  to  that.  The 
sacred  books  are  nearly  all  written  and  copied  there,  or  by 
noble  ladies,  who  present  them  to  the  wat,  or  to  certain 
priests  as  they  please.  The  king  often  orders  the  wats  to 
prepare  for  his  great  occasions,  and  then  the  priests  must 
go  to  work,  making  pictures,  paper  flowers,  pasteboard  ani- 
mals and  birds  of  impossible  shapes  and  sizes,  images  and 
fireworks.  And  when  they  build  temples  or  bridges,  or 
funeral  pyres  for  royalty,  the  priests  even  help  to  cut  the 
logs  in  the  forests,  float  them  down,  and  saw  them  with 
their  own  sacred  hands. 

About  eleven  o’clock  in  the  morning  they  strike  the  bell 
or  the  gong,  and  all  assemble  and  eat  once  more.  They 
never  ask  a blessing  on  their  food,  nor  offer  thanks  for  it  as 
Christians  do,  but  after  they  have  eaten,  they  pray  that  the 
donors  of  the  food  may  receive  a blessing,  and  in  doing 


MONASTERIES  OR  WATS. 


145 


tliis,  they  think  they  make  merit  for  themselves  also.  From 
this  noon-meal  until  the  next  morning  they  are  forbidden 
to  eat  anything  at  all,  hut  they  may  drink  tea,  chew  betel, 
and  smoke  to  their  heart’s  content.  Even  medicine,  if  it 
contain  aught  that  is  used  as  food,  cannot  be  taken  after 
this  meal,  and  they  strain  and  boil  the  water  they  drink  for 
fear  some  living  creature  may  be  swallowed.  They  are 
forbidden  to  eat  seeds  that  will  germinate,  or  eggs  that 
have  been  fertilized  ; for  this  reason  ducks  whose  eggs  are 
intended  for  food  are  kept  separate  from  the  flock. 

There  are  minute  directions  for  eating,  drinking,  sleep- 
ing, bathing,  dressing,  sitting,  standing,  walking,  talking, 
and  indeed  every  action  of  the  body,  mind,  and  heart,  but 
I will  only  enumerate  a few.  For  priests  it  is  a sin  to 
meddle  with  royal  affairs,  except  where  religion  is  con- 
cerned. They  should  speak  and  do  only  religious  things. 
It  is  a sin  not  to  shave  the  head  and  eyebrows  ; to  stretch 
out  your  feet  when  sitting,  to  keep  the  leavings  of  your 
meals,  to  sleep  in  exposed  places,  to  climb  a tree,  to  wash 
in  the  twilight  or  dark,  lest  some  living  creature  be  killed. 
It  is  a sin  to  preach  in  any  but  the  sacred  Pali  language, 
or  to  correct  the  translations.  It  is  a sin  to  cultivate  the 
ground,  to  cover  the  head,  to  light  a fire,  to  cook  rice,  to 
eat  and  talk  at  the  same  time,  to  let  rice  drop  from  the  lips, 
to  chew  with  a noise  like  pigs  and  dogs,  to  pick  the  teeth 
in  the  presence  of  others,  and  not  to  cleanse  the  teeth  after 
meals.  It  is  a sin  to  cough  or  sneeze  to  attract  notice,  and  to 
ask  for  food  or  any  alms.  It  is  a sin  not  to  love  everybody 
alike  1 

The  priests  are  at  hberty  through  the  day  to  go  and 
come  as  they  please ; but  all  are  ex]oected  to  be  at  the  wat 
in  time  for  evening  worship,  which  begins  at  sunset,  unless 
they  have  business  outside,  such  as  preaching,  prayers  for 
the  sick  and  dead,  or  attending  to  cremations.  Then  there 
must  be  two  or  three  together,  so  as  to  watch  each  other. 

7 


146 


SIAM. 


Tliey  retire  wlien  they  please,  and  the  little  boys  sleep  in 
the  rooms  with  their  relatives  or  friends  who  may  be  in 
the  same  wat,  or  at  the  feet  of  their  masters  hke  dogs. 

We  often  hear  of  sacred  yellow  robes  and  priestly 
gannents,  but  strictly  speaking  there  are  neither.  The 
dress  of  a Buddhist  priest  in  Siam  consists  of  seven  cloths, 
and  they  must  all  he  yellow,  for  that  is  the  sacred  as  well 
as  the  royal  color.  First,  a narrow  scarf  next  the  body, 
called  a “ sweat-cloth  then  a long,  wide  one  draped  about 
the  hips,  called  a panung^"^  or  waist-cloth  ; a narrow  scarf 
worn  as  a girdle ; then  a large  cloth,  three  yards  square, 
draped  over  the  whole  body  from  the  shoulders  to  the 
ankles,  and  if  properly  arranged  the  folds  should  cover  the 
arms  to  the  wrists ; another  large  cloth  of  the  same  size, 
folded  and  laid  across  the  left  shoulder,  and  the  ends 
allowed  to  hang  down  a little  more  at  the  back  than  in 
front;  then  another  girdle,  two  yards  long  and  three- 
quarters  wide,  holding  both  these  large  outer  cloths  in 
place.  To  top  all  is  a small  piece  called  the  pakrap^’’  or 
bowing-cloth,  because  they  use  it  to  protect  their  faces 
when  they  bow  themselves  to  the  earth  before  the  idols. 
This  cloth  is  sometimes  ornamented  with  figures  of  pagodas 
or  royal  umbrellas,  and  the  name  of  the  donor,  stamped  in 
gilt,  or  in  colors,  red,  brown,  and  black,  on  a yellow  ground. 
The  cloth  is  about  a yard  long,  and  folded  lengthwise  and 
laid  carefully  over  the  shoulder  that  the  designs  may 
appear  to  all.  Besides  these  seven  necessary  cloths,  they 
sometimes  have  a silk  or  cotton  handkerchief,  A pair  of 
sandals  are  also  considered  part  of  a complete  outfit. 
Priests  never  wear  hats — their  heads  are  considered  too 
sacred  to  support  them  ; biit  they  carry  an  umbrella  and  a 
large,  long-handled  fan  to  cover  their  faces,  and  to  shut  out 
the  sight  of  others  and  the  wicked  world  generally,  espe- 
cially while  they  preach.  The  seven  cloths  are  made  of 
little  pieces  sewed  together  in  imitation  of  the  patches  and 


MONASTERIES  OR  WATS. 


147 


rags  with  which  the  primitive  Buddhists  are  said  to  have 
been  clothed,  when  in  their  poverty  and  humility  they 
were  content  with  what  they  could  find.  Some  of  the 
cloths  now  woim  are  very  costly,  and  are  made  of  beautiful 
silk  and  crape ; and  the  many  seams  only  serve  as  the 
faintest  shadows  of  a discarded  humility.  Instead  of  being 
content,  too,  with  plain,  simple  food,  they  now  expect  and 
receive  the  best  and  daintiest  the  land  affords. 

The  yellow  priest-cloths  are  considered  so  sacred  that  no 
priest  is  allowed  to  die  in  them,  and  as  he  nears  his  end 
they  are  stripped  from  his  body  that  they  may  not  be 
defiled  by  the  touch  of  death.  Of  course,  they  are  never 
burned ; when  they  are  torn  or  damaged  or  worn  out,  in- 
stead of  being  thrown  away,  they  are  hung  on  the  branches 
or  wrapped  about  the  trunks  of  the  sacred  po  tree,  and 
devout  Buddhists  never  pass  them  without  bowing  to  the 
yellow.  If  a priest  leaves  the  monastery,  to  become  an 
ordinary  sinner  once  more,  he  either  gives  his  cloths  away 
as  a work  of  merit  to  some  of  the  inmates  of  the  wat,  or 
sells  them.  They  cannot  be  used  by  other  than  priests. 


CHAPTEK  XVI. 


MOKE  ABOUT  WATS. 

The  most  beautiful  places  in  Siam  are  tbe  wats,  except- 
ing of  coui-se  the  palaces  in  tbe  royal  city.  The  priests 
select  the  best  sites  for  their  temple  grounds,  and  plant  trees 
and  blossoming  shrubs.  They  make  lily-ponds  for  the  lovely 
pink  lotus  flowers  they  hold  so  sacred ; and  if  not  border- 
ing on  a canal  or  river,  they  dig  deep,  wide  tanks  for  rain- 
water. The  temples,  bell-towers,  salas,  and  pagodas  are 
usually  built  of  brick,  and  are  plastered  inside  and  out,  and 
ornamented  with  plaster  flgures  in  bas-relief.  These  white 
temples  and  towers,  gleaming  through  the  sacred  groves, 
are  very  beautiful.  They  are  all  white,  “ old  white,  with 
a great  deal  of  color  in  it.”  Originally  pure  white,  they 
have  been  by  nature  tinted  and  brightened  by  warm  patches 
of  mingled  sunset  colors,  and  streaks  and  bars  as  of  a shat- 
tered rainbow.  There  are  sleepy  old  columns  that  look 
as  though  they  might  have  stood  in  the  sea  and  caught  a 
tangle  of  sea-weed  of  the  most  vivid  green  about  their  feet. 
There  are  others,  again,  flecked  with  black  and  brown  as 
soft  and  deep  as  velvet.  Green  moss  and  mold,  ferns, 
air-plants,  orchids,  and  delicate  vines  are  everywhere.  Birds 
sing  among  the  trees  unmolested,  and  bright-eyed  lizards 
dart  about  in  the  sunshine  with  as  indifferent  an  air  as  the 
“ Miller  of  the  Dee.” 

The  temples  are  built  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  the  high, 
steep  roofs  are  often  supported  by  rows  of  pillars.  Siamese 
temple-roofs  are  peculiar.  They  are  arranged  so  as  to  have 
the  effect  of  two  or  three  roofs  overtopping  each  other,  and 
(148) 


MORE  ABOUT  WATS. 


149 


the  gabled  ends  are  ornamented  with  gilded  horns.  They 
are  covered  with  plain  or  fancy  tiles,  red  and  green  and 
yellow,  and  bordered  with  white.  The  walls  slope  iuwai’d 
as  they  near  the  roof,  and  even  the  doorways  and  windows 
all  have  this  peculiarity  of  narrowing  toward  the  top.  Some 
of  the  temple  doors  are  very  beautiful,  inlaid  with  ivory 
and  pearl,  and  stuccoed  with  curious  flowers  and  flgures, 
images  of  Buddha  and  his  angels,  and  lotus  lilies.  This  is 
especially  true  of  the  famous  temple  of  the  emerald  idol  at 
W at  Pra  Kean,  Bangkok.  Often  there  is  no  floor  in  the 
temple  but  the  earth.  Sometimes  they  are  covered  with  a 
hard  cement  and  tiles.  AVe  have  heard  that  there  is  money 
hidden  in  many  of  these  old  wats,  and  that  in  time  of  war 
the  natives  bury  their  treasures  under  the  idols ; and  that 
the  large  reclining  idol  at  TTa^  Pra  Kon,  in  Petchaburee, 
used  to  have  a door  in  its  back  by  wliich  you  could  enter  a 
room  in  its  interior,  where  there  was  an  altar  and  many 
precious  gifts,  but  the  door  is  now  walled  up. 

Crocodiles  are  kept  and  nourished  at  some  of  the  temples 
as  a work  of  merit.  In  some  corner  of  the  wat  there  is 
always  found  a graveyard,  where  the  bodies  of  Buddhists 
are  usually  buried  with  very  little  ceremony.  Afterward, 
it  may  be  weeks,  months,  or  even  years,  relatives  and  friends 
assemble  at  an  appointed  time,  dig  up  the  remains,  and  have 
a merit-making  and  a burning.  Three  days  after  the  cre- 
mation the  charred  bones  are  gathered,  and  if  the  family 
are  wealthy  they  are  placed  in  a costly  urn,  and  taken  to 
their  home  and  carefully  preserved.  If  poor,  they  are  tied 
in  a rag  and  deposited  in  the  wat.  Sometimes  they  are  tied 
to  the  rafters,  where  they  look  not  unlike  bunches  of  seeds, 
or  dried  herbs,  such  as  swing  from  garret-rafters  in  old 
farm-houses  at  home.  I have  seen  them  thrown  under  the 
seat  in  the  sala  where  the  priest  sits  when  he  preaches. 
Perhaps  they  are  intended  to  point  the  moral  of  his  dis- 
course. These  temple  burial-places  are  to  be  shunned. 


150 


SIAM. 


The  graves  are  often  so  shallow  that  the  hungry  pariah 
dogs  dig  up  the  bodies  and  devour  them,  and  the  vultures 
hover  around  waiting  for  a feast.  This  is  especially  true  of 
IV at  Sah  Kate  in  Bangkok,  where  the  bodies  of  very  devout 
Buddliists  ai’e  cut  to  pieces  and  thrown  to  the  dogs  and 
birds.  The  bones  ai*e  heaped  together  and  burned,  and  the 
ashes  scattered  over  the  gai’dens.  I have  heard  that  religious 
fanatics  were  sometimes  bmmed  aHve  at  Wat  Sah  Kate,  but 
I fear  that  in  these  degenerate  days  there  is  no  lazy  Siamese 
Buddhist  zealous  enough  to  devote  himself  a living  sacri- 
fice. Let  us  rejoice  that  it  is  so,  and  hope  that  many  con- 
verted ones  may  lay  themselves  upon  the  altar  of  Christian 
consecration  and  ser^■ice. 

At  some  wats  they  keep  coffins  which  they  rent  to  the 
poor.  The  body  is  placed  in  it  during  the  religious  cere- 
monies preceding  the  cremation ; it  is  then  removed  to  the 
funeral  pyre,  and  the  coffin  put  away  to  await  its  next  oc- 
cupant. 

There  is  an  order  of  Buddhist  nuns,  but  very  few  enter 
it  in  Siam.  They  must  be  elderly  women  or  widows.  They 
shave  the  head  and  dress  in  white  bke  mourners.  They 
dwell  in  separate  houses  from  the  priests,  and  their  services 
and  devotions  are  somewhat  different.  They  go  forth  at 
dawn  to  gather  their  food,  or  relatives  bring  it  to  them  to 
the  temple.  They  attend  all  the  public  services,  they  fast 
every  holy  day,  and  meditate,  and  pray  too,  I have  no 
doubt — that  is,  the  really  devout  ones,  although  they  have 
no  God  to  listen,  and  no  one  to  grant  the  petitions  of  their 
longing  hearts.  Very  few  of  them  know  how  to  read,  and 
no  children  are  committed  to  their  care,  as  to  the  priests,  to 
be  trained  for  temple  service.  They  help  care  for  the 
gi-ounds,  pulling  up  the  beautiful  green  grass  and  wild 
flowers,  and  making  the  yards  as  bare  as  their  own  desolate 
lives.  They  sweep  the  salas  and  paths,  and  gather  up  the 
fallen  leaves  of  the  sacred  po  and  other  trees,  and  pour 


MORE  ABOUT  WATS. 


151 


them  into  the  river,  or  bum  them  as  a work  of  merit. 
They  are  forbidden  to  sew  or  do  any  real  work,  so  their 
days  must  be  monotonous  enough. 

Temple  girls  such  as  are  devoted  to  lives  of  shame  in  In- 
dia are  unknown  here,  but  I dare  not  say  it  is  because  the 
people  are  purer.  It  does  not  happen  to  be  the  custom, 
that  is  all. 

It  is  distance  that  lends  enchantment  to  these  wats.  As 
you  draw  near  them,  the  illusion  is  dispelled,  for  there  are 
niide  figures  and  efligies  scattered  around,  and  on  the  very 
walls  of  the  hole  itself  before  the  eyes  of  the  blind  idols 
are  often  sketched  figures  and  scenes  that  should  never  see 
the  light.  We  were  present  once  at  a cremation  at  one  of 
the  most  frequented  temples.  There  were  scores  of  priests, 
and  they  had  all  the  usual  ceremonies.  As  we  turned  away 
we  noticed  a small  brick  enclosure,  and  asked  what  it  was. 
They  said,  “A  place  to  bathe  the  corpse.”  We  looked  in 
and  saw  a hideous  sight,  perfectly  revolting.  On  the  wall, 
painted  as  large  as  life,  and  directly  opposite  the  door,  was 
the  nude  figure  of  a man,  to  the  right  a similar  figure  of  a 
woman,  and  to  the  left  a human  skeleton.  If  these  abomi- 
nations are  allowed  in  the  sacred  enclosure  of  their  holy 
temple  grounds,  what  must  outside  heathenism  be ! We 
have  heard  something  of  the  vileness  of  doctrine  and  life 
as  preached  and  practiced  by  religious  devotees  in  India, 
and  hints  of  untellable  orgies.  Perhaps  Siam  is  not  quite 
so  bad.  I hope  not ; and  yet  the  actual  sins  of  the  so- 
called  holy  Buddhist  priests  would  make  a black,  black 
record.  If  God,  to-day,  visited  His  wrath  upon  existing 
Sodomites  as  He  did  upon  the  ancient  city,  many  of  the 
wats  of  Siam  would  be  appropriate  sites  for  Dead  Seas ! 

There  are,  it  is  said,  one  hundred  and  eight  wats  in  the 
province  of  Petchaburee  alone.  Many  of  them  are  deserted 
and  falling  into  ruin  now,  however ; but  they  show  how  costly 
the  service  of  Satan  is,  and  how  it  has  eaten  up  all  the  wealth 


152 


SIAM. 


of  this  land  through  past  centuries.  "WTiile  sailing  along 
the  risers  and  canals  I have  noticed  that  all  the  best  places 
and  most  beautiful  buildings  belonged  to  the  Buddhist  mon- 
asteries. It  reminds  one  of  the  remark  of  a traveller  in 
Mexico  as  he  ■svith  others  rode  through  some  villages  of 
earth-colored  adobe  huts,  ■Rntli  its  church  of  hewn  stone 
overlooking  them.  “ Poor  Mexico ! Many  chm’ches,  no 
schools ! All,  all  for  the  priests ; for  the  people — nothing ! ” 
So  it  is  in  poor  Siam.  Only  here  the  people  are  voluntary 
idolaters,  and  give  these  riches  to  the  priesthood.  In  Mexi- 
co the  natives  have  been  taxed,  and  the  wealth  squeezed 
from  the  poor,  ignorant,  superstitious  ones ; or  some  proud, 
tyrannical  Spaniard  ground  the  faces  of  the  poor,  and  then 
built  a huge  stone  cathedral  for  the  supposed  benefit  of  his 
own  selfish  soul. 

In  Siam,  Church  and  State  are  so  closely  united  that  I 
verily  believe  Buddhism  could  not  exist  without  the  foster- 
ing upholding  of  the  king.  He  is  crowned  with  rehgious 
ceremonies  and  priestly  consecration,  and  he  takes  the  oath 
of  allegiance  to  the  religion  of  Lord  Buddha.  He  reigns 
and  the  Government  is  maintained  for  the  support  of 
Buddhism  and  the  priesthood.  These  yellow-robed  drones 
are  the  only  ones  in  Siam  who  do  not  bow  before  the  king. 
The  king  himself  kneels  to  the  high-priest.  A.nd  it  has 
been  the  glory  of  kings  to  pour  out  their  treasures  for  the 
founding  and  repairing  of  temples,  and  the  making  of  gold 
and  silver  idols  and  offerings  for  the  priests. 

What  a glorious  time  it  will  be  when  these  gorgeous 
temples  are  given  up  to  the  worship  of  our  Lord  and 
Saviour,  the  pure  and  holy  Christ.  I believe  the  time  will 
come.  When?  That  is  a question  we  must  leave  with 
God. 


CHAPTEK  XYII. 


BUDDHIST  SHKINES. 

Judged  by  outward  appearances,  one  miglit  say  that 
Siam  is  a very  devout  kingdom,  for  the  land  is  filled  from 
end  to  end  witli  idols  and  priests,  temples  and  pagodas ; 
there  are  also  wayside  shrines,  holy  wells  and  caves,  and 
footprints,  and  trees,  and  rocks,  and  shadows.  Only  the 
faithful  can  see  the  latter,  and  only  the  very  ignorant 
believe  in  them  all. 

The  most  noted  shrine  in  Siam  is  that  of  TTat  Pra  Kean, 
or  the  Temple  of  the  Emerald  Idol  in  Bangkok.  It  occu- 
pies a walled  enclosure  inside  the  double  city  walls.  It  is 
near  the  king’s  palace,  and  easy  of  access  to  the  ladies  of 
the  royal  harem ; in  one  sense  it  is  the  king’s  private 
chapel,  where  he  makes  his  daily  offenngs  of  fresli,  fra- 
grant fiowers  and  waxen  tapers,  and  performs  his  morning 
devotions.  It  is  without  doubt  the  grandest  temple  in 
Siam.  It  is  a royal  shrine,  and  shelters  the  little  image 
which  is  held  more  precious  than  any  other  of  the  thou- 
sands in  the  kingdom.  Why  it  is  called  the  Emerald  Idol 
I cannot  tell,  for  the  words  “ Pra  Kean  ” do  not  translate 
Emerald  god,  but  Glass  or  Crystal  god,  and  in  the  follow- 
ing description  of  it  from  the  pen  of  one  who  ought  to 
have  had  special  facilities  for  knowing,  it  will  be  noticed  that 
there  is  no  mention  whatever  of  emerald  either  in  its  com- 
position or  adornment : 

“ The  Emerald  Idol  is  about  twelve  inches  high  and  eight  in 
width.  Into  the  vii-gin  gold  of  which  its  hair  and  collar  are 
composed  must  have  been  stiiTed,  while  the  metal  was  yet 
molten,  crystals,  topazes,  sapphires,  rubies,  onyxes,  amethysts, 
1*  (153) 


154 


SIAM. 


and  diamonds — tlie  stones  crude,  or  rudely  cut,  and  blended  in 
such  proportions  as  might  enhance  to  the  utmost  imaginable 
limit  the  beauty  and  cost  of  the  adored  effigy.  The  combination 
is  as  harmonious  as  it  is  splenchd.  No  wonder  it  is  commonly 
believed  that  Buddha  himself  alighted  on  the  spot  in  the  foim 
of  a great  emerald,  and  by  a flash  of  lightning  conjuj’ed  the 
glittering  edifice  and  altar  in  an  instant  from  earth,  to  house 
and  throne  him  there ! ” 

Xo  matter  what  is  “commonly  believed,”  no  amount  of 
faith  will  make  that  little  conglomerate  ima^e  an  emerald. 
They  say  it  has  a diamond  in  its  forehead  and  diamond 
eyes.  It  is  said  to  have  fallen  from  heaven  originally,  and 
that  it  was  brought  from  Laos  by  Payah  Lak,  the  first  king 
who  reigned  in  Bangkok,  and  has  ever  since  been  the  pride 
and  glory  of  the  royal  capital.  Immense  sums  of  money 
have  been  spent  upon  the  temple,  and  in  1882,  in  honor  of 
the  Siamese  Centennial,  it  was  thoroughly  repaired  and  re- 
dedicated  with  imposing  Buddhist  ceremonies.  It  is 
enthroned  upon  an  altar  of  lofty  height,  reaching  almost 
to  the  ceiling  of  the  temple.  The  altar  is  pyramidal,  de- 
creasing in  regular  tiers  from  the  base  to  the  top,  where 
there  is  a beautiful  golden  spire  and  a throne  upon  which 
rests  the  wonderful  idol.  Over  the  altar  on  these  step-like 
shelves  are  displayed  all  sorts  of  gifts  and  offerings,  besides 
innumerable  gold  and  silver  images  of  Buddha.  There  ai-e 
golden  umbrellas,  gold  and  silver  lamps,  candlesticks  and 
vases,  trays,  and  incense-holders ; elegant  Chinese,  Jap- 
anese, and  other  foreign  vases,  filled  with  artificial  or 
natural  flowers,  and  images  of  elephants  and  other  beasts ; 
also,  a great  vaiiety  of  clocks,  old  and  new,  big  and  little, 
too  fast  and  too  slow,  and  some  entirely  run  down,  which 
seem  to  have  entered  upon  that  eternal  rest,  lifeless  and 
timeless,  of  Nipon^  the  Buddhist  heaven.  Why  do  they 
gather  all  sorts  of  rubbish  and  pile  it  upon  the  altar  of 
their  gods  ? Who  can  tell  % 

o 


BUDDHIST  SHRINES. 


155 


In  tins  temple  may  be  seen  some  of  those  great  candles 
made  of  beeswax,  and  as  large  round  as  the  body  of  a man. 
They  are  gilded  over  the  outside,  and  consecrated  and 
lighted  before  the  altar  where  they  will  burn  for  weeks. 
Here,  too,  is  the  holy  fire  preserved  for  royal  and  priestly 
cremations.  Near  the  close  of  the  last  century  the  sacred 
fire  went  out,  and  was  not  relit  until  years  after,  when  one 
of  the  royal  buildings  was  struck  by  lightning.  They  took 
of  this  heavenly  fire,  and  set  it  to  burn  once  more  as  a per- 
petual offering  before  their  god,  and  there  it  may  be  seen 
to-day.  Relays  of  watchers  are  on  constant  guard,  so  that 
the  temple  is  never  left  alone.  There  is  too  much  treasure 
and  spoil  of  pleasant  things  there  to  be  exposed  to  the  ruth- 
less bands  of  Bangkok  robbers.  In  a land  where  the  ordi- 
nary people  are  so  poor  that  one  who  has  one  hundred  dol- 
lars is  considered  well-to-do,  an  idol  worth  but  one-quai’ter 
of  that  sum  is  certainly  a great  temptation. 

The  walls  and  ceiling  of  Wat  Pra  Kean  are  covered  with 
vines  and  flowers,  pictures  of  gods  and  angels,  paintings  of 
seenes  from  the  legend  of  Buddha,  and  strange  heathen 
symbols.  Graceful  hanging  lamps  and  chandeliers  are  used 
for  illumination,  while  the  sunlight  struggles  almost  in  vain 
to  get  in  through  the  many  small  two-leaved  windows  and 
the  narrow  doorways.  I have  elsewhere  spoken  of  these 
beautiful  doors,  inlaid  with  pearl  and  bits  of  colored  glass, 
with  hlies,  “ tawadahs,'^  Buddhas,  and  sacred  umbrellas 
making  up  their  pictured  surface,  and  all  the  spaces  and 
borders  covered  with  gilt,  and  yet  they  must  be  seen  to 
be  fully  appreciated.  Wat  Pra  Kean  is  always  full  of  in- 
terest. Here  the  king  in  his  boyhood,  when  his  royal 
father,  Maha  Mongkut,  was  yet  alive,  was  divested  of  his 
princely  robes  and  ornaments,  and  clad  in  the  plain,  simple 
garb  of  a Buddhist  '■^NaneP  This  is  an  order  which  young 
boys  may  enter  when  they  are  not  yet  old  enough  to  be- 
come regular  priests.  After  his  initiation  he  repah’ed,  with 


156 


SIAM. 


tlie  officiating  priests,  to  tlie  royal  temple  at  Wat  Bralima- 
nee  Wade,  where  he  spent  several  months  in  the  cloisters 
and  temples  learning  all  the  “ ins  and  outs  ” of  life  in  the 
monastery.  “ When  he  returned  to  the  world  and  the  resi- 
dence assigned  him,”  says  Mrs.  Leonowens,  “ he  seemed  no 
longer  the  impressible,  ardent  hoy  who  was  once  my  bright, 
ambitious  scholar.”  ISTow  as  reigning  king  he  meets  the 
princes  and  highest  officers  of  his  Government,  twice  each 
year,  in  Wat  Pra  Kean.  There  is  an  elevated  place  just 
before  the  altar  where  the  king  kneels  during  his  devotions, 
but  he  never  sits  before  his  god.  His  throne-chair  is  placed 
at  one  side,  and  his  com*tiers  crouch  on  the  brass-tiled  floor 
before  their  king  and  the  idol  while  they  take  the  oath  and 
drink  the  water  of  allegiance.  Three  times  a year  the  king 
climbs  up  a ladder  at  the  back  of  the  altar,  and  with  great 
ceremony  changes  the  silken  scarfs  of  the  idol,  putting  on 
a lighter  or  heavier  one  according  to  the  season.  One  of 
the  many  pagodas  we  visited  in  this  temple  ground  is  cov'- 
ered  over  ^vith  golden-hued  tiles,  very  small,  not  more  than 
one  inch  square,  made  of  coarse  glass  and  gilt.  This  out- 
side layer  alone  is  reputed  to  have  cost  $100,000.  Inside 
is  a gilt  altar,  with  a large  Buddha  upon  it,  overlaid  with 
gold.  Another  one  is  used  as  a library,  and  has  a large, 
black  wooden  case,  inlaid  with  silver  and  pearl,  and  holding 
sacred  Pali  books.  The  floor  was  covered  with  some  of 
that  wonderful  silver  matting,  but  it  was  so  dirty  you  would 
not  have  known  there  was  anything  in  the  corners  but 
earth.  The  keepers  slej^t  and  cooked  and  ate  there,  and 
their  beds  and  rice-pots  were  all  huddled  into  the  comers ; 
and  their  cigars,  lamps,  torches,  and  betel-trays  were  laid 
upon  the  ornamented  ledges  of  the  sacred  library.  At  the 
end  of  a rope,  which  opened  a trap-door  commimicating 
with  an  upper  story,  they  had  tied  some  dried  fish,  which 
s-wung  back  and  forth,  adding  not  a little  to  the  odoriferous 
atmosphere.  Dust  and  cobwebs  covered  the  waDs,  and  the 


BUDDHIST  SHRINES. 


157 


once  beautiful  ceiling  was  blackened  by  tbe  smoke  of  their 
cooking. 

In  tbe  king’s  own  temple,  Wat  Pra  Kean,  the  beauty  of 
which  I have  been  trying  to  describe,  we  found  tbe  same 
mixture  of  elegance  and  dirt,  gold  and  jewels,  rice-pots, 
dried  fish,  and  ashes.  At  one  side  of  tbe  grand  altar  was  a 
case  with  glass  doors,  filled  with  elegant  jewels,  and  heavy 
gold  chains,  devoted  to  the  temple  by  one  of  the  dead 
princesses.  But  even  this  beautiful  case  was  used  as  a 
screen  under  which  to  poke  their  old  clothes  and  hats,  for 
even  in  this,  the  grandest  temple  of  the  kingdom,  the 
watchers  were  permitted  to  camp ; and  they  had  their 
cooking  utensils,  old  lamps,  and  rubbish  filling  all  the 
corners  of  the  rear  of  the  building,  and  overflowing  under 
the  altars,  and  on  the  ^vindow-sills.  Surely  the  Buddhists 
have  little  idea  of  the  “ eternal  fitness  of  things.”  The 
king  may  not  sit  before  the  blind  eyes  of  his  idol,  but  at 
its  back  these  meanest  slaves  can  do  as  they  list. 

Wat  Chang  has  been  mentioned  in  a former  chapter, 
also  Wat  Sa-Kate,  where  so  many  of  the  dead  of  Bangkok 
are  buried  and  burned.  There  is  an  island  in  the  river  be- 
tween Bangkok  and  the  sea,  and  travellers  are  struck  with 
the  beauty  of  the  temple  whose  white  wall  and  spires  gleam 
out  from  the  midst  of  its  ever  verdant  foliage.  The  king 
makes  an  annual  pilgrimage  to  this  shrine  in  his  elegant 
state  barge,  with  thousands  of  boats  in  his  train,  and  there 
are  great  festivities  and  boat  races. 

Wat  Po  is  another  famous  resort  for  the  worshippers 
of  Buddha,  and  Wat  Maha  Taht,  or  Temple  of  the  Holy 
Bones.  At  this  latter  place  the  Buddhists  firmly  beheve 
they  have  enshrined  some  of  the  sacred  bones  of  Guatama. 
Pagodas  in  Siam  correspond  to  Dagabas  in  India  and  Cey- 
lon, and  they  are  always  the  repositories  of  sacred  relics ; 
so  here  we  suppose  every  pile  of  brick  and  mortar  with  its 
spire  pointing  upward,  is  the  monument  in  honor  of  some 
holy  thing  handed  doum  from  the  far  past. 


158 


SIAM. 


There  is  an  army  of  Buddhist  priests  in  Bangkok  alone  ; 
indeed  we  have  heard  so  often  that  there  are  ten  thousand 
of  them,  that  reiteration  carries  with  it  a certain  con\dction 
of  its  truth.  And  all  these  yellow-rohed  drones  are  housed 
in  monasteries,  or  wats,  with  their  adherent  holy  places, 
shrines,  wells,  trees,  stones,  images,  hooks,  candles,  rags, 
and  bones. 

There  are  no  sacred  monkeys,  birds,  reptiles,  or  cattle  as 
in  India.  I have  seen  a few  of  those  sacred  Indian  cattle 
roaming  at  large  in  Petchaburee,  but  their  depredations  are 
such  that  I can  assure  you  they  receive  more  curses  than 
blessings  from  the  enraged  populace.  The  Chinese  have 
tried  to  introduce  sacred  pigs,  but  the  Siamese  are  too  in- 
dolent to  feed  such  hungry  creatoes  for  the  doubtful  merit 
in  anticipation.  At  some  of  the  wats,  however,  they  do 
feed  crocodiles,  and  a favorite  pastime  of  the  idle  is  to 
throw  rice  into  the  river  and  see  fish  come  in  shoals  to  de- 
vour it. 

Last  'December  I met  one  of  the  prince-priests,  Praong 
Manewt,  a younger  brother  of  the  present  sovereign.  He 
came  to  our  city  on  a pilgrimage.  He  preached  in  the  tem- 
ple next  door,  and  we  went  to  hear  liim.  He  has  been  a 
monk  five  years,  and  refuses  all  offers  of  wealth  and  world- 
ly honors  from  the  king.  He  is  quite  small  and  emaciated, 
eats  but  one  meal  a day,  and  goes  about  without  pomp  or 
ceremony.  Much  of  his  pilgrimage  is  on  land,  where  he 
walks  with  hare  head  and  feet,  from  temple  to  shrine,  from 
cave  to  sacred  mountain.  He  prefers  that  mode  of  travel, 
as  it  is  more  austere  and  he  expects  to  accumulate  the  more 
merit.  He  came  to  visit  our  schools,  hut  would  not  enter 
the  room  where  the  girls  were.  They  say  he  hates  women, 
and  will  allow  none  to  enter  his  wat  in  Bangkok.  This 
seems  strange,  and  if  true,  there  must  be  few  worshippers 
at  that  temjffe,  for  women  here,  as  in  other  j)agan  lands, 
are  the  most  constant  and  devout  worshippers  at  all  heathen 


BUDDHIST  SHRINES. 


159 


slirines.  Siamese  women  have  their  favorite  resorts,  es- 
pecially childless  wives,  who  go  again  and  again  to  offer 
their  petitions  in  vain  to  a god  who  does  not  and  cannot 
hear. 

At  Chantaboon  there  is  a famous  pagoda  which,  it  is  de- 
clared,’ casts  no  shadow.  Perhaps  it  is  on  cloudy  days,  or 
at  night,  or  noontime  when  the  sun  is  so  dazzling  they 
cannot  see.  You  will  find  an  account  of  Wat  Pranon,  or 
the  Sleeping  Idol  of  Petchaburee,  elsewhere.  We  have 
here  also,  a Wat  Maha  Taht.  But  I have  opened  a mis- 
sion-school at  the  very  gateway  of  this  Temple  of  the  Holy 
Bones,  where  we  hope  to  teach  the  children  to  trust  in  a 
living  Christ,  instead  of  putting  confidence  in  the  supposed 
merits  clinging  to  the  old  bones  of  a dead  man. 

Wat  Kumpang  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  ruins  in 
our  province.  It  has  been  deserted  for  many  years,  and 
the  crumbling  walls  are  grass-grown  and  fringed  with 
delicate  ferns  and  orchids.  Pipsissiway  grows  up  through 
the  earthen  fioor  of  an  unfinished  idol-house,  and  spreads 
its  white-veined  leaves  before  the  unconscious  Buddha, 
whose  mother-of-pearl  eyes  were  dug  from  their  sockets 
long  ago.  This  blind  idol  has  two  attendants,  one  on 
either  side.  The  image  to  the  right  has  a sacred  serpent 
creeping  uj)  its  back  and  spreading  its  seven  heads  above 
in  an  arched  canopy.  There  are  very  few  images  left  in 
the  older  buildings  of  this  temple’s  grounds,  and  they 
breathe  not  a whisper  of  the  far-away  time  when  they 
were  whole  and  new.  There  are  several  pagodas  still 
standing,  but  the  temple  is  a heap  of  stones.  And  it  is 
these  stones  that  make  this  ruin  peculiar,  for  they  are  a 
conglomerate  evidently  mixed  by  some  human  process  and 
burned.  They  are  large  and  heavy,  varying  in  size  from 
one  to  three  feet  in  length,  one  to  two  in  breadth,  and  the 
same  in  thickness.  The  Siamese  have  lost  the  art  of  manu- 
facturing them,  if  they  ever  knew  it,  and  no  one  can  now 


160 


SIAM. 


tell  wlien  or  liow  they  were  made.  An  old  legend  is  that 
Pra  Pursee  built  Wat  Kumpang,  and  that  he  found  the 
stones  in  blocks  as  he  ploughed  his  fields,  and  carried  them 
one  by  one  on  the  point  of  his  ox-goad  to  their  present 
site.  As  proof  of  the  story,  they  show  little  round  holes 
in  every  stone  as  the  mark  of  the  ox-goad.  I myself  have 
actually  seen  the  little  round  holes,  and  yet  I am  so 
incredulous  I dare  not  vouch  for  the  truth  of  the  legend. 
Others,  when  questioned,  reply  that  they  know  nothing 
of  AVat  Kumpang,  except  that  it  is  very  old,  and  when  the 
ox-goad  story  is  mentioned  they  say,  “ Mem,  don’t  you 
believe  it,”  and  so  I don’t.  At  one  of  the  gateways  is  a 
large  image  of  Konsee  in  red  sandstone,  whose  shoulders 
and  breast  are  worn  quite  smooth  by  the  natives  who  come 
to  whet  their  knives  upon  its  surface.  L}dng  at  its  feet 
are  the  old  cocoanut-sheUs  with  which  they  dip  the  needed 
water.  I wonder  if  these  Siamese  Buddhists  ever  heard 
that  it  is  well  to  “ be  useful  as  Avell  as  ornamental  ” ? They 
at  least  apply  it  to  this  old  red  sandstone  image  with  a 
vengeance.  In  one  corner  of  the  grounds  is  a deep,  walled 
well,  long  and  wide,  after  the  fashion  of  these  Eastern 
lands,  which  once  served  as  a lotus-pond  and  bathing-place 
for  priests.  The  hlies  have  disappeared,  stray  dogs  lap 
the  quiet  waters,  and  the  frogs  hop  in  and  out  without 
fear  of  molestation. 

There  is  a similar  ruin  at  Batburee.  The  temples  and 
walls  are  built  of  the  same  conglomerate  stone.  But  they 
are  not  deserted.  Many  priests  still  haunt  the  ancient 
abode.  The  present  chief-priest,  or  abbot,  is  crazy,  and 
pretends  to  be  an  astrologer,  soothsayer,  and  fortune-teller. 
Implements  of  his  craft,  in  the  shape  of  old  bottles,  cracked 
dishes  and  teapots,  shells,  strings,  sticks,  banners,  and 
charms  of  ancient  and  curious  shapes,  are  scattered  all 
about  the  grounds,  and  hung  in  the  temples  and  pagodas. 
Here  they  have  an  impress  of  the  sacred  footprint  at 


BUDDHIST  SHRINES. 


161 


Prabalit.  It  is  covered  with  a pall,  and  stands  in  tlie 
centre  of  its  own  pagoda.  If  visitors  ask  to  see  it,  it  is 
uncovered  with  the  greatest  reverence.  They  also  have  an 
altar  npon  which  they  lay  blank  paper,  and  soon  lettering 
appears  which  only  the  initiated  can  read.  There  are 
scores  of  large  stone  images  in  all  stages  of  dilapida.tion. 
They  are  not  like  ordinary  Buddhas,  aud  one  wonders  if 
they  are  to  represent  Guatama  at  all.  If  so,  it  is  not 
according  to  the  Siamese  conception  of  divine  beauty. 
There  are  pictured  legends  upon  the  walls,  and  many 
ruder  sketches  of  recent  date. 

Not  far  from  Wat  Kmnpang  in  Petchaburee  is  another 
ruined  shrine.  On  the  rear  gable  of  the  idol-house  is  a 
pictiued  pilgrimage  to  Prabaht.  Away  up  near  the  comb 
of  the  roof  there  was  made  in  the  soft  plaster  the  impress 
of  a giant’s  foot,  with  parallel  sides  and  five  toes  all  the 
same  length,  hke  the  fabled  pedal  extremities  of  Guatama. 
On  the  wall  beneath  is  represented  a mountain,  with  trees 
and  grottos,  and  salas  in  which  are  reclining  Buddhas,  with 
pilgi'ims  slowly  climbing  up,  worshipping  as  they  go,  to 
pay  their  homage  to  the  most  modern  wonder  of  Buddhism. 
All  this  is  in  plastered  work,  which  stands  out  from  the 
wall,  and  was  originally  brightly  colored  with  Chinese 
paint.  This  once  popular  shrine  is  now  a refuge  for  stray 
horses.  There  are  no  doors,  no  priests,  no  worshippers. 
A few  old  women  who  followed  us  inside  clasped  their 
hands  before  the  dust-covered  Buddhas,  and  then  asked  me 
why  I did  not  restore  the  temple  and  make  merit  ? 


CHAPTER  XYIII. 


THE  BTJDDHA  FOOTPRINT. 

Mount  Peabaht  is  one  of  tlie  most  holy  places  in  Siam, 
and  to  it  in  the  month  of  February,  yearly  pilgrimages  are 
made.  The  pilgrims  gather  from  all  parts  of  the  country, 
as  a visit  to  Prabaht  is  a sure  passport  to  Nirvana. 

To  reach  Prabaht  from  Bangkok  you  go  by  boat  some 
eighty  miles  up  the  Chow  Payah  River,  and  then  inland 
ten  or  fifteen  miles  more.  The  pilgrims  dress  in  hohday 
attire,  and  pass  up  the  river  with  music  and  laughter,  till 
far  beyond  the  old  capital  of  Ayuthia,  where  they  go  on 
shore,  and  by  elephant,  ox-cart,  or  on  foot  travel  along  a 
wide,  pleasant  road,  paved  with  bricks,  and  leading  into  the 
heart  of  the  forest.  On  either  side  of  the  way  there  are 
rest-houses  and  wells  for  the  use  of  the  weary  pilgrims.  As 
they  near  the  sacred  shrine  they  ring  bells  to  apprise  the 
angel  of  the  Mount  of  their  approach.  Here  they  find  a 
Buddhist  monastery  with  triple  walls.  At  night  these  walls 
are  outlined  with  brilliant  lamps,  which  look  very  beautiful. 
Inside  the  enclosure  ai'e  the  usual  priest  and  idol  houses, 
pagodas,  salas,  and  rests.  Scores  of  bells  are  hung  round 
and  round  the  temples,  which  the  pilgrims  ring  for  amuse- 
ment. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  mountain  is  the  fabled  foot- 
print of  Buddha.  It  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  in 
1607,  during  the  reign  of  Prachow  Song  Tam,  an  usm’ping 
priest-king.  One  writer  slyly  remarks  that  such  a king 
had  a special  aptitude  for  such  a discovery.  After  due  ex- 
amination it  was  pronounced  a genuine  impress  of  Bud- 
(163) 


THE  BUDDHA  FOOTPRINT. 


163 


dha’s  holy  foot.  In  the  snrronnding  rocks  are  prints  of 
elephants,  tigers,  and  other  wild  animals,  most  of  them,  ac- 
cording to  Mouhot,  “ formed  by  antediluvian  or  unknown  ” 
creatures,  all  of  them  supposed  to  have  followed  Buddha  in 
his  passage  over  the  mountain. 

The  Buddha  footprint  is  protected  by  a beautiful  edifice 
covered  with  gilt.  It  is  square  at  the  base,  and  then  dome- 
shaped, and  is  sui’mounted  by  a pyramid  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  high.  The  walls,  inside  and  out,  are  covered 
with  curious  devices,  inlaid  in  mother-of-pearl,  glass,  and 
gilding.  But,  like  most  of  their  sacred  buildings,  it  is  un- 
finished and  dilapidated.  The  beautiful  inner  walls  are 
blackened  with  smoke  from  the  incense-sticks,  candles,  and 
offerings  burned  before  the  large  silver  image  of  Buddha 
which  reigns  supreme  on  the  jewelled  throne.  The  floor  is 
covered  with  silver  matting.  There  are  golden  crowns  and 
royal  vessels ; piles  and  piles  of  waist-cloths,  of ^ finest  color 
and  texture — offerings  of  the  devout.  The  inner  surface 
of  the  footprint  is  covered  with  innumerable  layers  of  gold- 
leaf.  It  is  estimated  that  $5,000  worth  of  this  fragile  but 
costly  material  is  used  there  annually ; each  year,  after  the 
pilgrims  leave,  it  is  scraped  off  and  used  by  the  monks 
of  the  monastery  for — who  can  tell  what  purpose  ? The 
temple  that  covers  the  footprint  is  so  dark,  the  crowd  so 
great,  and  the  footprint  itself  is  at  the  bottom  of  a hole,  so 
that  very  few  see  the  wonder,  which  it  may  have  been  the 
dream  of  their  life  to  behold. 

Thousands  of  people  flock  to  Prabaht  each  year,  and  in 
such  a motley  crowd  of  heathen  you  may  find  all  classes. 
Priests  in  yellow  robes  swaian  everywhere,  and  receive  the 
adoration  of  all.  They  preach  to  the  people  in  the  even- 
ing, and  the  next  morning  devour  all  the  nice,  dainty  things 
the  women  and  girls  can  prepare  for  their  11  o’clock  break- 
fast. The  day  services  consist  of  long  recitations  from  the 
sacred  Pali  books.  There  are  scores  of  beggars  and  gam- 


164 


SIAM. 


biers,  saloon-keepers  and  market-women,  with  all  needed 
articles  for  sale  at  Prabaht  prices ; various  troupes  of  the- 
atrical performers,  and  the  rude  plays  are  going  day  and 
night.  The  ubiquitous  Chinaman  is  there  with  his  pigtail, 
and  his  cards,  his  sarasho*  gong,  and  fire-crackers. 

This  year  (1884)  the  king  and  his  court  and  a part  of  his 
harem  are  among  the  pilgrims,  and  I presume  the  costly 
gifts  bestowed  upon  the  temple,  the  priests,  and  the  holy 
footprint  will  be  more  than  usually  extravagant.  All  the 
royal  and  courtly  pilgrims  had  to  camp  out,  for  there  are 
neither  hotels  nor  palaces  at  Mount  Prabaht.  Everything 
for  their  comfort  and  convenience  had  to  be  taken  with 
them,  and  even  vehicles  which  were  to  carry  them  from 
the  river  shore  to  the  Mount  had  to  be  boated  thither  as 
well,  for  there  is  no  good  road  from  the  capital.  The 
king’s  tent  was  one  that  had  taken  a great  prize  at  the 
Netherlands  International  Exhibition. 

The  king’s  company  consisted  of  himself  and  harem, 
with  all  their  train  of  personal  attendants ; some  two  thou- 
sand soldiers,  royal  guards,  cavalry,  and  footmen ; many  of 
the  prominent  nobles,  each  with  his  slaves  and  followers. 
There  w'ere  royal  physicians,  nurses,  and  cooks.  The 
vehicles  were  of  almost  every  style — fine  coaches  from 
England,  with  foreign  horses  and  coachmen  in  hvery ; 
Japanese  jinrikishas^  drawn  by  men,  to  take  the  great 
company  of  ladies  across  the  country.  There  were  scores 
of  sedan  chairs,  and  some  say  a thousand  ox  and  buffalo 
carts,  to  carry  the  food  and  furniture  for  all.  The  fine 
saddle-horses  with  their  trappings  for  the  king  and  the 
young  nobility,  so  lately  brought  from  Australia,  were  also 
out,  and  scores  of  huge  elephants,  with  their  howdahs  and 
di’ivers,  were  there  to  grace  the  grand  occasion. 

Perhaps  there  never  were  so  many  gathered  at  Prabaht 


* Chinese  liquor. 


THE  BUDDHA  FOOTPRINT. 


165 


at  one  time  before.  Besides  pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  the 
kingdom,  the  villagers  and  farmers  from  all  the  country- 
side came  to  see  the  king,  and  all  the  grand  and  wonderful 
things  accompanying  him.  We  do  not  know  how  long  the 
king  intended  to  remain,  but  the  soldiers  getting  into 
trouble,  one  of  them  was  shot  by  a comrade,  and  afterward 
six  more  men  were  beheaded  at  the  royal  mandate,  and  a 
great  many  pilgrims  died  owing  to  the  prevalence  of  fever ; 
so  the  king  and  his  retinue  turned  back  without  effecting 
their  intended  trip  to  Pata-svi.  We  heard  that  a careless 
shot  was  fired  in  the  direction  of  the  king’s  tent,  not  with 
the  purpose  of  injm’ing  him,  however,  yet  the  excitement 
it  occasioned  must  have  been  intense.  We  are  glad  the 
young  king  escaped  both  shot  and  pestilence,  and  has  been 
pei’iuitted  to  return  to  his  capital  in  safety. 

Not  far  from  Prabaht  is  Patawi,  where  under  a shehing 
rock  the  faithful  can  see  the  shadow  of  Buddha.  At 
Patawi  may  be  seen,  also,  many  footprints  like  those  at 
Prabaht,  and  splendid  specimens  of  petrified  trees.  The 
view  from  the  summit  of  this  rock  mountain  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  kingdom,  and  well  repays  the  hardy  traveller 
for  his  patience  and  fatigue.  Hill  and  plain,  forest  and 
mountain  form  a delightful  panorama  to  the  north,  wdiile  “ off 
to  the  south  is  a vast  plain,  which  extends  froin  the  base  of 
Patawi  to  the  other  mountains  beyond  Ayuthia,  whose 
high  towers  are  visible  in  the  distance,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  off.  At  the  first  glance  one  discovers  what 
was  once  the  bed  of  the  sea,  this  vast  plain  having  taken 
the  place  of  an  ancient  gulf,  proof  of  which  is  afforded  by 
numerous  marine  shells,  many  of  which  have  been  collected 
in  a perfect  state  of  preservation ; while  the  rocks,  with 
their  footprints  and  fossil  shells,  are  indicative  of  some 
great  change  at  a still  earlier  period.” 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


THE  PEOPLE  AND  THEIK  HOESES. 

The  Siamese  are  undoubtedly  descendants  of  the  Laos 
and  other  northern  tribes,  and  further  back  than  that  they 
claim  descent  from  the  Brahmins  of  India,  and  this  latter 
belief  accounts  to  my  mind  for  the  presence  of  Brahmins 
at  all  their  great  state  and  religious  ceremonies,  although 
the  king  and  all  his  subjects  are  avowed  Buddhists.  Phys- 
ically they  are  small  and  weak,  with  little  muscle  and 
very  soft  bones.  The  men  have  no  beards,  and  all  the 
nation,  unless  of  mixed  blood,  have  straight,  coarse  black 
hair,  and  black  or  brown  eyes.  Their  features  are  not  at 
all  of  the  negro  type,  and  some  have  very  good  looking 
faces,  strongly  reminding  one  of  friends  across  the  sea. 
The  Siamese  idea  of  beauty  is  to  have  eyes  like  button- 
holes, with  the  buttons  half  through ; black  teeth,  red  hps, 
long  finger-nails,  straight  black  hair ; large  ears  that  stand 
out  from  the  head  at  the  top,  and  whose  lobes  droop  toward 
the  shoulder ; small  waist,  and  a white  skin,  which  they 
mellow  by  rubbing  it  with  a golden  powder  called  “ cum- 
miny  They  usually  have  ohve  complexions,  but  some  are 
very  black.  As  a rule,  they  would  have  white,  beautiful 
.teeth,  but  the  disgusting  habit  of  betel-chewing  disfigures 
the  mouth  wonderfully,  causing  the  teeth  to  protriide  and 
blacken,  and  the  lips  and  tongue  to  crack.  Every  habit- 
able place  in  Siam  is  defiled  with  the  blood-red  saliva  they 
are  constantly  ejecting  from  their  mouths.  The  cud  they 
chew  so  persistently  is  a combination  of  ereca-nut,  cera 
leaf,  hme,  tobacco,  camphor,  and  tumeric.  It  is  a very 
(166) 


THE  PEOPLE  AND  THEIR  HOUSES. 


107 


expensive  luxury,  but  one  indulged  in  by  all  classes.  It  is 
given  witb  the  sacred  offerings  to  tbe  priests,  as  well  as  to 
tlie  meanest  slaves  or  beggars  wbo  croucb  along  tlie  streets. 
Tbe  natives  consider  it  an  insult  if  tbey  enter  anotbei-’s 
house  and  are  not  invited  to  eat  betel,  and  it  is  equally 
impolite  to  refuse  tbe  proffered  cud.  Indeed,  it  occupies 
so  important  a place  in  tbe  economy  of  their  social  bfe  that 
a wedding  is  called  “ Kun  Maak,^’’  bterally  “ betel-tray,” 
because  it  beads  the  procession  of  gifts  which  are  laid  at 
the  feet  of  the  bride’s  parents  by  the  bridegroom.  They 
say  “ any  dog  can  have  white  teeth,”  inferring  that  only 
those  who  know  enough  to  use  betel  can  have  beautiful 
black  ones.  I have  seen  it  in  the  mouths  of  un weaned 
children ; and  old  folks  no  longer  capable  of  chewing,  pound 
it  in  a mortal'  to  reduce  it  to  the  desired  pulpiness,  or  have 
younger  jaws  and  better  teeth  masticate  it  for  them.  It  is 
mildly  stimulating,  and  they  can  fast  from  food  a long  time 
if  only  they  have  plenty  of  betel.  It  costs  almost  as  much 
as  their  food,  especially  among  the  poor.  A great  many 
young  men  in  Bangkok  are,  however,  giving  up  the  filthy 
custom,  especially  those  who  learn  to  speak  English,  and 
we  ardently  hope  the  fashion  will  spread  throughout  the 
kingdom. 

Some  of  the  young  men  and  women  are  quite  handsome, 
and  the  bttle  children  beautiful  in  features  and  natural 
graces  of  form.  Their  eyes  are  specially  lovely,  of  a rich 
liquid  brown,  and  fringed  with  long,  silky  lashes.  Among 
the  nobility  of  Bangkok,  and  where  the  best  language  is 
used  and  they  chat  pleasantly  together,  their  voices  are  low 
and  sweet,  and  many  of  the  words  have  a musical  ring.  They 
show  a certain  respect  for  the  aged,  and  are  very  fond  of 
little  children.  Motherhood  is  considered  honorable,  so  in- 
fanticide is  rare,  and  even  bttle  daughters  ai’e  loved  and 
cherished  almost  as  tenderly  as  sons. 

Women  enjoy  greater  liberty  than  in  almost  any  other 


168 


S/AM. 


Oriental  land.  Ton  meet  them  everywhere ; and  in  the 
bazaars  and  markets  nearly  all  the  buying  and  selling  is 
done  by  them.  As  servants  and  slaves  too,  they  are  seen 
performing  aU  sorts  of  labor  in  the  open  streets.  Still  they 
are  down-trodden,  and  considered  infinitely  inferior  to  men. 

It  is  a significant  fact  that  although  boys  have  been  edii- 
cated  for  past  centuries  in  the  Buddhist  monasteries,  there 
are  not,  and  have  never  been,  so  far  as  I can  learn,  any  na- 
tive schools  for  girls.  Quite  a number,  however,  learn  to 
read  in  their  own  families,  but  such  knowledge  is  looked 
upon  as  a superfluous  accomplishment,  and  they  are  not  en- 
couraged in  it,  neither  is  any  one  ashamed  to  acknowledge 
their  ignorance  of  books. 

The  Siamese  are  a pleasant,  good-natured  people,  but  lazy 
and  indolent  to  the  utmost  degree,  and  vain,  shallow,  and 
self-conceited.  Their  greatest  vices  are  lying,  gambling, 
immorality,  and  intemperance,  although  the  latter  is  strict- 
ly forbidden  by  one  of  the  commandments  in  their  Buddli- 
ist  decalogue.  The  vice  of  intemperance  is  fearfully  preva- 
lent. As  early  as  1844  the  “ Liquor  Farmer”  of  Bangkok 
and  its  suburbs,  paid  $96,000  yearly  for  the  privilege  of 
making  and  selling  it  there.  It  is  made  of  molasses,  and 
costs  but  little,  and  the  consumption  of  it  is  constantly  on 
the  increase.  The  home  production  is  not  equal  to  the  de- 
mand, and  the  liquor  is  imported  from  Clfina,  Batavia, 
Singapore,  and  Europe.  A certain  class  of  foreigners  have 
made  fancy  “wines  and  liquors  fashiouable  at  court  and  in 
the  higher  circles  of  native  society,  and  many  of  the  young 
bloods  are  ruining  both  body  and  soul  ^vith  strong  drink. 
Native  arrack  and  “ hw  ” can  be  purchased  for  sixpence  a 
pint,  and  half  that  quantity  is  enough  to  intoxicate  the  or- 
dinary tippler.  So  this  “ curse  of  curses  ” has  taken  posses- 
sion of  the  land.  It  has  been  said  that  only  “ two  kinds  of 
Americans  come  to  Siam.  One  class  to  Christianize,  and  - 
the  other  to  liquorize  the  natives ! ” In  the  past  this  was  too 


THE  PEOPLE  AND  THEIR  HOUSES. 


169 


true.  Some  years  ago  an  American  so  dishonored  our  flag 
that  now  we  dare  not  unfm-1  the  stars  and  stripes  above  our 
homes,  even  on  our  national  holidays,  without  the  natives 
considering  it  the  sign  of  a liquor  establishment.  It  is 
charged  that  this  American  issued  papers  to  venders  of 
spirits  who  were  thus  enabled  to  sell  imported  goods,  free 
of  duty,  under  the  protection  of  our  dear  old  flag.  The 
stars  and  stripes  went  up  and  down  the  rivers  and  canals  on 
little  whiskey-boats,  and  fluttered  from  doors  in  the  principal 
streets  of  Bangkok  and  other  cities  of  Siam,  where  the  “ wa- 
ter of  sin,”  as  my  old  native  teacher  aptly  calls  it,  was  sold. 

Eating  and  smoking  opium  are  also  on  the  increase,  and 
the  law  which  threatens  all  consumers  of  it  with  confisca- 
tion of  property  and  death,  is  not  now  enforced.  There  is  a 
weed  called  by  the  natives  “Awnc/ia”  (which  I think  is 
Indian  hemp),  grown  abundantly  in  Siam,  and  those  who 
are  too  poor  to  buy  opium  use  this  instead  and  with  similar 
effect.  The  pleasing  effect  of  this  drug  lasts  tliree  or  four 
hours,  and  is  followed  by  a deep  sleep.  The  result  of  its 
constant  use  is  a wretched  nervousness,  lung  complaints, 
dropsy,  melancholy,  madness,  and  death  ! 

It  would  be  hard  to  find  a Siamese  who  did  not  use  to- 
bacco iu  some  form.  The  men  and  boys  nearly  all  smoke 
and  some  of  the  women.  All  chew  the  weed  with  their 
betel,  and  some  use  it  as  snuff. 

Gambling  is  only  allowed  at  licensed  places  except  for  a 
few  days  each  year,  when  the  king  grants  full  liberty,  and 
then  every  man,  woman,  and  child  seems  determined  to 
make  the  most  of  the  chance,  and  everything  else  is  neg- 
lected to  indulge  iu  the  absorbing  passion.  This  vice 
brings  a wondrous  revenue  into  the  king’s  treasury,  and  is 
filling  Siam  with  slaves. 

The  dress  of  the  Siamese  is  very  simple  and  comfortable, 
consisting  of  a wai.=t-cloth,  jacket,  and  scarf,  and  sometimes 
a hat  and  sandals.  If  all  would,  at  all  times,  wear  the  native 
8 


170 


SIAM. 


dress  there  would  be  no  occasion  for  fault-finding.  Bat  as 
a nation  they  do  not  know  what  shame  is,  and  as  the  cli- 
mate is  mild  and  pleasant,  and  the  majority  of  the  people 
poor  and  careless,  their  usual  dress  consists  of  a simple 
waist-cloth,  adjusted  in  a very  loose  and  slovenly  manner ; 
while  many  children,  until  they  are  ten  or  twelve  years 
old,  wear  no  clothing  whatever.  When  foreigners  first  ar- 
rive in  Siam  they  are  shocked  almost  beyond  endurance  at 
the  nudity  of  the  people ; and  although  they  constantly 
preach  a gospel  of  dress,  their  influence  in  this  respect 
seems  less  apparent  than  in  almost  any  other.  Isot  until 
Siam  is  clothed  need  she  expect  a place  among  respectable 
civilized  nations. 

The  old-fashioned  shave,  wliich  left  a patch  of  stiff  bristles 
on  the  top  of  the  head  like  a shoe-brush,  is  no  longer  the  uni- 
versal style.  European  trims  are  the  most  fashionable  in  the 
capital,  and  some  of  the  young  men  ai'e  trying  to  cultivate 
the  mustache,  and  the  women  let  their  hair  cover  the  whole 
head,  and  dress  it  with  cocoanut-oil.  They  shave  their  fore- 
heads, rub  beeswax  on  their  lips,  powder  their  faces,  and 
perfume  their  bodies.  They  bend  their  joints  back  and 
forth  to  make  them  supple,  and  give  the  elbow  a peculiarly 
awkward  twist  which  they  consider  very  graceful. 

Their  salutations  are  decidedly  pecuhar.  The  old  style 
is  to  get  down  on  all-fours,  and  then,  resting  on  the  knees, 
raise  the  clasped  hands  three  times  above  the  head,  and  also 
bow  the  head  forward  until  the  brow  touches  the  floor. 
They  kiss  with  their  noses,  by  pressing  them  against  their 
friends’,  and  saying,  “Very  fragrant,  very  fragrant ! ” while 
they  take  long,  satisfied  sniffs.  Many  are  now  learning  to 
shake  hands  and  make  graceful  bows  like  European  nations, 
but  the  imported  kiss  is  not  yet  in  vogue,  and  I do  not  see 
that  it  ever  can  be  until  betel  is  discarded,  for  at  present 
the  nose  is  a more  kissable  feature  of  the  Siamese  face  than 
the  mouth. 


THE  PEOPLE  AND  THEIR  HOUSES.  171 


The  people  are  exceedingly  fond  of  jewelry,  and  often' 
their  gold  chains  and  rings  are  the  only  adornment  the 
body  can  boast.  Many  a young  girl  refuses  to  wear  a jacket 
because  it  would  cover  up  her  chains,  which  are  worn  as  a 
hunter  carries  his  game-bag,  over  one  shoulder  and  under 
the  arm.  She  prefers  a scarf  which  she  can  arrange  and 
rearrange,  and  thus  display  the  glitter  of  her  golden  orna- 
ments. They  wear  a great  many  gold  rings,  and  their  ear- 
rings are  often  costly  and  beautiful.  They  also  have  gold 
ai’iulets  and  anklets,  and  channs  encircling  neck  and  waist, 
and  the  higher  ranks  now  wear  gold  girdles  with  jewelled 
clasps.  The  jewelry  is  of  odd  and  unique  designs, — snake- 
bracelets  ; necklaces  of  gold  turtles,  fish,  and  flowers,  set 
with  gems ; dragon-headed  rings,  with  diamond,  emerald, 
or  ruby  eyes,  and  a tongue  that  moves.  Some  rings  have 
little  birds  poised  upon  them,  with  outspread  wings  and 
sparkling  with  jewels;  golden  elephants,  and  many  other  rich 
and  costly  designs. 

The  Siamese  are  great  bathers.  Several  times  daily  they 
may  be  seen  splashing  in  the  rivers  or  canals,  or  pouring 
water  over  themselves  from  jars  set  by  the  doorway.  There 
is  no  privacy  in  Siam — eyes,  eyes  everywhere ; and  they 
think  no  more  of  bathing  themselves  and  their  children  in 
the  open  street  than  of  buying  a bunch  of  lettuce  from 
the  market-woman.  But  it  would  be  a mistake  to  suppose 
they  are  cleanly ; for  as  they  use  neither  soap  nor  towels, 
this  drenching  of  the  body  does  not  cleanse  it,  especially 
when  to  complete  the  toilet  they  smear  the  body  with  tu- 
meric. I am  glad  to  say,  however,  that  they  are  singularly 
free  from  vermin,  owing  no  doubt  to  these  frequent  baths, 
changes  of  raiment,  and  the  shaved  head.  Although  these 
people  are  called  Buddhists,  they  also  worship  devils,  evil 
spirits,  and  men  who  are  priests.  Every  kind  of  super- 
stition is  known  among  them — witchcraft,  enchantment, 
sorceries,  philters,  conjuring  of  words,  all  the  frightful 


172 


S/AM. 


secrets  of  the  black  magic,  are  resorted  to  when  other  means 
fail  to  arrive  at  their  ends,  which  is  done  with  the  aid  ot 
demons  called  ^’‘PeeP  They  are  very  ignorant,  poor  souls, 
and  full  of  nameless  fears — even  grown  men  are  afraid  to 
be  alone  in  the  dark. 

The  nobles  of  Siam,  under  the  present  reign,  have  erected 
a great  many  handsome  brick  houses,  which  are  planned  by 
European  architects,  and  are  roomy  and  comfortable — that  is, 
they  are  large  and  cool,  and  some  of  them  elegantly  furnished 
with  English,  F rench,  and  Chinese  furniture.  In  these  houses 
may  be  seen  beautiful  plate,  and  rich  and  rare  old  vases, 
vessels  of  gold  and  silver  and  jewel-boxes,  miiTors,  pictures, 
chandeliers,  and  other  beautiful  things  in  great  variety,  ac- 
cording to  the  rank  and  wealth  of  the  owners.  So  little 
clothing  is  worn,  and  varies  so  seldom  in  style  or  color, 
that  the  wardrobe  is  usually  the  least  part  of  the  posses- 
sions. Some  of  the  princes’  palaces  have  marble  and  tile 
floors,  others  simple  wood.  Occasionally  they  have  carpets 
or  straw  matting.  All  are  very  fond  of  flowers,  and  so 
these  houses  have  beautiful  gardens.  Sometimes  they  are 
attached  to  the  palaces,  and  sometimes  they  are  off  in  an- 
other part  of  the  city.  These  are  fllled  with  all  the  lovely 
trees  and  flowers  of  Siam,  and  many  rare  plants  from  other 
lands.  The  rich  Siamese  have  many  of  the  comforts  and 
luxuries  of  life.  They  have  numerous  slaves  and  attend- 
ants. But  polygamy  Alls  the  houses  with  immorahty,  bit- 
ter jealousies,  and  strife,  and  thus  there  are  no  homes  ! 

The  middle  class  dwell  in  houses  built  of  wood,  usually 
unpainted  teak,  and  roofed  with  earthen  tiles.  They  are 
small  and  illy  ventilated,  and  here  the  people  huddle 
together,  from  the  parents  to  the  children  of  the  third  and 
fom'th  generation.  One  can  imagine  the  quarrels  and 
fusses  that  arise  daily  where  there  are  so  many  in  one 
household.  They  have  very  little  fmaiiture,  and  may  be 
said  to  live  principally  on  the  floor.  They  seem  to  be 


THE  PEOPLE  AND  THEIR  HOUSES. 


173 


natural  ‘‘squatters.”  On  visiting  them  first  you  might 
think  they  had  just  moved  in,  and  that  the  furniture  would 
come  along  presently ; but  if  you  called  five  or  ten  years 
later  you  would  find  it  had  not  yet  arrived. 

The  lower  class  live  in  huts  made  of  woven  bamboo,  and 
thatched  with  leaves  of  the  mangrove  tree.  Nearly  all 
dwellings  are  built  on  posts  or  pillars,  which  elevate  them 
five  or  six  feet  from  the  ground,  and  are  reached  by 
ladders,  which  at  night  are  often  drawn  up  to  prevent  dogs 
or  thieves  from  coming  into  the  house.  But  the  very  poor 
have  to  content  themselves  with  huts  made  of  palm  leaves 
tied  to  a bamboo  frame,  and  with  nothing  but  the  bare 
earth  for  a floor. 

All  ordinary  Siamese  houses  must  have  three  rooms ; 
indeed,  so  important  is  this  number  considered  to  the  com- 
fort of  the  family,  that  the  suitor  must  often  promise  to 
provide  three  rooms  ere  the  parents  will  let  him  claim  his 
bride.  There  is  the  common  bedroom,  an  oiiter  room 
where  they  sit  during  the  day  and  receive  their  visitors, 
and  the  kitchen.  Let  me  begin  at  the  latter,  and  try  to 
describe  the  dirty,  dingy  place.  Having  no  godliness,  the 
next  thing  to  it,  cleanhness,  is  entirely  lacking.  There  is  a 
rude  box,  filled  with  earth,  where  they  build  the  fire  and 
do  what  they  call  the  cooking ; that  is,  they  boil  rice  and 
make  curry,  and  roast  fish  and  bananas  over  the  coals. 
There  is  no  making  of  bread  or  pie,  of  cake  or  pudding ; 
no  roasts,  no  gravies,  no  soups.  Even  vegetables  are 
seldom  cooked  at  home,  but  are  prepared  by  others  and 
sold  in  the  markets,  or  peddled  about  the  streets.  There 
they  buy  boiled  sweet  potatoes,  green  corn,  and  preserved 
fruits,  curries,  roasted  fish,  and  ants,  peanuts  and  bananas, 
sliced  pine-apples  and  melons,  and  squash.  Pickled  onions 
and  turnips  are  sold  in  the  streets  of  Bangkok  just  as 
pickled  beets  are  in  Damascus.  Curry  is  made  of  all  sorts 
of  things,  but  is  usually  a combination  of  meat  or  fish,  and 


174 


SIAM. 


vegetables.  If  you  want  an  English  name  for  it  that  all 
can  understand,  you  must  call  it  a stew.  The  ingredients 
are  chopped  very  fine,  or  pounded  in  a mortar,  especially 
the  red  peppers,  onions,  and  spices.  The  predominant 
fiavor  is  red  pepper,  so  hot  and  fiery  that  your  mouth  will 
smart  and  burn  for  half  an  hour  after  you  have  eaten  it. 
Still,  many  of  the  curries  are  very  good,  and  with  steamed  rice 
furnish  a good  meal.  But  sometimes  a.  “ broth  of  abomin- 
able things  is  in  their  vessels,”  as,  for  instance,  when  they 
make  curry  of  rats  or  bats,  or  of  the  fiesh  of  animals  that 
have  died  of  disease,  and  they  fiavor  it  with  “ 'kapicTc^'’  a 
sort  of  rotten  fish,  of  which  all  Siamese  are  inordinately 
fond.  It  is  unrivalled  in  the  strength  of  its  fragrance  and 
flavor.  Siam  is  unique  in  that  she  possesses  two  of  the 
most  abominable  things,  and  yet  the  most  delicious,  if  we 
believe  what  we  hear,  and  they  are  the  durien,  a large  fruit 
found  only  on  this  peninsula,  and  “ kapick,”  which  I hope 
is  not  found  anwhere  outside  of  Siam. 

The  kitchen  has  no  chimney,  and  the  smoke  finds  its 
own  way  out,  leaving  black  and  sooty  marks  upon  every- 
thing. There  is  but  little  furniture,  except  the  rice-pots, 
kettle,  and  perhaps  a frying-pan.  Tliere  is  a little  stool,  a 
foot  square  and  four  inches  high,  that  they  call  a table,  and 
on  which  they  place  the  curry  and  fish  and  the  sliced 
vegetables,  while  those  who  eat  squat  around  it,  each  with 
a bowl  of  rice  on  the  floor  before  them,  which  they  replen- 
ish from  a dish  or  basket  near  by,  or  from  the  rice-pot  on 
the  fire-place.  The  rice-pot  is  of  coarse  earthenware,  round 
and  bulging,  with  a small  mouth  and  a lid.  They  cost  but 
a trifle,  and  are  easily  broken,  but  the  rice  cooked  in  them 
is  the  most  delicious  I ever  tasted.  It  is  washed,  then 
covered  with  cold  water,  and  set  on  the  fire ; as  soon  as  it 
comes  to  the  boil  it  is  skimmed  and  stirred.  It  is  boiled  a 
few  moments,  and  then  the  water  is  drained  oS  and  the  pot 
set  near  the  fire  for  the  rice  to  steam.  In  half  an  hour  it 


THE  PEOPLE  AND  THEIR  HOUSES. 


175 


is  cooked,  and  when  poured  out  is  like  a mountain  of  snow, 
every  grain  separate  and  whole.  Xo  wonder  the  natives 
marvel  that  we  can  live  without  it. 

There  is  no  regularity  about  their  meals,  and  they  do  not 
wait  for  one  another,  but  eat  when  they  get  hungry.  In 
the  higher  families  the  men  always  eat  first  and  by  them- 
selves, and  the  wives  and  children  and  dogs  take  what  is 
left.  The  usual  rule  is  for  each  one  to  wash  his  own  rice- 
bowl,  and  turn  it  upside  down  in  a basket  in  a corner  of 
the  kitchen,  there  to  drip  and  dry  till  the  next  time  it  is 
needed.  They  eat  with  their  fingers,  very  few  having  so 
much  even  as  a spoon,  and  they  do  not  use  the  wafer-like 
bread  so  common  in  the  Levant,  which  those  natives  double 
into  a kind  of  three-cornered  spoon,  dip  into  the  curds  or 
camel  stew,  and  eat  down  spoon  and  all. 

There  are  no  washing  or  ironing  days.  Many  have  no 
jackets,  only  a waist-cloth  which  they  wear  when  they  go 
to  bathe.  When  they  come  up  out  of  the  water  they 
change  it  for  a dry  one.  It  is  then  rubbed  a httle  in  the 
water,  wrung  out,  and  spread  in  the  sun  to  dry,  then  they 
fold  it  up  and  pat  it  with  their  hands,  and  that  is  all  the 
ironing  it  gets. 

The  kitchen  floors  are  nearly  all  made  of  split  bamboos, 
with  great  cracks  between,  through  which  they  pour  all 
the  slops  and  push  the  dirt,  so  there  is  no  sweeping  or 
scrubbinor  to  do.  Hear  the  door  are  several  large  earthen 
jars  for  water,  which  are  filled  from  the  river  by  the 
women  or  servants  as  often  as  they  get  empty,  and  here 
they  wash  their  feet  before  they  enter  the  house.  They 
dip  the  water  with  a gourd  or  a cocoanut-shell.  They  also 
use  brass  basins  and  trays  a great  deal,  but  for  lack  of 
scouring  they  are  discolored  and  green  with  verdigris,  and 
I cannot  help  thinking  the  use  of  such  vessels  is  one  of  the 
fruitful  sources  of  the  dreadful  sores  and  eruptions  with 
which  the  whole  nation  is  afflicted. 


176 


S/AM. 


The  outer  room  is  barren  enough,  with  perhaps  a mat 
for  guests  to  sit  upon,  and  a traj  from  which  all  are  served 
with  betel. 

The  bedroom  is  where  things  accumulate.  A torn  straw 
mat,  or  perhaps  an  ox  hide  or  two  on  the  floor,  unth  brick- 
shaped pillows  stuffed  with  cotton,  or  a block  of  wood 
itself  in  lieu  of  anything  softer  and  you  have  the  ordinary 
Siamese  bed.  In  families  of  not  the  very  poorest,  you 
sometimes  find  long  narrow  mattresses  stuffed  with  tree- 
cotton.  These  may  be  covered  with  an  old  ragged  waist- 
cloth  instead  of  a sheet,  and  over  it  is  suspended  a mos- 
quito curtain  of  unbleached  cotton.  These  tilings  are  used 
for  years  without  being  changed  or  washed.  The  beds  and 
mats  are  filthy,  and,  more  horrible  still,  are  swarming  with 
bugs.  They  infest  the  curtains,  the  coverings,  the  cracks 
in  the  floor  and  the  wall,  and  the  little  boxes  in  which  they 
store  them  few  clothes  and  valuables.  I have  even  seen  them 
creeping  over  the  people,  and  no  one  seems  to  mind  them 
or  think  of  being  ashamed.  The  rooms  are  never  cleared 
out  or  scrubbed.  The  cobwebs  of  succeeding  years  tangle 
and  entangle  themselves  in  the  corners,  (h’ape  the  rafters 
and  the  windows,  and  indeed  every  place  where  the  busy 
spinners  lay  their  hands.  There  is  seldom  more  than  one 
window  to  a bedroom,  and  at  night  it  is  carefully  closed, 
and  if  it  were  not  for  the  cracks  in  floor  and  wall,  the 
miserable  inmates  would  surely  smother.  They  have  as 
great  a horror  of  the  night  air  as  some  old  fogies  in  more 
civihzed  lands  who  appear  to  think  that  God  only  knows 
how  to  regulate  the  air  for  twelve  hours  out  of  the  twenty- 
four.  They  do  not  bring  their  cattle  into  the  house,  for 
it  is  very  frail  and  set  upon  posts,  but  they  keep  them 
under  the  floor,  so  they  can  hear  if  thieves  come  to  steal 
them. 

They  never  give  any  dinner  or  tea  parties,  or  visit  each 
other  as  we  do  at  home.  There  is  an  occasional  feast — as 


THE  PEOPLE  AND  THEIR  HOUSES. 


177 


a wedding,  a funeral,  or  a hair-cutting,  and  sometimes  the 
neighbor  gilds  will  sit  together  under  the  same  tree  to  sew  ; 
or  by  the  same  lamp  at  night  to  economize  oil,  and  to  chat 
and  gossip.  A great  place  for  the  latter  pastime  is  at  the 
temples,  when  they  go  to  hear  the  Buddhist  services,  which 
are  in  Pali,  usually,  and  not  to  be  understood,  or  by  the 
river-banks  and  wells  when  they  go  to  fetch  water.  They 
carry  water  in  pails,  or  baskets  sealed  with  pitch,  and  sus- 
pended from  the  ends  of  a pole  a la  Chinese. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  house-hfe  among  the  Siamese  is 
very  simple  and  primitive.  There  are  no  women  who  have 
worn  out  their  lives  scrubbing,  or  fussing  over  cook-stoves. 
They  do  not  dread  the  spring  house  cleaning,  or  the  fall 
setting  up  of  stoves  and  putting  down  carpets.  There  is  no 
canning  of  fruit,  nor  packing  of  butter  and  cheese.  But 
alas!  there  is  no  happy  home-life  either,  no  family  altar 
where  they  can  worship  a liWng  God,  no  pleasant  social 
board  where  fathers  and  mothers,  brothers  and  sisters  meet 
three  times  a day,  and  thanking  God  for  food,  eat  with 
joy  and  gladness,  and  grow  strong  for  His  service ; no 
sitting-room  where  some  of  the  happiest  years  of  our  lives 
are  spent,  in  loving  companionship  -sGth  those  of  our  own 
household ; no  place  for  books,  and  no  books  to  read,  ex- 
cept perhaps  a few  vile  tales,  and  books  of  superstition  and 
witchery.  God  pity  Siam,  and  plant  in  her  kingdom  many 
happy  Christian  homes.  May  her  people  be  purified  and 
cleansed  and  taught  of  Thee  in  all  things ; then  will  the 
good  influence,  working  from  the  heart  outward,  touch, 
and  cleanse,  and  beautify  all  their  surroundings.* 

* The  reader  will  doubtless  notice  that  my  desciaption  of 
housekeejjing  is  of  Siamese  life  among  the  lower  classes,  not 
among  those  who  have  come  in  contact  with  missionaries  and 
been  improved  somewhat,  nor  those  of  the  higher  classes  m 
Bangkok,  the  princes  and  nobles,  whose  old-time  home-life  was 
neater  and  more  orderly  than  that  here  described.  These, 
8* 


CHAPTER  XX. 


HOLIDAYS  IN  SIAM. 

The  holidays  are  very  many.  Indeed  if  cessation  from 
work  makes  a holiday,  some  of  the  natives  have  a continu- 
ous one,  for  they  never  have  done  anything  and  they  never 
exjiect  to. 

In  1884  the  designated  holidays,  however,  were  ^‘Teep 
Chingcha^’’  or  Saving  Days,  occurring  on  the  4th,  5th,  and 
6th  of  January.  Swings  are  put  up  in  the  “ swing  market,” 
and  young  Siamese  stand  in  them  and  “ work  up  ” until 
they  are  able  to  take  some  money  with  their  mouths  from 
a high  pole  fastened  in  front  of  them.  The  king  and 
others  witness  the  feat.  The  awkward  ones  who  secure 
nothing  afford  a great  deal  of  amusement  to  the  crowd, 
while  the  successful  ones  not  only  carry  off  the  prize- 
money,  but  are  greeted  with  the  loudest  applause.  Pro- 
cessions of  gaily  - dressed  natives  with  banners  and  flags 
parade  the  streets  and  gather  to  witness  the  fun. 

Since  the  Chinamen  have  become  so  numerous  in  Siam, 
their  Xew-Year  marks  a national  holiday.  It  began  Janu- 
ary 27th  and  was  celebrated  for  three  successive  days.  The 
first  day  they  worship  idols,  devils,  and  ancestors,  and  have 
a great  racket  and  boom  with  flre-crackers.  Shops  are 

through  the  influence  of  foreigners  coming  to  Siam  and  visits 
to  foreign  lands,  have  raised  themselves  in  the  scale  of  livmg, 
and  have  foreign  houses  filled  Avith  foreign  furniture  and  con- 
veniences, order  smnptuous  meals  from  foreign  bakeries,  and 
have  them  placed  upon  their  tables  and  served  in  modern  style. 
I do  not  consider  that  time  Siamese  housekeeping. 

(178) 


HOLIDA  YS  IN  SIAM. 


179 


closed  and  work  ceases.  Tliey  give  themselves  up  to  wor- 
ship and  fun  and  gambling.  Their  kitchen  god  goes  to 
heaven  for  three  days  and  then  returns.  They  tear  down 
the  old  picture  of  him  and  put  up  a new  one,  and  paste  red 
papers,  with  prayers  and  vows  upon  them,  all  over  the  doors 
and  windows  (ancient  Hebrew  custom  ?),  begging  mercy  of 
heaven,  and  health  and  prosperity  for  the  coming  year,  and 
promises  to  worship  next  year  if  the  prayers  are  granted. 
All  through  the  three  days  they  must  not  quarrel  nor  scold 
in  the  family  or  in  the  street,  and  no  water  must  be  drawn 
or  carried,  and  if  a rice-bowl  is  broken  during  that  time,  it 
is  a sign  of  bad  luck.  They  also  prepare  food  and  sweet- 
meats, and  after  first  offering  them  to  the  idols  and  their 
invisible  ancestors,  they  make  a feast  of  them  for  them- 
selves and  their  friends,  and  send  portions  one  to  another. 
I have  had  more  than  one  try  of  uneatable  Chinese  dainties 
presented  to  me  at  such  festival  times.  The  Chinese  also 
burn  at  Hew-Year’s,  paper  money,  clothes,  shoes,  houses, 
horses,  boats,  and  all  sorts  of  things  for  the  use  of  the  dead. 

“ Prabaht,”  or  the  visiting  of  Buddha’s  supposed  foot- 
print, are  the  next  holidays.  The  11th  of  February  the 
pilgrims  start  for  the  sacred  shrine.  To  go  once  is  a 
work  of  great  merit,  twice  much  greater,  and  three  times 
will  surely  open  the  highest  heaven  to  the  weary  pilgrim. 

The  Siamese  Hew-Year  falls  on  the  first  day  of  their 
fifth  month,  the  27th  of  March.  It  is  called  “ Krut  TaiP 
The  festivities,  and  especially  the  gambhng,  which  is  then 
free,  are  kept  for  three  and  sometimes  five  days,  if  the 
king  is  kind  enough  to  grant  them  a few  “ days  of  grace.” 
The  first  day  they  carry  offerings  to  the  temples  and  the 
priests,  and  give  gifts  to  their  friends.  There  are  certain 
sweetmeats  made  of  glutinous  rice,  cocoanut,  sugar,  and  pea- 
nuts which  even  the  poorest  strive  to  obtain.  Men,  wom- 
en, and  children  must  be  without  restraint,  and  allowed  to 
do  just  as  they  please,  and  go  and  come  as  they  will  during 


180 


SIAM. 


these  three  wonderful  days.  Even  tormented  souls  in  the 
Buddhist  purgatory  are  allowed  to  revisit  the  earth  and  beg 
a share  of  moital  merit,  and  their  pitiful  human  friends  di- 
vide their  small  stock  with  them,  pom'ing  out  water  from 
brass  basins  upon  the  ground  as  a witness  of  the  good  deed. 
The  people  strive  to  visit  all  temples,  caves,  and  Buddhist 
shrines  within  a reasonable  distance  of  their  homes.  They 
bathe  the  idols  in  perfumed  water,  drape  them  in  sacred 
yellow  cloths  and  then  bow  before  them  in  adoration,  burn- 
ing incense-sticks  and  waxen  tapers.  The  young  people 
play  from  morning  tiU  night.  They  gather  flowers  on  the 
mountains  and  weave  garlands,  or  lay  them  in  Buddha’s 
ever  open  palm.  They  dance  and  sing,  they  laugh  and 
shout.  All  seem  to  be  hapjiy  and  in  a good  humor.  They 
play  tricks  on  each  other,  catching  boys  and  girls  and  black- 
ing or  greasing  their  faces,  and  then  pushing  them  into  the 
river.  I have  known  youngsters  to  stand  for  hours  on  a 
thoroughfare  and  dash  water  on  every  passer-by.  They 
have  also  a pretty  custom  of  bathing  the  grandmothers  at 
these  holidays.  They  dip  water  from  the  river  and  pour  it 
over  the  old  creatures  as  they  sit  on  a board  in  the  sun- 
shine. Xo  enchantments  are  used,  but  the  children  laugh 
and  talk  around  the  old  ladies  and  sprinkle  them  with  per- 
fume, and  powder  their  necks,  faces,  shoulders,  and  anns 
with  sweet-scented  powder.  They  are  then  presented  with 
a new  suit  of  clothes,  consisting  of  a waist-cloth  and  a scarf, 
and  money  is  slipped  into  the  jjoor  old  wrinkled  hands.  All 
make  merit  by  the  operation.  On  the  third  day  all  Gov- 
ernment officers  drink  the  water  of  allegiance  and  swear 
loyalty  to  the  king. 

On  the  11th  of  April  another  triple  set  of  holidays  be- 
gan. It  was  the  day  the  sun  entered  the  sign  “Aries,”  and 
was  the  beginning  of  the  Siamese  astronomical  Kew-Year. 

Eaily  in  May  they  celebrate  the  liahiah” — ^beginning 
of  seed-time.  As  I have  spoken  fully  of  this  festival  sea- 


HOLIDA  VS  IN  SIAM. 


181 


son  in  the  chapter  on  Siam’s  Reh’gion,  I will  only  say  here 
that  no  farmer  is  allowed  to  begin  his  spring  ploughing  and 
planting  until  after  the  performance  of  this  royal  ceremony 
and  the  blessing  of  the  king’s  fields. 

In  the  middle  of  their  sixth  month,  wliich  falls  in  May, 
when  the  moon  is  at  its  full,  they  celebrate  a day  as  the  anni- 
versary of  the  birth,  inspiration,  and  death  of  the  Buddha 
Guatama.  lYe  wiU  look  through  Mrs.  Leonowens’  eyes 
and  see  what  she  says  she  beheld  in  the  city  of  the  Isang 
Harm,  or  Royal  Women,  one  May  morning  in  18G1 : 

“ I was  conducted  by  a number  of  weU-dressed  slave- women 
to  the  residence  of  my  pupil,  the  ‘child  wife.’  Her  house  was 
a brick  building,  with  a low  wall  running  round  it,  w’hich  took 
in  some  few  acres  of  gi-ound,  devoted  to  gardens  and  residences 
for  her  numerous  slaves  and  attendants.  I was  the  fii-st,  that 
momiug,  to  pass  between  the  two  bi’ick  and  mortar  lions  which 
guarded  the  entrance,  and  after  a kindly  gi’eeting  I took  my 
place  at  the  inner  end  of  the  hall  or  antechamber  which  gave 
access  to  the  residence.  The  ‘child  wife,’ a remarkably  ju’etty 
little  woman,  dressed  in  pure  white  silk,  stood  in  the  hall  beside 
a small  marble  fountain,  with  her  two  sons  on  either  side  of 
her.  All  round  the  fomitain  were  huge  China  vases  containing 
plants,  covered  with  flowers,  and  between  them  were  immense 
silver  water-jars,  each  large  enough  to  hold  a couple  of  men, 
and  each  containing  a huge  silver  ladle.  Thu’ty  or  more  young 
slave-women  were  engaged  in  filhng  them  with  cool,  fresh  wa- 
ter, dra^vn  from  a well  in  the  garden. 

“Tlie  hall  was  freshly  furnished  with  striped  floor-matting, 
and  with  cushioned  seats  for  a himdi’ed  guests.  In  the  garden, 
opposite  the  doors  of  the  hall,  was  a circular  thatched  roof, 
supported  on  one  gi-eat  mast  like  a single-poled  tent,  and  this 
w^as  the  theatre  erected  for  the  occasion.  In  one  part  was  an 
elevated  stage  for  the  marionettes,  and  the  whole  was  very  pret- 
tily and  gi’acefuUy  ornamented,  showing,  as  did  everj-thmg 
around,  a desire  to  please  and  to  entertain.  Some  fifty  women- 
portem  came  from  an  inner  court,  bearing  on  their  heads  mas- 
sive silver  dishes  of  sweetmeats  and  choice  viands,  and  placed 
them  along  the  hall  ; then  came  some  maidens  di’essed  in  pure 


182 


SIAM. 


white,  and  arranged  flowers  in  small  gold  vases  beside  each  of 
the  seats  designed  for  the  expected  guests,  and  when  this  was 
done  they  took  their  places  behind  their  mistress. 

‘‘It  was  early  morning,  just  seven  o’clock.  But  this  entii'e 
women’s  city  had  been  up  for  hours  engaged  in  the  important 
work  of  rightly  celebrating  the  great  day.  The  groimds  around 
the  house  were  all  in  a glow  'with  roses,  and  the  pm-e  silver  of 
the  water-jars  glistened  resplendently  in  the  morning  sxmlight. 
The  gate  was  thro-wn  wide  open,  and  into  this  fairy-hke  scene, 
amid  flowers  and  sunsliine  and  fragi*ance,  and  the  dew  still 
trembling  on  the  leaves,  were  ushered  in  the  guests,  one  by 
one — a hundred  decrepit,  filthy,  unsightly-looking  beggar-women 
covered  with  du’t  and  rags  and  the  vilest  uncleanliness.  And 
the  ‘child  wife,’  who  might  have  numbered  twenty-five  sum- 
mers, but  who  looked  as  if  she  were  only  sixteen,  blushing  with 
a delicacy  and  beauty  of  her  own,  advances  and  greets  her 
strange  guests  with  all  the  more  respect  and  tenderness  becau.se 
of  then’  rags  and  poverty,  leads  them  gently  and  seats  them  on 
low  stools  around  her  sparkling  fomitaiu,  removes  them  disgust- 
ing  apparel,  and  proceeds  with  the  aid  of  her  maidens  to  wash 
them  clean  A\ith  fragrant  soap  and  gi’eat  di’aughts  of  cool  water 
ladled  out  of  the  silver  jars. 

‘ ‘ What  a transformation  when  the  matted  hair  was  washed 
and  combed  and  parted  and  dressed  with  flowers,  and  the  rags 
were  replaced  by  new  robes  of  pimest  white  ! Then  she  led 
them  toward  the  hall,  and  seated  them  on  the  silk  cushions  be- 
side the  silver  trays,  and  bowed  on  her  knees  before  them  and 
served  to  them  the  delicacies  prepared  for  them,  as  if  they  each 
one  and  all  deserved  from  her  some  special  token  of  her  love 
and  veneration. 

“ After  breakfast  the  music  stinick  up  and  the  actors  and  pup- 
pets appeared  on  the  stage.  The  music  was  particularly  good.  The 
royal  female  bands  were  assembled  for  the  occasion,  and  relieved 
each  other  in  succession;  the  acting  was  occasionally  inter- 
spei-sed  ^vith  the  plaintive  notes  of  female  voices ; the  priestesses 
of  this  beautiful  scene,  who  seemed  sometimes  deeply  moved, 
collected  from  within  themselves  all  the  charms  and  joys  of  love 
to  pour  them  forth,  with  the  inspiration  of  music,  at  the  feet  of 
their  lowly  Usteners. 

‘ ‘ And  at  length,  as  the  curtain  of  the  last  act  di’opped,  and 
the  prolonged  cadence  of  the  voices  and  the  instruments  died 


HOLIDA  F5  IN  SIAM. 


183 


away,  a loud  buzz  of  delight  and  pleasure  broke  from  the  listen- 
ing crowd  of  old,  decrepit  women,  who  received  each  a sum  of 
money  from  their  kind  hostess,  and  went  on  their  lonely  way 
rejoicing.” 

WasaJi,  a sort  of  Baddhist  Lent,  begins  July  8th,  and 
continues  till  October  4th.  These  are  months  of  special 
fasting,  penance,  and  self-mortification  for  the  fat,  lazy 
priests  in  the  monasteries.  There  are  no  special  rules  that 
every  one  must  abide  by,  but  all  are  self-imposed,  except 
that  the  priests  must  never  let  the  dawn  find  them  outside 
the  temple  enclosure.  Some  spend  the  night  among  the 
tombs  thinking  on  death ; others  sit  up  all  night  under  a 
tree,  or  in  a cave,  or  some  quiet  j)lace,  denying  themselves 
the  proper  attitude  of  repose.  Others  eat  but  once  in 
twenty-four  hours,  and  then  only  such  food  as  is  placed  in 
their  large  iron  bowl ; outside  dishes  and  dainties  must  all 
be  avoided.  But  if  they  grow  tired  of  these  voluntary 
observances  before  the  end  of  the  three  months,  they  can 
give  them  up  whenever  they  choose,  only  they  forfeit  the 
merit  they  might  have  gained  by  being  faithful  to  the  end. 

At  the  close  of  these  holy-days  the  whole  nation  is  intent 
on  feasting  them,  and  for  every  morsel  of  food  thus  pre- 
pared and  given  to  the  priests  they  expect  to  receive  and 
enjoy  an  hundredfold  of  heavenly  entertainment  in  the 
world  to  come,  or  in  the  “ chaatnah,'^  the  next  birth,  as 
the  Buddhists  teach. 

During  “ Wasah  ” all  in  authority  or  receiving  Govc7-n- 
ment  wages  must  renew  their  oath  of  allegiance  to  the 
king,  preceding  the  ceremonies  attending  the  celebration  of 
his  birthday,  September  21st.  These  royal  natal  festivities 
are  among  the  grandest  of  the  year,  and  include  the  20th, 
21st,  and  22d  of  September.  Extensive  illuminations  in 
honor  of  the  event  and  fireworks  are  displayed  every  night, 
and  day  and  night  plays,  games,  and  theatricals  attract  the 
throngs  of  idle  pleasure-seekers.  Birthday  calls  are  made 


184 


SIAM. 


upon  the  king,  and  congratulatory  speeches  and  messages 
are  delivered  by  foreign  ministers,  consuls,  and  residents ; 
gifts  are  presented,  and  a grand  party  given  to  all  the  elite 
of  Bangkok  by  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  at  his 
j?alace,  at  which  the  king  usually  appears  somewhere  near 
midnight,  when  temperate  people  are  so  sleepy  they  can 
luu’dly  see  him,  and  intemperate  people  are  so  anxious  to 
have  their  supper  and  begin  drinking  and  dancing  that 
they  hardly  care  whether  they  see  him  or  not.  He  is  very 
gracious,  and  walks  do’wn  the  long  reception  hall,  shaking 
hands  and  speaking  kindly  to  this  one  and  that. 

Shortly  after  the  royal  birthday  comes  the  first  series  of 
“ Zuy  Jiaiong.”  They  are  held  October  3d,  4th,  and  5th, 
and  again  November  1st,  2d,  and  3d.  The  amusements  of 
these  triple  holidays  consist  in  floating  fireworks  and  ofi'er- 
ings  to  the  water  spirits.  In  Bangkok — in  the  vicinity  of 
the  palaces  especially — night  is  turned  into  day  by  the 
multitudinous  lights  flashing  everywhere  and  reflected  from 
the  water.  The  river  seems  alive  with  floating  palaces, 
miniature  ships,  floats,  and  rafts,  all  brilliantly  lighted,  and 
riding  the  waves,  bearing  their  oSerings  of  betel  and 
tobacco,  rice,  sugar,  and  sweetmeats  to  the  “ Great  Mother 
of  Waters”  for  her  gracious  care  of  them  through  the  past 
year,  and  as  a thank-offering  and  propitiatory  sacrifice,  be- 
cause they  have  bathed  in  her  flood,  drank  of  her  sweet 
waters,  and  rowed  their  boats  over  her  bosom.  There  are 
some  royal  craft,  resembling  illuminated  dragons,  which 
are  floated  down  the  river  on  one  side,  and  then  slowly 
towed  up  the  other.  Lotus  lilies,  with  burning  tapers,  are 
a favorite  offering,  or  little  rafts  made  of  the  pith  of  the 
plantain  tree,  and  gaily  decked  with  flowers,  flags,  and 
tapers.  People  are  on  the  river  in  boats  by  thousands,  and 
in  all  the  proHnces  and  down  by  the  sea  even  the  natives 
are  setting  off  their  fire-gifts  upon  the  wave. 

The  Taut  KatuT’’  holidays  begin  October  4th,  and 


HOLIDA  VS  IN  SIAM. 


185 


last  for  one  whole  month.  They  are  celebrated  by  pro- 
cessions on  land  and  water.  Those  by  water  are  specially 
magnificent.  The  gaily-dressed  people,  in  beautiful  boats, 
go  on  all  the  rivers  and  canals  to  offer  their  gifts  at  the 
temples,  and  when  the  religious  part  is  finished  they  spend 
the  rest  of  the  day  and  night  boat-racing.  Even  the  king 
and  his  court  go  annually  to  Paknam  to  witness  the  races 
there.  From  midnight  till  dawn  Buddhist  priests  are 
gathered  at  the  Paknam  Prachadee,  reciting  serious  and 
comic  chants.  By  daylight  surging  crowds  in  boats  press 
up  to  the  island  to  prostrate  themselves  before  the  priests 
and  the  idols,  and  afterward  all  watch  the  races  or  take 
part  in  the  exhilarating  exercise.  The  special  aim  of  all 
racers  seems  to  be  to  run  down  and  upset  other  boats,  thus 
throwing  the  gaily-dressed  crews  into  the  water,  while  the 
boats  and  paddles  float  away  amid  the  shouts  of  the  specta- 
tors. The  Siamese  are  such  good  swimmers  that  seldom 
any  one  is  drowned  in  the  narrow  rivers.  It  is  interesting 
to  read  the  following  old  account  of  these  ancient  holiday 
customs ; 

All  the  temples  in  Bangkok  and  its  suburbs  which  have 
been  made  by  or  dedicated  to  the  king  expect  a splendid 
visit  from  him  annually,  between  the  middle  of  the 
eleventh  and  twelfth  moons.  This  is  the  season  appointed 
by  the  most  ancient  and  sacred  custom  for  the  priests  to 
seek  their  apparel  for  the  year  ensuing.  In  conformity 
with  this  custom,  the  king,  taking  a princely  offering  of 
priests’  robes  with  him,  visits  these  temples. 

The  ceremony  is  called  “ Taut  Katin,”  which  means  to 
lay  down  a pattern  in  order  to  cut  patchwork  by  it.  The 
pattern  is  the  “ Katin,”  which  in  ancient  time  the  priests 
of  Buddha  used  in  cutting  their  cloth  into  patches,  to  be 
sewed  together  to  make  their  outer  and  inner  robes.  The 
cloth  was  cut  with  a knife  because  it  would  be  wicked  to 
tear  it.  In  olden  time,  in  Buddha’s  day  the  custom  was 


18G 


SIAM. 


for  the  priests  to  go  out  themselves  to  seek  old  cast-off 
clothing,  and  the  best  of  these  they  would  patch  together 
to  form  the  seven  kinds  of  priestly  robes  required.  This 
was  one  conspicuous  mode  of  self-mortification.  But  that 
mendicant  custom  has  gradually  given  place  to  the  present 
splendid  and  august  one  of  making  the  patched  garments 
from  new  cloth,  dyed  yellow ; and  prepared  by  the  princely 
donations  of  thousands  of  the  affluent  and  the  more  hum- 
ble contributions  of  the  multitudes  of  the  poor.  They 
begin  to  make  preparations  for  this  season  mouths  before 
the  time,  until  in  Bangkok  alone  there  are  many  thousands 
of  priests’  suits  in  readiness  by  the  middle  of  October 
for  distribution  at  the  temples.  The  cloth  is  dyed  yellow 
for  the  purpose,  as  tradition  says,  of  imitating  somewhat 
the  custom  of  Buddha  and  his  early  followers,  who  pre- 
ferred a dingy  yellow  color  for  their  robes  for  the  express 
pm'pose  of  making  themselves  odious  in  the  eyes  of  the 
world,  that  there  might  be  no  door  of  temptation  left  open 
to  them  to  be  conformed  to  the  world.  In  those  days  it 
was  the  custom  for  robbei’s  and  murderers  in  Ilindostan, 
where  Buddhism  began  its  course,  to  wear  red  and  yellow 
clothing  as  an  appropriate  badge  of  their  profession.  The 
better  classes  of  the  world  regarded  them  with  horror,  and 
fled  from  them.  Xow,  Guatama  Buddha,  when  a prince, 
had  a host  of  ardent  friends,  who  urged  him  not  to  abdi- 
cate his  throne.  But  he  was  fully  set  to  do  it ; and  this 
Avas  the  mode  he  took  to  cut  himself  off  from  their  sym- 
pathy. By  assuming  the  robber’s  garb,  he  Avoidd  rid  him- 
self of  such  ruinous  tempters,  and  yet  secure  another  class 
of  admirers  who  would  delight  to  walk  with  him  in  the 
road  to  Kipon,  to  which  his  whole  heart  and  soul  was 
devoted. 

Although  there  are  so  many  thousands  of  Buddhist  tem- 
ples in  Siam,  none  are  omitted  from  this  annual  A'isitatiou. 
The  royal  temples  ai’e  visited  by  the  first  and  second  kings. 


HO  LID  A F5  IN  SIAM. 


187 


or  by  some  prince  or  nobleman  of  bigb  rank  who  goes  in 
the  king’s  name.  Outside  the  capital  these  royal  temples 
are  always  visited  by  deputies  of  their  Majesties,  bearing 
in  their  arms  priests’  robes,  and  other  things  provided  by 
the  kings. 

When  either  of  the  kings  go  in  person,  tliey  do  it  with 
great  pomp  and  splendor,  whether  by  land  or  water.  If 
by  water  they  display  their  finest  state  barges.  They  each 
have  ten  or  more  of  these  splendid  boats,  with  some  august 
name  attached  to  distinguish  it  from  the  others.  These 
barges  are  called  '‘'‘RuorpraUermny^'’  or  royal  throne  boats. 
Only  one  appears  in  the  royal  procession  at  a time.  They 
are  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  in  length,  and  from  six  to  eight  feet  wide. 
They  gi’adually  become  narrower  fore  and  aft,  and  taper 
upwards.  Hanging  from  the  stem  and  stern  are  two 
large  white  tassels  made  of  the  hair  of  the  Cashmere 
goat,  and  between  them  floats  a golden  banner.  A little 
abaft  of  midships  there  is  a splendid  canopy,  about 
twelve  feet  long,  having  the  ridge  curving  downward 
at  each  end,  and  covered  with  cloth-of-gold,  and  the  sides 
tastefully  hung  with  curtains  of  the  same  costly  material. 
Within  is  a throne,  suited  to  this  little  floating  palace.  The 
bows  of  some  of  these  royal  throne  barges  are  formed  into 
heads  of  hideous  dragons,  or  imaginary  sea-monsters,  with 
glaring  eyes  and  horrid  teeth  and  horns.  The  whole  boat 
is  richly  carved  and  gilded  to  represent  scales,  often  inlaid 
with  pearl  and  other  precious  things,  Avhile  the  stern  forms 
an  immense  tail,  curving  upwards  to  the  height  of  twelve 
or  fifteen  feet.  It  is  in  this  kind  of  barere  that  the  kins: 
always  rides.  When  he  would  appear  in  his  greatest  glory, 
he  is  seen  seated  on  this  his  floating  throne,  wearing  a 
heavy  gold  crown,  a gold-embroidered  coat,  and  golden 
shoes ; and  from  his  crown  to  the  very  soles  of  his  sandals, 
he  is  ornamented  with  precious  stones  of  various  hues,  and 


188 


SIAM. 


glistening  'R'itli  diamonds.  His  face  appears  as  if  a light 
cosmetic  had  been  applied.  So  steadily  does  he  sit,  under  the 
great  weight  of  his  glory,  that  he  appears  more  like  a golden 
idol  than  a living  man.  He  has,  generally,  many  of  his 
little  children  with  him  when  he  rides  in  his  royal  barges. 
Sometimes  the  chikh’en  follow  him  in  a barge  of  second 
rank,  being  all  beautifully  attu’ed  and  their  faces  whitened 
with  powder.  We  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  huge 
jewelled  fan  and  the  many-storied  royal  umbrellas,  white  and 
yellow,  which  have  their  appropriate  places  in  the  dragon 
barge,  and  help  to  distinguish  it  from  all  others  in  the  im- 
posing pageant.  The  dragon  barges  are  propelled  by  sixty 
or  seventy  paddlers,  who  have  been  trained  daily  for  a full 
month  for  that  express  service.  They  have  been  taught  to 
paddle  in  unison,  all  striking  the  water  at  the  same  moment, 
and  all  raising  the  blades  of  their  paddles  above  their  heads 
at  an  equal  height.  These  roj^al  boatmen,  by  their  public 
training  on  the  river,  become  a pattern  for  all  others  in  the 
procession. 

Preceding  the  king’s  personal  barge  there  are  usually 
from  forty  to  sixty  royal  guard  boats,  over  one  hundred 
feet  long  and  from  five  to  six  feet  wide,  going  in  pairs. 
They  are  modelled  after  the  king’s  own  boat,  but  smaller, 
and  the  canopy  is  made  of  whitish  leaves,  resembling  the 
palm  leaf,  sewed  together,  and  ornamented  with  crimson 
cloth,  bordered  with  yellow.  Under  the  bow  and  stern  of 
these  boats  flaunt  a pair  of  long  gray  tassels,  made  of  the 
fibres  of  pine-apple  leaves,  and  between  each  of  these  hangs 
a small  golden  banner.  They  have  fifty  or  more  paddlers, 
and  two  men  in  each  boat  beat  time  with  a long  pole 
decorated  with  white  tassels,  which  they  lift  up  and  strike 
down  endwise  on  the  deck  of  the  boat. 

In  the  rear  of  the  king’s  barge  come  princes,  nobles, 
officers,  and  multitudes  of  still  lower  grades,  who  all  follow 
the  king  to  the  temples  in  boats  of  various  fashions,  down 


HOLIDA  VS  IN  SIAM. 


189 


to  the  simple  one-oared  skiff,  with  its  single  half-naked 
occupant.  Each  prince  and  nobleman  sits  proudly  under 
his  own  canopy,  attired  in  his  best  court  robes,  having  duly 
arranged  about  him  his  gold  or  silver  water-pot  and  teapot, 
and  betel  and  cigar  boxes,  all  of  which  have  been  given 
him  by  the  king  as  insignia  of  his  rank  and  office.  And  to 
complete  the  display  of  dignity,  each  one  has,  or  rather 
used  to  have,  two  or  more  servants  prostrate  before  him, 
with  their  heads  at  his  feet. 

The  boatmen  have  various  colored  liveries.  Those  of 
the  king’s  di'agon  barge  and  its  mate  usually  wear  red 
jackets  and  caps.  On  the  guard-boats  we  see  many  colors ; 
some  have  red  jackets  and  leather  caps  of  ancient  style ; in 
others  the  men  have  only  short  pants  and  a narrow  fillet 
of  palm  leaf  about  their  heads,  with  a point  of  the  same  on 
their  foreheads.  Brass  bands  follow  in  the  procession,  and 
companies  of  native  performers,  who  furnish  the  music  for 
the  moving  panorama. 

The  fioating  and  other  houses  along  the  line  of  the 
king’s  advance  have  each  prepared  a little  table  or  altar, 
upon  which  they  display  the  choicest  fruits  and  flowers, 
wax-caudles,  pictures,  and  other  ornaments,  as  mai'ks  of 
respect  to  their  sovereign.  The  native  and  foreign  ship- 
ping disj)lay  all  their  colors.  The  small  craft  on  the  river 
and  canals  where  he  is  to  come  clear  out  for  the  time  to 
make  a wide  and  open  passage  for  him.  Formerly  none 
were  allowed  to  watch  this  royal  procession,  except  from 
behind  closed  doors  or  windows,  but  now  all  such  restric- 
tions are  withdrawn,  and  the  people  seem  to  enjoy  the 
sight  of  the  king,  and  take  part  in  the  general  rejoicings. 

The  or  priests’  garments,  being  neatly  folded 

and  put  up  in  bundles  of  a suit  each,  are  borne  with  the 
king  in  the  royal  throne  barge.  "W^hen  he  arrives  at  the 
landing  of  a temple,  he  remains  seated  until  several  suits  of 
the  yellow  robes  have  been  carried  up  to  the  door  of  the 


190 


SIAM. 


idol-house,  acd  put  in  care  of  an  official,  to  await  the 
approach  of  His  Majesty,  and  until  other  officers  of  state 
and  a company  of  infantry,  together  with  the  musicians, 
have  had  time  to  leave  their  boats  and  place  themselves  in 
position  for  receiving  him.  The  hand-rail  of  the  steps 
which  the  king  ascends  is  wound  with  white  cotton  cloth, 
and  the  flagged  path  from  the.  landing  to  the  idol  temple  is 
cov'ered  with  grass  matting,  exclusively  for  him  to  walk 
upon.  When  the  king  is  in  the  act  of  ascending  the  steps 
of  the  landing,  “ Old  Siam  ” blows  her  pipes  and  conch- 
shells,  and  beats  her  drums ; the  military  form  in  double 
line  and  present  arms,  and  the  brass  band  plays  the  national 
anthem  or  some  other  modern  air. 

Having  reached  the  door  of  the  “ iote,'”  the  king  takes 
one  suit  of  the  priests’  robes,  and  bearing  them  in  both 
hands,  walks  in,  and  lays  them  on  a table  prepared  for  that 
purpose.  On  this  table  are  flve  golden  vases  of  flowers ; 
five  golden  dishes  of  parched  rice,  tastefully  arranged  in 
the  form  of  bouquets,  five  golden  candlesticks  with  their 
candles,  and  five  incense-sticks.  His  Majesty  first  lights 
the  candles  and  incense-sticks.  He  then  worships  the 
image  of  Buddha,  the  sacred  books,  and  the  assembled 
priests.  He  next  makes  a recpiest  of  the  chief-priest  to 
renew  his  covenant  to  observe  the  five  rules  of  the  Buddhist 
religion.  These  are : First,  that  he  will  not  take  the  life 
of  any  man  or  other  sentient  creature ; second,  that  he  will 
not  oppress  any  man;  tliird,  that  he  will  not  take  to  wife 
any  woman  belonging  to  another,  while  there  is  the  least 
unwillingness  on  the  part  of  the  woman,  or  of  her  parents 
or  guardians,  to  the  transaction ; fourth,  that  he  will  not 
lie,  nor  deal  falsely  with  mankind,  nor  use  abusive  language ; 
fifth,  that  he  mil  not  use  intoxicating  liquors  as  a beverage. 
'When  the  king  visits  the  tenii-le,  if  it  luqqien  to  be  one  of 
tlieir  four  sacred  days,  then  custom  makes  it  necessa'  y for 
him  to  promise  to  observe  three  other  rules  in  addition  to 


HOLIDA  VS  TX  SIAM. 


191 


the  above  five,  viz. : First,  tliat  lie  v'ill  not  partake  of  any 
food  from  after  midday  on  aiij^  sacred  day  until  tlie  next 
morning  after  light  has  appeared ; second,  that  he  will  not 
on  sacred  days  indulge  in  any  theatrical  or  musical  ]>er- 
formauces,  nor  in  any  way  allow  or  cause  his  person  to  be 
perfumed ; third,  that  he  will  not  on  such  days  sleep  ou  a 
bed  that  is  more  than  ten  and  a haK  inches  high,  nor  use 
any  mattress,  and  that  he  will  deny  himself  as  becometh  a 
devout  Buddhist,  If  the  king  is  conscious  of  having  trans- 
gressed any  of  these  rules  since  he  last  renewed  his  obliga- 
tion, he  is  supposed  to  confess  his  sins  mentally  before  the 
idol,  and  to  promise  solemnly  that  he  will  earnestly  en- 
deavor to  depart  from  all  such  sins  in  the  future. 

His  Majesty  having  renewed  his  covenant  obligation, 
then  proceeds  to  make  a formal  presentation  of  his  olfering 
to  the  priests  of  that  temple ; whereupon  they  respond  in 
the  Pali  tongue,  “ Satoo  ! satoo  ! ” (Good  ! good  !).  The 
chief-priest  then  addresses  the  fraternity  as  follows  : “ This 
^ pa-katin’’ been  given  to  us  by  Ills  Most  Illustrious 
Majesty  the  King,  who  being  endued  with  exceeding  great 
ffoodness  and  riu'hteousness,  has  condescended  to  come 
hither  himself,  and  present  tliese  garments  to  us,  a com- 
pany of  Buddhist  priests,  without  designating  any  particu- 
lar person  by  whom  they  shall  be  worn.”  They  then  dis- 
tribute the  gifts  among  themselves,  after  which  they  bow 
down  and  worship  the  idol,  reciting  a few  Pali  sentences. 
This  distribution  of  garments  is  not  always  done  in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  king,  but  sometimes  after  he  has  left  the  tem- 
ple. The  late  king,  Maha  Mongkut,  made  an  innovation  on 
this  old  custom,  by  bringing  wnth  him  extra  suits  of  yellow 
robes,  and  giving  them  to  certain  priests  who  had  distin- 
guished themselves  as  Pali  scholars.  It  is  also  usual  to 
make  a few  other  gifts  to  the  priests  of  such  things  as  they 
are  apt  to  need,  as  bedding  and  table  furniture  ; but  these 
are  not  considered  any  part  of  the  real  “ katin.” 


192 


SIAM. 


As  the  hing  is  about  to  leave  the  temple,  the  priests  pro- 
nounce a Pali  blessing  upon  him,  and  he  again  worships 
the  idol,  the  sacred  books,  and  the  priests.  Then  rising 
from  his  prostration,  he  walks  out  of  the  “ bote  ” and  de- 
scends to  the  royal  barge,  with  the  same  ceremonies  as 
when  he  ascended.  lie  visits  five  or  six  temples  in  a day, 
and  usually  spends  about  an  hour  in  each  one.  The  value 
of  each  priest’s  suit  which  the  king  offers  is  supposed  to  be 
about  $18.00,  and  so  the  aggregate  value  of  the  offerings 
he  makes  on  these  successive  days  is  probably  not  less  than 
$18,000 ! 

And  this  is  but  one  of  the  kings,  and  in  but  one  city ; 
while  the  second  king  follows  with  but  little  diminution 
of  royal  sjfiendor  and  bounty  both  in  his  processions  and 
offerings,  and  there  are  scores  of  princes  and  princesses, 
hundreds  of  noblemen  and  thousands  of  the  people,  yea, 
millions  of  them,  for  all  who  are  able  to  do  even  a little  join 
in  the  supposed  merit-making.  It  is  at  such  times  that  they 
present  those  immense  wax  candles,  as  large  round  as  the 
body  of  a man,  and  which  burn  unceasingly  for  weeks,  and 
the  wax  represents  the  many  gifts  of  the  very  poor,  some 
of  whom  cannot  count  on  an  income  of  four  cents  per  day. 
In  the  land  processions  they  often  have  white  elephants 
made  of  wicker-work  and  covered  with  cloth  or  paper,  upon 
which  they  pile  their  gifts,  while  the  people  drag  his  car 
through  the  streets. 

With  all  these  public  holidays  which  receive  the  royal 
sanction  we  might  almost  call  the  Siamese  year  a circle  of 
holidays,  and  when  Christmas,  Washington’s  birthday,  and 
Fourth  of  July  are  added,  besides  Queen  Yietoria’s  natal 
day  and  that  of  all  other  foreign  sovereigns  represented  by 
consular  establishments  in  Siam,  it  will  be  seen  that  we  do 
not  live  and  move  in  a “ workaday  world.” 


CHAPTEE  XXI. 


SIAIVIESE  TliTES,  SEASONS,  AND  CTSTOIIS. 

The  Siamese  have  two  years,  civil  and  religious ; also 
two  cycles,  oi^  within  the  other,  of  twelve  and  ten  years. 
In  the  first  cycle,  each  of  the  twelve  years  bears  the  name 
of  some  creature.  Here  they  are  in  order ; First,  the  year 
of  the  rat;  then  follow,  cow,  tiger,  rabbit,  great  dragon, 
small  dragon,  horse,  goat,  monkey,  cock,  dog,  and  hog. 
Those  of  the  other  cycle  are  simply  numbered.  Their  sa- 
cred era  is  reckoned  from  the  time  it  is  supposed  Buddha 
died,  which  was  2,427  years  ago,  at  the  full  moon  in  May, 
1884.  Thus  we  see  the  Buddhist  era  antedates  the  Chris- 
tian 543  years.  This  reckoning  is  never  used  except  in 
their  religious  matters,  and  in  counting  their  ages.  Their 
civil  era  dates  from  the  time  Pra  Euang,  one  of  the  Siam- 
ese kings,  established  it,  and  has  now  reached  1245.  The 
sacred  era  year  begins  with  the  new  moon  in  December, 
and  the  civil  near  the  full  moon  in  April.  Their  years  are 
twelve  months  long.  Six  of  their  months  have  thirty  days, 
and  six  have  but  twenty-nine,  and  such  a year  wants  eleven 
days  to  make  up  a full  solar  year.  To  compensate  for  this 
they  have  an  intercalary  month  of  thirty  days  once  in  three 
years.  By  this  plan  there  is  still  a loss  of  about  three  days 
in  nineteen  years,  which  is  supplied  by  adding  a day  to 
their  seventh  month  from  time  to  time  as  their  Brahmin 
astrologers  see  to  be  necessary.  Their  first  two  months 
have  names,  and  the  others  are  simply  numbered.  If  one 
is  asked  the  time  of  his  birth,  the  answer  may  be,  “ In  the 
seventh  month,  year  of  the  horse.”  They  have  the  week, 
9 (193) 


194 


SIAM. 


but  no  name  to  designate  it.  The  first  day  is  called  Sun- 
day, the  second  Moon-day ; then  follow  Mars,  Mercury,  Ju- 
piter, \ euus,  and  Saturn,  and  when  spealdng  of  their  weeks 
they  say  so  many  Sundays. 

There  are  four  watches  of  three  hours  each  in  the  day, 
and  the  same  in  the  night ; but  the  constantly  increasing 
use  of  ■watches  and  clocks  is  gradually  changing  their  horol- 
ogy. Like  other  idolati’ous  nations  the  moon  is  one  of  their 
principal  objects  of  sujierstition,  and  the  first,  eighth,  fif- 
teenth, and  twenty-second  days  of  the  moon  are  holy  days, 
and  they  call  them  days  of  the  Lord.  The  Buddhist  priests 
have  their  heads  and  eyebrows  shaved  the  eve  of  the  first 
and  fifteenth  of  each  month,  and  then  are  ready  on  those 
sacred  days  to  preach  and  chant  wherever  indted.  They 
are  great  believei’s  in  lucky  and  unlucky  days,  and  astrol- 
ogers are  consulted  concerning  all  things  grave  and  fool- 
ish— as  the  most  lucky  day  for  a wedding,  a cremation,  a 
hair-cutting,  the  beginning  of  public  works,  the  consecra- 
tion of  a temple  or  palace,  the  best  day  for  starting  on  a 
journey,  or  entering  a battle,  or  even  starting  to  school ; 
they  say  Thimsday  is  school-day,  and  Sunday  the  most  lucky 
day  of  all  the  week.  Our  mission  physician  would  have 
more  patients  on  Sunday  than  any  other  day  if  he  would 
only  receive  them. 

All  festival  occasions  are  celebrated  for  three  days.  On 
the  first  of  these,  at  their  April  Xew-Tear,  they  believe 
that  the  master  of  hell  opens  all  the  gates  and  lets  the  souls 
go  free  to  feast  in  the  bosom  of  their  families,  where  they 
are  splendidly  entertained.  The  priests  go  to  the  palace  to 
jDreach  to  the  king,  and  at  the  close  of  the  discourse  cannons 
are  fired  to  drive  away  the  devils,  and  to  frighten  the  old 
souls  back  to  hell.  All  eternity  is  divided  into  ~kops.,  and  a 
Siamese  kop  is  measimed  by  a stone  ten  miles  square,  and 
once  in  a hundred  years  an  angel  -wipes  it  off  -with  a gossa- 
mer web ; and  when  the  stone  shall  by* these  century-wip- 


'SIAMESE  TIMES,  SEASONS,  AND  CUSTOMS.  195 


ings  be  worn  away,  a Jcop  will  have  passed.  It  is  said  that 
the  king  has  a conjurer  at  court,  who  also  decides  the  lucky 
and  unlucky  days  and  prophesies,  hut  woe  to  him  if  his 
good  pretlictions  prove  false.  If  evil  ones  fail  of  fulfilment, 
he  cunningly  insists  that  they  were  averted  by  the  merit  of 
the  king  and  his  people.  When  the  king  dies,  all  his  sub- 
jects must  put  on  white  as  mourning,  and  shave  their  heads. 
Yv’^hen  a queen  dies,  only  the  women  and  officers  of  her 
household  are  required  to  do  so. 

In  capital  punishment  the  victim  is  usually  beheaded. 
After  taking  a soothing  draught,  provided  by  merciful 
Buddhists  who  wish  to  make  merit,  his  eyes  are  bandaged 
and  his  ears  stuffed  with  mud,  and  thus  he  is  at  least  pai-- 
tially  unconscious  of  the  stroke  that  destroys  his  life. 
Sometimes  they  are  beaten  and  exposed  through  the  mar- 
ket-places, and  up  and  down  the  river,  before  execution. 
A notable  instance  of  the  latter  was  seen  in  the  late  Pra 
Pre  Cha,  a nobleman  of  high  rank  and  a special  favorite  of 
the  king,  who  was  guilty  of  many  crimes  and  misdemeanors, 
lie  received  ninety  lashes,  was  then  loaded  with  chains, 
and  paraded  by  river  and  road  for  six  days,  and  after  de- 
capitation his  head  was  eai’ried  on  a pole.  Some  offenders, 
instead  of  being  executed,  are  degraded  from  all  titles  and 
rank,  and  cojidemued  to  cut  grass  for  elephants  for  life. 
They  ai’e  branded  on  the  forehead,  and  have  to  cut  the 
grass  themselves ; no  one  is  allowed  to  help  them,  nor  can 
they  buy  it  with  their  own  money. 

Agriculture  in  Siam  is  carried  on  in  the  most  primitive 
style.  The  ploughs  are  crooked  sticks,  with  oue  handle. 
The  runner  and  mould-board  is  a natural  crotch  ; the  shorter 
branch  is  the  mould-board,  mid  the  longer  is  left  some  tv.’O 
feet  long  and  ten  inches  round,  and  comes  to  a point  to  re- 
ceive the  socket  of  the  ploughshare,  which  is  little  larger 
than  a man’s  hand,  made  of  cast-iron  iu  a sort  of  triangular 
shape.  It  bulges  out  into  a socket  on  the  under  side  to  re- 


196 


SIAM. 


ceive  tlie  nose  of  tlie  runner,  and  is  never  pennanently 
fastened  to  its  place,  as  the  owner  must  knock  it  off  at 
night  and  carry  it  home  to  secure  it  from  thieves.  The 
wood  part  of  the  plough  costs  about  one  dollar,  and  the  iron 
share  fifteen  cents.  It  cuts  a furrow  two  inches  deep  and 
five  or  six  wide,  and  there  is  so  little  curve  to  the  mould- 
board  that  it  does  not  turn  over  more  than  half  the  clods 
broken  up.  The  man  or  woman  holds  it  by  the  one  handle, 
and  guides  the  oxen  or  buffalo  by  a rope  passed  through 
the  nose.  The  yoke  ls  slightly  curved  to  fit  the  neck ; but 
instead  of  ox-bows,  such  as  we  use,  they  have  straight  sticks 
run  through  the  yoke  on  either  side  of  the  neck,  and  tied 
together  by  ropes  or  withes  at  the  bottom  to  keep  the  neck 
in.  If  one  animal  is  used,  there  is  a short  beam  and  a rude 
whitfletree  with  long  rope  traces  fastened  to  the  outside  of 
the  yoke ; if  two  oxen  or  buffalo  are  needed,  they  use  a 
longer  beam  and  the  yoke  is  fastened  directly  to  it,  and 
thus  they  drag  the  plough  along.  The  end  of  the  beam 
is  often  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  beyond  the  yoke  and 
cmwes  gracefully  upward,  and  is  ornamented  with  fiowers 
and  peacock’s-feathers  or  red  string's,  and  the  heads  of  the 
oxen  are  kept  up  by  being  fastened  to  it  by  short  bridles. 
The  harrow  is  simply  a large  rake  with  wooden  teeth,  and 
a bamboo  tongue  long  enough  to  reach  to  the  yoke  and 
allow  the  oxen  to  hold  their  heads  up.  It  has  an  oval  han- 
dle to  aid  in  lifting  it  up  to  shake  off  the  grass  and  stubble, 
and  to  bear  down  upon  when  the  clods  are  hard  to  break. 

They  sprout  the  rice  and  then  sew  it  as  thick  as  it  can 
grow  in  little  patches  that  are  easily  watched  and  watered. 
When  it  is  about  a foot  high  it  is  pulled  up  and  tied  in 
bunches  and  taken  to  the  fields  that  have  been  ploughed 
and  harrowed  and  are  covered  with  from  six  to  eio-ht  inches 
of  water.  Then  the  men,  women,  and  children  turn  out 
to  duinnak,  literally  ‘‘  dive  into  the  rice-fields.”  They 
transplant  the  rice,  thrusting  the  stalks  with  hands  and  feet 


SIAMESE  TIMES,  SEASONS,  AND  CUSTOMS.  197 


into  tlie  soft  mud  beneath  the  water.  A good  diver  can  set 
out  a third  of  an  acre  a daj.  Field  hands  cost  from  four 
to  six  dollars  a mouth  and  board  themselves.  This  plant- 
ing-time may  last  from  June  to  October,  and  then  if  it  is  a 
good  year  with  proper  rain  and  sunshine  the  harvest  may 
be  all  gathered  by  Christmas.  In  some  places  it  is  neces- 
sary to  irrigate,  and  the  native  ways  are  many  and  mostly 
of  great  antiquity.  Besides  ordinary  ditching  and  flood- 
ing, “ a basket  holding  six  or  eight  gallons  is  pitched  withiu 
and  without  to  prevent  its  leaking,  and  so  rigged  midway 
between  four  small  ropes  twelve  feet  long,  that  two  little 
girls,  holding  them  by  their  ends,  so  swing  them  as  to  make 
the  basket  dip  up  several  gallons  of  water  from  the  canal 
every  two  seconds,  and  tilt  it  over  the  little  dam  into  the 
rice  patch.  The  plot  near  the  canal  being  thus  inundated, 
and  protected  by  dikes,  the  surplus  is  distributed  to  more 
distant  patches,  by  a large  wooden  scoop,  so  suspended  that 
a slight  movement  of  the  hand  makes  it  scoop  up  gallons 
of  water  from  a little  pond,  and  then  by  another  jerk  of 
the  arm  tilts  it  over  the  dike  to  the  next  fleld,  and  by  re- 
peating this  process,  in  time  the  whole  farm  is  properly 
watered.  Sometimes  the  old-fashioned  well-sweep  is  used 
and  the  water  emptied  from  the  buckets  into  an  elevated 
trough,  from  which  it  flows  to  the  rice-fields.  Another 
mode  consists  of  a series  of  some  twenty  small  buckets, 
linked  together,  tAvelve  inches  apart,  made  to  revolve  on 
a rude  wooden  windlass,  worked  by  two  men  holding  on 
to  a horizontal  pole  and  treading  on  arms  or  treadles  at- 
tached to  the  shaft  around  which  the  buckets  revolve. 
The  buckets  run  up  in  an  inclined  trough  made  to  corre- 
spond quite  accurately  with  their  size,  so  that  most  of  the 
water  they  dip  is  carried  up  and  tilted  over  an  embank- 
ment, when  they  run  back  again  under  the  trough  to  the 
canal  for  another  draught.”  This  is  “waterincy  the  land 
with  the  foot.”  I have  never  seen  water-wheels  in  Siam, 


198 


S/AJIL 


such  as  are  so  common  in  Xorth  Laos.  If  the  fields  are 
drj  tliej  reap  with  a sickle,  and  hind  and  stack ; if  the 
Avater  has  not  yet  gone  down  they  must  wade  or  go  in 
boats,  and  cut  off  the  heads,  which  resemble  oats  n'ore  than 
wheat,  an  I gather  by  handfuls  into  baskets.  Siamese  rice 
is  considered  among  the  very  best  in  the  world,  and  on 
good  ground,  is  veiy  fruitful,  yielding  sixty  and  a hundred 
fold. 

To  prepare  a threshing  floor,  the  gi’ass  is  taken  off  and 
the  ground  made  smooth  and  level,  and  hardened  with  a 
coat  of  plaster  made  of  cow-dung  and  water.  A pole  is 
planted  in  the  centre,  ornamented  with  a bamboo  flgure 
called  Ta  Poo^  shaped  like  a man,  and  they  also  tie  up 
some  of  the  best  rice-heads  to  the  pole  for  the  birds,  and 
hei’e  in  the  moonlight  nights  the  rice  is  threshed  out  by 
the  treading  of  the  cattle  and  buffaloes,  tied  side  by  side, 
the  inner  one  fastened  to  a loose  band  around  the  post.  A 
boy  usually  holds  the  tail  of  the  outer  beast  Avith  one  hand, 
an  ox  goad  in  the  other,  noAV  tAvisting  the  tail  of  the  poor 
creature,  noAV  thrusting  him  with  the  goad,  and  continually 
shouting  and  swearing  to  speed  his  Avay,  that  the  inner  one 
might  by  a slow  walk  keep  pace  with  him  in  trotting.  We 
have  often  gone  to  the  royal  threshing  floor  at  Petchaburee. 
It  is  an  exciting  scene.  The  Avdld,  half-naked  natives  shout- 
ing, and  driving  the  cattle  round  and  round;  the  nude  chil- 
dren laughing  and  tumbling  in  the  straAv  ; the  lamps  swinging 
from  the  poles ; the  fitful  bonfires ; and  the  governor  mov- 
ing about  in  his  Oriental  dress  and  European  smoking-cap. 

The  rice  is  cleaned  by  winnowing  it  in  the  AA'ind,  by 
pouring  from  Avide,  shalloAV  baskets.  It  is  then  measured 
and  counted  as  it  is  stored  aAvay  in  bins,  which  are  built 
on  a raised  platform.  These  are  immense  bamboo  hogs- 
h.eads,  woA'en  in  badvet-Avork,  and  thickly  plastered  over 
the  OAitside  Avith  mud.  They  are  covered  Avith  a roof  of 
leaves.  Here  the  grain  is  kept  for  use  or  sale,  and  a good 


SIAMESE  TIMES,  SEASONS,  AND  CUSTOMS.  199 


■way  to  reckon  a farmer’s  wealth  is  by  counting  his  well- 
filled  rice-hins.  The  rice  is  usually  hulled  by  the  women 
and  slaves,  who  pound  it  in  a mortar  with  a pestle,  till  the 
plump  white  grain  is  separated  from  the  brown  hulls,  blot 
oidy  the  people,  but  their  horses,  cattle,  dogs,  chickens, 
birds,  monkeys,  everything  that  lives  in  Siam,  almost,  eats 
rice. 

The  farmers  usually  huddle  together  in  little  villages, 
for  mutual  protection  and  company,  while  their  fields  lie 
unfenced  on  all  sides.  Cattle  are  herded  all  the  year  round, 
and  in  spite  of  the  utmost  -dgilance,  they  are  still  driven  off 
by  thieves,  or  trespass  on  the  rice-fields,  causing  endless 
trouble  and  lawsuits. 

If  a Siamese  wants  to  be  regularly  married,  it  is  a source 
of  a deal  of  trouble.  lie  dare  not  ask  for  the  bride  him- 
self, but  must  negotiate  through  friends  in  a very  slow, 
roundabout  way.  When  the  parents’  consent  is  given,  the 
bride  must  be  purchased.  This  price  is  often  her  redemp- 
tion from  the  master  to  whom  her  parents  have  sold  her,  or 
if  not  a slave,  the  money  is  given  to  the  parents,  and  is 
called  Tia  nom,  “the  price  of  the  mother’s  milk”  with 
which  the  bride  was  nourished  in  infancy.  Then  gifts  are 
sent  to  the  parents  and  a lucky  day  selected  for  the  wedding. 
On  that  day  the  groom  goes  with  his  friends,  carrying  gifts 
to  the  bride’s  home.  These  consist  of  trays  of  betel-nuts  and 
sweetmeats.  Buddhist  priests  are  present,  and  they  are  feast- 
ed with  the  choicest  of  all  the  good  things.  Sometimes 
the  bride  and  groom  bow  together  before  the  priests,  and 
are  sprinkled  or  bathed  ■with  holy  water.  But  this  part  of 
the  ceremony  is  often  omitted,  and  they  are  considered 
married  as  soon  as  the  money  for  the  bride  is  paid  over. 
Tliis  money  is  often  returned  to  the  young  mother  on  the 
birth  of  her  first  child,  to  aid  in  its  maintenance.  But  the 
usual  way  in  Siam  is  to  fall  in  love  with  each  other  and  run 
off,  and  then  come  back  in  three  days  and  beg  pardon,  and 


200 


SIAM. 


make  it  up  tlie  best  way  they  can  with  the  outraged  old 
folks,  who  ten  to  one  did  that  very  same  way  themselves 
when  they  were  young. 

Divorce  is  even  easier  then  getting' married.  A man  can 
desert  his  wives  at  will,  and  get  others  whenever  he  pleases ; 
but  the  most  genteel  way  to  do  it  is  to  enter  the  priesthood 
at  a Buddhist  monastery,  and  be  worshipped  as  a god  for  a 
few  months,  and  then  come  forth  free.  There  is  neither 
law  nor  moral  sentiment  to  prevent  or  restrain  such  con- 
duct. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


ELEPHANTS. 

Great  immbers  of  these  useful  and  sagacious  beasts  are 
roaming  wild  in  the  forests  and  jungles  of  Siam.  A large 
berd  belonging  to  tbe  Government  is  pastured  near  Aju- 
tbia,  tbe  old  capital,  and  once  eacb  year  tbe  king  goes  up 
to  cboose  from  those  that  are  decoyed  or  driven  into  tbe 
stockade  such  as  be  needs  for  service.  They  are  used  for 
travel,  for  beasts  of  burden,  for  timber-workers  in  tbe 
teak  forests,  and  a part  of  tbe  regular  army  is  composed  of 
elephant  troops. 

Siamese  elephants  are  tbe  usual  color  and  size.  They 
are  from  twelve  to  thirteen  feet  in  height.  Their  ordinary 
pace  is  four  or  five  miles  an  hour,  and  if  properly  fed  they 
will  travel  all  day  and  all  night.  They  strike  the  ground 
with  their  trunk  when  weary,  and  make  a loud  sound,  as  a 
signal  to  the  driver  that  they  want  to  stop.  Their  trumpet- 
ings  are  fearful.  They  have  only  three  toes  on  their  bui-ly 
feet,  and,  to  be  considered  handsome,  they  must  have  black 
toe-nails,  large,  smooth  tusks,  and  perfect  tails.  The  drivers 
are  called  “ Elephant  doctors,”  * and  usually  sit  perched  on 
the  animal’s  head.  The  native  howdahs  are  made  of  wood, 
with  bamboo  coverings,  and  look  not  unlike  a buggy-top. 
They  are  quite  large ; one  can  almost  lie  down  in  them  to 
nap  while  on  the  ci’eature’s  back.  Some  very  beautiful 
and  costly  ones  are  made  for  the  king  and  princes,  inlaid 
with  ivory,  silver,  and  gold. 

* Mow  Chang. 

9* 


(201) 


202 


SIAM. 


Elephants  are  not  now  used  in  Siam  as  much  as  in  Laos. 
There  they  are  a daily  sight  in  the  streets  of  Cheung  ]\Iai. 
There  are  many  more  comfortable  ways  of  travelling  than 
on  an  elephant’s  back.  The  immense  creature  moves  with 
a swaying,  swinging  motion,  that  to  the  unaccustomed 
very  often  produces  sea-sickness.  And  yet  as  a means  of 
transportation  over  otherwise  impassable  places  he  does  very 
wejl.  He  is  careful  and  sure-footed,  can  climb  steep  moun- 
tains, and  when  descending  the  opposite  side  will  get  down, 
and  pushing,  or  rather  supporting  himself  with  his  fore 
feet  and  letting  his  hind  legs  drag  behind  him,  lie  will 
slowly  slide  down  on  his  belly.  He  will  swim  deep  rivers 
and  make  a path  for  himself  and  rider  through  the  tangled 
forests,  and  provide  his  own  food  by  gathering  branches 
and  twigs  in  his  trunk  and  eating  as  he  goes  along. 

Among  the  Laos  “ the  thorough  manner  in  which  they 
go  to  work  to  break  in  the  young  elephants  is  remarkable. 
They  tie  the  feet  in  pairs,  and  suspend  the  body  by  large 
ropes  to  a beam  above,  so  that  the  feet  just  touch  the 
ground,  and  the  poor  creature  is  unmercifully  speared  and 
pounded  till  he  is  covered  with  blood  and  wounds.  He  is 
then  let  down,  and  if  not  subdued,  is  returned  to  the  swing 
and  the  process  repeated.  But  when  he  learns  his  lesson 
well  it  is  never  forgotten,  and  he  becomes  as  submissive  as 
he  is  intelligent.” 

In  the  immense  teak  forests  near  Bahang,  over  six 
hundred  elephants  are  employed  in  carrying  wood  to 
the  river.  They  are  valued  at  from  two  hundred  and  fifty 
to  one  thousand  dollars  each.  Dr.  Field,  in  one  of  his 
trips  round  the  world,  risited  the  timber-yards  both  at 
Rangoon  and  Maulmain,  Burmah,  and  he  says : 

“ I bave  never  seen  any  animals  showing  such  intelligence 
and  trained  to  such  docility  and  obedience.  In  the  yard  that 
we  visited  there  were  seven  elephants,  five  of  which  were  at 
tliat  moment  at  w’ork.  Their  wonderful  strength  came  into 


ELEPHANTS. 


203 


play  in  moving  huge  pieces  of  timber.  I did  not  measure  the 
logs,  but  should  think  that  many  were  at  least  twenty  feet  long 
and  a foot  square.  Yet  a male  elephant  would  stoop  dowm  and 
run  hLs  tusks  under  a log,  and  throw  his  truaik  over  it,  and 
walk  off  with  it  as  lightly  as  a gentleman  would  balance  a 
bamboo  cane  on  the  tip  of  his  finger.  Placing  it  on  the  pile,  he 
would  measure  it  with  his  eye,  and  if  it  projected  too  far  at  either 
end,  would  walk  up  to  it,  and  with  a gentle  push  or  pull  make 
the  pile  even.  If  a still  heavier  log  needed  to  be  moved  on  the 
ground  to  some  part  of  the  yard,  the  mahout,  sitting  on  the 
elephant’s  head,  would  tell  him  what  to  do,  and  the  great 
creature  seemed  to  have  a perfect  imderstanding  of  the  master’s 
wiU.  He  would  put  out  his  enormous  foot  and  push  it  along, 
or  he  would  bend,  and  crouching  half-way  to  the  ground,  and 
doubling  up  his  trunk  in  front,  throw  his  whole  weight  against 
it,  and  thus,  like  a ram,  would  ‘ butt  ’ the  log  into  its  place ; or  if 
needed  to  be  taken  a greater  distance,  he  would  put  a chain 
around  it  and  drag  it  behind  him.  The  female  elephant  espe- 
cially was  employed  in  drawing,  as,  having  no  tusks,  she  could 
not  lift  like  her  big  brothers,  but  could  only  move  by  her  power 
of  traction  and  attraction.  Then  using  her  trunk  as  deftly  as  a 
lady  woiild  use  her  fingers,  she  would  untie  the  knot  or  unhitch 
the  chain,  and  return  to  her  master,  perhaps  putting  out  her 
trunk  to  receive  a banana  as  a reward  for  her  good  conduct.  It 
was  indeed  a very  pretty  sight,  and  it  gave  us  an  entirely  new 
idea  of  their  value,  and  of  the  way  in  which  they  can  be  trained 
for  the  service  of  man. 

‘ ‘ Dr.  Collins,  an  American  missionary,  who  made  an  over- 
land trip  from  Bangkok  to  Burmah,  liad  many  opportunites  for 
observing  the  nature  and  habits  of  these  lordly  creatures.  On 
arriving  at  their  resting-place  for  the  night,  it  was  usual  to  turn 
the  elephants,  partially  fettered,  among  the  bamboos,  and  nearly 
all  night  long  they  could  hear  the  snapping  of  the  tall  reeds  in 
order  that  the  leaves  might  be  stripped  off  for  food,  and  they 
always  knew  where  the  elephants  were  by  the  tinkle  of  their 
baml)oo-bells.  Some  of  the  drivers,  however,  were  always  on 
the  watch,  and  some  one  of  the  elephants  was  sure  to  be  a 
favorite. 

“ When  they  were  grazing  in  the  jungle,  bright  fires  were 
kindled  tliat  blazed  the  long  night  through.  The  drivers  on 
these  occasions  always  boiled  their  rice  in  hollow  gi-een  bamboo 


204 


SIAM. 


joints,  and  frequently  the  elephants  would  come  forward  for 
hits  of  rice  and  salt,  and  then  retire.  He  was  awakened  one 
night  out  of  a sound  sleep,  and  looking  tow^ard  the  blaze,  espied 
one  of  the  huge  brutes  seated  on  his  haunches,  like  an  immense 
dog  or  bear,  warming  himself  by  the  fire.  Grave,  comical,  and 
strange  the  scene  appeared  in  the  solemn  midnight  of  the 
tropical  forest.  In  his  journey  he  used  fourteen  different  ele- 
phants, and  all  of  them,  without  exception,  behaved  in  the 
most  gentle,  intelligent,  and  patient  manner,  mutual  affection 
seeming  to  subsist  between  master  and  beast.  Though  he  would 
not  go  so  far  as  to  dignify  a mere  mass  of  matter  ^vith  divine 
honom,  as  some  Siamese  do  their  so-called  white  elephants,  yet 
he  was  fully  persuaded  that  most  of  the  wonderful  stories  told 
of  these  noble  brutes  are  strictly  true.” 

The  elephant  is  reckoned  by  naturalists  to  be  the  slowest 
breeder  of  all  known  animals,  and  one  has  taken  some 
pains  to  estimate  its  probable  minimum  of  natural  increase. 
As  he  was  laboring  to  show  how  quickly  the  earth  would 
he  overrun  with  animal  life  if  there  was  no  corresponding 
destruction,  he  reckons  a little  lower  than  the  reality.  “ It 
will  he  under  the  mark,”  he  says,  “ to  assume  that  it  breeds 
when  thirty  years  old,  and  goes  on  breeding  till  ninety 
years  old,  bringing  forth  three  pairs  of  young  in  this  in- 
terval. If  this  be  so,  at  the  end  of  the  fifth  century  there 
would  be  alive  15,000,000  elephants,  descended  from  the 
first  pair.” 

Africa  seems  to  be  the  chief  source  of  supply  for  ivory. 
There  were  one  hundred  and  twenty-nine  tons  offered  not 
long  since  in  London,  and  it  brought  £750  per  ton.  A 
large  proportion  of  the  ivory  in  the  markets  is  in  very 
small  tusks,  showing  that  many  elephants  are  destroyed  in 
early  youth.  One  of  the  largest  tusks  on  record  is  that  of 
an  African  elephant,  and  is  nine  feet  long,  twenty-one 
inches  in  girth,  and  weighs  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds. 
I do  not  think  elephants  are  ever  killed  in  Siam  for  their 
i\  ory.  The  tusks  are  only  gathered  from  those  who  die 


ELEPHANTS. 


205 


naturally.  The  killing  of  wild  elephants  is  prohibited  by 
the  king,  and  all  the  ivory  found  belongs  to  him. 

THE  WHITE  ELEPHANTS.’ 

During  a trip  to  Bangkok  in  1876,  we  saw  the  white 
elephant,  the  lion  and  tiger,  the  large  reclining  idol,  and 
the  little  image  called  the  Emerald  god.  I should  have 
seen  all  these  wonderful  things  when  I first  came  to  Siam. 
They  do  not  impress  me  now  as  they  would  doubtless  have 
done  then.  We  tried  to  see  the  Royal  Museum  and  the 
King’s  School,  but  they  would  not  admit  visitors  to  either 
of  them  on  that  day.  We  saw  enough,  however,  to  prove 
there  is  a royal  school,  and  we  hope  they  will  soon  be 
multiphed  all  over  the  kingdom. 

We  entered  the  palace  grounds  ■without  any  trouble,  the 
guards  allowing  us  to  pass.  But  when  we  were  ready  to 
go  out  an  old  soldier  sprang  up  and  shut  the  gates,  say- 
ing we  should  not  go  thi’ough  there.  Mrs.  B.  argnied  with 
him  a few  moments,  but  she  did  not  offer  him  a silver  key, 
so  we  had  to  turn  about  and  go  another  way.  By  doing  so 
we  stumbled  upon  the  elephants.  If  it  had  not  been  for 
that  crusty  old  soldier  we  would  have  missed  our  greatest 
sight,  for  we  had  entirely  forgotten  to  look  for  them. 

Before  speaking  of  what  we  saw  of  the  white  elephant, 
let  me  gather  a httle  from  other  writers. 

“ It  is  commonly  supposed  that  the  Buddhists  of  Siam  regard 
the  ‘ Chang  Phoonk,'  or  white  elephant,  as  a deity,  and  wor- 
ship it  accordmgly.  This,  however,  is  a mistaken  idea.  By 
then*  teachings  each  successive  Buddha,  in  passing  through  a 
series  of  transmigrations,  must  necessarily  have  occupied  in 
turn  the  form  of  white  animals,  particularly  the  dove,  the  mon- 
key, and  the  elephant.  Thus  almost  all  white  animals  are  held 
in  x-everence  hy  the  Siamese,  because  they  believe  they  were 
once  supeiior  human  beings.  The  white  elephant  especially  is 
supposed  to  be  animated  by  the  spirit  of  some  king  or  hei’o. 

“ Fx^xm  the  eax’liest  histoxac  times  the  kings  of  Siam  and  Bur- 


206 


SIAM. 


mall  have  anxiously  sought  foi’  the  white  elephant,  and  having 
had  the  rare  fortune  to  procure  one,  have  it  loaded  with  gifts 
and  dignities.  ‘ King  of  the  White  Elephants  ’ is  considered 
one  of  the  proudest" titles  of  which  the  monarchs  of  these  coun- 
tries can  boast,  and  was  first  assumed  in  Siam  by  the  sixteenth 
king  of  the  first  djmasty,  who  was  so  meritorious  as  to  secure 
seven  of  these  noble  beasts.  The  tenth  king  of  the  same  dynasty 
reigned  twenty-two  years,  but  all  that  history  records  of  that 
long  period  is  the  capture  of  a white  female  elephant  in  815. 
King  Tuang,  who  as  early  as  A.D.  457  introduced  the  Siamese 
aljjhabet,  which  he  handed  over  to  a conclave  of  Buddhist 
priests,  was  also  distinguished  as  the  possessor  of  a white  ele- 
phant with  black  tusks  ! — a very  important  fact  from  a Siamese 
point  of  view.  The  late  king  used  to  preserve  the  sldns  of  the 
defimct  creatures  in  alcohol. 

“ They  are  looked  upon  as  a symbol  of  kingly  authority  and 
prosperity,  and  to  be  without  one  would  be  taken  as  an  indica- 
tion of  the  displeasure  of  heaven.” 

In  the  journal  of  an  old  resident  in  Bangkok  we  find 
the  following  entry : 

“August  26,  1835.  Bangkok  is  in  mourning.  One  of  the 
king's  white  elephants  is  dangerously  ill.  The  king  trembles 
on  his  throne.  The  death  of  such  a highly  revered  creature 
seems  to  be  regarded  as  ominous  of  the  speedy  death  of  the 
king  himself,  because,  as  report  has  it,  both  his  father  and 
grandfather  deceased  immediately  after  the  death  of  a white 
elephant. 

“ The  flag  of  Siam  is  a veiy  curious  one  indeed,  a white  ele- 
phant on  a red  field,  and  very  oddly  it  must  look  if  ever  it  is 
necessaiy  to  hoist  it  upside  down  as  a signal  of  distress ; a signal 
eloquent  indeed,  for  anything  more  helpless  and  distressing 
than  this  clumsy  quadraped  in  that  position  can  hardly  be  im- 
agined. 

‘ ‘ Elephants  of  a white  color,  either  albinos  or  the  result  of 
some  leprous  disease — for  they  are  not  pure  white,  but  a sort  of 
yellowish  pink— are  occasionally  fomid.  Such  an  animal  when 
he  makes  his  appearance  in  the  forest  is  considered  sacred,  and 
no  effort  is  spaied  to  capture  him.  When  he  is  taken  the  glo- 
rious news  is  borne  to  the  king.  A wide  path  is  cut  through 


ELEPHANTS. 


207 


the  junj^les  he  must  traverse  on  his  way  to  the  river,  where  a 
great  floating  palace  of  wood,  ornamented  by  a gorgeous  roof 
and  hung  with  crimson  curtains,  awaits  him.  The  roof  is  liter- 
ally thatched  with  flowers,  and  the  floor  is  covered  with  a gilt 
matting.  He  is  suiTounded  by  a crowd  of  natives,  who  bathe 
him,  perfume  him,  fan  him,  feed  him,  and  sing  and  play  to 
him.  His  food  consists  of  the  finest  herbs,  the  tenderest  gi’asses, 
the  sweetest  sugar-cane,  the  mellowest  bananas,  the  brownest 
rice-cakes,  served  on  large  trays  of  gold  and  silver,  and  his  ch'ink 
is  perfumed  with  fragrant  flowers. 

“ As  he  neai-s  the  capital  the  king  and  his  court,  all  the  chief 
personages  of  the  kingdom,  and  a multitude  of  priests,  both 
Buddhist  and  Brahmin,  accompanied  by  troupes  of  players  and 
musicians,  come  out  to  meet  hun  and  conduct  him  with  all  the 
honora  to  his  stable  palace.  When  he  reaches  the  capital  in  a 
pavilion,  temporary  but  veiy  beautiful,  he  is  welcomed  with 
imiJOsLng  ceremonies  by  the  principal  members  of  the  royal 
household.  After  this,  thanksgiving  is  offered  up,  and  the  lordly 
beast  is  knighted  by  poui’ing  water  on  his  forehead  from  a conch- 
shell.  It  is  a sort  of  christening,  you  see  ; and  he  is  also  given 
a high-sounding  name  and  a title.  For  many  days  he  is  enter- 
tained with  a variety  of  dramatic  plays.  At  the  end  of  this 
periotl  he  is  conducted  with  great  pomp  to  his  sumptuous  quar- 
tera  within  the  precincts  of  the  first  king’s  palace,  where  he  is 
received  by  his  own  court  of  officers,  attendants,  and  slaves, 
who  install  him  in  his  flne  lodgings,  and  at  once  j)roceed  to  robe 
and  decorate  him.  Firat  the  court  jeweller  rings  his  tremendous 
tusks  with  massive  gold,  croAvns  him  with  a diadem  of  beaten 
gold  of  i)erfect  purity,  and  adorns  his  burly  neck  vuth  heavy 
golden  chains.  Next  he  is  robed  in  a superb  velvet  cloak  of 
pui-ple,  fringed  with  scarlet  and  gold,  and  then  his  court  pros- 
trate themselves  and  offer  royal  homage. 

‘ ‘ When  the  lordly  elei)hant  would  bathe,  an  officer  of  high 
rank  shelters  his  noble  head  with  a great  umbrella  of  ci'imson 
and  gold,  while  others  wave  golden  fans  before  him.  If  he  falls 
ill  the  king’s  own  doctor  prescribes  for  him,  and  the  chief -priests 
pray  daily  for  his  recovery  and  anoint  him  with  consecrated 
oil.  Should  he  die,  all  Siam  is  bereaved.  Only  his  brains  aud 
heart  ai*e  burned.  Tlie  body  shrouded  in  fine  white  cloth, 
ami  laid  on  a bier,  is  floated  down  the  river,  with  many  mourn- 
ful dirges,  aud  Ihi'own  iirto  the  Gulf  of  Siam.  The  haiis  of  its 


208 


SIAM. 


tail  ai’e  preserved  as  sacred  relics.  Indeed,  such  a liair  is  looked 
upon  as  one  of  tlie  most  precious  presents  by  ■which  the  kin» 
can  show  the  bestowment  of  his  favor  upon  any  one.  They  are 
set  in  handles  of  gold  and  precious  stones,  and  one  of  these  tufts 
was  cousidei’ed  by  the  late  king  of  sufficient  importance  to  he 
sent  to  the  Queen,  Victoria  of  England.” 

After  reading  such  descriptions  as  tlie  foregoing,  I was, 
dear  reader,  like  yourself  expecting  to  see  a great  deal. 
There  were  four  ladies  of  us,  and  we  -sdsited  four  very 
homely  animals  in  as  many  miserable  old  stables,  whei’e 
their  keepers  sat  aud  smoked  and  gambled  all  day  long, 
and — the  gray-haired  guide  charged  our  company  seven 
and  a half  cents.  Did  you  ever  hear  of  such  extortion  ? 

Evidently  the  elej)hants  were  not  expecting  company, 
and  were  in  almost  every  state  except  that  “royal  state”  in 
which  they  are  always  kept  according  to  books  which  treat 
of  things  which  are  imd  are  not  in  this  sunny  land.  I do  not 
think  I ever  went  to  see  the  elephants  again — unless,  per- 
haps, it  was  on  some  state  occasion.  I gave  one  of  them  a 
bunch  of  grass  to  eat ; hut,  honestly,  I did  it  only  that  I 
might  say  that  I had  fed  them,  and  not  from  any  desire  to 
prolong  theii’  forlorn  existence.  They  were  tied  with  thongs 
to  stout  posts,  and  stood  there  swaying  their  huge  bodies 
back  and  forth  in  the  most  disconsolate  manner,  and  turning 
up  their  noses  at  them  keepers.  I did  not  see  the  least 
trace  of  scenery  which  adorned  the  walls  of  their  “ stable 
palaces,”  and  was  to  remind  them  of  their  native  jungles. 
But  then,  as  I said  before,  they  were  not  expecting  com- 
pany ; and  perhaps  they  had  taken  all  these  things  down 
and  put  them  away  with  the  golden  canopy,  the  curiously 
■wrought  mosquito-netting,  and  all  the  other  elegant  thiiigs, 
such  as  the  “ diadem  of  beateu  gold  of  perfect  punty,”  the 
“ velvet  cloak  of  purple,  with  crimson  and  gold  fringes.” 
Actually,  I did  7iot  see  a link  of  gold  chain  on  any  one  of 
them,  nor  a ring  on  their  long,  white  tusks.  It  was  a very 


ELEPHANTS. 


209 


bad  day,  I think,  to  \dsit  the  elephants ; hut  then  I liad 
been  in  Siam  nearly  two  years,  and  it  was  my  first  oppor- 
tunity, and  I had  to  embrace  it  or  come  back  to  my  home 
with  the  desire  of  my  heart  unsatisfied. 

I have  heard  from  the  lordly  beasts  through  Bangkok 
letters,  the  latest  dated  July  23,  1883  : 

‘ ‘ There  are  five  white  elephants  now.  I visited  the  stable  of  the 
latest  arrival,  and  found  it  just  the  same  as  other  stables,  dingy 
and  dirty,  and  the  illustrious  captive  was  confined  and  treated, 
to  all  appearances,  in  the  usual  way.  I think  it  is  time  the 
popular  fallacy  about  feeding  the  white  elephant  from  gold 
dishes  and  keeping  him  in  regal  splendor  was  exploded.  Except 
on  state  occasions  it  has  no  foimdation  in  fact.” 

These  ‘"state  occasions”  are  very  few  and  far  between. 
One  of  the  oldest  missionaries  in  Siam  wrote  me  a few 
mouths  ago  that  she  had  at  la.st  actually  seen  the  white 
elephants  in  their  trappings.  They  marched  in  procession 
round  the  king’s  garden  during  the  late  visit  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales,  who  was  invested  with  the  Order  of  the  White 
Elephant  of  Siam  in  1880.  Edwin  Arnold  also  received 
a letter  from  the  King  of  Siam  in  acknowledgment  of  his 
praise  of  Buddhism,  and  had  conferred  upon  him  the 
greatest  decoration,  that  of  the  Order  of  the  White  Ele- 
2ihant.  The  decoration  has  been  proffered  to  several 
Americans  holding  official  positions,  but  declined,  as  none 
of  our  representatives  are  permitted  to  receive  titles  or 
decorations  from  foreign  powers. 

In  July,  1867,  a Siamese  of  high  rank  called  a famous 
oculist  from  Batavia  to  operate  u]Don  his  eyes.  He  hastened 
to  Bangkok  and  was  successful  in  restoring  partial  sight  to 
the  left  eye,  and  for  this  his  grateful  patient  gave  him  ten 
thousand  dollars.  Two  years  later  he  came  again  to  oper- 
ate upon  the  right  eye,  and  was  the  ha^ij^y  reci^jient  of  four 
thousand  dollars  more,  and  had  bestowed  upon  him  the 


210 


SIAM. 


decoration  of  the  Order  of  tlie  "WTiite  Elephant,  as  a sign 
that  he,  also,  was  one  whom  the  king  delighteth  to  honor. 

The  address  to  the  noble  white  elephant  when  first  cap- 
tured and  introduced  to  all  the  comforts  of  civilized  life  in 
the  cajiital  is  very  high-fiown  and  extravagant.  Here  is  a 
free  translation  for  the  benefit  and  amusement  of  those  un- 
fortunate mortals  who  may  never  hear  the  original,  and 
who  would  not  understand  it  if  they  did,  as  they  had  so 
little  nierit  as  to  be  born  in  one  of  those  dark  outside  lands 
in  which  the  “ Light  of  Asia  ” never  shines  : 

“With  holy  reverence  we  now  come  to  worship  the  angels 
who  preside  over  the  destiny  of  all  elephants.  Most  powerful 
angels,  we  entreat  you  to  assemble  now  in  order  that  you  may 
prevent  all  evil  to  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Siam,  and  also  to 
this  magnificent  elephant  which  has  recently  been  brought. 
We  appeal  to  you  all,  whom  we  now  worehip,  and  beg  that  you 
will  use  your  power  m restraining  the  lieai't  of  this  animal  from 
all  anger  and  unliappiness.  We  also  beg  that  you  Avill  mcliue 
this  elephant  to  listen  to  the  words  of  instruction  and  comfort 
that  we  now  deliver. 

“Most  royal  elephant  ! We  beg  that  you  wiU  not  think  too 
much  of  your  father  and  mother,  your  relatives  and  friends. 
Vv'e  beg  that  you  ^vill  not  regret  leaving  yom-  native  mountams 
and  forests,  because  there  ai‘e  evil  spirits  there  that  are  very 
dangerous,  and  udld  beasts  are  there  that  howl,  making  a fear- 
ful noise,  and  there  too  that  bird  Aiassadin'  Avhich  hovers 
round  and  often  picks  up  elephants  and  eats  them  ; and  there 
are  also  bands  of  cruel  hunters  who  kill  elephants  for  their 
ivory.  We  trust  you  will  not  return  to  the  forest,  for  you 
Avould  be  in  constant  danger.  And  that  is  not  all,  in  the  forest 
you  have  no  servants,  and  it  is  very  unpleasant  to  sleep  with 
dust  and  filth  adhering  to  your  body,  and  where  the  flies  and 
mosquitoes  are  very  troublesome. 

‘ ‘ Brave  and  noble  elephant  ! ^Tiy  should  you  wish  to  wan- 
der free  ? The  forest  is  full  of  thorns,  bushes,  and  marehes. 
Wliy  should  you  wish  to  cro.ss  the  valley  and  mountains  ? 
There  you  must  ch'iuk  muddy  water,  and  there  the  stones  will 
cut  yom’  feet. 


ELEPHANTS. 


211 


“ O Father  Elephant  ! We  entreat  you  to  banish  every  wish 
to  stay  in  the  forest.  Look  at  this  delightful  place,  this  heavenly 
city  ! It  abounds  in  wealth  and  ever^dhing  your  eyes  could 
wish  to  see  or  your  heart  desire  to  possess.  It  is  of  yom’  own 
merit  that  you  have  come  to  behold  this  beautiful  city,  to  enjoy 
its  wealth  and  to  bo  the  favorite  guest  of  His  most  exalted 
Majesty  the  King  ! ” 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


THE  YOUNG  AND  OLD  FOLKS  OF  SLAM. 

TTheneter  I think  of  the  young  folks  who  are  no  longer 
children,  and  have  not  yet  reached  the  age  of  men  and 
women,  my  heart  is  saddened.  If  they  are  girls,  they  will  be 
found  carrying  great  heavy  baskets  of  rice  or  sugar  from 
the  country,  or  sitting  in  the  market-stalls  selling  cakes, 
produce,  and  fruit.  Some  make  cigarettes ; others  pound 
up  “ cummin,”  a yellow  powder  the  natives  use  to  rub  on 
the  body  after  the  bath.  A few  girls  make  their  living  by 
sewing  native  jackets  or  Chinese  trousers.  If  they  work 
all  day  they  do  not  average  more  than  sixteen  cents,  and 
many  do  not  make  more  than  four.  If  they  are  orphans 
they  have,  no  doubt,  received  the  usual  inheritance  which 
these  heathen  parents  leave  their  children,  especially  their 
daughters,  and  that  is  a load  of  debt.  Then  they  have  a 
moneyed  master  who  requires  their  serHces  as  slaves,  or 
collects  an  exorbitant  interest  on  the  debt.  This  inherited 
debt  is  a burden  they  accept  almost  hopelessly,  for  not 
more  than  one  in  a hundred  ever  expects  to  get  rid  of  it. 
When  the  girl  marries  her  husband  must  assume  this  debt, 
but  her  name  also  goes  in  the  paper  with  his,  and  it  is  only 
a change  of  masters,  with  often  a harder  and  much  more 
bitter  service.  If  the  husband  gets  tired  of  his  wife  or 
quarrels  with  her,  he  deserts  her,  and  she  has  to  pay  the 
debt  and  support  the  children,  unless  he  takes  them  from 
her.  Sometimes  he  will  even  charge  her  with  the  cost  of 
the  wedding,  and  add  that  to  her  debt.  He  can  sell  her 
and  her  children,  but  she  can  never  sell  him. 

(313) 


THE  YOUNG  FOLKS  OF  SIAM. 


213 


The  young  gii-ls  are  very  fond,  of  jewelry,  and  will  deny 
themselves  needed  food  and  clothes  to  hny  a gold  ring  or  a 
chain  for  their  dusky  bodies.  They  know  absolutely  noth- 
ing of  the  sweet  amenities  of  home,  and  the  thousand  and 
one  refining  influences  of  Christian  civilization.  They 
never  have  rooms  to  themselves,  nor  the  smallest  space 
they  can  call  their  own  in  which  to  store  their  humble 
possessions.  The  whole  family  live  together,  and  huddle 
into  one  common  room.  The  young  folks  are  found  fault 
with,  scolded,  and  even  whipped  in  the  presence  of  all  the 
neighbors,  and  whoever  happens  to  look  or  listen. 

If  they  have  any  deformity,  it  usually  furnishes  them 
with  a name,  as  “ Blind-eye,”  “ Crooked-elbow,”  “ Double- 
toe,” “ Black,”  “ Stubborn,”  “ Hunchback.”  If  their  hair 
curls  or  waves  in  a way  that  we  consider  much  more  beau- 
tiful than  the  straight,  wiry  locks  of  most  Siamese,  they 
are  known  everywhere,  and  remarked  in  every  company  as 
“ Pome  Yik  ” — Curly-head — and  there  is  no  name  that 
])rovokes  them  more. 

They  know  nothing  at  all  of  the  pure  and  pleasant  social 
life  which  is  the  joy  and  blessing  of  young  folks  at  home. 
They  are  never  allowed  to  walk  or  ride  together,  or  spend 
a quiet  evening  alone.  They  are  not  even  allowed  to  talk 
together  without  being  reproached,  unless  older  persons 
are  near  enough  to  hear  all  that  is  said.  Occasionally  a 
pair  of  desperate  lovers  will  break  over  these  barriers  and 
elope ; sometimes  they  escape,  but  oftener  they  are  cap- 
tured and  brought  back  to  be  punished.  The  husband’s 
parents  can  beg  pardon  of  the  bride’s  family,  and  bring 
a peace-offering  and  money.  If  accepted,  they  consult 
together,  and  set  the  young  couple  up  in  housekeeping ; 
if  not,  the  husband  is  driven  off,  and  the  bride  kept  for  a 
better  market. 

Although  the  Siamese  do  not  kill  their  daughters,  still 
the  sons  arc  a privileged  class  all  over  the  kingdom.  The 


214 


SIAM. 


mere  fact  of  being  a boj  is  a peculiar  mark  of  merit. 
They  are  not  expected  to  do  much  of  anything,  and  they 
seldom  disappoint  the  expectation.  After  an  idle,  wilful 
childhood,  they  become  unmanageable,  and  often  before 
they  are  ten  years  old  they  have  been  cursed  and  beaten 
and  driven  away  from  their  homes,  or  they  are  placed  in 
some  monastery,  with  special  directions  that  they  are  to  be 
severely  dealt  with.  Here  they  pretend  to  leai’n  to  read, 
but  they  often  run  off  and  go  wandering  from  one  temple 
to  another,  or  among  their  relatives,  learning  and  practic- 
ing every  vice,  till  they  are  twenty-one  years  old.  As  a 
last  hope  the  father  and  mother  will  receive  them  again, 
and  with  great  ceremony  have  them  enter  the  Buddhist 
priesthood.  The  young  man  therefore  renounces  his 
parents,  his  brothers  and  sisters,  his  wives  if  he  has  any, 
and  all  other  relatives,  his  home,  and  his  former  life.  He 
has  his  head  shaved,  is  bathed  with  consecrated  water,  and 
clothed  in  yellow  robes,  and  he  vainly  imagines  that  he  has 
“put  off  the  old  man,”  and  that  he  is  now  holy.  Every 
one  who  sees  him  is  expected  to  bow  down  and  worship 
him,  and  he  is  very  gracious  indeed  if  he  condescends  to 
receive  a gift  from  their  hand.  Siamese  men  are  all  called 
“ green,”  unripe,  until  after  they  have  donned  the  yellow. 
They  remain  in  the  monastery  an  indefinite  length  of 
time;  then,  if  they  come  out  again  into  the  world,  they 
soon  get  married,  no  matter  how  many  wives  they  may 
have  had  before,  and  then  they  consider  themselves  full- 
fiedged  men,  ready  for  anything  life  in  Siam  holds  for 
them. 

They  have  no  ambition  to  excel  as  workmen,  merchants, 
or  scholars.  There  is  no  world  of  work  or  world  of  letters 
open  to  them.  There  is  no  example  of  good  and  successful 
men  that  they  are  urged  to  follow.  There  is  no  hope  of 
advancement  in  the  Government  unless  they  belong  to  what 
is  called  the  nobility.  There  is  considerable  talent  displayed 


THE  YOUNG  FOLKS  OF  SIAM. 


215 


by  some  who  sketch  pictures  on  the  temple  Avails,  or  for 
“ Punch  and  Judy  ” shows.  But  there  are  no  illustrated 
books  made  by  the  Siamese,  and  they  know  nothing  of  paint- 
ing and  drawing  as  an  art,  so  there  is  no  incentive  to  make 
themselves  proficient  in  so  elegant  and  pleasant  a branch  of 
the  world’s  work. 

A few  Avriters  and  copyists  are  employed  at  every  court- 
room and  at  the  lottery  depots,  but  there  are  thousands  of 
people  who  have  never  Avritten  or  received  a letter  nor  ever 
expect  to.  There  are  hardly  enough  workers  to  keep  up 
the  various  trades,  and  so  all  the  nicer  articles  of  merchan- 
dise are  imported  from  China,  Japan,  Europe,  and  America. 
Even  the  calico  and  muslin  cloths  which  compose  their  dress 
are  usually  manufactured  outside  the  kingdom.  During  a 
late  visit  to  Bangkok,  I saw  some  that  had  been  made  in 
Germany,  perfect  imitations  of  native  designs,  but  of  finer 
texture,  and  more  beautiful  in  color  and  finish.  They  have 
no  skill  in  making  the  simplest  little  things,  such  as  fans, 
umbrellas,  and  shoes.  They  send  raw  material  to  China 
and  buy  it  back  again  after  that  ingenious  people  have 
worked  it  up  so  as  to  derive  a profit  from  the  transaction. 
The  natives  make  a few  earthenware  pots  and  jars,  brittle 
and  unglazed,  but  their  rough  blue  bowls,  from  which  the 
poorest  of  them  eat  their  rice,  and  cups  and  plates  all  come 
from  China  or  other  lands. 

If  you  ask  a woman  hoAV  she  makes  her  living,  she  usual- 
ly has  some  answer  ready,  for  you  seldom  find  one  Avho  has 
nothing  to  do ; but  if  you  ask  a man  the  same  question,  he 
will  often  look  at  yoii  in  blank  amazement,  teU  you  he  lives 
with  his  father,  or  mother,  or  wife,  and  then  perhaps  lie 
will  try  to  recall  the  last  time  he  did  anything,  and  give 
that  as  his  work. 

Dr.  Dean  tells  a story  of  a man  he  hired  to  cut  the  grass 
in  his  yard.  He  came  Arith  an  old  knife,  a basket,  and  an 
umbrella.  After  getting  his  umbrella  advantageously  plant- 


216 


SIAM. 


ed  in  tlie  hole  he  had  dug  for  it,  he  'would  creep  under  it 
and  whack  away  awhile  until  he  reached  the  edges  of  the 
shade,  and  then  with  the  utmost  deliberation  he  would  pull 
up  the  umbrella  and  proceed  to  replant  it,  when  he  would 
whack  away  another  while,  relieving  the  monotony  by  fre- 
quent smokes  in  its  quiet  shelter.  If  the  basket  ever  got 
full  and  he  had  to  go  and  empty  it,  that  was  quite  an  event 
in  his  advancement  over  the  grass-plot.  In  this  truly  primi- 
tive fashion  he  managed  to  spend  several  delightful  days. 
I think  you  can  put  the  Siamese  against  the  world  for  tak- 
ing comfort  out  of  theii’  work.  Who  but  a dweller  in  this 
lotus-land  would  ever  think  of  mowing  under  an  umbrella 
in  the  first  place,  and  who  but  he  could  so  patiently  bear 
with  his  “ moving  tent  ” as  it  slowly  crept  from  place  to 
place.  But  then  ‘he  only  received  thirty  cents  a day  and 
had  to  furnish  his  own  rice  and  tobacco,  and  when  a lazy 
man  is  dependent  on  his  own  exertions  for  tobacco,  you 
must  not  ex]3ect  him  to  spend  his  strength  needlessly ; 
besides,  he  wanted  time  to  enjoy  his  tobacco  as  he  went 
along. 

Many  young  girls  are  sold  to  managers  of  theatres,  where 
they  are  trained  to  lives  of  folly  and  shame.  They  are 
taught  to  dance,  for  as  a Siamese  noble  remarked  once, 
“Foreigners  do  their  own  dancing,  but  we  have  a better 
way,  we  train  our  servants  to  dance  for  us.”  They  also 
learn  to  bend  their  hands  and  arms,  and  twist  their  bodies 
about  in  the  most  approved  fashion  of  Oriental  play-houses. 
They  learn  to  sing  the  native  airs  and  rehearse  long  stories 
of  improbable  adventures  of  little  girls  who  were  once  like 
themselves,  and  afterward  became  the  wives  of  great  and 
powerful  noblemen,  or  even  of  the  princes.  If  a prince  or 
a noble  sees  a smart,  pretty  girl,  and  sends  word  to  her 
friends  that  he  wants  her  for  his  theatre,  they  \isually  have 
to  let  her  go.  He  will  make  them  a present,  or  perhaps 
give  a small  price  for  the  child,  and  then  she  must  serve 


THE  YOUNG  FOLKS  OF  SIAM. 


217 


him  till  slie  is  grown.  By  that  time,  if  he  has  not  taken 
her  into  his  harem,  he  may  sell  her  to  he  the  wife  of  some 
one  else,  and  she  will  train  others  to  play  in  her  stead.  The 
players  are  most  all  children  or  quite  young  folks.  We  try 
to  protect  those  who  have  been  in  our  schools  from  this 
life,  but  we  are  not  able  always  to  do  so,  especially  if  the 
girl  herself  is  fascinated  with  the  pretty  dresses,  the  rings, 
the  bracelets,  the  anklets,  gold  chains,  crowns,  and  music. 

Some  of  the  actresses  are  children  of  prisoners  who  give 
their  little  ones  to  the  nobles  as  the  price  of  their  liberty. 
Others  have  lawsuits,  and,  wishing  to  gain  their  point, 
present  their  children  as  bribes.  Sometimes  the  parents  of 
such  children  are  allowed  to  live  rent  free  in  the  market- 
places, or  they  are  promoted  to  offices  in  the  Government, 
and  even  given  a title.  We  have  an  instance  of  the  lat- 
ter here  in  Petchaburee — a father  who  has  given  three  of 
his  daughters,  one  after  the  other,  as  they  grew  old  enougli, 
to  the  governor  to  be  theatre-girls,  and,  finally,  inmates  of 
his  harem.  What  wonder  that,  to  a heatlien  mind,  it 
seems  a grand  thing  to  so  dispose  of  their  daughters  ; they 
do  not  care  if  their  hearts  are  broken,  their  lives  ruined, 
their  souls  lost.  Very  few  girls  ever  learn  to  read.  The 
natives  say,  “ Why  should  a girl  learn  to  read,  she  can 
never  make  her  living  by  it  P’ 

Tlie  country  girls  have  a hard  life  of  it.  If  it  was  a civ^- 
ilized  land  I might  say  they  work  in  the  fields  like  men, 
but  here  they  do  a great  deal  more  than  most  men ; for 
while  their  brothers  or  husbands  may  be  idling  in  the 
temples,  or  off  gambling  or  sleeping,  they  are  in  the  fields 
ploughing,  though  the  water  may  be  nearly  knee-deep. 
Or  if  the  ploughing  is  finished  they  are  transplanting  rice 
in  the  same  watery  fields.  They  crouch  along  with  bent 
backs  and  their  hands  thrust  into  the  water,  placing  the 
tender  rice-stalks  in  the  soft  mud.  It  is  very,  very  hard 
work,  but  transplanting  rice  is  so  much  better  than  that 
10 


218 


SIAM. 


whicli  is  merely  sown,  tliat  tlaey  do  it  almost  entirely  in 
tliis  province.  The  women  irrigate  the  fields,  watch  the 
rice — for  there  are  no  farm  fences — ^lielp  to  harvest  and 
thresh  it,  and,  in  the  coimtry,  I think  it  is  nearly  all  hulled 
by  the  women.  In  the  towns  some  men  helj),  especially 
Chinamen  ; and  in  Bangkok  and  Patriew  there  ai’e  several 
steam  mills  which  hull  the  rice  for  transportation. 

In  making  pahn  sugar  the  men  ehmb  the  trees  and  bring 
down  the  bamboo  joints  full  of  sweet  sap  to  the  foot  of 
the  ladder,  but  the  women  have  to  take  it  from  there  to 
the  boilers  and  reduce  it  to  sugar.  They  make  it  into 
clikes,  or  pour  it  into  earthen  pots,  and  then  carry  it  to  mar- 
ket and  trade  for  what  is  needed. 

Isearly  all  the  country  people  learn  to  spin  and  weave 
different  kinds  of  coarse  cotton  cloths,  and,  woman-like, 
the  largest  and  handsomest  ones  they  always  give  to  the 
men,  although  they  know  the  very  man  who  receives  it 
considers  himself  so  much  better  than  she,  that  he  will 
hardly  touch  her  garments  even  with  his  foot. 

Notwithstanding  her  degradation  and  the  scorn  and  re- 
proach she  has  to  bear,  here,  as  everj-where,  woman  has  a 
mighty  influence.  How  true  it  is  that  “ woman  keeps  the 
idol  on  its  pedestal,”  and  it  is  the  mother  who  trains  her 
children  to  idolatry.  Therefore  “the  real  conversion  of 
one  heathen  woman  will  do  more  toward  the  advancement 
of  Christianity  than  that  of  ten  men,”  and  yet  it  is  more 
difficult  to  win  the  women  to  accept  the  truth  than  the 
men,  not  because  they  are  less  religious,  but  more  so,  and 
are  more  wedded  to  Buddhism.  But  let  the  true  Gospel 
rays  penetrate  her  darkened  mind  and  heart,  and  to  her  it 
is  joyful  news  indeed,  that  she,  a woman,  can  go  to  heaven  ; 
that  God  thinks  about  her,  cares  for  her,  loves  her,  and 
will  receive  her  into  His  upper  kingdom  with  equal  delight 
as  shown  to  His  sons  ! 


OLD  FOLKS  IN  SIAM. 


219 


OLD  FOLKS  IN  SIAM.  ' 

Of  course  there  are  some  like  the  wicked  described  by- 
Asaph  in  the  TSd  psalm,  “ Pi’ide  compasseth  them  about 
as  a chain  ; violence  covereth  them  as  a garment.  Their 
eyes  stand  out  with  fatness ; they  have  more  than  heart 
could  wish.  They  are  corrupt,  and  speak  wickedly  con- 
cerning oppression.”  It  is  not  of  the  rich  old  heathen  who 
live  in  palaces  and  whose  houses  are  full  of  plenty ; who 
seem  to  “ have  no  bands  in  their  death,”  and  who  die  think- 
ing they  leave  this  world  because  they  have  made  so  much 
merit  it  is  no  longer  a fit  place  to  be  honored  by  their 
presence,  but  of  the  masses  that  I now  speak. 

When  after  a life  of  dissipation  old  age  comes  on,  and 
the  poor  man  finds  himself  homeless,  penniless,  and  alone, 
his  usual  resort  is  the  Buddhist  monastery.  If  he  can  find 
any  who  are  willing  to  pay  his  debts,  that  they  may  have 
a share  in  liis  supposed  merit,  he  enters  as  a priest;  if 
not,  he  slips  in  and  hangs  round  as  a beggar  or  servant 
till  death  ends  his  earthly  career.  He  spends  most  of  his 
time  in  deploring  his  lack  of  merit,  complaining  of  his  dis- 
eases, troubles,  and  ills,  and  condemning  everybody  and 
everything  but  himself  for  his  wretched  condition.  He  is 
sure,  too,  that  the  world  is  growing  worse,  and  that  the 
people  are  much  more  wicked  than  in  his  young  days.  He 
has  a great  deal  of  good  advice  to  give  to  others  which  he 
never  followed  himself,  especially  if  he  is  a ch’unkard  or 
opium-smoker.  He  swears  fearfully,  and  the  older  he  grows 
the  more  bigoted  and  superstitious  he  becomes. 

You  can  hardly  imagine  a more  unlovely  sight  than  some 
of  them  present,  and  the  old  women  are  no  better.  As  for 
both,  in  old  age  they  usually  shave  the  head  quite  bare,  and 
the  face,  neck,  and  indeed  the  whole  body  is  full  of  deep 
ruts  and  wrinkles,  and  often  covered  with  blotches  of  white 
freckles,  a sort  of  dry  leprosy  common  to  the  Siamese. 


220 


SIAM. 


Their  toothless  mouths  are  like  great  black  holes  full  of 
red  betel,  and  the  men  smoke  so  much  tobacco  that  you 
can  smell  them  before  they  come  in  sight.  I have  seen 
great  calloused  corns  on  their  feet  and  ankles,  and  some- 
times on  their  elbows,  as  large  as  hickory-nuts.  Their 
hands  and  feet  are  hard  and  horny,  and  often  cracked  open 
so  that  they  bleed,  or  are  covered  with  running  sores. 

The  old  women  may  be  widows  indeed,  or  then-  hus- 
bands may  have  left  them  to  enter  the  priesthood,  or  de- 
serted them  for  younger  wives.  In  either  case  the  old 
mother  is  expected  to  take  care  of  her  grandchildren,  and 
her  last  days  are  made  miserable  by  the  ingratitude  of  the 
sons  and  daughters  she  never  taught  to  love  and  obey  her. 
She  tries  to  make  merit  by  fasting,  or  by  feeding  priests 
and  dogs,  going  to  the  temple  services,  hndng  her  flowers 
and  incense  before  the  idol,  and  listening  to  long  sermons, 
not  one  word  of  which  she  can  understand.  Her  heart  is 
all  the  time  full  of  hopes  and  fears.  She  has  no  other  ex- 
pectation than  that  of  going  to  hell  when  she  dies;  but  still 
she  hopes,  after  ages  of  suffering,  to  be  permitted  to  be  re- 
born as  a man,  and  yet  she  is  all  the  time  afraid  that  she 
has  not  made  merit  enough  for  that  glorious  destiny. 

Lest  we  should  sometimes  seem  to  exaggerate  the  differ- 
ence between  the  condition  of  women  in  our  country  and 
that  of  various  heathen  lands,  we  need  only  quote  the  flg- 
ures  given  by  various  heathen  teachers  and  liters.  A 
Chinese  author,  in  preparing  a method  of  keeping  account 
of  merits  and  demerits  between  the  human  soul  and  the 
powers  above,  sets  down  100  demerit  marks  for  lewd  con- 
duct in  a man,  and  50,000  marks  for  the  same  offence  in  a 
woman.  The  Buddhist  teachers  maintain  that  the  sins  of 
one  woman  are  equal  to  the  sins  of  3,000  of  the  worst  men 
that  ever  lived.  How  can  we  exaggerate  the  atrocious 
cruelty  of  such  teachings  ? Poor,  poor  soiils ! 

They  are  very  quarrelsome,  too;  and  they  become  so 


OLD  FOLKS  IN  SIAM. 


221 


angry  they  can  no  longer  scold,  so  they  just  yell  at  each 
other.  When  things  come  to  such  a pass,  the  mother  ■svill 
often  send  her  little  children  to  “help  grandmother  swear”; 
and  there  the  little  black  sinners  stand  in  a row,  “ swearing 
like  troopers,”  helping  the  old  hags,  who  are  so  overcome 
with  rage  that  all  they  can  do  is  to  mumble  and  yell,  and 
shake  their  long,  bony  arms  in  impotent  wi'ath.  I never 
heard  such  commotions  anywhere  else  as  they  get  up  some- 
times in  the  native  villages,  or  right  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  for  they  have  no  shame  and  care  not  who  hears  their 
quarrel.  One  good  thing  about  them  is  that  the  men  usu- 
ally keep  quiet,  and  let  the  women  scold  and  swear  it  out 
themselv^es.  They  seldom  come  to  blows.  But  we  knew 
a woman  who  became  so  fiery  hot  with  anger  one  day  that 
she  bit  a piece  right  out  of  a woman’s  ear,  ring  and  all. 
The  one  who  was  bitten  ran  to  the  governor  to  complain 
and  have  the  biter  arrested,  while  the  criminal  dashed  down 
to  the  mission  compoxmd  and  asked  to  be  “ baptized  right 
away.”  She  thought  if  she  joined  the  church  the  officers 
would  not  arrest  nor  fine  her.  But  she  was  not  the  kind  of 
applicant  for  baptism  missionaries  are  disposed  to  receive, 
and  she  turned  away  disappointed.  One  day  in  teaching 
the  women  they  were  asked,  “ Why  do  you  quarrel  so 
much?”  One  of  them  made  this  honest  reply,  “Before  I 
was  converted  I just  liked  to  quarrel ! ” I suppose  that  is 
the  reason  so  many  still  keep  it  up. 

!Many  old  women  are  reduced  to  abject  slavery,  and 
they  have  to  serve  their  masters  to  the  utmost  of  their 
strength,  by  working  in  the  fields,  by  grinding  at  the  mill, 
or  going  out  to  beg,  and  to  sell  fruits  and  sweetmeats. 
These  old  slaves  have  no  jackets,  and  only  an  old  cloth 
about  their  loins,  and  another  over  their  shoulders  that 
serves  to  shelter  their  bald  heads  from  the  sun  by  day,  or 
they  may  make  a little  awning  of  it  by  the  sunny  roadside 
where  they  sit  and  sell  their  wares.  If  they  do  not  sell 


222 


SIAM. 


out,  or  come  liome  witli  pennies  lacking,  tliey  ■will  be  cursed 
at  least  if  not  beaten.  Others  die  in  chains,  or  shut  up  in 
the  dungeons  of  Bangkok,  and  relatives,  if  they  have  any 
left,  are  glad  to  hear  of  their  death.  These  old  ■women 
■whose  relimon  has  done  nothing:  for  their  welfare  in  this 
life,  and  which  promises  absolutely  nothing  for  them,  as 
women,  in  the  future,  are  still  the  most  zealous  adherents 
of  Buddhism  in  the  land.  If  the  women  of  Siam  would 
to-day  cease  to  believe  in  and  practice  Buddhism  it  would 
soon  drop  from  its  already  tottering  throne,  and  woman 
could  at  once  assume  and  maintain  a higher  and  nobler  po- 
sition. These  old  folks  resent  our  teachings  because  we 
are  younger  than  they,  and  they  are  too  old  to  see  to  read 
our  books.  Gray  hairs  are  a crown  of  glory  only  when 
found  in  the  way  of  righteousness.  Let  us  pray,  therefore, 
that  the  next  generation  may  walk  in  the  path  of  Life,  and 
be  cro^wned  with  the  light  and  glory  of  the  Gospel  of 
Christ ! 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


CUEIOTJS  THINGS. 

The  renowned  Siamese  twins  were  the  most  wonderful 
curiosities  ever  found  in  this  land.  Tliey  were  born  at 
Ma  Klong,  a town  of  twelve  thousand  iidiabitants  on  a 
river  of  the  same  name.  They  were  early  sold  by  their 
relatives,  and  taken  to  Europe  and  America  for  exhibition. 
In  the  latter  country  they  were  converted,  united  with  the 
Baptist  Church,  and  were  married  to  two  sisters.  The 
twins  died  several  years  ago,  but  their  families  still  live  in 
the  United  States.  By  some  strange  freak  of  nature,  their 
bodies  were  united  by  a band  of  flesh  which  reached  from 
the  right  side  of  one  to  the  left  side  of  the  other,  and  in 
this  abnormal  condition  they  lived  their  lives  and  died 
together.  After  the  first  one  died,  the  other  one’s  life 
might  perhaps  have  been  spared,  but  he  would  never  con- 
sent to  have  his  brother’s  body  cut  from  his  own,  and  so 
death  was  the  inevitable  consequence. 

A new  sensation  was  created  some  time  since  in  London, 
of  which  I have  seen  the  following  newspaper  accounts : 

“the  missing  link. 

“There  is  now  on  exhibition  at  the  Westminster  Aquarium  a 
hairy  female  child,  who  is  introduced  to  the  public  as  a talldn^ 
monkey,  and  the  nearest  approach  to  the  ‘ missing  link’  yet  dis- 
covered. She  is  not,  in  the  ordinary  acceptation  of  the  word,  a 
monster,  hut  a very  bright-looking,  intelligent  gud  of  alxjut 
seven  years  of  age.  She  was  caught,  according  to  the  account 
given  of  her  by  Mr.  Farini,  in  the  forest  near  Laos,  and  brought 
to  England  by  ilr.  Carl  Bock,  who,  since  the  expedition  de- 

(223) 


224 


SIAM. 


scribed  by  bim  in  ‘ The  Head-Hunters  of  Borneo,’  has  been  ex- 
plormg  Siam  and  the  %vilder  states  to  the  northeast.  Hearinj' 
in  vai'ious  quartere  of  the  existence  of  a race  of  hairy,  tailed 
men,  similar  in  appearance  to  a family  kept  at  the  Court  of 
Mandalay,  he  offered  a reward  for  the  capture  of  a specimen. 
A man  was  caught,  and  with  him  the  child  now  exhibited,  and 
a woman  of  similar  appeamnce  then  allowed  herself  to  be  taken. 
Wlien  the  little  one  attempted  to  wander,  the  parents  recalled 
her  wdth  a plaintive  cry,  ‘ Kra-o,’  and  the  call  has  been  adopted 
as  her  name. 

‘ ‘ The  father  died  at  Laos  of  cholera,  and  the  king  refused  to 
let  the  mother  go,  but  Mi-.  Bock  succeeded  in  getting  the  child 
to  Bangkok,  and  obtained  permission  from  the  King  of  Siam  to 
bring  her  to  this  country. 

‘ ‘ The  eyes  of  the  child  are  large,  dark,  and  lustrous ; the 
nose  flattened,  the  nosti-Hs  scarcely  showing ; the  cheeks  fat  and 
pouch-like ; the  lower  lip  only  rather  thicker  than  is  usual  in 
Europeans ; but  the  chief  peculiarity  apiiarent  is  the  strong  and 
abundant  hair.  On  the  head  it  is  black,  thick,  and  sti-aight, 
and  grows  over  the  forehead  dovm  to  the  heavy  eyebrows,  and  is 
continued  in  whisker-like  locks  down  the  cheeks.  The  rest  of 
the  face  is  covered  with  a fine,  dark,  downy  hah-,  and  the 
shoulders  and  arms  have  a covering  of  hair  from  an  mch  to  an 
mch  and  a half  long.  There  is,  it  is  said,  a slight  lengthening 
of  the  lower  vertebrae,  suggestive  of  a caudal  protuberance,  and 
there  are  points  in  the  muscular  conformation  and  otherwise 
which  will  provoke  discussion.  Ki-ao  has  already  picked  up  a 
few  words  of  Enghsh.” 

And  again ; 

“ Mr.  A.  H.  Keane  has  described  Krao,  a seven-year-old  female 
child,  now  at  the  London  Royal  Aquarium,  who  is  sensationally 
claimed  by  her  exhibitors  to  be  the  long-sought  ‘missing  link’ 
between  man  and  the  high  apes.  Ki-ao  is  fairly  intelligent,  and 
her  short  stay  among  civilized  people  has  already  caused  her  to 
dislike  her  old  savage  associates.  She  has  several  phy.sical 
peculiarities,  the  chief  of  which  are  a forehead  covered  with 
thick,  black  hair  down  to  the  hmshy  eyebrows ; a gi-owth  of  hair 
about  a quarter  of  an  inch  long  over  her  body,  prehensile  feet, 
and  remarkably  flexible  hands.  Mr.  Keane  finds,  however,  the 
point  of  chief  interest  to  be  Ki-ao’s  history,  which  seems  to 


CURIOUS  THINGS. 


225 


indicate  tlie  existence  of  a hairy  race  of  people  in  a part  of 
India  now  chiefly  occupied  by  almost  hairless  Mangoloid 
peoples.  Krao  and  her  parents— also  hairy  people — wei-e  found 
last  year  by  Mr.  Carl  Bock,  and  another  hairy  family,  which 
came  from  the  same  region,  is  said  to  have  been  known.” 

Triien  I read  these  articles  my  interest  was  greatly 
excited,  because  I happened  to  know  something  of  that 
little  girl  myself,  and  my  knowledge  was  so  contrary  to 
some  of  the  statements,  that  to  refresh  my  memory  I 
turned  to  my  old  journal,  and  found  under  date  of  April 
IG,  1881 : 

“ The  other  day  I saw  a hairy  child — a little  girl  about  five 
years  old.  She  had  beautiful  eyes,  rather  an  intelligent  face, 
cmdd  talk  Siamese,  and  seemed  like  other  children,  except  that 
her  whole  body  was  covered  with  hah  as  black  as  coal.  The 
usual  hair  of  the  head  grew  clear  down  and  met  her  eyebrows, 
which  were  very  heavy,  and  then  went  down  the  sides  of  her 
face,  around  her  ears,  and  under  her  chin.  And  she  had  shoi-t 
hairs  all  about  the  roots  of  her  nose,  and  her  body  was  covered 
with  it,  the  heaviest,  longest  coat  being  on  her  shoulders,  arms, 
and  legs.  I asked  her : ‘ Whose  child  ai*e  you  ? ’ ‘ Luke  cong 

vm,' — ‘ I am  my  mother’s  child,’  said  she. 

“A  Chinaman  hatl  her  on  exhibition,  and  we  paid  him  eight 
cents  for  the  sight,  and  gave  the  child  a mango.  She  clasped 
her  hands  at  once,  and  bowed  as  the  Siamese  all  do.  The  school 
children  say  she  belongs  to  the  tribe  of  Esau,  but  that  she  docs 
not  know  it,  because  she  never  heard  the  old  Bible  stoiy.  Poor 
little  thing!  she  may  become  hideous  as  she  gi’ows  up.” 

I remember  well  that  her  name  wa.s  Krao,  which  in 
Siamese  means  hairy ; and  if  I should  happen  to  see  the 
child  when  I go  to  London,  I have  no  doubt  I will  recog- 
nize her.  She  could  talk  Siamese  as  naturally  and  dis- 
tinctly as  any  of  the  children  who  crowded  round  to  look 
at  her.  As  for  her  “ prehensile  feet  and  remarkably  flex- 
ible hands,”  that  is  characteristic  of  all  the  Siamese.  From 
their  very  birth  their  mothers  and  nurses  rub  and  bend  the 
10* 


226 


S/AM. 


joints  to  make  them  snpple,  and  the  little  cliildren  in  tlie 
native  theatres  are  trained  to  snch  perfection  tliat  their 
masters  boast  to  one  another  that  their  tronpe  is  the  most 
flexible.  In  their  pantomime  and  genuflexions  each  actress 
tries  to  outdo  the  others,  by  bending  and  twisting  her 
hands,  and  almost  unjointing  her  body,  to  gain  the  praise 
of  her  master  and  the  applause  of  the  audience.  And  who 
that  has  ever  been  in  Siam  can  forget  the  awkward  and 
unnatural  projection  of  the  elbow  which  all  young  ladies 
afiect  ? 

Ao;ain  and  again  have  I seen  the  children  in  the  mission- 
schools  sitting  flat  on  the  floor  holding  their  sewing  with 
their  toes,  while  their  little  fingers  were  all  doubled  up  in 
their  strenuous  effort  to  push  the  needle  tlmough  the  stiff 
cloth ; and  when  seated  on  the  benches,  if  a pencil  or  nut 
falls  to  the  floor,  they  immediately  pick  it  up  with  their 
toes.  Even  carpenters  hold  a stick  with  their  toes  while 
they  fashion  it  to  the  desired  shape  with  the  tools  in  their 
hands.  And  why  not  ? They  are  always  barefoot,  and  it 
is  very  convenient  sometimes  when  hands  are  full  to  have 
another  available  member. 

As  to  the  suggestion  of  a tail,  by  “ a slight  lengthening  of 
the  lower  vertebrae,”  it  is  no  more  to  be  believed  than  the 
whole  tale.  If  a reward  was  offered  for  her  capture  how 
does  it  happen  that  she  was  exhibited  in  Petchaburee 
months  before  she  was  taken  to  England  ? It  was  heads 
he  was  after  in  Borneo,  and  tails  in  Siam.  But  if  he  is  the 
authority  for  the  newspaper  articles  I have  quoted,  I fear 
he  re-cou?ited  more  than  he  found. 

Ilere  is  another  traveller’s  story  : 

“ In  Northern  Siam  there  are  cui'ious  birds,  which  when  their 
nest  is  finished,  and  the  eggs  duly  laid,  it  is  the  male  bird  who 
sets  himself  upon  them,  and  the  female  brings  mud  and  straw, 
and  plasters  him  in.  Only  liis  head  is  visible,  and  she  feeds  him 
and  hovers  near  to  keep  him  company  until  the  chu’i)  of  the 


CURIOUS  THINGS. 


227 


little  birds  warns  her  it  is  time  to  break  up  the  mud  wall  and  let 
her  lord  go  free.” 

There  are  little  black  birds  with  golden  bills  that  can  be 
taught  to  talk,  and  laugh,  and  sing.  The  love-birds  are 
very  beautiful,  and  sit  on  the  same  branch,  nodding  and 
winking  at  each  other  like  doves. 

We  have  some  curious  and  interesting  leaf  insects  and 
stick-bugs,  that  look  so  natural  one  can  hardly  believe  they 
are  animated  until  they  are  seen  to  move.  The  walking- 
fish,  too,  are  wonderful  creatures.  I have  seen  them  move 
over  the  mud-banks  at  a rapid  rate,  leaving  a pretty  track 
behind  them,  something  like  herring-bone  embroidery,  and 
I have  frequently  noticed  little  black  crabs  clinging  to 
branches,  six  to  eight  feet  from  the  ground.  King-crabs 
are  also  very  plentiful,  that  queer  half-moon  species,  of 
which  the  male  furnishes  a striking  example  of  those  des- 
perately lazy  liusbands  who  make  their  wives  support  them. 

Down  along  the  coast  at  Aughin  and  Kok  Sechang,  are 
found  sea-horses,  the  cunning  little  hippocampus.,  a bony 
pipe-fish  six  or  seven  inches  long,  the  head  of  which  is  very 
like  that  of  a miniature  horse.  All  honor  to  the  brave 
little  fellows,  for  unlike  those  miserable  king-crabs,  among 
the  sea-horses  the  father  looks  after  the  young,  as  a good 
husband  should,  wdth  real  paternal  solicitude.  There  is 
also  the  durien-fish,  round  as  a puff-ball  and  covered  with 
sharp,  prickly  spines. 

There  is  in  Siam  a very  large  lizard  called  the  he-ah,  or 
tahnet,  having  a split  tongue.  It  is  usually  found  on  land, 
but  it  can  live  in  the  water,  and  can  swim  almost  like  a 
crocodile.  The  largest  one  I ever  saw  was  soine  six  or 
seven  feet  long,  and  was  shot  in  a tree,  and  dragged  down, 
when  the  natives  at  once  begged  for  its  gall  to  make  medi- 
cine. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


SIAM  S CENTESmAL  EXPOSITION. 

April  26,  1882,  or  as  the  Siamese  count  time,  “sixth 
lunation,  ninth  of  the  waxing  moon,  year  of  the  horse, 
fourth  of  the  decade,  fifteenth  of  the  present  reign,  1211 
Siamese  civil  era,”  was  the  time  designated  for  the  opening 
of  the  Exposition  in  honor  of  the  celebration  of  the  one 
hundredth  year  since  the  establishment  of  the  city  of  Bang 
kok  as  the  capital  of  Siam.  This  set  time  was  preceded 
by  three  days  and  four  nights  of  Buddhist  religious  cere 
monies  and  fireworks,  mingled  with  processions  and  dis 
plays  of  royal  and  military  power.  And  the  king  himself 
laid  the  corner-stone  of  the  centennial  memorial  monument, 
and  of  the  new  “ Palace  of  Justice.” 

The  famous  royal  temple  of  the  Emerald  Idol,  after  be- 
ing thoroughly  repaired,  was  also  rededicated,  and  the 
bronze  statues  of  the  four  past  sovereigns  of  the  present 
dynasty  worshipped  by  the  king  and  his  people.  The  first 
of  these  kings  has  left  a name  long  to  be  remembered,  as 
witness  the  following : “ Prabaht  Somdetch  Boroma  Bahch- 
ahteraht  Bamateebaudee  Praputtayautfah  Chulaloke.” 

I went  to  Bangkok  and  visited  the  Exposition  in  May. 
It  was  certainly  very  good  for  Siam,  and  we  hope  it  will 
lift  the  nation  up  a step  or  two.  The  missionary  ladies  dis- 
tributed gospels  and  tracts,  and  all  seemed  glad  to  get  them. 
I was  very  sorry  that  we  had  no  Bible  department  there. 
One  of  the  ladies  was  the  very  first  one  to  go  in  after  the 
doors  were  opened,  and  the  king  said  wlien  he  heard  of  it, 
“ There,  the  Siamese  always  let  the  foreigners  get  ahead  of 
(228) 


SIAM’S  CENTENNIAL  EXPOSITION. 


229 


tliem!”  He  intended  to  secure  a pliotograph  of  the  first 
person  wlio  entered  the  gate,  hut  we  are  sure  he  did  not 
Avant  it  to  be  a foreigner. 

The  grandest  display  was  in  the  queen’s  rooms,  of  royal 
jewels,  medals,  gold  and  silver  plate,  and  goodly  robes  and 
garments  of  silk  and  satin  and  crape.  But  the  nicest  and 
daintiest  work  on  nearly  everything  seems  to  have  been 
done  by  Chinese  rather  than  the  natives  of  this  king- 
dom. I saw  in  the  Laos  room  some  very  cixrious  and  beau- 
tiful things  Avhich  appeared  to  be  entirely  native.  But 
Laos  is  an  inland  kingdom  so  far  removed  from  outside  in- 
fluences that  strangers  have  had  little  effect  upon  its  man- 
ufactures. 

There  was  a noticeable  absence  of  thought  and  inventive 
skill  in  the  construction  of  the  tools  and  implements  dis- 
played. There  was  an  air  of  rude  barbarity  connected  with 
the  whole  which  would  not  let  you  for  a moment  forget 
that  you  were  still  in  Siam,  and  yet  the  Exposition  is  a sign 
of  better  days. 

The  most  homelike  thing  I saw  was  a little  native  who 
was  selling  fans.  He  asked  ninety  cents  for  one ; and  when 
I shoAA'ed  him  mine,  jixst  like  it,  that  I only  jxaid  fifteen  for, 
he  said,  “Where  did  you  get  it?”  I told  him,  “Down  the 
river  at  a floating  house.”  “ Oh  ! ” said  he  ; “ this  is  in 
the  Exposition,  and  it  only  comes  once  in  one  hundred 
years ! ” 

It  is  worth  much  to  have  seen  the  royal  crown-jewels, 
and  the  gems  and  gold  and  silver-plate  belonging  to  the 
king  and  nobles,  and  the  great  cases  filled  Avith  royal  ap- 
parel. The  queen  had  some  A’ery  pretty  things  in  her 
rooms,  but  I don’t  suppose  she  did  much  of  the  Avork  her- 
self. lu  one  of  the  rooms  there  were  curtains  at  the  door- 
ways, and  hanging-baskets  and  various  designs,  all  made  of 
natural  flowers.  This  room  Avas  furnished  AA’ith  royal  chairs 
and  sofas,  gilt  and  covered  AA'ith  yelloAV  satin.  On  the  AA'alls 


230 


SIAM. 


vrere  portraits  of  tlie  king,  the  former  and  the  present 
queen,  and  the  little  heir-apparent  'noth  his  black,  chubby 
face,  and  his  clothes  a great  deal  too  large  for  him.  I en- 
joyed looking  at  the  court  dresses,  embroidered  in  gold 
thread.  All  through  the  royal  apartments  there  were  effi- 
gies of  pages,  soldiers,  courtiers,  and  ladies  dressed  in  the 
styles  of  long  ago — except  that,  almost  without  exception, 
they  wore  shoes  and  stockings,  and  they  are  a very  recent 
addition  to  the  Siamese  costume. 

The  Girls’  School  of  Bangkok  had  two  cases  in  the 
queen’s  room  tilled  with  fancy-work,  such  as  crochet,  lace, 
mats  and  tidies,  darnet-work  and  applique,  zephyr  afghaus, 
rugs,  and  pin-cushions.  I also  saw  the  silk  quilt  that  was 
presented  to  the  king  in  Mrs.  House’s  time  by  this  school, 
hanging  over  one  of  the  doorways  among  the  royal  pos- 
sessions. 

Dr.  McFarland,  in  the  interest  of  education  and  the 
King’s  School,  had  a room  filled  with  all  sorts  of  school- 
books, and  appliances,  specimens  of  the  students’  penman- 
ship and  translations,  both  in  English  and  Siamese,  could 
be  seen.  There  were  also  some  well-preserved  specimens 
of  native  butterflies  and  beetles,  and  several  beautiful  mot- 
toes and  banners. 

The  natural  products  made  a good  display— the  rices, 
fruits,  and  flowers — for  Siam  is  wonderfully  productive ; 
but  these  things  have  never  been  improved  by  cultivation, 
and  the  vegetables  especially  are  very  small  and  inferior  to 
the  same  kinds  grown  in  America.  Their  largest  onions  are 
the  size  of  a partridge-egg,  and  cabbages  weighing  three  or 
four  pounds  to  the  head  would  be  real  curiosities,  and  their 
melons  hardly  deserve  to  be  eaten,  they  are  so  tasteless. 

The  workmen’s  department  was  indifferent  enough,  fully 
proving  that  this  nation  has  been  standing  still  for  centuries. 
Their  ploughs  are  nothing  but  crooked  sticks  with  an  iron 
point,  and  knives  so  very  blunt  and  rude  that  if  I should 


SIAM’S  CENTENNIAL  EXPOSITION. 


231 


sketch  one  I would  have  to  write  beneath  it,  “ This  is  a 
knife,”  or  you  would  never  imagine  what  it  was  intended 
for. 

The  Siamese  Exposition  was  remarkable  for  the  absence 
of  elephants.  There  was  not  one  on  exliibition.  I cannot 
account  for  it.  Perhaps  the  white  specimens  were  consid- 
ered too  sacred  for  all  the  vulgar  crowd  to  gaze  upon,  and 
the  others  are  too  common  to  show.  There  were  tigers, 
bears,  wildcats,  foxes,  mink,  beavers,  hedgehogs,  porcu- 
pines, squirrels,  rabbits,  guinea-pigs,  deer,  and  monkeys, 
and  apes  of  many  kinds.  There  was  also  a great  variety  of 
birds,  poultry,  and  fishes.  In  the  fish-room  there  wei-e 
many  beautiful  and  cuidous  specimens,  both  living  and 
dead  ; but  the  dead  ones  were  preserved  with  carbolic  oil, 
which  made  the  place  so  offensive  that  visitors  had  to  hurry 
through  without  examining  anything  closely.  Here  were 
several  living  alligators,  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches 
long,  big-mouthed  and  ugly  even  in  their  infancy. 

I cannot  tell  of  all  the  strange  and  curious  things,  the 
beautiful  and  costly : the  royal  saddles  and  bridles,  inlaid 
with  gold  and  glittering  with  jewels ; tlie  golden  throne  of 
the  old  king ; the  old-time  armor,  made  of  bamboo  and 
stuffed  with  cotton ; the  old  flags  and  banners  taken  in 
almost  forgotten  wars  ; the  royal  bedstead  ; the  swords  and 
firearms ; the  musical  instruments  ; the  curious  coins,  from 
irregular  chunks  of  gold  and  silver,  brass,  copper,  iron,  and 
lead,  down  to  sea-shells  (the  cowries),  used  as  money  in 
Siam  as  late  as  1862,  and  then  np  to  the  nicest  and  newest 
flat,  round  coins  from  the  royal  mint,  stamped  with  the 
king’s  portrait  and  the  centennial  Siamese  date  1244. 

I must  not  forget  to  mention  the  ores  and  woods,  the 
ferns  and  orchids ; the  perfumes,  spices,  and  herbs ; the 
elephant  riisks  and  trappings  ; the  fish-nets  and  tackle  ; the 
bamboo  work ; the  models  of  houses,  temples,  and  sacred 
shrines,  and  boats,  from  the  little  skiff,  which  the  poorest 


232 


S/AM. 


may  own,  to  the  long,  graceful  boats  used  only  by  the  king 
in  his  river  processions  ; the  robes  and  trapjjings  for  Buddh- 
ist priests,  their  bowls  and  rice-pots ; and  the  fireworks, 
paper  and  beeswax  flowers,  incense-sticks  and  tapers  for 
otferings  and  cremations. 

Take  it  all  in  all,  it  was  a wonderful  thing  for  Siam. 
The  king  ordered  the  Exposition  to  be  kept  open  one  hun- 
dred days,  and  at  the  close  the  goods  were  returned  to  their 
owners,  or  sold  at  auction.  There  were  entertainments 
every  day  and  night,  and  fireworks  of  the  most  dazzling 
description.  There  were  refreshment  halls  where  one  could 
get  both  foreign  and  native  food,  and  there  were  boats  and 
carriages  and  sedan  chairs  for  the  visitors.  You  could  talk 
through  the  telephone  with  the  old  capital,  Ayuthia,  or  send 
a telegram  down  the  river  to  Paknam.  The  buildings,  of 
course,  were  but  temporary,  made  of  wood  and  bamboo,  but 
they  were  well  planned,  light  and  airy,  and  being  painted 
and  ornamented  in  the  highest  style  of  Siamese  art,  they 
jDresented  a fine  appearance. 

We  are  glad  that  Siam  had  a Centennial  Exposition,  aud 
that  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  see  it  in  all  its  glory,  and  if 
she  ever  has  another  we  hope  it  will  be  incomparable. 


CHAPTEE  XXYI. 


PETCHAJBTJKEE. 

The  city  of  Pet-eba-bu-ree  is  about  niuety  miles  from 
Bangkok  now.  It  used  to  be  much  farther  when  tbe  only 
way  to  reach  it  was  by  crossing  the  Gulf  of  Siam,  and 
then  ascending  tbe  Petcbaburee  Kiver  from  tbe  sea.  But 
now  several  long,  straight  canals  have  been  cut,  making  a 
shorter  and  closer  connection  with  the  waterways  of  tbe 
country  and  rendering  us  independent  of  wind  and  wave. 

We  always  travel  in  house-boats,  which  are  very  comfort- 
able and  make  good  time  with  four  or  five  stout  natives  as 
rowers.  Until  you  get  fairly  out  of  Bangkok  tbe  progress 
is  slow,  for  tbe  principal  canals  are  often  so  filled  with 
native  boats  coming  and  going  that  they  jostle  and  rub  and 
thump  each  other,  and  sometimes  come  to  a deadlock. 
But  as  you  leave  the  crowd  and  tbe  tumult  behind  you  tbe 
boatmen  with  long,  steady  strokes  bear  you  quietly  and 
swiftly  along.  Xearly  all  Siamese  boatmen  stand  at  their 
oars.  By  rowing  day  and  night,  with  only  short  stops  for 
rest  and  meals,  tiie  journey  from  Bangkok  to  Petcbaburee 
has  been  accompbsbed  in  thirty-six  hours,  perhaps  less.  It 
is  better,  however,  to  allow  yourself  fully  forty-eight  or 
more,  that  you  may  have  good-natm’ed  boatmen  all  the  way, 
and  time  to  enjoy  tbe  lovely  scenery  of  this  delightful 
land. 

On  our  way  we  pass  through  gardens  of  marvellous  ex- 
tent, full  of  all  tropical  trees,  spices,  and  flowers.  There 
are  great  plots  of  ground  where  they  cultivate  the  cera  or 
betel  leaves,  which  the  natives  chew  with  areca-nut ; and 

(233) 


234- 


SIAM. 


fields  tliroTvn  up  in  ridges  all  crowned  'with  vegetables,  and 
where  the  Chinamen  with  bent  hacks  deepen  the  ditches, 
thro'wing  the  water  ■with  basket-shovels  over  the  growing 
plants,  or  else  gathering  what  is  fit  for  use.  W e cross  "wide 
ponds  full  of  water-lilies,  gathering  handfuls  as  we  pass, 
and  see  the  little  boats  full  of  the  lovely  lotus  flowers,  and 
their  long,  succulent  stems  all  tied  in  himches  ready  for  the 
market,  where  they  are  eagerly  purchased  as  a great  deli- 
cacy ; or  piled  up  in  tangled  masses  of  beauty,  and  over- 
flowing the  boat,  trail  their  broken  stems  and  petals  in  the 
limpid  water. 

Again  oim  way  is  through  orchards  fragrant  with  orange 
blossoms,  or  the  mellow,  luscious  odor  of  ripening  mangoes 
and  bananas.  Some  of  the  farm-houses  are  built  by  the 
river’s  edge,  and  our  approach  is  always  signalled  by  the 
barking  of  dogs  and  scampering  of  the  little  ebony  cupids. 
Sometimes  we  stop  to  buy  a few  pots  of  the  delicious  cocoa- 
nut  sugar  which  we  see  them  making  under  the  trees  by 
the  bank ; or  to  ask  for  eggs,  ducks,  aud  chickens,  or,  it 
inay  be,  to  teach  a little,  leaving  books  for  them  to  read, 
and  begonnof  them  to  let  us  take  their  children  to  our 
schools.  But  they  are  afraid  we  will  sell  the  children  or 
carry  them  out  of  the  kingdom,  and  so  we  have  never  yet 
succeeded  in  getting  a single  pupil  in  this  way.  I read 
with  wonder  of  the  mission  ships  going  from  island  to 
island  in  the  South  Pacific  and  gathei’ing  boys  and  girls  for 
the  schools.  It  must  be  that  the  natives  are  more  ready  to 
receive  the  Gospel  than  these  timid,  indifferent  Siamese. 

As  you  near  Petchaburee  the  scenery  becomes  more  pic- 
turesque aud  lovely.  The  winding  river,  -with  its  clear, 
sweet  waters ; the  luxuriant  fohage  on  either  bank ; the 
graceful  bamboos  swaying  their  plumy  heads,  and  nodding 
and  glancing  at  their  own  shadows  in  the  ripphug  waves, 
aud  almost  touching  across  the  stream ; the  mangroves, 
with  their  fern-like  leaves  crowding  into  the  water,  and 


PETCHABUREE. 


235 


standing  so  close  together  as  to  he  impenetrable  for  almost 
everything  more  delicate  than  the  crocodile  or  the  monkey, 
Whole  families  of  the  latter  sometimes  stand  on  the  bank 
and  grin  at  us,  or  smack  their  lips  in  anticipation  of  ba- 
nanas tossed  from  the  boat  Avindows.  They  have  a most 
comical  way  of  quietly  watching  the  fruit  till  it  falls. 
They  then  ran  to  the  spot  and  with  their  long  forearm  fish 
it  out  of  the  soft  mud  in  which  it  has  buried  itself.  They 
often  wash  them  and  then  tear  off  the  rind  and  eat  as 
daintily  as  you  or  I would  do,  being  careful  to  keep  all  the 
mud  from  the  mellow  pulp. 

A few  native  villages  are  found  along  the  river,  and 
usually  a Buddhist  monastery  near  by,  a resort  for  most  of 
the  able-bodied  men  and  boys  of  the  community,  who  are 
there  supported  in  idleness  and  sin.  Finely  cultivated 
rice-fields  creep  clear  dowm  to  the  river  bank.  The  soft- 
eyed,  fawn-colored  cattle  and  the  tame,  grizzly  buffalo 
browse  quietly  side  by  side  in  the  meadows,  while  the 
windings  of  the  river  afford  glimpses  of  the  far-away 
mountains,  outlined  Avith  wonderful  distinctness  against 
the  summer  sky.  They  look  blue  and  beautiful,  and  you 
imagine  quiet  places  of  shade  in  their  cool  depths,  with 
sweet,  wild  fiowers  imder  the  trees,  and  moss  covering  the 
rocks.  These  you  might  find,  but  cool  springs  of  water, 
and  purling  brooks,  laughing  and  leaping  from  rock  to 
rock,  such  as  make  the  mountains  of 'America  hke  fairy- 
land, I have  nowhere  found  in  Siam. 

Our  city  was  a favorite  resort  of  the  late  king,  Maha 
Mongkut,  and  on  that  account  it  boasts  of  some  improA'e- 
ments  which  very  few  Siamese  cities  outside  of  Bangkok 
can  show,  such  as  the  palace,  temples,  pagodas,  and  forts 
on  ICow  Maha  Sawan,  the  Mountain  of  the  Highest 
Heaven ; the  water-works,  Avith  pipes  from  the  river  to 
the  foot  of  the  mountain ; the  fine  structure  of  solid 
masonry,  called  the  Elephant  Bridge,  which  spans  the 


236 


SIAM. 


river ; the  two-storied  brick  buildings  along  ^Market  Street, 
and  the  many  and  costly  idols  in  the  Royal  Cave.  The 
city  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Petcbaburee  River. 
Lying  all  about  the  city  are  wide-spreading  plains,  dotted 
with  clusters  of  cocoa  and  sugar  pabns.  These  stately 
trees  are  so  abundant  that  an  eccentric  lady  once  visiting 
us  complained  that  she  “ conld  not  look  out  in  any  direction 
without  seeing  palms.”  Toward  the  close  of  the  rainy 
season  the  fields  are  clothed  wdth  verdime,  and  the  heavy 
heads  of  rich,  white  rice  ai*e  matm-ing  for  the  harvest, 
which  is  gathered  for  the  threshing  by  our  Christmas 
time. 

The  sun  comes  up  out  of  the  sea  every  morning  to  shine 
on  our  beautiful  home,  and  disappears  at  night  behind  the 
mountains  in  the  west  which  stand  guard  between  us  and 
Bitrmah.  There  are  lovely  sunsets,  with  grand  illumina- 
tions of  Palace  Mountain,  when  every  roof,  and  spire,  and 
pagoda  is  touched  with  fire  refiected  from  the  burnished 
heavens,  and  the  palms  on  the  plain  below  are  bathed  in 
the  mellow  glow,  reminding  one  of  pictures  of  the  Heav- 
enly City,  with  the  glory  shining  through.  Sometimes 
there  are  bands  of  color  stretching  from  west  to  east,  such 
as  I never  saw  anywhere  else,  and  the  wondrous  beauty  of 
which  is  only  eclipsed  by  the  magnificent  sunsets  in  Colo- 
rado, where  the  sun  goes  down  in  a y^^ie  of  crimson 
brightness,  and  bathes  in  blushes  the  snowy  summits  of 
the  grand  old  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  city  has  two  markets,  one  on  either  side  of  the  river, 
and  it  is  along  these  streets  that  the  principal  business  of 
the  province  is  transacted.  Market  Street,  on  the  east  side, 
is  lined  by  rows  of  two-storied  brick  buildings  for  nearly 
half  a mile ; but  they  are  almost  invisible  as  you  pass  along, 
because  the  merchants  who  live  in  them  expose  all  their 
goods  in  bamboo  sheds  built  out  in  front.  Then  the  huck- 
sters and  mai-ket-women  rent  the  space  before  these  sheds. 


PETCHABUREE. 


237 


and  sit  down  in  tlie  streets,  in  the  sunshine  or  rain,  with 
their  trays  of  fish,  fruit,  or  vegetables.  The  produce  is 
nearly  all  brought  in  from  the  country  by  women,  who 
carry  it  in  baskets  suspended  from  a pole  across  their 
shoulders  d la  Chinese.  Of  course,  fish  come  from  the 
sea  and  from  up  and  down  the  river  in  boats.  W e are  not 
far  from  the  sea,  and  the  boatmen  or  women  who  are 
bringing  fresh  fish  blow  a bufialo  horn  as  they  approach 
the  city  to  let  the  people  know  of  their  arrival.  Then 
women  and  children  are  seen  hurrying  to  the  boat  landings, 
with  a few  pennies  in  their  baskets,  to  buy  the  fish,  which 
are  very  abundant  and  cheap,  and  there  are  many  delicious 
varieties.  The  natives  are  expert  in  catching,  in  drying 
and  salting  fish,  and  preserving  them  in  other  ways,  and 
great  quantities  are  exported  from  Siam.  There  is  a sort 
of  tiny  prawn  gathered  from  the  sea  by  the  ton.  They  are 
put  in  tubs  or  large  earthen  vessels,  salted  and  crushed,  and 
allowed  to  stand  in  the  sun  till  they  are  partially  decayed. 
It  is  called  TcapicTc,  and  is  of  a puqilish  color,  and  has  a 
dreadful  odor  that  one  can  smell  from  one  end  of  the 
market  to  the  other.  It  is  a favorite  dish  with  the  Siamese. 
No  meal  seems  complete  without  it.  They  use  it  in  cook- 
ing curries  and  in  various  dressings  for  fish,  and  they  eat 
green  fruits,  such  as  tamarind  pods,  after  first  dipping 
them  into  salt  and  Jcapick.  Once  our  cook  told  me  it  was 
“ Siamese  butter.”  They  use  neither  milk  nor  butter  them- 
selves, and  wonder  how  we  can  bear  to  use  them.  They 
hold  our  butter,  and  we  their  kapick^  in  mutual  regard,  and 
the  sentiment  is  not  very  fiattering  to  either  of  the  articles 
in  question.  Just  here  I am  reminded  of  a Chinese  woman 
in  Canton,  who  thought  if  she  became  a Christian  she 
would  have  to  eat  foreign  food,  and  so  one  day  in  talking 
to  a missionary  she  said,  pathetically,  “I  can  love  your 
Jesus,  but  I can’t  eat  your  butter  ! ” 

There  are  no  large  and  handsome  native  stores  in  Siam, 


238 


SIAM. 


but  everything  is  mixed  together,  and  the  places  wliere  they 
sell  their  wares  are  just  little  stalls  of  hamhoo,  often  not  more 
than  ten  feet  square.  The  same  man  or  woman  may  have 
hardware  and  dry-goods  ; kerosene  oil  and  lamps  and  dishes ; 
beeswax,  ropes,  brass  jewelry,  and  beads ; liquor,  rice,  mats, 
rattan,  fruits,  betel,  tobacco,  priests’  sandals,  slate-pencils, 
Tcajjicic,  Chinese  fans,  and  umbrellas ; boxes  of  lacquer  ware, 
or  beautiful  straw-work  by  the  Burmese  and  Laos ; ducks’ 
eggs,  lotus-lily  seeds,  dried  beans,  spht  peas,  indigo,  sul- 
phur, alum,  camphor,  spices  and  peppers,  red,  green,  and 
dried  ; besides  and^a/m»i^'5,  the  two  cloths^which 

constitute  the  usual  Siamese  dress,  one  to  drape  from  the 
waist  to  the  knees,  and  the  other  to  throw  over  the  shoul- 
ders like  a scarf.  Then  there  are  Chinese  eating-stalls,  where 
they  are  frying  lotus  stems  in  lard,  and  doughnuts  in  cocoa 
or  peanut  oil.  They  will  have  a pig’s-head  roasted  and 
temjitingly  displayed,  or  some  dried  chickens  hung  up  by 
the  neck,  and  all  varieties  of  rice-cakes  and  sliced  and 
pickled  onions.  The  Siamese  make  curries  (a  kind  of 
highly-seasoned  stew  to  eat  with  rice)  of  bats,  rats,  and 
frogs.  They  even  eat  white  ants,  which  are  fried  crisp 
and  sold  by  measure. 

The  afternoon  is  the  busiest  time  in  the  Petchaburee 
markets,  because  the  country  people  walk  and  carry  all 
their  loads,  and  they  cannot  get  to  the  market  in  the  early 
morning,  as  they  do  in  lands  where  they  have  horses  and 
carts  and  wagons,  and  even  cars  to  carry  produce.  Here 
they  have  no  such  things,  and  I suppose  the  Siamese  would 
laugh  to  see  any  one  rich  enough  to  own  a wagon  caiTying 
vegetables  to  market  in  it.  I never  saw  but  one  wagon  in 
Petchaburee,  and  that  belonged  to  a nobleman  from  Bang- 
kok, and  he  rode  about  in  it  as  if  it  was  a carriage.  A 
great  many  dogs  go  to  market,  for  they  know  it  is  a good 
place  to  steal  fish  and  doughnuts,  so  many  of  the  women 
sit  on  the  ground,  and  the  stands  are  very  low.  It  looks 


PETCHABUREE. 


239 


almost  as  if  they  set  a table  for  the  dogs,  and  put  every- 
thing low  down,  so  the  animals  conld  reach  it,  and  many  a 
mouthful  they  snatch.  The  people  beat  them,  cut  them, 
scald  them,  and  swear  at  them,  but  no  one  kills  them. 
They  think  that  is  a terrible  sin,  for  how  can  they  tell  but 
some  dead  friend  has  been  reborn  into  the  world  in  the 
fonn  of  that  dog  ? 

Some  sacred  cattle  were  given  to  the  king  when  he  vis- 
ited Calcutta.  They  were  sent  to  this  province  to  be  kept. 
The  governor  allows  them  to  run  loose  and  pick  up  their 
living  wherever  they  can.  They  go  to  market  regularly 
and  lay  in  a suj)ply  of  the  nicest,  freshest  vegetables,  the 
sweetest  sugar-cane,  and  the  best  rice  the  stalls  afford.  The 
streets  are  so  narrow,  and  the  cattle  so  large  and  strong, 
they  trample  and  push,  crushing  and  upsetting  as  much 
more  as  they  eat.  They  usually  take  whatever  is  set  before 
them,  but  there  is  one  unpleasant  peculiarity  about  this 
kind  of  customers — they  don’t  pay.  The  markets  are  open 
every  day.  There  are  no  Sabbaths  of  rest  in  Siam,  and  the 
people  do  not  observe  any  day  of  the  week  to  keep  it  holy 
unto  God.  They  have  what  they  call  sacred  days.  They 
go  to  the  temples  in  the  early  morning  and  make  offerings 
to  the  idols  and  the  priests.  Sometimes  they  tarry  to  listen 
to  the  Pah  preaching  service,  which  they  cannot  under- 
stand, but  more  frequently  they  go  home  to  work,  or  gam- 
ble all  the  rest  of  the  day. 

The  principal  thoroughfare  of  Petchaburee,  as  of  most 
Siamese  cities,  is  the  river.  Ours  is  not  very  wide,  but  in 
the  rainy  season  it  overflows  its  banks,  and  is  quite  deep. 
Then  an  occasional  steam-tug  from  Bangkok  ventures  upon 
its  waters,  to  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  all  the  natives, 
to  many  of  whom  this  is  the  only  specimen  of  a “ fire-boat  ” 
they  have  ever  seen.  All  through  the  day  and  night  little 
native  boats  are  going  past  our  home. 

There  are  no  floating  houses  here,  but  quite  a number  of 


240 


SIAM. 


people  live  in  boats,  especially  above  tbe  Elephant  Bridge. 
This  bridge  was  built  more  than  ten  years  ago  by  the  Kro- 
matah,  who  is  now  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  in  Bang- 
kok. He  had  it  made  strong  and  wide,  so  that  elephants 
could  cross  over.  It  is  about  half  a mile  from  the  mission 
compound,  and  the  last  time  I crossed  it  the  old  beggar- 
woman  who  so  often  sits  there  asked  an  alms.  I suspect 
she  is  a slave  and  they  send  her  out  to  beg,  because  she  can 
get  more  that  way  than  her  toil  would  be  worth,  so  I am 
opposed  to  giving  her  money.-  But  I told  her  if  she  would 
sweep  the  bridge  every  Wednesday  when  I passed  over  I 
would  give  her  some  pennies.  When  I returned  she  had 
it  half  swept,  and  in  the  evening  I sent  her  the  pennies. 
Beggars  here  are  not  always  poor  people.  It  is  more  like 
a trade,  and  many  would  much  rather  beg  than  work. 

Hot  only  the  city,  but  also  tliis  province,  is  called  Petch- 
aburee.  It  is  ruled  by  a Governor  and  Lieutenant-Gover- 
nor, and  other  nobles  and  otBcers.  The  two  highest  rulers 
at  present  are  dukes,  “A*^yas,”  and  half-brothers  of  the 
ex-regent,  and  they  live  in  the  best  houses  in  the  city.  We 
cannot  call  them  palaces,  but  they  are  built  of  brick,  with 
steep  tile  roofs,  and  are  surrounded  by  walls  whose  gates 
are  shut  every  night.  There  are  many  houses  inside  these 
walls  besides  the  brick  ones ; they  are  made  of  boards  and 
bamboo  for  the  servants  and  slaves.  There  are  long  bam- 
boo sheds  where  the  prisoners  are  confined,  and  still  others 
where  they  keep  horses  and  carriages  and  boats  and  goats. 
There  are  pavilions  where  the  native  players  perform  their 
dramas  and  dance  to  please  their  masters,  as  did  the  daugh- 
ter of  Ilerodias  in  the  olden  time.  The  greatest  reward 
for  fine  acting  in  these  places,  is  to  be  taken  into  the  duke’s 
household  aud  assigned  a place  among  the  women  of  his 
harem.  It  is  in  these  same  pavilions,  or  salas,  as  the  Siam- 
ese call  them,  that  the  judges  and  scribes  sit  when  court  is 
in  session.  The  mode  of  capital  punishment  is  beheading. 


PETCHABUREE. 


241 


The  natives  themselves  say,  “ Ton  can  even  kill  a man  and 
go  unpunished,  that  is  if  you  have  money  enough  to  buy 
your  head.”  Sometimes  heads  ai’e  not  worth  very  much, 
and  can  be  purchased  cheaply. 

The  governors  have  a few  articles  of  foreign  furniture  in 
their  houses,  such  as  tables,  chairs,  lamps,  and  mirrors. 
The  latter,  I can  assure  you,  are  used  more  than  any  of  the 
others,  especially  the  chairs.  If  you  want  to  make  a Siam- 
ese uncomfortable,  have  him  sit  down  on  a chair.  Ten  to 
one  unless  you  watch  him,  he  will  tuck  his  bare  black  feet 
up  on  the  chair  too,  and  squat  there  like  a mammoth  frog. 
The  women  of  these  Petchabriree  harems  know  nothing  of 
true  housekeeping,  and  everything  is  in  a disorderly,  untidy 
condition.  The  governor  treats  liis  head  wife  with  a great 
deal  of  kindness.  They  are  often  seen  out  riding  together 
in  the  same  carriage.  He  sometimes  goes  to  the  country, 
and  a few  of  his  wives  follow  after,  riding  on  horseback,  with 
a foot  on  each  side,  like  Indian  squaws.  He  has  a great 
many  children,  and  seems  very  fond  of  them.  Indeed,  he 
seldom  appears  in  public  without  some  of  his  children 
about  him.  Of  course  these  little  ones  are  of  higher  rank 
than  any  others  in  the  proHnce,  and  therefore  they  are  not 
permitted  to  attend  our  mission-schools,  where  they  would 
have  to  mingle  with  the  common  people.  W e have  visited 
them  occasionally,  and  given  them  books,  but  they  are  very 
ignorant  indeed  of  our  religion,  and  in  all  the  years  that  I 
have  been  here,  they  have  never  once  been  to  church. 

Petchaburee  is  said  to  have  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  but 
the  houses  of  the  city  are  mostly  built  of  unpainted  teak 
boards,  or  split  bamboo,  and  covered  with  a curious  roofing 
of  sewed  leaves,  and  so  hidden  in  trees  and  tropical  foliage 
that  you  can  see  but  a small  part  of  the  city  at  a time.  The 
streets  are  full  of  children  playing,  and  servants  and  traders 
going  about  their  avocations,  and  at  all  hours  of  the  day  you 
may  meet  yellow-robed  Buddhist  priests,  or  worshippers  coin- 
11 


242 


SIAM. 


iiig  and  going  througli  tlie  many  beautiful  temple  gates.  This 
was  once  a walled  city,  and  tlie  gates  were  closed  and  guarded 
every  night.  Tiuces  of  the  old  wall  are  still  to  be  seen, 
and  on  Market  Street,  east  side,  the  bouses  are  designated 
as  being  below  or  above  the  city  gate.  I have  often  passed 
the  ruins  of  an  old  fort  that  was  built  long  ago  as  a defence 
against  the  Burmese,  wlio  frequently  invaded  the  land.  The 
site  is  now  occupied  by  what  is  called  the  Fort  temple,  and 
the  monks,  with  bare  heads  and  feet,  and  sleepy  images  of 
the  Buddha,  guard  its  historic  boundaries.  This  province 
figures  in  the  history  of  Siam.  A rebellion  against  the 
king  was  once  planned  here,  but  the  leaders  were  captured 
and  slain,  and  their  followers  scattered.  There  are  records 
of  invasions  and  battles,  victories  aud  defeats.  This  very 
city,  where  I now  sit  and  write  so  quietly,  has  been  pillaged 
and  burned,  and  the  inhabitants  carried  off  as  slaves.  But 
these  things  all  occurred  before  my  day,  and  there  is  no 
sign  now  of  these  ever  being  repeated. 

The  soldiers  are  all  drafted  ; such  a thing  as  a volunteer 
is  unheard  of,  and  patriotism  is  an  unknown  emotion  in  the 
bosom  of  a Siamese.  Perhaps  it  is  because  they  have  no 
graves,  nor  hearthstones  to  fight  for.  Their  little  bamboo 
hut,  with  its  wretched  inmates  and  squalid  surroundings, 
does  not  inspire  them  with  that  lofty  and  heroic  spirit 
which  leads  civilized  men  to  die  for  their  country. 


CHAPTEE  XXVII. 


WALKS  ABOUT  PETCHABUKEE. 

There  are  many  interesting  places  about  this  old  city ; 
and  among  them  one  which  I have  often  visited — “ Wat 
Nah.  Pra  Taht,’^  or  in  Bangkok  phraseology,  “ Wat  Malm 
Taht^’’ — “ The  Temple  of  the  Sacred  Bones.”  Buddhist 
priests  who  go  to  the  mountains  to  live  as  hermits,  dig  and 
search  in  the  caves  and  among  the  rocks  in  secluded  places 
for  little  white  and  yellow  stones  which  they  believe  are 
Buddba’s  bones.  If  you  presume  to  question  how  they 
came  there,  they  will  innocently  answer,  “ His  sacred  bones 
have  power  to  go  wherever  they  please.”  Here  are  the 
ruins  of  a large,  unfinished  pagoda,  in  which  is  deposited 
some  of  these  marvellous  stones.  Although  carried  to 
scarcely  half  its  intended  height,  it  towers  above  every- 
thing else  on  the  ground,  and  serves  as  a landmark  for 
miles  about  the  country.  Great  heaps  of  building  material 
lie  about,  and  the  scaffolding  still  clings  to  the  wall,  though 
broken  aud  weather-worn.  The  pagoda  is  built  of  bricks 
and  has  many  cracks  and  fissures,  where  plants,  vines,  and 
trees  even  are  growing  in  wild  luxuriance.  These  will 
eventually  destroy  the  tower  as  added  years  give  them 
strength  and  weight,  and  the  openings  are  widened  where 
their  roots  have  found  lodgment.  We  climbed  up  into  the 
pagoda  and  looked  out  from  one  of  the  windows  over  the 
city.  We  could  see  very  few  houses,  for  the  trees  hid  them. 
We  ascended  a long  flight  of  steps  on  the  outside,  then 
came  to  an  open  doorway.  All  beneath  seems  to  be  solid 
masomy.  Here,  however,  there  are  two  passage-ways  cross- 

(243) 


244 


SIAM. 


iug  eaeli  other  at  right  angles,  cutting  the  pagoda  into  four 
equal  parts,  and  at  each  end  of  these  passages  there  is  an 
opening.  Three  of  them  are  windows,  the  other  the  door 
bj  Avhich  we  entered.  In  tliis  temple’s  grounds  you  can 
see  one  hundred  and  eighty-six  large  gilt  idols,  besides  parts 
of  a great  many  more  that  are  so  broken  and  piled  together 
we  could  not  count  them.  They  are  arranged  mostly  along 
the  outer  wall  of  a long,  narrow  building  Avhich  surrounds 
the  four  sides  of  an  open  court.  It  was  evidently  built  for 
them,  as  they  all  fit  in  their  places.  This  outer  wall  is  solid 
except  for  three  or  four  very  narrow  doorways.  The  inner 
waU  facing  the  open  comd  is  not  more  than  a foot  and  a 
half  high,  with  pillars  at  regular  intervals  to  support  the 
roof,  which  is  quite  heavy  and  covered  with  curious  Chi- 
nese tiles.  The  court  surrounded  by  these  idols  is  about 
three  hundred  feet  long  and  one  lumdred  and  fifty  feet 
wide.  This  is  only  one  of  many  buildings  in  the  same 
temple  grounds  and  perhaps  cost  the  least  money.  The 
idols  are  of  brick  and  mortar,  smoothly  plastered  and  gilded, 
and  could  not  have  been  made  for  less  than  five  thousand 
dollars.  Tucked  down  by  the  side  of  one  of  the  idols,  we 
found  a little  strip  of  yellow  cloth,  and  on  it  were  written 
a few  words  in  lead-pencil  saying  the  owner  wished  to  send 
it  in  care  of  Buddha  to  a dead  woman  named  “C7m?n.” 
They  have  so  much  faith  in  yellow  cloth  that  they  think 
the  merit  attached  to  it  would  help  redeem  a soul  from 
hell. 

We  saw  one  old  temple  whose  great  double  doors  Avere 
nearly  covered  Avith  gold-leaf,  that  had  been  put  there,  a 
little  at  a time,  by  devout  worshippers.  W e entered  this 
idol-house  one  day  and  found  many  large  and  small  images 
of  Buddha  arranged  in  tiers  over  the  altar.  The  inside 
walls  were  covered  Avith  bright-colored  pictures  painted  on 
the  smooth  plastered  surface,  of  scenes  from  the  stories  of 
Buddha  and  the  giants  and  angels.  Another  temple  near 


WALKS  ABOUT  PETCHABUREE. 


245 


by  has  lost  its  former  glory  and  the  grass  and  weeds  grow 
over  the  door-steps  once  trod  by  myriads  of  feet.  The 
room  is  now  used  as  a sort  of  storehouse  for  the  rubbish  of 
the  ipai,  or  monastery.  Here  we  found  some  strange  old 
idols  made  of  metal.  They  seemed  to  have  been  cast  in 
moulds  in  pieces  and  then  soldered  together.  Tliey  were 
standing  images  of  the  Buddha,  and  at  one  time  held  their 
proud  heads  ten  feet  high,  but  are  now  on  their  backs  in  a 
deserted  corner.  Through  their  broken  sides  we  could  see 
they  were  filled  with  a hardened  clay.  Hanging  from  the 
ceilings  were  old  tattered  scrolls  and  banners,  with  Chinese 
pictures  and  inscriptions,  and  on  the  altar  a white-ant  hill 
that  had  already  buried  many  of  the  smaller  idols  under  its 
dome  and  was  slowly  creeping  over  the  open  hands  of  the 
insensible  Buddha. 

In  another  temple  we  found  priests’  beds  spread  out  be- 
fore the  altar.  I supposed  of  course  they  were  observing 
some  special  season  of  fasting  or  prayer  before  their  gods. 
But  that  is  not  always  the  case.  Sometimes  they  are  sim- 
ply watching  the  precious  things  upon  the  altar.  On  this 
one,  besides  more  idols  than  I found  time  to  count,  were 
very  many  of  the  sacred  storied  umbrellas,  an  image  of 
Buddha  -with  the  seven-headed  dragon  spreading  itself  as 
a shade  for  his  sacred  head,  an  elephant  of  brass  offering  a 
cup  of  nectar  to  him,  and  a tray  with  cups  of  tea  that  were 
refilled  as  often  as  they  dried  empty.  The  evaporation  of 
the  “ cup  which  clieers,  but  not  inebriates,”  seemed  to  have 
a very  soporific  effect  upon  the  stolid  images,  which,  since 
first  they  were  placed  there,  have  never  once  spoken  or 
moved.  On  the  outside  are  elaborate  plaster  ornaments 
over  the  windows  and  doors,  and  there  are  twenty-eight 
images  of  genii  scattered  over  the  roof.  They  look  fright- 
ful enough  Avitli  their  drawn  swords  and  crooked  mouths, 
almost  as  dreadful  as  the  two  alligators,  with  wide-extended 
jaws  and  tails  erect,  ready  to  attack  and  swallow  a blue 


24G 


S/AM. 


cliina  soup-plate  tliat  occupies  tlie  centre  of  a large  plaster 
lotus-lilj  on  tlie  gable  end  of  the  wall. 

There  is  a row  of  beautiful  lotus  pagodas  before  these 
temples,  and  each  one  holds  in  its  crown  some  sacred  relic. 
Temples,  pagodas,  sacred  shrines,  and  po-trees  are  all  en- 
closed by  a high  brick  wall,  with  beautiful  gateways  that  I 
have  never  yet  seen  closed,  and  worshippers  are  going  in 
and  out  continually.  The  temple  with  the  golden  doors,  of 
which  I have  already  spoken,  is  opposite  the  principal  gate- 
way, and  seems  to  be  a favorite  shrine  for  the  paying  of 
vows.  Here  are  hundreds  of  theatre  images  stacked  be- 
tween the  doors,  brought  by  those  who  have  gained  their 
desires ; and  instead  of  the  real  theatre  they  vowed  to  give, 
they  bring  these  miserable  clay  dolls  and  place  them  l)efore 
the  senseless  idol  that  knows  no  better.  There  is  a little 
altar  for  incense,  and  on  it  are  found  the  two  bamboo  sticks 
they  fit  together  with  a prayer,  and  then  toss  up  before  the 
god  to  try  their  fortune. 

There  is  no  place  that  we  visit  oftener,  nor  enjoy  more, 
than  Palace  Mountain.  It  is  only  about  a mile  from  our 
home,  and  from  the  moment  you  leave  the  level,  dusty 
plain,  and  pass  under  the  shade  of  its  trees,  you  seem  to  be 
in  another  world.  The  road  leading  up  the  mountain  is 
paved  with  bricks,  and  there  is  a wall  on  either  side  of  it 
to  keep  you  from  falling  down  the  steep  bank  among  the 
shai-p,  rough  rocks.  There  are  beautiful  trees  covering  the 
mountain-side,  and  some  of  them  are  in  bloom  nearly  all 
the  year,  j^mong  the  rocks  are  trailing  vines,  delicate 
plants,  and  wild  flowers.  There  is  the  rustle  of  dry  leaves 
under  your  feet,  and  a fragrant,  woodsy  smell  in  the  air. 
Little  birds  are  upon  the  branches,  and  now  and  then  a 
brown  bunny  whisks  across  the  path  and  hides  under  the 
shadow  of  the  wall.  There  are  pleasant  resting-places  built 
under  the  trees,  and  a new-comer  might  be  startled  at  the 
first  sight  of  the  great  white  sei^jent  that  rears  its  scaly 


WALKS  ABOUT  PETCHABUREE. 


247 


head  among  the  prickly-pears  at  the  mountain’s  foot,  but  it 
is  just  as  harmless  as  brick  and  mortar  in  any  other  shape. 
Just  in  front  of  it  is  a tile-covered  shed  and  two  large 
wooden  tanks  for  water,  and  near  by  are  wide,  pleasant 
seats.  One  of  them  is  inlaid  with  marble,  and  is  a special 
favorite  with  the  natives  because  it  is  always  cool.  The 
mountain  has  many  peaks,  and  each  one  is  surmounted  by 
some  sort  of  a building.  The  most  prominent  are  the  pal- 
ace, the  audience-hall,  the  observatory,  the  royal  pagodas, 
two  or  three  small  temples  for  idols,  and  the  prasalit^'  a 
cruciform  building  betokening  royalty,  and  to  be  found 
near  every  palace.  There  are  buildings  for  the  king’s  reti- 
nue, rooms  for  the  body-guard,  many  porches,  sheds,  and 
“ salasP  Three  little  forts  crown  as  many  peaks,  and  there 
are  a few  old  rusty  cannon. 

There  are  several  small  caves  in  this  mountain  filled  with 
hideous  images  of  the  dead,  and  of  others  who  are  torturing 
their  own  bodies,  or  sulfering  the  pangs  of  hell.  There  are 
bland-faced  Buddhas  peering  from  every  nook  and  corner ; 
and  in  one  of  the  caves  there  are  plaster  elephants,  tigers, 
and  crows.  In  another  they  have  a model  of  the  “ sacred 
footprint  of  Buddha,”  the  original  of  which  they  say  can 
be  seen  at  Mount  PrdbahV'  in  this  kingdom.  The  Sia- 
mese have  a legend  of  Ceylon  which  says  that  fair  island 
was  formed  by  a clod  of  earth  which  fell  from  the  sacred 
heel  of  Buddha  as  he  stepped  from  India  across  the  Bay  of 
Bengal  to  Siam.  One  could  almost  believe  the  legend 
after  seeing  these  giant  footprints  of  their  god  ! 

There  are  two  large  Buddliist  monasteries  on  this  moun- 
tain. We  went  one  morning  to  attend  the  temple  service. 
We  started  before  nine  o’clock,  but  found  the  service  had 
begun.  All  about  the  doorway  and  on  the  temple  steps 
the  worshippers  were  kneeling  with  clasped  hands  and 
looking  toward  the  idols,  before  which  five  priests  were 
offering  prayers  or  adorations.  They  repeated  the  praises 


248 


SIAM. 


in  turn,  some  in  Pali  and  some  in  Siamese.  The  incense- 
sticks  were  burning,  and  the  glare  of  the  wax  tapers  tried 
to  rival  God’s  better  sunshine,  wliich  pom’ed  in  floods  of 
glory  through  the  open  windows.  After  the  high-priest 
had  taken  his  place  in  the  holy  chair,  had  folded  up  his 
limbs  as  you  always  see  them  in  images  of  Buddha,  and 
placed  the  large  feather  fan  before  his  face  to  shut  out  the 
distracting  world,  he  began  to  repeat  the  liturgy,  and  all 
the  people  made  responses.  "When  that  was  finished  there 
was  a general  bowing  to  the  image,  and  then  they  waited, 
vdth  hands  still  clasped,  for  the  sermon.  All  this  time  we 
had  been  standing  in  the  vestibule ; now  we  entered,  the 
people  making  way  for  us,  and  the  high-priest  inviting  us 
to  a place  at  his  right  hand.  We  seated  ourselves  on  the 
floor  of  the  temple  like  the  rest  of  the  audience.  The  sub- 
ject of  the  sermon  was  Sanctification,  and  he  said  some 
good  things — among  others,  that  if  they  desired  to  be  holy 
they  must  flee  from  sin.  At  the  conclusion  the  people 
again  bowed  their  heads  and  worshipped  both  the  idols 
and  the  priests,  and  were  then  quietly  dismissed.'  The 
Siamese  have  no  singing  at  their  religious  services.  The 
high-priest  now  turned  in  his  chair  and  greeted  us  kindly. 
His  fan  had  been  no  protection  against  my  gaze.  I hope, 
however,  I was  not  a serious  cause  of  distraction,  although 
I was  the  “observed  of  all  observers.”  As  I could  not 
talk  to  him  very  fluently,  I left  him  to  listen  to  my  com- 
panion’s remarks,  while  I wandered  about  the  temple.  In 
the  centre  of  the  rear  sat  a large  gilt  Buddha,  with  smaller 
idols  about  it,  holding  rods  and  banners,  emblems  of  his 
power,  I su]>pose.  The  platform  on  which  the  Buddha 
rested  was  a sort  of  altar,  and  upon  it  were  all  manner  of 
knick-knacks  and  offerings.  I noticed  a large  blue  soup- 
tureen,  filled  with  sand,  into  which  they  thrust  the  incense- 
sticks  ; glass  sugar-bowls,  filled  with  flowers,  some  sweet 
wild  ones  froiu  the  mountain-side,  others  artificial  made  of 


WALKS  ABOUT  PETCHABUREE. 


249 


paper,  gauze,  and  tinsel ; wax  tapers  burning  here  and 
there ; little  betel-trajs  and  pasteboard  elephants,  with 
bunches  of  flowers  appearing  to  grow  out  of  their  backs. 
It  seemed  to  be  the  “what-not”  of  the  temple;  and  there 
we  also  saw  two  photographs  of  the  present  king,  taken 
when  he  was  in  the  priesthood,  and  clad  in  priestly  yellow 
robes.  On  either  side  of  the  largest  idol,  and  a little  in 
front,  stood  two  small  tables,  each  containing  a mirror, 
stands  of  paper  flowers  covered  with  glass  globes,  vases 
with  real  lotus-lilies,  trays  of  betel,  candles,  paper  elephants, 
etc.  The  inside  walls  of  the  temple  were  covered  with 
Chinese  pictures.  In  front  and  above  the  double  doors 
was  depicted  a lofty  temple,  whose  spire  reached  the 
clouds.  All  about  it  were  pagodas,  idol-houses,  and  salas. 
Crowds  of  people  were  flocking  to  it  from  all  directions, 
some  mounted  upon  elephants,  others  in  two-wheeled  carts 
drawn  by  oxen,  while  the  poor  trudged  on  foot.  In  the 
foreground  was  a fancy  bridge  crossing  a river,  whose 
waters  were  filled  with  bathers.  On  one  of  the  sides  of 
the  temple  was  a sea  view,  with  the  blue  waves  rolling,  and 
fearful-looking  dragons  lifting  their  heads  and  lashing  their 
tails  in  the  foam.  There  was  plenty  of  blue  and  lavender 
sky  in  these  pictures,  and  trees  of  the  same  shades,  but  the 
greenest  of  green  for  the  grass  underfoot.  Let  those  who 
admire  Chinese  and  Japanese  paintings  go  into  ecstasies 
over  them  if  they  will,  but  I cannot  join  their  number. 
Between  the  doors  was  a small  table,  holding  an  old  nm- 
down  clock  ; vases  with  paper  flowers,  and  a few  peacock’s 
feathers ; also,  three  images  of  miserable  old  men,  who,  in 
silent  contemplation  of  the  idol  before  them,  or  in  thinking 
of  nothing,  had  lost  themselves  all  but  their  bones  and 
skin.  Their  hair  was  white  with  age,  and  it  was  pitiful  to 
behold  the  look  of  abject  nothingness  upon  their  faces. 
They  were  to  represent  Buddliist  saints. 

As  we  passed  out  of  the  temple  door,  after  leaving  some 
11* 


250 


SIAM. 


books  with  the  priest,  and  down  through  the  paved  walks 
of  the  temple  grounds,  we  saw  a part  of  the  congregation 
under  the  trees  busy  eating  their  breakfasts,  which  they 
had  caiTied  with  them  that  they  might  remain  for  the 
second  service.  Descending  the  mountain,  it  began  to 
rain,  and  we  slipped  under  a sala  to  wait,  and  we  watched 
the  crowd  buying  and  selling  bamboo  sprouts.  They  were 
roasted  ready  to  eat.  There  was  a great  deal  of  loud  talk- 
ing, and  chaffering,  of  selling  and  taking  back  again  be- 
cause the  money  was  not  good  or  they  did  not  give  the 
full  price,  and  in  the  midst  of  it  all,  a bull-fight  over  the 
husks  that  had  been  thrown  away.  It  was  their  sacred  day, 
too,  but  they  have  no  idea  of  keeping  it  as  a holy  Sabbath. 
Being  wearied  with  the  noise  and  contention,  we  turned 
away  and  hurried  home  through  the  rain.  A few  hours 
later  in  the  day,  we  met  at  the  mission  chapel  for  our 
"\V eduesday  evening  prayer-meeting.  How  great  and  yet 
how  blessed  was  the  contrast  to  the  morning  service ! 

The  first  little  school-house  I built  had  become  too  small, 
and  I went  one  evening  to  see  about  having  it  enlarged. 
M.  and  P.,  two  little  native  girls,  were  with  me.  Just  as 
we  crossed  the  Elephant  Bridge  we  saw  a marriage  proces- 
sion. There  were  fifteen  or  twenty  men  and  boys,  each 
with  a tray  of  food  ; some  of  them  looked  very  tempting, 
especially  one  filled  with  sugar-coated  cookies.  We  had 
not  gone  far  when  we  saw  some  donkeys  quietly  grazing  by 
the  roadside.  We  were  in  Temple  Street,  back  of  the  gov- 
ernor’s place,  and  these  little  creatures  he  had  brought  with 
him  from  India  when  he  went  to  -witness  the  grand  display 
at  the  proclamation  of  Queen  Victoria  as  Empress  of  India. 
The  little  natives  with  me  had  never  seen  a donkey  before, 
and  did  not  know  what  they  were.  When  I told  them, 
P.  said,  “Is  this  what  Jesus  rode?”  “When?”  said  I, 
anxious  to  see  what  they  remembered  about  it.  “ As  He 
entered  Jerusalem,  and  the  children  shouted  ‘Hosanna!’” 


WALKS  ABOUT  PETCHABUREE. 


251 


said  M.  “’Wlien  they  went  to  Egypt  and  His  mother  and 
Joseph  were  along.  They  were  afraid  of  that  king,  what’s 
his  name?  I forget,”  said  P.  We  had  no  time  to  talk  fur- 
ther of  this,  for  we  heard  a great  squealing  behind  ns,  and 
turning,  saw  two  Chinamen  carrying  a big  black  pig.  They 
had  tied  the  poor  pig’s  legs  together,  and  then  strung  him 
on  a bamboo  pole,  the  ends  of  which  rested  on  their  shoul- 
ders, and  thus  they  bore  him  squealing  through  the  streets. 
Just  here,  too,  we  were  passing  some  Chinese  temples. 
They  were  ornamented  in  a wonderful  manner  with  dragons, 
and  birds,  and  fishes  about  the  roof  and  gables,  and  on  one 
side  a hideous-looking  head  with  wide-open  mouth  in  which 
was  thrust  a sword.  The  children  were  so  busy  watch- 
ing the  pig  and  the  temples,  that  they  stumpped  their  bare 
toes  on  the  bricks  that  stuck  up  in  the  street.  Everybody 
we  met  said,  “Where  are  you  going?”  They  ask  that 
instead  of  “ How  do  you  do  ? ” or  “ Are  you  well  ? ” They 
do  not  like  to  be  asked  about  their  health  for  fear  the 
spirits  will  trouble  them  if  they  say  they  are  well.  If  they 
have  been  sick  and  are  getting  better,  they  will  insist  they 
are  worse. 

We  passed  five  wats  on  our  way  with  their  wide  grounds 
and  many  temples,  their  dogs  and  naughty  boys.  There  is 
also  a monastery  at  either  end  of  our  walk.  You  can  hard- 
ly go  anywhere  in  a Siamese  city  without  being  in  sight  of 
some  Buddhist  temples.  There  are  a few  fig-trees  on  this 
street,  but  the  fruit  is  small  and  inferior. 

Passing  through  a narrow  alley  we  came  into  the  market 
which  was  full  of  all  kinds  of  fish  from  the  river  and  the  sea 
— fi’esh,  salt,  and  dry.  We  hurried  through  as  fast  as  possi- 
ble, for  if  fish-markets  are  bad  at  home  and  at  Billingsgate, 
they  are  far  worse  in  Siam,  both  in  speech  and  odor. 

We  saw  several  white  tents  of  the  priests  in  the  stubble- 
fields,  who  had  come  to  be  feasted  during  the  Chinese  holi- 
days. They  call  themselves  “forest  priests,”  and  they 


252 


S/AM. 


tliink  they  make  a great  deal  of  merit  by  leaving  the  tem- 
ples and  pretending  to  camp  in  the  forests  for  a few  days. 
They  are  careful  never  to  do  it,  however,  except  at  holiday 
times,  when  the  people  will  nourish  them  with  all  their 
daintiest  food.  Their  tents  are  large  umbrellas  with  long 
handles  which  they  plant  in  the  ground,  and  when  the  um- 
brella is  opened,  they  have  curtains  hanging  from  the  edge 
do^vn  to  the  eai-th.  It  makes  a round,  cosy  room  with  a 
pole  in  the  centre. 

W e also  saw  three  ox-carts  all  ready  for  a journey  across 
the  country.  They  are  queer-looking  things,  with  two 
wheels  and  a long,  narrow  bed  made  of  sticks  like  the  hay- 
racks in  old-fashioned  bams.  These  were  filled  with  rice- 
sti’aw,  and  in  one  of  them  I saw  a fighting-cock  tied  by  its 
leg.  I suppose  its  master  was  the  ox-driver,  and  he  took 
liis  chicken  along  for  company,  and  to  gamble  “with  by  the 
way.  On  one  of  the  racks  was  a covered  bamboo  arrange- 
ment into  which  the  traveller  was  expected  to  crawl  for  the 
night.  There  he  could  sleep  as  snugly  as  an  Indian  pap- 
poose  in  the  wicker  pocket  on  its  mother’s  back.  These 
grand  preparations  were  all  for  the  benefit  of  a young  Eng- 
lishman who  was  going  off  to  see  the  hot  springs  ahoiit 
forty  miles  from  Petchaburee.  He  must  have  a guide  and 
servants.  He  must  carry  his  food,  and  pots  and  kettles  to 
cook  it  in,  and  dishes,  and  water,  and  indeed  everything  he 
may  need. 

About  a month  after  this  walk  I went  to  see  the  Chinese 
temple  we  had  then  passed.  The  door  was  kindly  opened 
for  me  by  a fat,  jolly-looking  Chinaman,  who  showed  me 
about  and  told  me  all  he  could  in  his  broken  Siamese.  I 
found  the  inside  of  the  temple,  which  looks  so  gay  without, 
rough,  unfinished,  and  dirty.  On  one  side  there  was  the 
figure  of  a large  tigress  and  two  cubs,  made  of  plaster-work 
against  the  wall.  Above  these  were  little  Chinese  houses 
full  of  people.  The  porches,  doors,  and  windows  of  these 


WALKS  ABOUT  FETCH ABUREE. 


253 


little  houses  u-ere  all  bordered  with  buttons,  and  there  were 
bright-colored  trees  and  birds.  Below  the  tigress  wa3  a 
small  tank  walled  up,  into  which  they  throw  the  fire- 
crackers when  they  come  to  worship  and  make  merit. 
Crackers  and  other  fireworks  are  never  used  by  the  heathen 
for  mere  play,  but  are  a regular  part  of  theii*  worship,  and 
they  expect  some  future  reward  for  every  cracker  they  ever 
fired.  I asked  where  their  idols  were,  as  I saw  none  in  the 
temple  except  the  tigress,  and  they  said,  “ If  2fem  wants 
to  worship  we  invite  you  into  another  room.”  My  jolly 
Chinaman  had  left  me  to  go  and  prepare  some  tea,  and  as 
there  were  others  in  the  temple  I found  oirt  all  I desired  to 
know.  On  my  way  to  the  shrine  I passed  the  little  char- 
coal furnace  where  he  sat  with  his  bellows  trying  his  best 
to  make  the  water  boil.  The  shrine  was  a little  place,  per- 
haps eight  feet  square  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  curtains. 
Inside  was  an  altar,  upon  which  were  placed  five  or  six  Chi- 
nese images,  none  of  Buddlia,  and  round  about  were  little 
trays  for  flowers  and  fniit,  and  a candle  in  a candlestick. 
In  front  of  the  altar  was  a high  table  with  a glass  lantern 
upon  it,  and  an  oil  lamp  burning  inside  which  they  refill 
and  watch  with  jealous  care  lest  it  go  out ; also  a dish  of 
sand  for  incense-sticks.  On  the  altar  were  some  Chinese 
books  and  a plate  of  bananas.  I asked  about  the  books, 
and  they  said  the  priest  in  his  ministry  read  from  them 
every  night  and  morning  before  the  idols.  I espied  a large 
mirror  there  too,  but  they  hastened  to  tell  me  it  did  not 
belong  there,  but  they  had  no  other  good  place  to  put  it. 
I asked  them  why  they  worshipped  idols,  and  if  they  ever 
did  them  any  good?  The  only  reply  I received  was  the 
common,  thoughtless  one  of  all  Asia : “ It  is  om*  custom. 
Our  fathers  and  mothers  did  so,  and  we  keep  it  up.”  They 
averred  that  the  idols  helped  them,  although  they  laughed 
at  the  idea,  when  I said,  “ Can  they  see,  or  hear,  oi’  speak, 
or  walk  ? ” After  this  tea  was  ready  and  I was  in^■ited  to 


25i 


SIAM. 


partake.  It  was  served  on  a little  table  in  dainty  china 
cups.  They  gave  me  a little  roxmd  stool  to  sit  upon,  and 
filled  for  me  five  cups  of  tea.  There  was  one  large  cup  in 
the  centre  and  four  little  ones  round  it  like  children.  I 
drank  two  cups,  talking  meanwhile  to  the  people,  who  had 
gathered  in  to  see  the  “ foreigner,”  then  rose  to  leave.  ^ly 
back  was  hardly  turned  when  an  indolent  Siamese  who  had 
been  lolling  there  got  up,  and  said,  “ I’ll  play  I’m  Jfe?n, 
and  drink  some  tea  too,”  and  he  proceeded  to  help  himself 
without  being  invited,  while  the  by-standers  aU  laughed. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


THE  EOTAL  CAVE,  PETCHABTTEEE. 

The  morning  was  bright  with  sunshine,  the  ah'  cool  and 
refreshing.  We  could  not  have  found  a pleasanter  day  to 
visit  the  cave,  which  is  about  two  miles  back  from  the 
river  among  the  mountains.  We  had  one  jinriktsha  and 
two  men.  They  were  to  take  turns  in  drawing  the  com- 
fortable little  carriage,  and  as  it  is  the  only  one  in  the  city, 
we  two  ladies  had  to  take  turns  in  riding.  We  carried  a 
lunch  with  us  and  our  sketch-books,  for  there  are  many 
picturesque  views  among  the  hills,  and  even  down  in  the 
cave. 

We  passed  companies  of  market-women  returning  from 
the  city,  where  they  had  traded  their  pots  of  palm  sugar 
for  fish,  tobacco,  betel  leaves,  matches,  and  empty  sugar- 
pots.  We  met  some  of  the  Laos  women  who  live  in  the 
villages  beyond  the  mountains.  They  were  all  dressed  alike 
with  black  jackets  and  scarfs,  and  blue  and  white  striped 
skirts,  and  had  their  long  black  hair  tied  in  a large  bow- 
knot  on  the  top  of  their  heads.  They  carried  curious 
pocket-shaped  baskets  in  which  were  chickens,  glutinous 
rice,  or  home-made  cloth  for  the  market. 

The  fields  of  rice  on  either  side  of  the  road  were  ripen- 
ing for  the  harvest,  and  now  and  then  we  saw  the  tattered 
garments  of  the  “ scarecrows  ” fiuttering  in  the  wind.  For 
many  mornings  past  we  had  heard  the  natives  screaming 
and  swearing  at  the  birds  before  we  were  ready  to  get  up. 
About  half-way  to  the  cave  a company  of  little  children 
came  running  across  the  rice-fields,  and  invited  us  to  their 

(255) 


256 


SIAM. 


house  to  eat  “ Cow-mow.”  It  is  the  new  rice  roasted  and 
pounded,  and  if  eaten  with  salt  tastes  very  good.  As  they 
came  near  I noticed  that  four  of  them  were  pupils  fi'om 
our  schools.  AVe  could  not  accept  their  kiud  invitation, 
but  hurried  on. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  cave  we  found  some  curious  rocks, 
and  succeeded  in  breaking  oil  seA'eral  good  specimeus. 
They  show  decided  volcanic  action,  and  appear  to  have 
been  fused  in  a molten,  bubbling  state.  In  the  cave  are 
the  greatest  wonders.  There  are  several  chambers,  but 
the  first  one,  if  you  enter  properly  by  the  royal  steps,  is 
the  largest,  the  longest,  and  the  loftiest.  It  is  perhaps  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long  and  sixty  feet  wide.  The  rocky 
walls  arch  over  dome-like  and  solemn.  At  the  apex  there 
is  an  irregular  opening  through  Avhich  the  sun  shines  clear 
and  bright,  and  looking  up  we  could  see  the  white  clouds 
floating  lazily  by.  Bushes  and  shrubs  grow  about  the  edges, 
vines  clamber  down  the  rough  sides,  and  delicate  mosses, 
ferns,  and  wild  flowers  cling  to  the  overhanging  rocks; 
while  some  great  brown  roots  have  scrambled  doAvn,  down 
till  they  have  reached  the  very  foot  of  the  cave.  Pretty, 
bright-eyed  doves  have  made  their  nests  near  by,  and  they 
sit  plmning  themselves  on  the  ledges,  and  looking  at  us 
sideAAuse  with  eyes  full  of  wonder,  and  then  at  a given  signal 
they  will  all  fly  off  together  with  a great  whirr  and  rush 
that  echoes  and  re-echoes  through  the  dark,  gloomy  recesses. 

There  are  many  graceful  stalactites  depending  from  the 
vaulted  roof,  but  the  stalagmites  Avhich  could  climb  up  to 
meet  them  have  all  been  removed,  and  the  floor  of  the  cave 
leveled  and  paved  with  large  red  tiles,  and  there  is  a wall 
of  masonry  with  an  arched  doorway  leading  into  a smaller 
room  paved  with  ordinary  bi'icks.  All  round  about  are 
arranged  shelves  and  ledges  that  are  set  full  of  little  im- 
ages of  Buddha,  and  in  little  niches  and  holes  in  the  ceil- 
ing these  vacant-looking,  lifeless  gods  peer  out  at  us.  Aot 


THE  ROYAL  CAVE,  PETCHABUREE. 


257 


a sound  is  heard  but  the  dropping  of  the  water  or  the 
rustle  of  falling  leaves.  hTow  and  then  we  hear  the  screech- 
ing of  bats  and  are  reminded  of  the  old  prophecy,  and  hope 
the  time  will  soon  come  for  its  fulfilment. 

There  are  many  dark  passages  and  winding  ways  lead- 
ing off  from  these  larger  spaces,  and  the  walls  of  the  cave 
are  full  of  little  chambers  and  alcoves,  and  there  are  ledges 
of  rock  jutting  out,  and  little  pinnacles,  each  one  crowned 
with  an  idol.  The  school-boys  once  counted  one  hundi’ed 
and  eighty-two,  but  I think  there  must  be  many  more. 
One  is  a large  reclining  image  having  a low  brick  railing 
in  front  of  it,  and  the  gate-posts  are  ornamented  with  plas- 
ter lions,  with  their  heads  turned  and  their  fierce  mouths 
wide  open.  Before  another  large  idol  crouched  a great 
gilt  elephant  offering  to  Buddha  a cup  of  water,  which  it 
held  aloft  in  its  trunk,  and  a monkey  also  sat  with  its  fore- 
paws clasped  in  holy  adoration.  These  figures  are  to  per- 
petuate the  old  legend  of  Buddha,  that  when  he  retired  to 
the  forests  as  a hermit  even  the  beasts  recognized  his  holi- 
ness and  power,  and  came  to  minister  unto  him.  There 
are  some  Chinese  inscriptions  on  the  walls,  and  when  some 
friends  of  ours  from  China  were  here,  they  translated  some 
for  us.  One  was,  “ The  light  of  Buddha  still  shines 
another,  “ This  life  is  regulated  by  a former  existence,  but 
the  conditions  of  the  next  or  future  life  depend  on  the 
preparations  of  the  present.”  The  latter  part  of  this  wise 
saying  is  very  orthodox,  and  I only  wish  the  heathen  would 
profit  by  it. 

There  are  httle  pocket  editions  of  Buddha  lying  round 
loose.  Is  early  all  the  gods  were  undergoing  repairs.  They 
were  covered  with  a coat  of  black  lacquer,  preparatory 
to  being  regilded.  There  are  little  tablets  on  many  of 
the  images,  telling  who  made  them,  that  the  right  hand 
may  know  what  the  left  has  done,  and  some  bear  inscrip- 
tions of  praise  to  Buddha  for  his  wisdom  and  merit. 


258 


SIAM. 


In  wanderinof  about  I found  several  hideous  figures  of 

o o 

dead  bodies,  and  some  of  men,  vbo,  as  hermits,  have 
been  lost  in  meditation  until  their  forms  are  all  wasted  to 
a skeleton.  Perhaps  quite  near  by  these  wretched,  starved 
hermits  you  will  see  a jolly,  fat,  laughing  figure  that 
looks  for  all  the  world  as  though  it  took  things  easy  and 
always  intended  to. 

Drops  of  clear,  cool  water  are  continually  falling  upon 
the  paved  floor.  A circular  fountain  has  been  prepai’ed  to 
receive  them  at  one  place,  and  I have  often  seen  it  brim- 
ming full.  The  half  of  a -cocoanut-shell  floats  on  the  top 
as  a drinking-cup,  and  Ipng  on  the  edge  of  the  fount  are 
some  large,  glossy  green  leaves  which  we  brought  to  use 
instead  of  this  too  common  cup. 

Since  we  entered  four  other  companies  have  come  to 
visit  the  cave  this  morning.  The  first  were  Chinamen 
from  Singapore,  with  two  or  three  Malay  servants.  They 
were  all  very  devout,  and  prostrated  themselves  before  all 
the  larger  idols,  and  burned  incense  and  a great  pile  of 
gold  and  silver  paper  money.  It  is  thus  they  hope  to  send 
help  to  their  dead  friends.  They  then  crowded  about  us  to 
see  what  we  were  doing.  I was  sitting  at  the  base  of  a 
pagoda  which  towered  high  above  my  head,  and  held  four 
images  of  the  Buddha.  By  my  side  was  my  sketch-book, 
in  which  I had  been  both  writing  and  drawing.  In  my 
hands  I had  a bit  of  canvas  work,  a cluster  of  purple 
grapes  with  green  leaves.  We  try  at  all  times  and  places 
to  teach  this  people  to  work,  and  so  one  of  the  flrst  remarks 
these  men  made  was,  “ They  came  for  pleasure,  yet  brought 
their  work  along ! ” We  let  them  look  at  it,  and  told 
them  what  it  was  for.  And  then  I tried  to  tell  them  of  a 
better  God  than  the  idols  by  which  they  had  knelt.  I dis 
covered  that  one  of  them  could  read  Siamese,  and  when 
they  took  their  leave  I asked  them  to  stop  at  jinrikislia 
outside  and  get  a book  from  the  servant. 


THE  ROYAL  CAVE,  PETCHABUREE. 


259 


After  them  came  a band  of  Siamese,  who  wandered 
about  in  their  careless,  indolent  fashion.  They  brought  no 
offerings,  and  we  only  saw  one  old  woman  who  worshipped 
tbe  idols.  They  were  more  intent  on  looking  about  them, 
resting  after  their  warm  walk,  and  drinking  at  the  foun- 
tain, than  in  merit-making.  They  were  a baud  of  travel- 
ling players  who  came  into  the  city  from  the  gardens. 
Not  one  of  the  women  could  read,  and  e\ddently  foreigners 
are  a rare  sight  to  them,  for  we  heard  two  of  them  discuss- 
ing whether  we  were  men  or  women,  and  finally  they  con- 
cluded we  were  men,  despite  our  long  hair,  dresses,  and 
needlework.  It  is  a constant  wonder  to  the  natives  that 
we  are  not  afraid  to  go  about  alone,  and  that  we  do  not 
have  a train  of  servants  following  after  to  carry  our  things, 
to  wait  upon  us,  and  to  show  what  great  folks  we  are. 

The  next  visitors  were  Siamese  men.  One  had  a gim 
and  two  others  carried  swords.  We  think  they  had  been 
out  hunting,  for  there  was  no  look  of  the  brave  soldier 
about  them.  They  were  full  of  wonderment  at  what  they 
saw,  hut  manifested  no  reverence.  They  went  quickly 
from  room  to  room,  busy  telling  how  things  had  changed 
since  they  were  in  the  cave  the  last  time. 

We  lunched  in  the  great  hall,  and  after  our  dessert  of 
bananas  and  oranges,  we  had  a drink  from  the  fountain. 
We  have  made  many  visits  to  this  Eoyal  Cave. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


DKIXKING  THE  WATER  OF  ALLEGIANCE. 

One  year  in  April  we  went  np  to  the  “ Mountain  of  the 
Highest  Heaven”  to  see  the  governor  and  other  noblemen 
of  Petchahnree  drink  the  water  of  allegiance  to  their  king. 
It  was  a very  pretty  ceremony,  and  one  that  we  had  never 
seen  before. 

The  people  were  gathered  in  the  king’s  large  audience- 
hall,  which  had  been  prepared  for  the  occasion.  The  doors 
had  all  been  thrown  wide  open,  and  as  we  ascended  the 
stone  steps  the  governor  saw  us  and  invited  us  to  sit  on  his 
mat.  It  was  the  place  of  greatest  honor  in  the  hall,  and 
there  being  no  chairs  we  accepted  the  invitation  and  sat 
down  in  real  Oriental  fashion  on  a lovely  Turkish  mat.  To 
our  left  was  the  governor’s  son,  and  beyond  him  other  no- 
bles and  officers  accordino;  to  rank.  The  governor  had  two 
of  his  little  daughters  with  him.  They  were  dressed  in 
foreign  style,  and  one  of  them  even  had  shoes  and  stockings 
on,  but  the  elder  one  had  bare  hmhs  and  golden  anklets. 
He  was  very  kind  and  polite  to  us,  explaining  the  different 
parts  of  the  ceremony  and  answering  questions.  Before 
him  was  an  elegant  array  of  costly  vessels  and  trays,  such 
as  the  king  presents  to  those  who  are  entitled  to  the  honor. 
They  are  sure  tokens  of  rank  and  royal  favor.  I think 
there  were  eleven  pieces  and  all  pure  gold.  There  was  a 
teapot,  a water-goblet  and  plate,  betel-trays,  tobacco-boxes, 
and  cigar-cases.  All  were  of  the  most  curious  workman- 
ship.  The  teapot  was  specially  beautiful.  It  was  covered 
with  figures  of  Chinamen  and  their  curious  little  houses 
(260) 


DRINKING  THE  WA  TER  OF  ALLEGIANCE.  261 


and  pagodas,  intermingled  with  trees,  flowers,  and  birds, 
showing  plainly  that  if  the  work  was  not  done  in  China, 
the  style  at  least  was  borrowed  from  the  Celestials.  The 
governor’s  son  had  a set  of  black  ware,  with  flowers  in  gold- 
leaf  ; and  the  Pra  Palaht,  or  lieutenant-governor,  next  to 
him,  but  ranking  higher,  had  a golden  set  that  rivalled 
those  of  the  governor  himself.  I was  surprised  to  see  that 
there  were  no  gold  cups  for  tea.  The  Pra  Palaht  had  an 
ordinary  china  teacup,  with  a handle  on  one  side  and  his 
monogram  on  the  other,  while  the  governor  had  a little 
bine  china  dish.  They  gave  us  tea  to  drink,  and  would 
wilhugly  have  supplied  us  with  betel  and  cigarettes  had 
they  not  known  we  would  decline  the  generous  offer. 

The  governor  wore  his  regular  court  suit,  consisting  of  a 
purple  silk  waist-cloth,  a white  shirt  and  coat,  a golden  gir- 
dle or  belt,  white  stockings  extending  above  his  knees,  and 
black  shoes.  It  is  a very  simple  and  comfortable  dress. 
He  had  the  king’s  portrait  in  a golden  locket  tied  about 
his  neck  with  a pink  ribbon,  a gold  star  set  with  jewels  on 
his  right  breast,  and  a silver  medal  on  his  left.  The  silver 
medal  he  received  at  Calcutta  when  Queen  Victoria  was 
l^roclaimed  Empress  of  India.  It  has  her  likeness  and  new 
title  on  one  side,  and  an  Indian  inscription  on  the  other, 
which  we  could  not  read,  and  the  English  date  “ Jan.  1st, 
1877.”  lie  had  a white  round-crowned  hat,  surmounted 
by  a golden  pagoda,  of  which  he  seemed  specially  proud, 
judging  liy  the  way  he  lifted  it  and  tenderly  turned  it  round 
and  round,  and  Anally  placed  it  directly  in  front  of  us. 

lYliat  the  very  beginning  of  the  ceremony  was  we  do 
not  know,  for  we  arrived  too  late  to  see.  But  the  first 
thing  we  noticed  was  the  feeding  of  priests.  There  were 
six  of  them  in  their  sacred  yellow  robes  sitting  opposite  us, 
with  great  trays  piled  with  food,  from  which  they  were 
helping  themselves,  in  a not  very  dainty  way,  with  their 
fingers.  And  although  they  consider  it  a sin  for  a Buddhist 


262 


S/AM. 


priest  to  look  at  a ■woman,  tliey  ■watcked  ns  a great  deal 
more,  I tliink,  than  we  did  them. 

The  king’s  throne  at  one  end  of  the  hall  was  occupied 
by  a large  idol,  a golden  image  of  Buddha.  Before  it  were 
arranged  flowers,  offerings,  lighted  candles,  and  smoking 
incense-sticks ; while  in  the  very  front  was  a large  brazen 
urn  holding  four  or  five  gallons  of  water,  and  by  its  side  a 
gun,  a spear,  and  three  swords.  When  the  priests  had 
finished  their  breakfast,  for  all  this  was  in  the  early  morn- 
ing, a ball  of  unspun  cotton  string  was  attached  to  the  idol 
and  then  carried  to  the  priests,  who,  allowing  the  cord  to 
pass  through  both  their  hands,  sat  holding  it  thus  while 
they  prayed  at  intervals.  A young  man  stepped  to  the 
centre  of  the  hall,  and  kneeling  before  the  idol,  opened  one 
of  those  strange  folding  books  and  began  to  read  the  oaths 
of  allegiance.*  They  were  tnily  fearful,  and  I whis]Dercd 
to  my  nearest  neighbor  that  if  we  believed  the  evil  spirits, 
to  which  they  appealed,  had  the  power  attributed  to  them, 
we  would  never  dare  take  such  an  oath.  After  the  read- 
ing of  each  part  the  priests  would  pray,  the  nobles  bow 
their  heads  in  assent,  and  with  clasped  hands  worship  the 
idol. 

When  all  had  taken  the  oath  three  men  came  forward, 
and  as  they  bowed  to  the  idol,  two  others  who  sat  near  an 
open  door  began  to  blow  large  conch-shells.  I had  not  no- 
ticed these  men  before,  and  the  strange,  weird  sound  they 
produced  "ndth  the  shells  startled  me.  They  were  fine-look- 
ing young  men,  'without  the  least  shadow  of  beard  or  mus- 
tache. They  were  both  dressed  in  white  robes,  and  had 
their  long,  heavy  black  hair  twisted  up  like  a woman’s. 
One  of  the  three  men  bo'wing  to  the  idol  belonged  to  the 
same  race.  They  are  what  the  Siamese  call  “ Mons.”  I 


* A translation  will  be  found  in  the  chapter  on  Siam’s  Re- 
ligion. 


DRINKING  THE  WA  TER  OF  ALLEGIANCE.  263 


liave  since  been  told  that  these  “ Mons  ” always  take  part 
in  the  religious  ceremonies  connected  with  the  king, 
although  they  themselves  are  Brahmins.  There  are  nu- 
merous settlements  of  them  in  Siam  now,  and  the  French 
Jesuits  claim  many  of  them  as  converts  to  their  faith. 

The  three  men  before  the  idol  now’  arose.  Two  of  them 
were  Siamese,  and  they  stood  one  on  either  side  of  the 
brazen  vessel  filled  with  water.  The  man  at  the  right  un- 
sheathed the  swords  one  by  one,  and  handed  them  to  the 
“ Mon,”  who  dipped  each  one  into  the  water  three  times, 
and  then  passed  it  to  the  Siamese  on  the  left,  who  wdped  the 
blades  and  put  them  back  into  their  scabbards.  The  spear 
and  the  gun  were  likewise  dipped  into  the  water.  This 
dipping  of  these  weapons  into  the  water  has  a peculiar  sig- 
nificance. It  implies  that  those  who  have  taken  the  oath 
will  die  by  these  tokens  of  the  king’s  power  if  they  rebel 
against  him.  All  this  time  the  shells  were  sounding,  the 
priests  chanting,  and  the  people  clasping  their  hands  to  the 
idol.  Then  the  “ Mon  ” took  a golden  basin  from  the  gov- 
ernor’s mat  and  brought  him  some  of  the  water.  He  also 
gave  to  the  son  and  two  or  three  others.  Beginning  with 
the  governor,  they  all  stood  up,  bowed  to  the  idol  and  then 
to  the  king,  in  the  direction  of  Bangkok.  They  drank  a 
mouthful  of  the  water,  and  with  the  rest  they  sprinkled 
their  heads  and  washed  their  hands.  After  the  higher 
nobles  w’ere  served  the  brazen  urn  was  carried  to  the  rear 
of  the  hall,  and  the  petty  officers  allowed  to  help  them- 
selves. It  was  amusing  to  see  them  crowd  around  and  dip 
with  all  sorts  of  vessels — one  with  a teapot,  another  with  a 
cocoanut-shell. 

So  they  drank,  and  sprinkled  and  washed  with  the  ^va- 
ter  of  allegiance,  and  in  great  confusion  the  assembly  broke 
up,  and  each  one  started  for  his  own  home,  leaving  every- 
thing to  be  gathered  up  by  the  servants.  As  we  passed  out 
I could  not  refrain  from  saying  to  the  governor,  “ Not- 


SIAM. 


2Gi 

Tvitlistanding  all  tliis  the  subjects  often  rebel  against  their 
king.”  “Yes,”  said  he,  “ but  they  always  have  to  submit 
at  last.”  “Kot  according  to  your  Siamese  histories,”  I 
added,  “ for  they  tell  of  many  a king  cast  down  and  an- 
other set  up  on  the  royal  tkrone.”  At  this  he  was  silent 
and  so  was  I. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SLEEPING  EDOL. 

On  the  side  of  Palace  Mountain  at  Petcliaburee  there  is 
an  old  temple,  and  in  it  lies  sleeping  one  of  the  largest 
Buddhas  in  the  world.  The  great  reclining  image  in  Bang- 
kok measures  more  feet  in  length,  but  the  body  is  not  so 
large.  The  one  in  the  capital  is  more  costly  too,  the  soles 
of  the  monstrous  feet  being  inlaid  with  pearl  and  chased 
with  gold,  and  traced  from  heel  to  toe  with  mystic  circles 
and  symbols,  and  the  toe-nails  inscribed  with  the  supposed 
attributes  of  the  man  the  image  represents. 

The  one  here  I hav’e  seen  many  times.  It  is  built  of 
brick  and  mortar,  then  plastered  smoothly,  covered  with 
lacquer,  and  lastly  with  gilt,  so  that  it  looks  hke  a golden 
image.  It  reclines  upon  its  right  side  with  the  feet  lying 
one  upon  the  other  so  the  great  toes  touch.  The  right  arm 
is  folded  under  the  head  and  is  supported  by  several  im- 
mense pillows.  The  left  arm  lies  straight  along  the  body. 
The  ears  droop  to  the  shoulders.  When  the  fingers  and 
toes  of  a child  are  all  the  same  length,  and  its  ears  come 
down  to  the  shoulders,  they  know  that  another  Buddha  has 
been  born  into  the  world.  But  no  one  has  ever  seen  such 
a child ! 

This  idol’s  eyes  are  made  of  black  lacquer  and  mother- 
of-pearl.  They  are  only  partially  closed,  but  they  have  a 
dreamy,  far-away  look  in  them,  as  though  forgetting  the 
past,  or  tr}fing  to  peer  into  the  future.  There  is  not  a 
shadow  of  interest  in  the  present  with  its  living,  throbbing, 
8uHering,  dying  humanity.  It  is  a fit  emblem  of  all  dead 
12  (365) 


206 


SIAAf. 


gods  tliat  gaze  with  stony  indiiTerenee  upon  the  woes  of 
their  worshippers.  The  features  are  regular  and  not  un- 
pleasant, with  a Idnt  of  Ethiopia  about  the  full  lips,  and 
the  hair.  The  head  is  covered  with  locks  of  gilded  hair, 
coiled  up  like  little  straw  beehives.  I found  on  close  ex- 
amination that  they  are  made  of  clay  and  baked.  They  are 
hollow  inside  and  are  stuck  on  the  head  with  plaster. 
There  are  hundreds  of  them  on  his  pate,  and  the  head  is  so 
large  that  it  requires  pillows  thirty-four  feet  high  to  rest 
upon.  By  actual  measurement  the  circumference  of  one  of 
these  locks  of  hair  is  seventeen  inches.  The  soles  of  the 
feet  are  not  gilt  like  the  rest  of  the  body,  but  red,  and  filled 
with  black  figures  of  dragons,  fish,  pagodas,  umbrellas, 
lotus-lilies,  Buddhas,  turtles,  fans,  temples,  and  many  other 
curious  things  we  could  not  make  out.  In  the  centre  of 
each  sole  is  a large  star. 

Our  old  native  teacher  says  that  when  the  last  Buddha, 
that  is  Guatama,  was  born,  he  had  one  hundred  and  eight 
distinct  marks  and  figures  on  the  soles  of  his  feet.  The 
feet  of  this  idol  are  peculiar  in  several  respects.  The  toes 
are  all  the  same  size  in  length  and  width,  the  heel  round 
and  the  sides  perfectly  straight  and  parallel.  The  sole  is  fiat. 

The  Peguins  living  in  Siam,  make  yearly  pilgrimages  to 
this  idol,  and  the  women  used  to  anoint  the  feet  with  per- 
fume and  fragrant  oil,  and  then  wipe  them  with  their  long, 
beautiful  hair,  singing  and  chanting  meanwhile  in  a solemn, 
earnest  manner.  The  Siamese  made  so  much  sport  of  them 
that  the  anointing  has  been  abandoned.  But  can  we  not 
see  in  this  traces  of  Mary  with  her  alabaster  box  of  precious 
ointment,  very  costly,  and  the  woman  that  was  a sinner 
bathing  the  Saviour’s  feet  with  her  tears  and  wiping  them 
with  her  hair?  Verily  these  are  of  the  nations  who  have 
forgotten  God,  because  they  did  not  want  to  retain  Him  in 
their  knowledge,  and  so  He  has  given  them  over  to  believe 
a lie. 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SLEEPING  IDOL.  2G7 


We  asked  some  priests  tlie  age  of  tins  image  and  wliat  it 
cost.  They  said  : “ This  sacred  person  was  made  long  ago, 
and  if  you  wish  to  know  the  cost,  build  one  and  see.”  They 
really  know  very  little  about  it,  and  have  not  curiosity 
enough  to  inform  themselves.  I think  they  must  have 
made  the  idol  and  then  built  the  temple  over  it.  The 
walls,  as  usual,  are  of  brick,  plastered  inside  and  out,  and 
when  finished  they  were  left  white  and  clean.  Now  they 
are  defaced  with  cartoons  and  rude  charcoal  sketches.  The 
floor  is  made  of  cement,  and  must  feel  very  cool  and  grate- 
ful to  the  hot,  weary  feet  of  the  devotees  as  they  come  in 
from  the  hot  sun  to  rest  and  worship.  There  is  a row  of 
lofty  plastered  pillars  running  down  the  centre  to  sirpjoort 
the  roof.  The  idol  lies  on  one  side  next  the  wall.  This 
leaves  space  before  it  for  the  pillars  and  the  people  to 
stand.  The  roof  was  once  covered  with  tiles,  but  it  is  so 
broken  now  that  the  sky  can  be  seen  through  the  opening, 
and  the  hole  serves  as  a door  for  the  doves,  which  seem  to 
have  taken  possession  of  all  the  rafters,  which  are  exposed 
to  full  view. 

There  are  three  wooden  doors  and  several  windows. 
The  idol  is  enveloped  in  cloths  that  have  been  devoted  by 
persons  wishing  to  make  merit.  I do  not  mean  all  covered, 
for  the  head  and  shoulders  and  feet  stick  out.  These  cloths 
do  not  appear  ever  to  be  removed.  The  new  one  is  placed 
upon  the  old  rags  and  tatters.  The  last  time  I was  there  I 
saw  the  remains  of  a red  and  yellow  one  showing  beneath 
one  of  pure  white  with  gilt  paper  flowers  pasted  all  over  it. 
Tradition  says  there  used  to  be  a door  in  the  back  of  this 
idol,  and  a room  inside.  But  I have  never  seen  any  trace 
of  it. 

When  a friend  from  China  was  here,  by  her  suggested 
)neasurement  our  height  when  standing  by  the  feet  was 
just  equal  to  the  width  of  four  toes,  beginning  at  the  so- 
called  little  toe  and  counting  up,  and  my  upstrctched  arm 


268 


S/AM. 


only  allowed  my  fingers  to  toucli  tlie  middle  of  tlie  fifth 
toe.  But  we  took  a tape  measure  one  day  and  secured 
more  exact  figures.  Here  they  are : Whole  length  of  the 
image,  145  feet ; length  of  ears,  14  feet  2 inches ; sht  for 
earring,  4 feet ; width  of  ear  across  the  top,  3 feet  6 inches ; 
width  of  ear  lower  lobe,  2 feet;  arm  from  shoulder  to 
elbow,  30  feet ; elbow  to  end  of  finger,  46  feet ; across 
the  neck,  18  feet ; length  of  leg,  63  feet ; length  of  body 
and  head,  82  feet ; length  of  feet,  17  feet  8 inches ; length 
of  toes,  4 feet  4 inches ; length  of  toe-nails,  17  inches ; 
width  of  foot,  7 feet  4 inches;  width  of  toes,  1 foot  7 
inches;  width  of  toe-nails,  14  inches;  height  of  pillows, 
34  feet. 


CHAPTEE  XXXI. 


LOTUS-LILIES. 

The  delicate  fragrance  of  a lotus  wliicli  was  gathered 
yesterday  from  the  lily-pond  of  a neighboring  Buddhist 
monastery,  fills  my  room  as  I begin  to  write  of  this  peer- 
less fiower  of  Farther  India.  It  bends  gracefully  over  the 
rim  of  the  glass  vase  holding  the  fountain  of  “heaven 
water”  from  which  it  draws  refreshment.  Its  petals  are 
rose-pink,  growing  brighter  and  redder  toward  the  tips, 
where  one  can  almost  imagine  the  life-blood  of  the  flower 
is  oozing  out  and  will  soon  drop  upon  the  white  mat  of 
the  table.  Opening  the  rosy  lips,  the  golden  heart  of  the 
flower  is  disclosed  surrounded  by  a silky  fringe  of  stamens 
of  the  same  bright  hue,  edged  with  pure  white  pollen. 
The  leaves  of  the  plant  are  dark  green,  almost  round  and 
lie  or  float  upon  the  bosom  of  the  lake.  The  stems  are  like 
long  green  serpents  rearing  their  spiral  forms  from  the 
black  ooze  beneath  the  water,  and  holding  aloft  theii-  ban- 
ners of  green,  and  blossoms  of  beauty  and  fragrance. 

“ It  is  a kind  of  water-lily,  and  is  considered  a won- 
derful flower  by  the  people  of  the  countries  in  which  it 
is  found.  In  Egypt  it  was  formerly  sacred  to  the  gods 
Osiris  and  Isis,  and  signified  the  creation  of  the  world. 
In  India  the  Hindoo  deities  of  the  different  sects  are 
often  represented  seated  on  a throne  of  this  shape,  or 
on  the  expanded  flower.  Its  color  in  Southern  India 
is  white  or  red ; the  latter  color  is  fabled  to  be  derived 
from  the  blood  of  their  god  Siva  when  Kamadeva,  or 
Cupid,  wounded  him  with  the  love  arrow.”  It  symbol- 

(2G9) 


270 


SIAM. 


izes  tlie  world,  the  ineru.,  or  residence  of  the  gods,  and 
female  beauty.  In  China  and  Japan  the  lotus  seems  to  be 
specially  connected  with  Buddha,  and  has  a large  place  in 
the  worship  of  that  god.  In  the  former  country  it  also 
symbolizes  womanly  beauty,  the  small  feet  of  the  women 
being  called  “ Mn  leen,^^  or  golden  lilies.  They  imagine  it, 
moreover,  to  have  great  power  over  the  souls  of  the  de- 
ceased. The  Buddhist  priests  represent  the  dead  as  suffer- 
ing tortures  of  various  kinds,  and  ask  large  offerings  of 
the  surviving  friends  for  the  purpose  of  inducing  Kucan- 
yin,  the  goddess  of  mercy,  to  cast  the  lotus  upon  the  suffer- 
ers, and  thus  end  their  punishment.  I have  seen  this  idea 
illustrated  in  a copy  of  a rude  drawing,  taken,  I think,  from 
a temple  wall.  The  sinner  was  lying  on  the  floor  of  hell 
and  the  tormentor  was  about  to  crush  him  with  a huge 
stamp  worked  by  the  hands  and  feet  and  resembling  an  in- 
strument the  Siamese  use  to  hull  rice.  The  victim’s  hands 
were  clasped  in  adoration  and  the  face  turned  in  speechless 
agony  toward  the  goddess  of  mercy,  who  occupied  the 
upper  right-hand  corner  of  the  picture.  Her  oblique  eyes 
were  turned  down  vnth  a gentle  droop,  and  in  pity  she  let 
fall  a lotus  from  her  outstretched  hand  upon  the  sufferer. 

But  notwithstanding  the  sacredness  in  which  the  plant 
is  held,  and  the  fables  and  superstitions  which  are  asso- 
ciated with  it,  many  of  the  Chinese  largely  cultivate  it. 
Tlie  fragrant  blossoms  reach  a diameter  of  ten  inches,  and 
find  a ready  sale.  The  seeds  are  cooked  in  various  ways, 
sometimes  ground  and  made  into  cakes ; they  are  also  eaten 
raw  ; the  fleshy  stems  supply  a popular  nourishing  vegeta- 
ble ; while  the  fibres  of  the  leaf-stalks  serve  for  lamp-wicks. 
The  ancient  Egyptians  also  cultivated  the  lotus  in  the 
waters  of  the  Xile,  the  beans,  the  stems,  and  even  the 
roots  being  extensively  used  for  food.  The  seeds  were 
enclosed  in  balls  of  clay  or  mud,  mixed  with  chopped 
straw,  and  cast  into  the  Xile.  In  due  season  the  plant 


LOTUS-LILIES. 


271 


appeared,  followed  by  buds,  flowers,  and  seeds.  From  this 
practice  tbe  inspired  wi-iter  enforces  tlie  duty  of  self-deny- 
ing zeal  and  faith — “ Cast  thy  bread  upon  the  waters,  for 
thou  shalt  find  it  after  many  days.” 

In  Siam  the  lotus-hlies  grow  in  the  greatest  profusion, 
both  white  and  pink.  Indeed,  on  my  way  from  Bangkok,  I 
have  sometimes  sailed  for  miles  in  my  boat  through  flooded 
fields  covered  with  the  lovely  white  lotus,  which  the  natives 
were  busy  gathering  for  the  mai’kets.  I could  not  smother 
a feehng  of  pity  for  the  delicate  beauties  torn  so  rudely 
from  their  watery  home,  and  thrown  like  any  other  vege- 
table into  the  bottom  of  the  boat. 

The  royal  lotus  gardens  of  Bangkok  are  several  miles 
from  tlie  palace  of  the  king.  There  is  a good  carriage  road 
leading  from  the  city,  and  it  is  also  a pleasant  row  by  river 
and  canal.  There  are  beautiful  temples  and  a palace  there, 
which  we  hear  is  being  prepared  for  the  future  home  of 
the  heir-apparent.  The  Duke  of  Mecklenburg  was  enter- 
tained in  the  lotus  garden  palace  during  his  visit  to  the 
King  of  Siam.  It  is  one  of  the  most  healthful  and  breezy 
sites  in  the  city,  and  a favorite  resort  for  picnics.  I have 
enjoyed  more  than  one  pleasant  party  there.  Dinner  never 
tastes  better  than  when  we  eat  it  beside  the  lakes  where 
the  lotus-lilies  float  in  happy  idleness.  One  day  we  found 
a new  variety,  larger  than  the  pink  ones,  and  pure  white, 
with  an  inner  row  of  petals  crimped  and  fluted  and  tinged 
with  delicate  sea-green.  The  heart  was  golden  like  the 
others,  but  it  had  no  fragrance.  We  gathered  fresh  seed- 
pods  and  ate  the  kernels.  They  are  rich  and  sweet,  with 
the  flavor  of  chestnuts,  but  I doubt  if  one  of  us  remem- 
bered Tennyson’s  “ Lotus-eaters,”  although  we  had 

— “ come  into  a land 
In  which  it  seemed  always  afternoon — 

A land  where  all  things  always  seemed  the  same.  ’’ 


272 


SIAM. 


Even  the  idle,  yellow-robed  priests  about  the  Buddhist 
teuijjles  on  the  lake  shore 

— “ deep  asleep  they  seemed,  yet  all  awake,” 

while  their  gods,  the  sleepy  Buddhas,  sit  in  all  the  temples 
with  ever  open  palm,  always  upturned,  and  ready  to  receive, 
but  giving  nothing  to  the  worshippers,  though  they  fill 
their  hands  with  lotus-lihes  as  a sure  passport  to  Nirvana ! 

How  many  a wretched,  sinful  soul  would  buy  forgetful- 
ness if  it  could  be  purchased  at  such  a price,  and  what 
myriads  there  are  who  never  could  purchase  it  even  at  so 
cheap  a rate,  for  lotus-lilies  do  not  grow  all  the  world 
around,  and  millions  live  and  die  never  having  heard  of 
the  blessed  flower,  which,  according  to  Buddhism,  has  such 
wonderful  virtue.  It  is  interwoven  with  all  their  religious 
rites  and  ceremonies,  and  there  is  scarcely  a legend  in 
which  you  cannot  catch  the  flutter  of  their  pink  petals,  or 
detect  their  delicate  fragrance.  It  is  said  that  “ when  the 
Buddha  made  his  appearance  in  the  world  as  a man  that  a 
halo  of  glory  encircled  him,  which  was  visible  throughout 
all  the  surrounding  country,  and  the  earth  about  him  spon- 
taneously produced  a profusion  of  lotus  flowers,”  and  he  is 
now  usually  represented  as  sitting  on  an  open  lotus-lily.  It 
is  a favorite  form  for  pagodas,  those  useless  piles  of  brick 
and  mortar  which  surround  every  Buddhist  temple.  The 
foundation  may  be  a round  or  square  base,  with  an  opened 
lily  to  support  the  shaft  or  spire,  and  there  are  sometimes 
several  rows  of  petals  round  and  round  the  shaft.  Some 
beautiful  specimens  of  this  style  of  pagoda  may  be  found 
at  “ Wat  Na  Pra  Taht,”  or  the  “ Temple  of  the  Holy 
Bones,”  in  Petchaburee.  Lotus-lilies  form  the  capitals  of 
pillars  for  the  temple  porches,  aud  indeed  are  so  common 
everywhere  as  ornaments,  that  plaster  flowers  of  almost 
any  shape  are  now  called  by  masons  “ dok  hoo-ah  ” — flower- 
of-lotus.  They  are  found  adorning  the  ceiling  and  doors 


LOTUS-LILIES. 


273 


of  tlie  wonderful  temple  of  tlie  Emerald  Idol  in  Bangkok, 
and  they  are  one  of  the  thirty-two  mystic  signs  displayed 
on  the  soles  of  the  feet  of  the  sleeping  god.  I once  saw 
them  growing  in  a basin  at  the  foot  of  the  stairway  in  the 
royal  mint.  Mrs.  Leonowens  tells  us  of  “ the  lighted 
tapers  and  the  vases  filled  with  the  white  lotus  which  they 
set  down  upon  the  table  before  the  gilded  chairs,”  on  the 
morning  of  her  introduction  to  the  school-room  in  the 
palace,  and  that  the  late  king,  Maha  Mongkut,  offered  the 
white  lotus  and  the  roses  to  Buddha  every  morning  in 
the  temple  erected  to  the  memory  of  his  mother.  One  of 
their  sacred  books,  a legeiid  of  Buddha’s  life,  is  called 
“ The  White  Lotus  of  tlie  True  Religion.” 

Last  May  there  was  discovered  in  Hankow,  China,  a 
secret  conspiracy  known  as  the  “ White  Lotus.”  Their 
plan  was  to  overthrow  the  present  dynasty  and  effect  a rev- 
olution in  the  Chinese  Empire.  Summary  punishment  was 
meted  out  to  all  who  were  caught,  and  no  less  than  fifty- 
one  heads  were  cut  off  in  one  week.  But  these  Chinese 
secret  societies  are  hard  to  overcome  and  ahnost  impossible 
to  eradicate.  They  may  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  “ Wliite 
Lotus,”  but  the  roots  are  still  there,  and  from  the  mire  of 
discontent  or  oppression  will  send  forth  new  stems  and 
banners  of  defiance. 

The  seal  of  Chow  Praya  Praklang,  one  of  the  three  noble 
lords  who  have  charge  of  the  ei\nl  government  of  Siam,  is 
the  figure  of  a lotus  flower. 

The  faithful  ones  believe  that  the  sacred  bones  of  the 
Buddha  often  appear  in  the  heart  of  the  lilies  placed  befoi-e 
the  priests  as  they  sit  in  prayer  or  meditation  ; and  I have 
heard  that  the  reputed  tooth  of  their  god,  held  so  sacred  in 
the  Temple  of  the  Delada  at  Kandy,  Ceylon,  was  found  re- 
posing in  dental  majesty  on  the  heart  of  an  opening  lotus. 
What  wonderful  hlies  they  must  have  in  Ceylon,  and  what 
great  faith ! But  perhaps  that  monster  tooth  belonged  to 
12* 


274 


SIAM. 


the  Buddha  when  he  was  still  an  elephant  or  a mastodon. 
If  so,  the  worship  of  that  tooth  as  it  is  still  carried  on  by 
elephants,  seems  appropriate,  to  say  the  least. 

At  the  grand  cremation  of  the  drowned  Queen  of  Siam, 
one  of  the  companies  which  walked  in  the  procession  car- 
ried tridents,  the  triple  tips  of  which  were  each  crowned 
with  the  white  lotus ; and  during  the  evening  festivities 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  displays  was  called  the  “ lotus- 
lantern  dance,”  in  which  the  dancers  held  aloft  the  lighted 
lanterns,  waving  them  to  the  slow  rhythm  of  the  music. 

Every  year  thousands  of  real  and  artificial  lilies  are  fioated 
on  the  rivers  and  the  sea  as  offei’ings  to  the  water-spirits. 
Tliey  are  launched  at  night,  vfith  their  little  waxen  tapers 
bravely  burning,  and  bearing  their  cargoes  of  sugar,  sweet- 
meats and  rice,  betel,  tobacco,  and  incense-sticks. 

The  Siamese  use  lotus-shaped  cups  and  sprinklers  for  the 
royal  bath  at  the  hair-cutting  and  coronation  ceremonies  of 
the  king.  I have  among  my  curiosities  a beautiful  lotus 
combination  to  be  used  as  a cigai’-holder.  It  is  a piece  of 
imique  Japanese  workmanship,  and  displays  the  alfility  of 
those  Oriental  ‘‘Yankees”  to  combine  the  useful  with  the 
ornamental.  There  is  a coil  of  stem  for  the  base,  covered 
with  a broad,  green  leaf,  supporting  the  pericarp  of  the 
lily,  the  empty  seed-cells  serving  to  hold  the  cigars,  while  a 
half-opened  lotus  at  one  side  may  be  used  as  an  ash-cup. 

I once  heard  a native  preacher  tell  the  people  who  lived 
near  a mission  chapel,  but  did  not  appreciate  its  privileges 
nor  accept  the  blessings  oifered  there  in  Christ’s  name,  that 
they  were  like  the  frogs  in  the  Hly-pond — they  hopped  in 
and  out  of  the  crystal  waters;  they  sported  in  the  cool  shade 
of  the  broad  leaves;  the  fragrant  petals  dropped  upon  their 
very  heads,  and  the  rich  seeds  pelted  them  as  they  fell  to 
begin  a new  life  for  themselves ; yet  the  frogs  wist  not, 
heeded  not,  while  the  bees  fiew  long  weary  miles  to  gather 
the  lotus-honey  and  dust  their  tired  bodies  in  the  golden 


LOTUS-LILIES. 


275 


pollen.  So  the  heathen  came  from  the  far-off  country  vil- 
lages to  sit  down  in  the  kingdom  of  God  and  enjoy  the 
milk  and  honey  of  His  abounding  grace.  The  words  were 
as  true  as  the  parable  was  beautiful. 

On  some  of  the  beautiful  old  Japanese  bells  are  repre- 
sentations of  Buddha  sitting  in  a lotus-lily  while  he  enjoys 
the  happy  unconsciousness  of  Nirvana. 

The  King  of  Siam  has  his  cigars  made  of  the  best  fine-cut 
native  tobacco,  and  rolled  in  the  petals  of  the  lotus.  Chow 
Sye  manufactures  them,  and  furnishes  not  only  the  king, 
but  many  of  the  princes  with  the  same  luxurious  “ buree.” 
The  lihes  are  gathered  from  the  royal  garden,  and  pre- 
served and  prepared  with  the  utmost  care. 

Among  the  Greeks  the  tree  whose  fruit  gave  immortality 
was  called  the  lotus ; and  not  the  least  beautiful  among  the 
many  charming  and  even  magnificent  villas  of  Borne  is  the 
“ Villa  of  Albani,”  built  nearly  a century  ago  by  Cardinal 
Alessandro  Albani.  It  is  rich  in  works  of  art, — among 
them  a bas-relief  of  “Antonius  crowned  mth  the  lotus 
flower.” 

In  Thibet  the  simple  folk  are  fond  of  putting  up  what 
they  call  “ Trees  of  the  Law  ” — tliat  is,  lofty  flagstaffs,  with 
banners  upon  them  emblazoned  with  that  mystic  charm  of 
wonder-working  power,  the  sacred  words,  Mani padme 

hum'''’ — “Ah,  the  jewel  is  in  the  lotus”  (L^.,  “the  Self-cre- 
ative force  is  in  the  Kosmos”).  Perhaps  you  are  not  aware 
that  the  visible  world  is  believed  by  many  in  these  Eastern 
lands  to  have  sprung,  or  evolved  itself,  from  the  heart  of  a 
lotus.  “ 'Whenever  the  flags  are  blown  open  by  the  wind 
from  the  thrice-sacred  valleys  of  Thibet,  and  ‘ the  holy  six 
syllables  ’ are  turned  toward  heaven,  it  counts  as  if  a prayer 
were  uttered ; a prayer  which  brings  down  blessings  not 
only  upon  the  pious  devotee  at  whose  expense  it  was  put 
ui>,  but  also  upon  the  whole  country-side.  Everywhere  in 
Thibet  these  praying  flagstaffs  meet  the  eye.” 


276 


SIAM. 


During  tlie  late  prevalence  of  cholera  in  Siam,  flagstaffs 
with  little  white  flags  displaying  mysterious  characters  in- 
scribed by  Buddhist  priests  could  be  seen  all  over  the  king- 
dom, The  Siamese  believe  cholera  is  the  direct  work  of 
the  devil  and  his  imps,  and  although,  when  questioned, 
they  said  these  flags  were  to  show  that  they  counted  them- 
selves in  league  with  the  spirits  of  the  under-world  and 
should  not  therefore  be  scourged  with  the  dreadful  plague ; 
may  there  not  still  be  some  connection  with  the  “ Trees  of 
the  Law”  in  Thibet,  and  these  “Spirit  Flags” — ‘•'‘Tong 
pee  ” — in  Siam  ? I am  inclined  to  think  so. 

They  have  many  beautiful  fancies  clustering  about  the 
lotus,  and  even  in  this  warm  sunny  clime,  they  dream 
dreams  and  sing  songs.  Perhaps  I might  fill  a book  with 
them  if  I had  time  to  listen  to  their  i-ecital,  and  could 
translate  them  from  this  Oriental  tongue  into  smooth  Eng- 
lish strains  to  your  ears.  But  we  must  be  content  with  two 
or  three.  AV e speak  of  a “ flower}'  pathway,”  and  a “ bed  of 
roses.”  Hear  them  sing  in  this  far-off  lotus-land  a song  of 
love  and  beauty ; the  “ beauty  of  the  lilies  ” 

“ The  fragrant  lilies  are  blooming  wide, 

Trembling  on  the  crystal  tide, 

Gather,  oh  gather  them  for  the  bride. 

And  scatter  their  petals  on  every  side ; 

Strew  them  over  the  nuptial  bed, 

From  where  the  feet  nestle  up  to  the  head.” 

And  here  is  a song  to  the  “Lotus  Hymph”: 

‘ ‘ Oh,  lovely  and  bright. 

Thou  wast  born  for  dehght. 

In  fairy  bowers 
’Midst  fragrant  flowers. 

“ Tlie  lilies  fed  you 

Until  you  were  grown. 

And  then  they  left  you 
To  seek  your  own. 


LOTUS-LILIES. 


277 


“You  made  your  garland 
And  set  it  afloat, 

And  hoped  it  would  strand 
On  your  true  lover’s  boat. 

“ As  it  passed  from  your  sight, 

You  prayed  with  your  might. 

That  the  brave  one  be  stayed 
In  his  search  for  a maid. 

“ That  the  garland  might  cling 
To  the  hand  of  yom’  king, 

And  bring  him  with  speed 
To  fill  yom  heart’s  need. 

“The  lilies  relented. 

They  heard  your  love-prayer, 

They  gmded  your  garland 
To  him  who  should  share 
The  life  all  contented 
You  live  with  him  there.” 

A LEGEND  OF  THE  BUDDHA  WHEN  HE  WAS  A SPARROW. 

Two  liappy  sparrows  lived  in  a nest,  and  loved  and 
nouiTshed  their  young,  while  the  sun  shone  bright  and 
warm,  and  the  rain  fell  in  gentle  showers,  and  the  night 
folded  them  in  her  quiet  wings  to  rest.  Thus  in  far-off 
India  passed  in  sweet  content  the  days  and  nights  of  tlieir 
happy  bird-life.  But  one  day  the  father  went  in  search  of 
food.  He  found  lotus-liUes  and  tried  to  get  the  seeds,  but 
they  were  set  fast  and  firm  each  one  in  its  cell.  As  the 
sun  grew  hot  the  lily  closed  over  him  and  he  was  a prisoner. 
The  mother  stayed  in  the  nest,  and  a field-fire  came  over 
the  plain  and  devoured  the  dry  grass  and  delicate  wild 
flowers.  The  little  birdlings  cried  : “ Father  has  gone  to 
see  the  angels,  and  who  wiU  help  us  to  escape  ? ” The  fire 
came  nearer  and  nearer.  The  sparrow-mother  beat  her 
wings  and  fluttered  above  her  nest  in  helpless  agony,  and 


2T8 


SIAM.  1 


saw  lier  birdlings  perisli,  and  lier  disconsolate  moans  went 
up  with  the  smoke  to  heaven,  but  no  one  answered,  not  the 
faintest  rustle  of  an  angel’s  wing  was  heai'd,  and  the  hot 
hours  passed  slowly  by.  The  day  was  almost  gone  when 
she  broke  out  in  bitter,  indignant  complainings,  saying,  “ The 
fathers  are  of  no  account.  They  go  off,  forgetting  their 
families,  and  flirting  with  other  birds ! ” At  last  the  long, 
sad  day  was  over.  The  Indian  sun  went  down  in  a blaze 
of  tropical  splendor.  The  dew  fell,  and  the  lotus  unfolded 
its  rosy  petals,  and  the  sparrow-father  was  free.  He  had 
been  thinking  of  his  mate  and  the  little  ones  in  the  home- 
nest,  and  with  a rich,  sweet  lotus  seed  in  his  bill  he  fairly 
flew  to  the  cosy  spot  he  had  left  in  the  morning.  As  he 
saw  the  blackened  waste  stretch  before  him  he  hastened 
his  flight  and  soon  alighted,  with  a wildly  beating  heart,  on 
a burnt  branch  near  which  still  fluttered  his  forlorn  mate. 
In  his  sorrow  and  consternation  the  lotus  seed  dropped, 
and  was  burned  in  the  embers  wliich  yet  glowed  at  his  feet. 
His  angry  wife  flew  at  him  and  pecked  him,  charging  him 
with  neglect  and  inconstancy,  and  upbraiding  him  for  the 
death  of  the  nestlings.  He  tried  in  vain  to  defend  himself, 
telling  of  the  lotus-lily  that  enclosed  him  in  its  golden 
heart,  aud  of  the  round,  ripe  seed  he  brought  from  its 
treasures  for  their  evening  feast,  and  that  he  was  full  of 
sorrow  for  the  dire  disaster  that  had  befallen  the  birdlings 
he  loved  so  well.  She  would  not  listen,  but  demanded, 
“ Where  is  the  proof  of  your  love  ? Where  is  the  lotus 
seed  ? Your  words  are  as  false  as  your  heart,  and  I,  if  I 
am  born  again,  though  it  be  through  countless  generations, 
I will  never  speak  to  a male  again  ! ” As  she  ended  the 
words  of  this  rash  vow  she  closed  her  bill  with  a determined 
snap  and  flew  right  into  the  fire  which  still  burned  in  a 
neighboring  copse,  and  perished  miserably.  The  poor 
sparrow-Buddha  in  his  despair  cast  one  sorroAvful  look  over 
his  ruined  and  desolate  home,  and  then  followed  the  ex- 


LOTUS-LILIES. 


270 


ample  of  his  angry  spouse,  and  darting  into  the  flames  died 
with  her  on  the  same  funeral  pyre.  But  that  was  not  the 
end,  for  the  Lord  and  Lady  Buddha  were  immortal,  and 
this  was  but  one  of  the  fiery  passages  in  their  lives  from 
which  they  came  forth  more  and  more  purified,  although 
the  dross  was  not  quite  all  consumed  ; and  yet  in  time  she 
did  speak  to  him  again,  and  learned  to  love  him  too,  and 
the  old  volume  of  their  lives  was  rebound. 

But  I cannot  transcribe  its  pages  here,  for  it  runs  through 
illimitable  editions ; and  you,  if  you  but  tried  to  read  it  aU 
would  grow  so  sleepy  you  might  be  taken  for  a veritable 
“ Lotus-eater,”  and  there  is  danger  you  would  never  again 
be  wide  enough  awake  to  fijiish  the  rest  of  my  book.  ' 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  SIAM. 

"We  cannot  teU  ivlien  Siam’s  rivers  first  ran  to  tlie  .sea, 
nor  for  liow  many  centuries  the  stream  of  liumanity,  wliicli 
had  its  rise  in  the  Xorth,  has  been  fiowing  through  the 
kingdom.  But  we  do  know  that  only  a few  years  ago, 
within  this  present  century  even,  was  the  pure  Gospel  in- 
troduced, and  a little  stream  of  the  Gospel  fioods,  which  are 
yet  destined  to  cover  the  whole  earth,  began  to  trickle  into 
the  hearts  and  lives  of  these  poor  benighted  ones,  bringing 
light,  and  refreshment,  and  glory  with  every  drop  of  its 
life-giving  waters.  It  was  the  “ beginning  of  the  Gospel 
of  the  grace  of  God  ” in  this  far-away  lieathen  land,  and  it 
dates  from  the  year  1819.  There  were  Roman  Catholics  at 
work  here  long  before  that  time.  The  French  priests 
came  as  early  as  1G62,  and  the  Portuguese  had  preceded 
them. 

“ At  Sophabnri,”  says  Sir  John  Bowring,  “ a city  founded 
about  A.D.  GOO,  the  ruins  cf  the  palace  of  Phanlcon  (a  Greek 
adventurer)  still  exist,  and  there  are  the  remains  of  a 
Christian  church  founded  by  him,  in  which,  some  of  the 
traditions  say,  he  was  put  to  death.  I brought  with  me 
from  Bangkok  as  a relic,  one  of  the  columns  of  the  church, 
richly  carved  and  gilded.  The  Avords  ^Jesus  Ilorainum 
Salvator  ’ are  still  inscribed  over  the  canopy  of  the  altar, 
upon  which  the  image  of  Buddha  now  sits  to  be  worshii> 
pod.”  Xotwithstanding  Louis  XIV.  sent  a special  em- 
bassy to  the  court  of  Siam  for  the  express  purpose  of  con- 
verting the  king  and  his  nobles  to  the  Roman  Catholic 
(280)  " 


281 


CHRISTIAN  MINIONS  IN  SIAM. 

faitli,  they  refused  to  be  couverted.  The  political  designs 
always  involved  in  Jesuit  enterprises  were  also  thwarted, 
and  by  a royal  decree  in  1780,  they  were  banished  from  the 
kingdom. 

The  late  Bishop  Pallegoix  resumed  aggressive  work  in 
1830,  and  the  Jesuits  count  thousands  of  adherents  among 
the  Portuguese  and  French  half-castes,  the  Chinese  and 
other  nationalities  who  desire  political  protection  in  order 
to  evade  the  laws  of  the  land,  or  escape  punishment  when 
they  have  broken  them.  Their  converts  among  the  Sia- 
mese are  very  few.  They  are  both  feared  and  hated  by 
the  Government,  but  they  are  gaining  ground — e.  g. : A 
Siamese  noble  lately  asserted  that  he  knew  of  thirty-two 
estates  winch  the  Jesuits  had  seized,  and  now  held,  through 
French  protection,  in  spite  of  all  the  protestations  of  the 
native  owners.  The  last  Siam  Directory  gives  the  names 
of  twenty  foreign  Jesuit  missionaries,  among  them  a vicar- 
apostohc  and  a bishop.  They  have  a printing-press  in 
Bangkok,  five  churches,  and  a school.  They  also  have 
churches  at  Chantaboon,  Patriew,  Ayuthia,  Bangplasoi, 
Xikhom,  Prom,  Sara-lmree,  Yat  Pleng,  and  Kanbureo. 
At  Bann-Xok-Ivwak  they  have  both  a church  and  a college 
of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus. 

I have  read  in  an  old  book  published  in  Bangkok  in 
1819,  that  the  first  effort  for  the  conversion  of  the  Siamese 
to  the  Christian  religion  was  made  by  Mrs.  Ann  llasseltine 
Judson,  at  the  time  of  Dr.  Judson’s  first  residence  in  the 
city  of  Bangoon,  Burmah.  There  were  a great  many  Sia- 
mese there,  and  she,  becoming  interested  in  them,  applied 
herself  to  the  study  of  the  language  and  then  translated  a 
tract,  a catechism,  and  the  gospel  of  Matthew  into  Siamese. 
The  catechism  was  printed  at  the  Baptist  mission  press  in 
Serampore  about  the  close  of  the  year  1810,  and  was  the 
first  Christian  book  ever  printed  in  Siamese.  It  is  glorious 
to  think  that  a Chidstian  woman’s  heart  and  hand  were  both 


282 


Siam. 


busy  planniug  and  working  for  tbe  salvation  of  Siam  more 
than  sixty  years  ago ! Ann  Ilasseltine  is  dead.  They  are 
all  dead,  tbe  noble  wives  of  that  grand  old  missionary,  Dr. 
Jndson.  “ They  rest  from  their  labors,  and  their  works  do 
follow  them  and  we  of  to-day  yet  love  to  do  them  honor. 
^Vhat  grander  work  cordd  a woman  do  than  begin  the  re- 
demption of  a nation  \ "What  holier  thing  can  we  do  than 
to  strive  with  all  our  might  for  its  completion  ? 

Eev.  W.  II.  Medhurst,  of  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
was  also  interested  in  Siam  about  this  time,  not  as  a sepa- 
rate held,  however,  but  as  a portal  to  the  Chinese  Empire, 
and  so  in  the  same  year  that  Mrs.  Judson’s  Siamese  pro- 
ductions were  printed  he  sent  Chinese  tracts  to  Tringanu 
and  Siam.  Xearly  twenty  years  later  he  sailed  from 
Batavia  for  Singapore,  intending  to  visit  Siam  in  com- 
pany with  Dr.  Karl  GutzlafE  and  the  Eev.  Mr.  Tomlin. 
But  he  was  disappointed  in  finding  that  they  had  sailed 
from  Singapore  just  two  days  before  his  arrival.  He 
essayed  to  follow  them  in  a native  prow,  which  was  to  go 
u|3  the  gulf  as  far  as  Singapore ; but  failing  to  get  a passage 
from  there  further  north,  he  was  obliged  to  return.  Dr. 
Gutzlaff  and  Eev.  Mr.  Tomlin  arrived  in  Siam  in  August, 
1828,  and  were,  so  far  as  we  have  been  able  to  ascertain, 
the  first  Protestant  missionaries  to  set  foot  on  the  soil  of 
this  kingdom.  They  secured  permission  to  reside  in  Bang- 
kok and  labor  among  the  Chinese,  and  strange  to  say,  their 
best  fi'iend,  and  one  from  whom  they  received  the  greatest 
kindness,  was  a Eoman  Catholic,  the  Portuguese  consul. 
Seignior  Carlos  de  Silveira,  who  furnished  them  with  a house 
on  the  Government  jwoperty,  and  he  even  protected  them 
when,  later,  the  Jesuits  sought  their  expulsion.  They  also 
found  a firm  friend  in  Mr.  Eobert  Hunter,  an  English 
merchant,  who  was  living,  with  his  Portuguese  wife,  in 
Bangkok.  They  began  at  once  to  heal  the  sick,  and  also 
distributed  twenty-five  bo:^es  of  books  in  about  two  months. 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  SIAM. 


283 


This  raised  the  suspicions  of  the  natives,  and  they  charged 
the  missionaries  with  being  spies,  and  that  they  intended 
to  incite  the  Cliinese  to  rebellion.  The  king,  thinking  the 
hooks  were  the  main  cause  of  alarm,  ordered  specimens  to 
he  translated,  hut  finding  nothing  harmful,  the  missionaries 
were  permitted  to  remain.  They  applied  themselves  dili- 
gently to  the  study  of  the  Siamese  language,  and  knowing 
that  it  is  the  “entrance  of  God’s  Word  that  giveth  light,” 
they  attempted  to  translate  the  Scriptures,  in  the  meantime 
sending  appeals  to  the  American  clmrches,  and  to  Dr.  Jud- 
son  in  Burmah,  for  missionaries  for  Siam. 

Mr.  Tomlin  was  taken  ill,  and  soon  returned  to  his 
family  in  Singapore.  Thus  Dr.  Gutzlaif  was  left  alone, 
hut  he,  having  prepared  a Siamese  tract  and  translated  one 
of  Dhe  gospels,  also  went  to  Singapore  in  the  latter  part  of 
1829  to  have  tliem  printed.  While  there  he  was  married 
to  Miss  Maria  Xewell,  of  the  London  Missionary  Society. 
She  came,  as  a young  bride,  to  Bangkok  in  February,  1830, 
and  Avas  the  first  woman  to  undertake  personal  work  for 
Christ  in  Siam.  She  aided  her  husband  in  his  unremitting 
toil  of  translating ; “ they  hardly  allowed  themselves  time 
for  rest  or  sleep,  daily  employing  a number  of  copyists.” 
In  one  short  year  her  life  was  ended  on  earth,  and  she  and 
her  child  rest  quietly  in  a foreign  grave.  Dr.  Gutzlaff  soon 
after  sailed  for  China,  where  he  lived  to  labor  many  years. 
He  was  hut  twenty-five  when  he  reached  Siam,  and  he 
entered  upon  the  work  Avith  all  the  energy  of  his  nature, 
and  it  is  astonisliing  how  much  he  accomphshed,  for  during 
his  stay  of  less  than  two  years  he,  with  Mr.  Tomlin,  trans- 
lated the  wliole  Bible  into  Siamese,  a considerable  portion 
of  it  into  the  Laosian  and  Cambodian  languages,  and  pre- 
pared a dictionary  and  grammar  of  the  Siamese  and  Cam- 
bodian. 

Dr.  David  Aheel,  Avho  reached  Bangkok  in  1831 — ^half 
a century  ago — and  just  twelve  days  after  Dr.  Gutzlaff  had 


284 


SIAM. 


sailed  for  China,  was  tlie  first  Ameincan  missionary  to 
Siam.  Ilis  saintly  life  and  earnest  prayers  seem  to  have 
left  a blessing  on  all  the  lands  be  visited,  and  bis  name 
deserves  a place  with  that  of  Henry  Martjm.  lie  bas  bad 
a long  line  of  successors.  I Avill  give  as  full  a list  as  pos- 
sible in  another  place.  But  some  of  them  deserve  special 
mention. 

Rev.  John  Taylor  Jones,  D.D.,  under  the  care  of  the 
American  Baptist  Board,  came  over  from  Burmab  with 
bis  family  in  1833  to  labor  among  the  Siamese.  He  also 
took  charge  of  the  little  flock  of  Chinese  which  Dr.  Abeel 
bad  been  obliged  to  leave.  In  December  of  that  year  be 
bad  the  pleasure  of  baptizing  three  Chinamen.  Dr.  Gutz- 
laff  bad  previously  baptized  one  convert,  the  first-fruits  of 
the  harvest  we  are  still  reaping. 

Dr.  Jones  labored  many  years  in  Bangkok,  and  we  bear 
that  be  was  an  earnest,  faithful  worker,  and  a true  Chris- 
tian gentleman.  He  died  there  also,  and  liis  body  rests  in 
the  Protestant  cemetery. 

In  1835  Dr.  D.  B.  Bradley,  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.,  reached 
Bangkok,  by  way  of  Maubnain  and  Singapore,  in  company 
with  bis  wife,  and  Dr.  Wilbam  Dean  of  the  American  Bap- 
tist Board.  They  were  one  bundi’ed  and  fifty-seven  days 
from  Boston  to  Maulmain.  It  now  requires  but  little  more 
than  that  many  hours  from  Rew  York  to  Livei’pool.  Dr. 
Bradley,  being  a fully  trained  physician,  began  bis  medical 
work  and  missionary  labors  immediately.  He  opened  a 
dispensary,  and  the  poor,  especially  the  Chinese,  who  are 
more  intelligent  and  trustful  than  the  Siamese,  flocked  in 
crowds  for  healing.  He  also  distributed  books,  and  held  a 
daily  religious  service  at  the  dispensary.  But  bis  good 
works  and  bis  medical  practice,  which  were  all  as  free  as 
the  Gospel,  soon  excited  the  jealousy  of  the  merit-making 
Buddhists.  Complaints  were  heard  that  there  were  special 
days  set  apart  by  the  Government  and  custom  when  all 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  SIAM. 


285 


might  make  merit,  but  principally  by  serving  Buddhist 
priests;  while  if  these  foreigners  were  allowed  to  show 
kindness  to  everybody  every  day  their  merit  would  soon 
outstrip  that  of  the  best  men  of  the  kingdom.  About  this 
time,  too,  a Captain  Wellar  shot  two  pigeons  in  the  pre- 
cincts of  a Buddhist  temple.  This  so  enraged  the  priests, 
who  look  upon  the  taking  of  animal  or  insect  life  as  one  of 
the  greatest  sins,  and  who,  moreover,  had  boasted  that  the 
merit  of  the  temple  grounds  was  so  great  that  it  was  impos- 
sible to  kill  birds  which  flew  there  for  refuge,  that  they 
attacked  Captain  Wellar  in  order  to  wre.st  the  dead  birds 
from  his  hand.  A scutfle  ensued,  in  which  the  Captain  was 
severely  wounded  and  his  gun  taken  from  him.  Mr.  Robert 
Hunter  ran  to  his  assistance  and  brought  the  wounded  man 
to  Dr.  Bradley.  He  fainted  several  times  while  having  his 
wounds  dressed.  The  extravagant  demands  of  Mr.  Hunter 
in  behalf  of  his  friend,  and  his  threats  that  if  they  were  not 
granted  he  would  send  for  foreign  aid  and  establish  British 
rule  in  Siam,  produced  great  commotion  in  the  Govern- 
ment, and  so  excited  the  people  that  we  And  the  following 
in  Dr.  Bradley’s  journal  for  August  10,  1835 : “ It  is  ru- 
mored that  there  is  a plot  on  foot  to  burn  down  the  houses 
of  our  mission.  Doubtless  there  are  men  here  who  would, 
rejoice  in  such  an  event,  but  I do  not  fear  that  we  shall  at 
present  fall  into  such  hands.  An  exceedingly  scurrilous 
and  obscene  placard  was,  a few  mornings  since,  found  on 
the  gate  of  our  homestead,  and  on  it  was  displayed  in  bold 
relief  pictures  of  crosses,  one  for  each  of  the  adult  members 
of  our  mission.”  Before  the  month  closed  they  were  in- 
formed that  they  must  leave  the  premises  within  flve  days. 
Thus  the  little  band  was  scattered.  One  family  occupied  a 
floating  house  on  the  river,  another  found  shelter  with  the 
kind  Baptist  missionaries,  and  Dr.  Bradley  moved  across 
the  river  into  the  little  Catholic  village  of  Santa  Crux,  near 
his  friend,  Mi\  Hunter.  Those  were  dark  days,  but  Christ 


286 


SIAM. 


was  witli  tliem.  Dr.  Bradley  lived  to  secure  and  occupy 
one  of  tlie  most  eligible  sites  in  Bangkok,  and  there  “his 
work  as  medical  missionary,  writer,  and  translator  into  Sia- 
mese of  Christian  books,  printer,  and  preacher,  continued 
with  a zeal  and  hope  which  knew  neither  weariness  nor  dis- 
couragement until  his  lamented  death,  after  thirty-eight 
years  of  toil,  in  June,  18T3.”  The  following  words  were 
spoken  in  memoriam  by  Dr.  William  Dean,  who  knew  him 
intimately  through  all  his  mission  life : 

“The  prayers  of  Dr.  Bradley,  the  servant  of  God,  are  ended, 
but  his  works  continue.  His  body  sleeps,  but  it  shall  rise  again. 
His  labore  are  done,  but  his  work  is  immortal.  His  labors  have 
been  long  continued,  faithful,  and  multiform. 

“ Fimt,  in  surgery  and  medicine  : He  was  the  first  to  practice 
the  former  in  Siam,  and  so  demonstrate  to  the  people  that  by 
the  loss  of  a limb  they  might  save  a life.  He  also  introduced 
vaccination  into  the  country,  which  has  saved  the  lives  of  many, 
and  pi'oved  a rich  boon  to  the  people.  His  medical  skill  intro- 
duced him  to  the  families  of  kings  and  nobles,  and  he  early 
opened  liospitals  and  dispensaries  for  the  gratuitous  treatment 
of  all  who  came  to  him  for  healing. 

“Next,  his  literary  label’s:  Dr.  Bradley’s  annual  calendar 
has  become  a handbook  for  all  classes  here  who  use  the  English 
language.  He  has  prepared  elementary  books  to  aid  in  the  study 
of  English  and  Siamese,  and  his  gi’eat  work,  the  Siamese  Die 
tionary,  which  cost  him  years  of  toil,  and  1x111  hand  down 
his  name  to  future  generations.  But  his  greatest  ambition  in 
this  department  was  to  fm’nish  the  Siamese  a Christian  litera- 
ture. His  translations  of  Scripture,  his  Bible  histories,  lijurm- 
books,  and  tracts  are  knomi  and  used  in  Siam  wherever  Chi’ist 
is  preached.  His  numerous  essays  and  publications  have  touched 
upon  nearly  every  topic  of  enlightened  thought  and  Christian 
science. 

“Agaiu,  his  evangelical  labors  in  preaching  the  Gospel:  In 
this  work  he  has  been  eminently  faithful,  in  season  and  out  of 
season.  Among  his  domestics,  in  the  market-places,  in  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  palace,  and  wherever  he  met  the  people,  he  was 
prompt  to  give  them  the  message  of  his  Master ; and  you  can 
bear  me  witness  that  he  has  been  faithful  to  those  who  speak 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  SIAM. 


287 


the  English  language,  whether  he  met  them  in  the  private  walks 
of  life  or  the  public  places  of  prayer.  He  has  not  shunned  to 
declare  the  counsel  of  God. 

“ Dr.  Bradley  has  left  a worthy  Christian  example  and  an  un- 
tarnished reputation.  We  claim  for  him  not  infallibility  nor 
Chi’istian  perfection,  but  while  we  may  perhaps  in  some  thhigs 
have  diflPered  from  him  in  judgment,  we  are  all  ready  to  yield  to 
him  integrity  of  purpose,  and,  in  all  the  varied  relations  and 
complicated  duties  of  life,  an  honest  endeavor  to  do  the  right. 
Dr.  Bradley’s  religion  was  in  keeping  with  his  natural  tempera- 
ment— active,  ardent,  untning.  His  faith  knew  no  limit  within 
the  promises  of  God.  His  foot  never  faltered  under  a divine 
command.  His  heart  never  feai’ed  to  follow  his  Divine  Leader. 
His  faith  amounted  to  an  assurance,  and  with  an  unwavermg 
exjxictation  he  looked  forwai-d  to  the  end  of  his  faith — the  sal- 
vation of  his  soul.  He  could  in  all  honesty  say,  ‘ I know  that 
my  Redeemer  liveth.’ 

“ As  Abraham,  in  the  dark  hour  when  the  son  of  promise  was 
corded  for  the  sacrifice  and  laid  upon  the  altar,  believed  hi  God 
and  received  him  in  a figure  as  by  a resurrection  from  the  dead, 
so  our  departed  brother,  while  looking  upon  the  sons  of  premise 
in  this  land  still  m the  darkness  of  death,  and  himself  hastening 
to  the  grave,  believed  in  God,  and  finished  his  work  fully  ex- 
pecting that  his  label’s  would  not  be  in  vain  in  the  Lord.  A lit- 
tle while  ago  he  said  in  our  prayer-meeting,  ‘ I expect  from 
heaven  to  look  doivn  on  this  people,  and  to  see  them  redeemed 
and  Christianized.  ’ 

“ Dr.  Bradley  had  nearly  reached  the  appointed  limit  of  three- 
score and  ten,  having  been  bom  at  Marcellus,  New  York,  in 
1804.  Until  the  last  month  of  his  life  he  was  seen  walldng 
among  us,  his  active  step,  his  beammg  eye,  and  busy  hands  im- 
pelled with  all  the  enthusiastic  energy  of  youth. 

“ With  the  exception  of  one  visit  to  America,  and  a short  trip 
to  China,  his  whole  public  life,  of  nearly  forty  years,  has  been 
one  of  Chri.stian  benevolence  and  ceaseless  activity  among  the 
natives  of  Siam.  His  missionary  associates  have  in  such  an  ex- 
pmplo  a_  lesson  of  priceless  value,  and  his  wife  and  children, 
who  are  also  children  of  God,  have  in  such  a fife  and  such  a 
death  a legacy  richer  than  a kingdom.” 

Ilis  is  the  best  known  and  most  honored  missionary 


288 


SIAM. 


name  in  all  Siam  to  tliis  clay.  TVlierever  we  go  we  find 
those  who  have  known  and  loved  him,  have  received  his 
books,  listened  to  his  teachings,  and  many  of  them  found 
Christ. 

Dr.  Win.  Dean  is  well  known  in  America,  China,  and 
Siam.  Not  long  ago  he  visited  us  at  Petchaburee,  and  one 
evening  gave  us  a sketch  of  his  life.  It  was  fifty  years  last 
September  since  he  received  his  appointment,  and  it  was 
interesting  to  hear  him  tell  of  the  beginning  of  things  here 
a half  century  ago,  and  to  follow  the  rapidly  succeeding 
events  down  to  the  present.  He  came  to  Siam  with  Dr. 
Bradley,  but  his  first  stay  here  was  very  short.  He  devoted 
himself  entirely  to  the  study  of  the  Chinese  language,  and  had 
the  pleasure  of  organizing  the  first  church  of  Protestant 
Chinese  Christians  that  was  ever  gathered  in  the  East.  As 
soon  as  the  ports  of  the  Celestial  Empire  were  opened  to 
foreigners  he  hastened  north.  He  also  had  the  honor  of 
organizing  the  first  Chinese  church  in  Hong-Kong,  and  bap- 
tized thirty  or  forty  of  its  members,  thi’ee  of  whom  have 
become  pastors  of  native  churches.  He  spent  twelve  years 
in  Hong-Kong,  and  later  returned  to  Siam,  and  settled 
clown  to  labor  among  the  Chinese  residents  of  this  king- 
dom. He  made  his  home  in  Bangkok,  but  from  there 
went  out  to  labor  in  other  cities  and  provinces.  He  has 
baptized  about  five  hundred  disciples,  seven  of  whom  en- 
tered the  ministry.  When  he  left  Boston  in  1831,  his 
friends  told  him  he  need  not  expect  to  live  more  than 
two  or  three  years ; but  the  members  of  the  Missionary 
Society,  the  old  Boston  pastors,  and  nearly  all  his  friends 
are  dead — professors,  teachers,  classmates,  all,  all  gone ! 
while  Dr.  Dean  has  already  completed  threescore  and  fif- 
teen years,  and  still  lives,  working  and  waiting  for  his 
heavenly  summons  to  go  up  higher. 

Drs.  Mattoon  and  House  must  also  be  classed  among  the 
old  veterans.  They  have  both  retired ; not  on  a pension, 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  SIAM. 


2S9 


however,  unless  it  be  paid  in  the  gratitude  of  hearts  which 
still  hold  them  in  loving  remembrance.  Dr.  Mattoon  has 
spent  years  of  active  service  since  his  return  to  America  in 
elforts  to  elevate  and  convert  the  negroes  of  the  South, 
Avhile  Dr.  Samuel  R.  House,  after  some  thirty  years  in 
Siam,  is  now  quietly  living  in  his  native  town  of  Water- 
ford, N.  Y.  But  the  agencies  in  Siam  which  these  men 
helped  to  inaugurate — the  church,  the  school,  the  press — 
still  go  on  with  ever-increasing  power  and  blessing. 

At  present  Dr.  William  Dean,  and  Rev.  Lewis  Eaton, 
lately  arrived,  are  the  only  representatives  of  the  American 
Baptist  Board  at  work  among  the  Chinese.  They  have 
cha])els  at  Bangkok,  Lengkiachu,  Bangplasoi,  Ku-Buang, 
Sin-Buang,  and  Patriew.  Formerly  they  had  quite  an 
extensive  work  among  the  Siamese,  wdth  a full  corps  of 
missionaries,  schools,  printing-press,  etc.  But  that  has  all 
been  given  up  by  the  Board. 

The  American  Board  transferred  its  efforts  to  China  as 
soon  as  that  field  was  opened,  and  gave  its  work  in  Siam  to 
the  “ American  Missionary  Society,”  by  whom  it  was 
maintained  a very  short  time,  and  then  discontinued. 
Their  property  and  printing-presses  were  transferred  to 
Dr.  Bradley,  and  are  now  in  the  hands  of  his  widow  and 
children.  One  of  his  sons.  Rev.  Cornelius  Bradley,  was  a 
missionary  in  Bangkok  for  a few  years,  but  has  since  gone 
to  California,  where  he  is  now  engaged  in  a theological 
seminary  at  Oakland.  Two  of  Dr.  Bradley’s  daughters 
have  married  missionaries,  and,  as  Mrs.  McGilvary  and 
Mrs.  Cheek,  belong  to  the  Laos  mission.  Mr.  Dwn'ght 
Bradley  has  charge  of  the  printing-presses,  and  has  also 
a lucrative  position  in  the  Foreign  Minister’s  office,  where 
his  prompt  business  talents  and  sterling  Christian  manhood 
win  for  him  the  esteem  of  all.  A younger  brother,  D.  B. 
Bradley,  is  now  pursuing  his  theological  studies  in  the 
United  States. 

13 


290 


SIAM. 


As  time  passed  on,  one  agency  after  another  left  the 
field,  until  to-day  the  entire  work  of  Christianizing  the 
Siamese  is  left  to  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church  in  the  United  States  of  America. 
This  Board  began  its  work  by  sending  out  Bev.  W.  P. 
Buell  and  wife,  who  arrived  in  1840.  They  were  com- 
pelled to  leave  the  field  in  1844,  as  Mrs.  B.  was  stricken 
with  paralysis,  and  it  was  not  until  1847  that  Rev.  Mr. 
Mattoon  and  wife  and  Dr.  House  arrived  to  take  their 
place.  They  took  up  the  work  with  brave,  hopeful  hearts. 
They  studied  the  language,  and  printed,  and  preached,  and 
practiced  medicine.  The  king  was  outwardly  friendly,  but 
became  jealous  of  the  growing  influence  of  the  missionaries 
and  the  increased  “ merit-making,”  as  the  Siamese  called  it, 
of  the  physicians.  Therefore,  when  they  desired  another 
site  for  a station,  they  found  it  impossible  to  rent  or  pur- 
chase. Their  native  teachers  were  thrown  into  prison,  the 
servants  fled,  and  the  people  refused  to  sell  them  food.  In 
their  extremity  they  even  cherished  the  painful  thought  of 
leaving  the  field.  They  looked  to  God  for  deliverance, 
and  while  waiting  for  a ship  to  carry  them  away,  it  arose 
from  an  unexpected  cause.  The  king  was  attacked  with 
an  alarming  disease,  which  soon  proved  fatal.  The  priest- 
king,  Maha  Mongkut,  was  then  called  from  the  seclusion 
of  the  Buddhist  monastery  to  sit  on  the  throne  of  the 
Sacred  Prabahts.”  He  ascended  the  golden  steps  with  a 
heart  full  of  friendliness  to  the  missionaries,  to  whom  he 
owed  much  of  his  knowledge  of  science  and  languages,  and 
from  whom  he  imbibed  the  liberal  policy  which  made  his 
long  reign  a peculiarly  prosperous  and  brilliant  one.  They 
were  invited  to  the  palace,  and  while  enjoying  the  royal 
favor,  the  missionaries  wrote : “ The  princes  and  nobles 
now  courted  our  society ; our  teachers  and  servants  returned 
to  their  places;  throngs  came  to  our  houses  to  receive 
books,  to  talk  with  us  respecting  their  contents;  and  we 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  SIAM. 


291 


were  permitted  to  go  where  we  chose,  and  to  speak  in  th  3 
name  of  Jesus  with  the  confidence  that  we  should  not  be 
avoided,  but  obtain  a respectful  hearing.”  They  were  soon 
able  to  secure  ground  and  erect  suitable  buildings  for  per- 
manent homes.  In  1851  the  missionary  ladies  were  ad- 
mitted to  teach  in  the  palace  among  the  women  of  the 
royal  harem.  From  that  time  to  the  present  the  mis-  j 
sionaries  have  enjoyed  the  protection  and  favor  of  the  / 
king,  and  as  proof  of  the  high  estimation  in  which  they  are  j 
held,  we  quote  the  following  statement,  prepared  by  the 
authorities,  and  having  the  sanction  of  the  king : 


“Many  years  ago,  when  there  were  no  white  men  in  Siam, 
the  American  missionaries  came  here.  They  came  before  any 
other  Europeans,  and  they  taught  the  Siamese  to  speak  and 
read  the  English  language.  The  American  missionaries  have 
always  been  just  and  upright  men.  They  have  never  meddled 
in  the  affairs  of  Government,  nor  created  any  difficulty  with 
the  Siamese.  They  have  lived  with  the  Siamese  just  as  if  they 
belonged  to  the  nation.  The  Government  of  Siam  has  great 
love  and  respect  for  them,  and  has  no  fears  whatever  concern- 
ing them.  When  there  has  been  a difficulty  of  any  kind  the 
missionaries  have  many  times  rendered  valuable  assistance. 
For  this  reason  the  Siamese  have  loved  and  respected  them  for 
a long  time.  The  Americans  have  also  taught  the  Siamese 
many  things.” 

“The  late  king  always  entertained  the  highest  regard  for  his 
instructor,  the  Rev.  J.  Caswell,  and  besides  builcUng  a tomb 
over  his  grave,  presented  his  widow  with  $1, 500  as  a token  of 
his  esteem.” 

He  also  issued  in  1870  a royal  proclamation  of  religious 
liberty  to  the  subjects  of  his  realm,  of  which  Dr.  Bradley 
said  when  he  reprinted  it  in  the  Bangkok  Calendar : 

“ The  following  translation  is  an  extract  from  the  Royal  Sia- 
mese Calendar  for  the  current  year.  It  is  issued  by  authority  of 
His  Majesty  the  supreme  king,  and  is  to  me  quite  interesting  in 
many  respects,  but  especially  in  the  freedom  it  accords  to  all 


292 


SIAM. 


Siamese  subjects  in  the  great  concerns  of  their  religion.  Hav- 
ing near  the  close  of  tlie  pamphlet  given  good  moial  lessons, 
the  paper  conchides  vith  the  follo^ving  noble  sentiments,  and 
very  remarkable  for  a heathen  king  to  promulgate  : 

“ ‘ In  regard  to  the  concern  of  seeking  and  holding  a religion 
that  shall  be  a refuge  to  yourself  in  this  life,  it  is  a good  concern 
and  exceedingly  appropriate  that  you  all — eveiy  individual  of 
you — should  investigate  and  judge  for  himself  according  to  his 
ouui  visdom.  And  when  you  see  any  religion  whatever,  or  any 
company  of  religionists  whatever,  likely  to  be  of  advantage  to 
yourself,  a refuge  in  accoi’d  with  your  own  wisdom,  hold  to 
that  religion  with  all  your  heart.  Hold  it  not  with  a shallow 
mind,  with  mere  guesswork,  or  because  of  its  general  popularity, 
or  from  mere  traditional  saying  that  it  is  the  custom  held  from 
tune  tmmemornal ; and  do  not  hold  a religion  that  you  have  not 
good  evidence  is  ti'ue,  and  then  frighten  men’s  fears,  and  flatter 
their  hopes  by  it. 

“ ‘Do  not  be  frightened  and  astonished  at  diveree  events, 
fictitious  wondere,  and  hold  to  and  follow  them.  When  you 
shall  have  obtained  a refuge,  a religious  faith  that  is  beautiful, 
and  good,  and  suitable,  hold  to  it  with  great  joy,  and  follow  its 
teachings,  and  it  will  be  a cause  of  prosperity  to  each  one  of 
you.’  ” 

Tlie  late  king  seemed  ever  ready  to  acknowledge  the 
good  influence  of  the  missionaries ; and  to  show  that  we 
make  no  vain  boast  of  their  power,  we  have  only  to  re- 
member that  when  Sir  James  Brooke  came  to  Bangkok  to 
open  negotiations  with  the  king  on  behalf  of  the  British 
Government,  he  found  himself  treated  in  a manner  which 
he  considered  so  insulting  that  he  indignantly  took  ship 
again  with  the  purpose  of  securing  assistance  in  the  effort 
to  open  the  country  by  main  force.  Before  he  had  time  to 
return,  that  old  king  died  (1851),  and  when  the  next  em- 
bassy from  Great  Britain  reached  Siam,  it  was  to  find  on 
the  tin-one  one  who  could  appreciate  civilization,  and  who 
claimed  to  be  himself  quite  a scholar  even  by  Eurojtean 
standards.  Maha  Mongkut  knew  how  to  treat  them,  and 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  SIAM. 


203 


to  treat  with  them,  in  an  intelligent  and  regal  manner. 
Years  after,  the  late  ex-regent  remarked  to  Mr.  Seward, 
United  States  Consul-General  to  Shanghai,  that  “ Siam  had 
not  been  disciplined  by  English  and  French  guns  as  China, 
hut  the  country  had  been  opened  by  missionaries.”  And 
God  is  using  them  still  to  help  lead  this  old-new  nation, 
which  is  waking  up  from  its  sleep  of  centuries,  into  the 
only  way  of  truth  and  righteousness. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


THE  CHURCH  IN  SIAM. 

“Let  hs  suiToutid  the  \dcked  -wdlh  truth  and  light,  and 
God  will  come  down  from  above  and  capture  them.”  As 
I have  already  spoken  of  other  churches,  in  this  chajiter  I 
will  confine  myself  entirely  to  those  of  our  own  Board. 

Bangkok  was  the  first  station  occupied  by  the  Presby- 
terian Board,  and  although  Mr.  Buell  arrived  in  1840,  and 
a church  was  organized  in  1849  that  the  missionaries  them- 
selves might  have  a place  of  their  own  in  which  to  celebrate 
the  Lord’s  Supper,  and  one  Chinaman  was  received  on  cer- 
tificate as  a member  of  the  church,  it  was  not  till  after 
twelve  years  of  weary  waiting  that  the  first  Siamese  con- 
vert openly  abandoned  the  religion  of  his  fathers, and  made 
a jniblic  profession  of  his  faith  in  Christ.  Two  more  were 
received  in  1861 ; and  several  years  later  the  first  Siamese 
woman  ventured  to  join  the  church.  Since  then  the 
church  has  gone  on  increasing  year  by  year.  This  first 
church  now  numbers  53  communicants,  22  of  whom  are 
women,  and  25  baptized  members  who  are  still  little  chil- 
dren. I am  sorry  I am  not  able  to  give  the  full  number 
admitted  since  its  organization ; of  course  it  is  much  greater 
than  that  now  represented.  Many  have  died,  and  others 
have  fallen  away,  either  gone  back  to  Buddhism,  or  sinned 
so  as  to  be  cut  ofi  from  the  communion.  They  are  quite 
liberal,  and  with  their  contributions  help  to  support  a na- 
tive preacher  in  Ayuthia,  the  old  capital  of  the  kingdom. 
Several  of  their  members  have  become  ministers,  and  are 
still  preaching  the  Gospel, — two  of  them  at  Ayuthia,  and 
one  at  the  Second  church,  Bangkok, 

(294) 


THE  CHURCH  IN  SIAM. 


295 


An  interesting  incident  is  lianded  down  of  how  the  for- 
eigners of  Bangkok  took  great  pride  in  raising  money  for 
an  organ  for  the  mission.  A man  who  was  not  a Chi-istian 
started  out  with  the  subscription  paper.  He  would  not  let 
the  missionaries  subscribe,  and  meeting  a Christian  captain  at 
the  hotel  who  wished  to  give  something,  he  would  not  receive 
it,  saying,  “ iS^one  but  sinners  are  to  have  anything  to  do 
with  this  business.”  They  raised  the  money  and  sent  to 
Singapore  and  bought  the  organ,  and  it  served  to  lead  the 
service  of  song  for  years. 

A second  church  was  organized  in  Bangkok  in  1878,  and 
has  had  about  45  members,  22  of  whom  are  girls  from  the 
Boarding-school. 

In  1872  a station  was  begun  at  Ayuthia.  Eev.  JMessrs. 
Carrington  and  Arthur,  with  their  families,  lived  there  a 
short  time.  Six  confessed  conversion  and  received  baptism, 
but  no  church  has  been  organized.  There  were  several 
more  natives  baptized  at  a later  date.  The  work  is  now 
left  to  the  care  of  two  native  helpers,  but  it  is  very  dis- 
couraging, and  should  be  either  abandoned  or  reinforced. 
The  Siamese  are  not  yet  ready  for  aggressive  work  alone. 
They  need  foreign  leaders. 

Petchaburee  “was  first  visited  by  Bev.  Mr.  Buell  in 
1813,  when  the  governor  treated  him  and  his  compaTiion 
with  indignity.  The  books  and  tracts  they  distributed  were 
either  returned  by  the  people,  or  were  seized  and  destroyed  ; 
and  several  who  received  them  were  arrested  and  would 
have  been  whipped  by  the  governor  of  the  province  had 
not  a Buddhist  high-priest  (the  prince  who  was  afterward 
king)  been  present  at  the  time  and  interceded  for  their  re- 
lease.” But  better  times  were  coming,  and  in  1861,  just 
eighteen  years  after  Mr.  Buell’s  efforts  for  the  good  of  the 
people  were  rejected,  at  the  urgent  request  of  the  new 
acting  governor,  Petchaburee  was  selected  as  a station,  and 
his  friendly  aid  rendered  then  and  afterward  did  much  to 


296 


SIAAf. 


make  tlie  missionaries  comfortable.  Drs.  McFarland  and 
McGilvary  came,  with  a knowledge  of  tlie  language,  from 
Bangkok  in  June,  and  began  at  once  to  preacli  and  teacb. 
In  1863  a cliurcli  was  organized  and  three  converts  re- 
ceived. Since  then  the  work  has  gone  on,  not  without 
vicissitudes  and  discouragements,  it  is  true,  and  yet  to-day 
the  Petchaburee  church  is  the  largest  one  in  the  kiimdom. 
When  I came  in  187J  it  numbered  less  than  20  communi- 
cants; now  there  ai-e  nearly  200  and  over  50  baptized  chil- 
dren, and  the  whole  number  of  members  since  the  begin- 
ning is  319.  A colony  left  the  parent  church  several  years 
ago  and  were  organized  at  Bangkaboon  in  1878 ; and 
since  then  another  colony  has  begun  a new,  separate  life  as 
a church  at  Paktalay,  and  still  others  at  Baulam  and  Ta 
Bua.  The  training  of  native  ministers  began  at  this 
station ; six  have  been  educated  for  that  work,  and  three 
more  are  now  under  instruction.  Where  there  are  no  col- 
leges and  no  theological  seminaries,  such  work  demands  a 
great  deal  of  care  and  labor  from  the  one  or  two  mission- 
aries at  the  station,  who  have  everything  else  to  attend  to  as 
well. 

The  province  of  Petchaburee  presents  a wide  and  in- 
viting field.  Besides  the  city  proper,  said  to  contain  about 
twenty  thousand  people,  there  are  many  outlying  villages 
amons:  the  farms  and  along;  the  sea-coast.  From  thirteen 
of  these  villages  no  less  than  30  converts  were  baptized  in 
1883,  and  the  whole  number  added  to  the  church  during  the 
year  was  69.  A new  chapel  has  been  finished  at  Paktalay, 
a fishing  village  on  the  coast,  and  besides  20  converts  almost 
the  whole  village  have  pronounced  in  favor  of  Christianity. 

At  Bangchan  there  are  quite  a number  of  members,  and 
a new  chapel  has  been  built,  and  our  people  are  giving 
money  now  to  help  the  Christians  at  Ta  Bua  to  secure  a 
chapel.  Collections  are  taken  up  at  all  these  out-stations 
whenever  services  are  held,  and  our  pastor,  Mr.  Dunlap,  is 


THE  CHURCH  IN  SIAM. 


297 


trying  to  teacli  all  to  abound  in  the  grace  of  giving ; these 
converts  already  give  more  in  ju’oportion  than  cbm’cli 
members  at  home. 

Two  important  factors  of  the  work  in  Petcbaburee  are 
tbe  numerous  schools  and  the  hospital,  but  of  both  of  these  I 
will  speak  in  subsequent  chapters.  The  following  is  as 
complete  a list  as  I have  been  able  to  make  of  all  the 
Protestant  missionaries  who  have  ever  labored  in  Siam  to 
date,  1885. 

LIST  OF  PROTESTAIJT  mSSIONARIES  TO  DATE. 


PRESBYTERIAN  MISSIONARIES,  SIAJVI. 

Came. 

Left. 

Anderson,  Miss  Arabella 

1872 

1876 

Arthur,  Rev.  R 

1871 

1873 

Artlim*,  Ml’S.  R 

Buell,  Rev.  Wm.  P 

1871 

1840 

1873 

1844 

Buell,  Mrs.  Wm.  P 

1840 

1844 

Bush,  Rev.  Stephen 

1849 

1853 

Bush,  Mrs.  Stephen  

1849 

1851 

Carden,  Rev.  Patrick  L 

1866 

1868 

Cai’den,  Mrs.  Patrick  L 

1866 

1868 

Carrington,  Rev.  John 

1869 

1875 

Carrington,  Mrs.  John 

1869 

1875 

Coffman,  Miss  S.  M 

1874 

1882 

Cort,  Mi.ss  M.  L 

1874 

Culbertson,  Rev.  J.  N 

1871 

1881 

Culbei’tson,  Mrs.  J.  N.  (Miss  B.  Caldwell) 

1878 

1881 

Cross,  Mr.  S.  (Layman) 

1883 

1884 

Cross,  Mrs.  S.  (Miss  L.  Lmnelle) 

Dickey,  Miss  E.  S 

1882 

1871 

1884 

1873 

Dunlap,  Rev.  Eugene  P 

1875 

Dunlap,  Mrs.  Eugene  P 

1875 

George,  Rev.  S.  C 

1862 

1873 

George,  Mrs.  S.  C 

1862 

1873 

Grimstead,  Miss  Susie  D 

1874 

1877 

House,  Rev.  S.  R.,  M.D 

1847 

1876 

House,  Mrs.  S.  R 

1856 

1 ^76 

Hartwell,  Miss  Mary  E 

1879 

1884 

McCauley,  Rev.  J.  M 

1878 

1880 

McCauley,  Mi’s.  J.  M.  (Miss  Jennie  Eerser) 

1878 

1880 

McClelland,  Rev.  C.  S 

1880 

1882 

McCleUand;  Mm.  C.  S 

1880 

1882 

13* 


298 


SIAAf. 


Came. 

Ar^^TTnrlarirl  T?f»v.  S rr.  T)  T) 

1860 

ATin:  ft.  (T- 

1860 

IMfUnnalfl  T?,pv.  Noah  A.,  Ti  ll 

1860 

ATpDrvnnlfl  AH's.  ATojili  A 

1860 

T\T oDoti  n 1 f]  Mi ss  IT  IT 

1879 

1879 

ATjir'T  <jirpn  T?.pv  * 

1882 

TMafiTinrftri  All’s.  Cl.  David 

1882 

Arnttnon  IR.PV  ft 

1847 

Mattoon.  Aire.  S.* 

Alnreft  Dpv.  Anflrpw  R 

1847 

1856 

Aloree  Aire  Andrew  B 

1856 

AJpilsnn  ATiss  .Tpiinip 

1884 

Odell  Aire  J.  F.* 

1863 

Olinstead  Aliss  Tifmra,  A 

1880 

Rtm'o*p  A AT.T) 

1880 

Rtiii’frp  All’s  Fi’iip.sl  A.  (Aire.  Turner) 

1881 

Ahniclvke  Rev.  J W ! 

1869 

A^andvke  Aire.  J.  VV 

1869 

TVnplitpr  T?PV-  . . 

1884 

PRESBATTERIAX  LAOS  MISSION. 
niippV  ATnrimi  A AT  T) 

niippk  All’S  Al.arion  A (Miss  S.  R.  Rradley) 

1875 

r^:4mphp1l  ATiss  AI  AT  * 

187? 

1879 

Oi^lp  ATis^  ft 

^vitHn  ATis;«;  Tsnl^plla. 

1882 

TTpar«t.  T?.pv  .Toll  11  P 

1882 

TTpf»,i*st.  All’s;.  .Tnhii  

1882 

ATpnilvni’v  T?.pv.  Dmiiplj  T)  T) 

1858 

ATpnilvnry  ATik;  Danipl 

1860 

1883 

Alai’Hn  All’S  Olialmere 

1883 

1882 

T^pnplps  All’s:  ft'imnpl  fAIis«  ftfiflip  Wirt) 

1882 

\^rnnm:iTi  n AA^  AT  T).* 

1871 

1858 

AA’’i]'i:mi  ATi*s:.  ATjiria.  * 

1858 

AA^ilcrm  All’s:  K"nf  p.  * 

1866 

AATj^i’iipi’  ATisjs;  A iitoiiipttp  . . . 

1882 

1882 

1884 

BAPTIST  MISSIONARIES,  SIAM. 

1857 

A sihiiioi’p  All’S.  ATnrtha,  * 

1857 

Chandler,  Air.  J.  H.  Gay  missionary) 

Cliaudler,  Aire.  J.  H 1 

1843 

1843 

! Left. 


1878 

1878 


1882 

1883 

1866 

1866 

1858 

1858 

1864 

1885 

1885 

1880 


1881 


1883 

1883 


1873 

1860 

1875 


1883 


1871 

1871 


the  church  in  SIAM. 


299 


Chilcot,  Eev.  Cyrus  A.* 

Dean,  Kev.  Wm.,  D.D.  ^ 

Dean,  Mrs.  Wm.  (Mrs.  Slafter)  * 

Dean,  Miss  Fannie 

Davenxwrt,  Rev.  Robert 

Davenport,  Mi’S.  Robert 

Eaton,  Rev.  L.  A 

Fielcle,  MLss  Adele  

Goddard,  Rev.  Josiab.  

Goddard,  Mrs.  Eliza  AbboR  ^ 

Jones,  Rev.  John  Taylor,  

Jones,  Ml’S.  Eliza  Green*. . 

Jones,  Mrs.  Judith  Leavitt  

Jones,  iirs.  Sarah  Sleeper 

Jenks,  Rev.  Ei-astus  • 

Jenks,  Ml’S.  Erastus  

Lion,  Rev.  Wm 

Lion,  Mrs.  Wm 

Morse,  Miss  HarrieL  

Partridge,  Rev.  S.  

Partridge,  Mrs.  S.  

Reid,  Rev.  Alan  son* 

Reid,  Mrs.  Alanson 

Slafter,  Mi’s.  Cowdon*  (afterward  Mi’S.  Dean) 

Smith,’ Rev.  S.  

Telford.  Rev.  Robert 

Telford,  Mrs.  Robert 

MISSIONARIES  OF  OTHER  BOARDS  AND  SOCIETIES. 

Abeel,  Rev.  David,  M.D. 

Bradley,  Rev.  D.  B.,  M.D 

Bradley,  Mrs.  E.  jl.* 

Bradley,  Mi’s.  S.  B . - 

Bradley,  Rev.  Cornelius 

Bmdley,  Mi’s.  Comehus 

Benhani,  Rev.  N-  

Benliam.  Mrs.  N.  

Caswell,  Rev.  Jesse 

Caswell,  Mrs.  Jesse 

French,  Rev.* 

French,  Mrs . 

GutzlafF,  Rev.  Karl,  M B • • ■ • • • • 

Gutzlaff,  Ml’S.  Karl  (Miss  Newell)  * 

Hemmenway,  Rev.  Asa 

Hemmenway,  Mi’s.  Asa 

Jolinson,  Rev.  Stephen 

Johnson,  Mi’S.  Stephen 


Came.  Left. 


1865 
18:55 
183!) 
1864 
1836 
1836 
1882 

1866 
1840 

1840 
1833 
1833 

1841 

1847 
1846 
1846 
1867 
1867 

1848 
1869 
1869 
1835 
1835 
1839 
1839 

1849 
1854 
1854 


1867 

1884 

1881 

1845 

1845 

1871 

1848 

1848 

1851 

1838 


1848 

1848 


1837 

1841 

1882 

1863 

1863 


1832 

187:5 

1845 

1874 

1874 

1840 

1840 

1848 

1849 

1842 

1843 
1S31 
!831 
1849 


1831 
1835 
1835 
1850 
1871 
1871 
1840 
1840 
1840 
1840 
1840 
1840 
182'^ 

1830 
1840 
1840  1 1849 
1834  184(5 
1834  1 b4b 


300 


SIAM. 


Came. 


Left. 


Lane,  Eev.  L.  B.,  M.D. . . 

Lane,  Mi-s.  L.  B 

Lisle,  Eev.  Wm.* 

Lisle,  Mrs.  Wm 

Peet,  Eev.  L.  B 

Peet,  Ml'S.  L.  B 

Pierce,  Miss  M.  E.* 

Eobinson,  Eev.  Charles... 
Eobinson,  Mrs.  Charles. . . 

Eobins,  Eev.  Mr 

Eobins,  Mi's 

Silsby,  Prof.  J 

SiJsby,  Mrs.  J 

Tomlin.  Eev.  Jacob 

Ti'ucy,  Eev.  Stephen,  M.D 
Tracy,  lili-s.  Stephen 


1850  1855 
1850  1855 
1830 


1840 

1840 

lt<40 

1834 

18,34 

1838 

1838 

1850 

lf<50 

1828' 

1H38 

1838 


1846 

1846 

1844 

1845 
1^45 
1839 
1839 
1854 
1854 
1831 
1839 
1839 


CHAPTER  XXXIY. 


OTJK  SCHOOLS  IN  SIAM. 

ALTHoron  some  may  teach  that  “ ignorance  is  the  mother 
of  devotion,”  it  is  not  the  mother  of  Christianity,  nor  of 
any  religion  that  will  save  the  soul.  Education  has  always 
been  a pet  scheme  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  wher- 
ever you  find  such  an  organization,  you  will  find  that  schools 
are  planted  and  fostered,  and  the  wiser  her  people  become 
the  better  Christians  they  are. 

The  missionaries  had  only  been  in  Bangkok  a few  years 
when  they  tried  to  gather  children  into  a school.  Their 
first  efforts  resulted  in  securing  six  little  boys  and  girls  who 
were  willing  to  be  taught.  In  1852  the  present  Boys’ 
School  was  opened  at  Sumray,  as  the  lower  compound  at 
Bangkok  is  called.  They  receive  both  boarding  and  day 
pupils,  and  afford  tliem  the  advantages  of  a common  school 
education.  English  is  a prominent  feature,  and  is  the  in- 
ducement which  secures  most  of  the  pupils.  They  desire 
to  gain  sufficient  knowledge  of  that  language  to  enable 
them  to  secure  positions  as  clerks  or  servants  among  the 
foreigners  of  the  capital.  They  try  to  learn  English,  but 
nothing  else,  unless  compelled.  Some  300  boys  have  been 
taught  in  this  school  during  the  thirty  years  of  its  exist- 
ence. Let  us  hope  that  all  have  had  their  faith  in  Buddh- 
ism shaken.  Some  have  been  converted,  and  have  since 
occupied  positions  of  trust  and  usefidness.  Two  are  now 
in  the  ministry,  and  one  is  a teacher  in  the  school.  He  has 
lately  translated  “ Peep  of  Day  ” into  Siamese,  and  he  did 
it  very  well,  too.  A former  pupil  and  teacher  translated 

(301)  ' 


302 


SIAM. 


“ Pilgrim’s  Progress  ” years  ago,  and  a new  illustrated  edi- 
tion will  soon  appear  fresli  from  the  press. 

Ill  the  Foreign  Missionary  for  May,  1883,  is  an  engrav- 
ing, and  an  interesting  account  of  a former  pupil  of  this 
Boys’  School,  now  an  attache  of  the  Siamese  Embassy 
which  we  hope  will  visit  America.  He  sent  his  photograph 
recently  from  London  to  Dr.  S.  R.  House,  with  a letter  in 
which  he  says : 

‘ ‘ I suppose  Dr.  House  will  be  much  surprised  at  receiving  this 
from  one  of  liis  old  pupils,  who  has  long  been  under  his  tuition 
and  care  m Siam  thi’ough  his  benevolence.  I promise  myself 
much  pleasure  at  meeting  my  old  teacher.  May  our  Lord  spare 
us  that  we  may  see  each  other  again  in  this  world.  God  giveth 
and  taketh  away  everything.  The  position  I am  holchng  is  His 
gift  ; I am  quite  firm  and  confident  in  Him.  I cannot  mform 
you  now  of  the  certam  tune  of  our  arrival  in  America.  No  doubt 
we  shall  all  be  pleased,  and  enjoy  very  much  in  commg  to  the 
beautiful  coimtry  that  we  have  never  seen  before.” 

He  then  speaks  of  the  great  changes  and  improvements 
going  on  in  Siam ; names  two  of  his  old  fellow-pupils  in 
the  mission-school  who  are  now  employes  in  the  telegraph 
department  of  the  Government,  and  another  who  is  the 
surgeon  of  the  same  regiment  in  which  he  is  captain.  The 
writer  of  this  letter  was  placed  by  his  father,  a native  gold- 
smith of  Bangkok,  in  the  Boys’  Boarding-School  of  that 
city,  in  the  year  1865,  when  a lad  of  thirteen.  Of  amiable 
disposition,  good  mind,  and  pleasing  manners,  he  always 
had  the  love  of  his  teachers.  In  his  sixteenth  year  he  be- 
came convinced  of  his  duty  to  acknowledge  the  Saviour  ho 
•had  learned  to  love  and  trust,  and  with  a young  school- 
mate, now  an  elder  in  the  First  Church  at  Bangkok,  he 
was  baptized  by  Dr.  House,  November,  1867.  After  being 
connected  with  the  school  four  or  five  years,  he  left  it,  and 
was  variously  employed.  While  a clerk  in  the  Gov'ernment 
custom-house  he  married  a native  Chnstian  girl.  He  has, 


OUR  SCHOOLS  IN  SIAM. 


303 


of  late,  been  an  officer  in  tbe  Siamese  regular  army,  and 
was  appointed  attache  to  tbe  Siamese  Embassy  commis- 
sioned by  His  Majesty  to  visit  tbe  various  courts  and  capi- 
tals of  Europe  and  America. 

Tbe  school  was  never  more  prosperous  than  when  under 
the  care  of  Rev.  J.  M.  McCauley  and  wife,  now  of  Tokio, 
Japan.  They  were  both  earnest,  experienced  teachers,  and 
loved  their  work,  and  they  were  anxious  to  increase  the  at- 
tendance and  elevate  the  standard  of  education.  Mr.  Mc- 
Cauley’s continued  ill-health  compelled  him  to  leave  Siam, 
but  he  has  found  unwonted  strength  and  a wide  field  of 
usefulness  in  the  Tokio  Union  College. 

The  Bangkok  school  has  suffered  many  vicissitudes  and 
a constant  change  of  teachers.  We  hope  the  time  will 
come  when  this  school  shall  have  developed  into  a college, 
with  a faculty  of  experienced  teachers,  who  will  have  time 
to  devote  to  its  best  interests. 

The  Girls’  Boarding-School  of  Bangkok  was  opened  in 
1873  by  Mrs.  Dr.  House  and  Miss  Anderson.  They  hoped 
to  secure  the  attendance  of  daugliters  from  the  families  of 
princes  and  nobles ; but  although  a few  of  this  class  came 
in  the  earlier  years  of  the  school,  of  late  no  children  of 
rank  have  been  enrolled.  When  we  think  of  the  indiffer- 
ence of  the  Siamese  to  the  education  of  girls,  we  rejoice 
over  the  success  of  this  school.  During  the  eleven  years  of 
its  existence  seventy-two  pupils  have  been  admitted.  Of 
this  number  perhaps  twenty-five  have  remained  three  years, 
and  ten  four  years.  Only  five  have  been  entered  for  five 
years,  and  two  for  a longer  period,  neither  of  which,  how- 
ever, remained  over  five  years.  Yery  few  leave  before 
their  term  of  contract  expires,  but  the  majority  of  them 
only  engage  to  stay  three  years.  Of  the  seventy-two  en- 
rolled, eighteen  were  day  pupils.  Of  the  whole  number, 
fifteen  have  been  converted,  ten  have  already  married,  and 
three  have  gone  to  live  with  foreigners. 


304 


. SIAM. 


It  is  a wondei'ful  advantage  to  secure  pupils  for  a term 
of  years,  and  have  tliera  under  your  constant  and  direct 
influence.  Xo  attemj^t  is  made  at  a thorough  education,  as 
many  of  these  girls  do  not  even  know  the  alphabet  when 
admitted,  and  three  or  even  five  years  is  fai’  too  short  a 
time  in  which  to  produce  a finished  scholar.  They  are 
taught  to  read  and  widte  then.’  own  language,  and  English 
if  desired,  and  the  simpler  branches  of  a common  educa- 
tion. They  spend  an  hour  and  a half  each  day  in  sewing 
and  fancy-work.  They  learn  to  make  their  own  clothes,  to 
wash  and  iron,  and  to  cook  native  food.  They  are  taught 
quiet,  womanly  habits,  and  to  keep  their  apartments  neat 
and  clean,  Siamese  girls  reach  maturity,  and  are  usually 
married  so  young,  that  at  present  there  is  hut  one  student 
in  this  school  over  fifteen  years  of  age.  A few  of  the 
pupils  pay  their  board  at  $1.80  per  month,  and  there  is  a 
small  income  from  the  sale  of  fancy  articles.  In  1882, 
during  the  Bangkok  Centennial  Exposition,  the  teachers 
and  pupils  of  this  school  were  permitted  to  place  their 
goods  on  exhibition  in  one  of  the  queen’s  apartments  in 
the  grand  hall.  They  attracted  the  attention  of  the  king, 
who  purchased  the  whole  display,  and  afterward  presented 
the  school  a silver  medal.  During  the  same  exhibition  I 
saw  in  one  of  the  king’s  rooms  a beautiful  silk  quilt,  which 
the  school,  while  still  under  the  superintendence  of  Mrs. 
Dr.  House,  presented  to  His  Majesty  on  one  of  the  ro^'al 
birthdays. 

Special  provision  is  made  for  the  education  of  destitute 
orphans,  but  children  who  have  parents  liHng  are  expected 
to  be  clothed  by  them,  and  to  have  at  least  a pai’t  of  their 
expenses  defrayed.  But  this  is  done  very  grudgingly  by 
the  natives.  They  love  to  think  that  their  “ merit  ” secures 
them  every  advantage.  This  poor  school  has  in  the  last 
ten  years  been  in  charge  of  no  less  than  eight  different 
American  teachers,  all,  except  three,  coming  to  it  "with 


OUR  SCHOOLS  IN  SIAM. 


305 


new  ideas  and  plans  of  work,  and  utter  ignorance  of  the 
Siamese  language.  They  have  had  the  advantage,  how- 
ever, of  the  faithful  and  constant  services  of  “ Ma  Tuan,” 
who  is  an  exceptional  Siamese  woman,  and  was  educated 
and  trained  for  her  position  by  Mrs.  House,  and  she  has 
also  gained  something  from  each  of  that  lady’s  successors. 
She  has  been  chief  teacher  and  matron  for  the  school  ever 
since  it  began,  and  interpreter  between  the  new  mission- 
aries and  the  old  pupils,  as  she  understands  English  very 
well.  It  is  through  her  influence  that  many  of  the  pupils 
have  been  secured  and  retained.  She  is  dignified  and 
kind,  and  each  year  should  add  to  her  wisdom  and  useful- 
ness. The  future  of  this  school  is  brighter  and  broader 
than  the  past.  Miss  Olmstead,  one  of  the  teachers,  has 
opened  two  branch  schools  for  day  pupils  right  out  among 
the  people,  to  allay  prejudice  and  finally  gather  the  girls 
into  the  boai’ding  department.  There  is  no  good  reason 
why,  in  a city  like  Bangkok,  the  capital  of  this  kingdom, 
so  anxious  for  progress  and  civilization,  this  Girls’  School 
should  not  number  hundreds  of  pupils  and  scores  of  gradu- 
ates, and  as  time  passes  parents  will  learn  to  appreciate  an 
education  enough  to  be  willing  to  pay  for  it,  thus  diminish- 
ing the  number  of  assisted  pupils  and  bringing  the  school 
nearer  self-support.  At  present  it  is  sustained  by  con- 
tributions from  American  churches,  which  support  scholar- 
ships at  $30  per  annum.  There  are  thousands  of  girls  in 
Bangkok,  and  this  is  the  only  school  for  them  in  all  that 
idolatrous  city  ; and  when  we  know  that  women  are  always 
more  conservative  than  men,  and  that  old,  false  religions 
depend  on  them  for  support  and  propagation,  we  should 
redouble  our  efforts  and  prayers  for  their  release  from  the 
thraldom  of  Buddhism. 

Years  ago  the  missionary  ladies  had  access  as  teachers  to 
the  royal  palaces.  Maha  Mongkut  himself  invited  them  to 
visit  the  women  of  his  harem.  These  visits  began  in  1851, 


306 


SIAM. 


and  it  was  “ the  first  zenana  teaching  ever  attempted  in  tiie 
East.”  A somewhat  similar  work  was  started  in  Hin- 
dostan  six  or  seven  years  later ; hut  during  the  present 
reign  I have  heard  of  no  such  visits.  A few  English  ladies 
have  access  there,  and  teach  their  language  and  fancy- 
work.  The  queen  takes  English  lessons,  and  annoys  her 
teacher  not  a httle  hy  her  determination  to  learn  the  whole 
of  that  redundant  language  from  a translated  copy  of 
“^sop’s  Fables.”  But  we  can  learn  of  no  effort  being 
made  to  impart  a knowledge  of  Christianity,  the  only 
religion  which  recognizes  the  rights  and  blessings  of  woman- 
hood. 


PETCHABOtEE  SCHOOLS. 

Mrs.  Dr.  McFarland  had  the  distinguished  honor  of  open- 
ing the  first  school  for  girls  in  Siam.  It  was  begun  at 
Petchahuree  in  1865,  just  eight  years  before  the  one  in 
Bangkok.  She  did  not  despise  the  day  of  small  things,  for 
she  commenced  with  hut  oue  pupil,  a half-grown  girl  she 
had  induced,  by  the  promise  of  a slight  rewai'd,  to  leave  her 
idle  companions  and  try  to  learn  to  read  and  sew.  Others 
watched  the  result,  and  seeing  nothing  serious  happen  to 
the  first  brave  soul  who  ventured  to  take  a step  from  igno- 
rance toward  knowledge,  they  followed  too.  They  had  no 
school-books,  hut  were  taught  to  read  from  charts  prepared 
hy  the  missionary’s  Siamese  teacher,  and  the  tracts  and  gos- 
pels printed  for  distribution.  Oral  instruction  was  given 
in  the  rudiments  of  arithmetic,  astronomy,  and  geography. 
We  still  use  a small  outhne  map  of  Siam  which  Mrs. 
McFarland  drew  and  colored  with  her  own  hand.  That 
first  school  has  continued  to  grow  and  increase.  Scores 
have  been  taught  to  read  and  to  sew.  FTine  other  schools 
have  been  opened  and  hundreds  of  pupils  enrolled,  Nearly 
forty  women  and  Cjuite  a number  of  hoys  have  entered  the 
church  through  the  school-room  door.  Many  of  the  pupils 


OUR  SCHOOLS  IN  SIAM. 


307 


remained  for  several  years,  and  scores  of  others  a shorter 
time.  But  may  not  all  have  learned  enough  of  Jesus  to 
save  them  if  they  but  believe  in  and  love  Him  ? We  may 
meet  many  in  heaven  whom  we  never  recognized  here  as 
God’s  children. 

In  1878  there  were  already  six  schools  and  210  pupils. 
That  was  by  far  the  most  prosperous  year  of  the  school 
work.  The  “Howard  Industrial”  numbered  seventy- 
seven,  and  there  were  no  less  than  forty-three  enrolled 
among  the  Laos.  But  there  were  then  three  strong,  well 
women  to  oversee  and  teach  these  240.  The  very  next  year 
Mrs.  Dr.  McFarland  went  with  her  husband  to  open  the 
King’s  School  at  Bangkok.  Soon  clouds  began  to  gather 
here.  They  grew  thicker  and  darker  until,  bursting  upon  our 
station,  we  and  our  work  were  deluged  in  storms  of  trial 
and  tribulation.  In  the  seventeenth  annual  report  (1882) 
no  name  appeared  but  mine,  as  the  schools  were  then  left 
entirely  to  my  care  and  teaching.  Our  city  and  province 
had  been  scourged  with  cholera  for  more  than  a year. 
Many  of  the  old  pupils  fell  victims,  and  others  feared  to 
go  to  the  schools  lest  they  be  carried  home  dead,  so  sud- 
den and  irresistible  was  the  power  of  the  mighty  plague. 
Yet  we  ke])t  up  five  schools  and  a boarding  department, 
and  there  were  108  pupils  in  all,  women  and  children,  with 
ages  ranging  from  six  to  thirty-five  years.  The  next  year 
we  opened  two  more  new  schools,  and  the  others  were  also 
kept  up.  They  were  taught  by  seven  native  teachers,  all 
of  them  trained  in  the  Howard  School,  and  these  teachers, 
I am  glad  to  say,  are  learning  to  be  more  and  more  efficient, 
patient,  and  persevering.  There  were  107  pupils,  but  only 
four  of  them  boarders.  Dr.  Sturge  took  charge  of  boys 
who  had  been  under  our  care  and  reported  forty-seven  at 
the  end  of  the  year.  The  attendance  was  very  irregular, 
and  until  parents  are  more  interested  in  the  education  of 
their  children,  we  see  no  remedy  for  it.  Those  who  ai’e 


308 


SIAM. 


constant  make  commendable  progress.  The  industrial  class 
for  1883  numbered  fifty-four;  of  these,  twenty-seven  re- 
ceived wages  for  their  work,  the  highest  eight  cents  per 
day,  and  the  lowest  two  cents.  The  other  twenty-seven 
worked  for  the  school.  There  were  891  garments  made 
and  twenty  patchwork  quilts.  The  income  from  sales 
was  $237.  The  profit  was  very  small  indeed  ; the  idea  not 
being  to  make  money,  but  to  furnish  employment.  The 
workers  are  neither  neat  nor  tidy,  and  persist  in  chewing 
betel,  and  if  but  one  drop  of  their  blood-red  saliva  falls  on 
& white  garment,  it  can  hardly  be  sold  at  all.  Many  gai’- 
ments,  of  course,  had  to  be  given  away  to  the  pupils  who 
came  unclothed  to  school.  The  children  in  the  outside  or 
district  schools,  also  learned  to  sew,  and  made  most  of  their 
own  clothes,  and  seventeen  quilts,  which  when  finished 
were  given  as  rewards  to  the  httle  workers.  It  is  a comi- 
cal sight  to  see  them  on  cool  mornings  going  about  the  city 
wrapped  in  their  patchwork  quilts,  like  an  Indian  in  his 
blanket.  The  native  teacher  in  the  industrial  department 
is  held  responsible  for  all  work ; instructs  the  others  in  sew- 
ing ; cuts  and  prepares  the  work  ; runs  the  sewing-machine  ; 
attends  to  a part  of  the  bupng  and  selling;  and  is  paid 
twenty-four  cents  per  day,  but  works  all  the  time,  while 
the  others  are  required  to  spend  half  the  day  with  books. 
Those  women  who  have  lately  been  employed  as  successful 
teachers  in  the  district  schools  have  learned  all  they  know 
by  this  half-day  method. 

It  is  thought  by  some  that  in  such  a school  there  is 
danger  lest  the  natives  should  think  they  are  paid  for  learn- 
ing to  read.  May  not  the  same  objection  be  made  to  free 
boarding-schools?  In  one  sense  ours  might  be  called  a 
boarding-school,  but  the  pupils  are  expected  and  required 
to  do  some  sewing  for  the  pennies  they  receive  for  food, 
and  then  they  are  allowed  to  buy  and  eat  what  and  where 
they  please,  instead  of  having  all  their  food  purchased  and 


OUR  SCHOOLS  IN  SIAM. 


309 


prepared  for  them  and  then  invited  to  sit  dovm  and  eat  it 
together.  While  this  industrial  school  is  not  all  that  mis- 
sion workers  would  like,  still,  under  existing  circumstances, 
where  all  women  and  girls  are  expected  to  earn  their  own 
living,  and  we  cannot  induce  them  to  enter  the  boarding- 
school,  although  both  tuition  and  board  are  offered  free,  it 
presents  the  only  available  means  we  know  by  which  their 
attendance  upon  our  instructions  can  be  secured. 

It  is  a well-known  fact  that  when  ladies  began  zenana 
work  in  India,  they  gave  their  time ; they  gave  every  book 
needed  ; they  gave  materials  for  needle-work,  and  what  was 
completed  belonged  to  the  worker ; their  attendance  was  even 
then  considered  a favor.  But  now  what  do  we  see  there  ? 
India  has  26,000  schools,  over  80  colleges,  and  nearly  3,000,- 
000  pupils.  She  will  soon'be  the  most  enlightened  of  all  the 
Eastern  nations,  and  one  gratifying  feature  of  her  edu- 
cation is  that  the  women  of  the  land  are  found  by  thou- 
sands in  schools  opened  expressly  for  their  benefit  by  the 
Government,  and  by  native  princes  and  noblemen.  By 
their  diligence  and  talent  they  are  proving  themselves 
worthy  of  their  advantages,  and  in  the  competitive  ex- 
aminations, open  to  all  who  have  pursued  a certain  course 
of  study,  both  young  men  and  women,  some  of  the  latter 
have  taken  prizes  of  the  first  rank.  When  the  women  of 
a country  are  elevated  to  walk  side  by  side  with  their  hus- 
bands and  brothers  in  paths  of  usefulness  and  learning, 
then,  and  not  till  then,  will  the  nation  be  truly  civilized. 
When  God  so  blesses  the  women  and  girls  of  Siam  that 
they  will  be  willing  to  go  to  school  and  study  because 
they  desire  to  learn ; and  further,  when  they  will  be  ready 
to  pay  for  the  privilege  of  doing  so,  none  will  rejoice  over 
it  more  than  those  who  have  always  been  ready  and  anxious 
to  do  much  for  hundreds  more  who  still  stand  aloof  from 
our  schools  in  spite  of  every  effort  and  inducement  to  have 
them  enter.  There  is  very  little  encouragement  by  the 


310 


SIAM. 


Government  for  female  education,  and  provincial  cities 
cannot  well  go  ahead  of  the  capital,  and  yet  the  king  made 
a generous  donation  toward  the  Girls’  School  Building  in 
Petchahuree.  We  very  much  wish  they  would  establish  a 
Government  school  for  girls  in  Bangkok,  as  they  already 
have  several  schools  for  boys.  Many  hoped  that  the  Memo- 
rial Building  to  the  late  queen  would  be  devmted  to  the 
education  of  the  young  women  of  Siam,  hut  as  it  nears 
completion  other  purposes  are  manifest.  If  through  the 
king’s  sorrow  and  pain,  and  the  death  of  the  bright  young 
queen,  other  women  could  have  had  the  door  opened  before 
tliem  into  light  and  knowledge,  that  dark  calamity  would 
indeed  have  proved  a “ blessing  in  disguise.” 

But  to  return  to  our  local  work.  In  1883  three  pupils 
were  graduated  from  one  of  the  schools,  and  put  in  training 
for  teachers.  Several  attempts  have  been  made  at  teaching 
English,  but  there  is  no  demand  for  it  here,  and  the  pupils 
take  no  interest  in  the  study ; but  they  never  tire  of  the 
Bible,  and  their  Scripture  lessons  are  taught  to  them  as  the 
most  important  of  their  studies,  and  not  merely  slipped  in 
among  the  rest.  The  pupils  attend  church  and  Sabbath- 
school,  and  lately  nine  of  them  have  been  baptized.  W ednes- 
day  services  are  held  at  the  district  school-houses.  Many 
gospels  and  tracts  are  there  disposed  of,  and  the  good  seed 
of  the  Word  scattered  far  and  v\nde.  For  the  sake  of  hun- 
dreds of  interested  friends  who  have  followed  our  work  in 
Petchahuree  for  the  past  decade,  I will  here  insert  the 
names  of  our  schools,  with  the  number  of  pupils,  according 
to  the  latest  report : Howard  Industrial,  54 — the  pupils 
were  gathered  from  several  of  the  other  schools ; Glendale, 
72 ; Bethany,  19  ; Colorado,  15  ; Market  Street,  25  ; Gra- 
ham, 20  ; Hunter,  16  ; Dr.  Sturge’s  Boys’  Schools,  47 ; and 
since  then  the  Hardin  School  has  been  opened  with  19 
pupils. 

In  this  year  of  1885  the  work  still  goes  on,  ever  widening 


OUR  SCHOOLS  IN  SIAM. 


311 


and  deepening.  "W^lierever  a chapel  is  built  in  the  village 
there  is  a call  for  a new  school,  and  we  cannot  fiirnish 
teachers  enough  to  supply  the  demand,  hut  we  try  to  be 
patient  and  look  forth  with  hope  and  courage. 

In  1877  a new  building  was  erected  in  Petehahuree  for 
a boarding-school  and  or|5hanage,  and  a refuge  for  homeless 
women  and  girls.  As  I have  already  said,  the  king  gave 
$1,000,  and  some  of  his  noblemen  contributed  $1,200.  The 
structure  cost  about  $4,500,  and  is  large  enough  to  furnish 
a home  for  the  missionary  teachers ; wide,  pleasant  dormi- 
tories for  fifty  or  sixty  pupils ; two  school-rooms,  and  a 
chapel  for  morning  and  home  services.  As  the  highest 
number  never  exceeded  twenty,  it  has  not  yet  proved  a 
success  as  a boarding-school.  TTe  can  hardly  persuade  the 
natives  to  live  in  the  house  with  us,  and  to  sleep  up-stairs. 
They  are  afraid  of  the  night,  and  of  evil  spirits  which  they 
believe  fioat  round  in  the  upper  air,  and,  according  to  native 
custom,  masters  and  teachers  should  always  occupy  the 
upper  rooms  of  a house  (that  nothing  inferior  may  be  above 
their  heads),  while  pupils  and  servants  are  kept  below,  and 
our  attempts  to  make  Western  ideas  prevail  have  not  been 
a success.  They  like  their  own  native  bamboo  huts  best. 
Besides,  we  have  never  been  able  to  find  a matron  like 
Ma  Tuan  of  Bangkok,  nor  parents  willing  to  consign  their 
children  to  us  for  a term  of  years  as  they  do  there.  But 
we  can  wait  and  hope  for  better  days. 

]\Iy  faith  is  strong  enough  to  see  in  the  future  a large  and 
flourishing  Girls’  Boarding-School  in  Petchaburee.  We 
must  have  it,  not  only  for  girls,  but  one  for  boys  also. 
There  is  no  other  way  to  reach  the  children  of  our  clusrch 
members  scattered  abroad  on  farms  and  in  fishing  villages. 
If  neglected  the  boys  will  drift  into  the  Buddhist  temple 
schools,  and  the  girls  grow  up  in  ignorance. 

An  interesting  work  has  sprung  up  among  the  Laos  of 
the  province.  Mrs.  Dr.  McFarland  in augm-ated  it.  Schools 


312 


SIAM. 


Lave  been  opened  and  carried  on  with  flnctnating  success 
At  present  we  Lave  a few  Laos  girls  and  quite  a number  of 
boys  in  the  boarding  departments.  The  future  will  reveal 
better  and  more  earnest  work  among  this  peculiarly  attract- 
ive people. 

Years  hence  new  missionaries  may  find  much  to  criticise 
in  the  work  and  methods  of  their  predecessors ; but  they 
should  not  forget  that  laying  foundations  is  hard  work,  and 
that  until  a nation  is  prepared  for  radical  changes,  it  is 
much  easier  to  criticise  than  to  correct  or  improve  the  at- 
temjAs  made  by  those  who  did,  not  what  they  would,  but 
what  they  could.  “ The  life-work  of  a missionary  at  longest 
is  so  soon  over ; at  the  moment  often  when  one  seems  fully 
trained  and  skillful,  he  is  set  aside  and  another  less  skillful 
takes  up  the  work.  Or,  however  serviceable  the  work  has 
seemed,  yet  the  growth  of  wisdom  puts  it  all  to  shame, 
so  that  one  is  tempted  to  regard  it  as  latterly  useless.  Im- 
proved methods  of  work,  new  ardor  in  the  workers,  and 
grand  new  successes  cast  a suspicion  of  failure  on  all  that 
has  preceded  them.  Yet  the  poorer  work  of  the  pioneers 
may  have  been  the  sufficient  scaffolding,  and  in  ways  we 
know  not  of,  onr  failures  are  worked  into  the  texture  of 
the  eternal  plans,  which  cannot  fail  and  never  falter.” 

I am  glad  to  know  there  are  many  who  not  only  have 
faith  in  mission  work,  but  also  patience  to  wait  for  its  out- 
come. How  foolish  to  expect  every  pupil  in  these  schools 
of  heathen  to  turn  out  well.  How  many  of  those  in  the 
schools  of  Christian  America  become  what  they  ought  to 
be,  considering  the  time,  toil,  and  money  expended  on 
them  ? The  good  seed  often  lies  dormant  in  the  heart  for 
years,  but  it  does  not  die.  “ God’s  word  shall  not  return 
unto  Him  void.”  Hundreds  have  drifted  through  our 
mission-schools,  of  whom  we  now  have  no  trace  what- 
ever— we  have  even  forgotten  their  names  and  faces ; yet 
we  beheve  that  each  one  of  them  had  tasted  of  “ morsels 


OUR  SCHOOLS  IN  SIAM. 


313 


of  bread  wbicli  tbe  Master  had  blessed  and  broken,”  and 
that  they  carried  in  their  hearts,  ont  into  the  heathen 
world,  some  germ  which,  if  they  are  God’s  elect.  He  will 
yet  quicken  to  His  honor  and  glory.  The  missionaries 
believe  there  are  thousands  of  secret  disciples  in  India ; 
there  may  be  hundreds  in  Siam. 

“ Where  we  but  see  the  darkness  of  the  mine, 

God  sees  the  diamond  shine ; 

Where  we  can  only  clustering  leaves  behold, 

He  sees  the  bud  they  fold. 

We  only  see  the  rude  and  outer  strife: 

God  knows  the  inner  life; 

And  those  from  whom,  like  Pharisees,  we  shrink. 

With  Christ  may  eat  and  drink.” 


14 


CHAPTEE  XXXY. 


MEDICAL  inSSIOHS. 

In  the  third  annual  report  of  Dr.  Ernest  A.  Sturge,  of 
Petchaburee,  he  says : 

“ Medical  mission  work  is  as  old  as  the  Gospel  dispensation. 
Our  Saviour  Himself  was  the  first  medical  missionaiy,  and  the 
early  disciples  followed  closely  in  His  footsteps,  holding  in  their 
divinely-joined  relationship  preaching  and  healing.  Statistics 
prove  that  where  these  two  agencies  ai’e  properly  combined  the 
work  is  most  successful.” 

I notice  in  connection  with  the  work  in  South  China, 

— “every  attempt  to  get  hold  of  a new  city  failed  until  our 
medical  missionaries  first  won  the  confidence  of  the  people  by 
heahng,  or  at  least  relieving,  cases  where  the  skill  of  the  native 
physicians  would  not  avail.  ” “ Even  while  the  heathen  through 
prejudice  stand  aloof  from  the  preacher,  they  will  seek  the  phy- 
sician more  and  more  after  he  has  performed  some  of  those 
cures  which  to  them  seem  almost  supernatural.” 

The  very  earliest  missionaries  to  Siam  were  also  doctors 
of  medicine,  and  while  preaching  Christ  for  the  salvation 
of  the  soul,  they  practiced  medicine  for  the  healing  of  the 
body.  The  natives  to  this  day  call  aU  missionaries  “A/bio,” 
the  Siamese  word  for  doctor,  and  they  expect  to  get  medi- 
cines whenever  they  come  and  ask  for  them.  Indeed,  the 
missionaries  are  expected  to  cure,  prevent,  or  produce  aU 
manner  of  impossible  things.  As  early  as  1828  Dr.  Karl 
Gutzlaff  reached  Bangkok,  and  began  to  dispense  medicines 
and  to  care  for  the  sick  and  suffering.  He  was  followed 
by  Dr.  David  Abeel,  and  later  by  Dr.  D.  B.  Bradley,  who 
(314) 


MEDICAL  MISSIONS. 


315 


a few  days  after  his  arrival  was  taken  to  call  upon  a Sia- 
mese nobleman,  who  began  to  question  him  at  once  as  to  his 
purpose  in  coming  to  Bangkok.  He  also  asked  Dr.  B.  if 
he  had  any  vaccine  virus,  and  if  he  could  cure  small-pox 
and  cholera,  and  amputate  tumors,  legs,  and  arms?  He 
also  expressed  his  sorrow  that  the  doctor  had  not  come  a 
little  sooner  that  he  might  have  saved  the  hfe  of  the  second 
king,  who  had  recently  died  of  cholera.  About  a week 
later  he  was  requested  in  the  name  of  the  king  to  go  imme- 
diately and  try  his  skill  on  a company  of  slaves  and  captives 
who  were  sick  of  small-pox  and  cholera.  On  the  way  he 
was  told  that  the  king  did  not  care  much  for  these  people, 
and  therefore  he  was  willing  to  let  him  experiment  on 
them  first,  and  if  he  proved  skillful  the  great  men  would 
employ  him.  Dr.  B.  found  them  thickly  huddled  together 
on  the  damp  ground  under  boat-sheds.  They  seemed  quite 
destitute  of  food,  and  had  neither  nurse  nor  friend  to  care 
for  them.  Many  were  in  the  last  stages  of  spasmodic 
cholera,  others  very  low  with  small-pox,  and  some  deplor- 
ably wretched  with  other  diseases.  Although  the  prospect 
was  so  discouraging,  he  ventured  to  prescribe  for  some  of 
them.  All  were  exceedingly  anxious  to  obtain  medicine, 
thinking  it  had  power  almost  to  restore  life  to  the  dead. 
The  doctor  returned  home,  thinking  the  king  would  not  be 
likely  to  prize  his  humble  talents  as  a physician  since  he 
stood  so  powerless  among  those  dying  slaves.  But  on  the 
5th  of  August,  1835,  he  opened  a dispensary,  and  on  the 
22d  he  wrote : “ The  sick  crowd  upon  me,  our  compound 
being  literally  filled  from  sunrise  to  sunset  with  wretchedly 
diseased  bodies  and  priceless  souls,  who  are  as  sheep  with- 
out a shepherd.”  His  work  and  his  fame  increased  till  he 
soon  had  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  patients  daily.  His 
first  surgical  operation  was  for  the  removal  of  an  ulcerated 
tumor,  which  completely  covered  the  left  eye  of  the 
patient.  He  felt  not  a little  nervous  about  it,  lest  the 


316 


SIAM. 


astonished  multitude  who  witnessed  the  operation  should 
.-publish  evil  reports.  It  was,  however,  quite  successful. 
' There  was  a great  desire  among  all  who  could  read  to  get 
books ; some  even  feigned  sickness  and  took  loathsome 
medicines  that  they  might  be  entitled  to  a tract.  He  was  one 
day  called  upon  to  prescribe  for  a Chow  Phayah,  a man  high 
in  authority.  He  had  a disease  in  his  legs  of  twenty  yeacs’ 
standing.  But  he  would  only  consent  to  have  one  leg 
treated.  He  said  he  would  wait  and  see  what  the  foreign 
doctor  would  do  with  that  first.  He  experienced  so  much 
relief  at  once  that  the  next  day  he  gave  him  charge  of 
both.  In  three  days  the  patient  presented  the  doctor  with 
delicious  fruits  in  token  of  thankfulness,  and  in  eight  days 
sent  him  word  that  he  was  well,  with  many  thanks  and  a 
request  that  the  doctor  shoidd  attend  him  in  future  if  he 
had  need. 

Dr.  Bradley  had  the  honor  of  introducing  vaccination. 
It  was  first  successful  in  1810,  and  since  then  has  increased 
in  favor  more  and  more.  The  people  have  no  superstitious 
fear  of  it  here  as  they  have  in  India,  where  they  say  “ one 
of  their  gods,  Krishnu,  is  to  become  incarnate,  and  will 
have  milk  in  his  veins  instead  of  blood,  and  the  English, 
knowing  this,  have  adopted  vaccination  as  a mode  of  find- 
^ng  Krishnu,  and  when  they  find  him  will  kill  him.” 
j Dr.  House  came  to  Siam  in  18I7  and  found  plenty  of 
/ work,  for  during  the  first  eighteen  months  he  treated  3,117 
' patients;  but  after  a few  years  he  gave  up  his  medical 
practice  entii-ely,  much  to  the  regret  of  all.  He,  however, 
spent  a long  life,  some  thirty  years,  laboring  for  the  spult- 
ual  welfare  of  the  natives,  and  still  lives  to  pray  for  their 
salvation. 

The  next  physician  who  labored  any  length  of  time  was 
Dr.  M.  A.  Cheek,  who  from  1871:  to  1883  helped  battle 
with  disease  and  superstition  among  the  Laos,  a people 
tributary  to  Siam.  He  labored  under  many  disadvantages. 


MEDICAL  MISSIONS. 


317 


having  at  first  no  hospital,  assistants,  or  nurses.  He  came 
equipped  with  neither  medical  nor  surgical  outfit.  He 
studied  the  language,  and  threw  himself  into  the  work, 
adapting  himself  as  much  as  possible  to  the  circumstances. 
Patients  were  treated  and  served  on  his  veranda,  his  wife  help- 
ing to  distribute  medicines  and  food,  and  often  acting  as  in- 
terpreter ; being  a daughter  of  Dr.  Bradley,  she  knew  the 
Siamese  language  perfectly,  and  could  easily  adapt  herself 
to  the  somewhat  similar  tones  and  expressions  of  the  Laos. 
In  time  a bamboo  hospital  was  put  up,  and  the  work  in- 
creased year  by  year.  He  taught  the  natives  to  help  him, 
and  in  1882  he  wrote  : 

“ The  last  year  has  been  one  of  almost  ceaseless  toil.  Tire 
number  who  have  received  medicines  directly  or  indirectly,  is 
about  13,000,  and  applicants  for  medicines  and  advice  have,  in 
many  cases,  come  from  districts  from  which  we  had  not  previ- 
ously had  patients.  Many  of  the  princes,  and  others,  from  the 
city  and  in  our  immediate  neighborhood,  who  had  kept  aloof 
from  any  contamination  with  the  hated  foreigner,  have  been 
compelled  to  seek,  for  themselves  or  their  slaves,  the  remedy 
which  had  proved  to  be  life-saving  to  so  many  others.  Hence 
the  foreign  medicines  have  been  more  generally  and  more 
thorougldy  tested  than  ever  before,  and  then-  effects,  contrast- 
ed vdth  the  native  methods  of  combating  disease — mcantations, 
spirit  worship,  sacred  water,  with  or  without  some  rude  empiri- 
cism with  native  herbs,  the  hones,  teeth,  and  gall  of  various 
reptiles  and  mammals — have  given  them  a wide  recommenda- 
tion. 

“ The  Laos  believe  all  disorders  of  the  human  body  to  be  due 
directly  to  the  influence  of  offended  spirits ; the  theory  is  com- 
])rehensive  and  the  method  of  ti’eatment  logical.  Strange  to  say, 
tlie  results  are  not  always  satisfactory.  With  a fidelity  to  their 
theory  ‘worthy  of  a better  cause,’  they  attribute  any  want  of 
success  to  some  neglect  in  the  ceremonies  observed — there  was 
not  enough  of  them — rather  than  to  anything  defective  m the  sys- 
tem. But  notwithstanding  the  capacity  of  the  average  Laosian 
for  general  credulity  and  his  special  readiness  to  accept  whatever 
ahsui'dity  he  believes  to  be  supematm’al,  spu-it  worsliip  in  the 


318 


S/AM. 


treatment  of  diseases  has  lost  some  of  its  sanctity,  and  many, 
even  of  the  heathen,  have  entu’ely  renoimced  it.  By  breaking 
down  these  superstitions,  oiir  medical  system  removes  a chief 
obstacle  to  Cliristianity. 

“ One  singular  superstition  of  the  Laos  is  their  behef  in  vritch- 
craft.  This  is  one  of  the  greatest  social  evils,  and  involves  more 
serious  injirry  than  all  other  behefs  and  practices  combined. 
It  is  a greater  evil  even  than  the  vicious  misrule  of  ignorant 
Laos  princes.  The  people  believe  that  the  sphit  of  one  person 
may  enter  another  and  urflict  serious  injm’ies,  and  even  destroy 
life.  Anything  like  hysteria  is  considered  a sure  indication  that 
the  patient  is  ‘ possessed.  ’ Tlie  exorcism  involves  a practice  full 
of  savage  cruelty  to  the  patient,  and  barbarous  injustice  to  the 
mifortunate  neighbor  who  is  accused  of  bewitching  him. 

“ There  are  some  discom-agements  connected  wdth  the  medical 
work.  First,  too  small  a proportion  of  those  receiving  medi- 
cines really  come  witliin  our  reach.  Friends  of  the  sick  come 
and  describe  the  sjmiptoms,  and  from  the  information  obtainable 
in  this  exceedingly  unsatisfactory  way,  a conclusion  must  be 
aiTived  at  and  a prescription  made.  The  I’esults  of  such  treat- 
ment could  not  be  very  highly  satisfactory,  even  with  intelli- 
gent nui-sing  and  faithful  observance  of  (hrections.  The  mu-siug 
of  the  sick  among  the  Laos  is  of  a kind  to  insure  the  recoveiy 
of  none  but  the  sti’ongest.  To  any  one  acquainted  with  the 
careful  and  skillful  nursing  of  a well-conducted  American  hos- 
pital, or  the  kind  and  loving  attentions  of  the  sick-chamber  in 
our  homes,  it  would  seem  almost  impossible  that  any  one  should 
recover  under  the  rough  treatment  practiced  liere.  In  very 
many  cases  my  dhections  are  followed  ^vith  a degree  of  freedom 
which  is  often  amusiug.  Besides  consulting  the  inclinations  of 
the  patient,  and  the  ad\’ice  of  neighbors  and  friends,  and  then 
making  some  kind  of  a compromise  between  these  and  my  iu- 
structions,  spirit  worship  is  also  considei*ed  an  essential  part  of 
the  ti’eatment.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  prevent  this  sorceiy 
m cases  to  w'hich  I attend  personally  in  the  houses  of  the  sick, 
and  it  is  highly  improbable  that  one  in  a hundred  neglects  some 
spirit-offerings  dming  illness,  or  ‘ a bribe  to  the  spirits,’  to  use  a 
hteral  translation  of  the  Laos.  In  all  these  cases,  of  couree,  re- 
covery is  attributed  partially  to  the  si)irits,  and  the  results  are 
equally  unfortunate  from  a professional  and  missionary  pouit 
of  view. 


MEDICAL  MISSIONS. 


319 


“ During  last  year  I was  requested  to  attend  a princess,  the 
wife  of  the  chief,  in  a prolonged  and  dangerous  illness.  She 
recovered,  and  after  her  restoration  half  a month  was  con- 
sumed in  making  preparations  for  a thank-offering ; many  pres- 
ents were  distributed  among  the  priests,  and  readings  from  the 
Buddha  scriptures  were  attended  by  the  princess  and  all  her 
relatives  for  two  days.  Not  one  woi’d  of  thanks  was  considered 
due  to  the  foreign  doctor.  The  utter  absence  of  gratitude  in  the 
Laos  heart  is,  I believe,  conceded  by  all  to  be  one  of  their  most 
characteristic  features. 

“Notwithstanding  all  the  discouraging  aspects  of  the  work 
here,  and  all  the  inconveniences  of  living  in  so  isolated  a place, 
and  the  inconsiderable  success  of  the  medical  work,  still  there 
is  much  to  encourage  us  as  we  look  back  over  the  history  of  the 
past  year;  through  all  these  months  of  toil  and  ill-health  we 
have  been  strengthened  and  cheered  by  the  many  promises  of 
Him  whose  command  is,  ‘ Go  ye  mto  all  the  world  and  preach 
the  Gospel  to  eveiy  creatiire.’  ” 

At  present  there  is  no  medical  missionary  in  Bangkok. 
There  are  several  foreign  physicians,  however,  who  practice 
for  their  own  private  interests,  and  one  native.  Dr.  Tein 
Hee,  who  received  his  medical  training  in  America.  He 
acquired  his  earlier  education  at  the  missionary  boarding- 
school  in  Bangkok,  and  was  afterward  graduated,  through 
the  kind  aid  of  a Christian  gentleman,  from  the  medical 
school  of  the  University  of  the  City  of  Hew  York.  He  is 
now  in  the  employ  of  the  king,  and  has  charge  of  a hospi- 
tal for  sixty  patients  that  was  erected  and  given  for  the  use 
of  the  public  by  a native  nobleman.  During  the  late  preva- 
lence of  cholera  dispensaiies  were  opened,  by  order  of  the 
king,  in  different  parts  of  the  capital,  where  the  sick  could 
obtain  medicines  free,  and  I have  no  doubt  many  lives  were 
saved.  The  medical  work  appeals  strongly  to  the  interest 
and  sympathy  of  the  natives,  and  I do  not  hesitate  to  say 
that  a hospital  in  Bangkok  could  be  supported  by  the  con- 
tributions of  the  benevolent,  just  as  the  same  work  is  main- 
tained in  Canton,  China,  and  has  been  for  years.  Although 


320 


SIAM. 


Bangkok  is  one  of  tlie  liealtliiest  of  Oriental  cities,  a hospi- 
tal is  greatly  needed.  Indeed  the  city  should  have  several 
of  them,  and  there  should  be  asylums  for  all  classes  of 
■wretched  humanity,  and  especially  for  the  insane,  who  are 
now  allowed  to  wander  about  as  they  please,  or  are  kept  in 
confinement  at  temples  or  private  dwellings,  and  no  at- 
tempts are  ever  made  to  cure  them. 

Dr.  Ernest  A.  Sturge  came  to  Siam  in  1880,  and  has  oc- 
cupied the  Petchaburee  station  ever  since.  The  first  year 
he  had  no  hospital,  and  the  cholera  raged  for  months.  The 
sick  and  dj’ing  were  aU  about  us,  on  our  verauda  and  in  our 
very  rooms.  W e received  them  until  our  hands  were  more 
than  full,  but  the  terror-stricken  natives  were  helpless  and 
useless  before  the  terrible  scourge.  TTe  were  imprudent, 
I acknowledge,  doctor  and  all,  and  we  would  ad'vise  no  one 
else  to  follow  our  example.  But  God  kept  us  in  safety, 
and  verified  the  rich  promise  of  deliverance  “from  the 
noisome  pestilence,”  and  we  were  not  afraid  “ for  the  ter- 
ror by  night  ” “ nor  for  the  destruction  that  wasteth  at  noon- 
day.” Scores  and  hundreds  all  about  us  died,  but  not  one 
of  those  whom  we  received  into  our  house ; and  the  ma- 
jority of  all  who  were  ■willing  to  accept,  and  who  followed 
Dr.  Sturge’s  directions,  recovered. 

Home  physicians  do  not  sufficiently  appreciate  the  intel- 
ligence of  the  sick,  and  them  friends  and  nurses  who  do  as 
they  are  told,  and  thus  help  in  the  restoration  of  every  pa- 
tient. All  this  is  wanting  in  heathen  lands,  and  cases  are 
not  unknown  where  the  medicine  has  been  rubbed  on  the 
outside  and  the  mustard  plaster  eaten,  or  the  quinine  di- 
vided and  half  taken  before  the  ague  chill  and  half  after. 

^Vhen  Dr.  S.  began  his  work  the  natives  were  afraid,  aud 
yet  the  first  year  he  had  over  1,300  patients.  Fearing  they 
would  consider  him  mercenary  if  he  charged  for  drugs, 
according  to  the  custom  already  established  at  the  station, 
he  gav’e  away  all  his  medicines  and  had  no  fees ; but  he 


MEDICAL  MISSIONS. 


321 


found  that  tlie  voluntary  gifts  of  tlie  natives  amounted  to 
less  than  three  dollars  for  the  year,  so  willing  were  they  to 
reap  the  benefit  of  their  supposed  merit.  But  now  better 
counsels  prevail,  and  he  is  even  more  willing  to  receive 
than  they  are  to  give.  Missionaries  always  find  in  dealing 
with  any  people,  that  they  appreciate  and  prize  most  that 
wdiich  costs  them  something.  The  next  year  he  built  a 
hospital,  having  received  a donation  for  it  from  a relative 
in  England.  During  the  twelvemonth  he  ti’eated  4,552 
patients,  and  the  work  is  constantly  increasing,  and  the 
spiritual  results  are  becoming  manifest.  His  fame  has 
spread  abroad.  Thousands  of  natives  have  been  helped  or 
cured  through  his  care  and  medicines.  The  influence  of 
his  work  has  been  to  disarm  opposition  to  missionary  labor, 
and  to  gather  many  about  us  as  friends  who,  but  for  him, 
might  never  have  come  near  our  compound.*  But  I will 
quote  again  from  his  report,  as  he  gives  a better  record  of 
his  own  work  than  I could  write  : 

“ In  establishing  a hospital  in  Petchaburee  our  object  was  not 
only  to  give  bodily  healing  to  the  people,  but  also  to  bring  the 
life-giving  Gospel  to  many  who  would  not  otherwise  be  reached ; 
to  break  down  any  opposition  which  might  exist,  and  raise  the 
company  of  missionaries  in  the  estimation  of  the  natives,  who 
appreciate  the  services  of  a physician  more  than  the  preaching 
of  the  Gospel.  Every  morning,  except  Sabbath,  dhectly  after 
chapel  service,  the  dispensary  is  open  to  all  afflicted  ones  from 
eight  o’clock  until  noon.  The  number  who  have  received  benefit 
the  past  year  is  as  follows:  At  the  dispensary — Siamese  men 
1,637,  Siamese  women  1,431;  Chinese,  685;  Laos,  306;  Buddhist 
priests,  209;  Hindoos,  12;  Burmese,  60;  sirrgical  operations,  140; 
vaccinations,  78;  professional  visits  to  homes,  814;  total,  5,372. 
Among  the  patients  were  twelve  Chinamen  treated  for  the 
opium  habit.  Of  these,  three  have  returned  saying  they  have 
enthely  left  off  the  use  of  the  deadly  drug.  The  result  of  the 
other  cases  is  unknown.  The  principal  diseases  were  what  one 

* Texts  of  Scripture  are  printed  on  the  prescription  papers. 

14* 


322 


S/AM. 


would  exjiect  to  find  in  a moist,  tropical  climate,  among  a poor 
people,  namely : malaria  in  its  various  forms,  dysentery,  rheu- 
matism, and  skin  diseases.  The  surgical  operations  were  small, 
and  worthy  of  little  notice.  The  total  expense  of  the  hospital 
for  1883  was  834  ticals  and  two  salungs,  equal  to  $500.70;  sale 
of  medicines,  130  ticals,  or  $78.  There  were  thu’ty  in-patients, 
of  whom  five  confessed  conversion.  One  of  them  wishes  to 
study  for  the  ministry.  He  has  already  been  the  means  of 
bringing  several  of  his  relatives  to  the  Saviour.  Of  the  out- 
patients, two  received  baptism  in  their  homes,  being  too  ill  to 
come  to  the  chapel.  One  of  these  died  shortly  after  being  bap- 
tized, fij’mly  trusting  in  Jesus.  The  other  one  is  now  much 
improved  in  health,  though  still  unable  to  walk.  He  is  doing 
much  good  in  his  village,  Paktalay,  telling  othei's  of  his  new- 
found joy.  At  our  last  communion  two  others  received  bap- 
tism who  were  first  brought  to  a knowledge  of  the  truth  through 
benefits  received  at  the  dispensary.  Tracts  were  given  to  many, 
and  much  good  may  have  been  done  through  their  teachings.” 

Medical  missions  present  a wide  and  inviting  field  to  the 
yonng  doctors  graduating  from  the  home  schools.  There 
is  neither  crowding  nor  lack  of  patients,  and  every  man 
who  devotes  his  life  to  such  a work  is  sure  to  become 
famous.  Who  does  not  covet  the  golden  opportunities 
well  improved  of  such  men  as  Dr.  David  Livingstone ; 
Di*.  Hepburn,  of  Japan ; Dr.  Kerr,  of  Canton ; Dr.  Yan 
Dycke,  of  BejTout ; and  the  late  Drs.  Southon  and  Cal- 
houn, and  a host  of  others,  noble  men,  whose  records  are 
in  heaven  and  on  earth  ! 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


* LIFE  ON  THE  COMPOHND. 

A “mission  compound”  includes  all  inside  of  the  enclos- 
ui’e  of  the  mission  premises.  Ours  at  Petchaburee  covers 
several  acres,  and  is  very  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  and  a little  below  the  city.  There  are  three 
good  dwelling-houses  for  missionaries,  large,  cool,  and  com- 
fortable ; two  of  them  are  built  of  brick  and  have  tile  roofs ; 
the  other  is  wood,  thatched  with  a^teyi-palm  leaves. 

The  “ Petchaburee  Home  ” is  quite  large,  with  rooms 
for  boarding  pupils  and  teachers,  and  a chapel  that  fronts 
the  river,  where  we  meet  every  day  for  morning  prayers. 
Besides  these  there  is  the  new  brick  hospital,  a room  for 
the  industrial  school,  and  in  the  back-yard  there  is  a cluster 
of  native  houses,  occupied  by  the  families  of  native  preach- 
ers, teachers,  servants,  etc.  As  they  are  directly  under  our 
care,  we  hope  better  things  of  them  than  of  those  who  live 
outside.  Many  of  them  own  the  houses  in  which  they  live ; 
others  occupy  huts  belonging  to  us.  Of  course  these  peo- 
ple are  not  all  Christians,  but  they  are  expected  to  abide  by 
the  rules  of  the  compound,  which  are  these : All  must  at- 
tend religious  services,  observe  the  Sabbath,  be  careful  not 
to  quarrel  or  swear,  be  in  by  nine  o’clock  at  night,  not  steal 
from  each  other  or  from  us.  All  who  cannot  read  are  ex- 
pected to  come  to  school  until  they  learn.  They  must  re- 
ceive and  lodge  no  strangers  without  permission,  and  they 
must  not  gather  the  fruit  or  flowers  in  our  gardens,  or  hang 
about  our  kitchens,  or  borrow  utensils  from  the  cook.  They 
must  not  worship  idols,  nor  engage  in  their  heathenish  rites 

(323) 


324 


SIAM. 


in  tlie  compound,  and  all  must  wear  clothes.  This  last  is, 
I believe,  the  very  hardest  to  make  them  do.  Of  all  the 
missionaries  who  have  ever  hved  here,  no  one  has  ever  yet 
succeeded  in  making  them  obey  this  rule.  Parents  and 
servants  are  talked  to,  and  children  are  switched,  and  yet 
almost  every  day  some  ebony  cnpid  has  to  be  sent  home  to 
he  dressed.  "W e have  a watchman  who  is  expected  to  patrol 
the  premises  all  night  and  see  that  there  are  no  thefts  or 
fires.  He  locks  all  the  gates  at  dusk  except  one,  and  that 
is  closed  at  half-past  nine,  and  should  not  he  opened  again 
till  the  next  morning.  There  are  no  foreigners  in  the  city 
to  visit  us,  and  the  natives  should  have  no  business  in  or 
out  after  that  time,  unless  they  are  sick  and  come  to  see  the 
doctor.  There  is  almost  always  some  one  sick  in  the  com- 
pound. W e try  to  teach  them  to  eat  regularly  tliree  times 
a day,  but  they  do  not  try  to  control  their  appetites,  and 
eat  at  all  hours,  and  all  sorts  of  trash,  sweet  and  sour,  ripe 
and  unripe  fruits.  They  usually  boil  rice  once  a day,  in 
the  morning,  and  then  eat  what  is  left  cold.  Sometimes  it 
is  not  cooked  enough,  and  it  swells  in  the  stomach,  causing 
great  distress.  Then  they  send  in  great  haste  for  the  doc- 
tor, or  to  beg  some  medicine.  They  are  just  like  a lot  of 
overgrown  children,  and  a great  deal  harder  to  manage  be- 
cause they  think  they  are  “ big  folks.”  Some  imagine  they 
can  do  as  they  please,  so  long  as  the  missionaries  do  not 
know  of  it ; and  they  become  so  angry  at  any  one  who  tells 
of  their  misdemeanors,  that  many  of  the  best  cannot  be  in- 
duced to  tell  what  they  know  even  when  cited  as  witnesses. 

In  some  of  the  houses  you  will  find  an  old  heathen 
grandmother,  who  thinks  she  has  a right  to  control  every- 
thing. These  poor  old  creatures  interfere  a great  deal  with 
the  progress  of  Christianity.  Their  children  may  be  con- 
verts and  desire  to  bring  up  their  little  ones  in  the  fear  of 
the  Lord,  but  the  grandmother,  or  “ as  they  call  her, 
has  the  care  of  the  children  while  the  parents  are  at  work. 


LIFE  ON  THE  COMPOUND. 


325 


and  teaches  them  all  sorts  of  superstitions,  and  takes  them 
with  her  to  the  heathen  temple.  She  makes  them  afraid  of 
evil  spirits  and  fills  their  young  minds  with  frightful  tales. 
If  they  ai’e  sick  she  wants  to  change  their  names,  although 
they  have  already  been  baptized.  She  ties  charm-strings 
about  them,  and  puts  iron  rings  on  their  ankles,  and  ties 
the  heads  of  field-beetles  about  their  wrists.  They  shave 
the  head,  and  leave  little  tufts  of  hair  here  and  there  as 
charms  against  the  evil  one.  After  seeing  Siamese  young- 
sters with  little  tufts  scattered  promiscuously  over  their 
heads,  one  can  have  a clearer  understanding  of  Samson’s 
“ seven  locks.”  These  old  grandmothers  cling  with  the  ut- 
most persistency  to  old  customs,  and  when  we  try  to  tell 
them  they  are  hurtful,  they  say,  “ My  mother  raised  me 
that  way,  and  I have  lived  to  be  old  as  you  see.”  They 
never  mention  all  the  brothers,  and  sisters,  and  neighbors’ 
children  who  have  died  under  the  treatment,  but  because 
they  did  not  die  themselves,  they  contend  that  the  old  ways 
are  best.  They,  too,  are  the  most  persistent  advocates  of 
“ cummin  ” versus  clothes.  In  their  day  babies  were  all 
besmirched  with  yellow  powder,  and  this,  ^rith  their  gold 
and  silver  ornaments  and  charm  - strings,  was  considered 
enough.  Jsow,  that  all  must  wear  clothes  too,  is  in  their 
eyes  a most  needless  superfluity.  They  contend  that  the 
cummin  makes  the  body  sweet  and  keeps  off  the  mos- 
quitoes, and  the  idea  of  dress  for  modesty’s  sake  is  entirely 
beyond  their  comprehension.  They  also  teach  the  young- 
sters that  there  is  no  beauty  without  black  teeth  and 
mouths  full  of  betel.  But  nevertheless  we  take  com-age 
by  the  contrast  between  the  parents  and  the  grandparents, 
and  hope  the  next  generation  will  be  many  grades  higher 
still.  It  will  be  impossible  for  the  children  in  our  mission- 
schools  to  become  old  folks  like  that  class  who  are  now  fast 
dying  out.  As  a rule  old  folks  will  not  listen  to  our  teach- 
ings. They  say,  “We  are  too  old  to  change;  please  let  us 


326 


SIAM. 


be ; we  cannot  understand  the  new  way  of  salvation,  and  we 
dare  not  throw'  away  the  merit  we  have  made  in  all  the 
past.”  For  this  reason  there  is  only  here  and  there  a gray 
head  in  all  the  conwre^ations. 

O 55 

I thank  God  day  after  day  that  I was  not  born  a Siamese, 
and  yet  the  Lord  has  thoughts  of  mercy  and  love  toward 
them,  and  it  is  being  manifested  in  these  latter  times.  One 
wild  olive-branch  after  another  is  being  grafted  in,  and  the 
wound  in  the  Saviour’s  side  is  wide  enough  to  receive 
them  all,  these  heathen  nations,  naughty  branches  which 
ran  wild  in  ages  past.  God  has  sent  us  here  to  gather 
them  up,  and  to  bring  them  in.  The  hope  of  Siam  is  its 
children,  dear  little  black-eyed  creatures,  ready  to  learn  in 
Christ’s  or  Satan’s  school. 

Siam  is  a pleasant  mission  field,  healthful,  hopeful,  and 
perhaps  as  home-like  as  any  other  in  the  world,  for  no 
heathen  land  can  be  like  America  till  after  it  is  converted. 
Life  in  a heathen  land  is  very  difierent  from  what  many 
imagine.  There  are,  no  doubt,  personal  suffering,  privation, 
and  exposure  in  some  countries,  but  I have  never  seen  them 
here.  "We  have  good  houses,  with  wide,  cool  verandas. 
They  are  two  stories  high,  and  the  basements  are  used  for 
store-rooms,  school-rooms,  printing-office,  and  hook  deposi- 
tory, while  we  all  live  up-stairs.  This  is  the  coolest  and 
most  healthful  plan.  The  endows  are  all  doors,  and  have 
no  glass,  but  shutters  instead,  that  can  be  opened  or  closed 
to  admit  air  and  keep  out  the  rain.  There  is  no  bell  or 
knocker,  for  the  doors  stand  open  all  day  long,  and  the 
Siamese  usually  cough  as  they  approach,  and  we  expect  no 
other  visitors.  We  have  no  chimneys,  for  we  need  no 
fires.  Our  floors  are  covered  with  Chinese  matting,  and 
we  have  home  and  home-made  furniture  ; some  pictures  on 
the  walls,  and  portraits  of  the  far-away  father  and  mother 
and  other  dear  ones.  The  kitchens  are  sometimes  built  of 
bamboo  and  set  back  a little  from  the  house.  We  have 


LIFE  ON  THE  COMPOUND. 


327 


cook-stoves  from  home  and  ordinary  utensils.  TV^e  do  not 
find  it  incompatible  with  God’s  service  to  supply  ourselves 
with  some  conveniences,  even  though  we,  like  you,  might 
“get  along”  without  them.  We  have  good  food,  plenty 
of  it,  and  cheap,  too ; and  clothing  can  he  either  purchased 
here,  and  made  up  by  yourself  or  native  tailors,  or  sent 
from  home,  having  been  prepared  by  the  hands  of  loving 
friends.  Servants  are  plenty  and  cheap — only  five  or  six 
dollars  a month — and  they  are  just  as  good  as  you  train 
them  to  be.  Many  of  them  are  patient,  faithful,  and  trust- 
worthy ; and  if  they  have  been  with  you  for  several  years, 
they  learn  to  regard  your  goods  as  theirs,  and  are  very 
careful  of  them.  Indeed,  they  are  more  careful  of  some 
things  than  we  would  he,  and  they  can  do  much  better 
marketing  and  buying  native  supplies  than  we  can.  Chick- 
ens are  the  cheapest  meat  we  can  eat.  AYe  often  get  them 
for  six  and  eight  cents  apiece ; so  please  do  not  blame  mis- 
sionaries for  eating  chicken  salads,  stews,  and  curries,  be- 
cause they  camwt  afford  anything  else  ! I must  uot  forget 
to  speak  of  the  delicious  rain-water  we  have  to  drink.  It 
is  caught  in  the  rainy  season  and  filtered  into  large  porous 
jai-s.  These  jars  are  so  large  a man  could  actually  hide  in 
them,  as  in  the  famous  story  of  the  “ Forty  Thieves.”  Al- 
though porous,  they  do  not  seem  to  leak,  and  water  stored 
in  them  keeps  cool  and  sweet  the  whole  year  round.  Fil- 
tering through  sand  and  charcoal  takes  all  the  rain-taste 
away.  Thus  yon  see  we  have  the  purest,  best  water  in  the 
world,  for  it  comes  right  down  from  heaven,  and  is  more 
wholesome  than  ice-water.  There  are  no  springs,  and  well- 
water  is  not  good. 

We  are  so  shut  up  among  the  heathen  here  that  we  must 
make  our  own  little  social  world,  so  national  holidays, 
Christmas,  !N^ew-Year,  birthdays,  and  anniversaries  are  not 
allowed  to  pass  unnoticed.  We  see  each  other  every  day, 
and  we  try  not  to  forget  or  leave  off  the  old  home  manners 


328 


SIAM. 


and  customs.  "We  talk  English  for  onr  own  benefit,  and  to 
help  the  little  children,  if  there  are  any,  to  learn  their 
mother  tongue.  We  must  strive  against  the  native  in- 
fluence, and  do  all  we  can  to  lift  the  people  up  to  the 
Gospel  standard.  Now  and  then  we  take  a holiday,  and 
go  up  the  river  or  to  the  mountains  for  a picnic,  and  once 
in  the  past  ten  years  I have  gone  to  the  seashore  and  spent 
a fortnight  at  Aughin. 

We  have  a semi-monthly  mail  bringing  letters,  maga- 
zines, and  papers,  and  an  occasional  “ box,”  as  a proof  that, 
though  far  away,  we  are  not  forgotten  in  the  old  home  cir- 
cle, We  rise  early  and  breakfast,  then  the  morning  bell 
rings  for  prayers  at  half-])ast  seven.  At  eight  work  begins. 
Mr.  Dunlap  is  off  teaching  or  preaching,  or  has  his  class  of 
theological  students  at  his  study.  Dr.  Sturge  goes  to  his 
hospital  and  receives  patients,  dispensing  medicines,  kind 
words,  and  good  books.  The  ladies  take  charge  of  the 
schools.  Some  are  on  the  compound,  and  others  in  the 
city  must  be  visited. 

It  is  a glorious  thing,  tliis  freedom  which  lets  us  do  all  the 
good  we  can,  and  in  so  many  places.  Single  ladies  are  a 
great  wonder  to  their  heathen  sisters,  and  they  are  often 
asked,  “ Is  it  true  that  you  have  no  master,  and  that  you 
can  go  and  come  and  do  as  you  please  ? ” They  are  bought 
and  sold  and  held  in  cruel  bondage,  and  the  way  the  loving 
husband  exacts  obedience  from  his  wives  is  by  threatening 
to  sell  them.  It  is  the  old,  old  story,  of  man  oppressing 
woman,  that  has  been  enacted  in  every  land  under  the  sun, 
and  would  still  be  the  same  for  us  had  not  Christ  the  Sav- 
iour of  women  appeared  with  His  blessed  Bible  and  the 
golden  rule.  We  never  can  pay  that  lowly  Nazarene  the 
debt  we  owe. 

The  work  of  mission  ladies  is  varied,  and  consists  in 
teaching  schools,  conducting  Bible  and  prayer  meetings, 
\dsitiug  from  house  to  house,  translating  and  distributing 


LIFE  ON  THE  COMPOUND. 


329 


books,  teacbing  the  Christian  women  how  to  take  care  of 
themselves,  their  famihes,  and  homes ; caring  for  the  sick, 
the  d}dng,  and  the  dead ; comforting  the  sorrowing  and 
cherishing  htfle  orphans ; settling  quarrels ; teaching  the 
people  to  work  and  sew,  and  to  make  and  wear  clothes — 
this  last  one  of  the  most  difRcult  branches  we  ever  at- 
tempted ; touring  among  distant  rillages,  and  going  from 
house  to  house  begging  for  pupils,  and  explaining  our  work 
and  good  intentions.  Last,  but  by  no  means  least,  “ keep- 
ing up  an  interest  ” in  home  societies  and  bands  by  writing 
inniunerable  letters,  and  collecting  and  sending  curios- 
ities. It  is  a blessed  work,  and  we  enjoy  it  all  as  done  for 
Christ. 

The  natives  often  ask  permission  to  have  their  weddings 
in  our  houses.  Then  they  bring  in  fresh  flowers  and  green 
branches,  and  make  everything  bright  and  beautiful.  Even 
wedding  presents  are  not  wanting,  for  their  friends  “help 
them,”  as  they  call  it,  by  bringing  useful  things  with  which 
to  set  up  housekeeping.  They  furnish  their  own  refresh- 
ments, and  pass  the  tea  and  cakes  with  evident  enjoyment. 
Of  course  the  ceremony  is  performed  by  the  pastor,  who 
sometimes  adds  a little  lecture  on  the  duties  of  married  life 
to  these  ignorant  ones  who  know  so  little  of  what  is  right 
and  proper.  Sometimes  there  are  funerals,  and  we  must 
always  take  charge  of  them.  The  converts  cannot  bury 
with  Buddhist  customs,  and  they  know  no  others.  We 
have  a little  chapel  and  a quiet  churchyard  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  compound,  and  there  all  our  dead  are  buried. 
Although  this  station  has  been  occupied  for  nearly  a quar- 
ter of  a century,  there  are  no  foreign  graves  among  them. 

We  travel  mostly  by  boat,  but  the  “house  boats”  are 
very  comfortable.  Overland  journeys  are  performed  on 
elephants,  or,  if  not  too  long,  with  horses  or  ox-carts.  At 
this  station  we  never  use  elephants,  but  have  boats,  horses, 
wagons,  and  jinrikishas,  and  hire  ox-carts  when  needed. 


330 


SIAM. 


"W e have  also  a good  cloth  tent  as  a very  comfortable  part  of 
our  camping  outfit.  With  these  we  often  go  to  the  surround- 
ing villages,  and  visit  and  teach  the  country  people.  Quite 
a number  of  them,  hovever,  come  to  church  here,  walk- 
ing from  two  to  ten  miles  and  back  again  the  same  day. 
When  we  celebrate  the  Lord’s  Supper  they  call  it  the 
“ Great  Sabbath,”  and  all  try  to  be  present.  Extra  chairs 
and  benches  are  carried  into  the  chapel,  and  every  place  is 
filled.  These  are  always  glad  and  happy  days  to  the  mis- 
sionary when  he  sees  the  “ work  of  the  Lord  prospering  in 
his  hands.”  When  things  go  smoothly,  and  all  labor  to- 
gether for  the  glory  of  God,  it  is  a pleasure  to  be  vdth 
them,  and  we  feel  that  a blessing  follows  ns  day  by  day. 
But  when  there  are  murmurijigs  and  divisions — when  those 
who  should  be  an  example  of  good  bring  reproach  upon 
the  name  of  Christ — the  clouds  darken  and  the  burden 
grows  almost  too  heavy  to  be  borne.  But  somehow  grace 
and  strength  have  always  been  siifficient,  and  hope  and 
courage  ne\'er  fail.  Among  our  saddest  days  are  those 
when  loved  workers  leave  us  in  search  of  lost  health,  and 
the  brightest  are  when  we  welcome  new  helpers  to  our  lit- 
tle band. 

A mission  compound  soon  becomes  a resort  for  all  in  sor- 
row or  distress.  They  want  refuge  and  a helper.  They 
offer  themselves  and  their  families  and  a life-long  ser’s’ice, 
if  we  will  only  pay  their  debts  and  release  them  from  their 
masters  and  the  payment  of  the  Government  taxes  ! They 
see  us  living  here  without  earning  any  money  in  their  way 
of  working,  and  so  they  imagine  we  have  an  iuexhaustil)le 
treasury  somewhere,  and  that  we  should  draw  from  it  for 
every  one’s  needs.  During  the  day,  when  the  gates  are 
open,  peddlers  of  all  kinds  drift  in,  and  beggars  singing 
their  songs  and  ratthug  bones  and  cymbals  as  an  accom- 
pmimeut ; the  sick  and  wounded,  widows  and  orphans, 
and  \'isitors  from  the  lowliest  to  the  loftiest.  Some  are 


LIFE  ON  THE  COMPOUND. 


331 


earnest  inquirers  after  truth,  others  but  idle  curiosity-seek- 
ers who  wish  to  see  for  themselves  who  and  what  the 
“ farangs  ” (foreigners)  are,  and  what  they  have  in  their 
houses.  Others  will  come  to  purchase  clothing  that  has 
been  made  by  the  pupils  in  the  industrial  school,  and  we 
have  seen  many  a one  pass  out  with  a new  coat  having  a 
copy  of  the  Gospel  in  its  pocket. 

Several  times  have  the  people  of  the  province  thrown 
written  papers  full  of  complaiuts  into  our  yard,  begging 
that  we  take  their  part  against  the  cruel  oppression  of  Gov- 
ernment officers.  The  governor  and  lieutenant-governor 
often  come  followed  by  trains  of  servants.  When  the  king 
came  to  Petchaburee  on  a visit,  his  princes  and  nobles 
filled  our  yard  and  houses  day  after  day.  I suppose  that 
nearly  every  one  came  to  our  compound  then  except  the 
king  himself.  The  “ mission  compound  ” is  truly  a centre 
of  attraction  in  all  this  region,  and  that  man  or  woman  who 
has  never  been  here  or  does  not  know  some  of  the  mission- 
aries, is  looked  upon  as  very  ignorant  by  his  fellow-na- 
tives. 

We  are  isolated  and  alone,  nearly  one  hundred  miles 
from  Bangkok,  and  we  seldom  see  a white  face  that  does 
not  belong  to  our  own  number,  yet  we  live  in  a little  world 
of  our  own,  and  the  light  we  have  kindled  shines  farther 
and  wider  each  year,  and  round  about  us  circle  influences 
that  will  reach  to  eternity  ! 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


THE  PRESS. 

The  preparation  of  a Christian  literature  in  a language 
all  the  peojjle  can  understand,  is  one  of  the  most  practical 
ways  of  attacking  a heathen  nation.  Although  quite  a 
cargo  of  such  ammunition  entered  Siam  with  the  first  mis- 
sionaries, the  books  were  nearly  all  Chinese.  They  were 
scattered  broadcast,  however,  and  were  the  first  seed-sow- 
ing, and  a foretaste  of  what  was  to  follow.  The  Press, 
when  properly  used,  is  a great  power  for  good,  and  the 
presses  of  Bangkok,  until  of  late  years,  have  issued  httle 
but  what  was  for  the  uplifting  of  the  Siamese. 

Xearly  all  the  men  and  boys  of  Siam  can  read,  and  a few 
of  the  women,  and  by  means  of  books  knowledge  may  be 
scattered  over  the  kingdom  which  could  not  possibly  be 
disseminated  in  any  other  way.  These  good  books  are 
splendid  preachers,  and  natives  are  constantly  coming  for 
baptism  who  trace  their  interest  to  the  reading  of  this  or 
that  book. 

Those  earnest  and  patient  harbingers  of  civdlization,  the 
Protestant  missionaries,  first  introduced  the  printing-press 
into  Siam.  It  was  established  in  Bangkok  in  1836.  Pre- 
vious to  that  time  some  20,000  volumes  of  Chinese  books 
had  been  distributed.  In  Siamese  much  less  had  been  done, 
because  tracts  could  not  be  obtained  and  the  Bible  was  not 
yet  translated.  Before  Dr.  Bradley’s  arrival  only  one  small 
tract  and  the  first  four  or  five  chapters  of  St.  John’s  gospel 
had  been  printed  and  circulated  in  Siamese.  How  strange 
to  learn  of  sending  out  a few  leaves  of  the  Bible  at  a time. 

(332) 


THE  PRESS. 


333 


"While  Dr.  B.  was  in  Singapore  on  liis  way  to  this  land, 
700  copies  of  St.  Lnke,  translated  by  Dr.  Gutzlatf,  were 
printed  there,  and  Dr.  Bradley  brought  them  with  him  to 
Bangkok.  Soon  after,  Dr.  Jones  had  his  translation  of  St. 
IVlatthew,  and  some  2,000  copies  of  a small  tract,  printed  in 
Singapore  also.  Dr.  Bradley  had  the  honor  of  printing, 
with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Davenport,  the  first  tract  in 
Siam.  He  soon  had  three  others  ready,  but  no  printer. 
Workmen  were  soon  found,  however,  for  by  18J4  we  read 
of  an  English  newspaper  in  Bangkok,  and  that  the  “ Life 
of  Christ,”  translated  by  Dr.  Bradley,  had  already  reached 
its  third  edition,  and  that  the  whole  number  of  copies, 
6,000,  were  given  away  to  Siamese  readers.  Portions  of 
the  Bible,  as  soon  as  translated,  were  published  and  bound 
up  in  separate  volumes,  and  so  distributed.  The  whole 
Bible  is  now  finished,  and  they  have  even  attempted  a sort 
of  revision  of  the  Hew  Testament.  The  new  Bible  is  being 
bound  in  three  volumes — the  Old  Testament  in  two,  and  the 
Hew  in  one  ; for  even  with  the  smaller  type  now  in  use  one 
complete  volume  would  be  much  too  large  for  convenient 
handling,  almost  as  large  as  a Webster’s  Unabridged  Dic- 
tionary. 

The  expense  of  the  publication  of  the  Scriptures  in  Sia- 
mese is  borne  by  the  American  Bible  Society.  The  cost  is 
one  cent  for  every  ten  pages  printed,  and  Dr.  McDonald 
says  the  whole  Bible,  if  properly  bound,  could  not  be  sold 
under  $3  per  copy  and  cover  the  cost.  Ho  earnest  attempt 
has  ever  yet  been  made  to  sell  the  Scriptures  in  Siam. 
The  people  are  willing  to  accept  it  for  nothing,  but  very 
few  will  buy  it.  I think  I have  only  sold  one  Gospel,  a 
copy  of  St.  Matthew,  for  fifteen  cents,  in  all  the  ten  years 
of  my  sojourn.  The  Petchaburee  church  lately  purchased 
eighty  copies  of  the  Hew  Testament  to  distribute  to  her 
converts  after  their  baptism. 

There  are  at  present  three  large  printing  establishments 


334 


SIAM. 


in  Banglcok,  notably  tliat  of  Mr.  D.  B.  Bradley,  a wortliy 
successor  to  his  honored  father,  who  miglit  well  he  called 
the  Father  of  the  Press  in  Siam  : not  because  he  begcan  the 
work,  exactly,  hut  because  he  continued  steadfastly  for 
thirty-eight  years,  and  did  more  than  any  other  one  man 
in  translating,  writing,  printing,  and  distributing  good 
hooks.  His  industry  and  perseverance  seemed  boundless, 
and  only  ended  with  his  life.  But  the  work  he  did  lives 
after  him  in  many  valuable  books  and  tracts  yet  destined 
to  bless  future  Siamese  generations.  Quite  a nmnber  of 
presses  are  employed  in  the  Bradley  office,  and  all  seem 
busy.  Job  work  is  done  neatly  and  with  dispatch.  There 
is  a translating  department  and  also  a type  foundry  in  con- 
nection with  this  office. 

The  Presbyterian  Mission  Press  was  established  in  1861. 
It  is  under  the  care  of  Dr.  McDonald.  He  has  long  had 
control  of  it,  and.  has  translated  and  revised  quite  a number 
of  books.  Five  native  printers  are  employed,  and  the 
annual  expense  of  the  office  is  about  $1,000.  They  do  not 
seek  for  work,  but  do  a few  odd  jobs  that  may  be  brought 
to  them,  provided  they  are  unobjectionable  matter.  This 
is  the  main  depot  for  missionary  literature.  Here  a new 
edition  of  the  Bible  has  just  been  completed,  and  they  are 
mow  issuing  an  illustrated  “Pilgrim’s  Progress.”  How 
that  sturdy  old  “ Pilgrim  ” has  marched  through  the  past, 
and  with  unflagging  footsteps  presses  into  the  future.  I 
wish  you  could  all  see  a Chinese  copy,  with  Celestial  illus- 
trations ! “ Stories  of  Jesus,”  by  M.  L.  Cort,  is  among  the 

latest  Siamese  books ; a “ History  of  the  United  States,”  by 
Mrs.  Dr.  McFarland,  is  now  in  press ; a Theology,  by  Dr. 
McFarland,  and  a Physiology,  by  Dr.  Sturge,  are  in  process 
of  preparation.  The  earlier  missionai’ies  have  nearly  all 
helped  at  the  translation  of  the  Bible. 

The  following  is  a partial  list  of  books  written,  trans- 
lated, and  published  in  Siam ; “ Hints  to  the  "Wise,” 


THE  PRESS. 


335 


“ Golden  Balance,”  and  others,  by  Dr.  Jones.  “ Life  of 
Christ,”  “ Old  Testament  History,”  and  many  others,  by  Dr. 
Bradley.  Yocabulary  of  Siamese  and  English,  “Church 
History,”  “Confession  of  Faith,”  “Shorter  Catechism,” 
“ Evidences  of  Christianity,”  “ Siamese  Hymnal,”  and  four 
Sermons,  by  Dr.  McFarland.  Bible  Lessons,  Second  Eeader, 
and  U.  S.  History,  by  Mrs.  Dr.  McFarland.  “ Stand  by 
the  Truth,”  “ Questions  on  Isew  Testament  History,”  and 
“ Child’s  Catechism,”  by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  House.  Astronomy, 
Philosophy,  Quantitative  Analysis,  Photography,  and  Medi- 
cine, by  Dr.  McDonald.  Arithmetic,  2 vols. ; Geography 
with  maps.  Philosophy,  First  Reader,  The  Atmosphere, 
and  two  Sermons,  by  Rev.  J.  W.  Vandyke.  “ Bible 
Blessings,”  by  IVIiss  Anderson  ; “Way  to  Heaven,”  a tract, 
by  Miss  S.  M.  Coffman  ; “ Soul’s  Cry,  and  God’s  Answer,”  a 
tract,  translated  by  M.  L.  Cort ; also,  “Stories  of  Jesus,”  by 
the  same.  Of  the  following  I do  not  know  the  authors’ 
names,  but  they  were  all  prepared  by  the  earlier  mis- 
sionaries : “ Killing  Animals,”  “ Counterfeit  Money,” 

“Catechism  on  Prayer,”  “Patty  Parsons,”  “Ride  on  the 
Calf,”  “Faith  and  Practice,”  “Creator  and  Saviour,” 
“Child’s  Book  of  the  Soul,”  “Truth  Made  Simple,”  etc. 
Kru  Koa,  a native  teacher  of  Bangkok,  translated  “ Pil- 
grim’s Progress  Kru  Poom,  the  “ Peep  of  Day  Mr. 
Mall,  a native  Christian,  wrote  “ The  Light  of  Europe  ” a 
poem,  and  “ Contrasted  Religions  ”;  Kru  Yuan,  the  native 
preacher  at  Ayuthia,  wrote  “ The  Gospel  Gate,”  and 
“ Proofs  of  Christianity  and  Kru  Phoon,  of  Petchaburee, 
is  writing  the  Life  of  Christ  in  blank  verse.  Of  the  fore- 
going list,  the  Geography,  Arithmetic  (part  first),  Bible 
Lessons,  First  Reader,  and  Hymnal  were  all  printed  at 
Petchaburee  on  a private  press,  besides  various  tracts. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  Pallegoix  had  a splendid 
Siamese  Dictionary  published  in  Paris  years  ago,  and  that 
Church  has  prepared  some  books,  both  in  the  Romanized 


336 


SIAM. 


and  genuine  Siamese  text,  ■n’liicli  tliey  print  on  tlieir  press 
in  Bangkok  ; also  books  for  their  various  schools. 

The  present  king  has  a Eoyal  Press,  and  there  are  several 
others  among  the  Siamese,  but  they  are  very  quiet,  and  we 
see  and  hear  little  of  their  productions  beyond  a few  school 
books  and  Buddhist  volumes  for  the  priests.  The  Siamese 
are  not  a literary  people,  and  until  they  invent  a new  sys- 
tem of  writing,  which  is  now  as  slow  as  making  Enghsh 
printed  letters  by  hand,  they  cannot  expect  to  produce  daily 
enough  copy  to  make  even  one  good-sized  newspaper.  The 
monks  in  the  monasteries  have  unlimited  leisure,  but  they 
are  also  afflicted  with  unlimited  indolence,  and  they  even 
allow  poor,  persevering  women  to  make  merit  by  writing 
their  sacred  books  for  them.  The  late  king,  Maha  Mong- 
kut,  while  a priest,  had  a printing-press  at  his  temple,  and 
he  knew  how  to  use  it  too.-  We  hear  nothing  of  the 
present  ruler’s  literary  attainments,  and  whether  he  writes 
at  all  or  not  I cannot  tell.  His  public  addresses  and  state 
speeches  read  very  well. 


CHAPTER  XXXYIII. 


LAOS,  THE  NOETH-LAND. 

The  Siamese  call  the  Laos  provinces  “Huang  Lao,” 
or  “ Muang  Xuah,”  the  latter  appellation  meaning  the 
“ Xorth-Land.”  The  extent  of  territory  covered  by  the 
Laos  provinces  is  supposed  to  be  one-half  as  great  as  Siam, 
and  the  population  as  dense.  If  so,  we  find  a country 
almost  as  large  as  Italy,  and  containing  from  four  to  five 
millions  of  people.  It  is  an  inland  country,  and  only 
reached  from  the  south  by  small  boats  or  elephants.  The 
territory  is  divided  into  states,  which  a long  time  ago  were 
independent  kingdoms,  each  one  havfing  its  o\vn  chief  or 
king.  Their  very  independence  proved  their  weakness. 
If  they  had  been  united  their  combined  resistance  might 
have  repulsed  the  frequent  invasions  of  Siam,  Burmah, 
and  Pegu,  to  which  kingdoms  the  Laos  states  became,  time 
and  again,  wholly  or  in  part  a prey.  This  state  of  affairs 
continued  until  the  beginning  of  the  present  Siamese  dy- 
nasty, something  over  a century  ago,  when  five  of  the  states 
lying  north  of  Siam  became  tributary  to  this  kingdom. 
According  to  Dr.  Cheek,  these  five  states  measure  220 
miles  north  and  south  and  some  420  east  and  west,  and 
sustain  a population  of  2,000,000.  Although  bound  in  a 
common  interest  to  Siam,  they  have  a certain  independ- 
ence of  each  other  even  yet ; but  their  kings  must  now 
come  to  Bangkok  to  be  invested  with  regal  titles  and  to 
receive  their  kingdom. 

Many  of  the  Laosians  speak  the  Siamese  language,  and 
nearly  all  the  princes  and  nobles  can  read  it.  Even  a Laos- 
15  (337) 


338 


SIAM. 


ian  princess,  Ooboonla  W annah,  is  a subscriber  for  one  of 
the  Banglvok  papers.  Tliey  have  a vrritten  language  of 
tbeir  own,  and  some  books,  original  and  translated.  Tbe 
first  Laos  tracts  were  distributed  in  1861.  They  must  have 
been  written,  as  I have  never  yet  heard  of  any  printing 
having  been  done  in  that  language.  It  is  true  the  mission- 
aries there  have  a press  and  a good  font  of  type  brought  from 
the  United  States,  but  the  force  has  been  so  small  that  no 
one  could  be  spared  from  the  regular  ministering  to  the 
religious  needs  of  the  people  to  attend  to  printing.  A por- 
tion of  the  Bible  has  been  translated,  and  we  hope  it  will 
soon  be  completed  and  given  to  the  natives.  At  present 
there  is  an  earnest  desire  on  the  part  of  the  Siamese  rulers 
to  have  their  language  prevail  among  the  Laos,  and  the 
latter  are  eager  also  to  learn  it.  Thus  the  Scriptures  in 
Siamese  can  be  used  to  good  effect ; yet  the  vast  majority 
of  the  people  will  not  get  the  Siamese  soon  efiough  nor 
well  enough  to  depend  on  this  Bible  for  their  enlighten- 
ment. They  should  by  all  means  have  one  of  their  own, 
as  the  best  way  to  reach  the  heart  of  any  nation  is  through 
their  mother  tongue. 

At  the  Centennial  in  1882  I had  the  pleasure  of  meeting 
the  kins:  of  the  Laos  and  his  courtiers,  who  had  come  to 
honor  the  king  and  to  place  their  contributions  among  the 
many  strange  and  wonderful  things  in  the  Exposition  build- 
ing. The  Laos  department  made  no  mean  display.  In  the 
Boyal  ^luseum  at  Bangkok  I have  also  seen  a beautiful 
ivory  “howdah,”  or  elephant  saddle,  richly  carved  and  in- 
laid, which  was  presented  by  one  of  the  kings  of  Laos  to 
the  ruler  of  Siam.  When  the  king  came  from  the  “ Xorth- 
Land”  he  had  a fleet  of  forty  boats,  and  they  anchored 
under  the  shadow  of  Wat  Chang.  These  Laos  boats  are 
very  pretty  as  well  as  curious.  Some  were  painted  in  blue 
and  gold,  and  others  were  decorated  with  white  elephants, 
but  all  had  the  stern  finished  like  a fish-tail  reared  high  in  air. 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


339 


Quite  a number  of  the  Laos  states  belong  to  Burmab, 
and  it  is  said  there  are  no  less  than  thirty-seven  Shan,  or 
Laos  princes,  under  the  jurisdiction  of  King  Thebaw. 

Of  those  states  tributary  to  Siam,  that  of  Cheung  Mai 
seems  to  be  the  most  important,  and  its  king,  residing  in 
his  capital  of  the  same  name,  makes  a triennial  visit  to  the 
King  of  Siam  as  his  Suzerain,  bringing  with  him  the  usual 
tribute  of  a gold  tree,  a silver  tree,  a gold  chain,  and  finger- 
rings  richly  set  with  gems.  I have  seen  several  of  these 
trees.  They  are  quite  beautiful,  and  if  they  were  solid 
gold  and  silver,  and  the  jewels  all  true  gems,  they  would 
be  quite  valuable.  The  trees  are  seven  or  eight  feet  high. 
The  trunk  is  a tin  cylinder  heavily  plated,  and  the  branches 
are  made  of  copper  wire  also  covered  with  the  precious 
metals.  The  leaves  and  petals  of  the  flowers  are  pure  gold 
and  silver,  very  beautiful,  and  so  delicately  wrought  as  to 
show  the  ribs  and  veins  as  in  the  natural  plant.  They  are 
miniature  and  graceful  imitations  of  the  clove-tree  found  in 
great  abundance  in  Laos. 

Very  few  Europeans  have  ever  penetrated  this  Korth- 
Land,  and  for  what  information  we  have  been  able  to 
gather,  we  are  indebted  to  the  hasty  notes  or  observations 
of  stray  travellers,  and  the  journals  and  letters  of  mission- 
aries who  have  occupied  Cheung  Mai  as  a station  since 
18(57.  At  that  time  the  missionaries  were  eighty-nine  days 
accomplishing  the  journey  from  Bangkok  by  boat.  The 
time  may  be  shortened  by  taking  elephants  from  Eahang 
to  Cheung  Mai.  But  if  there  was  a railway  direct  from 
Bangkok,  by  making  twenty  miles  an  hour,  in  twenty-four 
hours  after  bidding  Bangkok  friends  “ good-bye,”  one  could 
be  shaking  hands  with,  and  receiving  a cordial  welcome  from, 
others  in  the  Laos  capital.  Kone  would  rejoice  more  over 
this  apparent  annihilation  of  space  than  those  isolated  work- 
ers who  are  now  laboring  for  Christ  in  the  very  “ ends  of 
the  earth.” 


340 


SIAM. 


All  wLo  have  seen  this  beantiful  land  are  enthusiastic  in 
their  desci’iptions  of  its  natural  scenery  ; its  elevated  plains, 
palm-dotted  and  covered  with  rice-fields,  and  widening  ofi 
into  jungles  of  bamboo  and  valuable  teak  forests ; its  moun- 
tains, rivers,  streams,  and  cascades ; its  eaves  and  rapids. 
Ko  less  than  thirty-five  of  the  latter  have  to  be  crossed  in 
the  ascent  of  the  river  between  Rahang  and  Cheung  Mai. 
Often  the  boats  have  to  be  emptied  of  their  cargo  and 
hauled  over  these  rapids  by  ropes,  and  in  descending  they 
must  also  be  let  dovm  gently  by  ropes  to  prevent  their  be- 
ing broken  on  the  rocks  or  swamped  in  the  waves.  The 
river  is  very  winding  and  in  places  deep  and  rapid,  and 
has  an  ever-changing  channel,  caused  by  the  rapid  cur- 
rent and  constant  destruction  and  formation  of  sand-bars. 
The  pleasantest  season  and  the  best  time  to  make  the  uj> 
river  journey  is  during  the  winter  months.  There  is  no 
danger  of  being  frozen  in,  for  one  voyager  records  that  in 
February  the  thermometer  was  as  low  as  48°  Fahrenheit ! 
If  one  has  a good  Laos  boat,  large  and  comfortable,  an 
abundant  and  varied  supply  of  food,  pleasant  company, 
some  books,  and  plenty  of  time,  the  trip  is  really  enjoy- 
able. If  the  gentlemen  of  the  party  are  hunters,  they  can 
keep  the  table  supplied  with  game,  such  as  venison,  moun- 
tain goat,  and  wild  boar.  There  are  also  wild  ducks  and 
turkeys,  and  other  birds  less  rare  and  delicate.  A tiger  or 
two  may  also  be  shot  at,  at  least,  if  not  taken ; but  if  the 
latter,  there  is  great  satisfaction  in  having  killed  so  ferocious 
a beast  and  being  able  to  trample  his  skin  under  your  feet, 
where  as  a beautiful  rug  it  will  serve  you  for  years.  On 
the  way  you  pass  many  villages,  and  a few  cities  of  more 
or  less  importance.  “ Kumpang  Pet,”  or  Diamond  Wall, 
is  an  old  decayed  city,  and  the  inhabitants,  hke  most  of  the 
Siamese  further  south,  are  not  very  enterprising.  The 
large  teak  forests  are  worked  principally  by  Burmans  of 
Rangoon  or  Maulmaiti. 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


341 


Kot  many  hours  from  Kumpang  Pet  are  the  ruins  of  a 
large  Buddhist  temple,  said  by  the  natives  to  have  been 
built  about  four  centuries  ago,  when  the  city  was  the  capi- 
tal of  an  independent  kingdom.  A traveller  who  visited 
the  site  says : “ The  space  occupied  by  the  ruins  of  this 
temple  prove  the  great  dimensions  of  the  ancient  monu- 
ment ; whilst  its  construction  of  enormous  blocks  of  dark 
red  sandstone  testifies  to  its  antiquity.”  Further  up  the 
river  is  Pahang,  the  most  important  city  of  Northern 
Siam.  Here  the  river  is  some  four  hundred  feet  wide, 
and  divided  into,  many  channels  made  by  little  islands 
which  are  no  doubt  overflowed  at  high  water. 

Carl  Bock,  a Danish  traveller,  strongly  advocates  a rail- 
way between  Bangkok  and  Pahang.  The  distance  between 
the  two  points  would  be  only  flfteen  hom's,  while  by  boat 
even  the  most  energetic  foreigners  require  twelve  days  for 
the  three  hundred  miles.  Pahang  is  the  seat  of  considerable 
trade.  Here  also  the  teak  forests  are  actively  worked  by 
British  Burmans.  This  appears  to  be  the  most  profitable 
business.  Over  six  hundred  elephants,  valued  at  from  $225 
to  $900  each,  are  employed  in  carrying  w'ood  to  the  river. 
The  district  also  exports  a great  quantity  of  sapan-wood, 
cut  into  small  blocks,  and  has  an  active  trade  in  gum,  hides, 
rice,  and  wax.  In  the  markets  or  bazaars  may  be  found 
cloth  of  English  and  German  manufacture,  colored  pic- 
tures, iron  and  earthen  ware,  and  other  imported  articles. 
A few  miles  north  of  here  the  lordly  Chow  Payah,  or  Ma- 
nam,  as  the  river  at  Bangkok  is  usually  called,  changes  its 
name  and  becomes  the  Maping.  Pahang  is  a flourishing 
town  of  some  ten  or  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants.  Its  for- 
ests of  ])recious  woods  are  a great  source  of  wealth,  and  the 
soil  of  the  surrounding  country  is  extremely  fertile,  but  as 
yet  vast  tracts  are  left  uncultivated.  W ayfarers  bound  for 
the  north,  who  are  in  haste  to  reach  their  destination,  here 
leave  their  boats  and  baggage  to  go  by  river,  while  they 


342 


SIAM. 


take  elephants  and  guides,  and  strike  out  throxigh  the  jun- 
gles and  forests.  The  jungle  grass  is  often  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  high,  so  that  the  traveller  perched  in  his  howdah  on 
tlie  elephant’s  hack  can  just  look  out  over  its  waving  masses. 
In  some  places  the  elephant  trail  from  Eahang  is  strewn 
with  enormous  blocks  of  granite,  of  which  valuable  stone  I 
do  not  hear  that  the  natives  make  any  use.  The  cultivated 
lands  produce  great  quantities  of  rice  and  tobacco.  Be- 
tween the  plains  the  country  is  rough  and  hilly. 

“At  last  we  arrived,”  says  C.  B.,  “on  an  immense  plateau 
containing  many  villages,  the  inhabitants  of  which  are  chiefly 
engaged  in  rearing  cattle.  Everywhere  large  farms  were  to  be 
seen  with  thousands  of  cattle  and  buffalo.  They  are  employed 
as  beasts  of  burden  by  those  who  cannot  afford  elephants.  They 
are  also  exported  in  large  droves  to  British  Burmah.  I met  one 
dealer  conducting  a herd  of  over  one  hundi’ed  buffalo  for  sale 
to  Maulmam. 

“This  district  produces  large  quantities  of  excellent  cotton, 
which  is  sold  principally  to  merchants  of  Yunnan.  Sticlac  and 
gum  (dammar)  are  found  in  the  neighboring  woods,  and  also 
exported.  Two  days  later  I arrived  at  Lakon,  a Laos  town  of 
nearly  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  surrounded  by  the  usual 
wall,  some  six  feet  thick,  built  of  small  bricks.”  * 

A former  traveller  says  : 

“It  is  a fine  country  for  some  distance  before  reaching  the 
city.  The  houses  are  comparatively  neat  and  comfortable.  We 
noticed  here,  for  the  first  time,  a curious  custom  of  stacking  the 
rice  in  the  forks  of  the  trees  until  reatly  to  be  threshed.  Here 
also  we  first  met  several  long  droves  of  oxen  in  single  file,  their 
burdens  being  carried  in  double  baskets  placed  like  a pair  of 
saddle-hags  across  their  backs.  The  leader,  or  foremost  ox, 
always  has  a mask  fancifully  made  of  shells  to  cover  the  whole 
face,  and  a large  peacock’s  tail  extending  up  from  it  between 
tlie  horns,  and  waving  rather  comically  and  gracefully  over  the 

* Dr.  and  Mrs.  Peoples  have  gone  this  year  (1885)  to  occupy 
Lakon  as  a mission  station. 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


343 


back.  Everything  that  is  not  carried  on  elephants  is  borne  by 
oxen,  in  these  baskets,  all  over  the  Laos  country.  Thousands  of 
them  are  to  be  seen  daily  in  Cheung  Mai.  Often  most  of  the 
drove  have  little  hells,  similar  to  sleigh-bells,  fastened  all  over 
them,  which  jingle  merrily  and  add  not  a little  to  the  life  of 
the  place.” 

Lakon  is  noted  as  a great  market  for  elephants ; the  na- 
tives  say  there  are  over  a thousand  in  the  place,  most  of 
them  having  been  caught  by  the  Karens  in  the  mountains. 
These  same  mountains  have  rich  mines  of  iron,  lead,  and 
copper  ore. 

The  last  city  before  reaching  Cheung  JMai  is  Lampoon. 
It  is  not  on  the  river,  but  several  hours’  walk  inland. 
There  is,  however,  a large  creek  by  which  boats  can  reach 
it  at  high  water.  There  is  nothing  peculiar  about  the  city, 
except  that  its  wall  is  circular  instead  of  the  usual  square. 
It  has  a fine  market,  and  a royal  temple,  with  a tall,  glitter- 
ing spire.  The  people  are  all  Buddhists  and  devil-wor- 
shippers. Bice-fields  are  on  every  side,  extending  in  some 
places  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see,  and  they  succeed  each 
other  until  you  reach  the  very  gates  of  the  royal  city  of 
Cheung  Mai.  It  is  interesting  to  translate  some  of  these 
foreign  names — Cheung  Mai,  for  instance  : Cheung.,  town, 
burg,  or  ville  ; J/«^,  new.  Thus  Cheung  Mai  is  only  Kew- 
town  or  Kewville,  as  commonplace  a name  as  one  could 
find  anywhere  in  Amei-ica.  Cheung  Rai,  Fieldburg ; 
Cheung  Toong,  Meadowville,  etc. 

If  one  goes  by  boat  from  Eahang  the  journey  is  much 
longer,  but  the  tedium  of  the  “time-devouring  river”  is 
relieved  by  the  grand  and  romantic  scenery,  especially 
among  the  rapids,  which  are  nearly  forty  in  number,  and 
begin  where  the  mountains  come  down  to  the  river  on 
either  side.  In  places  they  form  an  almost  perpendicular 
bank  of  solid  stone,  first  on  one  side,  then  on  the  other. 
The  beautifully  veined  strata  are  plainly  visible,  and  laugh- 


SIAM. 


344 

ing  waterfalls,  and  leaping  cascades,  and  pendant  stalactites, 
moss-covered  or  fringed  with  ferns  and  ^dnes,  enhance  the 
loveliness  of  the  wild  and  enchanting  scene,  while  the  more 
gently  sloping  ascents  are  covered  wdth  rich  foliage  and 
graceful  bamboo.  Again  the  river  rushes  through  a nar- 
row rocky  gorge  not  more  than  thirty  or  forty  feet  wide, 
but  whose  upright  walls  extend  skyward  at  least  six  hun- 
dred feet,  and  a cascade  dashing  from  an  overhanging  cliS 
falls  on  the  other  side  of  the  boat.  “ One  has  an  indescrib- 
able feeling  of  awe  as  he  passes  through  that  deep  chasm, 
as  if  in  some  deserted  street  of  an  old  city  built  by  giants 
of  a former  age,  but  of  which  no  trace  remains.”  There 
the  sun  only  smiles  upon  the  waters  a short  time  at  noon, 
and  through  the  other  hours  of  daylight  there  is  a sense  of 
dawn  or  twilight  hanging  over  the  passage.  The  place  is 
called  Peen-fa,'^  which  means  vaulting  the  sky.  The 
longest  rapids  are  nearly  a mile  in  length.  Over  some  of 
them  the  traveller  is  compelled  to  prepare  a channel  for  his 
boat  by  gathering  out  the  stones,  and  building  a dam  back 
of  the  boat,  and  then  dra^ffinj;  the  boat  till  the  water  is  so 
shallow  that  another  dam  is  necessary,  and  so  little  by  little 
they  overcome  every  obstacle,  and  at  last  find  smoother 
sailing.  Good  ropes  and  a pulley,  and  some  long,  strong 
bamboo  poles,  with  iron  hooks  to  them,  are  almost  indis- 
pensable. The  long  native  boats,  called  ^'•Pua-Chalas'^ 
are  better  than  any  other  kind  for  this  river,  except  in 
point  of  comfort,  and  then  the  wider  Laos  boats,  with  cabin 
accommodations,  are  a great  improvement.  The  rna-chalas 
take  but  three  oarsmen,  and  make  the  trip  in  half  the  time 
that  the  large  Laos  boats  do,  consequently  at  half  the 
expense. 

As  you  approach  Cheung  Mai  you  are  reminded  of  the 
scenery  of  Petchaburee,  with  its  river,  its  plains,  and  moun- 
tains, only  the  Laos  mountains  are  more  lofty  and  beautiful. 
The  country  is  elevated  and  usually  healthy,  with  a com- 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


345 


fortable  climate,  and  all  the  tropical  fruits  and  flowers. 
There  are  iron,  lead,  and  copper  mines  in  her  mountains, 
and  even  gold  is  found  in  her  river  beds,  and  to  the  north 
of  Cheung  Mai  there  are  petroleum  wells.  There  are 
numerous  caves  in  the  mountains  which  the  natives  have 
turned  into  Iluddhist  temples,  and  filled  with  their  idols 
and  idolatrous  rubbish.  A late  traveller  speaks  of  visiting 
Muang  Fang.,  a place  only  resettled  a twelvemonth,  and 
the  men  and  women  were  yet  busy  cutting  down  the  jungle 
and  clearing  the  ground  where  there  was  formerly  a great 
city,  at  one  time  even  the  capital  of  Western  Laos.  All 
that  remains  of*  its  ancient  glory  are  the  city  walls,  pierced 
and  broken  ; a few  ruins  of  temples,  pagodas  or  prachadees, 
and  thousands  of  bronze  idols.  Near  Muang  Fang  is  the 
famous  cave  “ Turn  Taptan.”  The  entrance  is  seventy  or 
eighty  feet  above  the  plain,  while  the  height  of  the  lime- 
stone mountain  is  perhaps  three  hundred  feet.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  cave  bricks  and  plaster  had  been  shaped  to 
form  a doorway.  Above  the  portal  are  some  carved  fig- 
ures in  sandstone  of  “ hoalaman^’’  and  more  especially  of  a 
bird,  representing  a peacock,  an  evident  sign  that  it  had 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Ngious  or  Burmese.  To  the  left 
of  the  door  is  a narrow  niche,  holding  a broken  figure  of  a 
Buddha,  said  to  be  a doctor,  at  whose  feet  the  pious  pil- 
grims laid  a number  of  decanters,  pots,  and  jars  made  of 
clay  in  the  Ngiou  country.  The  cavern  itself  is  high  and 
lofty,  and  in  the  middle,  on  an  elevated  platform,  lay  a 
gigantic  Buddha,  surrounded  by  smaller  images,  sitting 
and  praying  with  uplifted  hands.  They  were  covered 
with  yellow  rags,  and  had  caps  on  their  heads  which  the 
priests  had  left  in  token  of  devotion.  To  the  right  was  an 
altar,  on  which  was  an  immense  collection  of  idols  of 
bronze,  wood,  and  stone,  together  with  a curious  assort- 
ment of  priests’-  cloths,  water-jars,  rice-trays,  spittoons, 
streamers,  and  tufts  of  hair.  The  travellers’  servants 
15* 


346 


SIAM. 


bowed  in  adoration,  and  made  offerings  of  wax-tapers, 
parched  rice,  and  flowers ; besides,  a couple  of  gorgeously 
colored  photographs  of  a Chinese  man  and  woman  brought 
from  Bangkok.  At  the  back  of  the  cave,  some  thirty  feet 
aloft,  was  an  erect  flgure  of  Buddha  in  the  act  of  giving 
blessing.  Before  the  altar  was  a miscellaneous  assortment 
of  old  mattresses,  pillows,  and  mats,  s^varming  with  roaches, 
lizards,  and  other  disgusting  vermin.  The  natives  say  that 
at  its  source  the  head-waters  of  the  lordly  Chow  Payah 
come  gushing  from  the  mouth  of  a cave  in  the  Laos 
mountains. 

There  is  a large  pagoda  in  the  river  near  Cheung  Mai,  and 
the  river  itself  is  full  of  life,  with  boats  coming  and  going, 
flshers  at  work,  etc.,  walking  about,  busy  night  and  day  with 
prod  and  basket  and  seine.  The  Laos  women,  too,  wade 
through  the  shallow  water  to  cultivate  their  little  gardens 
upon  the  exposed  sand-bars.  They  raise  patches  of  sweet 
potatoes,  cucumbers,  and  beans.  They  are  all  planted  and 
harvested  while  the  river  is  low.  When  the  rains  descend 
again  their  gardens  are  overflowed,  and  entirely  disappear 
under  torrents  of  rushing  water ; and  the  gi'eat  water- 
wheels, twenty  feet  in  diameter,  turning  ceaselessly  and 
bringing  the  water  up  to  the  houses  and  flelds.  The 
natives  depend  on  the  yearly  overflow  of  the  i-iver  and  on 
irrigation  for  their  fields  and  gardens,  which  are  very  pro- 
ductive. The  missionaries  can  raise  nice  home  vegetables 
in  the  greatest  abundance,  and  one  of  their  dwellings  has 
a grape-vine  climbing  to  the  roof. 

Cheung  Mai  is  a city  variously  estimated  to  contain  from 
twenty  to  thirty  thousand  souls.  A great  deal  depends  on 
the  number  you  count  outside  the  city  wall,  for  like  most 
Laos  cities  the  royal  and  business  part  of  the  town  is  sur- 
rounded by  a brick  wall.  The  streets  are  wide  and  pleas- 
ant, having  double  rows  of  trees,  and  streams  of  running 
water  brought  by  an  aqueduct  from  a mountain  two  or 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


347 


three  miles  distant.  The  houses  are  uniform  in  style  and 
built  of  teak-wood  and  bamboo ; the  former  are  covered 
with  burnt  tiles  and  the  latter  thatched  with  long  grass,  or 
chaak,  made  from  the  leaves  of  the  mangrove.  They  are 
elevated  on  posts  several  feet  from  the  ground  like  Sia- 
mese dwellings,  and  have  verandas  and  open  courts,  and 
usually  ground  room  enough  for  a garden.  Bricks  are 
used  for  Buddhist  temples  and  shrines,  and  are  therefore 
held  too  sacred  for  human  habitations. 

For  an  Oriental  city  the  walled  portion  of  Cheung  Mai 
is  kept  very  neat  and  clean.  The  markets  are  held  within 
the  gates  in  the  early  morning,  and  for  only  a few  hours  at 
a time.  Everything  is  carried  in  by  women  in  baskets,  and 
arranged  in  the  most  orderly  manner.  There  are  pork  and 
chickens  for  sale,  and  fruits,  vegetables,  and  flowers.  While 
not  trading  the  market-women  work  away  on  their  em- 
broidery, which  is  used  for  their  clothing,  pillows,  and  mat- 
tresses. 

Occasionally  one  sees  a few  “ nantolc^’’  the  old  silver  coin- 
age of  the  Laos,  worth  six  rupees  each  ; but  the  present 
medium  of  exchange  are  the  bright  silver  rupees  bearing 
Queen  Victoria’s  stamp  as  Empress  of  India,  together  with 
salt ! When  the  latter  is  used  the  article  sold  is  usually 
worth  its  weight  in  salt.  This  commodity  is  so  precious  be- 
cause the  Laos  are  entirely  shut  off  from  the  sea,  and,  hav- 
ing no  salt  mines,  are  dependent  on  boats,  elephants,  and 
cattle  to  bring  the  useful  article  to  their  inland  markets. 

A Government  agent  has  lately  been  appointed  to  look 
after  British  interests  in  Cheung  Mai,  as  the  city  occupies 
a favorable  position  between  British  Burinah  and  Siam, 
and  may  sometime  become  a point  of  commercial  and  po- 
litical importance,  especially  if  the  projected  railway  be- 
tween Mauhnain  and  the  Laos  capital  should  be  l)uilt. 

The  merchants  of  Yunnan  come  south  to  Cheung  Mai 
with  caravans  of  horses  and  mules  and  return  laden  with 


3i8 


SIAM. 


cotton.  The  Laos  also  export  lacqner,  beteLmit,  -wax,  gnrn, 
tobacco,  silk,  and  rice.  Tlie  women  spin  and  weave  near- 
ly all  the  cotton  cloth  used  for  garments.  They  have  no 
sheep,  and  know  nothing  of  the  use  of  wool.  The  silk- 
worms flourish  and  provide  them  with  plenty  of  the  raw 
silk,  but  the  mulberry-trees  which  nourish  them  never  bear 
fruit. 

The  men  dress  very  much  like  the  Siamese,  and  wear  the 
same  tuft  of  hair  on  the  top  of  the  head.  The  women  have 
long,  shining  black  hair,  combed  straight  back  and  looped 
into  a beautiful  knot,  which  needs  no  ])in  to  secure  it.  If 
they  are  unmarried  they  wear  a flower  in  the  hair,  and  the 
asking  for  this  flower  by  a young  man  is  equivalent  to 
offering  his  heart  and  hand.  The  dress  of  the  Laosian 
women  is  very  unlike  that  of  the  Siamese ; it  is  more  com- 
plete and  modest.  It  consists  of  a skirt  made  of  varying 
widths  sewed  together  so  that  the  seams  pass  round  the 
body.  The  upper  strip  is  white,  the  next  red,  the  next 
woven  of  white  and  black  stripes  and  shaded  ^vith  motley 
colors.  This  is  the  widest  piece  and  goes  about  the  knees. 
The  bottom  strip  is  red  and  about  fourteen  inches  wide. 
The  skirt  is  long,  reaching  to  the  ankles,  and  “ is  kept  in 
place  by  using  the  upper  white  strip  for  a belt  as  a band 
of  a sheaf  of  wheat  is  twisted  and  tucked  in  under  itself.” 
Ilieh  and  poor  all  dress  alike,  except  that  the  higher  classes 
vary  the  universal  style  a little  by  inserting  a very  showy 
strip  of  wrought  silk  into  the  skirt  near  the  bottom.  Some 
are  beginning  to  wear  jackets  or  waists,  but  the  usual  style 
is  for  the  women  to  have  a brightly-colored  cotton  or  silk 
scarf  tied  around  their  chests  just  under  the  arms. 

The  Laosians  are  a flner,  hardier-looking  race  than  the 
average  Siamese.  They  are  taller  and  better  formed.  In 
some  of  the  tribes  the  common  men  disflgure  their  bodies 
by  tattooing  from  the  waist  down  to  below  the  knees.  An 
old  writer  says ; 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


349 


“ One  of  the  princes  told  me  that  persons  of  his  class  seldom 
follow  this  sin^lar  custom,  as  they  do  not  reckon  themselves 
among  those  born  to  take  the  rough-and-tumble  of  life,  and  very 
rai’ely  become  soldiers.  Those  who  ai’e  tattooed  do  it  because 
they  glory  in  being  men,  and  not  women — men  who  can  fight 
like  the  devils  pictured  on  then-  thighs,  and  run  like  deer  when 
occasion  calls,  through  jungles  and  swamps,  with  but  httle  to 
cover  their  tattooed  nudity.  There  is  no  religious  element  con- 
nected with  the  custom.  It  is  a painful  operation  and  some  die 
in  consequence.  The  coloring  matter  deposited  under  the  cuti- 
cle is  chiefly  soot  and  hog’s  lard,  or  cocoanut  oil.  The  usual 
fee  for  a single  person  is  $1.20,  but  when  figm-es  are  required 
demanding  more  of  the  time  and  skill  of  the  operator  the  fee  is 
greater.  It  requires  many  lyings  and  much  patient  endm’ance 
to  complete  the  work  on  one  man.” 

The  Laos  burn  tlieir  dead,  and  the  following  account  of 
a funeral  fete  in  Cheung  Mai  is  from  the  graphic  pen  of 
Rev.  J.  Wilson,  who  for  nearly  a score  of  years  has  been 
laboring  for  the  sphdtual  weKare  of  the  Laosians ; 

“ The  cremation  of  the  late  second  king  took  place  this  after- 
noon. Several  thousands  of  people  were  present,  among  them 
the  chiefs  and  their  suites  from  sevei’al  of  the  other  provinces. 
Tliere  had  been  great  preparations,  and  there  was  a good  deal  of 
display.  The  funeral-car  was  large  and  bore  the  expressive 
token  of  a huge  dragon  with  an  elephant’s  head  and  trunk. 
Upon  the  back  of  this  dragon  rested  the  pagoda-shax>ed  pyre, 
gaudy,  like  the  dragon,  with  gilt  and  silver  tinsel.  The  spire  of 
the  pagoda  reached  some  forty  feet  from  the  gi’ound.  Tliis  fu- 
neral-car was  dragged  by  ropes,  at  which  more  than  a thousand 
persons  assisted  in  pulling.  The  firat  king  and  liigher  princes 
led  the  van  of  the  procession.  In  the  foremost  part  of  it  was 
the  king's  elephant,  decked  with  gold  trappings.  In  the  fimeial 
procession  came  also  the  favorite  horse  of  the  late  second  king, 
richly  caparisoned  in  silver  ornaments,  and  saddle  covered  with 
silver-cloth.  Just  after  the  horse  came  the  second  king’s  ele- 
phant weainng  silver  trappings  worth  hundreds  of  rupees,  as  the 
gold  trappings  already  mentioned  are  worth  thousands.  Tliey 
are  both  of  heavy  beaten  work,  highly  pohshed,  and  of  a quaint 
pattern.  To  see  the  huge  animals  move  slowly  along,  these 


350 


SIAM. 


polished  pieces  of  silver  and  gold  flashing  in  the  sunlight,  re- 
minds one  that  he  is  in  the  East.  There  is  nothing  just  like  it 
in  the  Western  ■n'orld.  These  gold  and  silver  trappings  were 
the  only  costly  articles  in  the  parade.  The  pagoda  pyre,  as  it 
moved  slowly  along,  had  a graceful  look,  a costly  ghtter,  but 
all  this  came  from  pretty  tinsel  worth  but  little.  Some  of  the 
princes  wore  diamond  rings  and  costly  gaiments;  a few  of  the 
princesses  wore  diamonds  also  in  then*  ears  and  on  their  fingers. 
Many  of  the  people  were  dressed  in  gaudy  colors. 

‘ ‘ The  vast  assemblage  had  the  appearance  of  some  hohday 
gathering.  The  constant  hum  of  voices,  rising  to  merry  laugh- 
ter, dispelled  the  idea  that  the  people  were  come  to  render  their 
last  homage  of  respect  to  their  dead  cliicf.  But  so  it  is  in  re- 
gions where  only  the  ‘ Light  of  Asia  ’ has  shone.  Fear  and 
di’ead  of  death  in  its  approaches,  wailing  over  the  corpse,  and 
then  loud  and  merry  festivity,  and  oftentimes  the  most  arrant 
buffoonery  when  it  is  prepared  for  and  home  to  the  funeral 
pyre.  Even  then  the  bodies  of  the  great  cannot  rest  in  the 
flames  in  quiet,  but  rockets  must  haunt  the  pyre,  hearing  to  the 
flamiug  pile  caricature  shapes  of  men  and  beasts,  birds  and  rep- 
tiles. We  Westerners  even  cannot  resist  the  ludicrous  effect  of 
sucli  flgures  scudding  along  the  ground,  and  in  many  cases 
dashing  right  into  the  flames.  It  is  only  when  it  is  all  over 
that  the  thought,  ‘ Death  has  been  here  and  borne  a gi-eat  man 
frem  the  people,’  resumes  its  place.  It  would  be  impossible  to 
give  the  full  details  of  the  ceremony,  nor  could  one  imderatand 
it  from  even  the  fullest  description.  Eyesight  alone  can  com- 
prehend it.” 

The  Laosians  are  civil  and  respectful.  Theft  is  a capital 
crime,  and  there  is  more  morality  among  them  than  most 
Eastern  nations  can  boast.  They  are  Buddhists  and  devil- 
worshippers,  evince  great  veneration  for  the  spirits  of  their 
ancestors,  and  are  full  of  superstitious  fears.  They  believe 
that  nearly  all  illness  is  produced  by  witchery,  and  who- 
ever is  accused  of  being  the  witch,  or  is  banished, 

with  his  family,  from  the  city  or  town  where  he  lives,  his 
property  conhscated  forever,  his  houses  burned  dowu,  and 
trees  destroyed.  Hundreds  of  poor  unfortunates  are  yearly 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


351 


driven  from  their  homes  on  account  of  this  terrible  super- 
stition. The  missionaries  of  Cheung  Mai  liave  sheltered  a 
great  many  by  allowing  them  a refuge  in  the  mission  com- 
pound. To  this  the  outside  natives  offer  no  objections — 
imagining,  perhaps,  that  the  evil  spirit  “Pee-ka”  loses  all 
power  in  the  presence  of  the  wonderful  foreigners  from 
the  outside  world.  An  effort  has  been  made  in  the  United 
States  to  raise  money  for  the  purchase  of  refuge  farms  for 
these  poor  persecuted  people. 

“I  had  repeatedly,”  says  Dr.  Clieek,  a medical  missionaiy  to 
the  Laos,  “requested  permission  to  witness  an  investigation  of  a 
case  of  witchcraft,  and  I was  at  last  granted  an  opportunity.  I 
found  upon  inquiry  that  the  patient,  a girl  of  about  sLxteen,  had 
some  months  previou.sly  suffered  from  a protracted  fever,  prob- 
^ibly  tyijhoid,  and  that  upon  recovery  had  lost  the  power  of 
speech,  though  in  other  respects  she  seemed  quite  well. 

“ One  day  she  went  with  a party  of  children  to  a temple,  and 
wliile  there  she  spoke  a few  words  more  or  less  distinctly.  Im- 
mediately tlie  children  became  alarmed  and  ran  home.  Sup- 
posing the  case  to  be  one  of  witchcraft  the  owner  (for  the  patient 
was  a slave)  sent  for  the  spirit-doctors.  Three  of  these  profes- 
sionals were  present  when  I reached  the  place,  and  one  of 
them,  who  seemed  to  be  considered  more  eminent  than  his  fol- 
lows, assumed  the  rule  of  chief  inquisitor.  After  becoming 
thoroughly  infused  with  the  inspiration  of  a rather  large  bowl 
of  arrack,  this  eminent  doctor  began  muttering  some  gibberish, 
and,  taking  up  a tiger’s  tooth,  he  drew  it  along  the  side  and 
back  of  the  patient,  leaving  deep  scratches,  while  the  patient  of 
course  writhed  and  struggled.  At  length  a rather  deeper  and 
more  skillful  incision,  which  di-ew  the  blood,  elicited  a cry  of 
pain,  and  this  cry  was  interpreted  by  the  ferocious,  diunken 
spirit-doctor  as  indicating  the  seat  of  the  spirit.  Then,  with  a 
vigorous  thrust  betAveen  the  ribs,  while  his  assistant  pressed  a 
bluntly-pointed  piece  of  wood  against  the  unhappy  patient,  he, 
with  foul  and  abusive  language,  ordered  the  spirit  to  leave.  The 
exorcism  was  a failm’e,  and  the  patient  refused  to  speak,  al- 
though pressingly  flattered  to  do  so  by  the  combined  efforts  of 
these  two  drunken  savages.  The  patient  is  in  such  cases,  for  the 


352 


S/AAf. 


time,  supposed  to  be  the  not  altogether  ‘unconscious  envelope” 
of  the  infesting  si^irit ; and  any  injury  inflicted  by  the  sph-it- 
doctor  is  directed  against  the  spirit,  and  any  answer  given  to  the 
questions  put  by  the  spirit-doctor,  or  the  friends  of  the  patient, 
are  from  the  sph-it.  So  the  witch-doctor  asks  its  name  and 
abode,  and  the  names  of  relatives,  and  sundry  questions  con- 
cemhig  domestic  relations,  supposed  to  be  known  only  to  mem- 
bers of  the  family.  If  to  all  these  questions  the  desired  an- 
swers are  given,  the  person  whose  spirit  it  is,  is  accused  of 
witchcraft,  and,  together  with  all  the  membei’s  of  the  family, 
he  must  leave  the  neighborhood  ; nor  can  they  settle  anywhere 
in  the  vicinity  of  their  home  again.  Everything  belonging  to 
them,  except  such  articles  as  can  be  easily  removed,  is  committed 
to  the  flames.  Tliey  cannot  sell  their  rice-flelds,  gardens,  houses, 
or  any  other  possession,  since  no  one  will  risk  the  supposed  con- 
tamination. Hundreds  of  families  become  outcasts  yearly.  We 
have  attemptetl  to  aid  individual  victims  hy  making  our  prem- 
ises places  of  refuge,  and  enabling  tliose  who  had  been  driven 
from  home  to  find  work  and  protection ; but  we  are  helpless  be- 
fore this  Avide-spread  and  degimling  prostitution  of  the  human 
intellect.” 

Leprosy  is  also  quite  common  among  the  Laosians,  and 
wlienever  the  disease  manifests  itself,  the  poor  victim  is 
banished  to  the  leper  villages,  and  must  spend  the  remainder 
of  his  wretched  life  in  company  with  others  as  hopeless  as 
himself.  How  like  the  day  of  doom  the  morning  of  their 
banishment  must  dawn  upon  the  lepers  when  they  go  forth 
from  all  they  have  known  and  loved.  Over  the  entrance 
to  these  leper  villages  might  well  be  written  the  old  inscrip- 
tion, “ Who  enters  here  must  leave  all  hope  behind.”  There 
is  no  more  going  to  the  market  with  flowers  in  her  hair, 
chatting  with  friends  and  neighbors  in  the  pleasant  streets. 
They  cannot  go  to  see  the  prince,  nor  follow  the  grand 
procession  on  holidays,  nor  mingle  with  the  worshippers  in 
the  beautiful  temples  when  they  lay  their  offerings  of  in- 
cense and  fragrant  flowers  before  the  gilded  images  of 
Buddha.  Not  so  much  to  be  deprived  of,  according  to  our 


LAOS,  THE  NORTH-LAND. 


353 


way  of  thinking,  but  it  is  all  that  constitutes  the  life  of  a 
heathen,  and  when  shut  out  from  it  all,  life  seems  dark 
indeed. 

Missionaries  are  in  Cheung  Mai  now,  and  have  been  for 
nearly  twenty  years,  and  God  is  blessing  their  work.  They 
have  churches,  a school,  and  hospital.  For  particulars  con- 
cerning the  latter  work  I refer  you  to  my  chapter  on  “ Med- 
ical Missions.”  The  Rev.  Messrs.  McGilvary  and  Wilson 
are  the  pioneers  who  began  the  work,  and  the  veterans  who 
are  still  carrying  it  on.  They  have  been  cheered  by  the 
arrival  of  new  helpers,  and  saddened  by  their  speedy  de- 
parture ; and  it  was  this  mission  that  was  called  to  mourn 
the  loss  of  Miss  Mary  Campbell,  whose  bright  young  life 
was  quenched  in  the  waters  of  the  Chow  Payah.  Since 
then  her  companion.  Miss  Cole,  has  returned  to  America 
for  rest  and  a change.  At  present  the  missionaries  are 
Dr,  and  Mrs.  McGilvary,  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson,  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Peoples,  Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Martin,  and  Misses  Griffin, 
Warner,  and  Wester velt. 

The  Laos  Church  has  had  its  vicissitudes,  its  times  of  per- 
secution and  martyrdom.  Two  of  the  converts  suffered 
death  for  Christ’s  sake.  Nan  Inta,  their  first  convert,  was 
one  of  the  bright  and  shining  lights  that  the  Spirit  of  God 
is  kindling  for  Himself  in  heathen  lands.  Twice  has  the 
Laos  Church  been  relieved  by  the  sudden  death  of  a fierce 
persecutor,  who  was  taken  away  while  his  hand  was  uplifted 
to  destroy.  In  1869  the  old  king  died  soon  after  the  mur- 
der of  the  martyrs,  just  as  the  missionaries  were  preparing 
to  flee  for  their  lives,  and  in  1882  Chow  Hawma,  the  sec- 
ond king,  died.  It  was  his  funeral  fete  of  which  I have 
spoken  in  this  chapter.  One  of  the  missionaries  writing  of 
him  says : 

“ He  has  always  been  our  bitter  enemy.  After  the  first  king 
went  to  Bangkok  he  had  letters  sent  throughout  the  country 
forbidding  the  people  to  come  to  us  for  any  purpose  whatsoever, 


354 


SIAM. 


and  tliat  if  any  more  joined  the  church  they  Avould  he  severely 
punished.  The  governors  were  told  to  require  the  converts  to 
obey  all  the  laws  of  the  land.  This  we  felt  was  only  opening 
the  dooi-s  for  all  kinds  of  oppression.  Just  a few  days  before 
his  death  another  and  sti-onger  letter  was  sent  to  all  the  villages, 
but  we  were  unable  to  learn  its  contents,  or  get  a copy  of  it,  as 
we  did  of  the  first.  Now,  however,  we  have  nothing  1o  fear, 
for  no  one  in  the  country  has  the  power  to  follow  his  com- 
mands, and  we  will  doubtless  be  left  alone  to  do  our  work  until 
the  return  of  the  king  and  princes  from  Bangkok,  and  Avhether 
we  are  again  troubled  %vill  depend  much  on  who  is  made  second 
king.  But  we  can  trust  and  not  be  afraid,  for  our  Father  is  the 
first  and  only  King  of  this  land  that  is  to  be  given  to  Jesus  for 
His  possession.  Our  work  is  just  as  interesting  as  it  has  ever 
been,  and  these  letter's  have  kept  none  away  from  us,  and  we 
know  they  will  not.” 

All  seems  to  be  peaceful  and  bappy  now  (1885),  and  last 
September,  when  the  birthday  of  the  King  of  Siam  was 
celebrated  at  Cheung  ]\Iai,  a dinner  was  given,  to  which 
the  great  officials  and  the  missionaries  were  invited.  The 
king  of  Cheung  Mai  sat  at  the  head  of  the  table,  and  Dr. 
hIcGilvary  was  placed  opposite,  and  both  were  called  on  for 
a toast  and  speech  suitable  to  the  occasion,  and  both  re- 
sponded. A rich  volume  might  be  written  concerning  this 
Korth-Land  and  its  people,  and  the  Gospel  work  among 
them. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 

Ever  since  tlie  conquest  of  several  of  the  Laos  states  by 
Siam  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  dynasty,  large  num- 
bers of  the  Laosian  captives,  and  refugee  adherents  of  an 
unsuccessful  prince,  who  had  fled  to  Siam,  have  been  de- 
tained as  hostages  and  slaves.  At  present  their  descendants 
number  some  twenty  or  thirty  thousand  and  are  scattered 
through  the  various  provinces,  especially  those  l}dng  near 
the  capital,  that  they  may  be  easily  drafted  for  soldiers,  or 
other  Government  service  whenever  needed.  They  have 
that  inherited  dread  of  the  sea  common  to  all  inland  tribes 
and  therefore  make  poor  sailors.  But  being  strong  and  ro- 
bust they  are  better-looking  soldiers  than  the  ordinary  Sia- 
mese. I ^vill  not  venture  to  say  much  as  to  their  flghting 
capacity,  for  having  a natural  love  of  life,  and  an  equally 
natural  lack  of  patriotic  regard  for  the  land  of  their  cap- 
tivity, we  should  not  expect  much  from  these  drafted  bond- 
men.  They  are  a down-trodden  and  oppressed  people. 
Able-bodied  men  are  required  to  serve  the  Government,  at 
their  own  charges,  three  months  out  of  the  year,  and  as 
much  more  as  the  petty  Siamese  ofiicers  can  exact  in  the 
various  districts  where  they  are  settled.  They  must  plant 
and  reap  the  king’s  rice-flelds ; go  into  the  fever-haunted 
forests  and  cut  timbers  for  the  royal  cremation  buildings ; 
make  and  repair  roads  and  bridges ; build  temporary  shel- 
ters of  bamboo  and  pahn-1  eaves  for  parties  of  royal  travel- 
lers, and  attend  them  in  their  journeys.  They  are  literal 
“ hewers  of  wood  and  drawers  of  water,”  bearers  of  burdens, 

(355) 


35G 


SIAM. 


watclimen,  boatmen,  and  so  on  to  the  bitter  end  of  the  ser- 
vile catalogue.  And  yet  with  all  this  unrequited  labor, 
they  are  so  industrious  and  frugal  that  if  you  go  into  their 
homes  there  will  be  found  a greater  appearance  of  thrift 
than  in  the  ordinary  houses  of  the  Siamese. 

The  Laos  captives  are  of  various  tribes  and  languages, 
and  a difference  in  dress  will  be  noticed.  There  seems  to 
be  no  chief  over  the  whole  tribe,  but  each  village  has  its 
“headman.”  The  people  are  usually  divided  into  three 
classes : wmodmen,  stock -raisers,  and  farmers.  The  latter 
live  in  the  villages  and  cultivate  the  outljnng  fields,  going 
and  returning  daily,  except  in  harvest-time,  when  they  are 
compelled  to  camp  in  the  fields  to  watch  their  rice  until  it 
is  cut  and  gathei-ed. 

The  Laos  villages  near  Petchaburee  look,  at  a distance, 
like  a cluster  of  weather-beaten  haystacks,  and  the  wonder 
is  where  the  people  live,  for  they  are  seen  along  the  road- 
way, or  in  the  fields  with  their  herds  of  oxen  and  buffalo. 
As  you  draw  nearer  you  discern  that  these  haystacks  are 
hollow,  and  elevated  a few  feet  from  the  ground.  By 
climbing  a bamboo  ladder  you  enter  dark,  smoky  apart- 
ments, seldom  more  than  three  in  number,  which  look  to 
our  unaccustomed  eyes  very  little  like  a home.  They  are 
dark  and  unin\'iting,  for  the  surrounding  roof  comes  down 
so  low  as  to  shut  out  not  only  the  rain,  but  most  of  the  sun- 
light and  air.  As  you  look  up,  this  roof  appears  like  a 
great  umbrella  with  bamboo  poles  for  ribs,  and  instead  of 
oaken  rafters,  or  beams  of  polished  wood,  these  ribs  of  bam- 
boo are  kept  in  place  by  twisted  ropes  of  rattan,  to  which 
is  fastened  by  withes  the  long,  coarse  swamp  grass  used  for 
thatch.  An  old  tradition  says  that  at  first  the  men  did  not 
know  how  to  thatch  roofs,  for  they  began  at  the  top  and 
tied  down.  But  the  old  widows,  who  had  to  do  the  work 
themselves,  taught  them  a better  way  by  starting  at  the 
edge  and.  working  up.  Thus  the  overlapping  grasses  were 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 


357 


not  disturbed  or  broken.  There  are  no  doors,  properly 
speaking,  nor  windows,  nor  cliimne}\  The  fire-place  is  a 
box  filled  with  earth,  having  a few  bricks  or  stones  set  up, 
on  which  to  place  the  cooking  utensils.  The  smoke  finds 
its  own  way  out  as  best  it  can.  I used  to  have  serious  ob- 
jections to  this  wholesale  smoking  of  everything  in  the  na- 
tive huts,  the  people  themselves  not  excepted,  but  I have 
come  to  look  upon  it  with  greater  favor,  and  even  consider 
it  a blessing  to  human  beings  living  in  tliis  rude  way ; for 
smoke,  as  is  well  known,  is  one  of  the  best  disinfectants  in 
the  world ; it  drives  off  the  mosquitoes  and  ants ; it  helps 
to  preserve  the  dried  fish,  beef,  buffalo  meat,  peppers,  and 
other  food  in  the  hut.  The  very  materials  of  which  the 
hut  is  made,  and  the  ox-hides  upon  which  the  people  sit 
and  sleep,  are  made  more  durable  by  the  daily  clouds  of 
incense  from  the  kitchen  altar.  Their  baskets,  and  other 
useful  articles  made  of  rattan  and  split  bamboo,  would  need 
constant  renewing  were  it  not  for  the  good  smoking  they 
receive,  for  there  is  an  ingenious  little  borer  who  soon 
makes  havoc  of  the  nicest  and  best  vneker-work  if  left  to 
revel  undisturbed  among  its  pith  and  fibre. 

The  floors  of  these  huts  are  made  of  split  bamboo,  with 
great  cracks  between  them,  so  they  never  need  sweeping. 
Delicate  lace  curtains  the  color  of  “ London  smoke  ” depend 
from  the  roof,  and  are  daily  renewed  or  repaired  by  the 
same  cunning  little  weavers  we  find  in  “kings’  palaces.” 
A few  rattan-stools  and  three-cornered  pillows  lying  upon 
the  floor,  baskets,  rice-trays,  bowls  and  plates,  cocoanut 
dippers,  betel-trays,  and  spittoons  complete  the  list  of 
furniture ; save  that  in  some  corner  you  may  find  the 
men’s  fishing-tackle,  also  hatching-baskets  full  of  silk- 
worms, a cotton  separator,  reels,  and  spinning-wheels,  just 
such  as  you  find  in  China,  Siberia,  and  Brazil.  That  is  the 
women’s  special  domain,  and  their  busy  fingers  are  seldom 
idle.  The  manufacture  of  cloth  for  all  domestic  purposes 


358 


SIAM. 


is  left  entirely  to  her.  She  can  gather  the  cotton  under 
the  burning  sun,  trudge  weary  miles  with  her  baby  tied  on 
her  back  to  the  city  to  buy  pails  of  dyestuff  from  the 
Chinese  dyers,  or  to  gather  mulberry  leaves  wherever  slie 
can  find  them  for  her  silk-worms.  They  boil  the  cocoons 
to  loosen  the  silk,  and  when  they  have  wound  off  all  the 
thread  they  eat  the  worms.  These  are  regarded  as  quite  a 
delicacy.  I had  a dish  presented  to  me  once,  but  I could 
not  bear  to  taste  them  even ; and  yet  why  should  they  not 
be  food  as  well  as  oysters  or  snails,  birds’-nests  or  horse- 
fiesh  ? The  woman  can  card  and  spin  and  weave,  dye  and 
embroider,  until  back  and  eyes  ai’e  completely  tired  out. 
She  can  embroider  scarfs,  pillows,  and  shrouds.  I have 
never  seen  embroidered  skirts  among  these  Laos,  but  they 
weave  bright  silken  threads  among  the  blue  and  white 
cotton,  and  make  very  pretty  stripes. 

The  cotton  separator  reminds  one  of  a patent  clothes- 
wringer,  except  that  the  rollers  are  not  rubber  and  do  not 
turn  on  cog-wheels,  but  on  themselves,  being  made  of  hard 
wood,  and  having  the  outer  ends  finished  like  screws,  with 
the  threads  running  in  opposite  directions.  Their  looms 
are  very  simple  and  primitive,  and  they  weave  nothing  but 
the  coai’sest  cloth.  The  loom  is  usually  set  up  under  the 
house  on  the  “ ground  floor,”  and  near  by  smugs  the  ham- 
mock in  which  baby  sleeps  while  mother  weaves.  Gathered 
about,  so  as  to  be  under  shelter,  are  the  dye  pots  and  the 
large  mortar  where  the  daily  rice  is  hulled,  also  the  pens 
for  cattle,  buffalo,  pigs,  and  chickens.  Iso  wonder  they 
need  a smudge,  and  enjoy  the  smell  of  smoke.  Then,  too, 
these  evening  fires  are  pleasant  places  around  which  the 
young  girls  sit  and  spin  and  embroidei’,  or  play  games 
when  the  young  men  come  to  visit  them.  Their  simple, 
unromantic  ways  remind  one  of  old  Bible  tunes,  and  they 
even  have  a custom  of  serving  for  a wife,  as  Jacob  did  for 
his  beloved  Bachel.  They  are  very  fond  of  music,  and 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 


359 


love  to  sing  and  dance.  Many  of  tlie  young  men  have 
curious  reed  organs  upon  which  tliey  play  skillfully.  They 
are  light  and  sweet-toned,  and  are  very  well  adapted  to 
their  wild  and  weird  melodies.  You  can  hear  them  an- 
swering each  other  through  the  night  as  they  come  from 
far  away  to  visit  the  pretty,  black-eyed  girls  in  the  distant 
villages,  and  you  can  imagine  those  same  girls  listening  in- 
tently for  the  familiar  notes  they  love  best  in  all  the  baud. 
Then  they  will  adjust  their  silver  bracelets,  recount  their 
rings,  and  give  their  black  scarf,  embroidered  with  bright 
silks,  a graceful  toss  over  their  shoulder,  and  prepare  to 
look  as  careless  and  unconcerned  as  shy  maidens  do  in 
every  other  laud.  They  all  expect  to  marry,  and  therefore 
begin  to  prepare  their  wedding  outfit  ere  they  enter  their 
teens.  They  spin  and  weave  diligently,  and  care  not  hov/ 
much  they  are  teased  because  their  hands  are  stained  with 
dye,  and  on  their  wedding-day  they  are  very  proud  of  the 
baskets  of  cloth  and  garments  carried  in  the  bridal  pro- 
cession. Their  dress  is  a black  jacket  with  silver  buttons, 
a scarf,  and  a blue  and  white  striped  skirt.  The  stripes  in 
the  skirt  run  up  and  down,  instead  of  round  the  body,  as 
those  of  the  North  Laosians  do.  The  skirt  is  of  three  pieces, 
and  is  kept  in  place  by  drawing  it  tightly  round  the  body, 
giving  it  a twist,  then  a nip  and  a tuck.  The  entire  ab- 
sence of  strings,  pins,  hooks,  and  eyes  seems  very  strange. 
Their  scarf  is  sometimes  worn  as  a headdress,  and  they  tie 
little  packages  in  one  end  of  it,  or  money  in  the  coi’uers. 
They  have  a set  of  pockets,  something  like  an  old- 
fashioned  housewife,  that  they  can  roll  up,  in  which  they 
carry  tobacco,  betel,  and  ceri-leaf,  that  they  may  refill  their 
mouths  whenever  they  dispose  of  a useless  quid  ; for,  like 
the  Siamese,  all  are  addicted  to  the  filthy  habit  of  betel- 
chewing. 

Their  jewelry  is  all  silver.  They  have  great  holes  in 
the  lobe  of  the  ear,  in  which  they  wear  silver  ornaments 


3G0 


S/AM. 


like  cuff-buttons.  They  have  silver  hoops  for  necklaces, 
and  bands  and  coils  for  anklets,  bracelets,  and  rings.  Son:e 
of  the  latter  are  very  curious.  I purchased  several  made 
of  coils  of  silver  wire  that  had  sixteen  spirals  in  each.  The 
women  have  long  black  hair,  and  when  young  care  for  it, 
combing  it  nicely  and  looping  it  into  a large  glossy  bow-knot 
like  a butterfly  perched  on  the  top  of  their  heads  ; and  they 
also  put  flowers  under  its  wings  after  the  fashion  of  their 
great-great-grandmothers  in  that  far-away  Isorth-Land  be- 
fore their  captivity.  The  men  wear  respectable  suits — pan- 
taloons and  coat  of  plain  black  cotton,  the  latter  fastened 
with  silver  buttons.  They  also  have  silver  rings  on  their 
fingers.  They  have  a sort  of  overcoat  they  wear  on  special 
occasions.  It  is  long  and  wide  and  embroidered  with  silk, 
and  ornamented  with  strips  of  colored  cloth,  both  silk  and 
cotton.  The  women  often  come  to  us  to  beg  scraps  of 
bright  cloth  for  this  pur]30se.  They  also  have  a robe  of 
similar  design,  though  modified  in  shape.  These  garments 
are  usually  kept  for  gala-days,  weddings,  and  funerals,  and 
finally  become  the  wearer's  shroud  when  he  lies  in  state  to 
be  wailed  ovei*,  feasted,  and  worshipped  before  he  is  cre- 
mated. 

The  Laos  have  clear,  olive  complexions,  bright  eyes,  and 
beautiful  teeth,  and  their  features  are  decidedly  European. 
Full  negro  lips  are  rarely  seen,  and  I have  never  met  a 
curly  head.  The  men  have  no  beards.  Some  of  the  chil- 
dren are  quite  beautiful ; but  when  they  grow  old  and 
weather-beaten,  tanned  by  exposure  to  wind  and  sun,  they 
become  swarthy,  and  remind  me  of  the  Ute  Indians  in  the 
Eocky  Mountains.  And  yet  we  find  some  venerable-look- 
ing old  men  and  gray-haired  women  for  whom  we  fain 
would  'ndsh  a better  fate  than  the  life  aud  death  of  a 
heathen.  Their  language  is  rough  and  guttural,  aud  usu- 
ally spoken  in  a loud  tone.  In  the  villages  we  heai’  nothing 
but  Laos,  yet  all  learn  the  Siamese  as  they  grow  older  aud 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 


361 


begin  to  trade  in  tbe  market  towns.  Their  food  is  very- 
plain  and  coarse.  They  literally  eat  “ locusts  and  wild 
honey.”  They  often  bring  the  honey  in  the  comb,  and 
still  clinging  to  its  bamboo  branch,  to  sell  to  us.  I do  not 
know  how  they  catch  the  locusts,  but  they  roast  them,  and 
think  them  very  rich  and  good.  They  also  eat  the  bee- 
bread  and  the  half-formed  bees,  frogs,  snails,  certain  kinds 
of  snakes  and  lizards,  turtles,  bats,  and  the  roots,  bark, 
twigs,  and  leaves  of  trees.  They  gather  wild  vines  and 
herbs  from  the  mountain-side,  and  wild  fruits  from  the 
forest,  mushrooms  from  the  bogs,  and  food  from  every 
available  place  ; they  even  eat  the  flesh  of  beasts  that  die, 
and  say  it  is  purifled  by  the  fire  that  cooks  it,  and  the  Sia- 
mese do  the  same. 

They  are  kind-hearted  and  very  fond  of  children.  Drunk- 
enness is  their  chief  vice.  They  sit  around  a pot  of  home- 
brewed rice-beer,  and  suck  it  through  slender  pipes  till  they 
are  “ too  full  for  utterance.”  They  comj)el  one  another  to 
drink,  and  one  might  often  find  a whole  village,  even  the 
women,  the  boys,  and  the  girls,  so  tipsy  they  could  hardly 
find  the  way  to  their  own  huts.  Drinking  is  a daily  sin. 
As  the  gkmmen  grow  older  they  seem  to  give  it  up  and  go 
to  making  merit,  but  the  old  men  do  nothing  but  di’ink 
and  carouse.  They  seldom  fight  hard  enough  to  kill. 

The  religion  of  these  Laos  is  a strange  jumble.  They 
believe,  first  and  best  of  all,  in  a Great  Spirit  who  dwells 
in  the  sky.  But  they  add  to  this  lesser  spirits  of  earth,  air, 
and  water,  a god  of  the  hills,  like  Pan  of  old,  and  a god  of 
the  valleys.  They  believe  in  demons,  devils,  and  the  ghosts 
of  their  ancestors ; and  all  these  are  their  enemies,  and 
must  be  appeased  by  worship,  gifts,  and  feasting.  They 
are  not  usually  idolaters,  and  in  many  of  their  villages  have 
neither  temple  nor  holy  place. 

A few  of  their  young  men  are  beginning  to  enter  the 
Buddliist  monasteries  as  priests,  but  it  is  contrary  to  their 
16 


362 


SIAM. 


ancient  customs.  Of  course  tlieir  relatives  must  feed  tliem 
and  worship  them  as  other  Buddhists  do,  hut  as  yet  it  is 
no  throwing  away  of  the  old  devil-worship,  but  only  the 
addition  of  the  more  prominent  Buddhist  customs  to  their 
own  old  rites  and  ceremonies.  They  have  no  sacred  day 
corresponding  to  our  Sabbath  or  the  Buddhist’s  seventh 
day,  but  every  twelfth  day  is  sacred  to  these  Laos ; and 
having  no  calendars,  that  they  may  not  lose  their  count, 
they  have  twelve  shells  in  a little  box  with  two  compart- 
ments, and  each  day  they  remove  one  shell  from  one  side 
to  the  other,  until  all  are  gone,  when  that  is  a sacred  day, 
and  the  same  process  is  repeated  throughout  the  year. 
Each  of  these  twelve  days  has  a name — as  the  day  of  the 
turtle,  the  lizard,  and  so  forth. 

Spirit  altars  are  in  every  house,  upon  which  they  place 
ofierings  for  their  ancestors  every  twelfth  day.  The  time 
for  offerings  is  counted  from  the  death-day  of  the  father  of 
the  family ; so  there  is  no  uniformity  in  their  sacred  days, 
and  no  special  concert  of  worship.  They  place  food,  such 
as  the  old  man  loved  to  eat,  and  betel  and  tobacco  upon 
the  altar.  It  is  left  there  as  long  as  it  takes  an  ordinary 
person  to  consume  that  amount,  when  it  is  careiully  re- 
moved and  eaten  by  the  members  of  the  household.  Aii 
incredulous  observer  once  asked  an  old  woman  how  the 
spirits  partook  of  the  food,  as  there  always  seemed  to  be 
as  much  left  as  had  been  placed  on  the  altar.  “ Ugh,”  she 
grunted,  “ grasshoppers  take  it  to  them.” 

The  number  twelve  is  of  great  significance  and  enters 
into  their  old  legends  and  tales ; for  instance,  they  tell  that 
in  the  beginning  of  the  world  there  were  twelve  couples, 
the  parents  of  twelve  tribes  and  languages.  Once  every 
year  they  build  an  altar  to  the  Sky  Spirit,  or  '''•Pee  Fa,'^ 
having  twelve  steps  or  tiers,  and  on  them  are  placed  twelve 
trays  of  meat  curry,  prepai'ed  from  the  fiesh  of  buffalo. 
They  take  two  of  these  animals,  a white  one  and  a black 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 


363 


one,  and  offer  tliem  in  sacrifice,  in  the  vain  hope  that  they  _ 
■will  thereby  be  protected  from  plague  and  death.  They 
pour  out  the  blood  like  the  old  Israelites,  but  sometimes  a 
thrifty  fisherman  saves  it  to  dye  his  fish-nets,  and  make 
them  tough  and  strong.  In  times  of  cholera  or  any  other 
prevalent  disease  they  erect  an  altar  to  this  “Pee  Fa,”  and 
repeat  the  sacrifices  already  mentioned.  A few  years  ago 
when  the  cholera  raged  so  fatally  some  of  the  lesser  Laos 
villages  were  entirely  deserted,  and  whole  families  died  out. 
In  their  desperation  they  slew  their  cattle  in  sacrifice  and 
left  the  bodies  to  decompose  around  their  dwellings,  which 
but  added  to  the  "vurulence  of  the  plague.  They  know 
nothing  of  prayer  as  we  understand  it,  for  instead  of  asking 
the  higher  powers  to  come  near  and  help  and  bless  them, 
they  entreat  them  to  keep  far  away  from  their  dwellings 
and  not  to  harm  them.  They  beg  the  ghosts  of  their  an- 
cestors not  to  trouble  them,  nor  take  any  off  by  death  to 
the  world  of  spirits. 

They  do  not  believe  in  -witchcraft  as  the  Ilorth  Laos  do, 
yet  they  do  hold  to  spirit-possession,  and  they  pretend  to 
drive  out  the  evil  one  by  exorcism.  Placing  food  at  the 
head  of  the  ladder  leading  into  their  huts  they  invite  the 
evil  spirit,  after  it  has  gone  out  of  the  person,  to  eat  its 
fill  and  begone.  But  instead  of  waiting  for  it  to  go  peace- 
ably the  spirit-doctor  goes  to  the  spot,  and  wildly  slashing 
the  air  with  knives  and  other  weapons  pretends  to  cut  it  to 
pieces.  For  the  ordinary  patient  they  make  offerings  to 
the  spirits  'without  trying  to  drive  them  out,  believing  that 
some  diseases  are  the  effect  of  outside  influences.  They 
kill  an  ox  every  four  or  five  days,  if  the  man  is  wealthy, 
and  make  a feast  for  the  entire  village ; if  poor,  they  con- 
tent themselves  with  pigs  and  chickens ; of  course  these 
savory  curries  are  accompanied  by  great  baskets  of  steamed, 
glutinous  rice,  vegetables,  and  fruit,  with  a generous  dessert 
of  rice-wine,  betel,  and  tobacco.  But  if,  after  all,  the  patient 


SIAM. 


3Gi 

dies,  botli  he  and  his  impoverished  friends  are  consoled  by 
the  thought  that  he  will  reap  the  benefit  of  all  these  foolish 
feasts  in  the  world  to  come.  Their  ideas  of  the  future  life 
are  vague,  but  all  believe  in  immortality  and  think  that  in 
heaven  all  will  be  masters  and  can  eat  and  drink  their  fill 
without  having  to  work  for  it. 

They  have  many  strange  legends  and  spirit  stories,  “ old 
wives’  fables.”  They  tell  of  the  fiood  during  which  it 
rained  seven  days  and  seven  nights,  and  all  the  birds  were 
set  free  instead  of  only  the  raven  and  dove  of  Noah,  and 
all  the  people  perished.  then  sent  down  a 

couple  of  persons  from  heaven  to  repeople  the  earth.  In 
time  they  became  great  and  had  many  languages. 

They  say  that  long  ago  the  rice  grew  in  very  large  grains. 
But  a poor  man  died  before  the  rice  harvest,  and  his  widow 
had  to  gather  in  the  grain  alone.  The  rice  grains  were  so 
large  and  heavy  she  could  not  lift  them,  therefore  she  took 
a knife  and  cut  them  into  small  bits,  and  ever  since  the  rice 
has  grown  in  small  grains.  Perhaps  that  is  the  reason  why 
nearly  all  these  chivalrous  Orientals  still  leave  the  rice  har- 
vest to  the  women.  The  grains  ai'e  now  too  small  for  the 
men  to  stoop  for. 

Another  strange  set  of  stories  are,  that  the  sky  used  to  be 
so  close  down  to  the  earth  that  when  the  people  hulled  their 
rice  in  the  mortar  the  pestle  struck  the  vault  overhead  and 
caused  it  to  thunder  all  through  heaven  ; and  that  there  was 
a tall  tree,  called  the  “ Sky  Opener,”  up  which  good  people 
climbed  into  heaven.  One  can  but  wonder  if  those  discon- 
tented and  desperate  mortals  in  other  parts  of  the  earth 
who  threaten  to  “ leave  this  world  and  climb  a tree,”  ever 
heard  this  old  Laos  myth,  and  had  a vague  longing  to  fol- 
low them  to  the  abodes  of  bliss.  But  these  captive  Laos 
are  learning  better,  truer  things  than  this.  There  is  a tree 
that  opens  heaven,  a wondrous,  bitter  tree,  and  Christ  who 
hung  upon  it  said,  “ I,  if  I be  lifted  up  will  draw  all  men 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 


365 


unto  me,”  and  already  more  than  one  of  these  poor  heathen 
has  been  made  willing  to  go  by  way  of  the  cross. 

A Laos  widow,  who  lived  with  us  for  several  years,  told 
me  of  some  of  their  customs.  They  burn  the  dead,  like 
the  Siamese,  with  protracted  ceremonies  and  funeral  feasts. 
For  a rich  man  an  ox  is  slain  each  day  and  prepared  for 
the  guests.  The  body  is  laid  in  state  and  the  table  set 
before  him ; there  all  assemble,  and  after  the  spirit-doctor 
has  finished  his  incantations  (they  have  no  priests),  and  in- 
vited not  only  the  dead  man  to  partake,  but  all  his  ancestors, 
they  wait  a reasonable  time  for  the  spirit-feast,  and  then 
the  living  friends  devour  the  food.  If  they  cannot  afford 
oxen,  they  substitute  pigs  and  chickens,  and  all  who  help  fur- 
nish food  for  these  funeral  feasts  hope  thereby  to  escape  the 
molestations  of  the  ghost.  Sometimes,  as  in  the  cholera 
season,  the  body  is  buried  without  being  burned.  But  the 
usual  custom  is  to  bury  only  the  charred  bones.  Over  the 
grave  they  erect  a small  bamboo  house,  and  in  it  lay  gifts 
for  the  dead.  If  a man,  costly  silk  cloths,  and  from  ten  to 
fifty  pieces  of  native  cotton  cloth ; for  a woman,  from  five 
to  twenty  pieces  of  cloth,  also  garments  such  as  the  Laos 
w'ear,  and  a rice-pot  containing  various  articles  of  food, 
betel,  and  tobacco.  They  vie  with  each  other  in  the  cost- 
liness of  the  funeral  feasts  and  the  quality  and  quantity  of 
goods  left  to  rot  upon  the  grave.  The  Laos  are  buried  in 
tlie  long  black  robes  already  described  as  gala  dresses.  In 
the  neck-band  a piece  of  silver  money  is  fastened  for  the 
use  of  the  spirit  in  its  journey — to  pay  the  ferryman  over 
the  river  Styx,  perhaps.  They  do  not  put  this  money  in 
the  mouth  like  the  Siamese,  because  it  might  be  dropped 
in  crossing  the  dark  river  to  the  other  world,  and  the 
departed  could  not  talk  to  those  he  met  if  he  had  money  in 
his  mouth. 

There  is  a peculiar  kind  of  withe  they  use  in  tying  on 
the  thatch  of  their  huts.  They  roll  this  up  into  balls,  and 


3G6  . 


SIAM. 


tlirowing  it  into  the  grave-lionse,  say : “ Take  this ; it  will 
become  silver  in  the  other  world ; use  it  for  your  needs.” 

!Ma  Ting  had  a little  son  named  “You,”  whom  we  all 
loved.  He  was  in  the  mission-school  for  several  years,  and 
learned  that  best  of  all  knowledge,  to  love  Christ.  He  fell 
sick,  and  as  we  had  no  physician  here,  his  mother  took  him 
to  her  native  village.  But  he  would  not  permit  the  Laos 
doctors  to  perform  their  heathen  ceremonies  or  spirit- 
incantations  over  him.  He  stoutly  maintained  that  “he 
belonged  to  God,”  and  that  “ he  believed  in  his  grand- 
father’s way,”  who  is  a Christian.  He  was  sick  a long 
time,  and  at  last  died,  trusting  in  Jesus.  He  left  word 
that  they  should  bury  him  with  his  Bible  in  his  hands. 
His  mother’s  last  question  was,  “ How  are  you  now  ? ” 
“My  heart  is  well,”  said  he,  and  died.  Since  then  the 
widow  also  has  died,  and  a little  brother,  and  we  trust  all 
are  safe.  The  dear  old  grandfather  still  lives,  earnest  and 
steadfast  in  the  faith.  His  conversion  was  truly  wonderful. 
He  was  first  awakened  by  reading  one  of  Dr.  Bradley’s  old 
calendars  that  somehow  fell  into  his  hands.  He  was  struck 
with  the  tables  telling  of  the  sun  and  moon,  and  he  con- 
cluded that  if  the  foreigners  knew  so  much  more  of  the 
sun  and  moon  than  the  Laos,  they  must  also  know  more  of 
heaven  and  how  to  get  there.  He  procured  portions  of 
the  Scriptures  and  read  them  diligently,  and  was  converted 
before  he  ever  heard  a sermon.  Here  is  another  picture, 
of  Xau  Inta,  the  fii’st-fruits  of  the  Gospel  among  the 
Xorthern  Laos,  and  as  we  contemplate  the  two,  we  may 
get  a new  realization  of  how  wonderfully  “the  heavens 
declare  the  glory  of  God,”  and  that  “His  ways  are  past 
finding  out 

“ Nan  Inta,”  says  Rev.  Dr.  McFarland,  “ being  of  an  inquir- 
ing nund  and  unsatisfied  ■nfith  Buddhism,  wliich  be  had  thor- 
oughly studied,  he,  from  curiosity,  visited  the  missionaries  on 
their  arrival,  and  was  pleased  with  the  story  of  the  Gospel,  and 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 


367 


particularly  with,  the  plan  of  salvation  therein  revealed,  if  true. 
But  how  shall  he  know  that  it  is  true  ? 

“ One  week  before  the  great  solar  eclipse  which  occurred  on 
the  18th  of  August,  1868 — one  of  the  most  remarkable  that  has 
ever  been  witnessed — ^he  visited  the  missionary,  and  was  told 
that  on  a certain  day  there  would  be  an  eclipse  of  the  sun. 
Their  religious  belief  concerning  an  eclipse  is,  that  it  is  caused 
by  a huge  monster  in  the  air  trying  to  swallow  the  srun  and  the 
moon,  and  the  idea  that  any  one  could  foretell  such  an  occirr- 
rence  seemed  wonderful.  How  anxiously  did  he  wait  to  see  the 
result ! 

“ The  very  day  and  hour  predicted  the  phenomenon  occurred. 
Nan  Inta  seemed  to  be  bewildered.  The  foundation  of  his  trust 
in  Buddhism  was  shaken.  It  had  deceived  him  in  things  relat- 
ing to  this  world,  and  could  he  trust  it  for  the  future  ? This  was 
doubtful.  But  could  he  trust  in  the  Christian’s  Savioiu’  ? He 
was  so  aroused  to  thought  and  impressed  with  the  ability  of 
those  who  believe  in  the  Christian  religion,  that  he  began  the 
study  of  the  Gospel  with  eagerness,  and  was  soon  baptized. 

“ The  eclipse  refeired  to  was  witnessed  by  the  late  King  of 
Siam,  his  com’tiers,  and  many  of  the  European  residents  in  the 
country,  at  a temporary  observatory  erected  in  a dense  jungle 
at  ‘ Hua  Wean  ’ — ‘ Whale’s  Head  ’ — on  the  western  shore  of  the 
Gulf.  It  was  while  visiting  this  place  to  witness  the  eclipse  tliat 
the  king  contracted  the  fever  which  ended  his  earthly  hfe.  This 
eclipse  was  refeired  to  in  January  of  1869  by  Prof.  Proctor,  in  a 
lectrrre  in  Association  Hall,  New  York,  as  having  settled  the 
interesting  fact  of  those  solar  prominences  which  before  that 
were  supposed  by  astronomers  to  belong  to  the  atmosphere  of 
the  moon.  By  this  eclipse  they  were  proved  to  be  on  the  sun. 

“How  interesting  a fact,  tliat  while  scientists  were  gazing 
upon  this  phenomenon  and  settling  great  facts  in  astronomy, 
God  was  making  use  of  it  to  bring  a dark-minded  heathen  into 
the  glorious  light  of  the  Go.spel ! ” 

But  let  us  now  return  to  Pa  Ang,  onr  captive  Laos.  For 
a score  of  years  he  was  the  only  convert  in  the  Laos  village. 
Although  a bamboo  chapel  had  been  built  and  frequent 
services  held,  the  villagers  met  together  in  council  and  de- 
liberately said,  “We  will  not  give  up  our  old  beliefs  and 


368 


SIAM. 


accept  Christ.”  The  former  missionaries,  Mr.  McGilvary 
and  Mr.  Wilson,  who  had  been  deeply  interested  in  them, 
removed  to  Cheung  Mai  to  labor  more  directly  among  the 
Laos  in  their  native  land.  The  little  chapel  went  to  ruin, 
but  old  Pa  Ang,  ever  faithful,  trudged  to  church  at  Petcha- 
buree  Sabbath  after  Sabbath.  At  last  a nephew  professed 
Christ,  and  the  old  man’s  heart  was  filled  with  joy,  and  he 
delighted  in  his  httle  grandson,  and  rejoiced  over  his  happy 
death  with  chastened  gladness.  Then  his  daughter  came 
seeking  salvation,  and  a granddaughter  united  with  the 
church,  and  two  other  members  of  his  family.  And  since 
I began  to  write  tliis  chapter,  Za,  a little  granddaughter, 
came  to  tell  me  she  -wished  to  be  baptized.  “ Why 
do  you  wish  to  join  the  church  ? ” said  I.  “ Because  Jesus 
loved  us  so  that  He  came  do-wn  from  heaven  and  died  upon 
the  cross.”  “Do  you  love  Him?”  “Yes,  I love  Him.” 
“ And  do  you  think  you  can  serve  Him  ? ” “ If  God  does 

not  help  me  I cannot,  but  if  He  helps  I can.”  And  God  will 
help  not  only  La,  but  all  others  in  the  tribe  whom  He  has 
chosen  for  His  own.  La  has  been  in  one  of  my  schools  for 
several  years.  She  is  fitted  for  a teacher,  but  is  not  yet  old 
enough  to  have  charge  of  a school,  as  she  is  not  quite  twelve, 
but  we  use  her  as  an  assistant. 

A school  has  been  opened  among  the  people,  and  we  have 
had  perhaps  a hundred  pupils  from  the  different  villages, 
but  the  boys  come  very  irregularly,  and  the  girls  begrudge 
the  time  taken  from  the  preparation  of  their  wedding  out- 
fits to  learn  to  read.  Last  month  a party  of  us  went  in  the 
wagon  to  one  of  their  villages  to  give  a magic-lantern  en- 
tertainment. Some  four  hundred  gathered  to  look  aiid 
listen  as  the  scenes  from  Christ’s  wonderful  life  were 
thrown,  one  at  a time,  upon  the  canvas  and  explained  by 
Mr.  Dunlap.  We  greatly  enjoyed  the  outdoor  meeting — 
the  pleasant  evening  air,  the  dai’kness,  the  upturned  faces, 
the  glowing  pictures  full  of  fife  and  light  and  salvation,  if 


THE  CAPTIVE  LAOS  IN  SIAM. 


369 


tliey  'will  but  believe  in  Him  who  was  there  portrayed. 
They  were  delighted,  and  wanted  the  canvas  to  glow  all 
night,  and  then  invited  us  to  come  again  and  again. 

What  an  interesting  people  they  are  ! W e are  hopeful, 
too,  for  their  future,  and  believe  that  a brighter,  better  day 
will  dawn  for  these  captive  Laos. 


16* 


CHAPTER  XL. 


SEETOXE  AXD  HIS  AUGEL-BEIDE,  MONOKA — A LAOS  LEGEND. 

In  the  far-aivay  land  of  Chiimpah  lived  Seetone,  renowned 
for  his  bravery  and  beauty.  One  day,  as  he  was  wandering 
through  the  forests,  he  came  upon  a pool  of  clear,  cool  wa- 
ter, fringed  about  with  ferns  and  wild-wood  flowers.  A 
few  stray  sunbeams  that  glinted  through  the  overhanging 
branches  danced  upon  its  rippling  surface ; the  birds  drop- 
ped down  to  bathe,  and  the  deer  came  to  the  brink  to  allay 
their  thirst. 

As  he  stood  gazing  upon  the  lovely  scene  he  was  startled 
by  the  rustle  of  wings  and  peals  of  silvery  laughter.  He 
retreated  into  the  shadow,  and  looking  up  saw  with  amaze- 
ment a band  of  angels  flying  from  heaven.  They  laved 
their  beautiful  forms  in  the  cool  waters  of  the  lake,  and 
■swam  and  played  and  splashed  about  in  perfect  abandon- 
ment of  delight.  As  he  caught  glimpses  of  their  faces  one 
by  one,  each  seemed  more  beautiful  than  her  companion. 

Attracted  by  some  flowers  on  the  brink,  one  of  the  an- 
gels, named  Monora,  or  Luklatan,  swam  near  his  covert ; 
and  when,  at  the  impulse  of  his  love,  he  caught  her  flutter- 
ing wings,  the  others  flew  with  a stai’tled  cry  to  their  native 
heaven.  Y ery  gently  he  wooed  her  to  his  home ; and  when  he 
had  gained  her  love  and  confidence,  he  removed  her  wings, 
and  consigned  them  to  his  mother  for  safe  keeping. 

The  days  and  months  flew  quickly  by,  and  Seetone  was 
perfectly  happy  with  his  angel-bride.  But  a brave  prince 
from  a neighboring  realm,  hearing  of  her  wondrous  beauty, 
came  with  an  army  to  secure  her  for  his  own.  Seetone 
(370) 


SEE  TONE  AND  HIS  ANGEL-BRIDE. 


371 


went  ont  to  battle,  having  a garland  of  fragrant  flowers 
about  his  neck  which  Monora  had  woven  and  placed  there, 
saying,  “ Take  these,  my  true  love,  and  as  long  as  they  are 
fresh  and  fragrant,  be  assured  of  my  welfare  and  safety.” 
During  the  long,  weary  march,  and  in  many  a pitched  bat- 
tle, the  garland  retained  its  freshness  and  beauty.  But  one 
day  near  the  close  of  a desperate  battle,  when  Seetone  had 
almost  gained  the  victory,  the  garland  suddenly  withered 
and  dropped  dry  and  scentless  at  his  feet.  With  one  great 
heart-throb  of  agony  he  fainted  away.  Immediately  he  was 
at  his  home,  when  his  mother  told  him  that,  hearing  no 
tidings  from  the  battle-field,  and  fearing  for  the  safety  of 
his  angel-bride,  she  had  restored  the  hidden  wings,  when 
Monora  at  once  soared  sunward  and  was  lost  to  sight. 

Seetone,  taking  a ring  which  she  had  given  him,  and 
bidding  farewell  to  his  mother  and  to  earth,  by  the  exercise 
of  his  inherent  power  mounted  up,  and  riding  upon  the 
clouds  soon  came  to  the  river  which  flows  between  earth 
and  heaven.  He  could  not  cross,  for  the  waves  devoured 
every  one  who  attempted  the  passage.  So  he  changed  him- 
self into  a mosquito,  and  clinging  to  the  tail  of  a crow  was 
borne  safely  to  the  other  side.  He  resumed  his  natural 
form,  and  sat  down  to  rest  in  a sola  by  a river  of  clear, 
sweet  water.  Soon  a maiden  came  tripping  down  the  path, 
with  her  buckets  swinging  lightly  over  her  shoulder  to  dip 
water  for  her  mistress’  bath.  He  craved  a drink,  which 
she  kindly  granted.  While  quaffing  the  sweet  water,  he 
quietly  slipped  Monora’s  ring  into  the  vessel,  and  the 
maiden  bore  it  with  her  into  the  heavenly  palace.  As  her 
waiting  mistress  threw  up  her  hands  to  receive  the  gi-ateful 
shower  which  she  poured  upon  her  lovely  form,  the  ring 
fell  with  the  sparkling  drops  and  encircled  her  finger. 
That  instant  she  felt  a thrill  of  the  old  love  which  once 
animated  her  beiiig ; and  seeing  the  ring,  her  own  ring 
which  she  had  once  given  to  Seetone,  she  inquired  if  the 


372 


SIAM. 


maid  had  seen  any  one  hy  the  river  hank.  "WTien  told 
of  the  noble  stranger  to  whom  she  had  given  drink,  the 
mistress’  heart  trembled  with  delight,  and  hastily  summon- 
ing Seetone,  they  renewed  their  vows  of  love  and  devotion. 
ISIonora  gave  Seetone  wings,  mightier  and  stronger  than 
her  own,  and  endowed  him  with  immortality  and — there 
my  Laos  friend  stopped,  saying : “ There  is  more  of  the 
story,  but  I have  forgotten  it.”  “hTever  mind,”  said  I; 
“ that  is  a good  place  to  leave  them : happy  in  heaven.” 


CHAPTEE  XLI. 


btjddha’s  crystal  tooth. 

Here  is  the  Siamese  version  of  the  story  of  Buddha’s 
tooth : When  the  great  teacher  died  his  disciples  burned 
his  body,  and  then  the  bones  •were  heaped  together  as  sacred 
relics.  Kings  and  princes  from  all  lands  ■where  his  teach- 
ings were  believed  came  to  secure  a share  of  them.  Each 
was  anxious  to  get  the  largest  and  best.  But  a Brahmin 
high-priest,  taking  up  a golden  basin,  said  he  would  divide 
the  precious  store,  giving  to  all  the  same  measure.  To  this 
they  agreed. 

As  he  filled  and  refilled  the  basin  he  discovered  one  of 
the  large  eye-teeth.  Thinking  it  the  most  precious  relic  of 
all  because  it  grew  in  the  mouth  of  him  who  spake  such 
wonderful  words,  he  slyly  hid  it  in  his  long  hair,  which 
was  knotted  at  the  back  of  his  head.  Then  he  gave  away 
all  the  bones  to  the  kings  and  princes,  who,  seeing  he  re- 
served nothing  for  himself,  remonstrated  ; but  he  said  he 
needed  none.  They  returned  to  their  kingdoms  -with  glad- 
ness and  great  joy,  to  build  dagabas,  pagodas,  prachadees, 
wats,  and  shrines  for  the  holy  bones. 

Pra  In,  the  god  who  sees  and  knows  everything,  saw  the 
tooth  in  the  Brahmin’s  hair,  and  concluding  that  such  a de- 
ceiver ought  not  to  have  that  most  precious  of  all  the  holy 
relics  of  Buddha,  he  caught  it  away  from  the  wicked  man. 
When  the  Brahmin  put  his  hand  up  to  make  sure  the  price- 
less treasure  was  safe,  he  discovered  to  his  great  grief  that 
the  tooth  was  gone,  and  of  all  his  grand  opportmiities 

(373) 


374 


SIAM. 


nothing  remained  in  his  hand  hnt  the  empty  golden  basin. 
He  thought  of  the  many  times  he  had  filled  it  and  given 
the  holy  contents  to  those  far-avay  kings  and  princes.  And 
now  he  would  have  given  his  life  almost  for  one  little  bone. 
But  the  way  was  long  and  weary,  and  besides,  as  he  was 
ashamed  to  go  and  beg  for  what  he  had  once  refused,  he 
was  left  in  despair.  Finally  he  set  up  the  golden  basin, 
and  it  has  been  worshipped  ever  since. 

Here  the  legend  ended,  and  when  I asked  the  woman 
who  told  me,  “ What  became  of  Buddha’s  tooth  ? ” she 
said,  “ Mi  saap  ” — “ I do  not  know.”  I suggested  the 
legend  I had  heard  of  its  being  found  in  the  heart  of  a 
lotus,  and  now  enshrined  in  a curious  old  temple  in  Ceylon. 
“ Oh ! ” said  she,  “ I suppose  Pra  In  put  it  there  to  be 
found  by  whoever  had  merit  enough  to  see  the  sacred 
crystal.”  * 

The  sequel  to  the  story  was  told  me  later  by  one  who 
said  Pra  In  carried  the  tooth  to  the  second  heaven,  called 
“ Dawahdhung,”  and  put  it  in  an  emerald  pagoda,  and  that 
many  devout  Buddhists  place  flowers  and  tapers  in  the 
hands  of  the  dead  to  offer  at  this  emerald  shrine  in  heaven. 
He  also  said  that  four  teeth  of  the  holy  Buddha  have  been 
preserved — the  right  upper  eye-tooth  in  heaven,  the  left 
upper  in  Ceylon,  the  lower  right  in  India,  and  the  lower 
left  is  with  the  god  of  dragons  and  serpents  in  the  under- 
world. 

The  stories  of  Buddha’s  tooth  and  its  adventures  are 
truly  wonderful.  I will  quote  two  more.  The  first  is 
found  in  “ Indian  Pictures 

“From  the  fourteentli  century  downwards  Kandy,  the  ancient 
capital  of  the  Highland  Smgalese,  has  been  distinguished  as  the 


* Siamese  caU  many  sacred  things  “ ciystals,”  no  matter  what 
the  material. 


BUDDHA’S  CRYSTAL  TOOTH. 


375 


headquarters  of  Buddhism,  finding  its  centre  in  the  temple  of 
the  Dalada,  the  shrine  of  Buddha’s  tooth,  round  which  the 
Buddhist  hierarchy  gather.  This,  with  the  adjoining  palace, 
is  the  most  interesting  building  in  Ceylon.  There  is  an  octagonal 
stone  edifice  of  two  stories,  in  the  upper  part  of  which  is  an 
Oriental  library,  containing  several  valuable  Pali  manuscripts, 
and  the  Buddhist  scriptures  written  on  wood  and  smnptuously 
hound.  A balcony  runs  outside  on  which  the  kings  of  Kandy 
were  wont  in  former  times  to  appear  before  the  people  and  to 
witness  performances  on  the  green  below.  The  relic  of  the  left 
eye-tooth  of  Guatama  Buddha,  here  said  to  be  enshrined,  has  a 
curious  history.  Rescued  from  his  funeral  pile  B.c.  543,  it  was 
preserved  for  eight  centuries  at  Dantapura,  in  South  India, 
and  brought  to  Ceylon  a.d.  310.  The  Malabars  afterward  cap- 
tured it  and  took  it  back  to  India,  but  the  great  Prakrama  re- 
covered it.  The  Portuguese  missionaries  got  possession  of  it  in 
the  sixteenth  century,  carried  it  away  to  Goa,  and  after  refusing 
a large  ransom  offered  for  it  by  the  Singalese,  reduced  it  to  pow- 
der and  destroyed  it  at  Goa  in  the  presence  of  witnesses.  The 
accoimt  of  this  destruction  of  the  tooth  is  most  circumstantial  in 
the  Portuguese  records.  Nevertheless  the  Buddhist  priests  at 
Kandy  produced  another  tooth,  which  they  affirmed  to  be  the 
real  relic,  that  taken  by  the  Portuguese  being  counterfeit;  and 
they  condilCted  this  to  the  shrine  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony. 
This  is  the  relic  now  treasured  with  such  care  and  reverence. 
It  is  probably  not  a human  tooth  at  aU,  being,  as  those  who 
have  seen  it  affiim,  much  too  large  ever  to  have  belonged  to 
man.”  [I  would  suggest  that  it  may  still  be  a Buddha  tooth, 
preserved  from  a remote  time,  when  that  changeable  god  was 
stiU  passing  through  some  of  his  beastly  transmigrations.] 
“When  the  British  got  possession  of  it  in  1815  there  was 
great  excitement,  the  relic  being  regarded  as  a sort  of  national 
palladium.  They  allowed  it,  however,  to  be  restored  to  its 
shrine  amid  great  festivities.  The  sanctuary  in  which  it  reposes 
is  a small  chamber  without  a ray  of  light,  in  which  the  air  is 
stifiing  hot,  and  heavy  with  the  perfume  of  flowers,  situated  in 
the  inmost  recesses  of  the  temple.  The  frames  of  the  doors  of 
this  chamber  are  inlaid  with  carved  ivory,  and  on  a massive 
silver  altar  stands  the  goldeji  shrine,  jewelled  and  hung  round 
with  chains.  In  front  of  the  altar  is  a table  upon  which  wor- 
shippers deposit  theii’  gifts.” 


376 


SIAM. 


The  second  account  is  quite  similar,  and  is  given  in  con- 
nection with  the  visit  of  the  Prince  of  "Wales  to  India ; 

“At  Kandy  tlie  prince  was  vouchsafed  a sight  of  the  ‘ Dalada,’ 
or  sacred  tooth  of  the  Guatama  Buddha.  He  died,  it  is  said, 
some  twenty -five  himdred  yeai*s  ago,  and  the  sacred  incisor  was 
preserved  in  the  capital  of  Kalinga,  where  it  remained  five  hun- 
dred years,  when  it  was  taken  to  Ceylon,  where  it  reposed  for 
more  than  fifteen  hundred  yeare,  when  a prince  from  the  main- 
land came  to  the  island  and  captm-ed  the  venerated  relic.  The 
king  of  Kandy  recaptured  it,  and  for  some  troubled  centuries* 
after  it  had  a varied  fortune,  being  borne  from  one  hiding-place 
to  another. 

“At  last,  in  1560,  the  Portuguese  Dom  Constantine  of  Bra- 
ganza  got  it,  as  he  supposed,  at  the  capture  of  Jaffna,  and  canied 
it  to  Goa.  The  king  of  Pegu  offered  four  hundred  thousand 
cruzadoes  for  its  ransom,  but  the  pious  Archbishop  of  Goa  was 
resolved  upon  the  destruction  of  the  idolatrous  rehc.  However, 
the  Portuguese  chronicler  says  he  placed  poor  Buddha’s  tooth 
‘ in  a mortar,  and  ■with  his  own  hand  reducing  it  to  powder  be- 
fore them  all,  cast  the  pieces  into  a brazier  which  stood  ready 
for  the  purpose,  after  which  the  ashes  and  the  charcoal  together 
were  cast  into  the  river  in  the  sight  of  all  those  crowding  to  the 
vei’andas  and  windows  wliich  looked  upon  the  water.’  But,  if 
the  Singalese  are  to  be  believed,  the  archbishop  had  better  have 
taken  the  money ; for  it  was  not  the  genuine  tooth  after  all,  but 
a sham  one  made  for  the  occasion ; while  the  genuine,  original 
one  was  spirited  away  from  the  captured  city,  and  found  its  way 
to  Kandy. 

“The  ‘Dalada’  is  deposited  in  a bell-shaped,  golden  casket, 
glittering  with  diamonds,  emeralds,  and  pearls.  When  the 
prince  and  some  of  his  suite  were  gathered  in  the  chamber,  a 
priest  brought  the  key  of  the  casket  from  a secret  receptacle. 
The  outer  casket  being  opened,  inside  of  it  was  seen  a second, 
then  a third,  fourth,  and  fifth,  all  of  gold.  Within  the  last, 
Ijdng  upon  a golden  lotus-leaf,  was  the  sacred  tooth  which  no 
mortal  hand  may  touch.  The  eldest  priest,  quivering  -with  im- 
feigned  emotion,  covered  liis  hand  with  a piece  of  silk,  and, 
talcing  up  the  golden  leaf,  held  up  the  sacred  relic  for  the 
prince’s  gaze.  There  was  not  much  to  see,  and  without  faith 
nothing  to  admh*e.  The  ‘Dalada’  is  a piece  of  bone,  or,  as 


BUDDHA'S  CRYSTAL  TOOTH. 


377 


some  say,  of  ivory,  with  a suture  up  the  side.  It  is  nearly  two 
inches  long  and  one  inch  round,  tapering  toward  the  end,  which 
is  roimded.  If  the  article  ever  was  in  Buddha’s  mouth,  and  if 
he  had  a complete  set  to  match,  he  must  have  possessed  a 
wonderful  jaw  and  a remarkable  stomach ; for  it  is  easy  to  see 
that  the  tooth  is  not  a human  molar  or  incisor.  It  has  been 
suggested  that  it  was  modelled  after  the  canine  teeth  which 
are  seen  in  some  images  of  Vishnu  and  Kali;  but  it  by  no 
means  resembles  a true  canine.” 


CHAPTER  XLII. 


NEW  SIAM. 

Thebe  have  as  yet  been  no  such  marvellous  revolutions 
in  Siam,  affecting  the  whole  kingdom  in  its  private,  public, 
and  pohtical  life  and  interests,  as  have  astonished  and 
electrified  the  world  in  the  history  of  the  Japan  of  to-day. 
But  the  Siam  of  1885  is  very  different  from  the  Siam  of 
even  fifty  years  ago.  Then  a selfish  and  jealous  policy 
controlled  the  first  and  second  kings,  and  was  upheld  by 
the  sanction  and  advice  of  the  nobles.  It  was  in  those  old 
days  that  Chinese  junks  were  sunk  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  and  chains  stretched  from  shore  to  shore  to  prevent 
the  foreign  ships  from  steaming  up  to  Bangkok.  The 
Siamese  were  content  with  their  condition,  and  wished  no 
outside  element  to  he  introduced  that  would  surely  disturb 
the  Buddhist  Xirvana-like  lethargy  that  had  lulled  them  in 
its  senseless  intoxication  for  centuries. 

Protestant  missionaries  had  but  just  found  their  way  to 
these  shores,  and  were  busy  learning  the  language  and  pre- 
paring books  for  the  people.  They  were  casting  up  a high- 
way for  the  fulfilment  of  God’s  eternal  purposes.  After 
these  pioneers  of  ciifilization,  came  the  American  and  Eng- 
lish ambassadors  to  make  treaties  with  Siam.  Since  then 
many  changes  have  taken  place,  and  many  improvements 
adopted,  until  now  the  traveller  visiting  Bangkok  is  sur- 
prised at  the  various  outward  tokens  of  Western  civiKza- 
tion.  Xow  upon  the  bank  of  the  river  may  be  seen  the 
custom-house,  where  dues  are  collected  from  all  the  foreign 
shipping  in  port,  and  the  flags  of  almost  every  land  are 
floating  from  the  mastheads ; there,  too,  is  the  royal  mint 
(378) 


NEW  SIAM. 


379 


•where  all  the  money  of  the  realm  is  coined ; the  museum 
where  are  gathered  many  rare  and  curious  things  from  their 
own  and  other  countries ; the  telegraph  and  telephone  of- 
fices ; the  barracks  full  of  soldiers  in  uniform  ; the  king’s 
pleasure  yacht,  built  in  England  and  elegantly  furnished ; 
the  post-ofiice  with  its  letter-boxes  in  all  parts  of  the  city ; 
and  over  the  triple  walls  of  the  palace  grounds  may  be  seen, 
glittering  in  the  sunshine,  the  triple  towers  of  the  king’s 
new  palace,  designed  and  executed  by  foreign  architects 
and  filled  wth  beautiful  things  from  London  and  Paris, 
and  illuminated  -with  electric  lights. 

A few  months  before  I left  Siam  one  of  our  native  as- 
sistants was  sent  down  the  coast  to  purchase  a sea  boat. 
He  was  providentially  detained,  but  at  every  province  and 
island  where  the  boat  stopped  in  which  he  had  taken  pas- 
sage, he  told  the  people  of  Christ ; and  his  words  had  such 
effect  that  when  he  retmmed,  having  made  his  purchase, 
there  came  with  him  a fieet  of  boats,  carrying  nearly  three 
hundred  men  and  women,  many  of  them  inquii’ers.  And 
so  they  voyaged  up  the  coast,  day  after  day  and  week  after 
week,  seeking  the  one  missionary  who  could  tell  them  more 
perfectly  of  the  way  of  life.  They  anchored  in  the  bay, 
and  a messenger  was  sent  for  klr.  Dunlap,  who  hastened 
down  the  river  on  his  glad  errand. 

Our  chapels  in  Petchaburee  are  growing  too  small,  and 
there  are  additions  to  the  churches  at  every  communion. 
They  are  increasing  their  contributions  regularly.  It  was 
proposed  to  build  a new  chapel  at  one  of  the  stations,  and 
nearly  half  the  required  sum  was  given  the  first  day  funds 
were  asked  for.  At  Bangkaboon  they  are  enlarging  the 
chapel,  and  the  people  nobly  say,  “We  will  defray  the  ex- 
pense as  a gift  to  the  Master.”  Mr.  Dunlap  -wi-ites : “ Please 
do  not  ask  for  money  to  build  chapels  for  this  station  ; bet- 
ter let  the  native  Christians  do  it  themselves.”  It  wiU  be 
their  home  mission  work  and  church  extension. 


380 


SIAM. 


The  very  latest  news  is  tliat  Mr.  D.  has  just  returned 
from  an  extended  tour  of  three  hundred  miles  down  the  west 
coast  from  Petchaburee.  He  travelled  in  a native  boat, 
and  visited  six  provinces.  He  reached  all  the  governors 
and  officers,  and  was  kindly  received  everywhere.  He  car- 
ried with  him  a letter  from  the  Prime  Minister  of  Siam, 
commanding  his  subordinates  to  aid  the  travellers  in  pro- 
curing food  and  suitable  lodgings,  and  forbidding  them  to 
place  any  obstacle  in  their  way.  Surely  such  aid  from  high 
officials,  and  so  great  liberty,  is  wonderful  when  we  recall 
former  days  of  opposition  and  hindrance.  They  were  spe- 
cially well  treated  in  the  Cheya  province,  which  has  a pop- 
ulation of  over  47,000,  and  a governor  who  is  an  enterpris- 
ing man,  and  earnest  as  to  the  welfare  of  his  people.  Mr. 
Dunlap  says : 

“ He  received  us  kindly,  placed  a well-fumished  house  at  our 
disposal,  visited  us  frequently,  and  urged  us  to  come  and  settle 
in  his  province — offering,  as  an  inducement,  lumber  and  lot  for 
a house.  I told  him  that  I had  Bible  pictures  to  show,  by  means 
of  a sciopticon.  He  at  once  offered  me  a place  in  his  park,  and 
sent  his  men  out  to  announce  it  in  the  surroimding  villages. 
That  night  we  had  about  a thousand  people,  to  whom  I preached 
the  Gospel  for  more  than  an  hour.  The  governor  and  his  family 
being  present,  the  people  were  orderly  and  listened  attentively. 

“ The  next  day  I noticed  a court  in  session  at  the  governors 
palace,  and  asked  his  permission  to  preach  in  the  couid-house, 
which  was  granted.  The  court  adjourned  to  hear  the  sermon ; 
and  when  I left,  the  judges  and  scribes  were  reading  the  Gos- 
pels aloud  to  the  crowd  assembled.  We  also  preached  in  several 
villages,  and,  at  the  governor’s  request,  to  the  prisoners.  Is  not 
this  a wide-open  door  ? 

“Our  next  stop  was  in  the  Langsooen  province,  the  popula- 
tion of  which  is  20,000.  Tliis  is  the  Florida  of  Siam  as  far  as 
fruits  are  concerned.  It  also  produces  large  quantities  of  tin. 
We  preached  for  two  days  in  the  capital  and  ten  days  in  the 
villages.  Several  expressed  deep  interest,  and  some  requested 
baptism,  among  them  two  Government  officials.  One  man,  who 
had  previously  received  instruction,  we  foxmd  teaching  others 


NEW  SIAM. 


381 


in  tills  province ; and,  through  his  influence,  four  wish  to  adopt 
our  religion. 

“We  aimed  to  reach  the  Lakon  province  with  its  230,000,  as 
yet  un visited  by  the  missionary,  but  unfavorable  winds  and 
high  sea  prevented.  We  left  our  native  assistant  here,  in  his 
own  province,  to  teach  the  f)eople,  and  then  set  sail  for  home. 
We  were  forty-two  days  making  the  three  hundred  miles. 

“Now  is  the  time  to  make  consecrated  effort  for  the  Master 
in  this  land.  There  is  not  an  obstacle  in  the  way.  In  fact, 
we  beheve  the  way  is  providentially  open  to  us,  and  that  we 
should  go  forward.” 

No  mission-field  stands  in  greater  need  of  workers  than 
Siam.  Oh,  that  I could  persuade  scores  to  enlist  in  this 
holy  crusade ! Life  in  that  land  is  not  an  exile,  nor  a 
dreary,  lonely  burying  of  one’s  self  away  from  the  rest  of  the 
world.  We  have  daily  telegrams  published  in  an  English 
paper  at  the  capital,  and  regular  fortnightly  mails.  The 
sturdy  pioneer  workers  of  fifty  years  ago  have  prepared 
the  way  for  us,  so  that  now  we  find  pleasant  homes  and 
kind  friends  awaiting  us,  and  a people  whom  God  is  mak- 
ing ready  for  His  salvation.  Although  “ length  of  days  ” 
is  not  usually  expected  in  foreign  lands,  yet  even  that  may 
be  vouchsafed  us.  But  we  must  not  count  our  lives  dear 
unto  ourselves.  “ Duties  are  ours ; events  are  God’s.” 
When  England  would  send  forth  her  troops  to  India  or 
Egypt,  the  best,  the  bravest  of  her  sons  are  given  up,  and 
thousands  go  voluntarily  to  be  shot  or  butchered  the  mo- 
ment they  come  in  confiict  with  Arab  rifle  or  scimetar.  They 
fall  by  hundreds,  and  their  bodies  fill  the  shallow  trenches 
hastily  scooped  in  the  desert  sands.  When  I passed  through 
Egypt  on  my  way  home,  I saw  the  graves  of  many  a brave 
Highlander ; and  who  can  tell  how  many  more  of  Britain’s 
blue-eyed  sons  have  gone  to  certain  death  in  the  dark  Sou- 
dan ? But  how  many  missionary  graves  are  there  in  Egypt  ? 
I verily  believe  you  could  count  them  on  your  ten  fingers. 
Yet  what  if  there  were  scores?  Shall  the  armies  of  the 


382 


SIAM. 


Queen  of  England  excel  the  soldiers  of  God  in  their  con- 
quest of  the  world  ? Shall  they  be  more  brave  and  willing 
and  valiant  than  we,  when  God  is  also  otu’  King  and  our 
Father,  and  these  perishing  ones  are  our  brothers  and  sis- 
ters? 

In  all  this  wide  kingdom  of  Siam,  with  her  open  ports, 
her  doors  ajar,  inviting  missionary  effort  from  all  Christian 
lands,  and  her  ten  millions  of  Buddliist  heathen,  there  are 
but  a handful  of  American  workers,  including  but  three 
ordained  ministers  who  can  teach  and  preach  in  the  native 
tongue.  Think  of  it ! Three  men  for  ten  millions — more 
than  three  millions  for  each  I And  America  is  full  of 
Christian  men  and  women  who  profess  to  have  given  them- 
selves to  the  Lord,  and  to  have  consecrated  all  they  have  to 
His  service. 

Already  the  day  is  breaking  in  this  dark  land,  morning 
dawns,  and  it  is  the  entrance  of  God’s  Word  that  giveth 
the  light.  The  tree  of  knowledge  has  also  taken  root, 
and  her  branches  will  extend  yet  farther  and  wider,  hung 
with  rich  and  tempting  fruits  for  all  who  will  but  pluck  and 
eat.  There  is  an  earnest  desire  on  the  part  of  Young  Siam 
to  learn  English,  and  in  the  city  of  Bangkok  may  be  found 
quite  a number  of  Government  schools  established  by  the 
king  or  his  princes,  and  supported  from  the  royal  treasury.* 
Although  particular  care  is  taken  not  to  have  religion  taught, 
it  is  impossible  to  separate  Christianity  from  the  English 
language,  and  the  very  school-books  fiunished  by  the  king 
are  full  of  its  sublime  teachings. 

A short  time  ago  a foreigner  went  to  \dsit  the  royal 
schools  near  the  palace,  where  some  of  the  highest  princes 


* The  Queen  has  also  opened  two  schools.  One  of  them  is  in- 
dustrial, and  the  pupOs  are  taught  to  make  supplies  of  clothing 
for  the  soldiere  in  the  royal  army,  thus  economizing  what  was 
formerly  paid  to  English  clothiers. 


NEW  SIAM. 


383 


and  nobles  ai’e  learning  English,  and  as  he  crossed  the 
threshold  of  the  school-room  door  he  heard  the  boys  read- 
ing of  “ the  Good  Shepherd  who  careth  for  the  sheep.”  I 
have  heard  that  the  old  king,  Maha  Mongkut,  told  Mrs. 
Leonowens,  when  he  employed  her  as  governess  for  the 
royal  children,  that  she  was  not  to  teach  religion ; and 
then,  in  keeping  with  his  erratic,  contradictory  nature,  he 
ordered  that  as  a first  lesson  in  English  she  teach  them  to 
sing  “ God  save  the  King ! ” 

The  mother  of  one  of  the  highest  nobles  in  the  kingdom 
came  to  Petchaburee  on  a visit,  and  she  invited  us  to 
assemble  our  schools  and  let  them  sing  before  her.  They 
were  very  kindly  received.  Some  of  the  children  repeated 
the  Lord’s  Prayer,  at  the  request  of  a Buddhist  priest,  who 
sat  near  by  and  saw  and  heard  all  that  was  going  on.  The 
noble  lady  said  to  us  during  the  call,  and  in  the  presence  of 
all  her  people  : “ Your  religion  is  sure  to  prevail  in  Siam.” 
And  there  comes  to  us  the  good  news  that  one  of  the  most 
intelligent  of  the  Laos  princes  has  made  the  same  acknowl- 
edgment concerning  his  own  country. 

To  those  of  us  who  believe,  how  comforting  are  these 
verifications  of  God’s  grand  old  promises : “ The  knowledge 
of  the  Lord  shall  cover  the  earth  as  the  waters  cover  the 
sea.”  “ All  the  ends  of  the  earth  shall  see  the  salvation  of 
our  God.  To  Him  every  knee  shall  bow,  every  tongue 
confess.”  It  is  true  there  are  only  about  eight  millions  of 
Siamese,  and,  compared  \vith  some  other  nations,  that  is  a 
very  small  number ; but  eight  million  saved  souls  would 
make  a glorious  setting  for  one  of  Christ’s  many  crowns.  If 
any  one  should  ask,  “ "VYhat  are  your  hopes  for  the  salvation 
of  Siam?”  I would  reply  with  Dr.  Judson,  of  Burmah, 
“ They  are  bright  as  the  promises  of  God.”  “ To-day 
stands  on  the  shoulders  of  yesterday.  It  sees  farther  and 
wider.”  "We  will  take  the  wheel,  the  old  symbol  of 
Buddhism,  for  our  symbol  to  denote  the  progress  that 


is  rolling  over  Asia  in  tliis  nineteentli  century.  See  how 
it  moves  forward.  It  never  can  tnrn  back ! Confucius, 
Mahomet,  Buddha,  all  the  founders  of  the  most  wide- 
spread religions  in  the  world  to-day,  were  sons  of  Asia ; 
and  now  before  all  these  hoary  systems  stands  the  great 
Asiatic  Christ ; from  everlasting  to  everlasting  He  is  God, 
the  Alpha  and  the  Omega  of  the  eternal  past,  the  eternal 
future ; and  all  in  heaven  and  earth  and  hell  will  one  day 
bow  before  Him,  and  with  reverence  and  awe  acknowledge 
His  supremacy  and  almighty  power. 


THE  END. 


APPENDIX 


I. 

SIAMESE  FACTS  AND  FANCIES. 

I. 

In  the  Buddhist  millennium  in  Siam  the  water  will  flow  up  the 
river  on  one  side  and  down  on  the  other,  so  these  poor  indolent 
creatures  will  never  have  to  row  against  the  current,  but  by 
crossing  from  side  to  side  can  float  idly  to  their  destination, 
however  remote.  They  will  have  to  do  no  work  either,  but  wfll 
live  happy  and  content,  as  the  birds  do. 

II. 

Thunder — “ crying  of  the  sky  ” — is  caused  by  a horrible  giant 
who  lives  in  the  air ; when  he  growls  at  his  wife  he  causes  the 
earth  to  tremble;  but  not  always  content  with  grumbling,  he 
sometimes  follows  her,  hatchet  in  hand,  and,  if  in  the  paroxysm 
of  his  fury  he  throws  the  hatchet,  it  produces  a thunderbolt. 

III. 

The  World.  The  earth  is  flat,  and  it  takes  two  hundi’ed  years 
to  sail  round  it,  at  the  rate  of  two  hundi-ed  miles  a day.  Mt. 
Mah  Mene,  or  Mt.  Meru,  is  840,000  miles  high,  and  heaven  is  at 
the  top.  It  takes  a soul  seven  days  to  ascend  to  heaven,  being 
led  along  the  way  by  Arahang,  the  god-like  guide ; and  for  this 
belief  they  ciy  his  name  into  the  ears  of  the  dymg  till  they  are 
deaf  to  all  earthly  sounds.  In  the  midst  of  heaven  is  a great 
basin,  where  the  angels  bathe.  When  there  are  too  many  bath- 

(385) 


386 


APPENDIX. 


ing  at  once,  they  sjilash  the  water  over  and  cause  rain.  An- 
other theory  is,  that  a great  fish  one  thousand  miles  long  shakes 
its  tail  in  the  sea. 

IV. 

Lightning.  A woman  shakes  a muTor  in  the  air  in  mockery, 
or  the  angels  strike  fire  with  bricks.  They  believe  in  mermaids 
and  water-sprites,  and  fairies,  genii,  and  spirits  of  earth  and  air. 
When  the  wind  sighs  or  rustles  thi'ough  the  tree-tops,  the  moth- 
ers say  they  hear  the  voices  of  their  dead  babies  crjung  in  their 
hammocks.  And  falling  star’s  are  the  spii’its  pitching  toi’ches. 

Rainbow.  Glory  drinking  water. 

V. 

Tides.  A monster  crab  going  in  and  coming  out  of  his  hole 
causes  the  waters  to  rise  and  fall. 

The  words  crocodile  and  tiger  are  never  spoken  by  the  natives 
when  near  their  haunts.  They  fear  they  will  hear. 

VI. 

Cats.  Many  curious  and  beautiful  specimens  of  this  animal 
exist  in  Siam.  Among  the  most  curious  are  the  tailless  cats 
with  blue  eyes. 

VII. 

Pottery.  I have  never  seen  nor  heard  of  a beautiful  pie.ce  of 
Siamese  manufactui’e.  They  seem  utterly  devoid  of  taste  and 
skill  such  as  characterize  their  northern  neighhore  in  China, 
Japan,  and  Corea.  The  native  workmen  confine  themselves  to 
the  manufacture  of  the  rudest  and  simplest  articles — water-jai-s 
and  bottles,  rice  and  cun-y-pots,  fire-places,  and  basins  and  grid- 
dles for  cooking  fish,  rough,  unshapely,  and  unglazed ; tiles  for 
oi-dinary  dwellings — the  handsome  green  and  golden  tiles  for 
temple  and  palace  roofs  are  all  Chinese.  A few  little  cups  with 
lids,  for  temple  offerings,  for  pomades  and  salves,  ai*e  made  in 
Bangkok.  They  are  rudely  painted,  and  glazed  on  the  outside 
only,  and  are  sold  for  one  or  two  cents  apiece. 


APPENDIX. 


387 


vni. 

Macaroni  and  Vermicelli.  These  articles  of  diet  are  manu- 
factured in  Chinese  style  all  over  the  kingdom.  They  are  made 
of  rice  flour,  the  lump  of  dough  heing  squeezed,  or,  rather, 
pressed  through  a colander  into  a kettle  of  boiling  ■water. 
When  properly  set  and  cooked,  they  are  dipped  out  with  baskets 
and  spread  on  huge  bamboo  trays  to  dry  in  the  sun.  They  are 
not  hollow  like  the  Italian  macaroni,  neither  ai’e  they  so  palat- 
able to  the  Western  appetite.  This  rice  vermicelli,  however, 
is  very  delicate,  and  makes  a fine  addition  to  the  soup.  They 
are  tied  in  bunches  and  stacked  up  in  the  native  boats  or  shops 
like  bundles  of  straw  or  dried  herbs. 

IX. 

Chantaboon  (nutmeg  countiy)  is  a stronghold  of  the  French 
Jesuits,  who  have  for  decades  been  laboring  among  the  Chinese 
who  have  settled  in  large  numbers  in  that  part  of  Siam.  They 
have  established  churches,  courts,  and  prisons,  and  would  hke 
to  govern  the  pro"vince  in  the  interests  of  Catholicism  and 
French  Asia,  and  doubtless  receive  much  sympathy,  and,  per- 
haps, help,  from  the  Grovemment  representatives  at  Saigon  and 
other  French  ports  of  Cochin  China.  Chantaboon  borders  on 
Cochin  China,  and  is  veiy  fertile  and  populous,  and  furnishes 
lumber,  tin,  coal,  iron,  gold,  and  precious  jewels,  and  bemg  re- 
garded as  an  important  outpost  of  the  kingdom,  the  Siamese 
have  built  costly  and  ‘extensive  fortifications  there.  It  has  an 
excellent  harbor  noted  for  its  fine  scenery,  especially  the  promi- 
nent “ Lion  Rock,”  which  is  seen  from  the  deck  of  every  ship 
which  enters  the  wide  and  beautiful  river.  The  extensive  teak 
forests  covering  the  neighboring  mountains,  furnish  timber  for 
ships  that  are  here  built  after  European  models  in  the  Govern- 
ment shipyards. 

X. 

Native  Doctors.  There  is  a college  of  native  physicians  in 
Bangkok  who  are  trained  for  service  in  the  royal  palaces,  but 


388 


APPENDIX. 


their  practice  is  far  from  praiseworthy,  and  is  full  of  ignorance 
and  superstition.  Many  of  the  Buddhist  priests  are  also  phy- 
sicians. The  people  like  to  have  it  so,  beheving  their  merit  will 
help  cure  the  sick.  We  often  find  recipes  for  medicines  posted 
up  in  the  public  rest-houses.  The  drug-stores  in  the  native  ha- 
zaai-s  present  a fine  army  of  dried  roots  and  leaves,  besides  shells 
and  buffalo  horns,  old  bones,  tiger  teeth  and  eyes,  lizard  and 
alligator  gall,  and  many  other  pretended  medicines  as  useless 
and  even  more  disgusting.  The  blind  and  ignorant  heathen 
doctor,  conscious  of  a higher  power  which  controls  disease  and 
the  issues  of  life  and  death,  places  his  medicine  in  the  hand  of 
his  god  and  hopes  that  the  merits  of  the  merciful  Buddha  ^vill 
impart  efficacy  to  the  drug  or  lotion.  The  sick  fike  to  boast  of 
the  quantities  of  medicine  they  have  taken,  and  it  is  not  uncom- 
mon for  them  to  swallow  seveml  gallons  during  an  illness — 
mostly  weak  teas  and  solutions.  They  anoint  with  holy  oil, 
and  sprinkle  with  consecrated  water,  spurting  it  from  the  mouth 
in  a fine  spray  over  the  patient,  as  a Chinese  laundi-yman  sprm- 
kles  clothes ; and  they  knead  the  body  when  the  joints  ai’e  stiff 
and  sore. 

A medical  missionary  once  called  on  a patient ; he  was  an  old 
convert,  and  near  his  end.  He  told  Dr.  S.  he  had  gj-eat  faith 
in  his  prayers,  but  he  would  not  take  his  medicine.  When  the 
doctor  left,  the  old  man’s  sons  were  searching  all  thi’ough  the 
town  for  buffalo  bones,  and  even  sumujoned  a native  doctor 
from  the  city,  who,  with  owl-eyed  Avisdom,  pronounced  the  case 
a violent  attack  of  colic. 

Women  care  for  each  other  in  times  of  need,  and  some 
have  gained  quite  a reputation  in  attending  at  the  birth  of 
childi’en,.but  some  of  their  customs  are  almost  too  horrible 
to  relate  on  this  page,  and  it  is  a great  wonder  that  mothers 
and  their  little  ones  survive  the  treatment.  The  child  is  not 
permitted  to  have  its  natural  nourishment,  but  is  stuffed 
with  rice  and  bananas,  and  mu’sed  by  the  other  mothers  of 


APPENDIX. 


389 


the  village.  Thousands  of  these  little  creatures  die  on  the  eighth 
day  after  birth  of  lockjaw,  and  hundreds  of  delicate  mothers 
cannot  endure  the  fiery  ordeal  of  the  peculiar  treatment,  and  so 
perish  also.  Many  who  thus  die  are  denied  the  right  of  crema- 
tion, as  being  considered  unworthy  the  sacred  privilege.  As 
yet  no  ladies  have  ever  been  sent  to  Siam  as  medical  mi.ssiona- 
ries,  but  here  is  a wide  field  for  the  exercise  of  their  skill,  tact, 
and  patience. 


II. 

A WONDEEFUL  MONUMENT  OF  THE  PAST— PEA 
PEATOM  CHEDEE.* 

The  history  of  the  Pra  Pratom  Chedee  is  involved  in  much 
darkness.  It  is  reported  that  a finger-ring  had  been  found  ui 
digging  there,  which  bears  indubitable  marks  of  having  been 
made  more  than  eight  hundred  years  ago.  There  appears  to  be 
no  written  document  extant  which  throws  any  light  on  the 
questions  when  and  why  that  pagoda  was  built.  But  there  are 
various  traditions.  One  of  the  most  interesting  is  that  it  was 
once  the  seat  of  a raj all’s  rule  called  Payah  Pan;  that  all  the 
plains  of  Siam  were  then  divided  among  petty  chiefs  who  were 
frequently  at  war  with  one  another ; that  on  a certain  occasion 
a collision  took  place  between  Payah  Pan  and  his  son  Payah 
Kong,  when,  being  seated  on  elephants,  they  fought  with  each 
other,  and  that  the  son  by  one  stroke  of  his  lance  severed  the 
head  of  his  father  from  his  body,  and  hence  won  the  day.  But 
he,  not  long  afterward,  became  gi-eatly  distressed  at  the  thought 
that  he  had  killed  his  father.  Having  suffered  a long  time  the 
bitterest  remorse,  a Buddhist  oracle  at  length  extended  to  him 
the  comforting  thought  that  he  might  do  much  to  atone  for  his 
sin  of  patricide,  by  erecting  on  the  spot  where  his  father  fell, 

* For  the  contents  of  this  chapter  I am  indebted  to  Dr.  Bradley’s  “ Bang- 
kok Calendar  ” of  1871. 


390 


APPENDIX. 


and  where  Buddha  once  slept,  a pagoda  reaching  above  the 
highest  flight  of  doves,  and  enshrining  in  it  a hit  of  the  most 
sacred  i-elics  of  Buddlia.  With  this  Pajah  Kong  was  delighted, 
and  in  obedience  to  the  oracle  began  to  build  the  pagoda,  and 
gave  to  it  all  liis  great  wealth  and  after-life. 

About  1829,  when  the  late  Sui^reme  King  was  chief  priest  at 
Temple  Saman-rie  in  Bangkok,  he  caused  an  image  of  Buddha 
to  be  cast  for  his  own  personal  beneflt,  and  about  the  same  time 
caused  a small  portable  pagoda  to  be  removed  from  the  old  city, 
and  had  a new  layer  of  silver  cast  about  it.  The  next  day 
season  he,  with  a great  company  of  minor  priests,  made  a pil- 
ga'image  to  the  ancient  pagoda  of  Pra  Pratom.  One  evening  he 
went  up  to  the  sacred  pile  and  worshipped  in  the  holy  place, 
when  he  is  said  to  have  offered  the  foUo%vhig  prayer  in  the  Pali 
language : 

“ I have  great  reverence  for  this  pagoda,  and  consider  it  to  be 
the  most  ancient  monument  of  Buddha  in  all  Siam,  which  is 
proven  to  be  a fact  from  the  form  and  style  of  it,  there  being 
none  like  it  in  modem  times,  so  that  the  pi*esent  generation  of 
men  hai'dly  recognize  it  to  be  a pagoda.  And  it  would  appear 
that  the  founder  of  it  did  indeed  enshrine  in  it  that  which 
makes  it  woi’thy  of  being  a place  to  be  held  in  the  highest  I’ever- 
ence,  and  that  hence  he  expended  upon  it  a lai'ge  amount  of 
property,  making  it  so  large  and  fii'm  that  it  has  successfully 
resisted  the  wear  and  tear  of  many  ages.  And  now,  if  there  be 
iix  truth  any  saci’ed  relics  of  Buddha  anywhei’e  in  this  woi'ld,  I 
think  there  must  be  portions  of  them  enshrined  somewhere 
within  this  saci’ed  structure ; and  if  it  he  so,  I beg  that  the  angel 
in  charge  will  be  pleased  to  divide  omto  me  about  two  pieces  of 
the  same,  as  I desire  to  enshrine  one  of  them  in  the  idol  and  the 
other  in  the  pagoda  wliich  I have  made,  'that  I may  have  them 
near  me  in  the  great  city  to  woi’ship,  and  before  which  to  pi’e- 
sent  continual  offei’ings,  as  would  be  most  woi’thy.  And  this  I 
desire  because  this  Pra  Pratom  Chedee  is  now  far  off  in  the 


APPENDIX. 


391 


■wilderness,  and  not  in  a suitable  place  for  the  people  generally 
to  resort  to  worship.  Hence,  I beg  that  the  guardian  angel  will 
be  pleased  to  distribute  unto  me  of  the  sacred  relics  about  two 
pieces.” 

Having  offered  this  prayer,  he  then  sent  one  of  his  personal 
attendants  to  take  a precious  calipot,  borne  on  a salver,  and  place 
it  in  a niche  of  the  pagoda  on  the  east  side.  In  the  afternoon  of 
that  day,  as  the  Chief  Priest  was  about  to  descend  from  the 
place  of  worship,  he  sent  a servant  to  hivite  the  calipot  to 
return,  and  behold  there  had  been  nothing  deposited  in  it  by 
the  angel.  A month  or  more  after  this,  the  Chief  Priest  ha-ving 
returned  to  his  temple  in  Bangkok,  the  following  event  is  said 
to  have  tx-anspired  at  Temple  Maha-Taht  (Temple  of  the  Holy 
Bones),  where  the  king  graduated  in  his  youth.  There  was  a 
very  precious  image  of  Buddha  in  the  temple,  one  of  great 
antiquity.  On  a certain  night  about  eleven  o’clock  a company 
of  priests  went  in  and  worshipped  in  the  holy  place.  When 
they  were  about  half  through  their  devotions,  they  beheld  some- 
thing like  smoke  of  a reddish  color  ascending  from  the  idol,  and 
which  had  a pleasant  fragrance  like  burning  incense.  The 
smoke  mcreased  until  the  idol  seemed  to  be  of  a red  complexion 
like  betel.  Tlie  priests  were  all  qmte  startled  at  the  sight,  and 
rose  up  to  examine  the  phenomenon,  thinking  that  it  might  be 
a fire  which  had  caught  there.  But  they  saw  nothing  except 
the  reddish  smoke,  and  returning  to  their  devotions,  finished 
their  rehearsals.  They  then  proceeded  to  examine  more  nar- 
rowly mto  the  cause  of  Hhe  smoke,  expecting  to  find  that  it  had 
arisen  from  some  fire  without  the  temple.  But  they  found 
nothing  to  solve  the  mystery.  Early  next  morning  they  re- 
ported this  phenomenon  to  the  Chief  Priest  at  Wat  Samau-rie. 
He  arose  and  went  at  once  to  Temple  Maha-Taht  to  examine 
hxto  the  wonder.  In  pursuing  his  investigations  he  found  in 
the  urn  employed  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  the  sacred  relics 
two  more  pieces  than  there  had  been  befoi’e.  When  he  asked 


392 


APPENDIX. 


the  priests  of  the  temple  if  they  had  ever  before  noticed  them, 
their  reply  was  that  they  had  not.  He  then  inquired  of  the 
keeper  of  the  doors  if  he  knew  of  any  one  placmg  them  there. 
His  reply  was  that  he  did  not.  He  then  summoned  a meeting 
of  many  persons  to  witness  the  two  saci*ed  relics.  They  were 
all  imanimoiis  in  the  opinion  that  they  could  not  have  heen  put 
there  hy  human  hands,  and  that  they  must  have  come  there 
themselves. 

The  two  new  relics  were  different  from  any  that  are  seen  in 
modem  times,  being  each  about  the  size  of  a mustard-seed,  of  a 
whitish  color,  like  the  flowers  of  the  peekoon.  They  had  each 
two  or  three  white  dots  in  a straight  line.  Prince  Sopon  was 
the  first  to  discover  this  peculiarity.  These  two  relics  are  now 
enshrined  in  a pagoda  of  precious  stone,  within  the  Prarataixa 
Sotsa-daram. 

The  foregoing  account  of  the  wonderful  relics  is  a translation 
from  the  Siamese.  A legitimate  inference  to  the  priest  and  to 
all  his  coimcillors  was  that  the  two  relics  having  been  sought 
for  at  Pra  Pratom  and  expected  from  thence,  were  by  superhu- 
man power  brought  to  Temple  Maha-Taht  and  given  as  de- 
scribed. Hence  the  great  respect  now  paid  to  that  pagoda. 

Dr.  Bradley  visited  Pra  Pratom  twice — once  in  1865,  and 
again  five  years  later.  It  is  about  sixty  miles  from  Bangkok, 
near  Nakon-Chisee,  a small  village  on  the  Tacheen  River,  but 
the  seat  of  government  for  one  of  the  most  important  provinces 
of  Siam.  Tlie  wonderful  shrine  is  some  seven  and  a half  miles 
nearly  due  west  from  this  Tillage.  It  is  reached  by  a straight 
canal  through  a level  prairie,  vith  but  here  and  there  a small 
forest  tree.  The  late  king  had  this  canal  excavated,  doubtless 
for  the  primary  object  of  making  a convenient  way  of  access  to 
a place  which  is  destined  to  become  a very  popular  shrine  for 
the  woi-ship  of  Buddha,  and  to  transmit  the  name  of  Malia 
Mongkut  to  future  generations  as  a sovereign  of  great  wealth, 
and  of  sincere  devotion  to  Buddhism,  such  as  he  taught  when  a 


APPENDIX. 


393 


priest  at  the  head  of  a reformed  Buddhist  school,  and  such  as  he 
upheld  with  the  right  hand  of  his  kingly  power,  in  faithfulness 
to  the  oath  he  took  when  he  ascended  the  throne. 

The  original  name  of  the  pagoda  was  Pra  Pratom  Chedee, 
literally  a pagoda  of  a god  that  slept.  But  for  reasons  best 
kno%vn  to  such  as  have  authority  to  change  names,  a slight 
alteration  has  been  made  in  the  writing  of  that  original  name, 
so  that  it  can  now  be  literally  rendered,  a pagoda  of  the  god  of 
the  beginning,  or  the  most  ancient  pagoda.  The  change  is 
only  in  the  letter  o in  the  word  Pratom,  which  formerly  had 
no  rising  inflection,  but  now  has,  and  when  Eomanized  is  writ- 
ten Prat’om. 

According  to  the  original  name  it  is  commonly  understood 
that  Guatama,  or  the  Buddha,  when  journeying  in  Siam,  on  a 
certain  time,”  slept  at  that  place,  which  idea  harmonizes  well 
with  other  traditions  concerning  him  ; as,  for  example,  that  he 
found  shelter  at  one  time  under  a great  shelving  rock,  some 
fifteen  miles  east  of  Prabaht,  during  a tremendous  storm,  and 
that  consequently  from  that  time  to  this  the  ceiling  and  siding 
made  by  the  rock  becomes  brilliant  to  the  view  of  every  devoted 
follower  of  Buddha  when  looking  at  it,  and  is  therefore  called 
Prd-Chi;  that  he  put  one  of  his  feet  in  a small  mount  at  Pra- 
baht, and  left  his  footprint  in  a rock,  and  hence  the  name  ; 
and  that  he  reclined  on  a rock  at  the  top  of  a small  mount 
twenty  or  thirty  miles  from  Pratom,  and  therefore  that  place  is 
called  Pra-taan — the  lounge  of  a god. 

In  1865  Pra  Pratom  Chedee  stood  in  the  midst  of  a vast  wil- 
derness of  jungle  grass,  bushes,  and  scraggy  bamboos,  with 
scarcely  a hill  in  all  the  field  of  vision,  or  a large  tree,  and 
nothing  to  hound  the  outlook  hut  the  horizon.  The  upper  half 
of  it  had  not  then  been  enclosed  by  the  new  brick  work,  and 
was  much  like  the  tops  of  some  of  the  Bangkok  pagodas.  It 
would  appear  that  the  original  size  of  its  base  was  not  a quarter 
what  it  is  now.  The  artificial  mount  on  which  it  stands  is  a 


394 


APPENDIX. 


regular  circle,  not  far  from  4,000  feet  in  circumference,  and 
about  15  feet  high.  The  new  woz’k  had  been  carried  up  200  feet, 
and  at  that  height  was  over  300  feet  in  cu’cumference.  Radiat- 
ing from  the  old  spire  were  heavy  four-inch  planks  laid  flat- 
wise, upon  which  the  work  was  to  be  built  up.  Several  such 
strata  had  ah’eady  been  placed  in  the  pile  below  to  prevent  the 
masonry  from  splitting.  Such  an  accident  had  occurred  foiu*  or 
five  years  previous,  while  many  men  were  at  work  on  the  top  ; 
the  mass  of  brick  and  mortar  suddenly  parted  from  the  old 
spu'e  on  all  sides,  and  came  doAvn  with  a great  crash,  and — 
marvellous  to  relate — so  gi'eat  was  the  merit  of  working  upon 
it,  that,  report  says,  only  one  of  the  men  was  killed  by  the  acci- 
dent. The  confused  pile  made  by  this  avalanche  was  at  length 
levelled,  and  now  forms  the  mound  already  spoken  of. 

Ascending  to  where  the  workmen  were  busy  with  trowel  and 
mortar,  a widely  extended  view  could  be  obtained,  revealing  a 
vast  plain  covered  with  the  usual  jungle  productions  of  Siam. 
Here  and  there  could  be  seen  small  plats  of  cultivated  land,  and 
round  about  them  a few  grass-thatched  huts  indicating  poverty. 

At  the  immediate  base  of  the  pagoda  were  being  erected  a 
chx;le  of  extensive  buildings  with  splendid  porches,  guarded  by 
huge  figures  of  Nak,  a kind  of  demigod.  At  the  northern  en- 
trance was  a small  artificial  mountain,  with  a great  vaidety  of 
caverns  and  subterranean  recesses.  On  the  exterior  of  the 
mount  were  sundry  pools  of  water,  little  pagodas,  and  minia- 
ture temples.  On  the  west  side  was  a reclining  god,  fifty  feet  in 
length,  in  pi’ocess  of  formation,  under  the  plastic  hands  of  two 
Chinese  masons.  Near  by  were  fifteen  or  twenty  small  brick 
houses,  all  after  the  same  model,  designed  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  Buddhist  priests  ; and  on  either  side  of  the  canal  which 
terminates  near  the  pagoda  are  numerous  substantial  brick 
salas,  or  pavilions,  some  fifty  rods  apart,  built  for  the  shelter 
of  pilgi’ims  coming  to  womhip  Buddha. 

The  king  was  also  having  a palace  ei’ected  on  the  east  side  for 


APPENDIX. 


395 


his  own  convenience  and  pleasure  when  he  would  come  to  con- 
secrate all  those  new  works  to  the  Buddhist  religion,  and  to 
lead  the  devotions  of  his  great  family  at  that  rising  shrme. 
Among  other  buildings  of  the  palace  was  the  usual  accom- 
paniment everywhere  seen  at  the  royal  residences  in  city  or 
country — a large,  open  hall  for  theatrical  performances;  for 
such  plays  are  quite  in  harmony  with  the  modern  worship  of 
Buddha.  An  almost  incalculable  amount  of  treasure  had  been 
ah'eady  expended,  and  many  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars 
would  be  required  to  complete  the  plans  laid  out. 

After  viewing  all  this  waste  nearly  twenty  years  ago,  that 
good  and  wise  old  man.  Dr.  Bradley,  wrote:  “Would  that  the 
king  could  see  how  much  better  it  would  be  for  his  name  and 
his  people,  if  he  would  employ  his  great  wealth  for  the  complete 
exploration  and  survey  of  all  his  dominions,  that  tlieii’  vast 
hidden  treasures  might  be  brought  to  light,  their  rivere  accu- 
rately mapped,  their  towns,  cities,  and  provinces  all  clearly 
bounded,  with  railways  and  telegraphs  bringuig  them  into  close 
proximity  to  the  great  metropolis,  and  the  whole  into  lightning 
communication  with  all  the  western  kingdoms  and  nations.” 

In  1870  he  again  visited  Wat  Pra  Pratom,  and  had  a view  of 
“that  most  magnificent  monument  of  Buddhism  which  Siam 
contains.”  He  says : “ We  had  not  seen  it  since  1865,  when  the 
work  of  restoring  the  old  pagoda,  which  had  stood  there  for 
not  far  from  one  thousand  years,  had  been  going  on  for  ten 
years  or  more.  When  you  get  out  of  your  boat  and  ascend  the 
steps  nearest  the  pagoda,  then  — and  not  till  then  — will  you  be 
struck  with  wonder  at  the  vast  amount  of  work  and  treasure 
expended,  for  you  had  vmtil  then  seen  only  its  dome  and  its 
spira.  Your  sight  will  be  fixed  at  first  on  the  unique  building 
in  front  of  the  shrine,  which  is  about  750  feet  in  length,  15  feet 
wide,  and  30  feet  high  to  the  ridge  of  the  roof ; and  this  you  are 
told  forms  one  of  four  sides  of  a perfect  square,  with  the  same 
style  of  buildings  on  the  other  three  sides.  You  will  be  slngu- 


396 


APPENDIX. 


larly  impressed  witli  the  deep  red  color  of  tlie  eartlien  tiles  tliat 
cover  the  roof,  and  the  yellowish  red  of  all  the  brick  stuccoed 
walls.  At  each  corner  is  a more  lofty  structure  of  fine  pro- 
portions, givmg  grandeur  and  symmetry  to  the  w'hole  as  being 
the  external  boundaries  of  the  monument.  And  there  are, 
besides  these,  elevated  stinactures  over  as  many  gates  into  the 
enclosure  on  each  side,  giving  variety  and  magnificence  to  the 
whole  view.  One  of  these  beautiful  gateways  I noticed  was 
especially  designed  for  the  king,  at  times  when  there  are  theat- 
rical plays  on  the  wide  lawn  in  front.  These  long  buildings, 
fonning  the  four  sides  of  the  sacred  enclosure,  are  divided 
lengthwise  into  a narrow  hall,  with  verandas  on  each  side 
extending  their  entire  length,  broken  only  by  the  doors.  On 
entermg  one  of  these  doors  you  ascend  three  or  four  feet,  and 
passing  through  you  find  yourself  on  a neatly  paved  plateau, 
twenty  feet  or  more  in  width,  extending  all  round  the  pagoda. 
This  is  bounded  internally  by  a brick  stuccoed  wall,  much  more 
diversified  in  structure  than  mere  walls  usually  are.  You  next 
ascend  a flight  of  marble  steps,  and  passing  thi’ough  a tasteful 
porch,  stand  in  the  second  plateau,  stUl  better  paved  and  more 
richly  furnished  with  curiosities  of  Buddhistic  reminiscences, 
artificial  rocks,  mountains,  caves,  miniature  pagodas,  and 
temples.  This  space  is  bounded  by  an  unbroken  circle  of 
buildings.  The  width  of  the  plateau  is  about  twenty  feet, 
excepting  at  places  opposite  the  four  corners  of  the  outer  w’all, 
where  it  is  a good  deal  wider.  From  tliis  you  go  up  six  or 
eight  feet  by  stone  steps  to  the  third  story.  Hez-e,  if  we  re- 
member rightly,  you  will  stand  on  a marble  floor,  beautifully 
shaded  by  trees  and  shi'ubs  of  many  varieties,  and  I'ichly  fur- 
nished with  granite  circular  tables  and  benches,  fiower-pots, 
and  marble  couches.  From  a measurement  we  made  by  pacing 
the  entire  cu*cuit  of  this  fiooi’,  we  tliink  it  not  less  than  2,000 
feet  by  30  feet  in  width.  The  fom’th  story  is  reached  by  another 
set  of  steps,  only  three  or  four  feet  high,  into  another  circle  of 


APPENDIX. 


397 


buildings,  with  a narrow  hall.  This  hall  is  sun-lighted  exter- 
nally by  scores  of  oval  windows,  and  internally  by  arched 
avenues  of  white  mason-work.  The  floor  is  of  artificial  marble, 
and  extremely  well  done.  From  its  ceding  throughout  the 
entire  circuit  are  suspended,  about  ten  feet  apart,  chandeliers 
of  Siamese  manufacture.  Each  one  is  intended  to  hold  several 
tumblers  of  cocoa  or  peanut  od,  and  on  special  religious  occa- 
sions to  be  all  lighted  up. 

“This  circular  haU  is  divided  into  four  equal  parts  by  idol 
sanctuaries  or  temples,  which  are  quite  large  and  commanding, 
having  the  same  graduated  roofs  as  are  in  vogue  in  Bangkok. 
You  will  find  enshrined  in  each  several  gilded  images  of  Buddha 
from  the  size  of  a man  to  an  enormous  giant.  On  the  wall, 
between  the  oval  windows,  are  moral  lessons,  written  in  the 
ancient  Siamese  character,  occupying  each  a space  four  feet 
square.  The  letters  are  made  with  a kind  of  putty,  and  stand 
embossed  on  the  wall  hard  as  stone.  We  paced  this  hall,  and 
found  it  to  be  about  1,030  feet  circuit.  On  the  same  level  with 
the  hall  there  is  an  open  space  fifteen  feet  wide  all  roimd  the 
pagoda,  and  this  is  bounded  internally  by  another  circular 
structure,  having  somewhat  the  appearance  of  Siamese  city 
walls,  with  its  closely  studded  embrasures.  But  each  of  these 
is  so  constructed  as  to  form  a little  house  for  a lamp,  which  is 
shielded  from  the  wind  by  a large  pane  of  colored  glass  in  its 
arched  front,  and  at  the  back  is  a small  opening  in  which  the 
lamp  is  put.  There  are  two  hundred  and  thirty  of  these  minia- 
ture lighthouses,  and  they  stand  some  three  feet  apart,  and 
when  lighted  must  make  a fine  display. 

“In  the  rear  of  these  is  another  open  space,  which  may  be 
called  the  fiith  story  of  the  monument.  It  is  about  ten  feet 
above  the  one  next  below.  By  pacing  we  judged  it  to  be  900 
feet  in  circuit.  Hence,  the  pagoda  at  this  elevation,  if  our 
measurement  approximates  to  truth,  is  about  300  feet  in  diam- 
eter, its  height  30  feet  from  the  ground,  and  the  distance  from 


398 


APPENDIX. 


this  to  the  pinnacle  some  384  feet.  There  seems  to  be  no  reason 
to  doubt  that  the  whole  central  structure  below  and  above  this, 
from  bottom  to  top,  is  of  solid  mason-work — that  is,  without 
any  cavities.  What  a huge  pile  of  brick  and  mortar ! 

“Above  this  fifth  story  there  are  no  more  places  left  for 
promenading,  and  from  this  point  the  pagoda  takes  the  usual 
form  of  the  largest  dagabas  in  the  city  of  Bangkok.  It  is  belted 
with  seven  rounded  zones,  in  regular,  ascending  gradations, 
tmtU  the  upper  and  smaller  one  is  some  sixty  feet  from  the  fifth 
story.  Then  begins  the  even  face  of  the  pagoda,  extending 
upward  from  the  seventh  zone,  it  may  be,  100  feet.  Here  the 
pagoda  again  changes  form,  very  much  resembling  the  upper 
part  of  the  royal  pramanes  or  cremation  buildings,  and  is 
crowned  with  a metallic  framework,  having  many  arms,  and  a 
lance-shaped  spire.  On  its  arms  are  suspended  little  bells  which 
are  rung  by  the  breezes  of  heaven,  and  which,  the  people  say, 
are  of  the  most  precious  gold,  but  hung  too  far  heavenward 
ever  to  tempt  the  cupidity  of  mortals. 

“All  the  upper  parts  down  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  or  smooth, 
even  surface,  are  finished,  and  it  was  the  last  work  His  Grace 
the  late  President  of  the  Foreign  Department  had  accomplished 
under  his  direction.  The  dome  is  still  unfinished,  and,  with  its 
scaffolding  and  the  zigzag  footpath  going  up  to  its  top,  has  an 
unsightly  appearance. 

“Standing  on  the  scaffolding  near  the  top  of  the  dome  we 
saw  men  at  work  finishing  from  above  downward,  and  then 
removing  the  scaffolding  as  they  descend,  thus  cutting  off  all 
possibility  of  unlawful  access  to  the  gold  at  the  pinnacle.  The 
workmen  were  so  high  up  as  to  look  like  little  children.  We 
walked  up  the  footpath  until  our  head  began  to  swim  and  we 
dared  venture  no  further.  But  from  that  point  of  observation 
we  had  a grand  view  of  a vast  extent  of  level  country,  without 
the  least  highland,  except  in  the  direction  of  Petchaburee,  whose 
mountains  appeared  like  small  black  clouds  on  the  horizon. 


APPENDIX. 


399 


The  number  of  brick  and  bamboo  bouses  clustermg  about  its 
base  now  appeared  like  quite  a bttle  city. 

“The  monument  fronts  to  the  east,  and  the  palace  for  the 
king  stands  forty  or  fifty  rods  opposite  its  front.  The  bouses 
for  the  settled  prie.sts,  forty  or  fifty  in  numbei’,  and  for  many  of 
their  order  who  come  on  pilgrimages,  are  on  the  west  side. 

“Much  time  and  money  are  still  requu-ed  to  finish  all  these 
works  as  their  chief  patrons,  the  King  and  the  Foreign  Minister, 
had  contemplated,  and  now  since  they  have  been  summoned 
into  the  spirit  world  to  render  to  their  Maker  ^n  account  of  all 
their  domgs  here  on  earth,  it  may  be  many  years  before  the 
whole  is  finished.  Let  us  fervently  hoiie  that  all  .spirit  and 
heart  for  such  useless  and  wicked  expenditure  will  have  died 
away  ere  its  possible  com23letion,  and  tliat  it  will  therefore  be 
abandoned  to  the  sjieedier  ruin.  ” 


I 


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